WO1989003187A1

WO1989003187A1 - Item of jewellery set with gems and process for manufacturing said gems

Info

Publication number: WO1989003187A1
Application number: PCT/EP1988/000933
Authority: WO
Inventors: Regina Stetzkamp-Rohrmüller
Original assignee: Stetzkamp Rohrmueller Regina
Priority date: 1987-10-16
Filing date: 1988-10-17
Publication date: 1989-04-20
Also published as: DE3735159A1; EP0312115A1; JPH02501626A

Abstract

To improve the use of material and reduce cutting costs, the cut edges of gems have an irregular form and the cut made on their uppper face follows the outline of this irregular form.

Description

B E S C H R E I B Ü H G

Gem-set piece of jewelery and method for producing gemstones therefor

The gemstone or semi-precious stone material used for the production of gemstones is becoming increasingly scarce, so that a waste of material as in previous grinding processes should be avoided. On the other hand, jewelry with gemstones should remain affordable.

The object of the invention is to produce improved or economical gemstones by optimal utilization of inclusion-free or poor areas in the stone base material, and to produce modern gemstones from them by multiple assignment or edging, without the cut of the gemstone coveted with conventional gemstones , which refines the stone due to its refractive effects.

Accordingly, the invention consists in a piece of jewelry that has at least one gem that has one irregular ground shape, which largely approximates the irregularity of the inclusion-free or poor stone body of the starting or base material used for the gem and ground on its top of the jewelry following the course of its irregular shape.

According to the invention, the lateral edge region boundaries of the gemstone can be ground out of the base material in straight lines on the one hand, so that an edge-limiting polyhedron of irregular shape results, which can nevertheless be mirror-symmetrical on one plane.

On the other hand, the inclusion-free or inclusion-free stone body contained in the base material can best be exploited according to the invention if the gem stone is ground out of the base material in an irregular shape rounded off in its edge regions.

The gemstone created according to the invention by removing only the parts of the base material that cannot be used as gemstone material, for example because of inclusions, etc., has an irregular shape, in particular in terms of the margins, which means optimal utilization of the inclusion-free or poor body of the base material. With rounded, irregular shape, this utilization is even greater than with polyhedral or polygonal grinding of the edge boundary. In other words: the shape of the gemstone according to the invention no longer corresponds to conventional gemstone shapes, but is based on the shape of the inclusion-free stone body of the base material, whereby even by a certain, within a limited framework grinding out pleasing shapes, the optimal use of the inclusion-free or poor stone body of the Basic material is preserved.

Such exploitation can be increased if the top of the gem has irregular contours, which preferably also have rounded transitions.

So that the gemstone according to the invention has the conventional light refractive property despite the irregular shape ground out or possibly on the top of the stone, the gemstone can have a facet cut or stair cut, which follows the irregular course of the edge area or the surface contour either in curved or mutually exposing flat surfaces and can be provided in several stages one above the other.

The gemstones according to the invention can then be combined with the color combination of individual stones and by using the irregular shape to form particularly lively pieces of jewelry, which also results in completely new aesthetic advantages.

To further utilize the basic material, a stone can also be arranged in the middle A hole-like cut-out is ground out, which is then advantageously filled in by a second gem stone which has been shaped to fit this hole cut-out, the inserted stone being connected on its underside to the setting of the surrounding stone.

In addition to the reduced stone loss, the gemstone according to the invention can also be produced with far less grinding work.

A process for its manufacture can be a process in which stone material, e.g. a spatial image of the inclusion-free or inclusion-free stone material is also created by non-destructive material testing, which is preferably ground out computer-aided and contact-free (e.g. with laser) or contact-scanned.

The invention is described in more detail below in exemplary embodiments.

Show it:

1 is a schematic representation of a starting or basic material for a gem according to the invention,

2 is a top view of a gem according to the invention and a suggested combination with another gem in a piece of jewelry, 3 shows a side view of the gem according to FIG. 2 (approximately from the perspective of arrow III),

4 shows a modified embodiment of a piece of jewelry according to the invention in longitudinal section,

1, there is an inclusion-free or poor stone body 7, into which a material-optimal shape for a gem stone 2 to be ground is placed in such a way that the least possible loss of material and the least possible grinding work is done,

According to FIGS. 2 and 3, the gemstone 2 worked out in this way is given a facet or stair cut 5 on its upper side 4, for example in the course of the edge regions 3 following flat surfaces 5b or combinations thereof.

