WO1999042013A1

WO1999042013A1 - A method of designing and cutting-out the leather for shoes

Info

Publication number: WO1999042013A1
Application number: PCT/CN1999/000015
Authority: WO
Inventors: Guoxi Ma
Original assignee: Guoxi Ma
Priority date: 1998-02-20
Filing date: 1999-02-09
Publication date: 1999-08-26
Also published as: CN1188622A; CN1054500C; AU2407699A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of designing and cutting-out the leather for shoes. The paper pattern is firstly folded along its back central line and placed vertically, a perpendicular dotted line is drawn downwards from the upper endpoint of the back central line, the point where the dotted line is departed from the back central line is used as the starting point, and the lower endpoint of the back central line is used as the finishing point, the arc between the starting point and the finishing point is divided equally into sections, and a perpendicular positioning line which is perpendicular to the dotted line is drawn from the dividing point on the dotted line, those parts below the positioning line are rotated around the dividing point, until the next dividing point falls upon the dotted line, the overlapped parts produced during the process are cut away, all the arc sections are so processed until the finishing point falls upon the dotted line, the required design can thus be obtained by unfolding the paper pattern, finally the shoe leather can be cut out according to the obtained paper.

Description

Design and cutting method of leather upper

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing leather shoes.

Background technique

In the manufacturing process of leather shoes, the design and cutting of the leather upper is a key process. In principle, the process is to change the irregular shoe last into a flat paper pattern. The flat paper pattern is processed by regular changes to restore the flat leather material to the shoe last through production processing. Due to the irregular shape of the shoe last, the back midline is curved upwards into an arc, and the back midline has a seam-free style. Therefore, the curved midline of the back midline must be processed into a straight line in the middle by the paper grid processing method before it can be produced. Use, in the process of paper grid processing, how to master the mutual conversion process between curves and straight lines, and reduce the standard error to produce qualified leather shoes, this is the core of this process technology. At present, the design and cutting technology of leather uppers at home and abroad is to use the back center line alignment center as a fixed point, so that the fixed point position is cut perpendicular to the back center line, and moved downward to become a straight line, to achieve the purpose of flat processing, but the back center line is longer than the use The standard length is relatively unchanged from the original length of the midline of the back midline. This only takes into account the convenient combination of upper production. The result is that the back midline is too long. During the forming process with the sole of the shoe, the back midline leather The material is wrinkled and cannot disappear, making the product substandard. The processing method in foreign countries and Taiwan is to use high-temperature upper setting machine to process the wrinkles on the back midline during the processing of the upper to make the wrinkles disappear. However, the above design method is also limited to a certain extent. The longer the arc, the longer the back midline after the plane treatment is, so that the shaper cannot be shaped. Therefore, the height of a piece of leather in front of men's and women's boots is limited to less than 10cm. The reason is that according to the shape of a person's legs, wear For boots above 10cm, an arc appears on the same midline of the boot, making the setting machine unusable. In addition, the shoe cover of the cover shoe (called the bile in the south) cannot be shaped on the setting machine.

