WO1988000039A1 - Cosmetic in form of pressed powder - Google Patents

Cosmetic in form of pressed powder Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1988000039A1
WO1988000039A1 PCT/US1987/001617 US8701617W WO8800039A1 WO 1988000039 A1 WO1988000039 A1 WO 1988000039A1 US 8701617 W US8701617 W US 8701617W WO 8800039 A1 WO8800039 A1 WO 8800039A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
powder
range
present
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US1987/001617
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Clara Mercado
Debra Verdon
Original Assignee
Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd. filed Critical Charles Of The Ritz Group Ltd.
Publication of WO1988000039A1 publication Critical patent/WO1988000039A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S257/00—Active solid-state devices, e.g. transistors, solid-state diodes
    • Y10S257/905—Plural dram cells share common contact or common trench

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a pressed facial powder, hereinafter referred to as a "pressed powder" which is easily converted, by scraping the top layers thereof, into a loose powder ready for application.
  • Facial makeup is normally applied in two steps. In a first step, liquid or cream foundation is applied. Next, a finishing powder is applied to complete the makeup.
  • finishing powder has been available in the form of a loose dusty powder or as a pressed powder.
  • the loose powder is preferred since it is easier to apply than the pressed powder; however, due to its fine particle size, the loose powder is very dusty and therefore essentially non-portable.
  • Portable forms of finishing powder usually are in the form of pressed powders which include a talc filler, a dry binder such as calcium stearate, a liquid binder which includes an ester such as isopropyl myristate, squalane
  • Pressed powders have greater portability than loose powders. However, they are applied by a powder puff and in doing so, the powder puff must be pressed against the face of the pressed powder and take up powder to be applied. The difficulty arises in trying to take up adequate amounts of powder from the caked or pressed powder onto the powder puff. It has been found that if the same powder puff is employed too many times for such purpose, the powder puff may be impregnated with skin oils and thus will not lift powder from the pressed powder. Furthermore, constant contact of the powder puff with the upper layers of pressed powder causes the pressed powder to mat down and harden, thereby making it extremely difficult to lift off loose powder therefrom.
  • a pressed powder cosmetic composition comprising a blend of moisturizing and oil absorbing clays comprising kaolin and mica, the blend being present in an amount within the range of from about 20 to about 40% by weight, filler, dry binder and liquid binder, and the blend of clays supplying a moisture content of from about 3 to about 6% by weight of said composition.
  • a pressed powder which is portable but is easily converted to loose powder form by simply scraping or milling upper layers thereof with a mesh type strainer-like material.
  • the loose powder so- produced therefrom is of desired texture and feel, will not plug-up the openings in such mesh material and is substantially dry but still creamy.
  • the pressed powder in accordance with the present invention includes a unique balance of clays which imparts to the pressed powder product desired moisture-content, oil absorption capacity and desired particle size and shape.
  • the pressed powder of the invention will also contain one or more fillers, dry binders, liquid binders and colorants.
  • clays mentioned above will be formed of kaolin and mica in a ratio to each other of within the range of from about 1:1 to about 2:1 and preferably from about 1:1 to about 1.5:1. Such clays will impart sufficient moisture to the pressed powder of the invention so that it will remain in a creamy pressed or relatively congealed form but from which loose powder may be easily scraped therefrom.
  • the clays will be present in an amount within the range of from about 20% to about 50% and preferably from about 30 to about 45% by weight of the pressed powder so as to impart a moisture content of from about 3 to about 6% and preferably from about 4 to about 5% by weight of the pressed powder.
  • the pressed powder will also include fillers in an amount within the range of from about 15 to about 70% and preferably from about 15 to about 30% by weight.
  • fillers include, but are not limited to, talc, rice starch (that is, pulverized grains from the rice plant, which also forms a soothing protective film) and/or bismuth oxychloride, with a mixture of rice starch and talc being preferred.
  • the fillers will comprise talc and rice starch employed in a weight ratio to each other within the range of from about 5:1 to about 20:1 and preferably from about 10:1 to about 15:1.
