US931851A

US931851A - Method of making shoes.

Info

Publication number: US931851A
Application number: US28818205A
Authority: US
Inventors: Karl Engel
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Current assignee: USM Ltd; United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date: 1905-11-20
Filing date: 1905-11-20
Publication date: 1909-08-24
Anticipated expiration: 1926-08-24

Description

- K. ENGEL. METHOD OFMAKING SHOE&

A'Prmomxox FILED nov. 20, 1905.

Patented Aug. 24, 1909.

'2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

wma ww j- K. ENGEL.

METHOD OF MAKING snoss. -A'PPLIOATIOK FILED BOY. 20, 1905.

Patented Aug. 24, 1909.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

UNTTED sTA'rEs PATENT OFFICE.

KEZBL EHQEL,

OF LYNN, EASSACHUSETTSyASSIGNOB. TD SE91: MACHINERY COMPANY,

03* PATEESON, NEW JERSEY, i GOBTOBATIQN OF ,NEW JERSEY.

M'THOID OF SHOES.

Specification 01' Lettersjatent.

aa iicaeibn filed november 20, 1,906: .Scnial No. 288,182.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, KARI. E'NGEIj Of Lynn, in the county of Essex and StatebtMassachusetts, have invented certaii-i new and useful Improvements in Mietliods oi Making r -.hoes, of which the following is. a, specificath 1.

This invention relates particularly-to that class of shoes known as stitch-down -in which. the upper is turned outwardly and .stitched to the upper faceof the sole. 'The that in removing a worn out sole to substitute a new one, the stitches uniting the upper to the so'le'must be severed, which leaves the upper entirely unconfined so that a new sole cannot be applied by an ordinary shoemaker or mender of shoes, and the shoe must be sent back to the factory for re-lasting and making-over. This renders the cost of mending a shoe almost-as great as that of making an entirely new shoe. I

It is the object of the present invention to provide an improved method .of making a shoe of the general class above refer-red to,

said method enabling a shoe to be produced which is free from the objections above named, so that not only will the shoe retain its shape and hold together after the stitches attaching the outer sole -have become worn through, but will be of such construction that the outer-sole may be removed and a new one applied by an extremely simple operation, which does not require lasting of the shoe.

The novel steps forming' the subject-matter of this invention are described in the fol-lowing specification and claims.

'Of the accompanying drawings,Figu-re 1 represents a perspective View of a shoe upper made in accor ance with the present invention before attachment thereto M the inner soleand outer'sole. Fig..j2 represents a perspective inverted view of the-shoe after has be attachment of the inner sole thereto. Fig. .3 represents a cross-section of a colnplieted shoe, constructed according to the present invention. Fig. t represents a longitudinal section of the same. Fig. 5 represents a View similar to Fig. 2, of a partof the shoe with the outer sole applied. 4

The same refei ence characters same parts in all the figures.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates the upper leather of a shoe made in accordance with my invention, and 2 indicates the lining. The parts of the upper and the manner indicate the fin which they are stitched together are the same as in shoes previously made.

The essence of the present invention consists in mold-mg either thetoe portion alone or both the toe and counter portions of the upper or the entire upper, within the shank into the form which they will have when finally lasted but before the lasting operation or attachment of the inner sole is made. Fig. 1 shows the shoeupper after it has been molded1 ready for the application of the inner so e.

In making the shoe, the parts are all assembled and a fiat blank for the formation of abox toe or toestiffener 3 is pasted to the under side of the toe cap 4. The same is then set into a press, being clamped about its edges and acted upon by a form having substantially the shape of the toe part of the last upon which the shoe is subsequently to be lasted. Pressure is then exerted so as to movethe form out of the plane of the clamped edge, whereby the toe part of the upper is bulged out into the shape it is to have when finally lasted, and at the same time an outwardly-turned edge or flange 5 is formed upon the toe cap and box between which and the body of the toe is a constricted crease. The leather is tempered before the molding takes place and after it becomes .dry, retains its shape exactly. The means zfiorshaping the toe part of the upper and the method of shaping said toe part are not herein' specifically described and claimed, being made the subject-matter of the mespec'tive o0-pending applications of Karl Enge'l, Serial No. 387,168,, filed August 5, 1-997, and Serial l o. 422,293, filed March 20, 1 908. In a similar manner a blank for the formation of a countersti fiener 6 =is;avpp'lied to the counter 7 0f the shoe and placed in a suitably shaped -m'oldj, and while held in Patented Aug. 24., 1909;.

