US381987A - Sewing-machine for connecting soles and uppers - Google Patents
Sewing-machine for connecting soles and uppers Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US381987A US381987A US381987DA US381987A US 381987 A US381987 A US 381987A US 381987D A US381987D A US 381987DA US 381987 A US381987 A US 381987A
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- United States
- Prior art keywords
- needle
- knife
- cam
- rest
- sole
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- 210000002105 Tongue Anatomy 0.000 description 30
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 18
- 210000001699 lower leg Anatomy 0.000 description 10
- 230000000994 depressed Effects 0.000 description 8
- 210000001847 Jaw Anatomy 0.000 description 6
- 230000003534 oscillatory Effects 0.000 description 6
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000006011 modification reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 4
- 101700078171 KNTC1 Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 238000005266 casting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001419 dependent Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000149 penetrating Effects 0.000 description 2
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
Definitions
- PETEE A COUPAL, OF-BOSTON, AND JOSEPH COUPAL, OF QUINCY, MASSA- oHUsETTs, ASSIGNORS To THE LEATHER LOOK SEWING MACHINE ASSO- OIATION, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.
- PETER. A COUPAL, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk, and JOSEPH GOUPAL, ofQuincy, in the county of Norfolk,
- This invention has for its object to provide improved mechanism for securing uppers to soles of turned shoes by stitches or loops of thread passed through the upper and'through a portion of the sole and locked by tongues of leather cut in one of the sides of the sole, as shown in Letters Patent No. 212,828, granted to T. K. Keith May 31, 1881.
- the present invention consists, first, in the combination, with a curved oscillating needle and devices cooperating therewith to form, release, and take up or tighten loops of thread, of an independent knife adapted to form tongues of leather on the sole of aturned shoe presented to the machine and mechanism whereby the knife is moved alternately into and out of the path in which the needle moves, the arrangement being such that the knife advances to the sole and cuts a tongue therein while the needle is raised, the needle in entering the Work passing under said tongue and in leaving the work drawing out a loop which is afterward cast off and interlocked with the tongue.
- the invention also consists in certain improvements in the mechanism for casting off and taking up the loops and for supporting and feeding the shoe, all of which we will now proceed to describe and claim.
- Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a machine embodying our invention.
- Fig. Z represents afront elevation of the same.
- Fig. 3 represents an elevation of the opposite side of the machine from that 5 shown in Fig. 1.
- Fig. 4. represents an elevation of a portion of the machine at the left of the line a, Fig. 1.
- Fig. 5 represents a section on line m m, Fig. 4-.
- Fig. 6 represents a section on line 3 y, Fig. 5.
- Fig. 7 represents a section on line 2 2
- Fig. 8 represents a section on line or 00, Fig. 7.
- Fig. 10 represents an enlarged section on line 3 3 Fig. 1.
- Figs. 11, 12, and 13, 14, and 15 represent perspective views of parts of the machine and a portion of a turned and lasted shoe presented thereto.
- Fig. 16 represents a side elevation of the feed-dog and its supporting-arm and a sectional view of a part of its operating mech- 6o anism.
- Figs. 17, 18, and 19 are bottom views of the cast-off and needle.
- Fig. 20 represents a side view of the needle and cast-off in the position they occupy just before the loop is cast off.
- Fig. 21 represents a section on line 6 m 00 Fig.
- Fig. 22 represents a side view of the needle and castoff in the position they occupy after the loop has been cast off.
- Fig. 23 represents a section on line 50 00 Fig. 22.
- Figs. 24, 25, and 26 represent a modification.
- a represents the supporting-frame of the mechanism to be described. Journaled in bearings in said frame is a drivingshaft, Z), to which are afiixed the cams that give motion to the operative parts of the machine.
- 0 represents the curved needle, which has a hook or barb and is curved in the arc of a circle, and is oscillated on a center or axis 8a which is the center of said are, as usual in machines for sewing turned or welted shoes.
- the oscillatory needle-arm d which carries the needle, is mounted on a fixed stud or bearing, e, affixed to the frame a, and is oscillated on said stud by a slide, f, adapted to move vertically in a guide in the frame a through the action of a cam-groove, g, in a disk, h, affixed to the driving-shaft b, said groove receiving a stud or roller on the slidef, and a connecting-rod, i, pivoted to the lower end 'of the slidef and to the needle-arm d, and communicating the movements of the slide to the needle-arm.
- j represents a V shaped knife or cutter, which is formed on or attached to a shank, k.
