WO1996032921A1

WO1996032921A1 - Foaming agent for leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO1996032921A1
Application number: PCT/US1996/003707
Authority: WO
Inventors: Brett Kenneth Moss; Yin-Jang Chen; Hirotaka Uchiyama
Original assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date: 1995-04-18
Filing date: 1996-03-20
Publication date: 1996-10-24
Also published as: EP0822805A1; JPH10509184A; BR9608225A; CN1184416A; AUPN245395A0; EP0822805A4

Abstract

A foaming agent comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant which foams by being dispensed or sprayed, and provides improved foaming and clear, stable concentrate to foaming cosmetic, compositions. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the foaming agent is comprised in a foaming cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse composition, comprising the foaming agent and further comprising a solvent and optional components such as polymer, preservative and propellant.

Description

FOAMING AGENT FOR LEAVE-ON FOAMING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a foaming agent comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant which provides easily spreading foaming, clear and stable concentrates, and smooth and mild touch to leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to hair mousse products comprising this foaming agent.

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic compositions such as shaving creams, hair mousses, spray foams, foaming lotions and foaming creams are aimed to be dispensed or sprayed as foams and applied on the human skin or hair. These products are described in the present invention as "leave-on foaming cosmetic products". One common characteristic desired for these leave-on foaming cosmetic products is a foam having favorable characteristics to the consumer such as voluminous and stable foaming, with smooth and mild touch to the skin and hair.

Leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions for hair are usually referred to as "mousses", which term will be used in the present invention. Hair mousses were born in Europe in the early 1980s. Hair mousses are fundamentally an aerosol foam, however, non-aerosol foams are also known. The general appeal of hair mousses can be largely attributed to the ease of application and controlled amount of product which are possible from mousse formulations. Hair mousse compositions are generally dispensed by a compressible dispenser or a valve and applied to the user's hand or a specifically designed comb and spread through the hair. Alternatively, hair mousse compositions can be directly applied to the hair by dispensing through nozzles. Hair mousses are formulated for the purpose of styling, setting, and arranging, or for other purposes such as shampooing, conditioning, treating, dyeing, and combinations thereof.

In recent years, some consumers have expressed a desire to have "alcohol-free" hair mousse products because of concerns relating to drying of the hair, or concerns of volatile solvents being emitted to the environment. In this context, alcohol refers to volatile primary alcohols having about 1 to 6 carbons, particularly ethanol. Alcohol is used in mousses for a number of reasons. First, the presence of volatile alcohol can aid styling by decreasing drying time. However, it is assumed that this drying has raised the concerns of some consumers that alcohol is also drying hair. Second, alcohol aids foam breakage as the mousse is spread throughout the hair. It is known that foam breakage is a result of the ability of alcohol to act as a defoaming agent. Third, alcohol itself improves product preservation. Fourth, alcohol enhances the compatibility of the concentrate with the propellant, and acts as a solubility bridge between the resin and the water base. Fifth, alcohol is a good solvent for dissolving oil base ingredients such as conditioning fatty alcohols. Consequently, elimination of alcohol from the formulation may affect product performance. Thus, there is a desire to provide a foaming agent which can be used in hair mousse compositions with or without alcohol.

The species and level of preservatives are also known to affect product performance. Preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin (dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin) and Kathon CG (mixture of methylchloro- isothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone) are known as effective preservatives at low levels, however, are not approved for use in leave-on cosmetic products in a number of countries. Phenoxyethanol and EDTA are widely accepted for use, however, are not satisfactorily effective at low levels. Parabens such as methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, and LiquaPar oil (mixture of isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, and butyl paraben) are also widely accepted for use. However, because parabens are lipophilic, they cannot dissolve in water, and thus have some formulation constraints. Methyl paraben and propyl paraben are difficult to formulate at high levels, for they are solid at room temperature. Thus, there is also a desire to provide a foaming agent which can be used in hair mousse compositions in combination with a wide range of preservatives.

The type of propellants are also known to affect product performance. It is known that fluorohydrocarbons such as difluoroethane 152a (supplied by DuPont) can be used for a wide range of formulations. Propane and dimethyl ether can also be used for a wide range of formulations. However, propane is relatively combustible. Dimethyl ether when used at high levels can be corrosive. LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) is a mixture of mainly iso-butane, n-butane, and propane, and is available in different pressure grades. LPG is a relatively safe propellant, however, have some formulation constraints. Thus, there is also a desire to provide a foaming agent which can be used in hair mousse compositions in combination with a wide range of propellants.