-the molds, while the intermediate parts of the upper being limp, may be turned out by -or insole 9 of which the-forward part has the upper and is preferably. ofkless width than the fore-part, although this is not accurately as to permit of correct lasting.

and grooving the outer sole now take place,

the mold, the projecting edges of the counter and stifi'ener are pressed over outwardly in all directions, forming the turned-out edge or flan 'e 8. These portions being stifl', retain substantially the shape given them by hand when required. But these may be stiff and molded. The means for shaping the counterof the shoe and the method of shaping said counter are not herein specifically described and claimed, being made the subject-matter of the respective co-pending applications of Karl Engel, SerialNo.387,024, filed August 5, 1907, and Serial No. 387,023, filed August 5, 1907. After the molding operations have'been performed, a tap sole the shape and dimensions of the fore part ofthe upper when the edges thereof are. turned outward, is applied to the upper and ositioned properly with respect to the stifi orward flange 5, the lining 2 being also turned outwardly and laid upon the tap sole or insole. Then the limp edges. of the sides of the upper arelturned outward and the whole upper from one side of the shoe at the shank to the corresponding part upon the other side of the shoe is stitched close to the bend of the turned-out edge, to theinsole, the line of stitches being shown at 10. The heel part of the insole is left-free from essential.

The steps above .described are all per formed before the shoe has been placed upon I a last, the attachment of the insole to the upper being rendered possible from the fact that the toe part is molded to its final shape. If this were not done, it would be impossible, to unite the up er and insole so Thereafter a last is placed in the ,shoe and the outer sole 11 is cemented and laid in place. The usual steps of rough-rounding and then the sole is stitched to the out turned edges of the upper and the edges of the insole entirely around the shoe by a line of stitches 12, a welt strip 13 being laid at the same time upon the oppositeside of the edge of the upper entirely'surfoundin the shoe, and the stitches being pass through the welt as well as through the other parts. j

In a prior patent -No. 788,354, granted April 25, 1905, I have shown and described a shoein which the insole or sock lining issecured to the upper lining so as to prevent the upper pulling away from the sole when the stitches are worn through. With this form of shoe, it is necessary to shape the upper leather upon a last after securlng the insole to the lining before the'outer sole can -be attached, and after the outer sole has been removed, it is impossible to reattach it or apply a new sole without relasting the shoe. With the present invention I have improved the shoe referred to by This attachment of the insole to the upper V is rendered possible only by the previous formation of the molded toe and outward flange, and therefore the step of thus molding the toe prior to the lasting operation and a shoe upper having a toe so molded, constitute the gist of the present invention. Bythis step also the lasting operation is much simplified, for the upper has already been brought into its final lasted shape and it is only necessary therefore to insert a last to. provide a support against which the outer sole is forced when being pressed in place. Accordingly the capacity of the lasters is \more than doubled and that step which has-previously been the most expensive one of shoe making, is by my invention reduced to one of theleast expensive.

,The material of .which the insole or sock -lining 9 is made is of much lighter weight and much .less stiif than that ordinarily used, being preferably of the same quality of leather as that from which the upper is made, this being sufficiently strong to hold down the edges of the upper., Furthermore, as the upper is directly attached to the insole, it is not necessary to use a special grade of lining as isrequired in the shoe described in my patent above referred to,. but the ordinary lining-materials may be employed. Thus a shoe upper which is very light and flexible may be made and an extra heavy outer sole may be a plied without increasing the weight or-sti ness of the shoe to a greater degree than that previously necessary even with the lightest shoes. Thereby the greater part of the weight may be put where it ismost needed, that is,- in the outer sole, whichreceives the greatest wear; The

welt gives the shoe the appearance of a Goodyearshoe and also provides a backing for the stitches 12 assing through the upper. The terms ast and 'lastginpf as used throughout the specification and claims may include constructions and operations, respectively, which differ in many respects from the :constructions and operations to which these terms ordinarily refer. As pointed out above, on.e of the main functions of the last in the employment of this method is to provide a support against which the outer sole may be forced in the sole laying operation. Although the last may also aid in per side of the out-turned Corrections in LetterSPatent No. 931,851.

shaping the upper, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that so far as thisiunction is concerned it may be dispensed with in the successful employment'of the resent method of makin shoes. As herein efore pointed out, a suitable shape is given to the shoe before the last is inserted. This initial shaping of the shoe is efi'ected by the molding operation, an insole'being attached which tends to 1 id the upper in its molded shape, and with a subsequent proper manipulation of the uoper is the only shaping essential in this method of making shoes.

