WO1994002115A1 - Hair cosmetic - Google Patents

Hair cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1994002115A1
WO1994002115A1 PCT/US1993/006085 US9306085W WO9402115A1 WO 1994002115 A1 WO1994002115 A1 WO 1994002115A1 US 9306085 W US9306085 W US 9306085W WO 9402115 A1 WO9402115 A1 WO 9402115A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
betaine
styling mousse
copolymers
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1993/006085
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Gillian Chambers
Original Assignee
The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority to JP6504473A priority Critical patent/JPH08512018A/en
Priority to EP93916772A priority patent/EP0650351A4/en
Publication of WO1994002115A1 publication Critical patent/WO1994002115A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair styling mousse products.
  • hair styling mousse products In particular it relates to non-aerosol hair styling mousse products which provide optimum foaming, hair setting, hair feel and hair conditioning characteristics while reducing stickiness and being easily spreadable on the hair.
  • the desire to have hair retain a particular shape or configuration is one that is widely held. It is possible to alter the shape of the hair either permanently or temporarily. Permanent alteration involves the use of chemical agents to react with the hair in order to achieve the desired effect. This process can be carried out at either room or elevated temperature.
  • the temporary set given to hair is, as the term indicates, a temporary arrangement which can be removed by water or by shampooing.
  • the materials used to provide the set have generally been resins or gums.
  • the temporary set compositions have taken the form of gels, lotions and sprays as well as others. The compositions are applied most often to hair dampened with water, combed or by other means spread through the hair and let dry.
  • the set given will vary depending on the materials used.
  • the conventional hair styling mousse generally utilizes a water soluble polymer, water, possibly a conditioning agent, an emulsifier, aesthetic agents and the propellant. More recently, however, due to an increasing public awareness of the effects of volatile organic compounds, such as aerosol propellants, on the environment, hair styling mousse products have been formulated without a propellant and dispensed from a manually-actuable container so as to be of the non-aerosol type. Unfortunately, however, there are a number of problems associated with non-aerosol products. In particular they provide mousses which are of poor foam quality and stability and which are undesirably sticky. Moreover, many of these formulations are lacking in hair holding, hair feel or hair conditioning characteristics.
  • non-aerosol, hair styling mousse product which provides a high quality mousse with the desired combination of good initial foam formation, foam breakdown under shear, non-soapiness and easy spreadability, while at the same time not being too sticky. It would also be desirable to provide a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product with improved foaming quality together with good hold, hair feel and conditioning.
  • a mousse which possesses the desired characteristics of good quality foaming, easy spreadability, non-stickiness, hold, feel and conditioning. Accordingly it is an object of the present invention to provide a superior non- aerosol hair styling mousse product by incorporating therein a selected mixture of amphoteric surfactant, water-soluble cationic surfactant and polymer resins.
  • a hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser equipped with a reservoir, spray head and liquid/air mixing means, wherein the reservoir contains a hair-styling mousse composition comprising:
  • amphoteric surfactants having the formula (I)
  • R 1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally i ⁇ terupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety
  • R 2 and R 3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyi groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms
  • R 4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms
  • Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulpho ⁇ ate or sulphate
  • x is 0 or 1
  • n is from about 1 to about 6
  • m is 0 or 1.
  • a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable dispenser containing a reservoir, dispensing head, and liquid/air mixing means, the reservoir comprising a hair styling mousse composition.
  • the present invention also relates to the mousse composition itself and to use thereof in a manually- actuable dispenser.
  • the hair styling mousse composition of the present invention comprises a nonionic, anionic or amphoteric hair setting polymer resin, and/or a cationic 5 hair conditioning polymer resin, an amphoteric surfactant, a water-soluble cationinc surfactant and water or a water/solvent mixture.
  • the hair setting polymer resin is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition.
  • Hair setting resins suitable for use herein include any resin soluble or colloidally dispersibie in the aqueous phase (if water is the only solvent in the aqueous phase, the resin should be soluble or dispersibie in water; if an optional cosolvent such as ethanol is present the resin should be soluble or dispersibie in the combined solvent system). Solubility/dispersibility is determined at ambient conditions of temperature and pressure (25°C at 1 At). Resins for use in the compositions of the present invention include anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric resins.
  • Specific resins for use herein include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and methylmethacrylate, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyiacetate, polyvinyl alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, polyvinylpyrroiidone/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred resins for use in the compositions of the present invention include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, and mixtures thereof. Such resins are available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM), a most preferred resin being Luviskol VA64 (PVA/VA 60/40).
  • RTM Luviskol
  • the mass average molecular weight of the hair setting polymer resin is generally in the range from about 2.000 to about 2,000,000.
  • the polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, preferably from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition.
  • the hair conditioning resins hereof must comprise monomers of a cationic character.
  • monomeric units present in the polymers may be referred to as the monomers from which they can be derived.
  • the cationic monomers can be derived from polymerizable cationic starting monomers, or from polymerizable nonionic monomers which are modified subsequent to polymerization to be of cationic character.
  • cationic monomers examples include:
  • (meth)acrylamide derived from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide and a dialkylalkanolamine have C1-C4 alkyl groups such as dimethyiaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylami ⁇ opropyl (meth)acrylate, or dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide; and
  • the cationic unsaturated monomers include amine derivatives of allyl compounds such as diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the like as well as vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers.
