WO1997047794A1 - Flan de maillot, maillot et procede de fabrication - Google Patents
Flan de maillot, maillot et procede de fabrication Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO1997047794A1 WO1997047794A1 PCT/US1996/004770 US9604770W WO9747794A1 WO 1997047794 A1 WO1997047794 A1 WO 1997047794A1 US 9604770 W US9604770 W US 9604770W WO 9747794 A1 WO9747794 A1 WO 9747794A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- knit
- courses
- shirt
- knitting
- series
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B9/00—Undergarments
- A41B9/06—Undershirts; Chemises
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/22—Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/03—Shape features
- D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/0331—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with one or more convex or concave portions of limited extension, e.g. domes or pouches
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a shirt, the blank for making the shirt and to the methods for making the shirt and the blank. More particularly, this invention relates to the production of a shirt blank on a circular knitting machine, and the production of a shirt from the blank having seams only at the shoulders.
- Brassieres having fabric areas to define breast cups have been produced by full fashioned and reciprocating knitting machines, but blank and brassiere production tends to be slow and inefficient unless circular knitting is used.
- One circular knitting process is disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,531,525 to Richards, wherein a brassiere blank is made on a circular knitting machine. The process includes producing a cylindrical tubular blank having a torso portion with a pair of breast cups, straps knit integrally with the torso portion, and turned welt portions at each end of the cylindrical blank.
- the tubular blank is slit on one side and laid flat for cutting neck and arm openings and seaming at each side to form the brassiere.
- Blanks for the production of knitted shirts are conventionally knit in flat or tubular form.
- the blanks are then cut to form arm openings and a neck opening, seamed along the side if necessary, and the bottom of the shirt is hemmed.
- a separately manufactured neckband is then sewn to a neck opening of the T-shirt, usually with a double row of stitching, and the arm openings are then finished, usually either by hemming or attaching banding, to thereby form a finished shirt. Because all of these seaming processes require the input of labor, each seaming step increases the manufacturing costs of the shirt.
- a need exists for a method of making T-shirts which requires a minimal amount of seaming to provide an efficiently and rapidly producible garment, and blanks and shirts requiring only a minimal number of seams.
- It an object of this invention to provide a circular knit, tubular blank from which a shirt may be made with only a minimal number of seams .
- a further object of this invention is to provide a circularly knit blank for making a shirt having integrally knit breast cups and only a minimal number of seams.
- An additional object of this invention is to provide a blank for making a shirt having an integrally knit neckband.
- a further object of this invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a blank and a shirt therefrom, the shirt having integrally knit breast cups and only a minimal number of seams.
- Yet another object of this invention is to provide a method of manufacturing a blank and a shirt therefrom to form a shirt having an integrally knit neckband and only a minimal number of seams.
- An even further object of this invention is to provide a shirt from a single piece of circular knit fabric which is sewn only at the shoulders and (optionally) at the arm openings, and which may include an integrally knit neckband and/or breast cups.
- a method of manufacturing a circular knit blank which includes knitting a series of courses defining a cylindrical tubular torso encircling portion in the form of a turned welt.
- a middle torso portion for covering the areas about the waist of a wearer's body is then knit to the torso encircling portion as a tubular fabric portion.
- the middle torso portion includes a series of puckers formed immediately above the torso encircling portion.
- An upper torso portion comprising a series of courses defining a tubular fabric portion is then knit to the middle torso portion.
- This upper torso portion in a preferred embodiment of the invention, includes a pair of breast cups integrally knit into the front thereof, the cups being defined by two areas in which the fabric is in simple knit courses with these areas being separated one from another.
- the breast cups are separated one from the other by a central area of gathered panels in which succeeding courses vary between simple knit and welt knit courses.
- the rear torso portion desirably maintains a simple knit construction throughout the middle and upper torso portions.
- a shoulder portion is then knit in tubular form to the upper torso portion.