Summary of the Invention

The object of the present invention is to provide a method for designing and cutting uppers of leather uppers. The back midline of leather shoes produced by the method has no wrinkles, and fits comfortably. It is suitable for various forms of shoes and is not affected by arc length and loneliness. The limitation of the degree can achieve the desired effect without the setting of the setting machine. This technology has a wide application range.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions: The design of such a leather upper In the cutting method, paste the paper on the outside of the shoe last, cut off the excess line with a knife at the center line, draw the required style, and then remove the paper from the shoe last and paste it on the paper. After adjusting by conventional techniques, Make the data of each part of the paper reach the basic standard, and perform 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processing on the back midline part of the sheet, remove the paper sheet from the back midline part to be processed, and fold the back midline as the center line For the paper sheet at the midline of the back, place the paper sheet at the midline of the back vertically, and make the starting line of the upper end of the midline perpendicular to the horizontal plane, and then make a vertical dotted line downward from the upper end of the midline of the back, The separation point from the dorsal centerline is used as the processing starting point of the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotation processing. The arc length of the dorsal centerline between the processing start point and the processing end point is divided into several equal parts. The sub-points are sequentially rotated by 90 ° in segmented positioning. During each rotation movement, the above-mentioned points on the vertical dotted line are respectively made 90 toward the vertical dotted line. A vertical positioning line, and using the above points as the axis of rotation, the following portion of the vertical positioning line where the point is located is rotated toward the vertical positioning line, and the next bisector of that point is on the vertical dotted line So far, the overlapping area that appears during the rotation movement is the disappearing area, and the overlapping areas on both sides of the paper sheet are processed, so that the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating movement of each arc segment is sequentially performed until the final processing. The end point is moved to the vertical dotted line to complete all 90s. In the process of segmented positioning and rotating movement, after unrolling the paper sheet, a pattern of the processed midline portion is obtained, and the leather surface is cut according to the pattern. By using the 90 ° segmented positioning rotation movement processing method of the present invention, various forms of shoes can be designed and cut.

The 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processing method of the present invention can be used to design a cover for cutting a shoe. The processed midline portion is the cover of the cover shoe, the upper end of the back centerline is on the end edge of the cover of the cover shoe, and the processing end point of the 90 ° segmented positioning rotation movement processing is the arc of the cover midline The highest point of the toe.

The 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processing method of the present invention is used in combination with the counter-position processing, the toe vertical processing once, and the toe correction processing to cut the upper surface of the high boots. The treated midline portion is the upper surface of the high barrel boot, and the upper end point of the back midline is on the boot of the high barrel boot. The processing end point of the segmented positioning rotation movement processing is the center point of the arc of the center line of the back of the high bucket, and the above 90 is performed. After the segmented positioning and rotating movement processing, the following process is also performed. The center point of the arc of the back of the high-barreled boot is aligned and reversed, and the contact point between the alignment line of the high-barreled boot and the lower mouth line is processed. Is the axis, the arc of the midline of the back of the boot

2 The center point of the center is moved down by 9-l lnun along the vertical dotted line. The stretched processing area that appears during the downward movement is the stretched area, and the two sides of the paper are stretched according to the position and size of the stretched processing area. The vertical toe processing is performed once, and the moving point after the center point of the back midline arc is moved down is taken as an axis, so that the lower end point of the back midline, that is, the toe angle peak, is moved to the vertical dotted line at one time. During the movement, The overlapping area that appears is the disappearing area, and the overlapping areas on both sides of the paper are processed. Finally, the toe correction is performed. The lower end of the midline of the back, that is, the toe angle peak, is used as the axis, and the lower line is lined. Rotate towards the dorsal midline so that the two ends of the crescent area on the dorsal midline coincide on the lower mouth line, so that the deformation of the crescent area on the dorsal midline is exchanged on the lower mouth line, and the crescents on both sides of the dorsal midline are on the sheet Make up the area so that the dorsal midline becomes a straight line, and also treat the crescent area on the two lower mouth lines to make it a lower mouth line with a crescent area.

The embodiments are described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Overview of the drawings

Figure 1 is a paper trellis for cover shoes

Figure 2 is a diagram of the processing components removed from the cover shoe sheet

Figure 3 shows the vertical placement of the cover shoe processing components

Figure 4 is 90 of the cover shoe processing component. Segmented first segment processing diagram

Figure 5 shows 90 of the cover shoe processing component. Differentiated second and third segment processing diagrams

Figure 6 shows 90 of the cover shoe processing component. Differentiation of the fourth paragraph

Figure 7 shows 90 of the cover shoe processing component. Exploded view of segmented processing results

Figure 8 shows a cover shoe made by the method of the present invention

Figure 9 is a map of the high boots

Figure 10 is the paper grid diagram of the high boots

Figure 11 is a vertical placement diagram of the processing parts of the high boots

Figure 12 shows the 90 of the boot handling component. Segmented first segment processing diagram

Figure 13 is the 90 ° segmented second stage processing diagram of the high bucket boot processing part

Fig. 14 is an alignment reflection processing diagram of the processing part of the high boot

Figure 15 is a vertical one-time processing diagram of the toe of the processing part of the high boot

FIG. 16 is a toe correction processing diagram of the processing part of the high boot

Figure 17 is an expanded view of the processing results of the high-barrel boot processing unit

Figure 18 shows the combination of the leather surface and the rear piece after the high barrel boots are treated.

