WO1999009941A1 - Systemes de coloration capillaire - Google Patents

Systemes de coloration capillaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999009941A1
WO1999009941A1 PCT/US1997/015129 US9715129W WO9909941A1 WO 1999009941 A1 WO1999009941 A1 WO 1999009941A1 US 9715129 W US9715129 W US 9715129W WO 9909941 A1 WO9909941 A1 WO 9909941A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
coloring
color
target color
compendium
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1997/015129
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Heinz-Jurgen Bieler
Original Assignee
Schwarzkopf, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Schwarzkopf, Inc. filed Critical Schwarzkopf, Inc.
Priority to AU41660/97A priority Critical patent/AU4166097A/en
Priority to PCT/US1997/015129 priority patent/WO1999009941A1/fr
Publication of WO1999009941A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999009941A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the technical field of the invention relates to cosmetology and includes hair coloring systems.
  • the coloring of hair has become a worldwide industry attempting to satisfy not only the need of graying people to preserve a youthful appearance to their surroundings, as well as to themselves, but also the need of an ever growing number of younger people who feel that mother nature has somehow missed the shade that would best express their desired personality, and of vigorous females intent on venturing into the world with a new look.
  • hair coloring products have multiplied in brands, and have virtually exploded in terms of numbers of different shades particularly within leading brands.
  • the hair color for each shade comes with its own instructions, producing an ever increasing plethora of widely different background materials which the cosmetologist has to read and digest in an effort to treat the clientele most effectively and safely.
  • the invention resides in a method of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, and, more specifically, resides in the improvement comprising, in combination, generating samples of natural hair colors, assembling the samples of natural hair colors as natural hair color samples on a principal chart, generating samples of desirable hair colors as target color samples in the coloring of hair, assembling the target color samples on secondary charts, providing coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors within corresponding development time ranges in the coloring of hair, comprising a compendium of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections representing target colors, indexing each chapter in terms of corresponding natural hair color, and indexing each section in terms of a corresponding target color, listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.
  • the invention resides also in a system of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, comprising a compendium of chapters individually indexed in terms cf natural hair colors and divided into sections individually r.ndexed in terms of desirable hair colors as target colors in the coloring of hair, and listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of a principal chart for the practice of an embodiment of the invention
  • Figs . 2 and 3 are plan views of secondary charts for the practice of an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a part of a section of a chapter of a compendium according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, with an example of the numerical and textual content of the blocks and symbols shown in Fig. 4 being set forth below in Table V
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of a principal chart for the practice of an embodiment of the invention
  • Figs . 2 and 3 are plan views of secondary charts for the practice of an embodiment of the invention
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a part of a section of a chapter of a compendium according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, with an example of the numerical and textual content of the blocks and symbols shown in Fig. 4 being set forth below in Table V
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of a principal chart for the practice of an embodiment
  • FIG. 5 is a plan view of another part of another section of another chapter of the compendium according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, with an example of the numerical and textual content of the blocks and symbols shown in Fig. 4 being set forth below in Table VI; and Fig. 6 is a plan view of a graphic instruction for the practice of aspects of the subject invention.
  • FIG. 1 relates to the production or other generation of samples of natural hair colors, such as in different first swatches 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 of human or artificial hair.
  • natural hair colors may, for instance, be classified as follows, with the suffix "-0" after each numeral 1, 3, 4, ... 10 indicating "natural color” :
  • level numbers or equivalents thereof may be viewed as natural hair color indicia characteristic of the different natural hair colors considered.
  • such a characteristic natural hair color indicium is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the principal chart 12 having that natural hair color sample, and the natural hair color in each chapter is indexed in the compendium 36 of the subject invention in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color.
