WO1991016486A1

WO1991016486A1 - Method for positioning a continuous ring of strip material in a hem around a garment opening and apparatus for use therein

Info

Publication number: WO1991016486A1
Application number: PCT/GB1991/000621
Authority: WO
Inventors: Peter William Easom
Original assignee: Automatic Braiding Limited
Priority date: 1990-04-21
Filing date: 1991-04-19
Publication date: 1991-10-31
Also published as: AU7659091A

Abstract

Apparatus and method for enclosing a continuous ring of elastic strip material (28) in a hem around a garment opening e.g. a waistband comprises support means (22, 40) for supporting the tensioned ring, first folder (50), a second folder (56) movable between an operative and retracted position, and means (32, 34) for moving a first portion (22) of the support to present the ring (28) to the first folder (50) as the second folder (56) is retracted to effect a first fold around the leading edge (74) of the ring (28) and means (68, 66) for moving the second folder (56) to its operative position to position the ring (28) in the garment hem. The initial part of the hem region and ring (28) are fed to a sewing machine (12) to secure the ring (28). Continuing feed of the hem region and ring (28) to the sewing machine (12) progressively folds the remainder of the hem region round the ring (28) as they pass the folders (50, 56), forming an elasticated hem.

Description

ETHOD FOR POSITIONING A CONTINUOUS RING OF STRIP MATERIAL IN A HEM AROUND A GARMENT OPENING AND APPARATUS FOR USE THEREIN

This invention is concerned with a method and apparatus for positioning a continuous ring of strip material e.g. elastic strip material in a hem around a garment opening, for example a garment waistband.

A continuous ring of elastic strip material commonly formed by cutting a length of elastic strip material and joining the ends together, is commonly included in a garment opening to elasticate the opening. Commonly, such a method is used to produce an elasticated waistband but may be used for other garment openings for example the neck region or the cuffs of sleeves of garments. It is a highly skilled operation to correctly position the ring of elastic material and the hem region of the garment material, to form the hem by folding the hem region of the garment material around the ring of elastic material, and to present the assembly to suitable means for securing the hem and elastic ring, for example a sewing machine.

One of the various objects of the present invention is to provide an improved apparatus for positioning a continuous ring of strip material in the hem around a garment opening. Another of the various objects of the present invention is to provide an improved method for positioning a continuous ring of strip material in the hem around the garment opening.

In one aspect the invention may be considered to provide apparatus for positioning a continuous ring of strip material in a hem around a garment opening comprising support means for supporting the ring in a tensioned condition with a hem region of the garment material disposed outwardly of the elastic ring, first folding instrumentalities adapted to fold a first hem portion of the garment around a leading edge of an elastic ring supported by the support means, second folding instrumentalities mounted for movement between a first retracted, position and a second, operative position, means for moving a first portion of the support means to present a ring and garment so supported to the first folding instrumentalities whilst the second folding instrumentalities are in the retracted position whereby to fold an initial part of the first hem portion around the leading edge of the elastic ring, and means for moving the second folding instrumentalities to their operative position after said movement of the first portion of the support means whereby to locate the ring in the garment hem, the construction and arrangement being such that after the initial part of the hem region has been folded the initial part can be fed to means for securing the hem region to secure the elastic ring in the hem of the garment while the second folding instrumentalities remain in their operative position, said feeding movement of the ring and hem region causing the folding instrumentalities to effect folding of the remainder of the hem region around the elastic ring as the folded hem region is fed to the means for securing the hem region.

Preferably the second folding instrumentalities are adapted to fold a leading end portion of the first hem portion around the trailing edge of the elastic ring whereby to enclose the ring in the garment hem.

Preferably the support means of apparatus in accordance with the invention comprises first and second portions, the apparatus comprising means for effecting relative movement between the first and second portions of the support means whereby to transfer a ring and hem region of garment material from the first portion to the second portion in the operation of the apparatus. Conveniently the means for moving the first portion of the support means is arranged to retract the first portion away from the first folding instrumentalities after a ring and hem region have been transferred to the second portion of the support means in the operation of the illustrative apparatus.