Evaluation of product performance for hair mousse compositions vary depending on the purpose and concept of the product. In evaluating the performance of a hair mousse, one generally considers properties seen in three major stages; the properties of the foam upon dispensing from the package, the properties of the foam upon applying to the hair, and properties of the end results to the hair. Properties considered upon dispensing include volume of foam and foam expansion speed. It is known that when foam expansion is slow or delayed, "pooling" of the product occurs. Properties considered upon applying to the hair include stability and breakability of the foam, non-soapiness, smoothness, softness, creaminess, and stickiness. Properties considered on the end results to the hair include style control, dry or wet feel of hair, washability, shine, moisturizing, conditioning, anti-static, and brushing.

An attempt to achieve the above requirement, co-pending, commonly-assigned U.S. application serial number 08/154,231 (Y.Chen and T.Nambu) filed November 18, 1993 discloses a foaming agent for leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions comprising an amphoteric surfactant and an amine oxide.

However there remains a need for foaming cosmetic compositions having improved clear and stable concentrations and products which contain no amine oxide. In Europe, there is an interest in a formula that does not use amine oxide for safety reasons.

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to provide a foaming agent which foams by being dispensed or sprayed, and provides voluminous and stable foaming, smooth and mild touch, and styling/conditioning effect to leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide a hair mousse composition comprising said foaming agent which can be formulated in combination with a wide range of solvents, preservatives, and propellants. It is also an object of the present invention to provide a foaming cosmetic composition which provides a stable and clear concentrate for better product stability.

It is further an object of the present invention to provide a hair mousse composition comprising said foaming agent which provides quick, voluminous foam expansion and reduced pooling upon dispensing.

It is further an objective of the present invention to use a surfactant system that does not contain amine oxide.

It is further an object of the present invention to provide a hair mousse composition comprising said foaming agent which provides a foam having appropriate foam breakdown under shear and is easy to spread on hair, has a smooth, soft and creamy texture, and has a mild touch.

It is further an object of the present invention to provide a hair mousse composition comprising said foaming agent which provides good style control, conditioning effect, and good feel to the hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a foaming agent comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant which provides easily spreading foaming, clear and stable concentrates, and smooth and mild touch to leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions.

The present invention also relates to a foaming cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse composition comprising the foaming agent and further comprising a solvent and a propellant. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hair mousse composition comprises the foaming agent comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant, from 0.05% to 5%, and at least one quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant, from 0.05% to 5% and further comprises a polymer, a solvent, a preservative, and a propellant.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All percentages and ratios are based on weight unless otherwise specified. The total of components except for propellant is defined as a concentrate. For non-aerosol products containing no propellant, the concentrate is equal to the entire composition. FOAMING AGENT

The foaming agent of the present invention comprises an amphoteric surfactant and a quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant. When comprised in cosmetic products such as hair mousses, the foaming agent is preferably comprised at a level of 0.1% to 10%, more preferably 0.1% to 6% to the concentrate.

When comprised in a foaming cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse, the foaming agent of the present invention preferably comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant. Each of the amphoteric surfactant and the quaternary ammomium cationic surfactant is included in a foaming cosmetic composition, 0.05% to 5% respectively, more preferably 0.05% to 3% respectively.

Amphoteric Surfactant

Amphoteric surfactants useful in the present invention are those having the following general formulae (I) (II), (III) and (IV) and mixtures thereof:

R2

R1 [CONH(CH2)n]χN(+)_ CH2(R )mZ¹ (-) (I)

R3 wherein R¹ is an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, or R -M-Ry wherein R^x and R^v are respectively an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and M is (OCH2CH2)n and/or glyceryl wherein n is up to about 10, R² and R³ are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R⁴ is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z¹ is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or 1. Preferably, R¹ is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from 11 to 17 carbon atoms, R² and R³ are individually selected from alkyl groups containing of from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, R⁴ is alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulfonate, x is 0 or 1 , n is 1 to 3, and m is 0 or 1. R7

R⁵CON(CH2)y N(+)-CH2∑²(-) (II)

Rδ R6 wherein R5 IS C8-C22 alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi, preferably Cβ- C22, R⁶ is hydrogen or CH2CO2M¹ , R⁷ is CH2CH2OH or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM¹ , Rδ IS hydrogen, CH2CH2OH, or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM¹ , Z² is CO2M¹ or CH2CO2M¹ , y is 2 or 3, preferably 2, M¹ is hydrogen or a cation, such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkanol ammonium, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate, or phosphonate

R⁹-NH(CH2)aCOOM² (III)

