US593577A - Machine - Google Patents

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US593577A
US593577A US593577DA US593577A US 593577 A US593577 A US 593577A US 593577D A US593577D A US 593577DA US 593577 A US593577 A US 593577A
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strip
cam
machine
buttonhole
thread
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B3/00Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes

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  • WITNESSES INVENTUB (N0 Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 1.
  • INVEN T0 NoModeL H. E. .HAWES.
  • I TTUHNEY 1n norms wrrzns can wuuTu-umcfwunmcmu, Luv :2.
  • WITNESSES INVENTOR THE norms FEIERS co. mow-Luna. WASHINGTON. o. a
  • WITNESSES 4 IN VEN TOR vw g.
  • Figure l is a general side elevation of a waistband-machine embodying my present invention.
  • Fig. 2 is an enlarged side elevation of a part of said waistband-machine, showing in part the strip-slacking, drawing, starting, strip dividing, and discharging mechanisms.
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view showing substantially the same mechanisms.
  • Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view substantially on the line 44, Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 5 is a detail view showing the work-clamp and thread-parter operating-cam.
  • Fig. 6 is a detail side view showing the mechanism for operating the drawing mechanism intermittently.
  • Fig. 7 is a detail plan View of the same. .Figs.
  • FIG. 8 and 9 are detail side and sectional views, respectively, of the adjustable cam for operating and regulating the drawing mechanism.
  • Fig. 10 is a detail View of the reverse side of the same.
  • Fig. 11 is a partial viewsimilar to Fig. 8, showing a different adjustment of said drawing-cam.
  • Fig. 12 shows the drawing-cam in another position.
  • Figs. 13 and 14 are detail side and plan views, respectively, of the primary camand connections for operating the strip dividing, marking, and discharging mechanisms.
  • Figs. 15 and 16 are side and plan views, respectively, showing the workclamp, thread-parter, and their operating mechanisms.
  • Figs. 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 are detail views, hereinafter referred to, showing the operation of the thread-separator.
  • Fig. 22 is a cross-sectional View illustrating the operation of the strip-dividing, marking, and discharging mechanisms.
  • Fig. 23 is a detail sectional side elevation on the line 23 23, Fig. 4, showing the
  • a buttonhole stitching and cutting mechanism I at the present time employ an ordinary Wheeler 85 Wilson buttonhole-machine of the kind described in my prior application, Serial No. 472,977, aforesaid, of which Figs. 1, 15, and 16 show the driving mechanism A, the reciprocating work clamp or holder B, the needle 0, and the starting mechanism and stop-motion mechanism D.
  • Figs. 1, 15, and 16 show the driving mechanism A, the reciprocating work clamp or holder B, the needle 0, and the starting mechanism and stop-motion mechanism D.
  • the buttonhole-stitchin g mechanism On an extension of the frame E, on which the buttonhole-stitchin g mechanism is mounted, beyond and in line with the position of rest of the work-holder B, I fix the strip-drawing meche with the folding attachment.
  • the strip G of indefinite length from which the waistbands are to be formed I may previously fold and hem, as by the means described in my prior applicatiomSerial No. 521,307, filed August 25, 1894, or otherwise suitably prepare for the purpose, and I may lead it to the work-holder B by means of a tension device, as described in my prior application, Serial No. 472,977, filed May 4, 1893,
  • connection I arrange the drawing-wheels F F to pull the strip G between the presser-foot B and the lower clamp-plate B of the work-holder B transversely to the length of the buttonholes, so that the buttonholes will extend transversely of the strip, as shown.
  • the drawing mechanism F in harmony with the buttonhole-stitching mechanism, I connect the driving mechanism A of the latter by means of a worm-shaft A and worm-wheel A with a cam-shaft H, mounted transversely on the frame E of the machine, and on said shaft H, I fix a cam I, (shown in detail; in Figs. 8, 9, 10,11, and 12,):to operate the drawing mechanism F and pull the strip. G a predetermined distance through the workholder B once during each rotation of the said cam-shaft H.
