WO1996000565A1

WO1996000565A1 - Hair fixing agent

Info

Publication number: WO1996000565A1
Application number: PCT/EP1995/001728
Authority: WO
Inventors: Günther LANG; Wolfgang Keil; Michael Franzke; Harald Wendel
Original assignee: Wella Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date: 1994-06-28
Filing date: 1995-05-06
Publication date: 1996-01-11
Also published as: JPH09502456A; BR9506005A; ES2087054T1; DE4422593A1; EP0715513A1

Abstract

An aqueous, alcohol or aqueous-alcohol based hair fixing agent containing: (A) 0.1 to 20 wt.% of 50 to 100 % neutralised shellac and (B) 0.1 to 20 wt.% of hydroxypropyl chitosane, hydroxybutyl chitosane, hydroxypropyl cellulose and/or hydroxybutyl cellulose. As it leaves little residue, the agent of the invention does not damage the hair and gives it a good gloss. Besides facilitating styling, the agent holds well after the hair has been washed. It is easily sprayed and resists atmospheric humidity. It is also distinguished by comparatively short drying times.

Description

Means for setting the hair

The invention relates to an agent for setting the hair on an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic basis, which contains 50 to 100 percent neutralized shellac in combination with hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxybutylchitosan, hydroxypropylcellulose and / or hydroxybutylcellulose.

The temporary reshaping of the hair is generally based on the use of hair-setting agents, the essential component of which are solutions of film-forming natural or synthetic polymers. Examples of synthetic polymers are anionic polymers such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamides and copolymers based on alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic acid monoalkyl esters, amphoteric polymers such as copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylate and butylaminoethyl methacrylate and nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate.

Synthetic hair-fixing polymers are preferred by radical polymerization of monomeric petro- chemical products, i.e. from non-renewable raw materials. In addition, synthetic polymers can contain contaminants from monomers, polymerization stoppers and polymerization regulators, which can be toxicologically unsafe.

Natural polymers do not have the disadvantages of synthetic polymers described above. The most suitable natural hair-setting polymers are Schel varnish, polysaccharides or derivatives of polysaccharides, in particular cellulose derivatives, chitosan or chitosan derivatives.

Hair fixatives, the hair-setting effect of which is based on shellac as a film-forming agent, generally adhere strongly to the hair, making the hair difficult to style. In addition, such hair fixatives leave residues on the hair which are difficult to remove.

Hair-setting agents containing polysaccharides are generally difficult to spray due to the thickening effect of polysaccharides. Furthermore, these agents have the disadvantage that when combing out the hair, dandruff formation and the formation of a gray coating on the hair can occur.

Polymers suitable for use in hair setting agents must have a multitude of properties. For example, they have to Dissolve alcohols and alcohol-water mixtures well and be contracted with the commonly used aerosol propellants.

Furthermore, you must form a clear, shiny film on the hair and give the hair a firm and at the same time flexible hold without impairing the natural feel of the hair. Furthermore, these polymers have to be resistant to atmospheric moisture so that their setting properties are retained even at high atmospheric humidity and the hair does not feel sticky.

A general problem with setting products is the durability of the hairstyles created with them. For example, washing the hair loses the setting effect of the products.

Although a large number of natural synthetic polymers with different properties are known, it has not hitherto been possible to provide a hair-setting agent which has all the properties - especially with regard to the setting effect beyond washing hair, sprayability , the drying time and the resistance to humidity - is satisfactory.

The object was therefore to provide a means for setting the hair that does not have the disadvantages of the previously known means. The middle is said to make the hair easy to style, to give the hair shine and to ensure good hair strengthening beyond washing. Furthermore, with good sprayability and resistance to atmospheric humidity, it should dry quickly and act less stressfully on the hair.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that the combination of partially or completely neutralized shellac with hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxybutylchitosan, hydroxypropylcellulose or hydroxybutylcellulose gives an agent for strengthening the hair which fulfills the requirements set in an excellent manner.