  • cationic unsaturated monomers can be polymerized in cationic form, or as an alternative they can be polymerized in the form of their precursors, which are then modified to be cationic, for example, by a quaternizing agent (eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.).
  • a quaternizing agent eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.
  • Preferred cationic monomers include dimethylami ⁇ oethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair conditioning polymers hereof should contain at least about 1%, by weight, cationic monomer, preferably at least about 2%, more preferably at least about 5%.
  • the cationic resins hereof can also contain nonionic monomers including, both high polarity monomers and low polarity monomers.
  • the cationic resins hereof will generally comprise from about 1% to 100% cationic monomers and from 0% to about 99% nonionic monomers, preferably from about 2% to about 75% cationic monomers and from about 25% to about 98% s nonionic monomers, more preferably from about 5% to about 50% cationic monomers and from about 50% to about 95% nonionic monomers.
  • nonionic monomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of C-J-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol,
  • nonionic monomers include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, 1 ,3-butyleneglycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, diacetonacryiamide, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, and the like.
  • acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -meth
  • Preferred nonionic monomers include n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyihexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof. 4/021
  • Representative polar nonionic monomers include acrylamide, N,N- dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, methacrylonitrile, acrylamide, acrylate alcohols (eg. C2-C ⁇ acrylate alcohols such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hdroxyproxyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lacto ⁇ es and vinyl pyridine, allyl alcohols, vinyl alcohols and vinyl caprolactam.
  • acrylate alcohols eg. C2-C ⁇ acrylate alcohols such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hdroxyproxyl acrylate
  • hydroxyethyl methacrylate hydroxypropyl methacrylate
  • vinyl pyrrolidone vinyl ethers, such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lacto
  • Preferred polycationic polymer resins for use herein include cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, especially from alkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkylene imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic guar gums, for example, hydroxyproxyltrimethylammonium guar gum, quatemized cellulose ethers such as copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose with diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride or with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, homopolymers of lower alkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers (e.g.dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate) and copolymers thereof with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or with alkyl methacrylates such as methyl , ethyl, abietyl and oleyl methacrylates and mixtures therof and/or with alkyl acrylates such as methyl and butyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, homopolymers of /021 ⁇ dimethyldiallyl ammonimonium
  • cationic polymers preferred for use herein include hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium guar gum (d.s. of from 0.11 to 0.22) available commercially under the trade names Jaguar C-17(RTM), and also Jaguar C-16(RTM), which contains hydroxypropyl substituents (d.s. of from 0.8-1.1) in addition to the above-specified cationic groups, quatemized cellulose ethers available commercially under the trade names Ucare Polymer JR and Celquat (e.g.
  • Celquat L200 homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride available commercially under the trade name Merquat 100, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide available copolymers commercially under the trade name Merquat 550 and Merquat S, quatemized vinyl pyrrolido ⁇ e/alkylaminoacrylate or methacrylate copolymers commercially under the trade name Gafquat (RTM), and methylvinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers commercially available under the tradename Luviquat(RTM).
  • Merquat 100 copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide available copolymers commercially under the trade name Merquat 550 and Merquat S
  • quatemized vinyl pyrrolido ⁇ e/alkylaminoacrylate or methacrylate copolymers commercially under the trade name Gafquat (RTM
  • amphoteric surfactant is present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 3 %, preferably from about 0.3 % to about 2 % by weight of composition.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants for use herein have the general formula (I)
  • R 1 is an alkyl, alkenyl. or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally interupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide 1 1 moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety
  • R 2 and R 3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyi groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms
  • R 4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkyle ⁇ e of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms
  • Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphonate or sulphate
  • x is 0 or 1
  • n is from about 1 to about 6
  • m is 0 or 1.
  • x is 0 or 1
  • n is from about 1 to about 3
  • Z is carboxylate
  • R 1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
  • Z is carboxylate
  • the formula (I) covers a class of compounds known generally as betaines.
  • betaines useful herein include the high alkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma- carboxypropyl betaine, and lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred betaines for use in the present compositions are coco amidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, and oleyl betaine.
  • a most preferred betaine is coco amidopropyl betaine.
  • amphoteric surfactants for use in the compositions of the invention include:
  • is C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl
  • R2 is hydrogen or CH2Z
  • each Z is independently CO2M or CH2CO2M
  • M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; and/or ammonium derivatives of formula (III)
  • R-j , R2 and Z are as defined above;
  • n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R-j and M are independently selected from the groups specified above;
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are marketed under the trade name Miranol (RTM) and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species.
  • RTM Miranol
  • the Miranols have been described as having the general formula II, although the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure III.
  • CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure III.
  • amphoteric surfactants of type (a) include compounds of formula II and/or III in which R-
  • Z is CO2M and R2 is H; the compounds in which R-
  • materials preferred for use in the present invention include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxy propionic acid, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (otherwise referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate).