26 FIG. 19 is a high barrel boot made by the method of the present invention

Best practice

Example 1. The cap of the cap shoe handles a tailoring method.

Stick the paper with the glue on the outside of the shoe last, cut off the excess with the center line, and draw the required style. Then remove the paper and paste it on the hard paper as shown in Figure 1. Control the line from the shoe line to the front to be straight and not bend or deform. Roll out the middle line of the back and the lower line of the shoe by hand, and let it shrink naturally. Then add the lower line to the back to add a width of 12mm to 14mm according to the shape of the shoe. The inner corner line varies according to the radian. Add to make a grid of cover shoes 1. Then remove the paper 2 at the midline of the back to be processed, as shown in FIG. 2, where the upper end point J of the back midline is on the end edge of the cover shoe cover, and the lower end point E is the highest point of the midline arc at the toe portion point. Fold the paper sheet 2 at the center line of the back, and place the paper sheet 2 at the back center line vertically, and make the starting line of the upper end point J of the center line perpendicular to the horizontal plane, as shown in FIG. The upper end point J of the line is a vertical dashed line 00, and the separation point between the vertical dashed line 00 and the dorsal center line is 90. The processing starting point of the segmentation and rotation movement processing is point L, and the arc length of the midline from the processing starting point L to the processing end point E (ie, the lower end point) is divided into four equal parts, that is, LA1, A1A2, A2A3, A3E, which The more equal divisions, the higher the accuracy after processing, so it depends on the loneliness and length of the dorsal midline. As shown in FIG. 4, from the point L to the vertical dotted line 00, make a vertical positioning line LT, and then use the point L as the axis of rotation, and keep the positioning line LT stationary, so that the bisector A1 moves to the vertical dotted line 00, The overlapping area that appears during the rotation movement is Δ NLT and also the disappearing area, and the overlapping areas A NLT on both sides of the paper are processed, so that the 90 ° segmentation of the arc of the first unit is completed. Positioning rotation movement. Then go to 90 for the second element arc. As shown in FIG. 5, the segmented positioning rotates from the bisector A1 to the vertical dotted line 00 as the vertical positioning line AIM, and then uses the A1 point as the axis of rotation, and keeps the positioning line AIM stationary. Waiting The sub-point A2 is moved to the vertical dotted line 00, and the overlapping areas ΔA1MZ on both sides of the paper sheet are also processed, that is, 90 of the isolated section of the second unit is completed. Segmented positioning rotation. As shown in Figures 5 and 6, the third and fourth element arcs are also 90% of the first element arc. The segmentation positioning and rotation process are processed, and finally the lower end point E is moved to the vertical dotted line 00 and up. In this way, all the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processes are completed. After unrolling the paper, the processed posterior midline portion pattern is shown in Figure 7, and the leather surface is cut according to the pattern. Other parts of the shoe can be designed, cut,

26 make. Finally, the manufacturing of the cover shoe is completed, as shown in FIG. 8. The midline part 4 of the back of the cover shoe 3 in FIG. 8 is cut by using the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processing method.

Example 2. Cutting method of the upper surface of the high boots.