  • the samples of natural hair colors are assembled as natural hair color samples 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 (meaning samples of natural hair color numbers 1-0, 3-0, 4-0, 5-0, 6-0, 7-0, 8-0, 9-0 and 10-0) on the principal chart 12, with the proposition "on” being used broadly in this context.
  • These natural hair colors may be identified and listed on the principal chart 12 in blocks 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30, using, for example, the corresponding names listed at numbers 1-0, 3-0, 4-0, 5-0, 6-0, 7-0, 8-0, 9-0 and 10-0 in Table I which correlates the listed natural hair colors to the reference numerals and symbols in blocks of that description in Fig. 1 according to one example in the practice of the invention.
  • a heading, such as "NATURAL SERIES -0", may be provided on the principal chart 12, in a block 31 or otherwise.
  • Figs. 2 and 3 relate to the production or other generation of samples of desirable hair colors as target colors for the coloring procedure. Some such target colors are listed below in Table III. There now are dozens of available color shadings. The leading brand has some one hundred different shades of coloring agents, and the number of feasible hair coloring shadings will move into the three-digit range, as the compendium herein disclosed permits more and more cosmetologists to handle such hair color varieties correctly, professionally and consistently.
  • the subject invention may be practiced with conventional hair color products, and the practice of the subject invention is not limited to any particular nomenclature or to any particular brand of hair coloring products, although oxidation type of hair color products are preferred in the practice of the subject invention.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention is attuned to a nomenclature wherein a first numeral designates the desired color level which may be in similarity to first digits of the levels contained above in Table I.
  • a second numeral may designate the base, such as from natural to violet in the following scale: Table II
  • target color indicia are listed in the secondary charts.
  • a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample, and the target color in each section is indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color.
  • a secondary chart heading such as "AUBURN SERIES” , may for instance be listed in a block 33 of the secondary chart 34 on which shadings of that series are listed and to which swatches 41 to 46 of target color samples are attached.
  • Corresponding characteristic indicia such a.s "-67, - 68, -69" may be listed within a block 35. Similar information, such as "COPPER GOLD SERIES” and "-75, -78" may be listed on another other secondary chart 37, such as in two blocks 38 and 39 shown in Fig. 3.
  • corresponding listings of the color shadings of swatches 41 to 48 and legends in blocks 51 to 58 for the secondary charts 34 and 37 are correlated in Table III with reference numerals of Figs . 2 and 3. All charts and sheets shown in Figs. 1 to 5 of the drawings may be provided with marginal punch holes, such as 61, 62 and 63, for accommodation thereof in ring binders.
  • Similar punch holes may be provided in the secondary charts 34 and 37.
  • Conventional techniques may be employed for manufacturing coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors within corresponding development time ranges in the coloring of hair.
  • the subject invention includes comprising a compendium of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections representing target colors.
  • Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate representative parts 65 and 66 of such a compendium 3 ⁇ which in practice may, however, comprise some fifty, one hundred or more sheets to list the many different shades of hair colors now available.
  • Each chapter is indexed in terms of corresponding natural hair color. This is indicated in Figs. 4 and 5 by blocks 61 and 63 in which the name of the particular natural hair color and some characteristic indicium thereof may be listed, such as indicated in Table I, for instance.
  • each chapter listing the particular natural hair color of that chapter and its characteristic indicium.
  • Such a chapter title page may be provided with an index tab (not shown) that signals the particular natural hair color or its characteristic indicium to the user or cosmetologist.
  • such particular natural hair color of the same chapter and its characteristic indicium are listed on all parts or sections of that same chapter, such as in the blocks 61 or 63.
  • each section is indexed in terms of a corresponding target color, such as in blocks 62 and 64.
  • an index tab 68 or 69 may be provided for listing or representing a target color indicium for the particular section, all for increased user convenience.
  • the subject invention includes listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time range as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.
  • graphic symbols of cups or other mixing receptacles such as 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89 and 90 may be used for t:. ⁇ e purpose of indicating relative coloring agent concentration, such as in terms of grams of the particular coloring agent.
  • graphic symbols of bottles or tubes 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105 in which coloring agents are sold may be used for the purpose of indicating the particular coloring agent or agents.
  • Developers may be represented by different graphic symbols, such as representations 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113 and 114 of typical developer bottles.