  • One or more dry binders will be present in an amount within the range of from about 3 to about 10% and preferably from about 3 to about 5% by weight of the pressed powder.
  • suitable dry binders include but are not limited to magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, calcium stearate, lithium stearate and mixtures of two or more thereof, with calcium stearate being preferred.
  • the liquid binders will be present in an amount within the range of from about 2 to about 5% and preferably from about 2 to about 4% by weight of the pressed powder.
  • the liquid binders are generally a mixture of bonding, lubricanting and moisturizing components and include, but are not limited to from about 2.7 to about 4.7% by weight (of the liquid binder) of squalane which is also referred to as Robane, a natural moisturizer that has been found to be a constituent of human sebum) , from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight (of the liquid binder) of lecithin (which aids in forming a protective coating of the skin), from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight (of the liquid binder) , of one or more esters such as isopropyl myristate or isodecyl neopentanoate, from about 2 to about 3% by weight (of the liquid binder) , of a silicone (which adds lubricity, reduces moisture loss without interfering with normal skin respiration) , and mixtures thereof with a mixture of isopropyl myristate squalane, lecithin, and silicone being
  • the liquid binder may also include other ingredients such as one or more antioxidants, for example, Vitamin E tocopherol, in an amount within the range of from about 0.01 to about 0.03% and preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.02% by weight of the pressed powder.
  • Other ingredients which may be present in the pressed powder of the invention include one or more colorants, one or more preservatives in amounts of less than 1% by weight, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol or mixtures thereof such as Phenonip and/or one or more fragrances.
  • Preferred formulations of the pressed powder of the invention are set out below:
  • the pressed powder of the invention may be prepared by simply mixing the blend of clays, fillers, dry binders and colorants, icropulverizing the mixture so that is passes through a 0.013 inch screen and thus has an average particle size of from about 25 to about 35 microns, adding liquid binders, micropulverizing, if necessary, so that the mix passes through a 0.027 inch screen and thus has an average particle size of from about 40 to about 60 microns, and pressing the mixture in a mold, such as a compact, to form the pressed powder.
  • the pressed powder of the invention will preferably take the form of a creamy non-dusting finishing facial powder which is to be applied over liquid or cream foundation make-up.
  • the pressed powder formulation of the invention may also be employed as an all over face color pressed powder including a face bronzer, eye shadow or blusher.
  • All of the above products are formulated as portable creamy pressed powders which may easily be converted into loose powder form by means of a scraper or scraping tool such as a mesh strainer material or other tool having a grating or rasp like surface.
  • the pressed powder of the invention is formulated such that in loose powder form, it will have an average particle size of less than about 60 microns.
  • Example 1 represents a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • a pressed finishing powder in accordance with the present invention having the following composition was prepared as described below.
  • Vitamin E Vitamin E, NF-FCC (antioxidant) Isopropyl myristate
  • the fillers and dry binder were mixed in a ribbon blender.
  • the ingredients forming the liquid binder intermediate were mixed together with propeller mixing for 15 minutes until a homogeneous blend was formed.
  • the filler-dry binder was then micropulverized (0.013 inch screen, 30 to 40 microns) two times and returned to the ribbon blender and mixed.
  • the liquid binder intermediate was then sprayed into the filler- dry binder mix in a fine mist and the mixtures blended until uniform.
  • the mix was then passed through a micropulverizer (0.027 inch screen, 45 to 55 microns) and then blended again in the ribbon blender, then the mix was poured into a compact and pressed therein by means of a powder press, e.g., Cavalla, Kemwall or Vekico.
  • the product formed was a portable pressed powder which had a smooth creamy texture and feel and a moisture content of about 5% so that it remained in pressed solid form. However, the so-formed pressed powder was easily converted into loose powder by simply scraping upper layers thereof with a mesh or screen surface to form loose powder of proper particle size and texture, ready for use.
  • the pressed powder of the present invention is useful in cosmetics, particularly as a face powder.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Bipolar Transistors (AREA)