Apply the paper glue to the outside of the shoe last, as shown in Figure 9. Before removing the paper from the shoe last, put a heel of standard height under the shoe last, align the vertical line, draw the position of the lower part of the boot, then remove the paper and stick it on the hard paper 5. As shown in FIG. 10, the width and height of the bucket position are determined along with the vertical line PP to rise, and a high bucket shoe paper grid 6 is made. Then remove the paper sheet 7 at the midline of the back to be processed, as shown in FIG. 11, where the upper end W of the back midline is on the boot of the high boots, and the lower end F is the arc of the back midline at the toe corner peak. Fold the midline of the dorsal midline as the midline, then place the dorsal midline paper vertically, and make the starting line of the upper end point W of the midline perpendicular to the horizontal plane, as shown in FIG. The upper end point W is a vertical dotted line 00 downward, and the separation point of the vertical dotted line 00 from the dorsal center line is 90 °. The processing starting point of the segmented positioning and rotating movement processing is the point I, and the processing end point of the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating movement processing is the center point of the arc of the back of the high barrel boots, that is, the arc from the point I to the midline of the back at the toe The center point A between the highest points, and then the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotational movement processing of the two unit arcs between IA is performed as described above, as shown in Figures 12 and 13, where II is the equivalence between IA The point is divided, and as a result, the point A is moved to the vertical dotted line 00 ,. During the flat processing of the patch and paper, the angle of about 5mm will disappear, and there is a problem of lateral pull during the forming process of the shoe. The rebound factor of the leather is about 5mm. The two factors add up 10mm, to be positioned on the dorsal midline. Therefore, alignment reflection processing is required at point A. As shown in FIG. 14, the contact point B between the alignment line and the lower mouth line of the high boots is taken as the axis, and the point A is moved along the vertical dotted line 00 and downward by 10 mm. At point C, the pull-out processing area that appears during the downward movement, that is, ΔABC, is the stretch area, and the two sides of the paper sheet are stretched according to the position and size of the pull-out processing area. Then, the toe is vertically processed once. As shown in FIG. 15, with the point C as the axis, the lower end point of the midline of the back is moved F-times to the vertical dotted line 00 ′. The overlap area Δ YHQ that appears during the movement This is the disappearance area, and the overlapping areas on both sides of the paper sheet are disposed of. Finally, the toe correction process is performed. As shown in FIG. 16, with the lower end point F of the dorsal midline as the axis, the lower mouth line is rotated toward the dorsal midline so that the two ends of the crescent region D1 on the dorsal midline coincide with the lower mouth. Line, so that the crescent area D1 on the center of the back is deformed and exchanged on the lower mouth line to become D2, and the crescent area D1 on both sides of the back center line is supplemented on a piece of paper to make the back center line a straight line.

Replacement page (Article 26) The crescent area D2 on the two lower mouth lines is also processed to make it a lower mouth line with a crescent area D2. In this way, all the processing processes are completed. After unrolling the paper sheet, a pattern of the processed midline portion is obtained, as shown in FIG. 17, and the leather surface is cut according to the pattern. When the shoe upper is assembled, the alignment line must be pulled apart to form a straight line (that is, the alignment line is restored to the original shape before processing). In the process of opening and fitting, it is achieved by making full use of the elastic tension of the leather. The pulling of the leather causes the "coincidence zone" that disappeared during the processing of the paper grid to reappear on the registration line. This completes the entire process of "processing" and "recovering". As shown in FIG. 18, when the cut surface 8 of the back midline part is combined with the rear panel 9 in the tower position, it can be laid along the combined laying line 10 and pulled apart and attached in the direction of the double-headed arrow 11 to complete. Making of high boots. Other parts of the shoe can be designed, cut, and made according to conventional methods. Finally, the high barrel boots are made. As shown in FIG. 19, the leather surface 8 at the midline portion of the back of the high boot 15 in FIG. 19 is cut using the processing method of the present invention.

Industrial applicability

In summary, the technology of the present invention is mainly to control the standard use length of the dorsal midline, which is 90. The segmented positioning and rotating movement method controls the length between the dorsal center line and the alignment line to be constant, while the vertical length of the registration line and the back center line changes with the processing process and shortens, and the straight line turns into a curve. In order to improve the design accuracy, at the same time, the alignment reflection processing is used. The angle of about 5mm that disappears during the flat treatment of the patch and the paper and the lateral pull-up during the shoe forming process. The leather rebound coefficient is about 5mm (together) 10mm) positioning appeared on the back midline, and the two methods were used together to complete the processing of the paper at the back midline. In the process of assembling the uppers, as long as the alignment arcs are pulled apart to form a straight line combination, the back midline arc naturally appears, close to the shape of the shoe last, so that the bottom of the shoe is formed conveniently and labor-saving, and there is no wrinkle on the back midline of the shoe. The technical processing method of the present invention is technically not limited by the radian and the arc length, so that the product achieves the desired effect. The technical operation of the present invention is fast and convenient, has high accuracy, has a wide application range, and is suitable for various leather shoes.

