USRE3635E - Improvement in sewing-machines for boot and shoe sewing - Google Patents

Description

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICED Y CHARLES GOODYEAR, JR., FRANCIS DU BOIS, FREDERICK RENAUD, AND

HENRY T. CLOSE, OF NEW DESTOUY.

Yoan, N. Y., AssIGNEEs or AUGUSTUS Specification forming pari of Letters Patent No. 34,413, dated Febiualry 18, 1862; reissue No. 3,635, dated September 7, 1869.

1'0 whom tt may concern;-

Be it known that AUGUSTUS DEs'roUY, of the city, county, and State of New York, invented certain new andv useful Improvements in Machinery for Sewing Boots and VSlioesa-n d other like articles made of leather` or other similar substances; and the-following is hereby declared to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had tip the accompanying drawings.

Figure l, ot' Sheet l, is a side elevationof amachine made in accorda-nce with this invention. Fig. 2 is a front elevation, and Fig. 3 a sectional elevation, ot' the machine. Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7,8, 9, 10, 11,.are detailed views; and Fig. 12, a double machine, arranged for the uniting of soles with their uppers, as well as for the sewing ot'y other kind ot' work in shoemaking, saddlery, &c. In Sheet No. 2,v the Figs. l, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent, respective- 1y, sidefront, andrear elevations, plan and detail views of a machine constructed according to the principle of this invention, but moditied so as 'to be adapted to the sewing or stitching of such parts of articles made ot' leather, &c.,whicl1 require the work to be laid on a sewing-table while being fed across the sewing mechanism.

The main feature of this invention relates to machinery for the production of welted boots or shoes and it may be stated to consist, tirst, in the combination, in a sewing mechanism, of a needle, or equivalent instrument, for carrying thethread through the material to be sewed, with an awl or other instrument. for first piercing the hole in the material through which the thread is to be passed, both said instruments having motion upon a common center of revolution or.oscil lation. Second, in the combination with the thread-carrying device and piercing-instrument, both operating upon a common airis of oscillation, of a support for holding inthe path of both thework to be sewed. Third, in

`the oscillatory needle or awl-stock, driven by direct and positive action of the driving mechanism, so that the needle may describe an arc. of a circle, uotless than thirty degrees. Fourth,

in combining. the sewing-mechanism with the support for the workto be sewed,under such an arrangement that the seam uniting the upper and the sole may be made through only part of the thickness ofthe sole. Fifth, in the arrangement ot' the support so as to' serve, first, as a rest-for the Work; second, as a sewing gage, to regulate the distance ot' the stitches from the upper or from the edge ot' the sole; and third, as a guard or shield, to prevent the awl and needle from being injured themselves, and from marking or injuring the upper. Sixth, in the combination, in a sewing mechanism, of 'a circularly-curved awl or piercing instrument, with a circularlycurved needle, operating as hereinafter explained.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use this invention, the manner in which the same is or may be carried into effect will now be explained by reference to the accompanying drawings.

The frame of the machine is here shown east in one piece, with a base-plate, A, capable of rotation on apivot-sleeve,B, and .con-

sisting, iirst, of an upright round disk, C,

through the center of which passes the axleA D of the niai-ncog-wheel E, which receives its motion from the prime mover through the: pinion F, fast on the head of the main shaft G, and imparts such motion to the operative part-s of the machine; second, of4 a standardcasing, C,fin front of the disk that incluses the sewing and feeding mechanism proper. To the frontA part of the frame-work are attached two brackets, f and g, fitted with bearings to hold the axle It, in such a .manner as to allow of its reciprocating playin the direction of it-s length, and of its revolution around its axis.I One ofthe brackets, and preferably the one toward the left'of the operator, is provided with the support i, for the material to l be sewed to rest upon while it is being sewed, and j, whosefunction it is to prevent the awl from being bentor broken, and to give a support to the upper while it is being united with the Welt and the sole, it being understood that the-.ledge formed in the sole rests,'during this operation, uponv the front harof -the support.

sewed iu the path ofthe piereingand threadcarrying instruments, is composed of two bars, between which theneedle andgawlplay, and

the innermost bar is slightlyhigher than the outer one, so as -tov form :a gage, against for'the purpose.l l p V These parts thus constitute a'support-for` the vwork to b e sewed, and serve, at the same time, to protect the `needle andawl, as well vas the uppers, frominjury, and -to ,form a guidev engage' to determine `the distance from the upper, or from the edge olf the sole, that the n'eel11{le'and awl shall enter. in performingtheir wor The support here shown is'peculiarly'adapt.