  • Various explanatory texts may be provided in additional blocks.
  • the kind of treatment may be indicated in a block 116, such as "virgin, mid-shaft & ends application" for the kind of regional coloring indicated at 1 in Fig. 6 and more full described below.
  • block 116 Whilst block 116 thus may contain a basic instruction, a block 117 may include a subsidiary instruction, such as "less than 30% gray” in order to indicate that the process symbolized by items 71, 94, 72, 107, for instance, is for the coloring of hair that is less than thirty percent gray.
  • a block 119 may include another subsidiary instruction, such as "more than 30% gray” in order to indicate that the process symbolized by items 83, 101, 84, 102, 85, 112 is for the coloring of hair that is more than thirty percent gray.
  • Block 120 may include an indication of required development time, or time for which the particular coloring agent and developer mixture is left on the hair prior to rinsing or other subsequent step. In this respect, block 120 may include a time range, such as "10-15 minutes", for instance.
  • Block 120 may include a further instruction, such as "then apply roots & retouch formula", whereby a representative text in block 120 would read “10-15 minutes, then apply roots & retouch formula” .
  • the next kind of treatment, or an alternative treatment may be indicated in block 121 which, in that respect, is a sequel to or counterpart of block 116.
  • block 121 may bear a legend, such as "roots & retouch application” .
  • Blocks 122 and 123 may bear the same legends as blocks 117 and 119, respectively, described above.
  • Block 124 may be similar to block 120 in content, except that it typically would contain only an indication of development time, such as "30-45 minutes", for instance. Fig.
  • the block 61 in Fig. 4 may include the legend "NATURAL LEVEL 3", indicating that the sheet €5 is part of the chapter 3 that covers various colored target ..evels for naturally dark brown hair.
  • Block 5 may include the legend "NATURAL LEVEL 6 " , indicating that the sheet 66 is part of the chapter 6 that covers various colored target levels for naturally dark blonde hair, in the same compendium 36.
  • Block 62 in Fig. 4 may include the legend "TARGET COLOR 4- 6_8" which indicates that the particular section 4 on sheet 65 is for people who want their dark brown hair (block 61 supra : “NATURAL LEVEL 3 " ) colored as medium auburn brown, such as apparent from Table III.
  • the particular section 4 on sheet 65 is indexed in terms of the exemplary target color indicium 4-68 that is characteristic of the medium auburn brown target color. Since Patent Cooperation Treaty practice does not permit legends in international drawings, it may be best to set forth the contents of Figs.
  • the contents of the tube- shaped symbols 94, 95, 96 ... 104 and 105 are coloring agents that may be of a commercially available type designated by the above mentioned target color numbering system.
  • the cup-shaped symbols 71, 72 ... 89 and 90 are designed to bear indications of contents, such as in grams, of the coloring agent associated therewith by a slant "/" meaning, for instance, "of".
  • the indication "60g” in cup 71 amounts to an instruction to put 60 grams of coloring agent 4-68 from tube 94 into the mixing cup 71.
  • cup symbol 72 followed by a slant "/" and thereupon by a developer bottle symbol 107.
  • the indication "60g" in cup 72 amounts to an instruction to put 60 grams of developer 107 into the mixing cup 72.
  • the plus sign "+" midway between such symbols amounts to the instruction to mix the contents of cup 71 with the contents of cup 72 as the target color agent that is thereupon applied to hair to be colored, such as more fully disclosed below.
  • one and the same mixing cup may be used throughout the practice of various embodiments of the invention.
  • the numerical or concentration instructions given in cups 71 and 72 may be carried out in one and the same mixing cup for both the coloring agent listed at 94 and the developer listed at 107.
  • a tare type of scale is used for that purpose.
  • a mixing cup may be placed on an electronic scale that indicates not only weight but, upon depression of a tare button, indicates also addition of further net weight.
  • Such scales are conventionally available.
  • a measuring cup may be placed on such electronic scale as cup 71, and the coloring agent listed at 94 may be poured or may be squeezed from a tube into such cup until the weight listed in that cup symbol 71 has been reached. At that time, the scale may be nulled so as to indicate the accretion of further weight.
  • the developer listed in the symbol 107 may thereupon be poured into that mixing cup, until the scale indicates the weight listed in the cup symbol 72, whereupon the contents of that mixing cup may be mixed and applied to hair 10 for development on that hair for the time listed in block 120, until the desired target color has been reached.
  • the developer itself may be a hydrogen peroxide type of developer. Developers are supplied in different commercial strengths, such as set forth in the following Table:
  • Block 121 Less than 30% gray s71: 60g of s94: 4-68 + s72 : 60g of sl07 : 9% Block 119: More than 30% gray S73: 30g of s95 : 4-68+S74: 30g of s96: 4-4+S75: 60g of sl08: 9% Block 120: 10-15 minutes, then apply to roots & retouch formula Block 121: roots & retouch application Block 122: Less than 30% gray S76: 30g of s97 : 4-68 + s77 : 30g of sl09 : 6% Block 123: More than 30% gray s78:15g of s98:4-68 + s79:15g of s99:4-4 + s80:30g of sllO: 6% Block 124: 30-