- Said shank is attached by screws Z Z, Fig. 11, to a hub, m, which is journaled on the stud e, on which the needle-arm d is also journaled, and is capable both of oscillating and of moving too laterally on said stud, so that the knife can be first moved laterally into the path through which the needle moves, (but while the needle is elevated or drawn back,) then moved forward in the are of a circle and in the same path in which the needle afterward moves in entering the work, thus striking and cutting a tongue, at, in the side of the sole of the shoe being acted on by the machine, then withdrawn from the sole by a backward movement in the are of a circle, and finally moved laterally away from the path in which the needle moves.
- the described movements are imparted to the hub m and knivesj by the following devices, viz: First, a lever, 0, having a slot, 1), engaged with a stud, g, on the hub m, and pivoted at 1', Fig. 1, to a stud, s, which is journaled in a bracket, t, on the frame a, the lever 0 being adapted to oscillate on the pivot 1' in a plane parallel with the path in which the needle moves, and with the studs in a plane at right angles with said path; secondly, a cam, a, on the periphery of the disk 71 thirdly, a spring, I), which holds one arm of the forked upper end of said lever in contact with said disk, the cam a and spring I) conjointly giving the hub c and knife j the described lateral movements; fourthly, a cam, c, Fig.
- e represents a rest or gage against which the shoe is held during the stitching operation
- f represents a pointed feed-dog or short aw], which co-operates with the gage or rest in feeding the work.
- the rest and dog are attached, respectively, to arms 9 7z,which are mounted to oscillate independently on a stud or center, 2', common to both.
- Said stud is attached to an ear forming a part of aplate or swing-piece,j, which is pivoted at it to the frame of the maehine,and is oscillated in a plane parallel with the direction of the feedmovement of the work by a cam, Z, on the driving-shaft b, (said eain being within an aperture in the swing-piece, as shown in Fig.
- the rest e and dogf are oscillated in opposite directions on the stud i", and are thus caused to alternately approach and recede from each other to grasp and release the work by a slide, 12, Figs. 4 and 5, adapted to move vertically in a guide in the swing-piece j, two links, q r, connecting the lower end of said slide, respectively, to the upper ends of the arms 9 h, supporting the rest and dog, and a cam-groove, s, in a disk, t, on the drivingshaft, said groove receiving a stud on the slide 1).
- the slide 12 is reciprocated vertically by the rotation of the disk t, and through the links q r oscillates the arms h'g, and thus causes the rest a and dog f to approach and recede from each other.
- a rest Between the dogf and rest a is a rest, a Fig. 3, which supports the work against the upward pressure, and thus keeps it down at the proper point.
- a plate or flange To the rest a is attached a plate or flange, 0 which keeps the edge of the upper from being turned over onto the sole.
- the looper 0 represents the looper, which consists of an arm pivoted to a bracket, d", in the frame a, the swinging end of said arm having an orifiee,through which thethread passes.
- a lever, e To the pivoted or inner end of the arm 0 is rigidly attached a lever, e", having a slot, which receivesa pin, f, on the swing-piece
- the oscillations of said swing-piece cause the pin f to oscillate the arm 0 and the looper thereto attached, and thus cause said looper to swing the thread against the needle when the latter is advanced, as hereinafter described.
- the east-off is composed of an arm, 9", having a longitudinal curvature approximating that of the needle and slotted longitudinally so that it can pass over the needle, as herein after described, and provided with two fingers IlO orjaws, h" h, which are pressed through holes in its sides into its needle-receiving slot by springs 1" 1, attached to the outer sides of the east-off, said jaws passing through holes in the sides of the east-ot't'and co operating to grasp the thread on the needle when the latter is within the eastoff.
- the devices which operate the east-off are as follows, viz: a slide or plate, j, to which the cast-oil is attached, a cam, It", on a disk, P, on the driving-shaft b, a spring, m, which presses the upper end of said slide upwardly against the disk Z a lever, n pivoted at 0 to an car on the frame a, (the slide j being supported by said lever and adapted to slide thereon by means of slots 1) p in the slide, and screws q q on the lever,) a cam, a", on the rear edge of the disk Z and a spring, 8', which presses the upper end of the lever it against the rear edge of the disk I.
- the lever n" is oscillated by the cam r" and spring 8 in a plane parallel with that in which the needle moves,
- the take-up is composed of a lever, 25 pivoted at a to the frame a, and having at its lower end aroller, b around which the thread passes to and through the looper c.