Preferably the first portion of the support means comprises location means e.g. location grooves, for locating an elastic ring in the desired position on said first portion. Preferably in apparatus in accordance with the invention the second folding instrumentalities are mounted for pivotal movement between the retracted position in which they are disposed out of the path of movement of a ring supported by the first portion of the support means to an intermediate position from which they are moved linearly towards the first folding instrumentalities into the operative position.

In one embodiment of the invention the second folding instrumentalities comprise a first folding element and at least one duct positioned to expel a jet of air to facilitate folding of the hem region in effecting a second fold of the hem region around the trailing edge of the elastic ring.

Preferably apparatus in accordance with the invention further comprises at least one duct positioned adjacent the support means to direct air, in the operation of the apparatus, towards the hem region of the garment supported by the first portion of the support means whereby to facilitate folding of the hem region around the leading edge of the ring, in effecting a first fold of the hem region.

Preferably apparatus in accordance with the invention comprises means for securing the hem region conveniently provided by a sewing machine. In another aspect the invention may be considered to provide a method of positioning a continuous ring of elastic strip material in a hem around a garment opening comprising supporting the ring in an extended condition with a hem region of the garment material disposed outwardly of the elastic ring, presenting an initial part of the ring-hem region to first folding instrumentalities whereby to effect a fold a first hem portion of the garment around the leading edge of the elastic ring, thereafter moving second folding instrumentalities from a retracted position to an operative position whereby to locate the elastic ring in the garment hem, and thereafter feeding the said initial part of the hem region to securing means for securing the hem and the ring therein thus to secure the ring and hem, and continuing to feed the hem region to said securing means whereby to progressively fold the remainder of the hem region round the elastic ring as they pass the folding instrumentalities.

There now follows a detailed description, to be read with reference to the accompanying drawings, of apparatus and a method embodying the invention. It will be realised that this apparatus and method have been selected for description to illustrate the invention by way of example.

In the accompanying drawings:- Figure 1 is a perspective view showing apparatus embodying the invention;

Figure 2 is a diagrammatic plan view showing parts of the illustrative apparatus;

Figures 3 to 5 are schematic views showing part of the operation of the illustrative apparatus; and

Figure 6 is a diagrammatic plan view of part of the apparatus showing folding instrumentalities.

The illustrative apparatus comprises an attachment 10 for a standard sewing machine 12. The sewing machine 12 comprises a feed table 14, feed rolls 16, 17 and a presser foot 18 and is of known construction. The illustrative attachment 10 comprises a frame 20 which is secured to a frame of the sewing machine 12 at a side of the sewing machine remote from the feed rolls 16, 17.

The feed roll 17 is freely rotatable. The feed roll 16 is mounted on a support 19 which can be moved up and down to move the rolls 16 and 17 into and out of feeding engagement by a pneumatic piston and cylinder motor 21. The feed roll 16 can be rotated in a direction (see arrows Y) to feed material through the sewing machine 12 from the folding instrumentalities 50, 56 by a reciprocating pneumatic piston and cylinder motor 23 driving the roll 16 through a one way sprag clutch (not shown) of known const, _^ction, or by a reciprocating drive means (not shown) linked with the reciprocating drive (not shown) of the sewing needles in the sewing machine 12, so that the feed roll 16 can be rotated independently of the sewing machine 12 by the motor 23, or in synchronism with the sewing machine feed.

A sprung wire arm 25 is mounted on the presser foot 18, upstream of the foot 18 considered in the feed direction and arranged to bear on material being fed to the foot 18 in use to smoothe the fabric as it is fed to the foot.

The attachment comprises support means comprising a first portion 22 comprising four support arms 24 having parallel outer end portions and inner end portions which diverge from the front to the outer end portions which are directed towards the rear of the apparatus. The arms 24 are provided at outer ends with grooves 26 by which a ring of elastic 28 is located on the arms 24 and can be maintained on the first portion 22 of the support means in a tensioned condition. One pair of upper and lower support arms 24 (to the right viewing Figure 1) is secured to a bracket 30 which is attached to outer ends of piston rods 32 of pneumatic piston and cylinder arrangements 34 (only one visible in the drawings) for movement to and fro in the direction indicated by the arrow A in Figure 1. The other pair of upper and lower support arms 24 is secured to piston rods 36 of pneumatic piston and cylinder motors 38 and is thereby movable in the direction indicated by the arrow B on Figure 1, perpendicular to the direction indicated by the arrow A.