R⁹-N[(CH2)_aCOOM²]2 (IV) wherein a is a number from 1 to 4, R⁹ is C8-C22 alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyalkyi or alkylamidoalkyls, and M² is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium

Examples of amphoteric surfactants useful for hair mousse compositions having general formula (I) are amide betaines, amide sulfo betaines, alkyl betaines, alkenyl betaines, sultaines (sulfo betaines), and imidazolinium betaines Examples of amphoteric surfactants particularly useful for hair mousse compositions are high alkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betame, cocamidopropyl betaine under the trade name of TEGO BETAINE, coco betaine, lauryl betaine under the trade name REWOTERIC AM DML-35, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bιs-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bιs-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bιs-(2- hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine (sulfobetaine), lauryl sultaine (lauryl sulfobetame), and cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine under the trade name REWOTERIC AM CAS

Examples of amphoteric surfactants useful for hair mousse compositions having general formula (II) are marketed under the trade name MIRANOL and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species, and can exist in protonated and non-protonated species depending upon pH with respect to species that can have a hydrogen at R^ The imidazolmium amphoteric surfactant hereof can be derived via an imidazolinium intermediate

Preferred amphoteric surfactants of formula (II) are monocarboxylates and dicarboxylates Examples of these materials include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, cocoamphocarboxyglycinate (alternately referred to as cocoamphodiacetate), and cocoamphoacetate

Specific commercial products providing the imidazolinium derivative component of the present compositions include those sold under the trade names MIRANOL C2M CONC N P , MIRANOL C2M CONC O P , MIRANOL C2M SF, MIRANOL CM SPECIAL (Miranol, Inc ), ALKATERIC 2CIP (Alkaril Chemicals), cocoamphocarboxy propionate under the trade name NIKKOL AM-101 , AMPHOTERGE W-2 (Lonza, Inc ), MONATERIC CDX-38, MONATERIC CSH-32 (Mona Industries), REWOTERIC AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group), and SCHEROTERIC MS-2 (Scher Chemicals)

Examples of amphoteric surfactants useful for hair mousse compositions having general formulae (III) and (IV) include n- alkylaminopropiona.es and n-alky minodipropionates Such materials are sold under the trade name DERIPHAT by Henkel and MIRATAINE by Miranol, Inc Specific examples include N-lauryl-beta-amino propionic acid or salts thereof, and N-lauryl-beta-imino-dipropionic acid or salts thereof

Quaternary Ammonium Cationic Surfactant

Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants useful in the present invention are those having the following general formula (V)and (VI) and mixtures thereof

R1²

R10 N⁺ R^{1 1} X- (V)

R1² wherein R¹⁰ is alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, alkylamidopropyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and R^{1 1} is methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl benzyl, or up to about 5 ethylene oxide moieties, R12 is methyl, ethyl, or propyl, and X" is chloride, bromide, tosylate, or methosulfate Preferably R10 ,_{S an} aikyi _or alkylamidopropyl of from about 16 to about 20, R^{1 1} is selected from methyl, or benzyl, R12 is methyl or ethyl, and X- is chloride or bromide.

R14

R13 N⁺ R ³ Y- (VI)

_R14 wherein R¹³ is alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, alkylamidopropyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, R14 is methyl or ethyl, and Y" is chloride, bromide, tosylate, or methosulfate. Preferably R^³ is an alkyl, or hydroxyalkyi, R14 is methyl or ethyl, and Y" is chloride or bromide.

Examples of quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants useful for hair mousse compositions having general formula (V) include alkyltrimonium salts, alkylamidopropyl salts, alkylbenzylammonium salts, and PEG-n alkyl ammonium chlorides (where n is the PEG chain length). Examples of quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants particulary useful for foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousse compositions are: (i) alkyltrimonium salts such as Behentrimonium chloride under the trade name of INCROQUAT TMC-80 (Croda), Cetrimonium chloride under the trade name of ARQUAD 16-25W (Akzo), Cetrimonium bromide, Cocotrimonium chloride under the trade name of ARQUAD C-33W (Akzo), Steartrimonium chloride under the trade name of VARISOFT TSC (Sherex), Myrtrimonium bromide, Soytrimonium chloride, Stearyltrimonium methosulfate, Tallowtrimonium chloride under the trade name of ADOGEN 471 (Sherex), Cetrimonium tosylate, Laurtrimonium chloride, Dodecylbenzyltrimonium chloride, Cetethyldimonium bromide under the trade name of BRETOL (Hexcel), and Benzyltriethylammonium chloride under the trade name of SUMQUAT 2355 (Hexcel).