  • Specific commercial products include those sold under the trade names of Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60 (Albright & Wilson), Miranol C2M Cone. N.P., Miranol C2M Cone.
  • Miranol C2M SF Miranol CM Special (Miranol, Inc.); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chemicals).
  • amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino /02115
  • Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the present invention are water- soluble and contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.
  • the cationic surfactant has a critical micelle concentration for the pure material (CMC) of greater than 200 ppm measured at 30°C in distilled water.
  • CMC pure material
  • Literature values are taken where possible, especially surface tension or conductimetric values - see Critical Micelle Concentrations of Aqueous Surfactant Systems, P. Mukerjee and K.J. Mysels, NSRDS-NBS 36, (1971).
  • Cationic surfactants materials among those useful herein are disclosed in the following documents: M.C.
  • quaternary ammonium-containing cationic surfactant materials useful herein are those of the general formula (VI):
  • R- 15 wherein R-j is selected from Cg-C20. preferably C10-C15 alkyl, alkenyl and alkaryl groups; each R2 is independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyi and benzyl groups, and X is an a ⁇ io ⁇ selected from halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and alkylsulphate radicals.
  • the aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amido groups.
  • Preferred surfactants of this class include the cetyl trimethyl ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts useful herein are diquaternary ammonium salts, such as those of the formula (VII):
  • Such quaternary ammonium salts include, for example, tallow propane diammonium dichloride.
  • compositions also comprise water or a water/solvent mixture.
  • suitable solvents include lower (e.g. C1-C5) alcohols and polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, ethanol, hexylene glycol, glycerine, propane diols, etc.
  • the mousse compositions of the present invention can also contain a variety of non-essential, optional components such as preservatives, emulsifiers, block polymers, thickeners and viscosity modifiers, fatty alcohols, pH adjusting agents, colouring agents, hair oxidizing agents, hair reducing agents, perfume oils, perfume solubilizing agents, sequestering agents, polymer plasticizing /02115
  • Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to a person skilled in the art, e.g. preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, and DMDM Hyda ⁇ toin; emulsifiers such as a ⁇ ionics (e.g., sodium alkyl sulphate) and nonionics (amine oxides); thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as diethanolamides of long chain fatty acids; block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as Pluronic (RTM) F88 offered by BASF Wyandotte; fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol; viscosity modifiers such as sodium chloride, sodium sulphate, and ethyl alcohol; pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine; colouring agents such as any of the FD & C or D & C dye
  • compositions are dispensed using a manually-actuable, non- aerosol dispenser such as a pump-actuated or compressible dispenser.
  • Compressible, non-aerosol dispenser of the so-called “squeeze-foamer” type comprise a reservoir, a dispensing head, liquid/air mixing means and preferably, homogenizing means and non-return valve means.
  • the above packages do not use any propellant and are therefore safe for the consumer and the environment.
  • the mousse composition is placed in the container reservoir which may for instance, take the form of a plastic squeeze bottle. Squeezing the container reservoir with the hand forces the composition through liquid/air mixing means where the composition is mixed with air and then preferably through a homogenizing means that makes the foam more homogeneous and controls the consistency of the foam. The fpam is then discharged as a uniform, non-pressurized aerated foam through the dispensing head of the dispenser.
  • the minimum force to activate the squeeze foamer is about 1 psig, preferably from about 2 psig to about 15 psig.
  • the minimum force is related to the size of the channels in the dispenser, the viscosity of the composition, etc.
  • the density of the foam should be between about 0.002 and about 0.25 g/cc, preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.07 g/cc.
  • Foam density is inversely related to foam creaminess so lower foam densities are preferred.
  • the mousse compositions herein can also be packaged in a pump-actuated non-aerosol dispenser of the so-called "pump-foamer” type which comprise a reservoir, a dispensing head, pump means, liquid/air mixing means and preferably homogenising means and non-return valve means.
  • a pump-actuated non-aerosol dispenser of the so-called "pump-foamer” type which comprise a reservoir, a dispensing head, pump means, liquid/air mixing means and preferably homogenising means and non-return valve means.
  • the pump foam dispenser comprises a manually actuated, spring-mounted piston tube arranged for reciprocal, up and down movement within a air/liquid cylinder, wherein the piston tube and the upper large diameter part of the cylinder together act as an air pump and wherein the piston tub and the lower, small diameter part of the cylinder together act as a liquid pump.
  • the liquid and air pumps are synchronized by the common piston mechanism.
  • the pumping action is controlled by means of three check valves, a first check valve which regulates entry of liquid from the reservoir into the liquid cylinder, a second check valve which regulates entry of air into the air cylinder, and a third check valve which regulates discharge of liquid from the liquid cylinder to a liquid/air mixing chamber.
  • the liquid/air mixing chamber preferably includes a homogenizing means which makes the generated foam more homogeneous and controls the consistency of the foam. The foam is then discharged as a uniform non-pressurized aerated foam through the dispensing head of the dispenser.
  • the density of the foam should be between about 0.002 and about 0.25 g/cc, preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.07 g/cc.
  • Foam density can be controlled by regulating the air/liquid ratio of the dispenser which is preferably at least 20:1 , more preferably at least 40:1.
  • a preferred method of regulating air/liquid ratio is by preaerati ⁇ g the liquid entering the liquid cylinder, for example, by introducing a small air bleed hole in the dip-tube which connects the liquid cylinder to the liquid reservoir.
  • introducing a 0.6 mm bleed hole at a point approximately 3 mm below the first check valve (ie. above the normal liquid level in the reservoir) increases the air to liquid ratio from approximately 20:1 up to about 50:1.
  • compositions are emitted from the non-aerosol dispenser as a foam which is worked through the hair with the fingers or a hair styling implement and either left on the hair or rinsed out.
  • Hair styling mousse compositions are prepared having the following ingredients (all levels on a weight % active basis):
  • the hair styling mousse compositions of the above examples demonstrate superior foam quality and stability characteristics (good initial foam formation together with foam breakdown under shear) while at the same time being non- sticky and easily spreadable.
  • the compositions also demonstrate excellent hair hold, feel and conditioning.

