US757966A - Machine for sewing corsets. - Google Patents

Description

No. 757,966. PATENTED APR. 19, 1904.

' S. BOYLE.

MACHINE FOR SEWING GORSETS.

APPLICATION FILED r113. 28, 1903. no MODEL. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

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-No. 757,966. PATBNTED APR. 19, 1904. S. ROYLB. MACHINE FOB. SEWING GORSETS.

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UNITED STATES Patented April 19, 1904.

PATENT OFFICE.

SAMUEL ROYLE, OF SOUTHSEA, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR OF TWO-THIRDS TO JOHN MADDEN AND ADOLPH JOSEPH, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

MACHINE FOR SEWING CORSETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 757,966, dated April 19, 1904.

Application filed February 28, 1903. Serial No. 145,525. (No model.) I

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, SAMUEL ROYLE, corset manufacturer, 2. subject of the King of Great Britain, residing at 56 St. Andrews road, Southsea, in the county of Hants, England, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Sewing Corsets and the Like, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to double-needle sewing-machines for uniting the component parts of a corset by a double line of stitching, and has for its object to provide means whereby the piece of fabric to be united will be simultaneously felled by the folding inward to a definite extent and in opposite directions of their out edges and at the same time overlapped to the exact extent required and united by the double line of stitching in such manner that the configuration of the corset when the parts areunited will be determined by the contour of the cut edges of the component parts.

It has also for its object to enable the stitching to be commenced at the very beginning of the intended seam without leaving any portion unsewed at the start of each seam.

I Heretofore it has not been practicable to unite the component portions of a corset by a double machine-stitched seam formed by simultaneously felling, overlapping, and double-stitching by a double-needle machine, as herein described, by reason of the curved form of one or both of the component parts to be united and the consquent difficulty of guiding the curved portions of the work, and I claim to be the first to have produced such a machinesewed double seam, which seam in itself forms the subject of another patent application of even date herewith, the present invention relating only to the means of producing the seam illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, whereis a plan, and Fig. 4 a section on line i i, Fig. 3, of the work-plate separately. Fig. 5 is a front end elevation of the feller; and Fig. 6 is a cross-section of same at line 6 6, Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 7 shows the double seam as formed. a is the presser-foot; b, one of the pair of needles; 0, the work-plate or needle-hole plate; (2, the needle-holes therein, and a the feed-claw if aldoubleneedle sewing-machine of known A B, Fig. 7, are the two pieces of fabric overlapped and united by the two lines of stitching s s, the edges of the two pieces being felled or inturned to equal and constant extents, as shown at 1 2, the edge of the uppermost piece being felled or folded downward and inward, as at 1, and the edge of the undermost piece B being felled or folded upward and inward, as at 2, the felled part of the uppermost piece A overlapping the undermost piece B, and vice versa, so that the raw edges of the two pieces project toward each other or meet midway, according to the width of the fells and the distance between the seams,which are situated each just within the adjacent fold, as shown.

In order to effect the simultaneous felling or inturning in opposite directions of the overlapped margins of the two pieces of fabric AB to be united, a double feller-guide is used, formed of two guide members f g, each of substantially U form in cross-section, the one limb of each U-guide being situated between the two limbs of the other and the two members being rigidly united by an intermediate piece h. This double feller-guide is integral with and projects in advance of the presserfoot a, beneath which it conducts the felled and overlapped edges of the two pieces of fabricA B. Each guide is of flared or splayed form and is gradually contracted from the point of entry to a point just in advance of the sewing-point, the connecting-piece it being of wedge shape, as shown in dotted lines, so as to form a central guide for the raw edges of the two pieces of fabric AB, and so determine an equal width of fell or inturn for each of the two pieces of fabric.

The presser-foot a is longitudinally grooved on its under face, as at j, to a depth and width suflicient to accommodate the extra thickness of the work formed by the superposition of the plies of fabric stitched together.

The lower part of the member f of the double feller is laterally extended so as to form a wing f to support and guide the one piece of fabric, and attached to the upper part of the member f is a similar oppositely-directed lateral wing f Both these wings lead up from about the level of the work-table of the machine to the level of the respective portion of the fellerguide.

The wing f and adjacent lower portion of the member f of the double feller-guide is necessarily situated below the level of the under face of the presser-foot in order that the work may enter the feller-guide as nearly as possible at the level of the work-table of the machine and may pass in a substantially horizontal direction to the sewing-point.

The front portion 0 of the needle-hole plate '0, which corresponds in position to the fellerguide, remains at the general level of the work-table; but the rear portion 0 of the needle-hole plate, in which the needle-holes cl and the slots for the passage of the feed-claw e are situate, is raised above the general level, as shown, so as to suit the difference of level between the feller-guide and the under face of the presser-foot, a short intermediate incline k leading up from the lower surface 0 to the higher surface 0 as shown, at a point just in advance of the needle-holes d. The feed-claw is of course adjusted in relation to the level of the part of the plate at which it works and is provided with three serrated members, each working in a slot in the needle-plate hole, the two side members a 0 working in the slots Z Z, the middle member a being, however, prolonged in a' forward direction beyond the other two and the slot Z in which it works be ing forwardly extended, so as to intersect the incline Z4, and so permit of the middle serrated mencement of a seam the leading edge of the work will be seized and positively fed by the claw before it reaches the sewing point insuch manner that the needles will enter the fabric at or close up to the leading edge, so that there will be no portion of the work left unsewed at the beginning of each seam and needing to be cut off, as'would otherwise be the case. Were any such unstitched portion left, pieces of fabric would require to be cut out of so much greater length than the intended depth of the corset, so as to admit of cutting off the unstitched portion, thereby involving a consequent waste of material. Owing to the multiplicity of seams in a corset, this is a very important consideration, apart from the fact thatby means of this invention the cost of making the seam is considerably less than by any heretofore-known means of making similar seams.

I claim A corset-stitching double-needle sewingmachine, comprising a presser-foot longitudinally grooved on its under face, a double feller-guide integral with the presser-foot at the front end thereof, projecting in advance of the same, and in fixed proximity to the sewing-needles, the feller-guide being adapted to fell in opposite directions the overlapped portions of the work, a needle-hole plate having the rear portion of its surface containing the needle-holes and feed-claw slots at a higher level than the forward portion of said plate and having a short incline extending across the plate at right angles to the feed-claw slots and leading up from the lower to the higher level just in advance of the needle-holes, and a feed-claw having a middle member extending forwardly between the needle-holes, the slot in which the said member works being forwardly extended to intersect the said incline to permit the said member at the beginning of its feed-stroke to seize the'work at the point of emergence of the work from the feller-guide and in advance of the sewing-point,

as described.

- SAMUEL BOYLE. VVitnessesz G. G. CLARK, T, W, KENNARDv

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