- the upper end of the lever t is pressed by a spring, 0 against a cam, d, on the edge of the disk 15 on the driving-shaft.
- the thread passes from the supplying spool or ball over the roller b and from thence over aroller, e journaled on a fixed bearing, and from the roller e to the looper 0
- the oscillations of the lever t are caused by the cam d and spring 0 moves the roller bf toward and from the roller 6
- the movement of the roller b away from the roller 6 causes a backward pull on thethread, and thus takes up the loops after they are disengaged from the needle by the cast off as hereinafter described.
- the rest f represents a rest or support, which is arranged to bear against the upper at a point below the sole, and is operative or rigid only when the needle is entering the work, the said rest being unsupported and allowed to yield when the work is being fed.
- the rest f is composed of an arm or lever pivoted at g to the frame a, its lower or swinging end projecting outwardly to a point below the path in which the needle moves.
- the lever f is intermittingly supported in position to cause its swinging end to act as a rest for the work by a cam, h which is pivoted at i to the frame of the machine, and is alternately raised and lowered by lever f, pivoted at k to the frame a, and connected by a rod, F, to the cam h a cam, in, on the rear side of the disk t, and a spring, 47?, which forces the upper end of the lever 9' against the cam.
- a cam h which is pivoted at i to the frame of the machine, and is alternately raised and lowered by lever f, pivoted at k to the frame a, and connected by a rod, F, to the cam h a cam, in, on the rear side of the disk t, and a spring, 47?, which forces the upper end of the lever 9' against the cam.
- the cam is raised by the described devices, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and thus caused to hold the lever or rest while the needle is moving forward,and the cam is depressed and caused to release the lever or rest f while the work is being fed.
- the spring a enables the cam to be arrested at any desired point in its upward movement by the contact of the work with the lower or restf so that the rest conforms to the shape of the shoe and projects more or less when supported by the cam, according to the part of the shoe that is pre sented to it.
- the cam is serrated or rough ened,so thatjt will not slip or yield under the pressure exerted on the rest by the shoe.
- the operation is as follows: The lasted shoe is held by the operator against the gage or rest 6 and the top rest, a. The needle after its backward movement remains briefly at rest in the position shown in Figs. 1, 14, and 20. Just before the forward orwork-penetrating movement of the needle the hub m, with the knife thereto attached, is moved laterally until the knife stands directly in front of the point of the needle, and is then given quick forward and backward movements in the are of a circle, thus causing the knife to move through the path in which the needle afterward moves, and first make a V-shaped incision of gradually-increasing depth in the sole, thus forming a tongue, at, and then withdraw from'the sole.
- the hub and knife are then moved laterally to withdraw the knife from the path through which the needle moves.
- the needle advances, and, entering the incision formed by the knife, penetrates the sole and upper, thus making a hole from said incision through the edge of the sole and the portion of the upperlaid thereon.
- the looper t swings upwardly and presses the thread against the barbed side of the needle.
- the needle then moves backwardly and draws a loop of thread through the upper and sole and through the incision made by the knifein the sole.
- the cast off swings forward and upward until its forward end passes into the loop, and its slot or opening receives the needle, as shown in Fig. 20.
- gage or rest 0 and dog f which were separated and moved to the right in Fig. 1 by the swing-platej andslide p, are now moved toward each other and caused to grasp the work while the needle is withdrawing therefrom, the dog f penetrating the exposed sur- IlC face of the sole and pressing the edgeof the sole and the upper laid thereon toward the gage or rest.
- the gage or rest and dogwhile grasping the work are moved by the swing-plate to the left, and are thus caused to feed the work.
- the knife operates and is followed by the needle, as above described.
- the knife is a device which is entirely distinct from the needle and moves independently thereof, the knife first standing outside of the path through which the needle moves, and then moving to out the sole and retreat therefrom before the needle enters the sole.
- the depth of the out made by the knife is therefore not dependent on the'needle, and the knife can be made of any desired form and size.
- Figs. 24, 25, and 26 we have shown means whereby the knife is move to and from the sole by a movement produced by swinging the shank supporting the knife on a vertical axis, and at the same time giving said shank a vertical movement on the said axis, the vertical move ment being downward when the knife is moving toward the sole and upward when the knife is withdrawing.
- the knife is thus given a winding or spiral motion from its point of rest outside of the path in which the needle moves into said path at the point where the needle enters the sole.