Abstract

A hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser equipped with a reservoir, dispensing head and liquid/air mixing means, the reservoir containing a hair styling mousse composition comprising a hair setting resin, a polycationic hair conditioning resin, an amphoteric surfactant and water or a water/solvent mixture. The product generates a high quality mousse with good initial foam formation, foam breakdown under shear, non-soapiness, easy spreadibility and non-stickiness.

Description

Hair Cosmetic
Technical Field
The present invention relates to hair styling mousse products. In particular it relates to non-aerosol hair styling mousse products which provide optimum foaming, hair setting, hair feel and hair conditioning characteristics while reducing stickiness and being easily spreadable on the hair.
Background of the Invention
The desire to have hair retain a particular shape or configuration is one that is widely held. It is possible to alter the shape of the hair either permanently or temporarily. Permanent alteration involves the use of chemical agents to react with the hair in order to achieve the desired effect. This process can be carried out at either room or elevated temperature.
The temporary set given to hair is, as the term indicates, a temporary arrangement which can be removed by water or by shampooing. The materials used to provide the set have generally been resins or gums. The temporary set compositions have taken the form of gels, lotions and sprays as well as others. The compositions are applied most often to hair dampened with water, combed or by other means spread through the hair and let dry. The set given will vary depending on the materials used.
In recent years a form of a temporary set has been achieved by means of an aerosol foam - a mousse. The general appeal of mousses can be largely attributed to the ease of application and controlled amount of product which are possible from mousse formulations. Mousse formulations can easily be /02115
worked through the hair and can provide a set comparable to that given by a gel or a lotion. These products are generally applied to the user's hand and worked through the hair.
The conventional hair styling mousse generally utilizes a water soluble polymer, water, possibly a conditioning agent, an emulsifier, aesthetic agents and the propellant. More recently, however, due to an increasing public awareness of the effects of volatile organic compounds, such as aerosol propellants, on the environment, hair styling mousse products have been formulated without a propellant and dispensed from a manually-actuable container so as to be of the non-aerosol type. Unfortunately, however, there are a number of problems associated with non-aerosol products. In particular they provide mousses which are of poor foam quality and stability and which are undesirably sticky. Moreover, many of these formulations are lacking in hair holding, hair feel or hair conditioning characteristics.
It would be desirable to provide a non-aerosol, hair styling mousse product which provides a high quality mousse with the desired combination of good initial foam formation, foam breakdown under shear, non-soapiness and easy spreadability, while at the same time not being too sticky. It would also be desirable to provide a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product with improved foaming quality together with good hold, hair feel and conditioning.
It has now been found that by including an amphoteric surfactant and a water- soluble cationic surfactant in a non-aerosol mousse composition containing certain polymer resins, a mousse is provided which possesses the desired characteristics of good quality foaming, easy spreadability, non-stickiness, hold, feel and conditioning. Accordingly it is an object of the present invention to provide a superior non- aerosol hair styling mousse product by incorporating therein a selected mixture of amphoteric surfactant, water-soluble cationic surfactant and polymer resins.
All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight unless otherwise specified.
Summary of the Invention
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser equipped with a reservoir, spray head and liquid/air mixing means, wherein the reservoir contains a hair-styling mousse composition comprising:
(i) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a nonionic, amphoteric or anionic hair setting polymer resin, and/or
(ii) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin,
(iii) from about 0.1 % to about 3 % by weight of composition of an . amphoteric surfactant,
(iv) from about 0.01 % to about 1 % by weight of composition of a water-soluble cationic surfactant, and 4
(v) water or a water/solvent mixture.
Highly preferred herein are amphoteric surfactants having the formula (I)
R'
R1 [ CONH (CH2 ) n ] χN ( + ) — CH2 (R4 ) mZ ( -)
R ,3-
wherein R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally iπterupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety, R2 and R3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyi groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphoπate or sulphate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or 1.
Detailed Description of the Invention
In accordance with one aspect of the present invention a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product is formed comprising a manually-actuable dispenser containing a reservoir, dispensing head, and liquid/air mixing means, the reservoir comprising a hair styling mousse composition. The present invention also relates to the mousse composition itself and to use thereof in a manually- actuable dispenser.
The hair styling mousse composition of the present invention comprises a nonionic, anionic or amphoteric hair setting polymer resin, and/or a cationic 5 hair conditioning polymer resin, an amphoteric surfactant, a water-soluble cationinc surfactant and water or a water/solvent mixture.
The hair setting polymer resin is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, more preferably from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. Hair setting resins suitable for use herein include any resin soluble or colloidally dispersibie in the aqueous phase (if water is the only solvent in the aqueous phase, the resin should be soluble or dispersibie in water; if an optional cosolvent such as ethanol is present the resin should be soluble or dispersibie in the combined solvent system). Solubility/dispersibility is determined at ambient conditions of temperature and pressure (25°C at 1 At). Resins for use in the compositions of the present invention include anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric resins. Specific resins for use herein include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and methylmethacrylate, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyiacetate, polyvinyl alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, polyvinylpyrroiidone/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferred resins for use in the compositions of the present invention include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, and mixtures thereof. Such resins are available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM), a most preferred resin being Luviskol VA64 (PVA/VA 60/40). The mass average molecular weight of the hair setting polymer resin is generally in the range from about 2.000 to about 2,000,000. The polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, preferably from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. As an essential aspect, the hair conditioning resins hereof must comprise monomers of a cationic character. For convenience in describing the polymers hereof, monomeric units present in the polymers may be referred to as the monomers from which they can be derived. The cationic monomers can be derived from polymerizable cationic starting monomers, or from polymerizable nonionic monomers which are modified subsequent to polymerization to be of cationic character.
Examples of the cationic monomers include:
(i) monomers derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, which is referred to hereinafter collectively as (meth)acrylic acid, and a quaterπarized epihalohydriπ product of a trialkyi amine having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as (methy)acryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and (meth)acryioxypropyltriethylammonium bromide;
(ii) amine derivatives of (meth)acrylic acid or amine derivatives of
(meth)acrylamide derived from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide and a dialkylalkanolamine have C1-C4 alkyl groups such as dimethyiaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylamiπopropyl (meth)acrylate, or dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide; and
(iii) derivatives of the products of the group (ii) above by (1) neutralization with an acid such as hydrochloric acid, or lactic acid, (2) modification with a halogenated alkyl, such as methyl chloride, ethyl chloride, methyl bromide, or ethyl iodide, (3) modification with a halogenated fatty acid ester such as ethyl monochloroacetate, or methyl moπochloropropionate, and (4) modification with a dialkyl sulfate such as dimethyl sulfate, or diethyl sulfate.