The present invention therefore relates to an agent for setting the hair on an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic basis, which is characterized in that it

(A) 0.1 to 20 percent by weight to 50 to 100 percent neutralized shellac

and

(B) 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxybutylchitosan, hydroxypropylcellulose and / or hydroxybutylcellulose

contains. The hair fixative preferably contains component (A) in an amount of 0.5 to 10 percent by weight. As shellac component (A) can handels¬ conventional shellac, such as the commercial product shellac MHP210 ^® from Pennig, Hamburg / Germany, are used.

To neutralize the shellac, the organic or inorganic bases customary in cosmetics, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amines, amino alcohols, alkali metal hydroxides or ammonia in the form of aqueous ammonia solutions, can be used. Preferred neutralizing agents are 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triisopropanolamine, sodium hydroxide or ammonia as an aqueous ammonia solution.

In addition, partial neutralization of the shellac is possible by means of the hydroxypropylchitosan and / or hydroxybutylchitosan used in the agent.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains hydroxypropylchitosan or hydroxybutylchitosan with a degree of propoxylation or butoxylation of 1.0 to 5.0 with a ratio of N / O substitution of 99: 1 to 1:99 and an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 10 up to 150 ml per gram (1 percent solution in 0.2 mol acetic acid and 0.1 mol sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius). A hydroxypropylchitosan or hydroxybutylchitosan with a degree of propoxylation or Degree of butoxylation from 1.5 to 3.0 with a N / O substitution ratio of 95: 5 to 40:60 and an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 25 to 80 ml per gram.

Suitable hydroxypropylchitosans are listed for example in EP-PS 0 224 045; Suitable Hydroxy¬ butylchitosane are described for example in EP-PS 0 243 822.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxybutyl cellulose with a degree of propoxylation or butoxylation of 2.0 to 4.0 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.1 to 25 mm ² per second, measured with an Ubbelohde viscometer type 501 103 (capillary 2) at 20 degrees Celsius, 3 percent solution in 96 percent ethanol. A hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxybutyl cellulose with a degree of propoxylation or degree of butoxylation of 2.3 to 3.8 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.2 to 12 mm ² per second is particularly preferred. Suitable hydroxypropyl include the commercial products Nisso HPC ^® Nippon Soda, Tokyo, Japan or Klucel ^® EF Aqualon, Dusseldorf, Germany.

The agent for setting the hair preferably contains component (B) in an amount of 0.5 to 10 percent by weight. The agent according to the invention can be in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution.

Suitable alcohols are, in particular, the lower alcohols with 1 to 5 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, the boiling point of which is below 300 ° Celsius; alcohols with 1 to 3 carbon atoms are particularly preferred.

The agent according to the invention for setting the hair can be filled with a propellant in a pressure vessel and sprayed as an aerosol or foam. It can also be in the form of a non-aerosol hairspray, non-aerosol foam or non-aerosol hair lacquer that can be sprayed with the aid of a suitable mechanically operated spraying device.

Mechanical spraying devices are to be understood as devices which enable the spraying of a liquid without using a liquefied propellant. A suitable mechanical spray device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, into which the above-described cosmetic agent is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent expands as a result of the contraction of the elastic one Can be removed continuously when opening the spray valve. If the agent according to the invention is in the form of an aerosol hairspray, aerosol foam or aerosol hair lacquer, then it additionally contains 2 to 80 percent by weight of a propellant and is filled into a pressure container. Easily volatile chlorofluorocarbons, such as, for example, difluorochloromethane or trichloromonofluoromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane or lower alkanes, such as, for example, n-butane, i-butane and propane, or also dimethyl ether, and also gaseous at the pressures under consideration are examples of blowing agents Blowing agents, such as N ₂ , N ₂ 0 and C0 ₂ , and mixtures of the above-mentioned compounds are suitable. Among the blowing agents mentioned above, dimethyl ether and mixtures of lower alkanes with dimethyl ether are preferred, the use of dimethyl ether as blowing agent being particularly preferred.

