US793878A - Seamless blucher shoe. - Google Patents

Description

No. 798,878. PATENTED JULY 4, 1905. H. ENNER. SEAMLESS BLU'HER SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED TUNE 22, 1904.

lllrrrrinn .Sfrrrrns :Patented July de, 1905.

artnr titties..

HARRY JENNER, UF BROCKTUN, MASSACHUlil'm.

SPECIFXCATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 793,878, dated July d, 19015.

Application ilcd June 22,1904. Serial No. 213,590.

.To H//Z when?, it Irl/ty concern.-

lle it known that l, llnnnv JnNNnn, a citizen olt the United States, residing at Broekton, county el Plymouth, State of Massachusetts, have invented. an Improvement .in Seamless Blucher Shoes, ot which the :following description, in connection with the aeconipanying drawings, is a specil'ieatioii, like characters on. the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object the production el" a novel shoe of the blucher class, the same being practically seamless with the exception oi the seam at the licei.

.ln accordance with :my invention l cut a blank Yfrom call" or other skin, crimp the same, and thereafter l cut the vamp centrally et its length for a distance sui'l'icient to consti.- tute the so-ealled 'llies or parts that are to receive the eyelets, hooks, or other things employed to .tasten the shoe over the top of the toot, and this done l cut the crimped blank transversely, and thereafter l spring the lower ends of the [lies over the edge et the upper Aformed by making the transverse cut and stitch a portion ol' the lower end ol" each fly to said edge from a point outside the row of eyelets in the lily to the end of said. slot. The edge lel't by the transverse cut will have attached. to it a tongue, which may be of any usual form, but preferably a tongue known as a bellows-tongue, the edges et which are extended upwardly and underlie the eyeleted parts of the [lies and are secured to the inner sides of the I lies by a line of stitching to make a water-tight shoe at this point.

F igure l in perspective shows a seamless blucher made in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2 shows the leather as it .is cut from the skin. Fig. 3 shows a blank :folded centrally on the dotted line represented in Fig. 2 preparatory to placing the same on a crimping-torni. Fig. .lshows the blank, Fig. 3, supposed. to be cut where l'olded and crimped along the line from 2 to il and also as having the transverse cut. Fig. 5 shows the lower ends olfA the llies sprung over onto the portion of the upper covering the ball oi. the :toot and. stitched. in place.

ln the pri'iduction of a shoe in accordance with my inventionlcut from the skin a blank, (represented by A, Fig. 2.) This blank of course will vary in size according to the size of the shoe to be made. l then take this blank and fold it on the line X into the shape represented inv Fig. 3 and apply the same to a criniping-l`orm ol.i the usual character, and. moistening the saine by a rub-stick or otherwise l. crimp the blank A to [it the contour ol' the upper edge of the crimping-form, leaving the same practically in the shape represented inv Fig. 4. l then take this crimped blank, remove .it lroln the forni, and eut the same along the line X, Fig. 2, vfrom the point 2 to 3, (sce Fig. 4,) and then while the crimped upper is yet folded l cut the same transversely at 5, said cut Vforming the ends of the ilics l). Preferably l then round the lower ends el the `flies, as represented at el, removing a small portion ot the stock. This done the operator will spring or strain the upper in a direction to carry the lower ends (j of the i ly :from the position indicated in. Fig. 4 over the lower edge 7, lett by making the cut 5, into the position represented by dotted lines in Figs. l and 5, and the lower end 6 ol" the i lies from a point outside the row ot eyelets 7iy are stitched to said edge by a linc ol" stitching d, extended to the end of the cut 5. By stitching only a part of the lower end oil,i each v[ly to the edge leit by making the transverse cut 5 a place is lett between the edges o'l the flies, so that it becomes possible to open the flies and separate their edges sufficiently, so that the Atoot may be inserted into the upper, which. would not be the case it the entire lower edges (i of the ends oit the'l'lies were stitched to the lower edge left by making the cut 5.

To the edge of the stock lclt by making the cut 5 and between the lines oil.: stitching d, employed to connect each ly with a part o'lA said edge, l stitch by lines olf' stitching c a tongue c, (see Fig. 1.,) said tongue being also secured to the upper and theliningby a line o'lf'stitches c2, which run substaiitially parallel with the edges olf the llies substantially to the top of the shoe', it being understoml, olf course, that the tongue c has a great deal oil fullness in it,

so that when the shoe is applied the tongue will fold on the top of the foot, as common in blucher shoes.

After stitching the lower ends of the flies for part of their width to the upper by the stitchesd Ithen further insert aline of stitches d for a short distance, the said stitches running upwardly toward the top and going through not only a portion of the edge of cut 5 of the upper made by the transverse cut, but also going through the lining to thereby fasten down to the upper the flies and limit the extent of their opening, the stitches d/ ob- Viating strain on the stitches d.

Attaching the bellows-tongue to the edge of the upper left by making the cut 5 referred to and which edge is overlapped by a portion of the lower end of each fly makes the upper of the shoe water-tight at and about the iiies, which is a matter of importance. The eyelets h are set in the iiies at a distance back from the edges thereof.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

A seamless shoe comprising an up er composed of a single piece crimped and s ottedin the direction of its length to constitute the edges of the iiies, said upper being cut transversely of its length to form lower ends for the Iiies, said lower ends being sprung over the edge made by cutting the upper transversely and stitched thereto from a point outside the eyelets in the iiies, to the ends of said slot, and a tongue secured tosaid edge and extending upwardly under said flies.

In testimony whereof I have signed my naine to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

HARRY JENNER.

WIitnesses:

Gno. W. GREGORY, ABBIE L, PORTER.

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