Furthermore, the cationic unsaturated monomers include amine derivatives of allyl compounds such as diallyldimethylammonium chloride and the like as well as vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers.
These cationic unsaturated monomers can be polymerized in cationic form, or as an alternative they can be polymerized in the form of their precursors, which are then modified to be cationic, for example, by a quaternizing agent (eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.).
Preferred cationic monomers include dimethylamiπoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers and mixtures thereof.
The hair conditioning polymers hereof should contain at least about 1%, by weight, cationic monomer, preferably at least about 2%, more preferably at least about 5%.The cationic resins hereof can also contain nonionic monomers including, both high polarity monomers and low polarity monomers. The cationic resins hereof will generally comprise from about 1% to 100% cationic monomers and from 0% to about 99% nonionic monomers, preferably from about 2% to about 75% cationic monomers and from about 25% to about 98% s nonionic monomers, more preferably from about 5% to about 50% cationic monomers and from about 50% to about 95% nonionic monomers.
Representative examples nonionic monomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of C-J-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol,
1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 1-peπtanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl- 1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2- methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyM-pentanol, t-butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1- butanol, 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1- hexanol, 3,5-dimethyl-1-hexaπol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-l-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1- dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1 -octadecanol, and the like, the alcohols having from about 1-24 preferably from about 4-18, more preferably from about 4-12 carbon atoms; styrene; chlorostyrene; vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; acrylonitrile; alpha-methylstyrene; t-butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyl toluene; alkoxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, such as methoxy ethyl (meth)acrylate and butoxyethyl (meth)acrylate; and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic monomers include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, 1 ,3-butyleneglycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, diacetonacryiamide, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, and the like.
Preferred nonionic monomers include n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyihexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof. 4/021
Representative polar nonionic monomers include acrylamide, N,N- dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, methacrylonitrile, acrylamide, acrylate alcohols (eg. C2-Cβ acrylate alcohols such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hdroxyproxyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lactoπes and vinyl pyridine, allyl alcohols, vinyl alcohols and vinyl caprolactam.
Preferred polycationic polymer resins for use herein include cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, especially from alkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkylene imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Of these, preferred cationic polymers are cationic guar gums, for example, hydroxyproxyltrimethylammonium guar gum, quatemized cellulose ethers such as copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose with diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride or with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, homopolymers of lower alkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers (e.g.dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate) and copolymers thereof with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or with alkyl methacrylates such as methyl , ethyl, abietyl and oleyl methacrylates and mixtures therof and/or with alkyl acrylates such as methyl and butyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, homopolymers of /021 ιυ dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
By way of exemplification, cationic polymers preferred for use herein include hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium guar gum (d.s. of from 0.11 to 0.22) available commercially under the trade names Jaguar C-17(RTM), and also Jaguar C-16(RTM), which contains hydroxypropyl substituents (d.s. of from 0.8-1.1) in addition to the above-specified cationic groups, quatemized cellulose ethers available commercially under the trade names Ucare Polymer JR and Celquat (e.g. Celquat L200), homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride available commercially under the trade name Merquat 100, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide available copolymers commercially under the trade name Merquat 550 and Merquat S, quatemized vinyl pyrrolidoπe/alkylaminoacrylate or methacrylate copolymers commercially under the trade name Gafquat (RTM), and methylvinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers commercially available under the tradename Luviquat(RTM).
The amphoteric surfactant is present at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 3 %, preferably from about 0.3 % to about 2 % by weight of composition. Suitable amphoteric surfactants for use herein have the general formula (I)
R~
R1 [ CONH ( CH2 ) n ] χN ( + ) — CH2 (R4 ) mZ ( - )
R-
wherein R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl. or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally interupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide 1 1 moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety, R2 and R3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyi groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkyleπe of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphonate or sulphate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or 1. Preferably, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 3, Z is carboxylate, and R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms. When Z is carboxylate, the formula (I) covers a class of compounds known generally as betaines.
Examples of betaines useful herein include the high alkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma- carboxypropyl betaine, and lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Preferred betaines for use in the present compositions are coco amidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, and oleyl betaine. A most preferred betaine is coco amidopropyl betaine.
Other suitable amphoteric surfactants for use in the compositions of the invention include:
(a) imidazoliπium surfactants of formula (II) M
Figure imgf000014_0001
wherein R-| is C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, R2 is hydrogen or CH2Z, each Z is independently CO2M or CH2CO2M, and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; and/or ammonium derivatives of formula (III)
Figure imgf000014_0002
R2
wherein R-j , R2 and Z are as defined above;
(b) aminoalkanoates of formula (IV)
R-| NH(CH2)nC02M
and iminodialkanoates of formula (V)
R1 N[(CH2)mC02M]2
wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R-j and M are independently selected from the groups specified above; and
(c) mixtures thereof. 13
Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are marketed under the trade name Miranol (RTM) and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species. Traditionally, the Miranols have been described as having the general formula II, although the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure III. In practice, a complex mixture of cyclic and non-cyclic species is likely to exist and both definitions are given here for sake of completeness. Preferred for use herein, however, are the non-cyclic species.
Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) include compounds of formula II and/or III in which R-| is CgH*i7 (especially iso-capryl), CgH-jg and
C*ι ι H23 alkyl. Especially preferred are the compounds in which R-| is CgH-jg,
Z is CO2M and R2 is H; the compounds in which R-| is C-| -| H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is CH2CO2M; and the compounds in which R-| is C*| 1 H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is H.
In CTFA nomenclature, materials preferred for use in the present invention include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxy propionic acid, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (otherwise referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate). Specific commercial products include those sold under the trade names of Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60 (Albright & Wilson), Miranol C2M Cone. N.P., Miranol C2M Cone. O.P., Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CM Special (Miranol, Inc.); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chemicals).
Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino /02115
