Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing.
• patterns for cutting out articles of cloth ⁇ ing When patterns for cutting out articles of cloth ⁇ ing are prepared it is common practice first to draw up the several pattern pieces in natural size for a specific size of the article of clothing usually the smallest size, the pattern then being graded, which means that corresponding pattern pieces for other possible sizes are drawn up by using the pattern for the chosen size as a base.
• the several pattern pieces can be cut from thin paper, one set for each size, or the pattern pieces are drawn up on one and the same paper sheet in natural size the lines of pattern pieces relating to different sizes of the article of clothing being separated from each other by different types of lines being used. It has also been proposed to make the patterns for cutting out articles of clothing in a small for ⁇ mat such that they can be entered on a sheet e.g.
• the sheet with the pattern shown in reduced size then is used as a model for cutting out the article of clothing either by drawing up the pattern in natural size on thin paper by guidance of the model and using the pattern pieces thus obtained when cutting the cloth, or by drawing up the several parts of the article of clothing directly on the cloth.
• the pattern is drawn up in natural size on paper or cloth by means of different facilities with the help of which the model is converted to pattern pieces having the form and size required for an article of clothing of a certain size.
• To have a model with a pattern of reduced size thus is advantageous not only in view of the more convenient and easy storage but also in view of the possibility to produce from a single model articles of clothing of different sizes.
• the bust and waist are measured for drawing up the pattern and by means of the model and the special measuring tape the several pattern pieces are then drawn up in the size they must have for an article of clothing which fits the person having the ' bust and wafst as measured;
• Polar coordinates are used for drawing up the pattern pieces; from a reference point on the model measures are marked along different polar coordinates passing through a number of points o the contour of the related pattern piece on the model, and from these points predetermined measures indicated on the model are marked on the respective polar co ⁇ ordinates.
• Corresponding points are marked on a sheet of paper or on the cloth for the article of clothing.
• a pattern piece of the size corresponding to the actua size of the article of clothing is obtained by connect ing the points by lines drawn by means of a templet.
• this prior art system which is believed to represent the most advanced development of the principle of using a model of reduced size, has been found imperfect because the gradation of the pattern by means of the bust and waist measures will not be correct over the entire range of sizes. If small sizes are correct this is not true for bigger sizes, and vice versa; the condition can vary from one model to the other.
• the system is based on the use of a measuring tape developed especially for the system as mentioned above, and a further drawback is to be seen herein because it is no doubt easy to make a mistake when using a measuring tape having another gradation and other scales than the usual centimeter scale to which persons are most accustomed.
• the invention relates to a method for producing a model for cutting out articles of clothing comprising a sheet showing the cutting-out pattern in reduced size, and the object of the i ⁇ ven- tion is to provide such a model by which the pattern pieces for different sizes can be drawn up not only in a _ e ry simple manner by using polar coordinates but also extremely exactly in respect of gradation of the pattern for different sizes of the article of clothing to be sewn by using the pattern drawn up.
• the only facility used when drawing up the pattern is a conventional measuring tape and that there is always obtained exact form and size of the pattern for the size to be sewn because the gradation has been performed in advance at the production of the model and is not done in connec- tion with the pattern being drawn up. Therefore, the gradation can be made by using, modern facilities which are available nowadays such as computerized gradation.
• FIG. 1 is a plan view of a graded pattern and illustrates the production of the model by apply- ing the method according to the invention
• FIG. 2 is a plan view of the model and illustrate the use of this model when drawing up the pattern piece
• FIGS. 3 to 6 are plan views of different types of models produced by applying the method according to the invention.
• FIG. 1 there is illustrated how the method according to the invention is applied for producing a model which then shall be used for producing pattern pieces for an article of clothing of different sizes.
• a pattern piece 10 is made in natural size for the smallest existing size of the article to be sewn, and then the gradation is performed by applying known technique such that pattern pieces 11, 12, 13, and 14 of natural size for other actual sizes are obtained. It is of course possible to have more or less sizes than five as has been presupposed in FIG. 1.
• a picture 15 of the pattern of reduced size is then drawn up the picture being made no bigger than it can easily be entered on a small sheet e.g. of the size.