The support means further comprises a second portion 40 which includes a pair of idler rolls 42 mounted for rotation about axes parallel with the direction indicated by the arrow A on a support 44. The support 44 is mounted for movement as indicated by the arrow C (in a direction parallel with the direction indicated by the arrow B) between an operative position in which the rolls are shown in full line in Figure 1 and an inoperative position in which the bracket 44 and part of the rolls 42 are shown in Figure 1 in dashed line. The bracket 44 is movable between the operative and inoperative positions by means of a pneumatic piston and cylinder motor (not shown) . The axes of the rolls 42 are connected at the front by a former 46 which is shaped to make an initial fold of a leading end portion of garment fabric (projecting rearwardly beyond the ring) as the ring and fabric are transferred from the first 22 to the second portion 40 of the support means. A shaped part 47 of the sewing machine 12 carries out a similar function at the opposite side of the support means. The axes of rotation of the rolls 42 are parallel with the axes of rotation of the feed rolls 16, 17 and the upper of the rolls 42 is substantially tangential with the plane of the work table 14 of the sewing machine 12. The illustrative apparatus further comprises folding instrumentalities. First folding instrumentalities 50 are adjustably fixed to the frame 20 and comprise a folding element comprising a flat portion 52 generally coplanar with the surface 14 of the work table 14 and a curved folding lip 54 on the rear edge portion of the surface 52 remote from the first portion 22 of the support means. Second folding instrumentalities 56 comprise a base plate 58 mounted for pivotal movement on a axle 60 supported on the frame 20 at the rear of the illustrative apparatus and generally parallel with the arrows B, C. A carriage 61, mounting a folding element 62, is mounted for sliding movement on the base plate 58 in direction perpendicular to the axle 60. A piston rod 66 is secured to the carriage 61 and the carriage is movable to and from in the direction indicated by the arrows H (Figure 5) by means of a pneumatic cylinder 68 secured on the base plate 58. In a first embodiment, in which the apparatus is intended to effect two folds of the leading end portion of the fabric thus to enclose the ring 28 in the hem, the folding element 62 has a curved folding end portion 64 (see Figures 2 to 5) . In this embodiment the folding element 62 is mounted on the carriage 61 by a pivot 63 at right angles to the plane of to and fro movement of the carriage 61, at a left hand end portion of the element 62 (viewing Figure 1). A pneumatic piston and cylinder motor 65 is mounted on the base plate 58 and its piston rod is connected to the right end portion of the element 62 and can be operated to pivot the element 62 about the pivot 63. The second folding instrumentalities can be pivoted about the axle 60 by means of a pneumatic piston and cylinder arrangement (not shown) between a retracted position in which they are shown in Figures 3 and 4 and a raised position which is shown in Figure 5.

Although in the illustrative apparatus all of the movements are effected by means of pneumatic piston and cylinder arrangements, other forms of motor may be used if desired, for example hydraulic motors, electric stepper motors or the like. The various movements of the parts of the illustrative apparatus are initiated by the operator but the sequence of operation is controlled by suitable sequencing means, for example an electronic microprocessor, pneumatic control apparatus including microswitch arrangements or the like.

The second folding instrumentalities comprise a duct 70 mounted in position to eject a jet of air through ports in the curved portion 64: a further duct 72 is mounted on the sewing machine foot 18 to direct a jet of air towards the sewing threads. A fold guide 90 of generally U-shaped cross-section but flared open end is mounted on the frame 20 to receive the hem region and ring 28 when the assembly is carried on the second portion 40 of the support means, to guide and support the hem region.