14 propionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid. Such materials are sold under the trade name Deriphat by General Mills and Mirataine by Miranol Inc. Amphoterics preferred for use herein, however, are those of formula II and/or
Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the present invention are water- soluble and contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention. Preferably the cationic surfactant has a critical micelle concentration for the pure material (CMC) of greater than 200 ppm measured at 30°C in distilled water. Literature values are taken where possible, especially surface tension or conductimetric values - see Critical Micelle Concentrations of Aqueous Surfactant Systems, P. Mukerjee and K.J. Mysels, NSRDS-NBS 36, (1971). Cationic surfactants materials among those useful herein are disclosed in the following documents: M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers, (North American edition 1979); Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Iπterscience Publishers, 1949; U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,591 , Hilfer, issued Nov. 3, 1964; U.S. Pat No. 3,929,678, Laughlin, et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975; U.S. Pat No. 3,959,461 , Bailey, et al., issed May 25, 1976; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090, Bolich, Jr., issued June 7, 1983.
Among the quaternary ammonium-containing cationic surfactant materials useful herein are those of the general formula (VI):
R2
N ( + ) — R2 X ( - )
R- 15 wherein R-j is selected from Cg-C20. preferably C10-C15 alkyl, alkenyl and alkaryl groups; each R2 is independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyi and benzyl groups, and X is an aπioπ selected from halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate and alkylsulphate radicals. The aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amido groups. Preferred surfactants of this class include the cetyl trimethyl ammonium halides.
Other quaternary ammonium salts useful herein are diquaternary ammonium salts, such as those of the formula (VII):
Figure imgf000017_0001
R2 R2
wherein R-j , R2 and X are as defined above. Such quaternary ammonium salts include, for example, tallow propane diammonium dichloride.
The compositions also comprise water or a water/solvent mixture. Suitable solvents include lower (e.g. C1-C5) alcohols and polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol, ethanol, hexylene glycol, glycerine, propane diols, etc.
The mousse compositions of the present invention can also contain a variety of non-essential, optional components such as preservatives, emulsifiers, block polymers, thickeners and viscosity modifiers, fatty alcohols, pH adjusting agents, colouring agents, hair oxidizing agents, hair reducing agents, perfume oils, perfume solubilizing agents, sequestering agents, polymer plasticizing /02115
agents and volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids. Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to a person skilled in the art, e.g. preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, and DMDM Hydaπtoin; emulsifiers such as aπionics (e.g., sodium alkyl sulphate) and nonionics (amine oxides); thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as diethanolamides of long chain fatty acids; block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as Pluronic (RTM) F88 offered by BASF Wyandotte; fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol; viscosity modifiers such as sodium chloride, sodium sulphate, and ethyl alcohol; pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine; colouring agents such as any of the FD & C or D & C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate salts and persulphate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfume oils such as Florasynth (RTM) perfumes; perfume oil solubilizers such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; sequestering agents such as ethylenediamine tetraacteic acid; and, among many other agents, polymer plasticizing agents such as glycerin and propylene glycol. These optional materials can be present at a level of from about 0.01 % to about 10 %, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 5 % by weight of composition.
The mousse compositions are dispensed using a manually-actuable, non- aerosol dispenser such as a pump-actuated or compressible dispenser. Compressible, non-aerosol dispenser of the so-called "squeeze-foamer" type comprise a reservoir, a dispensing head, liquid/air mixing means and preferably, homogenizing means and non-return valve means.
Squeeze foamer packages are well known as exemplified by the disclosures in the following patents: US-A-3,709,437 (Wright, issued January 9th, 1973);
US-A-3,937,364 (Wright, issued February 10th, 1976);
US-A-4,022,351 (Wright, issued May 10th, 1977);
US-A-4, 147,306 (Bennett, issued April 3rd, 1979);
US-A-4, 184,615 (Wright, issued January 22nd, 1980);
US-A-4,598,862 (Rice, issued July 8th, 1986);
US-A-4,615,467 (Grogan et al., issued October 7th, 1986); and FR-A-2,604,622 (Verlhulst, published April 8th, 1988).
The above packages do not use any propellant and are therefore safe for the consumer and the environment. The mousse composition is placed in the container reservoir which may for instance, take the form of a plastic squeeze bottle. Squeezing the container reservoir with the hand forces the composition through liquid/air mixing means where the composition is mixed with air and then preferably through a homogenizing means that makes the foam more homogeneous and controls the consistency of the foam. The fpam is then discharged as a uniform, non-pressurized aerated foam through the dispensing head of the dispenser.
The minimum force to activate the squeeze foamer is about 1 psig, preferably from about 2 psig to about 15 psig. The minimum force is related to the size of the channels in the dispenser, the viscosity of the composition, etc. In general, the density of the foam should be between about 0.002 and about 0.25 g/cc, preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.07 g/cc. Foam density is inversely related to foam creaminess so lower foam densities are preferred. i The mousse compositions herein can also be packaged in a pump-actuated non-aerosol dispenser of the so-called "pump-foamer" type which comprise a reservoir, a dispensing head, pump means, liquid/air mixing means and preferably homogenising means and non-return valve means.
Highly preferred for use herein is a pump foamer pack as described in Japanese Utility Model 1-66900. In brief, the pump foam dispenser comprises a manually actuated, spring-mounted piston tube arranged for reciprocal, up and down movement within a air/liquid cylinder, wherein the piston tube and the upper large diameter part of the cylinder together act as an air pump and wherein the piston tub and the lower, small diameter part of the cylinder together act as a liquid pump. The liquid and air pumps are synchronized by the common piston mechanism. The pumping action is controlled by means of three check valves, a first check valve which regulates entry of liquid from the reservoir into the liquid cylinder, a second check valve which regulates entry of air into the air cylinder, and a third check valve which regulates discharge of liquid from the liquid cylinder to a liquid/air mixing chamber. The liquid/air mixing chamber preferably includes a homogenizing means which makes the generated foam more homogeneous and controls the consistency of the foam. The foam is then discharged as a uniform non-pressurized aerated foam through the dispensing head of the dispenser.
In general, the density of the foam should be between about 0.002 and about 0.25 g/cc, preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.07 g/cc. Foam density can be controlled by regulating the air/liquid ratio of the dispenser which is preferably at least 20:1 , more preferably at least 40:1. A preferred method of regulating air/liquid ratio is by preaeratiπg the liquid entering the liquid cylinder, for example, by introducing a small air bleed hole in the dip-tube which connects the liquid cylinder to the liquid reservoir. Thus, introducing a 0.6 mm bleed hole at a point approximately 3 mm below the first check valve (ie. above the normal liquid level in the reservoir) increases the air to liquid ratio from approximately 20:1 up to about 50:1.
The present compositions are emitted from the non-aerosol dispenser as a foam which is worked through the hair with the fingers or a hair styling implement and either left on the hair or rinsed out.
20
The present invention is illustrated by the following examples.
Examples l-V
Hair styling mousse compositions are prepared having the following ingredients (all levels on a weight % active basis):
Figure imgf000022_0001
1 - Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer supplied by BASF
2 - Vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymer supplied by BASF as a 40% solution
3 - Cocamidopropylbetaine supplied by Goldschmidt as a 30% solution
The hair styling mousse compositions of the above examples demonstrate superior foam quality and stability characteristics (good initial foam formation together with foam breakdown under shear) while at the same time being non- sticky and easily spreadable. The compositions also demonstrate excellent hair hold, feel and conditioning.