  • section 7 of the dark blonde chapter of the compendium 36 may on sheet 66 be indexed on block 64 in terms of the target color indicium 7-67 that as mentioned above is characteristic of the medium auburn blonde target color.
  • the user of the compendium will find sheet 66 of section 7 of the dark blonde chapter (block 63: "NATURAL LEVEL 6") for the instructions required to color a dark blonde person's hair in a medium auburn blonde shading.
  • the block 64 in Fig. 5 may include the legend "TARGET COLOR 7-67".
  • both types of indicia so far disclosed are listed together throughout the compendium according to the preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • a characteristic natural hair color indicium such as 3 for dark brown, or 6 for dark blonde, for instance, is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the. kind of principal chart such as shown in Fig. 1, and preferably is listed also in corresponding parts of the compendium, such as mentioned herein above and below with respect to Figs. 4 and 5.
  • a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample, and preferably in corresponding parts of the compendium, with the target color in each section being indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color, and the natural hair color in each chapter being indexed in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color.
  • the instructions of part 66 of section 7 of chapter 6of compendium 36 may be as follows:
  • Block 63 NATURAL LEVEL 6
  • Block 64 TARGET COLOR 7-67 Block 125: Virgin, mid-shaft & ends application
  • Block 126 Less than 30% gray s81: 60g of slOO: 7-67 + s82: 60g of sill: 6%
  • Block 127 More than 30% gray s83: 30g of sl01:7-67 +s84:30g of sl02:7-4 +s85: 60g of sll2 : 6%
  • Block 128 10-15 minutes, then apply to roots & retouch formula
  • Block 129 roots & retouch application
  • Block 130 Less than 30% gray S86: 30g of S103 : 7-67 + s87 : 30g of Sll3 : 3%
  • the 0-00 agent herein set forth is a bleaching agent without color pigment, sometimes referred to as "blonding cream” .
  • the following Table adds a few examples for the coloring of significantly gray hair.
  • coloring of hair may include the steps of determining with the aid of at least one of the principal and/or secondary charts 12, 34, 37, etc., the natural hair color of the hair to be colored, determining with the aid of such secondary charts the target color for the coloring of hair 10, finding in the compendium 36 the chapter pertaining to the natural hair color of the hair to be colored and in that chapter the section and part pertaining to the desired target color for the coloring of that hair, taking instructions from such found section and part for preparing coloring agent and developer ingredients in such admixture as required for that target color, applying the admixture to the hair, taking instructions from such found section and part for a development time of such admixture on that hair, and completing the coloring of hair pursuant to such instructions.
  • compendia of the type listed above in Tables V to VIII may be employed in performing (a) a first coloring operation including lightening first parts of hair 10, such as ends 136 and mid-shafts 137, in that first coloring operation indicated in Fig. 6 by the numeral "1", with the aid of charts 12, 34 or 37 and compendium 36, and coloring second parts of the hair, such as root sections 138, and darkening the lightened first parts of the hair 136 and 137 in a second coloring operation indicated in Fig. 6 by the numeral "2", in the same sitting with the aid of charts 12, 34 or 37 and compendium 36.
  • Such first coloring operation “1" may include coloring the first parts of the hair, such as 136 and 137, with the aid of compendium 36.
  • the chosen coloring agent may be activated with a first developer in a first concentration with the aid of a compendium 36 for a lightening of hair, and first parts of hair 136 and/or 137 may be colored in that first coloring operation "1" with such coloring agent activated with such first developer in that first concentration and for a development time as indicated in that compendium for causing lightening of such first parts of hair.
  • Such first and second concentrations may include different strengths of one or more developers as indicated in the compendium.
  • the first developer in such cases will have a higher concentration than the second developer, as indicated in the compendium.
  • the first developer as indicated in the compendium has surplus oxygen acting on hair after the first developer has activated the coloring agent thereon.
  • Appropriate graphic instructions in this respect may be provided on an additional chart 135.
  • the subject invention also resides in systems of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, comprising a compendium 36 of chapters individually indexed in terms of natural hair colors and divided into sections individually indexed in terms of desirable hair colors as target colors in the coloring of hair, such as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5 and Tables V through VIII, listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.
  • Compendia pursuant to the invention may be realized in all kinds of different media, including books with or without loose leaves for addition or expansion, ROLODEX ® and similar physical or electronic card catalogue systems, CD Rom or other compact disk or EDP systems, for example.