' within its recess the under'- .th read,"4 or the `thread-fed from thebobbin M, when stretched across the opening in the' support.

ed to the sewing ot' solesyand it consists of two bars, slightlycurved on ftop, leaving" anj intermediate, space between them, which iswide enough to allow of 'the awhafter it shall .have-'penetrated the materials' to be sewed,

to slide sidewise within the two bars a dis-` tance equalthe length ofthe stitches. v

At the outer end of the supporta hook, k,

may be applied, for the attachment-to it of the .endot' the lunder thread, if two-threads be used, vand it is so arrangerhin relation to the Vslot in the.l support, that the'thre'ad, when broughtunder proper ten-sion, shall cross, with` in,v the slot, the path of the forked needle.

The sewing mechanism-here shown consists o f the followingthree principal moving parts, viz: First, the a-.wl or. piercing-instrument H,

curved concentrically-with the shaft h, upon which --the oscillating lever crawl-stock I, which'carriesthe awl, is mounted. This'awlstock is actuated from the main cog-wheel or disk by ineans'of a: rod 'connected therewith eccentrically, at J ,-the other end of said rod b'eingprovided with a transverse pin, having `play within4 the curved slot in the end of the. 4:wvl-stock, so that when rotary motion is given to the d'isk-wheel'E, the pin l, on the connectin g-rod, will first lodge in the extmme recess in the rear of the curved slot of the' a'wl-stock, andearry the lever-end backward, and there- :by causetheawl to penetrate the material to be sewed. Agt this'moment, and while in .the

leather, the afsvlv is ycaused to travel sidewise,

being 'actuated by a feed-bar, which consti-- -tutes part ofthe feeding mechanism, of which mention will-hereafter befmade'.l During this vlateral motion vthe connecting-rod is' pushed forward, its plu advancing lin the slot ofthe lever, without,- however, imparting 'motion to it until it reaches the front end of the slot,

when, by its further forward motion, it causes theawlto disengage from :the material, and to reassume the positionv which it is to occupy 'previous' to its again piercing the leatherofrv material tobe sewed' Y tion of, or are/directly' connecte driving-mechanism. .Bysuch means great power is obtained, and' both awl 'andneedl'e Seeond,nfthe needle or thread carrying.de-y vice K, a penetrating though not piereingin- `strument. 'It is farranged so as to act inl a direction opposite to the direction in which the awl acts-.that is'to say, supposing' the awllto enter the work from the upper side, as

'it does in the present ease, the needle, as the awl is Withdrawn', en ters and passes up throu gh the work from the lowerv side.v l'It is vattached toa needle stocker lever, (see Fig.. 6,) which,

in this instance, ismountedjupon the same shaft'h as that upon which the awl-stoek is -1nounted, yso. that bothneedle and ,'awl have motion around the'same center of revolution or oscillation. The longer arm of the needlest'ockis 4vconnected with lthe rod'` L, and the needle is operated in the same. manner as the awl,` except that it has no sliding motion. The v n eedleis curved concentrically with its center `of oscillation', and its point,jin the present 1nstance, is'forli'edin sucha manner as to seize It will be seen that forthe' purposes ofthe Work which this -machine is'designed toperform,.partienlarly when applied to the sewing' of the-welt .to the inner sole', which necessitates that the need-le shalll pass' through partof the thickness of the sole, instead 'of passing through vthe whole th iclness,the needle and awl should travel in a curvilinear path of such extent as to 'describe anfare 'of a circle not much less than thirty degrees.I Tothis'end the piercing and thread carrying-instruments are curved concentrieally, each with its center of oseillatiomand Ithe stocks. or levers to which .they are attached lreceive the diret applicawith, the

can'travel through their extended path, and are driven withease through material'which vit would be'otherwise diiiicult, if not impracticable, to penetrate. i