• a reference point 16 is marked. Where this reference point shall be located must be found empiri ⁇ cally. It can be located within the picture 15, but it is also possible and in some cases advantageous to locate this point outside said picture. From the reference point 16 polar coordinates 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 are now drawn to points 17', 18', 19*, 20*, and 21' corresponding to each other but relating to different pattern pieces of the graded pattern. The distance from the reference point 16 to e.g. the point 17' along the coordinate 17, indicated by A in FIG.
• the measure C obtained in connection' with the point 17' is marked along the respective coordinates 18, 19, 20, and 21, the points 18", 19", 20", and 21" being marked on these coordinates.
• the picture 15 with the reference point 16 is drawn up on a sheet 22, FIG. 2, and also the points
• the pattern sheet 22 is located on a sheet of thi paper 24, FIG. 2, or directly on the cloth piece from which the article of clothing is to be made.
• the polar coordinate is drawn from th reference point 16 through the point 21 " and the measure C is indicated along the coordinate from the point 21" by means of a conventional measuring tape. Then, a point 121 is obtained and this point is marked on the paper sheet or the piece of cloth 24. The pro- cedure is repeated for all other points for the actual size available on the pattern sheet 22 but not shown in FIG.
• FIG. 3 shows a complete model for a pattern piece having such a great number of points for different sizes indicated thereon as are necessary for exactly reproducing the small reproduction of the pattern piece in the size that the pattern piece must have for the chosen size of the article of cloth- ing.
• the reproduction is shown in FIG. 3 in the size which it has on the pattern sheet.
• the points have not been marked in FIG. 3 in different manners for the different sizes but it is the intention that the points shall have different colours. Thus, for a specific size all red points or green. points or any colour that the different points may have is chosen.
• For each set of points a measure C is indicated, which has to be marked from the related point along the polar coordinate through this point and the reference point 16.
• FIG. 3 illustrates the appearance that the model should have i.e. the points should be well distributed so that they can be easily distinguished, and they should be located so far from the reference point 16 that it is possible to draw the polar coordinates with reasonable accuracy.
• the model can be entered on a sheet, e.g. A4, which can be easily handled, and thus these two considerations have to be weighed against each other in order to optimize the result.
• the reference point 16 should be located in such a manner that the points through which the polar co ⁇ ordinates are to be drawn will not be clustered to ⁇ gether. As a rule, the reference point can be located within the picture 15 but it is also possible to locat this point outside the picture as shown in FIG. 4.
• a pattern piece can have exactly. the same size and form for all sizes of the article to be sewn, and this is true e.g. for a pocket on the article of clothing. In that case it is not necessary to have different points for different sizes of the article of clothing; one and the same point is used for the respective polar coordinates no matter the size ' of the article of clothing. This is. illustrated in FIG. 5.
• the pattern model can be used in a simple and easy way it is pre ⁇ ferred, however, that one and the same measure is used for all sizes as far as the points of one and the same set of related points is concerned; then there is less risk of drawing up the pattern piece incorrectly.
• pattern pieces for different sizes of the article of clothing are sta.cked with the right hand edges coinciding.
• pattern pieces can be arranged in such a manner when the pattern model is being produced that the contour of the pattern piece for the size following the smallest size extends along and spaced outwardly of the contour of the pattern piece of the smallest size, the contour of the pattern piece for next size of the article of clothing extending along and spaced outwardly of the pattern piece for the second smallest size of the article and so on up to the pattern piece for the biggest size.
• the pattern model it is also possible, however, to arrange the pattern pieces relating to different sizes of the article of clothing relatively displaced or turned. Points for drawing up the several pattern pieces can be marked and the pattern pieces can be -reproduced in the manner described, from the pattern model thus produced.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=20335237

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (10)

Cited By (1)

Citations (4)

• 1978
  • 1978-06-19 SE SE7806983A patent/SE411997B/sv unknown
• 1979
  • 1979-06-15 FI FI791923A patent/FI791923A/fi not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1979-06-15 NO NO792003A patent/NO792003L/no unknown
  • 1979-06-15 DK DK249979A patent/DK249979A/da not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1979-06-18 WO PCT/SE1979/000139 patent/WO1980000053A1/en unknown
  • 1979-06-18 JP JP50097879A patent/JPS55500655A/ja active Pending
  • 1979-06-18 BE BE2/57876A patent/BE877038A/xx unknown
  • 1979-06-19 NL NL7904753A patent/NL7904753A/nl not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1979-06-19 AU AU48183/79A patent/AU4818379A/en not_active Abandoned
• 1980
  • 1980-01-29 EP EP79900695A patent/EP0016055A1/en not_active Withdrawn

Patent Citations (4)

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