Claims

21Claims
1. A hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser equipped with a reservoir, dispensing head and liquid/air mixing means, wherein the reservoir contains a hair-styling mousse composition comprising:
i) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a nonionic, amphoteric or aπioπic hair setting polymer resin, and/or
ii) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin,
iii) from about 0.1 % to about 3 % by weight of composition of an amphoteric surfactant,
(iv) from about 0.01 % to about 1 % by weight fo composition of a water-soluble cationic surfactant, and
(v) water or a water/solvent mixture.
2. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 1 wherein the amphoteric surfactant has the formula (I):
R~
R1 [ CONH ( CH2 ) n ] χN ( + ) — CH2 (R4 ) mZ ( - )
R- /02115
wherein R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally iπterupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety, R2 and R3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyi groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphoπate or sulphate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or 1.
3. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 1 or 2 wherein the hair setting polymer resin is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and methyimethacrylate, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate, polyvinyl alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, polyvinylpyrrolidone/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylamiπoethyl methacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
4. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 3 wherein the hair setting polymer resin is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
5. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 2 wherein in formula (I) x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 3, Z is carboxylate, and R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyi radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
6. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 5 wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, 23 cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2- hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, and lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
7. A hair styling mousse according to Claim 6 wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine and oleyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
8. A hair styling mousse according to any of Claims 1 to 7 wherin the polycationic hair conditioning resin is selected from cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, polyalkylene imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
9. A hair styling mousse product according to any of Claims 1 to 8 wherein the hair setting polymer resin and the polycationic conditioning resin are each present at a level of from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition.
10. A hair styling mousse product according to Claim 9 wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present at a level of from about 0.3 % to about 2 % by weight of composition.
11. A hair styling mousse product according to any of Claims 1 to 9 wherein the manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser is selected from pump-actuated and compressible dispensers.
12. A hair styling mousse composition comprising:
i) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a nonionic, amphoteric or anionic hair setting polymer resin, and/or
ii) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin,
iii) from about 0.1 % to about 3 % by weight of composition of an amphoteric surfactant,
(iv) from about 0.01 % to about 1 % by weight fo composition of a water-soluble cationic surfactant, and
(v) water or a water/solvent mixture.
PCT/US1993/006085 1992-07-17 1993-06-28 Hair cosmetic WO1994002115A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP6504473A JPH08512018A (en) 1992-07-17 1993-06-28 Hair cosmetics
EP93916772A EP0650351A4 (en) 1992-07-17 1993-06-28 Hair cosmetic.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9215210.7 1992-07-17
GB929215210A GB9215210D0 (en) 1992-07-17 1992-07-17 Hair cosmetic