(ii) alkylamidopropyl salts such as Stearamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate under the trade name of CATIGENE SA-70, Stearamidalkonium chloride, Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Chloride under the trade name of SURFACTOL Q1 (CasChem), Stearamidopropalkonium chloride, Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-33 under the trade name of LANOQUAT 1756 (Henkel).

(iii) alkylbenzylammonium salts such as Cetalkonium chloride under the trade name of SUMQUAT 6050 (Hexcel), Cetearalkonium bromide, Stearalkonium chloride under the trade name of INCROQUAT SDQ-25 (Croda), and Lauralkonium bromide.

(iv) PEG-n alkyl ammonium chlorides such as PEG-2 Stearmonium chloride under the trade name of ETHOQUAD 18/12 (Akzo), and PEG-5 Stearmonium chloride.

Examples of quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants useful for hair mousse compositions having general formula (VI) are dialkyldimonium chlorides. Preferred compounds include dicetyldimonium chloride under the trade name of ADOGEN 432-100 (Sherex), dicocodimonium chloride under the trade name of VARISOFT 462 (Sherex), distearyldimonium chloride under the trade name of ARQUAD 218-100-P (Akzo), ditallowdimonium chloride and dilauryldimonium chloride.

SOLVENT

Solvents used in the present invention are selected depending on variables such as the remainder of components, viscosity, and desired foaming characteristic of the composition.

When comprised in foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousses, the solvent is preferably comprised at a level of 60-99%, more preferably 80-99%, most preferably 85-98% of the concentrate.

Non-limiting examples of solvents useful in the present invention are: water, lower alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol, and mixtures thereof.

PROPELLANT

Propellants when used in the present invention are selected depending on variables such as the remainder of components, the package, and how the product is designed to be used (standing or invert).

When comprised in foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousses, the propellant is preferably comprised at a level of 0-60%, more preferably 0-30% of the entire composition. When no propellant is used, the hair mousse composition is usually provided in a package equipped with an air or gas mixing device.

Non-limiting examples of propellants useful in the present invention are: fluorohydrocarbons such as difluoroethane 152a (supplied by DuPont), dimethyl ether, and hydrocarbons such as propane, iso-butane, n-butane, and mixtures of hydrocarbons such as LPG (liquefied petroleum gas).

OPTIONAL COMPONENTS

Optional components can be included in the leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions of the present invention, depending on the needs of the product. Non-limiting examples of such optional components include additional surfactants, ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents, hair conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents, perfume, color, pH adjusters, polymers, dyes, vitamins, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients.

Foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousse compositions can comprise a polymer and a preservative, and can further comprise other optional components. Polymer

Foaming cosmetic compositions such as fair mousse compositions may further comprise a polymer. Such polymers may comprise cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric polymers. The polymer is typically included at a level of 0-15%, preferably 0-10% of the concentrate.

Polymers suitable for use herein include any polymer soluble or colloidally dispersible in the aqueous phase (if water is the only solvent in the aqueous phase, the polymer should be soluble or dispersible in water; if an optional cosolvent such as ethanol is present the polymer should be soluble or dispersible in the combined solvent system). Solubility/dispersibility is determined at ambient conditions of temperature and pressure (25°C at 1At). Polymers for use in the compositions of the present invention include cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric resins.

Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers useful in the present invention include quatemized cellulose ethers such as Polyquaternium 10 (hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride ether) under the trade name Ucare Polymer LR and Polyquaternium 4 (hydroxyethylcellulose dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride copolymer) under the trade name Celquat, quatemized vinyl pyrrolidone/ alkylaminoacrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as Polyquaternium 11 (polyvinylpyrrolidone N,N'-dimethylaminoethylmethacrylic acid copolymer diethyl sulfate salt) under the trade name Gafquat, methylvinylimidazolium vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers commercially available under the trade name Luviquat, vinylmethyl ether ethyl maleate copolymer (PVM/MA copolymer), PVP/VA copolymer under the trade name Luviskol, polyvinyl alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, polyvinylpyrrolidone ethylmethacrylate methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide acrylate butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, N- methacryloyl ethyl-N,N'-dimethyl ammonium gamma-N-methyl carboxy betaine butyl methacrylate copolymer under the trade name Yukaformer AM-75, and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of cationic polymers include silicone-grafted copolymers (including mixtures of such copolymers), comprising silicone covalently bonded to the polymer backbone (i.e. silicone chains are grafted to the backbone), and are derived by polymerization of a combination of nonionic, nonquatemizable, water soluble monomers and nonionic, quaternizable monomers. The silicone macromers will generally be incorporated into the polymer by conducting the polymerization of the above two types of monomers also in the presence of silicone macromer, i.e. silicone containing monomers.