- the shoulder portion includes elongated areas in which the courses are simple knit, with the areas being divided by elongated panel areas in which successive courses are also simple knit.
- the circular knit tubular blank is completed by knitting several courses forming a non- raveling edge.
- the non-raveling edge includes a cylindrical tubular fabric portion in the form of a turned welt which forms a neck encircling portion. In this way, a neckband can be integrally formed with the shirt blank rather than produced individually and attached in a separate operation.
- the shirt of the present invention is made from the circular knit tubular blank by cutting and removing selected portions of the blank to form a neck opening and arm openings. Fronc and rear portions of the shoulder portions are sewn together, and banding and the like can be added to finish the arm and neck openings, or the openings can be hemmed or selvaged.
- FIG. 1 is a perspective view illustrating an embodiment of a shirt according to the present invention as it is worn, the shirt being made from the blanks shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 and including a neck band in the form of an integrally knit turned welt;
- FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a circular knit cylindrical blank in accordance with the present invention from which the shirt of FIG. 1 is manufactured;
- FIG. 3 is a perspective view of the circular knit cylindrical blank of FIG. 2 as it appears during the manufacture of the shirt shown in FIG. 1 ;
- FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a sleeveless tank-style shirt made from the circular knit blank of FIG. 5, illustrating another embodiment of the present invention
- FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a circular knit blank in accordance with the present invention and from which the shirt of FIG. 4 is manufactured
- FIG. 6 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the invention including an integrally knit neckband in the form of a turned welt and a non- raveling edge about its lower torso encircling portion.
- FIG. 1 shows a preferred embodiment of the finished shirt of the present invention represented generally at 10.
- the shirt 10 includes a cylindrical tubular torso encircling portion 22 in the form of a turned welt.
- a middle torso portion 24 in the form of a fabric tube is knitted to the torso encircling portion 22 and is designed to cover the area of a wearer about the lower ribs and the waist, and below the waist as desired.
- the middle torso portion be of sufficient length to enable a wearer to tuck the lower end of the shirt into his or her pants, though other lengths are within the scope of the invention, such as a length which enables the shire lower edge to fall just above a wearer's waist.
- the first several courses of the middle torso portion 24 preferably include a series of puckers 23 gathering the middle torso portion 24 to the torso encircling portion 22, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3.
- An upper torso portion 27 comprising a series of courses defining a tubular fabric portion is knit to the middle torso portion 24 and includes a front upper torso portion 27a and a rear upper torso portion 27b .
- the front upper torso portion 27a in a preferred embodiment of the invention, includes a pair of integrally knit breast cups 26 defined by areas in which the courses are simple knit and have succeeding areas of courses varying between simple knit and welt knit courses.
- the courses defining the front torso portion 27a differentially shape the breast cups 26.
- the upper torso portion 27 includes a rear upper torso portion 27b above the turned welt of the torso encircling portion 22 in which the fabric is preferably in simple knit courses.
- the breast cups 26 are defined by areas in which the courses are simple knit with the breast cup areas 26 being separated by a center gathered panel area 25, shown in FIGS. 1-3, in which the courses vary between simple and welt knit courses.
- the gathered portion 25 is made by pulling the cams of the knitting machine away from the butts, allowing the shorter butt needles to pass through underneath the cams to hold the stitch for a predetermined number of courses, say 3 to 20 and preferably 10 to 12.
- the needles are then raised to clear the stitch to form a pleat, and the process is repeated until the gather is formed. Needles for tuck or pleat can be made without using cams by the selection of the needles to hold the stitch by knitting at welt height .
- a shoulder portion 29 is then knit to the upper torso portion in the form of a tubular fabric portion.
- the fabric forming the shoulder portion 29 is preferably knit in simple knit courses with patterns. Front portions of the shoulder portion are sewn to rear portions of the shoulder portion at seams 32 to form a completed shirt.
- a neck encircling portion 36 is integrally knit to the shoulder portion in the form of a turned welt, which forms the neckband of the completed shirt.