A pneumatic piston and cylinder motor 92 is mounted on the frame 20 and a sprung finger 94 is carried by the piston rod for movement through a gap 96 in the curved portion 54 of the folder 50. The finger 94 rests on an upper surface of the fabric substantially at the front edge of the ring 28 (that is the trailing edge as the ring is introduced into the machine) . The finder 94 holds the front edge down preventing it curling so that, where a second folder is made by the element 62, the garment fabric is wrapped around the ring 28 (as in Figure 5). The finger 94 is retracted through the gap 96 as the element is advanced from the Figure 4 to the Figure 5 position.

The various operative means are mounted so that they can readily be adjusted to operate on garment openings of different dimensions .

In the use of the first embodiment of the illustrative apparatus in carrying out the illustrative method, the elastic ring 28 is slid into position over the diverging portion of the arms 24 until it is received in the grooves 26 at the ends of the arms 24 and thus located in the correct position, the piston rods 36 at this time being retracted into the cylinders 38 as shown in Figure 1. The arms 24 are also introduced in the same way into the opening of the garment about which the elastic ring 28 is to be secured with the hem region of the garment disposed outwardly of the elastic ring 28 and a leading end portion 73 of the hem region projecting beyond a leading edge 74 of the elastic ring 28 and aligned with guide marks on the rollers 42 and table 14. The piston rods 32 are at this time extended from the cylinders 34 thus disposing the first portion 22 of the support means in an outward, loading position as shown in Figure 1. When the ring 28 and garment have been loaded into position, the cylinders 38 are operated to extend the piston rods 36 and move the arms secured thereto (left arm shown in Figure 1) to a transfer position in which they are able to pass to the left (viewing Figure 1) of the feed roll 17 and work table 14. The right hand arms align a right hand portion of the ring 28 and hem region so that they can be received over the rolls 42 in their retracted position. The ring 28 is thus supported in a tensioned condition.

Next air is admitted to the cylinders 34 to cause the piston rods 32 to retract into the cylinders thus moving the first portion 22 of the support means in the direction of the arrow A towards the first folding instrumentalities 50, thus to present the ring 28 and garment supported by the arms 24 to the first folding instrumentalities 50 and to the guide 90. At this time the second folding instrumentalities 56 are disposed in the retracted position in which they are shown in Figures 3 and 4 thus movement in the direction of the arrow Z (Figures 3 and 4) takes place. Continued inward movement of the first portion 24 causes an initial part (in alignment with the folding instrumentalities 50) of the leading end portion 73 of the hem region to engage the curved portion 54 of the folding element and to be folded around the leading edge 74 of the ring 28 as shown in Figure 4, to form a first fold of the hem region. Formation of the first fold is facilitated by engagement of the leading end of the fabric with the bracket 46 and former 47 as the first portion 22 of the support means moves in the direction of the arrow Z, to assist folding of the leading end portion 73 of the hem region to effect the first fold.

When the portion 24 has reached an innermost position in which the piston rod 32 is fully retracted in the cylinders 34, the piston rods 36 are caused to be retracted into the cylinders 38 and the bracket 44 to be moved from its dashed line, loading, position in which it is shown in Figure 1 to its full line operative position in which it is shown in Figure 1. The rolls 42 and the left hand arms 24 are moved substantially in synchronism so that tension is maintained in the ring 28. In this way the ring 28 is transferred from the first portion 22 of the support means to the second portion 40 of the support means in which the ring is disposed around the rolls 42, over the surface 52 of the first folding instrumentalities over the work table 14 of the sewing machine beneath the presser foot 18, between the feed rolls 16, 17 and over a further guide roll (not shown) at a lower portion of the sewing machine passing beneath the work table of the sewing machine through the guide 90 back to the lower of the two rolls 42. After the ring* 28 and garment have been thus transferred the first portion 22 of the support means is retracted to the loading position in which it is shown in Figure 1. The position of the ring 28 on the rolls 42 is indicated in dash line in Figure 1.