- the shank 7c of the knife is attached eccentrically to the lower end of a cylindrical sleeve
- sleeve 11 In the sleeve 11 is a spiral slot, 8 which receives a stud, t affixed to the frame a.
- the oscilla' tions of the lever o cause the slide r and the knife supporting sleeve 1), journaled therein, to reciprocate vertically, and at the same time the engagement of the spiral slot in said sleeve with the fixed stud t gives the sleeve a rotary motion while it is moving vertically, the result being a winding or spiral movement of the knife, which is eccentrically attached to the sleeve 19.
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Description
.(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 1.
P. A. & J. OOUP'AL. SEWING MAGHINE FOR CONNECTING sous AND UPPERS.
No. 381,987. Patented May 1, 1888.
N. PETERS. P'nowLRhogr-mpher, Waihlngiun. D. c
- (No Model.) H 9 Sheets-Sheet 2. Y i P. A. &.J. OOUPAL.
SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNECTING SOLES AND UPPERS. 'N0.'-381-,98'7. I Patented Me 1, 1888.
INVENT s. a Y
N PETERS. Phew-Lhna np e.
(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 3.
P. A. & J. GOUPAL. SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNECTING SOLES AND UPPERS.
No. 381,987. w Patented May 1 1888. v
v T N E5 CAS qua Rina 0/ N. PETERS. Pholo-Lifiwgrapher, wumn mn, n. c,
(No Model.) 9 Sheets- Sheet 4.
P. & J. GOUPAL. SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNEGTING SOLBS AND UPPBRS.
N0.' 381,987. 70 Patented May 1, 1888.
EEEEEEE Pmoiilhngraphur. Wiihinglon. D. C
9 Sheets-Sheet 5.
' (No Model.)
P. A. & J. GOUPAL. 'SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNECTING SOLBS AND UPPERS. No. 381,987.
W4 /V In ==iwz w y e M d e M e m P i J AF .0 a
P.. A. &'J, GOUPAL. SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNECTING SOLES AND UPPERS- No; 381,987.
, .9 Sheets-Sheet 6.
(No Model.)
' Patented May 1, 1888. 8
7 (No' Model.) I I I P. A. OOU E NG MACHINE FOB. EUTI PAL NG SOLES AND UPPERS. No. .987. Patented May 1, 1888.
'9 Sheets-Sheet 7.
IQECMOAQW? v (No Model.) 7 I 9 sheets sheet s;
A. & J. 0 PAL. r SEWING MA NE FOR 00mm T NG SOLES ANDZUPPBRS. N0. 381,98'7'. 1 Patented May 1, 1888.
Fig. 21'; I F 26- N PETERS, Phowlllhogmphcr. w nnn nnnnn c.
9 Sheets-Sheet 9.
(No Model.)
P; A.& J. COUPAL, SEWING MACHINE FOR CONNECTING SOLES AND UBPB'RS.
v "No. 381,987. Patented May 1, 1888.
WITNESSES;-
- UNITED TATES 1 ATENT QFFICE.
PETEE A." COUPAL, OF-BOSTON, AND JOSEPH COUPAL, OF QUINCY, MASSA- oHUsETTs, ASSIGNORS To THE LEATHER LOOK SEWING MACHINE ASSO- OIATION, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.
SEWlNG-MACHlNE FOR CONNECTING SOLES AND UPPERS.
SPECIFICATION forming partof Letters Patent No. 381,987, dated May 1, 1888.
Application filed April 30, 1886. Serial No. 900,674. (No model.)
To all whom it may concern.-
Be it known that we, PETER. A. COUPAL, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk, and JOSEPH GOUPAL, ofQuincy, in the county of Norfolk,
both in the State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines forConnecting Soles and Uppers, of which the following is a specification.
[O This invention has for its object to provide improved mechanism for securing uppers to soles of turned shoes by stitches or loops of thread passed through the upper and'through a portion of the sole and locked by tongues of leather cut in one of the sides of the sole, as shown in Letters Patent No. 212,828, granted to T. K. Keith May 31, 1881.
The present invention consists, first, in the combination, with a curved oscillating needle and devices cooperating therewith to form, release, and take up or tighten loops of thread, of an independent knife adapted to form tongues of leather on the sole of aturned shoe presented to the machine and mechanism whereby the knife is moved alternately into and out of the path in which the needle moves, the arrangement being such that the knife advances to the sole and cuts a tongue therein while the needle is raised, the needle in entering the Work passing under said tongue and in leaving the work drawing out a loop which is afterward cast off and interlocked with the tongue.