The silicone macromer-grafted copolymers hereof will have a polymeric backbone with a Tg of from about 30°C to about 140°C. The silicone macromer-containing copolymers have an organic polymeric backbone, preferably a vinyl backbone or other carbon-based backbone derived from ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable monomers. The polymers are derived by polymerization of: from about 2% to 15%, by weight, of silicone macromers; from about 5% to 40%, by weight, anionic, quaternizable monomers; and from about 30% to 60%, by weight, of non¬ ionic, water soluble, nonquatemizable monomers. At least 5% of the monomers, by weight are quatemized.

The quaternizable nonionic monomers hereof include quaternizable, amino-functional ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as the amino functional derivatives of styrene, acrylamides, methacrylamides, (meth)acrylates such as C1-C5 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.

Examples of such monomers include: (i) p- dimethylaminomethylstyrene, p-dimethylaminoethylstyrene; (ii) dimethylaminomethyl acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, dimethylaminomethyl methacrylamide, dimethylammoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, and dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamιde

Examples of nonionic, nonquatemizable, water soluble monomers include acrylamides, methacrylamides, (meth)acrylates, cmamides, vinyl alcohols, vinyl pyrro dones, vinyl oxazo dones, and derivatives thereof Specific examples include acrylamide, methacrylamide, mono- and di- C - C6 alkyl (meth)acrylamιdes, such as dimethylacrylamide, dimethylmethacrylamide, isopropylacrylamide, t-butylacrylamide, isopropylmethacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, mono- and di- C1-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylamides, such dimethylacrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, cetyl methacrylate, acrylglycinamide, methacrylglycinamide, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl oxazolidone, vinylmethoxazolidone, and poly(ethylene glycol) phenyl ether (meth)acrylate

Other examples of cationic polymers are cationic guar gums, for example, hydroxypropyltπmethylammonium guar gum, quatemized cellulose ethers such as copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose with diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride or with tπmethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, homopolymers of lower alkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers (e g dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate) and copolymers thereof with compatible monomers such as N-vmylpyrrolidone or with methacrylate derivatives such as methyl, ethyl and oleyl methacrylates and mixtures thereof and/or with alkyl acrylates such as methyl and butyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium/vmyl pyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof

Other examples of polycationic hair conditioning polymers can be derived from polymeπzable cationic starting monomers, or from polymeπzable nonionic monomers which are modified subsequent to polymerization to be of cationic character

Examples of the cationic monomers include

(i) monomers derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, which is referred to hereinafter collectively as (meth)acrylιc acid, and a quatemized epihalohydπn product of a tnalkyl amine having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as (methy)acryloxypropylthmethylammonium choride and (rneth)acryloxy propyltriethylammonium bromide; (ii) amine derivatives of (meth)acrylic acid or amine derivatives of (meth)acrylamide derived from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide and a dialkylalkanolamine have C1-C4 alkyl groups such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, or dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide; and (iii) derivatives of the products of the group (ii) above by (1 ) neutralization with an inorganic or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, or lactic acid, (2) modification with a halogenated alkyl, such as methyl chloride, ethyl chloride, methyl bromide, or ethyl iodide, (3) modification with a halogenated fatty acid ester such as ethyl monochloroacetate, or methyl monochloropropionate, and (4) modification with a dialkyl sulfate such as dimethyl sulfate, or diethyl sulfate.

Furthermore, the cationic unsaturated monomers include amine derivatives of allyl compounds such as diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the like as well as vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers.

These cationic unsaturated monomers can be polymerized in cationic form, or as an alternative they can be polymerized in the form of their precursors, which are then modified to be cationic, for example, by a quaternizing agent (eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, diethyl sulfate, methyl chlo de,etc.)

Non-limiting examples of nonionic monomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of C1-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1- propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 1-pentanol, 2- pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-l-butanol, 3-methyl-1- butanol, 1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol, t- butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol, 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol, 2- octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5-dimethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 1 -decanol, 1 -dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1- octadecanol, and the like, the alcohols having from about 1-24 carbon atoms; styrene; chlorostyrene; vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; acrylonitrile; alpha-methylstyrene; t- butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyl toluene; alkoxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, such as methoxy ethyl (meth)acrylate and butoxyethyl (meth)acrylate; and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic monomers include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, 1 ,3- butyleneglycol d-acrylate and -methacrylate, diaceton acrylamide, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of polar nonionic monomers include acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, methacrylonitrile, acrylamide, acrylate alcohols (eg. C2-C6 acrylate alcohols such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxyproxyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lactones and vinyl pyridine, allyl alcohols, vinyl alcohols and vinyl caprolactam.