With' the' employment ofvins'trulnentalities, f such as above described, it is practicable to .makeby machinery a Weltedv boot or'shoe. By their ilse, the' welt, upper, and .insole can be sewed together,- andthe` welt ,and outer sole united in substantially the same manneri-n" which these 4operations are vperformed vby' hand, such results being due tothe peculiar movement'ot' the'p'iercin g .andthread-carryinginstruments. 'And so, also, in sewing the sole and .-upper, thenseam'g/can be made'through only part of the thickness of the sole, both aw] and needle entering the channel usually 'formed'thereimas will be f/ll y understood by thoseacquainted with the artto `which this d invention relates. l

, lThi-rd, the rotary hook'N derives its motion from themmain`wheel, .through the mediumof the series of gear-wheels' m, n, and o, Iwhich latter edmmuuicate's they lmotion tothe shaft on which-thehook is mounted.- p The' shank; of` ,thehook is shaped to conform with' the sta-j tiona'ry lentiform thread-case, around which it is caused to travel; and the hook is arranged to operate in conjunction with the forked needle, so that the -thread carried through the material to be sewed is seized by it, and, in the form of a loop, is carried over and around the thread-case. 1

Besides these parts, which constitute the principal elements of the sewing mechanism, there is a thread case, and a feeding and thread-controlling device,'which will no'w be described: The thread-case is composed of two shells, q r, hinged together and open at one side, so that the spools which the case is intended to contain may at any time be seen. Oneof the shells is perforatedA for .the passage of the thread. The case is held loosely in position by means of two side cups, the one slightly pressing 4the case against the other. The second cup is rendered adjustable by means of the bar working inthe bracket s, to which it is securely fixed by means of the setscrew s. ,The thread, when taken otl the forked needle, is carried over and around the lenticular case, by passing between its holding-cups. v

The feeding mechanism may vary according to the kind of work, and to coliform with the general arrangement ofthe machine. In this machine it is similar to what is known as the.

needlefeed, and may be termed, in connection with the machine, the awl-feed.

' To the shaft Vcarrying the gear-wheel m is attached a cam-disk, z, located within the front part of the standardfframe. This camdisk is constructed to actuate the short end of the feed-bar, and thereby cause the sai'd bar Jto-vibrate on the pivot t. The lower end of the feed is shaped into a fork, which embraces the ,rocking-shaft, upon which, as axis, the awl and the needle rotate. "A spring, u, is

provided to bear the short end of the feed-bar against the cam-disk, and a set-screw, y, located in a suitable position, is arranged to limit the stroke of the feed-bar.

By turning, therefore, the main cog-wheel E, rotary motion wil-l be imparted to the camdisk, which, in its turn, will vibrate the feedbar between the limits determined by the p0- sitio'n of the cam-disk and that of the setscrew. By turning the set-screw to the right or left, it may be made to project more or less, and thereby give the bar more ory less vibratory travel. The forked end of the feedfbar bears against the side of the awl-stock, which, being free to slide laterally upon its axis, is thus caused to eii'ect the feed.

The cam-disk being timed to actuate the leed-bar when the aw] shall have penetrated the material to be sewed,'it will be under.

stood that the material is dragged sidewise;

a distance determined by the length of .the stitches.

The lateral movement of the awl is detervmined, first, by the stop or set-screw, which fixes the limit' of its back-stroke; second, by the cam-d1sk,whicl1 causes it to advance, and,

when at its extreme stroke, to remain stationary until the forked needle,- which is now di rectly opposite the awl, shall have come up to the material. As the needle advances the awl recedes, and thereby allows the needle with its thread to comeup through the holepuuched by the awl.

The thread on theneedle forms an open loop, Whichis caught by the rotary hook N the moment the needle has reached the extreme end of its upward and forward motion. The loop, thus caught by the rotary hook, is distended by being brought into contact with the curved surface of the lenticular case, and, by being thrown over the stationary thread-case, takes up the loose thread supplied by said case, and is locked by the underthread loop being drawn up in the following manner: The under thread, which is wound over a large bobbin, M, is properly conveyed over a system of pulleys or other guidin'g'devices, to the eye W, in the end of the lever L l f The operation ofthe parts is such that 'the eye with its lever occupies the extreme position in rear when the loop iscast off the threadcase. -At this moment the lever advances,

and by so doing draws on the loose thread of n 'the disengaged loop, and/takes up the slack.