The invention also consists in certain improvements in the mechanism for casting off and taking up the loops and for supporting and feeding the shoe, all of which we will now proceed to describe and claim.
Of the accompanying drawings, forming a 0 part of this specification,'Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a machine embodying our invention. Fig. Zrepresentsafront elevation of the same. Fig. 3 represents an elevation of the opposite side of the machine from that 5 shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 4. represents an elevation of a portion of the machine at the left of the line a, Fig. 1. Fig. 5 representsa section on line m m, Fig. 4-. Fig. 6 represents a section on line 3 y, Fig. 5. Fig. 7 represents a section on line 2 2, Fig. 9. Fig. 8 represents a section on line or 00, Fig. 7. Fig. 9 repre sents an elevation of a'portion of the machine at the left oft-he line a, Fig.1. Fig. 10 represents an enlarged section on line 3 3 Fig. 1. Figs. 11, 12, and 13, 14, and 15 represent perspective views of parts of the machine and a portion of a turned and lasted shoe presented thereto. Fig. 16 represents a side elevation of the feed-dog and its supporting-arm and a sectional view of a part of its operating mech- 6o anism. Figs. 17, 18, and 19 are bottom views of the cast-off and needle. Fig. 20 represents a side view of the needle and cast-off in the position they occupy just before the loop is cast off. Fig. 21 represents a section on line 6 m 00 Fig. 20, looking downwardly. Fig. 22 represents a side view of the needle and castoff in the position they occupy after the loop has been cast off. Fig. 23 represents a section on line 50 00 Fig. 22. Figs. 24, 25, and 26 represent a modification.
In the drawings, a represents the supporting-frame of the mechanism to be described. Journaled in bearings in said frame is a drivingshaft, Z), to which are afiixed the cams that give motion to the operative parts of the machine.
0 represents the curved needle, which has a hook or barb and is curved in the arc of a circle, and is oscillated on a center or axis 8a which is the center of said are, as usual in machines for sewing turned or welted shoes. The oscillatory needle-arm d, which carries the needle, is mounted on a fixed stud or bearing, e, affixed to the frame a, and is oscillated on said stud by a slide, f, adapted to move vertically in a guide in the frame a through the action of a cam-groove, g, in a disk, h, affixed to the driving-shaft b, said groove receiving a stud or roller on the slidef, and a connecting-rod, i, pivoted to the lower end 'of the slidef and to the needle-arm d, and communicating the movements of the slide to the needle-arm.
j represents a V shaped knife or cutter, which is formed on or attached to a shank, k. Said shank is attached by screws Z Z, Fig. 11, to a hub, m, which is journaled on the stud e, on which the needle-arm d is also journaled, and is capable both of oscillating and of moving too laterally on said stud, so that the knife can be first moved laterally into the path through which the needle moves, (but while the needle is elevated or drawn back,) then moved forward in the are of a circle and in the same path in which the needle afterward moves in entering the work, thus striking and cutting a tongue, at, in the side of the sole of the shoe being acted on by the machine, then withdrawn from the sole by a backward movement in the are of a circle, and finally moved laterally away from the path in which the needle moves. All this takes place while the needle is elevated or drawn back from the work, so that when the needle descends it will follow the knife and enter the incision formed by the knife in cutting the tongue in the sole, and in returning will draw a loop of thread through the sole and under said tongue, said loop being afterward cast off and interlocked with the tongue, all as explained more fully hereinafter.
The described movements are imparted to the hub m and knivesj by the following devices, viz: First, a lever, 0, having a slot, 1), engaged with a stud, g, on the hub m, and pivoted at 1', Fig. 1, to a stud, s, which is journaled in a bracket, t, on the frame a, the lever 0 being adapted to oscillate on the pivot 1' in a plane parallel with the path in which the needle moves, and with the studs in a plane at right angles with said path; secondly, a cam, a, on the periphery of the disk 71 thirdly, a spring, I), which holds one arm of the forked upper end of said lever in contact with said disk, the cam a and spring I) conjointly giving the hub c and knife j the described lateral movements; fourthly, a cam, c, Fig. 1, on the rear edge of the disk 71; and, fifthly, a spring, at, which presses the other arm of the forked upper end of the lever 0 against the rear edge of the disk h, the cam c and spring d co-operating to give the hub e and knifej the described oscillating movements. It is obvious that the movements of the lever may be produced by positive means, as by cam-grooves engaging studs on the forked end of said lever.