Abstract

A pressed facial cosmetic powder which is easily converted by scraping into loose powder form and includes a unique blend of different clays including kaolin and mica which imparts desired feel, compactability, moisture content, oil absorbability and platelet structure; the pressed powder includes in addition to the mixture of clays, dry binder, such as magnesium stearate, liquid binder, which may include lecithin, squalane, silicone, an ester and antioxidant, and colorants.

Description

DESCRIPTION COSMETIC IN FORM OF PRESSED POWDER Technical Field
The present invention relates to a pressed facial powder, hereinafter referred to as a "pressed powder" which is easily converted, by scraping the top layers thereof, into a loose powder ready for application. Background Art Facial makeup is normally applied in two steps. In a first step, liquid or cream foundation is applied. Next, a finishing powder is applied to complete the makeup.
Until now, the finishing powder has been available in the form of a loose dusty powder or as a pressed powder. The loose powder is preferred since it is easier to apply than the pressed powder; however, due to its fine particle size, the loose powder is very dusty and therefore essentially non-portable. Portable forms of finishing powder usually are in the form of pressed powders which include a talc filler, a dry binder such as calcium stearate, a liquid binder which includes an ester such as isopropyl myristate, squalane
(Robane) , isopropyl stearate, or isodecyl neopentanoate, an oil such as mineral oil or lanolin or mixtures thereof, as well as desired colorants.
Pressed powders have greater portability than loose powders. However, they are applied by a powder puff and in doing so, the powder puff must be pressed against the face of the pressed powder and take up powder to be applied. The difficulty arises in trying to take up adequate amounts of powder from the caked or pressed powder onto the powder puff. It has been found that if the same powder puff is employed too many times for such purpose, the powder puff may be impregnated with skin oils and thus will not lift powder from the pressed powder. Furthermore, constant contact of the powder puff with the upper layers of pressed powder causes the pressed powder to mat down and harden, thereby making it extremely difficult to lift off loose powder therefrom.
Thus, a pressed powder which is portable and non-dusting which may be easily converted to loose powder form would indeed represent an advance in the art and satisfy a long-felt want. Disclosure of Invention
According to the present invention, there is provided a pressed powder cosmetic composition comprising a blend of moisturizing and oil absorbing clays comprising kaolin and mica, the blend being present in an amount within the range of from about 20 to about 40% by weight, filler, dry binder and liquid binder, and the blend of clays supplying a moisture content of from about 3 to about 6% by weight of said composition. Best Mode of Carrying- Out Invention
In accordance with the present invention, a pressed powder is provided which is portable but is easily converted to loose powder form by simply scraping or milling upper layers thereof with a mesh type strainer-like material. The loose powder so- produced therefrom is of desired texture and feel, will not plug-up the openings in such mesh material and is substantially dry but still creamy. The pressed powder in accordance with the present invention includes a unique balance of clays which imparts to the pressed powder product desired moisture-content, oil absorption capacity and desired particle size and shape. In addition, the pressed powder of the invention will also contain one or more fillers, dry binders, liquid binders and colorants. The unique balance of clays mentioned above will be formed of kaolin and mica in a ratio to each other of within the range of from about 1:1 to about 2:1 and preferably from about 1:1 to about 1.5:1. Such clays will impart sufficient moisture to the pressed powder of the invention so that it will remain in a creamy pressed or relatively congealed form but from which loose powder may be easily scraped therefrom. Thus, the clays will be present in an amount within the range of from about 20% to about 50% and preferably from about 30 to about 45% by weight of the pressed powder so as to impart a moisture content of from about 3 to about 6% and preferably from about 4 to about 5% by weight of the pressed powder. The pressed powder will also include fillers in an amount within the range of from about 15 to about 70% and preferably from about 15 to about 30% by weight. Examples of such fillers include, but are not limited to, talc, rice starch (that is, pulverized grains from the rice plant, which also forms a soothing protective film) and/or bismuth oxychloride, with a mixture of rice starch and talc being preferred. In preferred embodiments, the fillers will comprise talc and rice starch employed in a weight ratio to each other within the range of from about 5:1 to about 20:1 and preferably from about 10:1 to about 15:1.