I claim .1. The method of making a shoeswhich consists in molding the toe part of the upper to the desired shape of the toe of the finished shoe and simultaneously forming an outwardly projecting flan e-thereon, bulging out the toe over said ange stitching the edge of an. insole or sock lining to said flange and outturned sides of the upper and securing an outersole to the edges of the upper and insole.

2. The .method'of making a shoe which consists molding the toe part of the upper to the shape of the toe of the last and simultaneously forming an outwardly-pro jecting flange thereon prior to lasting, stitchmg the edge of an insole or sock lining to said flange and out-turned sides of the upper, inserting a last and securin an outer sole to the edges of the upper an insole.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in forming an outwardly-turned flan e on the toe part of an upper, molding suc lasted shoe, turning out the sides of the upper and stitching thereto and to said flange the fore part of an innersole or sock lining, inserting a last, applying a welt to the upupper, and securing a sole thereto.

0rd of the case the Patent Office.

' [SEAL] part to the shape of a- Signed and sealed this 5th day ofOctoher, A. 1)., 1,909.

4. That improvement in the art of making.

shoes which consists in forming an outwardly-turned flange on the toe part of an upper, molding such part to the shape of a' lasted shoe, molding the counter and stiff ener therefor of the upper to the shape of a.

and attaching thereto and to said toe flange the fore part of an innei'sole or sock lining, inserting alast in the shoe, and securing an outer sole to the toe and counter flanges and to the intermediate out-turned sides of the upper edge of the innersole.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding the toe and counter and the stitfeners therefor of a. .shoe upper to the final shape of a lasted shoe and forming thereon outwardly-turned flanges, stitching the fore-part of an insole to the toe flange and the sides of the upper, inserting,

a last, and securing an outer sole-to said flangesv and the out-turned sides of the upper.

6. That improvement in the art of making,

shoes'w'hichconsists in molding the toe and counter and the stifi'eners therefor of a shoe upper to the final shape of a lasted shoe and forming thereon outwardly-turned flanges,

stitching the fore part of an insole to'the toe flange and the sides of the upper, inserting a last, applying an outersole, laying awelt strip upon the turned-out edges of the upper, and stitching through the outer and inner soles, the turned-out upper edges, and the welt In testimony whereof I have afiixed my signature, in presence of two witnesses,

. KARL ENGEL. Witnesses:

' G120. T. YOUNG,

STEPHEN B. LARRABEE.

i It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 931,851, granted August 2- 1909, upon the application of Karl Engel, of Lynn, Massachusetts, for an improvement in i Methods of Making Shoes, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows: Page 2, line 17'and'lines' 2425, the Words tap sole should 7 read soc/i lining, page 3, after line 13, the following paragraph should be inserted:

I The novel shoe herein disclosed is not herein. claim ed but is much the sub 'ofa copemling: application Serial 2V0. 508,435,filed July 1.9,1909.

Same page, line 53, the word attaching should read stitching, and line 58, after the word upper the word and should be inserted; and thatthe said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the rec;

C. C. BILLINGS,

Acting Chmmz'ssioncr of'Patent-s.

. per side of the out-turned Corrections in LetterSPatent No. 931,851.

0rd of the case the Patent Office.

4. That improvement in the art of making.

6. That improvement in the art of making,

. KARL ENGEL. Witnesses:

' G120. T. YOUNG,

STEPHEN B. LARRABEE.

C. C. BILLINGS,

Acting Chmmz'ssioncr of'Patent-s.

Corrections in Letters Patent No. 931,851.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 931,851, granted August 24-, 1909, upon the applivation of Karl Engel, of Lynn, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Methods of Making Shoes, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows; Page 2, line 17 and lines 2-L-25, the WOl'tls tarp sole should read soc/l" lining: page 3, after line 13 the following paragraph should he inserted:

77w novel Show lmv'z'n diam/m d is no! Lew/w (/(I/mrfd imf ix mrule i/u' su/gjechmatfer ofa copendz'wg: app/[0118011 Sm'e'nl N0. 08, U5. filed July I9 '19t/9.

Same page, line 53, the word amt-oiling" should read elite/ting, and line 58, after the word upper the word and should be inserted; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these eorrectionn therein that the mine mar conform to the rec 0rd of the ease in the Patent ()fiit-(n Signed and sealed this 5th day of ()vtohvi: A. l 1909.

(T. (I. BlLLlNUt-,

Acting fbunnies/71ml f Patents.

[SEAL]