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Replacement page (Article 26)

Claims

Rights request

1. A method for designing and cutting the upper of leather. Paste the paper on the outside of the shoe last, cut off the excess with a knife at the center line, draw the required style, and then remove the paper from the shoe last and paste it on the paper. On-chip, after adjustment by conventional techniques, so that the data of all parts of the paper reaches the basic standard, it is characterized in that the back centerline of the paper sheet is subjected to 90 ° segmented positioning and rotation processing, and the back centerline to be processed is processed. Take off the paper at the part, fold the paper at the back midline as the centerline, place the paper at the back midline vertically, and make the starting line of the upper end of the back centerline perpendicular to the horizontal plane. The upper end point is a vertical dotted line downward, and the separation point between the vertical dotted line and the back center line is used as the processing starting point of the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating processing. The arc length of the back center line between the processing start point and the processing end point is divided into several equal parts. From the starting point of the processing and the bisectors after the movement, respectively, a 90 ° segmented positioning rotation movement is performed in turn. Each rotation movement process is performed by being in the vertical virtual space. To each of the points on the vertical dashed line by 90. A vertical positioning line, and using the above points as the axis of rotation, the following portion of the vertical positioning line where the point is located is rotated toward the vertical positioning line, and the next bisector of that point is on the vertical dotted line So far, the overlapping area that appears during the rotation movement is the disappearing area, and the overlapping areas on both sides of the paper sheet are processed, so that the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotating movement of each arc segment is sequentially performed until the final processing. The end point is moved to the vertical dotted line to complete all 90s. In the process of segmented positioning and rotating movement, after unrolling the paper sheet, a pattern of the processed midline portion is obtained, and the leather surface is cut according to the pattern.

2. The method of designing and cutting a leather upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: the processed midline portion is a cover of a cover shoe, and the upper end of the back centerline is on the end edge of the cover of the cover shoe, The end point of the 90 ° segmented positioning and rotation processing is the highest point of the midline arc of the cover back at the toe.

3. The method of designing and cutting a leather upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: the processed midline portion is the upper surface of a high barrel boot, and the upper end of the back centerline is on the boot of the high barrel boot. , Carried out by 90. The processing end point of the segmentation positioning rotation movement processing is the center point of the midline arc of the back of the high bucket boot, and the above 90 is performed. After the segmented positioning and rotating movement processing, the following process is also performed. The center point of the arc of the back of the high-barreled boot is aligned and reversed, and the contact point between the alignment line of the high-barreled boot and the lower mouth line is processed. Is the axis, the arc of the midline of the back of the boot

Replacement page (Article 26) Move the center point down 9-l lmm along the vertical dotted line. The pull-out processing area that appears during the downward movement is the stretch area, and the sides of the paper are stretched according to the position and size of the pull-out processing area, and then the shoes The head is vertically processed once, and the moving point after the center point of the above-mentioned midline arc moves downward is taken as the axis, so that the lower end of the midline, that is, the toe angle peak, is moved to the vertical dotted line at one time. During the movement process, the The overlapping area is the disappearing area, and the overlapping areas on both sides of the paper are processed. Finally, the toe correction is performed, and the lower end of the midline, that is, the toe angle peak, is used as the axis, and the lower mouth line is toward the back midline. Rotate upward so that the two ends of the crescent area on the dorsal midline coincide on the lower mouth line, so that the deformation of the crescent area on the dorsal midline is exchanged on the lower mouth line, and the crescent areas on both sides of the dorsal midline are made up on the sheet Make the dorsal midline a straight line, and also treat the crescent area on the two lower mouth lines to make it a lower mouth line with a crescent area.

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