- sleeves 40 can be sewn to arm openings 38 at seams 39 to form a sleeved shirt, as shown in FIG. 1. It is particularly desired that these sleeves are circularly knit to include a band in the form of a turned welt 42 about one of their ends, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3.
- FIG. 2 there is shown a shirt blank 30, made on a high speed circular knitting machine, from which the shirt 10 is produced.
- the blank 30 is in tubular form, and is knit to include portions which correspond to the portions of the shirt described in FIG. 1.
- the reference characters corresponding to those used with reference to FIG. 1 will be applied in FIGS. 2 and 3, with the addition of prime notation.
- the torso encircling portion 22' in the blank 30, is preferably formed as a cylindrical tubular fabric turned welt.
- a middle torso portion 24' is knit to the torso encircling portion 22' as a tubular fabric portion.
- a series of puckers 23' is formed in the middle torso portion 24' immediately above the torso encircling portion 22' , as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3.
- the upper torso portion 27' is then knit to the middle torso portion 24' .
- the upper torso portion 27' is knit in tubular form to include a front upper torso portion 27a' and a rear upper torso portion 27b' .
- the blank includes a pair of integrally knit breast cups 26' on the front upper torso portion 27a' thereof.
- the breast cups 26' are defined by areas in which courses are simple knit, with the areas being spaced apart from one another.
- the breast cups 26' are separated one from the other by areas of gathered panels 25' m which succeeding courses vary between simple knit and welt knit courses, the knitting of courses defining the front upper torso portion differentially shaping the breast cups with respect to the gathered panels.
- the degree of shaping will vary, 97/47794 PC17US96/04770
- a shoulder portion 29' is knit to the upper torso portion 27', and preferably includes elongated areas in which the courses are simple knit, with the areas being divided by an elongate panel area.
- a cutting pattern can be formed in the knit structure of the blank itself, thereby enabling a worker to cut portions of the blank to form arm openings and define a neck section, without the need for additional patterning or marking.
- the yarn feeds can be manipulated in order that less yarn is fed to the portions of the blank 30 which are to be cut and removed, thereby reducing the amount of material waste produced as a result of shirt formation.
- a series of courses in the form of a turned welt is knit to the shoulder portion 29' to define a neck encircling portion 36' .
- This turned welt 36' also serves to prevent raveling of the blank 30 during the time from when the blank is produced until it is converted into a completed shirt 10.
- the various portions of the circular knit tubular shirt blank 30 are integrally knit together and have stitch constructions as described hereinabove .
- the method of manufacturing the blank will become more clearly understandable and may be characterized as knitting a series of courses defining a first cylindrical tubular portion in the form of a turned welt 22' , and then knitting to the turned welt portion a series of courses defining a middle torso portion 24' .
- the middle torso portion can include a series of puckers 23' immediately above the turned welt torso encircling portion 22' .
- An upper torso portion 27' formed by a series of courses defining a tubular fabric portion is then knit to the middle torso portion 24' .
- the upper torso portion can be knit to include first and second breast cups 26' in which spaced apart portions of the upper torso portion are simple knit.
- the breast cups 26' are spaced apart by gathered panels 25', as discussed above.
- a shoulder portion 29' is then knit to the upper torso portion 27', and preferably is knit to include a plurality of elongated areas in which the courses are simple knit, with these elongated areas being separated from each other by elongated panel areas.
- a plurality of courses defining a non- raveling edge are then knit to the shoulder portion 29' .
- the non-raveling edge is defined by a cylindrical tubular fabric portion in the form of a turned welt formed about the end of the blank which forms a neck encircling portion 36.
- the manufacture of the shirt 10 is performed as follows, with particular reference being made to FIGS. 2 and 3.
- the tubular blank 30 is cut along the dotted lines 33 and 35 shown in FIG. 2, and the cut portions are removed from the blank to thereby define arm openings 38 and a neck section 43 for encircling a neck opening 44.