The second folding instrumentalities 56 are thereafter caused to pivot about the axle 60 from the retracted position (Figure 3) to a raised intermediate position (Figure 4) in which the base plate 58 is substantially parallel with the surface 52 of the first folding instrumentalities but with the piston rods 66 still extended from the pistons 68. The curved end portion 64 remains generally parallel with the curved end portion 54. After the second folding instrumentalities have reached the intermediate position the piston rods 66 are retracted into the cylinder 68 thus moving the folding element 62, 64 to the position in which it is shown in Figure 5, causing the curved end portion 64 to engage the leading end portion 73 of the garment material thus to effect a second fold of the leading end portion 73 around the trailing edge 76 of the ring 28 as indicated by the arrow R in Figure 5, the leading end portion thus being tucked between the bulk of the garment material 78 and the ring. The finger 94 is retracted as the element 62 advances. The initial part of the hem region thus fully encloses the corresponding portion of the ring 28. After movement of the folding instrumentalities 56 from the retracted to the intermediate position and from the intermediate position to the operative position in which it is shown in Figure 5, air is ejected from the duct 70 this being directed towards the leading end portion 73 in a direction to assist in making the second fold.

The cylinder 21 is then operated to move the roll 16 into engagement with the roll 17 with the fabric and ring^* 28 trapped therebetween and the motor 23 operated to rotate the roll 16 and feed the assembly through the rolls. This feed movement is continued under the control of a microcomputer until fabric folded round the ring 28 by the instrumentalities 50, 56 has passed beneath the presser foot 18 (in the raised position). The foot 18 is then lowered and sewing commenced, the motor 23 being disabled and roll 16 rotated by drive from the sewing machine.

Next in carrying out the illustrative method, the sewing machine 12 is caused to operate with the folding instrumentalities in the operative positions in which they are shown in Figure 5; this causes the ring 28 and hem region to be fed by feed means including the rollers 16, 17 in the feed direction indicated by the arrow F in Figure 1 (parallel with the arrows B, C) through the sewing machine by which the hem region is stitched thus to secure the hem of the garment and the ring enclosed therein. The garment material and ring are fed through the sewing machine 12 by means of the feed rolls 16, 17 in the usual way. After the initial part of the hem region has been folded and secured as outlined above, feeding of the hem region to the sewing machine 12 is continued thus to progressively fold the remainder of the hem region around the elastic ring 28 as they pass the folding instrumentalities 50, 56. It will be seen, viewing Figure 1 that the curved region 54 of the first folding instrumentalities is reached, when travelling in the feed direction F, by the hem region before the curved folding element 64 of the second folding instrumentalities is reached, thus ensuring that the first fold is properly effected before the second fold is commenced.

In order that the element 64 does not foul the already stitched hem, the motor 65 is operated to pivot the element 62 about the pivot 63 in the direction of arrow K viewing Figure 1 from the Figure 1 position in which the curved portions 54, 64 are parallel to a position where the leading end of the portion 64 is moved forwardly (clear of the hem). The trailing end (adjacent the pivot and table 14) remains substantially in the same position and guides the final part of the hem for sewing. A small overlap in the stitching at the beginning and end of stitching occurs to ensure that the hem is properly secured. Conveniently, if a microprocessor is used, stitch count can be used to determine when to operate the motor 65 and when to terminate stitching.

When the sewing of the hem has been fully completed, the threads are cut automatically and the bracket 44 is moved in the direction of the arrow C back from its full line position to its dash line position in Figure 1 thus to relieve the tension of the ring 28; and the garment is then removed from the apparatus. The apparatus is re-set and a new ring and garment can then be loaded for processing. On re-setting a jet of air from duct 72 blows cut threads on to the top of the foot 18 so that the start of sewing is tidy.

In a second embodiment of the illustrative apparatus (in which the operative cycle is exactly the same as the first) , a different second folding element 62 (not shown) can be mounted on the carriage 68. In use of the second embodiment only a first fold is made (to the stage shown in Figure 4); however, a shorter leading end portion 73 of fabric is used (utilising a different gauge mark on rolls 42 and table 14). When the second folding element 62a is used this is shaped to engage the edge 76 of the ring and urged it fully into the first fold of the fabric (against the curved portion 54) to correctly locate it is the hem. A similar location is carried out by the first element 62 as the second fold is formed in Figure 5.