One or more dry binders will be present in an amount within the range of from about 3 to about 10% and preferably from about 3 to about 5% by weight of the pressed powder. Examples of suitable dry binders include but are not limited to magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, calcium stearate, lithium stearate and mixtures of two or more thereof, with calcium stearate being preferred. The liquid binders will be present in an amount within the range of from about 2 to about 5% and preferably from about 2 to about 4% by weight of the pressed powder. The liquid binders are generally a mixture of bonding, lubricanting and moisturizing components and include, but are not limited to from about 2.7 to about 4.7% by weight (of the liquid binder) of squalane which is also referred to as Robane, a natural moisturizer that has been found to be a constituent of human sebum) , from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight (of the liquid binder) of lecithin (which aids in forming a protective coating of the skin), from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight (of the liquid binder) , of one or more esters such as isopropyl myristate or isodecyl neopentanoate, from about 2 to about 3% by weight (of the liquid binder) , of a silicone (which adds lubricity, reduces moisture loss without interfering with normal skin respiration) , and mixtures thereof with a mixture of isopropyl myristate squalane, lecithin, and silicone being preferred.
The liquid binder may also include other ingredients such as one or more antioxidants, for example, Vitamin E tocopherol, in an amount within the range of from about 0.01 to about 0.03% and preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.02% by weight of the pressed powder. Other ingredients which may be present in the pressed powder of the invention include one or more colorants, one or more preservatives in amounts of less than 1% by weight, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol or mixtures thereof such as Phenonip and/or one or more fragrances. Preferred formulations of the pressed powder of the invention are set out below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
The pressed powder of the invention may be prepared by simply mixing the blend of clays, fillers, dry binders and colorants, icropulverizing the mixture so that is passes through a 0.013 inch screen and thus has an average particle size of from about 25 to about 35 microns, adding liquid binders, micropulverizing, if necessary, so that the mix passes through a 0.027 inch screen and thus has an average particle size of from about 40 to about 60 microns, and pressing the mixture in a mold, such as a compact, to form the pressed powder.
The pressed powder of the invention will preferably take the form of a creamy non-dusting finishing facial powder which is to be applied over liquid or cream foundation make-up. However, the pressed powder formulation of the invention may also be employed as an all over face color pressed powder including a face bronzer, eye shadow or blusher.
All of the above products are formulated as portable creamy pressed powders which may easily be converted into loose powder form by means of a scraper or scraping tool such as a mesh strainer material or other tool having a grating or rasp like surface. The pressed powder of the invention is formulated such that in loose powder form, it will have an average particle size of less than about 60 microns.
The following Example represents a preferred embodiment of the present invention. Example
A pressed finishing powder in accordance with the present invention having the following composition was prepared as described below.
Figure imgf000008_0001
100.1 Robane Binder Intermediate
Ingredient Robane (Squalane) Lecithin (Alcolec D.S.)
Vitamin E, NF-FCC (antioxidant) Isopropyl myristate
Figure imgf000009_0001
100.0 The fillers and dry binder were mixed in a ribbon blender. The ingredients forming the liquid binder intermediate were mixed together with propeller mixing for 15 minutes until a homogeneous blend was formed.
The filler-dry binder was then micropulverized (0.013 inch screen, 30 to 40 microns) two times and returned to the ribbon blender and mixed. The liquid binder intermediate was then sprayed into the filler- dry binder mix in a fine mist and the mixtures blended until uniform. The mix was then passed through a micropulverizer (0.027 inch screen, 45 to 55 microns) and then blended again in the ribbon blender, then the mix was poured into a compact and pressed therein by means of a powder press, e.g., Cavalla, Kemwall or Vekico. The product formed was a portable pressed powder which had a smooth creamy texture and feel and a moisture content of about 5% so that it remained in pressed solid form. However, the so-formed pressed powder was easily converted into loose powder by simply scraping upper layers thereof with a mesh or screen surface to form loose powder of proper particle size and texture, ready for use. Industrial Applicability
The pressed powder of the present invention is useful in cosmetics, particularly as a face powder.