Non-limiting examples of polycationic polymers include cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, especially from alkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkylene imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preservative

Foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousse compositions can further comprise a preservative. Such preservative is preferably included at a level of 0-5%, more preferably 0-3% of the concentrate.

Non-limiting examples of preservatives useful in the present invention are DMDM Hydantoin (dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin) Kathon CG, (mixture of methylchloro-isothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone), imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, EDTA and its salts, benzyl alcohol, and parabens such as methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, and LiquaPar oil (mixture of isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, and butyl paraben). Other Optional Components

Foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousse compositions can further comprise additional surfactants. Such additional surfactants comprise nonionic, cationic, anionic, and other amphoteric surfactants which do not affect the foaming agent of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of such additional surfactants include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate (sodium cocoyl ethyl ester sulfonate), isosteareth 10, and Geropon TC-42 (Na-N-Cocoyl N- Methyl Taurate) lauric acid dimethanolamide. Additional surfactant is typically included at a level of less than 50%, preferably less than 33% of the foaming agent.

Foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair mousse compositions may further comprise a variety of optional components. Such optional components include; thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as diethanolamides of long chain fatty acids, sodium chloride, and sodium sulfate, hair conditioning agents such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and panthenol, ultraviolet absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine, coloring agents, hair oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate salts and persulfate salts, hair reducing agents such as thioglycolates, perfumes, perfume solubilizing agents such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sequestering agents, polymer plasticizing agents such as glycerin and propylene glycol, and volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids. Such optional ingredients are typically included at a level of 0.01-20%, preferably from 0.1-10% of the concentrate.

EXAMPLES

The following examples illustrate the compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. All percentages and ratios are described are based on weight unless otherwise specified.

TABLE 1 COMPONENT AMOUNT (%)

EXAMPLE NO.

1 ^{2 3} 4

Concentrate 94.0 90.0 92.0 79.0

Propellant L.P.G. 6.0 10.0 8.0 21.0

Total of Composition 100 100 100 100 COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE

Cocamidopropyl Betaine^*1 0.70 0.6 - -

Lauryl Betaine^*2 - 0.15 0.70 -

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine^*3 - - - 0.40

Cetrimonium chloride^*4 - - - 1.40

Steartrimonium chloride^*^ 0.20 0.20 - -

Dicetyldimonium chloride^*^ - - 0.30 -

Stearalkonium chloride^*7 - - - 0.40

Isosteareth 10^*10 - 0.05 0.05 -

Lauramide DEA^{*1 1} - - - 0.30

Polyquaternium 4 2.50 - 2.00 1.00

Polyquaternium 7 - 0.30 - -

Polyquaternium 11 - 1.00 1.00 2.00

Ethyl ether of PVM/MA copolymer - - 6.00 -

Ethanol - - 4.50 10.00

Methyl Paraben 0.15 0.20 0.25 -

Propyl Paraben - 0.15 - 0.30

Phenoxyethanol 0.25 - 0.30 -

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 - 0.10

Dimethicone Copolyol - - 0.20 -

Perfume 0.10 0.05 0.10 0.05

Propylene Glycol 0.10 0.20 - 0.60

DI Water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Total of Concentrate 100 100 100 100

TABLE 2

COMPONENT AMOUNT (' %)

EXAMPLE NO.

5 6 7 8

Concentrate 93.0 95.0 100 93

Propellant L.P.G. 7.0 5.0 0 7

Total of Composition 100 100 100 100

COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE

Cocamidopropyl Betaine^*1 - 1.00 4.00 1.5

Lauryl Betaine^*2 0.70 - 0.3 -

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine^*3 Cetrimonium chloride^*4 3.10 0.5 Dicetyldimonium chloride^*6 0.05 0.30 0.30 0.30

Cetrimonium bromide^*8

Behentrimonium chloride^*9 - 0.05 0.05 -

Isosteareth 10^*10 - 0.10 0.05

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate^*12 - - 0.05 -

Polyquaternium 7 3.00 2.00 - -

Polyquaternium 10 - 0.50 2.50 -

Silicone grafted copolymer - - - 3.50

PVP/VA Copolymer - 1.00 1.00 -

Ethyl ether of PVM/MA copolymer 0.75 - 2.00 -

Ethanol - 5.00 8.00 -

Methyl Paraben 0.20 0.20 0.15 0.15

Propyl Paraben - 0.10 - -

Phenoxyethanol 0.50 - 0.25 0.25

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Dimethicone Copolyol - - 1.00 -

Perfume 0.07 0.10 0.05 0.10

Propylene Glycol _ 0.50 1.75 0.30

DI Water _____ _g_s__ iL ___

Total of Concentrate 100 100 100 100

Experiment

The following formulas were used in experiments comparing performance of the products. Composition A: A mousse composition which is an example of the composition of copending U.S. application Serial No. 08/154231.

