US77498A - Improvement in loom-foe weaving gaements - Google Patents

Description

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IBREGULAR WEAVING. u No. 77,498. Patented May 5,A 1868.

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S. LEATHER. I 'IRRBGULAR WEAVING. No. 77,498. Patented May', 1868.

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'IMPROVEMENT in VLoon ron WBAVING'GARMENTS.

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Be it known that l, SAMUEL LEATHER, of Dalton, intheeonnty of York, England, have inventeda new v and'usel`ul Improvement in Weaving Garments; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and-"exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to make and use thesame, reference being hadtothe accompanying drawings, forming part of this'specitieation, in which-V .Figure l, sheet, 1, is a vertical longitudinal section of a skeleton loom, taken in the line a: x, iig. showing the ea1n-attaehment for working the stitching-leaves o t the beddlcs to make the scams of garments.

Figure?, sheet 1, a top view ci' the same.

Figure El, sheet 2, a rear end view, partly in section.

Figure 4, sheet 2, a detached view of one lea` of the heddles.

Figure 5, sheet 2, a modification ofthe pattern-cam'for stitching seams in garments.' 1

Figure 6, an end view-of thesame.

Figures T and r8 are plans of scams in'making garments. l

Figure 9, sheet l, plan of seams for stitching double webs of cloth together to make under-shirts.

i Figure 10,-slieet 1, planet' seams for stitching doublewebs of cloth together to make pantaloons.

Similar letters of reference indicate like parts. f

This invention relates to an improvement in weaving garments or wearing-apparel, such as shirts, panta' loons, drawers, Sie., Suc., by stitching double cloth together,` with seams between 'the articles, in such manner that a series of the same garments is woven and stitched at the same time, to be afterwards cut apart between the seams, thus effecting great economy-in the making of such garments, and agreat saving of material, new wasted by cutting the garments out of single cloth after a pattern, to be afterwards sewed together'in the usual way.

v This object is accomplished by meansof a cam or cams attached to a loom for weaving double cloth in such manner that'the seams of a series'ot' garments shall be made by stitching the double web together, according te the pattern of the cam, which operates on the `stitchingdeai' or leaves ofthe heddles when the fabric is woven,

j..ns hereinafter more particularly described.

A Aurepresents the skeleton frame of a loom having av jacquard-machine, B, attached, C the warp-beam,I 'D the cl c Lil-beam, E the'harness, and F the treadles, all eonstructedand arranged inthe ordinary manner for weaving double cloth, thc upper web being shown in red, and the lower web in blue, the colors being merelyi'orA distinction in describing thc operation of stitching the two webs together, to form'them into garments, as here inafter described. v v

Attached to the side ot' the loom/isa shaft, a, carrying a worm-wheeLGLthat" engages the gear G on a cam-shaft, Z1, that runs across the rear end of the jacquard-frame, and-carr ies the'stitching-cam or cams H, fori'ned in any desired pattern, for making the seams of the garments to he woven and stitched together in a series, as represented in figs. 9 and 10. y v

The stitching-cams H may be made narrow-faced, and placed loosely on the cam-shaft b, secured with a feather and groove, to prevent turning thereon, while they travel from end to end of it by means of a series of guide-rods, c c, placed upright on the rear of the jacquard-frame, between which rods the cams revolve und act like a screw, to give them thc forward movement on the shaft I that may be required'fo'r making a seam.

i 0r, insteadof narrow-faced travelling-cams, Il, a single long cam may be employed, having its face formed to give the requisite lifting-movement to the stitching-thrcads, according to the shape or pattern of thcseam to be stitched, one of which single ca ms is shown in igs. 5, G.

The action of the stitching-cam is similar to that of a pattern-card cylinder of the jacquard-machine for working the rows .of horizontal needles 'il d, provided, as usual, with spiralA springs c c, which needles, when ymoved back by the cam II, carry one or more ofthe vertical hooks g g into positie ny for being caught by one or both of the lifter-bars h hof the g'riiflirauie K, which is connected in any suitable way with one ofthe treadlcs F, to lift it' for stitching Vthe seam by lifting the hooks g g, with the threads'of'- the warp-yarnof the lower web of cloth in heddles 7c 7c, as presently described. 4

The perpendicular -wire hooks g g are connected at their lower ends with heddles k lc, Vthrough vthe eyesof which passv threads of the warp ofthe lower `web of clothfiu the loom, shown in blue; and the particular threads of the warp required for stitching the seam or seams for joining the two webs ocloth are lifted whenthe grilli frame rises, to be woven in with the upper web of cloth. v i i T The seams m m, figs. 9, 10, thus made for joining the upperand lower webs'of cloth together, to form a series of garments or parts of garments in the same web, may be run in any desired direction, according to the form and position of the cams H, operating on t-lie needles d dffor lifting such stitching-threads as are needed to ydo the work. l i

It will be readily perceived that if one single seam, or two parallel sealnsarc to be made, running length-i wise of the web of cloth in a straight'line, the cam or cams will be'limited in operation to those needles, d d,

that will make the proper stitching by lifting the vsanne tliread'or vthreads of. the warp-yavait) concert with the operation of weaving the upper web of cloth, but if the single or double seams are to be made 'at right angles across the web, vthen the cam mustbe made to extend across the '10mn-frame, and operate on all the horizontal needlessimultaneously, to lift all lthe threads of the warp-yarn at once. Butfor making diagonal or curved seams,11'igs'; 7, 8, the form of the face of'a single cam extending across the frame, or yof single travellingcams, as previousdy described, will be iliade in accordancewith, the desired angle of divergence from a'right angle, or with the curve t0 be given to the seam or seams wrm, which are shown running llongitudinally and transversely, iu straight lines and curves, to form thegarments, as shown in igsr9, 10, wherein are' erhibited illustrations of my improvedmethod. of weaving and stitching double cloth-together at the same time, to form a seriesof garments with the same web. l

For thus'stitching continuous single or double seams side by side, and uniting double cloth when woven, to make a seriesof garments, as illustrated in figs. 9, 10.,V l

Lam aware that two Vwebs of cloth have been.wove"nand stitchedtogether at the sometime b make quiltings and other double-cloth goods, and that even single garments have been thus made, and I disclaim, therefore, as my invention the plans and methods of weaving and uniting double cloth which have been employed for such purposes; but 4 I ldo claim as my invention, and desire to secure by'Letters Patent- 1. The combination of the sliding cams H, shaft Iz, gear G", and worm-wheel G, with the needles d, and guide-rods c e, for weavingthe necessary pattern, substantially as hereinshown anddescribed. v l

2. In combination with the above, the shaft a, screw-worm'G, and pinion G', substantially as and for the purpose herein shown anddescribed. l Y l v The above specification of my invention signed by me, this 1st day of May, 1867.

' i SAMUEL LEATHER.

Witnesses:V v. Y

WM. F. McNAMAnA, ALEX. F, ROBERTS.

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