Publications (1)

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WO1994002115A1 true WO1994002115A1 (en) 1994-02-03

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EP (1) EP0650351A4 (en)
JP (1) JPH08512018A (en)
CA (1) CA2140251A1 (en)
GB (1) GB9215210D0 (en)
WO (1) WO1994002115A1 (en)

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0636357A1 (en) * 1993-07-31 1995-02-01 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Hair treatment agent and process for its use
EP0676189A2 (en) * 1994-03-11 1995-10-11 Colgate-Palmolive Company Mousse-forming compositions upon discharge from air powered, non-aerosol pump and spray dispensers, and articles comprising combinations thereof
FR2719216A1 (en) * 1994-05-02 1995-11-03 Oreal Composition for the treatment and protection of hair based on ceramides and vinylpyrrolidone polymers.
EP0685219A2 (en) * 1994-06-03 1995-12-06 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Hair treatment agent and process for its use
EP0715843A1 (en) 1994-12-07 1996-06-12 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Quaternized copolymers as agents in cosmetic preparations for hair styling aid
WO1999025311A1 (en) * 1997-11-14 1999-05-27 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Propellant-gas-free pump sprays and pump mousses
WO1999027900A1 (en) * 1997-11-28 1999-06-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Use of polyethylene imines for improving the mechanical properties of keratinous fibres
US6017860A (en) * 1996-04-15 2000-01-25 Stepan Company Cleaning, conditioning and styling hair care compositions
WO2002080727A2 (en) * 2001-04-07 2002-10-17 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Cosmetic towels for hair care
WO2004058199A1 (en) * 2002-12-23 2004-07-15 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation containing carbamate-substituted saccharides and cationic conditioners
EP2338460A1 (en) * 2009-09-03 2011-06-29 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Permanent wave system

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US4009256A (en) * 1973-11-19 1977-02-22 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Novel shampoo composition containing a water-soluble cationic polymer
US4184615A (en) * 1975-04-03 1980-01-22 Wright Hershel E Foam dispensing device
US4638822A (en) * 1982-07-21 1987-01-27 L'oreal Hair-setting process
US4871530A (en) * 1986-03-19 1989-10-03 L'oreal Aqueous delayed-foaming cosmetic composition for hair and skin treatment

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Cited By (19)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0636357A1 (en) * 1993-07-31 1995-02-01 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Hair treatment agent and process for its use
EP0676189A2 (en) * 1994-03-11 1995-10-11 Colgate-Palmolive Company Mousse-forming compositions upon discharge from air powered, non-aerosol pump and spray dispensers, and articles comprising combinations thereof
EP0676189A3 (en) * 1994-03-11 1998-03-11 Colgate-Palmolive Company Mousse-forming compositions upon discharge from air powered, non-aerosol pump and spray dispensers, and articles comprising combinations thereof
US5558859A (en) * 1994-05-02 1996-09-24 L'oreal Composition for the treatment and protection of the exoskeletal parts based on ceramides and vinylpyrrolidone polymers
FR2719216A1 (en) * 1994-05-02 1995-11-03 Oreal Composition for the treatment and protection of hair based on ceramides and vinylpyrrolidone polymers.
EP0680743A1 (en) * 1994-05-02 1995-11-08 L'oreal Composition for protecting and treating hair, eyelashes and eyebrows based on ceradides and vinylpyrrolidone polymers
CN1070361C (en) * 1994-05-02 2001-09-05 莱雅公司 Composition for treatment and protection of keratinous and vinylpyrrolidone polymers
EP0685219A2 (en) * 1994-06-03 1995-12-06 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Hair treatment agent and process for its use
EP0685219A3 (en) * 1994-06-03 1996-08-28 Wella Ag Hair treatment agent and process for its use.
US5869032A (en) * 1994-12-07 1999-02-09 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Quaternized copolymers suitable as active ingredients in cosmetic formulations, such as hair styling compositions
EP0715843A1 (en) 1994-12-07 1996-06-12 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Quaternized copolymers as agents in cosmetic preparations for hair styling aid
US6017860A (en) * 1996-04-15 2000-01-25 Stepan Company Cleaning, conditioning and styling hair care compositions
WO1999025311A1 (en) * 1997-11-14 1999-05-27 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Propellant-gas-free pump sprays and pump mousses
US6482394B1 (en) 1997-11-14 2002-11-19 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Propellantless pump sprays and pump foams containing an anionic copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate
WO1999027900A1 (en) * 1997-11-28 1999-06-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Use of polyethylene imines for improving the mechanical properties of keratinous fibres
WO2002080727A2 (en) * 2001-04-07 2002-10-17 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Cosmetic towels for hair care
WO2002080727A3 (en) * 2001-04-07 2003-03-20 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Cosmetic towels for hair care
WO2004058199A1 (en) * 2002-12-23 2004-07-15 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation containing carbamate-substituted saccharides and cationic conditioners
EP2338460A1 (en) * 2009-09-03 2011-06-29 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Permanent wave system

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0650351A1 (en) 1995-05-03
EP0650351A4 (en) 1996-03-27
GB9215210D0 (en) 1992-09-02
CA2140251A1 (en) 1994-02-03
JPH08512018A (en) 1996-12-17

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