Abstract

Dans le cadre de cette technique de coloration capillaire, on constitue des échantillons de couleurs naturelles de cheveux et on les dispose sur une tableau principal (12), puis l'on constitue des échantillons de couleurs souhaitables en tant qu'échantillons de couleurs cibles que l'on dispose sur des tableaux secondaires (34, 37) et l'on prépare les agents de coloration ainsi que les révélateurs indispensables à la réalisation des couleurs cibles. On réalise également un recueil (36) de chapitres représentant les couleurs naturelles de cheveux divisés en sections (65, 66) représentant les couleurs cibles, on procède à l'indexage de chaque chapitre en fonction de la couleur naturelle de cheveux correspondante ainsi qu'à celui de chaque section en fonction de la couleur cible correspondante. On procède enfin au listage de tous les agents de coloration et de tous les révélateurs dans chaque section (65, 66, tableaux V-VIII) en fonction des quantités, de la concentration et du temps de pause nécessaires pour réaliser, lors d'une coloration, la couleur cible répertoriée dans cette section.
PCT/US1997/015129 1997-08-27 1997-08-27 Systemes de coloration capillaire WO1999009941A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU41660/97A AU4166097A (en) 1997-08-27 1997-08-27 Hair coloring systems
PCT/US1997/015129 WO1999009941A1 (fr) 1997-08-27 1997-08-27 Systemes de coloration capillaire

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/US1997/015129 WO1999009941A1 (fr) 1997-08-27 1997-08-27 Systemes de coloration capillaire

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WO1999009941A1 true WO1999009941A1 (fr) 1999-03-04

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001091602A3 (fr) * 2000-06-02 2002-09-12 River Tone Ltd Procede de traitement de coloration des cheveux

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4634146A (en) * 1984-11-28 1987-01-06 Crystal Technologies Corporation Instruction manual and method of using instruction manual
US4992050A (en) * 1989-06-07 1991-02-12 Edwards Diane M Consumer color reference kit
US5013244A (en) * 1989-11-15 1991-05-07 Davidson Jeffrey L Colorimetric scale for correlating a shade two blended colors with the sun protection factor of a sun screening agent
US5316481A (en) * 1993-02-11 1994-05-31 Clairol, Inc. System for displaying and selecting hair dye shades
US5609484A (en) * 1994-12-21 1997-03-11 Hawiuk; Andrea S. Apparatus for illustrating and determining quantity of hair pigment concentrate to achieve desired hair colour
US5643341A (en) * 1994-03-28 1997-07-01 Artec Systems Group, Inc. System and method for on-site formulation of personalized color-maintaining shampoo products for individual users

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4634146A (en) * 1984-11-28 1987-01-06 Crystal Technologies Corporation Instruction manual and method of using instruction manual
US4992050A (en) * 1989-06-07 1991-02-12 Edwards Diane M Consumer color reference kit
US5013244A (en) * 1989-11-15 1991-05-07 Davidson Jeffrey L Colorimetric scale for correlating a shade two blended colors with the sun protection factor of a sun screening agent
US5316481A (en) * 1993-02-11 1994-05-31 Clairol, Inc. System for displaying and selecting hair dye shades
US5643341A (en) * 1994-03-28 1997-07-01 Artec Systems Group, Inc. System and method for on-site formulation of personalized color-maintaining shampoo products for individual users
US5609484A (en) * 1994-12-21 1997-03-11 Hawiuk; Andrea S. Apparatus for illustrating and determining quantity of hair pigment concentrate to achieve desired hair colour

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
ZVIAK, The Science of Hair Care, 1986, Chapter 8, pages 263, 276-278. *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001091602A3 (fr) * 2000-06-02 2002-09-12 River Tone Ltd Procede de traitement de coloration des cheveux

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