The illustrative apparatus is reliable and efficient, allowing a complicated and, heretofore, skilled operation to be carried out effectively and reliably by skilled labour it is expected that production of garments will be achieved more rapidly and with fewer rejects in carrying out the illustrative method using the illustrative apparatus.

Claims

1. Apparatus for positioning a continuous ring of strip material in a hem around a garment opening comprising support means for supporting the ring in a tensioned condition with a hem region of the garment material disposed outwardly of the elastic ring, first folding instrumentalities adapted to fold a first hem portion of the garment around a leading edge of an elastic ring supported by the support means, second folding instrumentalities mounted for movement between a first retracted, position and a second, operative position, means for moving a first portion of the support means to present a ring and garment so supported to the first folding instrumentalities whilst the second folding instrumentalities are in the retracted position whereby to fold an initial part of the first hem portion around the leading edge of the elastic ring, and means for moving the second folding instrumentalities to their operative position after said movement of the first portion of the support means whereby to locate the ring in the garment hem, the construction and arrangement being such that after the initial part of the hem region has been folded the initial part can be fed to means for securing the hem region to secure the elastic ring in the hem of the garment while the second folding instrumentalities remain in their operative position, said feeding movement of the ring and hem region causing the folding instrumentalities to effect folding of the remainder of the hem region around the elastic ring as the folded hem region is fed to the means for securing the hem region.

2. Apparatus according to Claim 1 wherein the second folding instrumentalities are adapted to fold a leading end portion of the first hem portion around the trailing edge of the elastic ring whereby to enclose the ring in the garment hem.

3. Apparatus according to either one of Claims 1 and 2 wherein the support means comprises a second portion, by which a ring and hem region are supported for feeding past said folding instrumentalities in their operative position, the apparatus comprising means for effecting relative movement between said first and second portions of the support means whereby to transfer a ring and hem region from the first portion to the second portion.

4. Apparatus according to Claim 3 wherein said means for moving the first portion of the support means is arranged to retract the first portion away from the first folding instrumentalities after a ring and hem region have been transferred to the second portion of the support means.

5. Apparatus according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the first portion of the support means comprises location means for locating an elastic ring in a desired position on said first portion.

6. Apparatus according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said second folding instrumentalities are mounted for pivotal movement between the retracted position in which they are out of the path of movement of a ring supported by said first portion of the support means and an intermediate position from which they are moved linearly towards the first folding instrumentalities into the operative position.

7. Apparatus according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the second folding instrumentalities comprise a curved folding element and at least one duct positioned to expel jets of air to facilitate folding of the hem region.

8. Apparatus according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one duct positioned adjacent the support means to direct air towards the hem region of a garment supported by said first portion of the support means whereby to facilitate folding of the hem region around the leading edge of the ring.

9. Apparatus according to any one of the preceding claims comprising means for securing the hem region including a sewing machine.

10. Apparatus for enclosing a continuous ring of elastic strip material in a hem around a garment opening constructed arranged and adapted to operate substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

11. A method of positioning a continuous ring of elastic strip material in a hem around a garment opening comprising supporting the ring in an extended condition with a hem region of the garment material disposed outwardly of the elastic ring, presenting an initial part of the ring-hem region to first folding instrumentalities whereby to effect a fold a first hem portion of the garment around the leading edge of the elastic ring, thereafter moving second folding instrumentalities from a retracted position to an operative position whereby to locate the elastic ring in the garment hem, and thereafter feeding the said initial part of the hem region to securing means for securing the hem and the ring therein thus to secure the ring and hem, and continuing to feed the hem region to said securing means whereby to progressively fold the remainder of the hem region round he elastic ring as they pass the folding instrumentalities.

12. A method according to Claim 11 wherein the second folding instrumentalities effect a second fold of the hem reqion around the trailing edge of the elastic ring thus to enclose the ring in the garment hem.

13. A method according to Claim 11 wherein there is used apparatus according to any one of Claims 1 to 9.