Composition B: A mousse composition which is an example of the present invention.

TABLE 3

COMPONENT AMOUNT (%)

EXAMPLE NO.

A B

Concentrate 94.0 94.0

Propellant L.P.G. 6.0 6.0

Total of Composition 100 100

COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE

Cocamidopropyl Betaine^*1 0.3 0.3

Lauramine Oxide^{*1 3} 0.3 - Stearammonium Chloride^*5 - 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride^*4 - 0.1 Polyquaternium 4 3.00 3.00 Polyquaternium 11 1.00 1.00 Methyl Paraben 0.15 0.15 Propyl Paraben 0.15 0.15 Phenoxyethanol 0.25 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 Perfume 0.10 0.10

Propylene Glycol 0.10 0.10 DI Water . -. __!_!

Total of Concentrate 100 100

*1 Active of TEGO BETAINE S (30% solution).

^*2 Active of REWOTERIC AM DML-35 (35% solution).

*3 Active of REWOTERIC AM CAS (50% solution).

*4 Active of ARQUAD 16-25W (25% solution).

*5 Active of VARISOFT TSC (100% solution).

^*6 Active of ADOGEN 432-100 (100% solution).

*7 Active of INCROQUAT SDQ-25 (25% solution).

*8 Active of CETRIMIDE (100% solution).

*9 Active of INCROQUAT TMC-95 (95% solution).

^•10 Active of AEROSURF 66 E10 (100% solution).

*11 Active of STANDAMID LDS-RV (30% solution).

*12 Active of DIAPON Cl-R (90% solution).

*13 Active of AMMONYX LO (30% solution).

The components shown in Tables 1 and 2 and 3 can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. A suitable method is as follows: Propylene glycol, dimethicone copolyol, preservatives, polymers, and foaming agent are added into distilled water under agitation at room temperature until homogenized. The obtained mixture is heated to 70- 75°C. Other optional components are added to the heated mixture, and agitated until homogenized. The obtained mixture is allowed to cool to 30- 40°C, and perfume and and other heat sensitive components such as sodium cocoyl isethionate are added. The obtained concentrate is packed into cans with propellant.

Evaluation of the Present Invention

Evaluation of a composition of the present invention has been done according to the following three methods by using the following test products (compositions A and B):

1. Test products: (As shown in Table 3)

Composition A: A mousse composition which is an example of the composition of copending U.S. application Serial No. 08/154231. Composition B: A mousse composition which is an example of the present invention.

(1 ). Concentrate Clarity Test

Method: 10 gram product concentrates are placed in glass vials (100 ml, 4 cm diameter with 10 cm height). Products are compared subjectively by 10 panelists to rate the clarity based on the following rating scale;

0: Very clear

1 : Clear

2: Mostly clear, some cloudiness

3: Slightly cloudy

4: Cloudy

5: Very cloudy

6: Opaque Results: The results of the 10 panelist evaluation showed that composition B was significantly clearer (higher clarity) than composition A.

Composition A: average score is 3.4, standard deviation is 0.71 Composition B: average score is 1.3, standard deviation is 0.48

(2). Foam Appearance Test

Method: Compositions A and B were packed into aerosol containers (aluminum cans of 150cc capacity), sealed, and pressurized with LPG propellant. The products are dispensed as mousse foam. 10 panelists were asked to evaluate the appearance of the foam based on ease of spreading. 0: Foam is soft and easy to spread

1 : Easy to spread, does not collapse

2: Foam is creamy and is easy to spread

3: Foam is easy to spread

4: Does not spread easily

5: Difficult to spread Results: The results showed that the composition B was significantly easier to spread than composition A. Composition A: Score 3.8 +- 0.4 Composition B: Score 2.5 +- 0.5

3). Film Smoothness Test

Method: 10 gram of product concentrates were dried to films in plastic dishes (dimension 10cm x 10cm). They are compared subjectively by 10 panelists to rate the film smoothness based on a 0-5 scale.