Edge regions or edge region boundaries 3 are to be understood as the formation of the gem stone 2 in its projection plane parallel to its underside 12 or top side 4.

But also the different thickness of the inclusion-free or poor stone body 7 can be used in that, for example, the facets 5 have different height dimensions or the top of the gem 2 has irregular contours, for example a ridge rising to the top surface 11 (also rounded) 10th Laser-controlled and computer-assisted automatic grinding processes can be used to optimally work out the inclusion-free or low-stone body 7 of the gem stone 2, and scanning the crystal lattice arrangement can also serve as a work orientation.

In the event that e.g. a gem 2 should have a defect in a central area 13, a hole-like cutout 14 of different cross-sectional shapes can be cut through the stone body 7 or the gem 2 and its jewelery socket 15 (with socket claws 22). In this cutout 17, an adapted, ground second stone 16 is inserted (direction of insertion 18), which is fastened in a separate stone setting 20 with edging claws 19. In its inserted position 21 it is secured by securing (bending 19 ') the edging claws 19.

As an additional aesthetic effect, the second stone 16 can have a special effect by, for example, special grinding 17 on its upper side.

REFERENCE NUMBER LIST

Jewel Gemstone Edge areas or edge area delimitation top side facet cut (or stair cut) a curved surfaces b flat surfaces inclusion-free or poor stone body starting or basic material inclusions or cracks rounded transition top (e.g. ridge) top surface underside middle area hole-like Cut-out trinket-setting, adapted, second stone cut, direction of insertion, edging claws, fully assembled state of 19 stone setting, inserted position of 16 setting claws

Claims

P AT E Ϊ TANSPR Ü C HE

1. gem-set piece of jewelry characterized in that it has at least one gem (2) which has an irregular cut shape, which largely the irregularity of the inclusion-free or poor stone body (7) of the starting or base material used for the gem (7) approximated and ground on its jewelry top (4) following the course of its irregular shape.

2. Piece of jewelery according to claim 1, d a d u r c h g e k e n n z e i c h n e t that the gem (2) has an irregular shape rounded in its marginal area boundaries (3).

3. Piece of jewelry according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the gem (2) on its upper side (4) has irregular contours, which preferably also have rounded transitions (10).

4. Piece of jewelry according to one of the preceding claims, that the top of the piece of jewelry (4) has a cabouchon-like cut, which follows the irregular course of the boundary area boundary (3), preferably also the course of the surface contours,

5. Piece of jewelery according to one of the preceding claims, d a d u r c h g e k e n e z e i c h n e t that the top of the jewelery has a facet cut or stair cut (5) which follows the irregular course of the boundary area boundary (3), preferably also the course of the surface contours,

6, piece of jewelery according to one of claims 1-5, so that the facet-cut surfaces (5) are curved surfaces (5a).

7. Piece of jewelery according to one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the facet-cut surfaces (5) are adjacent flat surfaces (5b).

8. Piece of jewelery according to one of the preceding claims, that a plurality of gemstones (2) with irregular boundary area boundaries (3) or surface contours are arranged in a color and / or shape-coordinated gemstone combination.

9. Piece of jewelry according to one of the preceding claims, d a d u r c h g e k e n n z e i c h n e t that from its central region (13) a cutout (14) is ground out like a hole.

10. Piece of jewelry according to claim 9, d a d u r c h g e k e n n z e i c h n e t that through the hole-like cut-out cutout (14) is inserted into this hole-like cut-in stone, which is connected on its underside to the socket (15) of the surrounding stone (2),

11. A method for the production of gemstones for jewelery according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a spatial image of the inclusion-free or inclusion-free stone material is determined from the starting or basic stone material, for example by non-destructive material testing, and this is preferably computer-aided and is ground without contact (e.g. with laser) - or touch scanned.

12. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the selected jewelry surface (4) contact-free (laser) - or contact-scanned following the course of the edge area boundaries (3) preferably also the surface contours in Cabouchol - or facet cut, the facet surfaces following the irregularities, they are preferably ground or curved.