Claims

Clai s 1. A pressed powder cosmetic composition comprising a blend of moisturizing and oil absorbing clays comprising kaolin and mica, said blend being present in an amount within the range of from about 20 to about 40% by weight, filler, dry binder and liquid binder, said blend of clays supplying a moisture content of from about 3 to about 6% by weight of said composition. 2. The composition as defined in Claim 1 wherein said blend of clays is comprised of from about 10 to about 20% by weight kaolin and from about 15 to about 25% by weight mica.
3. The composition as defined in Claim 1 wherein said filler is present in an amount within the range of from about 20 to about 70% by weight.
4. The composition as defined in Claim 3 wherein the filler is talc, rice starch, or bismuth oxychloride. 5- τhe composition as defined in Claim 1 wherein the dry binder is present in an amount within the range of from about 2 to about 7% by weight.
6. The composition as defined in Claim 5 wherein the dry binder is magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, calcium stearate or lithium stearate.
7. The composition as defined in Claim 1 wherein the liquid binder is present in an amount within the range of from about 3 to about 5% by weight.
8. The composition as defined in Claim 7 wherein the liquid binder is formed of an ester, squalane, lecithin and silicone.
9. The composition as defined in Claim 8 wherein the liquid binder further includes an antioxidant and said ester is isopropyl myristate or isodecyl neopentanoate. 10. The composition as defined in Claim 9 wherein the antioxidant is Vitamin E tocopherol.
11. The composition as defined in Claim 8 wherein the squalane is present in an amount within the range of from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight of the composition, lecithin is present in an amount within the range of from about 0.1 to about 0.2% by weight of the composition, silicone is present in an amount within the range of from about 0.75 to about 1.25% by weight, and the ester is present in an amount within the range of from about 2 to about 3 by weight, all of said % being based on the weight of the liquid binder.
12. The composition as defined in Claim 1 wherein the dry binder is comprised of calcium stearate, the liquid binder is comprised of squalane, lecithin, silicone and Vitamin E tocopherol and further including one or more colorants.
PCT/US1987/001617 1986-07-09 1987-07-09 Cosmetic in form of pressed powder WO1988000039A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US06/883,876 US4771326A (en) 1986-07-09 1986-07-09 Composition double heterojunction transistor
US883,876 1986-07-09

Publications (1)

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WO1988000039A1 true WO1988000039A1 (en) 1988-01-14

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US (1) US4771326A (en)
EP (1) EP0274520A4 (en)
AU (1) AU7786587A (en)
WO (1) WO1988000039A1 (en)

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WO2002017861A1 (en) * 2000-08-30 2002-03-07 L'oreal Matt cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and an inert particulate phase
FR2917608A1 (en) * 2007-06-25 2008-12-26 Chanel Parfums Beaute Sas Unip PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A SOLID COSMETIC PRODUCT
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WO2009000849A1 (en) * 2007-06-25 2008-12-31 Chanel Parfums Beaute Process of manufacturing a solid cosmetic product
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EP0274520A1 (en) 1988-07-20
AU7786587A (en) 1988-01-29
US4771326A (en) 1988-09-13
EP0274520A4 (en) 1988-08-23

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