- the thus cut blank 30, as shown in FIG. 3 is then joined at seams 32 to connect front and rear portions of the shoulder portion 29 at opposite sides of the neck opening 44, to thereby form a completed shirt.
- Banding and the like may be added to finish off the shirt, or raw arm opening edges can be selvaged to form a finished sleeveless shirt .
- sleeve blanks 40' are desirably knit in tubular form on a circular knitting machine. These blanks, in a preferred form of the invention, are each knit to include a turned welt 42' along their respective ends which will be positioned at a location remote from the juncture of the sleeve with the arm openings 38.
- the opposite end of the sleeve blanks 40' can also include a knit-m non-raveling edge (not shown) , which can be performed in any conventional manner.
- the sleeve blanks 40' are then attached to the respective sleeve openings 38, to thereby complete a sleeved shirt .
- Simple knit stitches are used to distinguish those stitch constructions possible on a circular knitting machine and in which yarn is taken into a needle during each rotation of the cylinder, such as plain, purl, tuck and combinations thereof.
- References to welt knit are intended to encompass miss-stitch or float stitch constructions in which loops in certain courses are held without additional yarns being taken and then knit into subsequent courses, thereby gathering the courses together and providing the characteristic turned welt or panel effect referred to above.
- a blank 130 is made similarly to the blank 30 in FIG. 2, but without the central gathered portion 25' or the turned welt about the upper portion of the blank.
- a series of courses forming a non-raveling edge 121 is formed about the upper portion of the blank.
- a cylindrical tubular fabric torso encircling portion 122' is knit in the form of a turned welt and a middle torso portion 124 is knit m tubular form to the torso encircling portion
- An upper torso portion 127 including a front upper torso portion 127a' and a rear upper torso portion 127b' is knit to the middle torso portion
- the front torso portion 127' comprises a series of courses defining a cylindrical tubular fabric portion having a pair of breast cups 126' on the front upper torso portion 127a defined by areas in which the courses are simple knit and having succeeding courses varying between simple knit and welt knit courses.
- a shoulder portion 129 is then knit to the upper torso portion 127 to define front and back fabric straps 131a and 131b, each having an elongated patterned area in which the courses are simple knit with the areas being divided on the blank by an elongated panel area in which succeeding courses vary between simple knit and welt knit courses.
- the blank 130 is completed by knitting several courses 121 forming a non-raveling edge.
- the shirt 110 shown is FIG. 4 is made from blank 130, shown in FIG. 5, by cutting along a pair of neck lines 133, and a pair of arm hole lines 135.
- the waste fabric is removed so as to define the front shoulder straps 131a and the rear shoulder straps 131b which are sewn together along seams 132.
- Banding and the like may be added to finish off the shirt, or the edges may be selvaged or hemmed in a conventional manner.
- FIG. 6 depicts an embodiment similar to that shown in FIGS 1-3.
- the shirt 210 like that of the other embodiments, includes a middle torso portion 224, an upper torso portion 227, a shoulder portion 229, and a neck encircling portion 236 in the form of a turned welt knitted to the shoulder portion 229.
- the torso encircling portion 222' is formed from several courses forming a non-raveling portion rather than as a turned welt, as in the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1-3.
- the only seams required to manufacture the shirt 210 are seams 232 joining front portions of the shoulder portion to rear portions of the shoulder portions about the neck encircling portion 236.
- the shirt blanks disclosed herein can thus be manufactured rapidly on high speed circular knitting machines and shirts can be manufactured from these blanks utilizing only a minimal number of seams.
