USRE2807E - Gilbert hawkes - Google Patents

Description

@uitrit glatte geteilt @flits MANUFACTURB 0F BOOTS AND SHOES.

titte ,Sttsbnl wenn tu im their Enters @sind nih mating pnt n its sans.

TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

Be it known that'I, GILBERT HAWKES, of Lynn, in the county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented a newI and'useful Improvement in theMethod of Lasting B oots and Slices, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drariings, making a part of this specification, in which` Figure Il` represents an inner sole with a narrow strip of 'cloth or other material attached to it.

Figure 2 indicates a methoc of attaching the upper to the inner sole.

Figure 3 exhibits a different mode of stitching from that shown in iig. 2; and

Figure 4 is a' view of the inner sole without the strip.

by machinery, and the object of the invention is to provide n means of attaching the upper to the inner sole, whcrby the nished solo of the boot cr shoe will be rendered more iiexible and pliant than those made by machinery, with the mode of lasting hitherto practised', and so obtain the advantages of a hand-made shoe; and likewise in providing an inner sole, the use of which, iu connection with the mode or lasting devised, will more fully accomplish these results, and also diminish the labor and expense in preparing the inner sole for the market. And. the invention consists of an inner sole, made of a textile material, -which may be stifened bythe application-of varnish or substance suitable to the purpose. It also consists in the employment of a strip of cloth'or other materiahvattached in any suitable manner to the centre of the under side of the inner sole, to which strip the upper is attached by stitching, or in the employment of such an equivalent as will furnish a means of attaching the upper to the inner sole by stitching.

In the manufacture ofmachine-sewed boots andshoes, the practice has been hither-to to prepare or last the shoe by fastening the upper to th i inner sole with numerous small nails, which method of preparation is universally considered very objectionable, for many reasons. Prior to my invention no means have heen devised, to my knowledge, to overcome these objections, except partially by the expensive and tedious process of whipping the upper to the inner sole'at a line following the outline of the inner sole, and near-its edge.

facilitate the work. 'By my process the upper is secured to the centre of the inner sole by means of stitches extending partially across the inner sole to a ystrip ntf cloth, waste leather, or other suitable material, attached to the centre ofthe inner sole by a row of stitches passing through the strip 'and inner sole, und so securing the strip thereto as to make it capable of bearing the strain to which it is subjected in lasting the boot or shoe. Owing to the sti'ness and Want of pliability in boots and shoes made by machinery, under the ordinary plan of lasting, the stitch that connects the outer to the inner solo frequently becomes broken. The small nails are also liable to work up through the inner sole, and thus render it uncomfortable to the'wearer.

The inner sole has heretofore been n ade of' leather, or of what is termed leather paper, and I- am not aware that a textile material has ever bee. used for the purpose of an inner sole.

Referring to the drawings, A rcpresr ats an inner sole, made of a textile material, to which, should it not be suiciently rigid, I propose applying a coating of varnish or other suitable substance; or a layer of paper, leather-paper, Etc., may be applied for the purpose of stiffening it and renderiugt more eilicient, if necessary; und the said substance may be Water-proof if desirable. Extending along the centre of the under side of the inner sole is a strip, B, of cloth, or any other suitable material, from the rearlend, or nearly so, to a point near the front end or toe of the same. The strip B may be stitched-or attached to the inner sole in any suitable manner; It is shown in the drawings as attached byu. single row of stitches, extending longitudinally through the centre of the said strip and inner sole. Fig. Brepresents a method'of lasting by carrying the stitches across at right angles to the central line of stitches, and taking in. opposite points on the edges of'the @represents the upper, .which is drawn over the edges of the last, and stitched to the strip B, as shown in lig. 2, or as in fig. 3. The upper may, however, be stitched or secured to the inner sole when made of textile material, directly, without the intervention of the strip B; and without departing from the spirit of my invention,tho said strip may be dispensed with, and the upper attached' directly to the centra-l line of stitches, which This invention is designed to be applied more particularly to the lasting of boots and shoes whichare sewed.

This whipping process is effected. by means of a curved awl and thread, with a bristle secured to the end to uppers, the cross-stitch being caught in the centre to the strip or central line of'stitches, for greater security.,

would be the equivalent of the method of attaching by the strip.. I have found, howeiier, ixr' practice, that the use of the central strip is preferable, inasmuch :ts it is attached Withgre'otenfacility,`is much more economical, as the single stitch would reqniie n stronger ond more expensive quality-of thread, and effects a better attach ment of the uppers by equztlizing the strain upon and around the edges of the latter. I

Having thus described my invention, Whitt I claim, and desire to secnre by Letters Potent, isl 1. An inner sole7 made of n textile material, to be used either with or `without n stiKening-substance, as set forth. l Y

2. I claim astrip, B, of a textile orother suitable material, or its equivalent, when used as and for the purpose described.

3. I claim the combin'ultion of en inner sole, A, formed ofa. textile material, with a. strP,.B, oi` any suitable material, :te ond i'or the purpose specified. A

4. I olninn the application, tothe lasting of boots and shoes, of on inner sole, of textile material, as describcd. 5. The motie, substantially ns set forth, of securing the uppeis to the inner sole, in lasting boots or shoes,

by stitching the formen, not directly to the latter, butlto n suitable supplementary material attached thereto.

In testimony wheieof'I hztve signed my nome to this specicntion inthe presence' of two subscribing witnesses.

' GILBERT HAWKES.

Witnesses:

J. H. ADAMS, M. S. Gr. WILBE.

Images