0: Very rough to touch

1 : Rough

2: Slightly rough

3: Mainly smooth with some rough areas

4: Smooth to touch

5. Very smooth to touch Results: The results showed that the composition B produces dried films which were significantly smoother to the touch than composition A. Composition A: Score 4.5 +- 0.4 Composition B: Score 2.9 +- 0.5 What is claimed is:

Claims

1. A foaming agent for leave-on foaming cosmetic composition comprising: (1 ) an amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of general formula (I):

R²

R [CONH(CH2)n]χN(+)_ CH2(R )_mZ¹ (-) (I)

R³ wherein R¹ is an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, or R^x-M-Ry wherein R^x and R^v are respectively an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and M is (OCH2CH2)n and/or glyceryl wherein n is up to about 10, R² and R³ are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R⁴ is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z¹ is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or

1 ; general formula (II):

R⁷

R⁵CON(CH2)y N(+)-CH2Z²(-) (II)

R8 R6

wherein R⁵ is C8-C22 alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, or hydroxyalkyi, R⁶ is hydrogen or CH2CO2M¹ , R⁷ is CH2CH2OH or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM¹ , R^β is hydrogen, CH2CH2OH, or CH2CH2OCH2CH2COOM¹ , Z² is CO2M¹ or CH2CO2M¹ , y is 2 or 3, M¹ is hydrogen or a cation, such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkanol ammonium, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate, or phosphonate; general formula (III):

R⁹-NH(CH2)aCOOM² — (III) /32921 PC17US96/03707

22 wherein a is a number from 1 to 4, R⁹ is C8-C22 alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyalkyi or alkylamidoalkyls, and M² is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; general formula (IV):

R⁹-N[(CH2)aCOOM ]2 (IV) wherein a is a number from 1 to 4, R⁹ is C8-C22 alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyalkyi or alkylamidoalkyls, and M² is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; and mixtures thereof; and

(2) a quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of general formula (V):

R¹²

R¹0 N⁺ R^{1 1} X- (V)

R¹² wherein R¹*³ is alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, alkylamidopropyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and R^{1 1} is methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl, or up to about 5 ethylene oxide moieties, R12 is methyl, ethyl, or propyl, and X- is chloride, bromide, tosylate, or methosulfate.

general formula (VI):

_R14

R¹³ N⁺ R ³ Y- (VI)

_R14 wherein R¹³ is alkyl, alkenyl, aryl, alkylamidopropyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, R14 is methyl or ethyl, and Y- is chloride, bromide, tosylate, or methosulfate.

2. A foaming cosmetic composition comprising the foaming agent according to Claim 1 wherein said composition comprises 0.005-5% by weight of said amphoteric surfactant and 0.005-5% by weight of said quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

3. A hair mousse composition according to Claim 1 which foams by being dispensed or sprayed, comprising by weight: i) 40-100% a concentrate, said concentrate comprising by weight: a) 0.1-20% said foaming agent; and b) 60-99% a solvent; and ii) 0-60% a propellant.

4. The hair mousse composition according to Claim 3 comprising by weight: i) 40-100% said concentrate, said concentrate comprising by weight: a) 0.1 -10% said foaming agent; b) 80-99% said solvent; c) 0-15% a polymer which is cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or mixture thereof; and d) 0-5% a preservative; and ii) 0-60% said propellant.

5. The hair mousse composition according to Claim 3 comprising by weight: i) 70-100% said concentrate, said concentrate comprising: a) 0.005-5% said amphoteric surfactant b) 0.005-5% said quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant c) 85-98% said solvent; and d) 0-15% a polymer which is cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or mixture thereof; and; e) 0-3% said preservative; and ii) 0-30% said propellant.

6. The hair mousse composition according to Claim 3 comprising by weight: i) 70-100% said concentrate, said concentrate comprising: a) 0.005-5% said amphoteric surfactant b) 0.005-5% said quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant c) 85-98% said solvent; and d) 0-15% a polymer which is a cationic silicone grafted copolymer, and, e) 0-3% said preservative and n) 0-30% said propellant

The hair mousse composition according to Claim 3 wherein said solvent is substantially selected from the group consisting of water and polyhydπc alcohol

The hair mousse composition according to Claim 4 wherein said solvent is substantially selected from the group consisting of water and polyhydπc alcohol

The hair mousse composition according to Claim 5 wherein said solvent is substantially selected from the group consisting of water and polyhydπc alcohol

The hair mousse composition according to Claim 6 wherein said solvent is substantially selected from the group consisting of water and polyhydric alcohol