The composition according to the invention for hair fixatives can furthermore contain customary cosmetic additives, such as, for example, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-anionic wetting agents and emulsifiers, such as, for example, d ₂ - to C -. _8- alkyl ether sulfates, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, alkylpyridinium salts, carboxy derivatives of imidazole, N-alkylsulfobetaine or polyglyceryl ethers of saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols and alkylphenols, in an amount of about 0.01 to 3 percent by weight, and also preservatives, such as, for example, salicylic acid or mandelic acid in an amount of 0.01 to 0.7 percent by weight and anti-dandruff active ingredients, such as zinc pyridinchion, cosmetic dyes, such as, for example, fluorescein sodium salt, furthermore hair care active ingredients, such as, for example, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides , Lanolin derivatives or pantothenic acid, in an amount of about 0.01 to 3 percent by weight, hydrophobic substances such as silicone oils, for example polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes or cyclomethicones; Plasticizers such as phthalic acid esters or alkyl citrates and combability-improving substances such as, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or cationic polymers, for example cationic chitosan or cellulose derivatives, in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2 percent by weight and also complexing agents, foam stabilizers, buffer substances, light protection agents medium or perfume oils in an amount of about 0.01 to 0.8 percent by weight.

The agent for strengthening the hair according to the invention can optionally dye or tone the hair at the same time through a content of cosmetic dyes. Such preparations are known in the trade, inter alia, as color fixers or tinting fixers. They additionally contain customary cosmetic dyes known for hair fixatives, for example aromatic nitro dyes such as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, picramic acid, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4, which are known to be hair-absorbing -nitrobenzene and 1,4-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitro-5-chlorobenzene, azo dyes, such as for example Acid Brown 4 (CI 14 805), anthraquinone dyes, such as, for example, Disperse Violet 4 (CI 61 105) or triphenylmethane dyes, such as, for example, Basic Violet I (CI 42 535), the dyes of these classes depending on the nature of their substituents, they can have an acidic, nonionic or basic character. The total concentration of these dyes is usually about 0.01 to 2.0 percent by weight.

The agent according to the invention has a low residue on the hair and does not give the hair a high shine. In addition to good hairdosability, the agent brings about lasting strengthening beyond washing the hair. The agent is easy to spray and resistant to atmospheric moisture. The agent is also characterized by comparatively shorter drying times.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail:

Examples Example 1: Non-aerosol hairspray with normal setting

2.0 g shellac

1.5 g hydroxypropylchitosan (degree of propoxylation

N: 1.84, 0: 0.39, η = 50.4 ml / g, 1 percent solution in 0.2 mol of acetic acid and 0.1 mol of sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius produced according to EP-PS 0 224 045)

2.8 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution

0.2 g perfume 89.9 g ethanol

3.6 g water 100.0 g

Example 2: Non-aerosol hairspray with normal setting

1.9 g shellac

1.7 g hydroxybutylchitosan (degree of butoxylation

N: 1.98, O: 0.56 η = 78.3 ml / g, 1 percent

Solution in 0.2 mol acetic acid and 0.1 mol

Sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius, manufactured according to EP-PS 0 243 822)

2.6 g of sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution

0.2 g perf

89.0 g ethanol

4.6 g of water

100.0 g 12

Example 3: Non-aerosol hairspray for fine hair

2.3 g shellac

1.0 g hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel EF ^® der

Aqualon company)

3.2 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution

0.2 g perfume

90.0 g ethanol

3.3 g water

100.0 g

Example 4: Non-aerosol hairspray with strong setting

3.5 g shellac

3.0 g hydroxypropylchitosan (degree of propoxylation

N: 1.84, O: 0.39 η = 50.4 ml / g, 1 percent solution in 0.2 mol acetic acid and 0.1 mol sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius, manufactured according to EP-PS 0 224 045)

4.9 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution

0.2 g perfume

86.0 g of ethanol

2.4 g water

100.0 g Example 5: Aerosol hairspray for normal hold

(80% VOC)