e represents a rest or gage against which the shoe is held during the stitching operation, andf represents a pointed feed-dog or short aw], which co-operates with the gage or rest in feeding the work. The rest and dog are attached, respectively, to arms 9 7z,which are mounted to oscillate independently on a stud or center, 2', common to both. Said stud is attached to an ear forming a part of aplate or swing-piece,j, which is pivoted at it to the frame of the maehine,and is oscillated in a plane parallel with the direction of the feedmovement of the work by a cam, Z, on the driving-shaft b, (said eain being within an aperture in the swing-piece, as shown in Fig. 4,) and a spring, at, Fig. 6, interposed between the frame a and an car on the swing-piecej, saidspringpressing theswing-piece outwardly against an adjustable nut, a, on a pin, 0', af-
fixed to the frame a and passing through the spring m and an orifice in the swing-piece. The nut it, therefore, serves as an adjustable stop to limit the movement of the swing-piece by the spring in.
The rest e and dogf are oscillated in opposite directions on the stud i", and are thus caused to alternately approach and recede from each other to grasp and release the work by a slide, 12, Figs. 4 and 5, adapted to move vertically in a guide in the swing-piece j, two links, q r, connecting the lower end of said slide, respectively, to the upper ends of the arms 9 h, supporting the rest and dog, and a cam-groove, s, in a disk, t, on the drivingshaft, said groove receiving a stud on the slide 1). The slide 12 is reciprocated vertically by the rotation of the disk t, and through the links q r oscillates the arms h'g, and thus causes the rest a and dog f to approach and recede from each other.
Between the dogf and rest a is a rest, a Fig. 3, which supports the work against the upward pressure, and thus keeps it down at the proper point. To the rest a is attached a plate or flange, 0 which keeps the edge of the upper from being turned over onto the sole.
0 represents the looper, which consists of an arm pivoted to a bracket, d", in the frame a, the swinging end of said arm having an orifiee,through which thethread passes. To the pivoted or inner end of the arm 0 is rigidly attached a lever, e", having a slot, which receivesa pin, f, on the swing-piece The oscillations of said swing-piece cause the pin f to oscillate the arm 0 and the looper thereto attached, and thus cause said looper to swing the thread against the needle when the latter is advanced, as hereinafter described.
The east-off is composed of an arm, 9", having a longitudinal curvature approximating that of the needle and slotted longitudinally so that it can pass over the needle, as herein after described, and provided with two fingers IlO orjaws, h" h, which are pressed through holes in its sides into its needle-receiving slot by springs 1" 1, attached to the outer sides of the east-off, said jaws passing through holes in the sides of the east-ot't'and co operating to grasp the thread on the needle when the latter is within the eastoff.
The devices which operate the east-off are as follows, viz: a slide or plate, j, to which the cast-oil is attached, a cam, It", on a disk, P, on the driving-shaft b, a spring, m, which presses the upper end of said slide upwardly against the disk Z a lever, n pivoted at 0 to an car on the frame a, (the slide j being supported by said lever and adapted to slide thereon by means of slots 1) p in the slide, and screws q q on the lever,) a cam, a", on the rear edge of the disk Z and a spring, 8', which presses the upper end of the lever it against the rear edge of the disk I. The lever n" is oscillated by the cam r" and spring 8 in a plane parallel with that in which the needle moves,
and the slide j with the cast-off thereon,oscillates with the lever a, besides being independently moved by the action of the cam k and springjfl The take-up is composed of a lever, 25 pivoted at a to the frame a, and having at its lower end aroller, b around which the thread passes to and through the looper c. The upper end of the lever t is pressed by a spring, 0 against a cam, d, on the edge of the disk 15 on the driving-shaft. The thread passes from the supplying spool or ball over the roller b and from thence over aroller, e journaled on a fixed bearing, and from the roller e to the looper 0 The oscillations of the lever t are caused by the cam d and spring 0 moves the roller bf toward and from the roller 6 The movement of the roller b away from the roller 6 causes a backward pull on thethread, and thus takes up the loops after they are disengaged from the needle by the cast off as hereinafter described.
f represents a rest or support, which is arranged to bear against the upper at a point below the sole, and is operative or rigid only when the needle is entering the work, the said rest being unsupported and allowed to yield when the work is being fed. The rest f is composed of an arm or lever pivoted at g to the frame a, its lower or swinging end projecting outwardly to a point below the path in which the needle moves. The lever f is intermittingly supported in position to cause its swinging end to act as a rest for the work by a cam, h which is pivoted at i to the frame of the machine, and is alternately raised and lowered by lever f, pivoted at k to the frame a, and connected by a rod, F, to the cam h a cam, in, on the rear side of the disk t, and a spring, 47?, which forces the upper end of the lever 9' against the cam.