- the shirt disclosed hereinabove can be used as either an outer or undergarment, depending on the materials used to manufacture the shirt and the wearer's desires, and can be used by women, men and children.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AU46430/97A AU4643097A (en) | 1995-04-11 | 1996-04-08 | Shirt blank, shirt and methods of making same |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US42024795A | 1995-04-11 | 1995-04-11 | |
US08/420,247 | 1995-04-11 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1997047794A1 true WO1997047794A1 (fr) | 1997-12-18 |
Family
ID=23665684
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/US1996/004770 WO1997047794A1 (fr) | 1995-04-11 | 1996-04-08 | Flan de maillot, maillot et procede de fabrication |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
AU (1) | AU4643097A (fr) |
WO (1) | WO1997047794A1 (fr) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0926285A2 (fr) * | 1997-12-23 | 1999-06-30 | SANTONI S.p.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article de vêtement dans un métier à tricoter circulaire, et article obtenu selon ce procédé |
WO2020065686A1 (fr) * | 2018-09-28 | 2020-04-02 | W-Z International S.R.L. | Procédure de fabrication d'un maillot de corps et maillot de corps obtenu par le biais de cette procédure |
Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3561000A (en) * | 1964-02-28 | 1971-02-02 | Bentley Eng Co Ltd | Knitted garment and method |
EP0037629A1 (fr) * | 1980-04-03 | 1981-10-14 | Pex Limited | Fabrication de vêtements tricotés |
US4531525A (en) * | 1983-11-25 | 1985-07-30 | Richards Mark S | Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products |
US4872324A (en) * | 1987-10-15 | 1989-10-10 | It's A Peach, Inc. | Elasticized knitted band |
EP0387766A1 (fr) * | 1989-03-16 | 1990-09-19 | LONATI S.p.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'une ébauche avec un métier à tricoter circulaire notamment pour la production de chemises, de vêtements de dessous d'une pièce et similaires |
WO1995029602A1 (fr) * | 1994-05-03 | 1995-11-09 | Alba-Waldensian, Inc. | Flan de soutien-gorge, soutien-gorge et procede de fabrication |
-
1996
- 1996-04-08 WO PCT/US1996/004770 patent/WO1997047794A1/fr active Application Filing
- 1996-04-08 AU AU46430/97A patent/AU4643097A/en not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3561000A (en) * | 1964-02-28 | 1971-02-02 | Bentley Eng Co Ltd | Knitted garment and method |
EP0037629A1 (fr) * | 1980-04-03 | 1981-10-14 | Pex Limited | Fabrication de vêtements tricotés |
US4531525A (en) * | 1983-11-25 | 1985-07-30 | Richards Mark S | Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products |
US4872324A (en) * | 1987-10-15 | 1989-10-10 | It's A Peach, Inc. | Elasticized knitted band |
EP0387766A1 (fr) * | 1989-03-16 | 1990-09-19 | LONATI S.p.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'une ébauche avec un métier à tricoter circulaire notamment pour la production de chemises, de vêtements de dessous d'une pièce et similaires |
WO1995029602A1 (fr) * | 1994-05-03 | 1995-11-09 | Alba-Waldensian, Inc. | Flan de soutien-gorge, soutien-gorge et procede de fabrication |
Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0926285A2 (fr) * | 1997-12-23 | 1999-06-30 | SANTONI S.p.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article de vêtement dans un métier à tricoter circulaire, et article obtenu selon ce procédé |
EP0926285A3 (fr) * | 1997-12-23 | 2000-04-26 | SANTONI S.p.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article de vêtement dans un métier à tricoter circulaire, et article obtenu selon ce procédé |
US6164094A (en) * | 1997-12-23 | 2000-12-26 | Santoni S.P.A. | Method for manufacturing a dressing item with a circular knitting machine, and item obtained with the method |
WO2020065686A1 (fr) * | 2018-09-28 | 2020-04-02 | W-Z International S.R.L. | Procédure de fabrication d'un maillot de corps et maillot de corps obtenu par le biais de cette procédure |
CN112789373A (zh) * | 2018-09-28 | 2021-05-11 | 圣东尼股份公司 | 用于制造汗衫的方法及利用此方法获得的汗衫 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
AU4643097A (en) | 1998-01-07 |
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