1.50 g shellac

1.50 g hydroxypropylchitosan (degree of propoxylation

N: 1.84, O: 0.39 η = 50.4 ml / g, 1 percent solution in 0.2 mol acetic acid and 0.1 mol sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius, manufactured according to EP-PS 0 224 045) 2.00 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution 0.15 g perfume 22.40 g ethanol 22.45 g water 50.00 g dimethyl ether 100.00 g

Example 6: Spray fixer with birch extract

1.20 g shellac

1.10 g hydroxypropylchitosan (degree of propoxylation

N: 1.84, O: 0.39 η = 50.4 ml / g 1 percent solution in 0.2 mol acetic acid and 0.1 mol sodium chloride at 20 degrees Celsius, manufactured according to EP-PS 0 224 045)

1.70 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution

0.15 g perfume

0.10 g cationic cellulose derivative according to U.S. Patent 3,472,840

0.30 g birch extract, for example Extrapon® birch from Dragoco, Holzminden, Germany 15.00 g ethanol 80.45 g water 100.00 g

Example 7: Firming mousse for a strong hold

1.5 g shellac

2.5 g hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel EE * der

Aqualon company) 2.1 g sodium hydroxide, IN aqueous solution 0.1 g perfume 1.0 g with 20 mol ethylene oxide oxyethylated

Cetylstearyl alcohol 8.0 g ethanol 84, 8 g water 100.0 g Example 8: Tint fixer

1.00 g shellac

1.50 g hydroxypropyl cellulose (e.g. Klucel EF ^® der

Aqualon company) 1.40 g sodium hydroxide, 0.15 g perfume in aqueous solution

0.05 g Acid Brown 4 (C.I. 14 805) 0.15 g oxethylated with 35 mol ethylene oxide

Castor oil 8.00 g ethanol 87.75 g water 100.00 g

Claims

Patent claims

1. Means for setting the hair on an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic basis, characterized in that it

(A) 0.1 to 20 percent by weight to 50 to 100 percent neutralized shellac

and

(B) 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxybutylchitosan, hydroxypropyl cellulose and / or hydroxyl butyl cellulose

contains.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is 0.5 to 10 weight percent of the component

(A) contains.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized gekenn¬ characterized in that the hydroxypropylchitosan has a degree of propoxylation of 1.0 to 5.0 with a ratio of N / O substitution of 99: 1 to 1:99 and an intrinsic viscosity (η) from 10 to 150 ml per gram.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the hydroxybutylchitosan has a degree of butoxylation of 1.0 to 5.0, with a ratio of the N / O substitution of 99: 1 to 1:99 and an intrinsic viscosity (η) from 10 to 150 ml per gram.

5. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hydroxypropylchitosan has a degree of propoxylation of 1.5 to 3.0, with a ratio of the N / O substitution of 95: 5 to 40:60, and an intrinsic viscosity ( η) from 25 to

80 ml per gram.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydroxybutylchitosan has a degree of butoxylation of 1.5 to 3.0, with a ratio of the N / O substitution of 95: 5 to 40:60, and an intrinsic viscosity ( η) from 25 to

80 ml per gram.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains 0.5 to 10 percent by weight of component (B).

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydroxypropyl cellulose has a degree of propoxylation of 2 to 4 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.1 to 25 mm ² per second.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the hydroxybutyl cellulose has a degree of butoxylation of 2 to 4 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.1 to 25 mm ² per second.

10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the hydroxypropyl cellulose has a degree of propoxylation of 2.3 to 3.8 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.2 to 12 mm ² per second.

11. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the hydroxybutyl cellulose has a degree of butoxylation of 2.3 to 3.8 and a kinematic viscosity of 0.2 to 12 mm ² per second.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the neutralizing agent for shellac is selected from primary, secondary or tertiary amines, amino alcohols, alkali metal hydroxides and ammonia.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the neutralizing agent for shellac is ammonia, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, tri-isopropanolamine or sodium hydroxide.