The cam is raised by the described devices, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and thus caused to hold the lever or rest while the needle is moving forward,and the cam is depressed and caused to release the lever or rest f while the work is being fed. The spring a enables the cam to be arrested at any desired point in its upward movement by the contact of the work with the lower or restf so that the rest conforms to the shape of the shoe and projects more or less when supported by the cam, according to the part of the shoe that is pre sented to it. The cam is serrated or rough ened,so thatjt will not slip or yield under the pressure exerted on the rest by the shoe.
The operation is as follows: The lasted shoe is held by the operator against the gage or rest 6 and the top rest, a. The needle after its backward movement remains briefly at rest in the position shown in Figs. 1, 14, and 20. Just before the forward orwork-penetrating movement of the needle the hub m, with the knife thereto attached, is moved laterally until the knife stands directly in front of the point of the needle, and is then given quick forward and backward movements in the are of a circle, thus causing the knife to move through the path in which the needle afterward moves, and first make a V-shaped incision of gradually-increasing depth in the sole, thus forming a tongue, at, and then withdraw from'the sole. The hub and knife are then moved laterally to withdraw the knife from the path through which the needle moves. Next the needle advances, and, entering the incision formed by the knife, penetrates the sole and upper, thus making a hole from said incision through the edge of the sole and the portion of the upperlaid thereon. After the completion of the forward movement of the needle, the looper t swings upwardly and presses the thread against the barbed side of the needle. The needle then moves backwardly and draws a loop of thread through the upper and sole and through the incision made by the knifein the sole. Just before the close of the backward movement of the needle the cast off swings forward and upward until its forward end passes into the loop, and its slot or opening receives the needle, as shown in Fig. 20. the spring fingers or jaws If h of the cast-off being thus caused to cross the needle and stand at the upper side thereof, as shown in Fig. 20. The needle is then slightly depressed toloosen the loop, and then the east-off is depressed until'its spring fingers cross the needle, grasp the loop at a point close to the barb of the needle as shown in Fi 22 and move the loo a b p sufficiently to clear it from the barb. The take up then acts and draws in the slaekportion of the loop. The point or forward end of the cast-off projects over the tongue and throws or guides the loop over said tongue, so that the loop when taken up lies across and is locked by said tongue, as shown in Fig. 15. The gage or rest 0 and dog f, which were separated and moved to the right in Fig. 1 by the swing-platej andslide p, are now moved toward each other and caused to grasp the work while the needle is withdrawing therefrom, the dog f penetrating the exposed sur- IlC face of the sole and pressing the edgeof the sole and the upper laid thereon toward the gage or rest. After the loop has been cast off and interlocked with the tongue, as 'last described, and before the needle again enters the work, the gage or rest and dogwhile grasping the work are moved by the swing-plate to the left, and are thus caused to feed the work. At the close of the feed-movement the knife operates and is followed by the needle, as above described. While the needle is entering the work the gage e and dog f separate and move back to their starting position, the work being at this time supported by the restf and the cam h; The operation is thus continued until the rod 2', which connects the needle-arm d with the operating-slidefin two scctions,2 3,jointed together at at. When the rod 5 is in operative condition, the sections 2 3 arerigidly connected by a spring-arm, 5, attached to the section 3, and a pin, 6, on the free end of said .arm entering an orifice in the section 2. (See Figs. 8 and 9.)
When it is desired to draw back or raise the needle farther than it is raised in its operative movements, the springarm 5 is disengaged from the lower section and the two sections are thrown out of alignment, thus raising the needle arm and needle, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 9.
In Letters Patent of the United States No. 332,642, granted to us December 15, 1885, we have shown a machine in which a curved nee dle or a curved awl is provided with cutting wings or blades moving with the needle or awl, for the purpose of forming tongues on the surface of the sole penetrated by theneedle or aul.
It will be observed that in our present invention the knife is a device which is entirely distinct from the needle and moves independently thereof, the knife first standing outside of the path through which the needle moves, and then moving to out the sole and retreat therefrom before the needle enters the sole. The depth of the out made by the knife is therefore not dependent on the'needle, and the knife can be made of any desired form and size.