To better insure this action and to prevent the friction of the thread inthe material from overcoming the tension of the thread derived from the bobbin, whereby, instead of taking up the slack it would draw more thread from the bob# n bin, the latter receives increased friction during the time the awl-lever is engaged in drawing up the slack thread. This is effected bythe employment of an internal friction -brake,

shown in Figs. 4 and 5, and operated from the outside by means of a latch, or its equivalent. The frictiondevice consists of .two hinged clamps, m, claspingthe shaft, or a sleeve, fast on sai-d shaft, when expanded by a wedge driven or pushed in from the outside.

In the accompanying drawingsthe'wedge' is shown operated by a latch, beveled on one side, so that it will be depressed. and operate the wed-ge when the gear-wheel is rotated in its proper direction, but will stop the machine lwhen rotated in the contrary direction.

Instead of this-friction-drum, other devices may be employed, or, indeed, friction devices, as appliedito the hobbin, may be dispensed with altogether. V- Y v A second. lever, or any other take-up or thread-controlling device may be used as well, and, in some instances, with bettere'ect.

In' Fig. 12 is shown the machine complete, and combined Withan ordinary sewingmachine, or a sewing-machine,constructed according to this invention', but differently arranged,'so as to be adapted to stitching, &e.

In the several figures in plate 2 is represented a machine modified as last hereinbefore mentioned. The stationary thread-case with its rotary carrier is located underneath the table. The hook is fixed upon a hollow shaft, which is mounted and rotates on the cup-spindle. .'rlhe. middle gear-wheel b. transmits the movements to the upper and lower vgear-Wheels a and c, which operate, respectv ively', the needle-bar and therotary hook and 'feed-wheel. Theylatter'i's actuated bya vibratiuglever, d, whosemiotions are derived from an eccentric, e, fast .on the hook-shaft.

The two machines may be mounted in one frame, and upon one plate, andy movement.

may be transmitted toeither fromone pinion.

. Having now described 'the nature 'of these improvements, and themanner in which the same are or may be carried into effect, what is claimed as the invention of the' said AUGUS1 T Us QEs'roUY, is as follows:

l; The combination, in a sewing mechanism, of a needle, or equivalent instrument,"

carrying the thread through the material to.' be sewd,. with an independent piercing -instrument,'when both have motion upon a com-' moucenter of-l oscillationor revolution, substantially asset forth.

2. The combination of a needle and an a-wl or piercing-instrument, bothloperating onza common axis of revolution or oscillation, withv a support holding in the path of both the `workI to be sewed, substantially as set forth; 3. The oscillatory needle or awl stock, driven by the direct and positive action of the driving; inech'a'nislmso .that the needle may describe an arc of a; circlenot less than thirty degrees, substantially as and for the purposes' described.

4. A sewing mechanism, adapted tounite,

".liynmachiner-'the upper, Weigand sole, sub'- zstantiallygas described,- so'as topreduce a machine-made welted boot or shoe.

.v The combination -of a'. Asewingmechauisin and a support -for the work to'be sewed, ar-

. ranged, in relationto leach other, substantial- ,.ly as described, so that the seam uniting the upperand the sole may be made throughv part of. the thickness of the sole.`

6. The support, .arran ged substantially as herein shown and described,so as to serre as a rest upon which they Work will" slide, a sewing-gage to regulate the distance ofthe stitches from theupper or from the edge of the` sole,

and-also as a guard or shield, to prevent the l awl and needle from marking or injuring the surface-'of thevuppers," substantially as .set y forth. l 7.'Tl1e combination, in av sewing. mechanisni, of a-circularly-curved awl with a circalarly-curved'needle, substantially as and for thepurposes described.

In testimony whereof w-e'lxaveherennto set our hands in the presence of two subscribing'.

witnesses.

" LEAS. GOODYEAR, JR.

'FRANCIS DU BOIS..

FREDERICK RENAUD.

. 'HENRY T. CLOSE.v

Witnesses :,4

'JOHN H. Hicks', WILLIAM GIBBoNs.

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