We do not limit ourselves to the described mechanism for operating the knife. In Figs. 24, 25, and 26 we have shown means whereby the knife is move to and from the sole by a movement produced by swinging the shank supporting the knife on a vertical axis, and at the same time giving said shank a vertical movement on the said axis, the vertical move ment being downward when the knife is moving toward the sole and upward when the knife is withdrawing. The knife is thus given a winding or spiral motion from its point of rest outside of the path in which the needle moves into said path at the point where the needle enters the sole. In this modification the shank 7c of the knife is attached eccentrically to the lower end of a cylindrical sleeve,
'0 which is 'ournaled on a vertical stud or I) 1? pin, q, affixed to a slide, 1- which is reciprocated vertically by means of a bell-crank lcver, 12, pivoted to the frame, and a cam-gr0ove,
10 in a disk on the drivingshaft, said groove receiving a stud or roller on the lever o. In the sleeve 11 is a spiral slot, 8 which receives a stud, t affixed to the frame a. The oscilla' tions of the lever o cause the slide r and the knife supporting sleeve 1), journaled therein, to reciprocate vertically, and at the same time the engagement of the spiral slot in said sleeve with the fixed stud t gives the sleeve a rotary motion while it is moving vertically, the result being a winding or spiral movement of the knife, which is eccentrically attached to the sleeve 19.
In another pending application filed August 20, 1887, Serial No. 24.7,445, we have claimed certain combinations of parts shown and described but not claimed in this application.
We claim- I 1. The combination, with the curved oscillating needle and loop releasing and taking up devices cooperating therewith, of an independent tongue-forming knife and mechanism whereby said knife is moved alternately into and out of the path in which the needle moves, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
2. The combination of the curved needle, mechanism to oscillate it, cast-ofi' and take-up devices and operating mechanism therefor, an independent tougue'forming knife, and mechanism alternating in its action with the operative mechanism of the needle, whereby the knife is moved alternately into and out of the path in which the needle moves, as set forth.
3. The combination, with the needle, the cast-0d and the takeup, and their operative mechanism, of the knife, the oscillatory and laterally-movable hub supporting the knife, the stud supporting said hub, and mechanism, substantially as described, whereby the hub and knife are successively moved laterally and oscillated, as set forth.
4. The combination of the needle, the independent tongue-forming knife, and the take up and their operating devices, of the cast-.olf composed of the slotted arm having the springpressed fingers or jaws h h and mechanism, i
Substantially as described, whereby said arm is inserted in the loop formed by the needle and moved upwardly to receive a portion of the needle in its slot, and then depressed to cause its fingers to grasp the loop and separate it from the barb of the needle, as set forth.
5. The combination, with the curved oscillating needle, of the looper-arm pivoted to a fixed support and provided with the arm 0, and the oscillating swing-piece j, pivotally connected to the arm 6 as set forth.
6. Thecombination, with the curved reciprocating needle and the loop casting-off and taking-up devices, of the swinging restf, the cam h, supporting said rest, and the cam m, leverj fspring n, and connecting-rod Z", whereby said cam is oscillated and supported with a yielding pressure, whereby it is adapted to support the rest f at various points, as set forth.
7. The combination, with the tongue-forming cutter and the loop-forming mechanism, of the edge gage or rest, 0, the pointed dogf, the oscillatory levers supporting said gage and dog, and mechanism, substantially as described, whereby the dog and gage are moved toward and from each other to grasp and release the work and laterally to feed the work, as setforth.
8. The combination of the curved needle, its arm, the reciprocating slide f, and the rod 1', connecting the needle-arm and slide and composed of the jointed sections having a locking device, as set forth.
9. The combination of the tongue-forming In testimony whereof we have signed our IO knife, mechanism for oscillating the same, names to this specification, in the presence of the needle, looper, and cast-off, and their optwo subscribing witnesses, this 24th day of erative mechanism, the loop-spreader, and '1 April, 1886.
5 operative mechanism therefor, substantially as PETER A. GOUPAL. described, whereby the spreader is moved for- JOSEPH OOUPAL. Ward under the needle into the loop, and then \Vitnesses: downward and held upon the tongue while the O. F. BROWN,
loop is being tightened, as set forth. 1 A. D. HARRISON.
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US381987A true US381987A (en) | 1888-05-01 |
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US381987D Expired - Lifetime US381987A (en) | Sewing-machine for connecting soles and uppers |
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