  • I engagewith said cam an antifriction cam-follower I, fixed on a lever I which is pivoted on the frame E, and is provided, as shown in Fig.
  • each set of three buttonholes being; intended for the rear of the completed waists band, the set of five for the front, and the intervening wider spaces for the sides of the waistband.
  • the cam-adj ustin g mechanism which I here i employ, as shown in Figs. 8 to 12, comprises a pivotal expanding active portion J of the cam I, held in contracted position by a spring J, but adapted to be spread to increase the stroke of the cam I at certain times by cam 5 projections J held adj ustably at the desired,
  • cam- L (shown in Fig. 5,) mounted on the cam-shaft H and engaging a cam-follower L, which operates at the proper time to raise and lower the spring-depressed resser-foot B, through the rod L and angle-lever L (shown in Fig. 1,) and the link L lever-plate L and stud L thereon, (shown in Figs.
  • the form of thread-parting device which I have illustrated in the drawings, particularly Figs. 15 to 21, consists of a piece M, pivoted in the corner of the upper work-clamp plate B to swing horizontally across the corner of the slot therein, and thus between the raised needle and the end of the completed buttonhole.
  • I preferably sharpen the lower outer edge M of the piece hi and arrange it to swing between the outer part B of the upper clamp-plate B and a blade M fixed on and below the part B of the clamp-plate B so that when the blade M is swung on its pivot M as shown in Figs.
  • its upper edge M which is preferably rounded, as shown, will carry and grip the thread between it and the part 13 and immediately afterward, or it may be at the same time, the blade M of the movable piece M will cooperate with the fixed blade M to shear, cut,
  • a slacking mechanism for easing or slacking the strip G between the drawing mechanism and the buttonholestitching mechanism during the reciprocation of the work-holder, and thus prevent the same from drawing on the strip, substan tially as illustrated in Figs.
  • I also provide mechanism for dividing the buttonholed strip G into sections of the required length, each to make a buttonholewaistband, substantially as follows. -As best shown in Figs. 2,3, 4, 22, and 23, I mount on the frame of the machine in the line of feed and beyond the drawing mechanism a transverse vertical blade 0, beneath the lower cutting edge of which the strip G is thus fed by the drawing-wheels F F. I fix the blade 0 on a blade-holder O, which I make adjustable on the frame E, longitudinally to and from the drawing mechanism, so that the division of the strip G can be accomplished at the required points of the buttonholed strip.
  • I On the adjustable blade-holder 0', I likewise provide anarrow table 0 below and immediately in advance of the blade '0, to conduct the strip Gr thereto, and immediately below [actuated catch Q pivoted on the bladeand beyond the blade; 0., I arrange atable O- to conduct the strip G therefrom.
  • the pivotal lever P carries-a pawl P which engages. and turns the distance of one tooth a ratchet-wheel P fixed on the shaft P, which ratchet-wheel in this instance I provide with eight teeth, so that the shaft P is rotated oncefor-each eight reciprocations of the slidebar 10. and revol nations of the controlling camshaft II.
  • On the cam-shaft P I fix also a secondary cam P to engage a cam-follower p on the movable eduction-table O and thus operate the strip-divider once for each eight operations of the. buttonhole stitching and drawing mechanisms, so that in this instance the strip G will be divided on the completion of each set of eightcomposed of separate sets of five. and three bnttonholes.
  • I also provide mechanism for stamping or otherwise applying a name, symbol, or other mark to each section of the strip so divided substantially as follows: As best illustrated in Figs 3., 4, and 22, I fix on the rising side of the eduction-table O a standard Q, on which I pivot to swing toward and from the strip G, passing over said table 0 a stamp Q, bearing the mark or device to be applied to. the waistbands, and connect the shank Q of said stampv to. the table 0 by a spring Q to normally hold the stamp elevated above the strip.
  • I alsopivot an inking-pad G2,, which is pressed normally against to ink the face of the stamp Q by a spring Q but is arranged to be swung downward out of the way by said stamp when the latter is swung on its, pivot down upon the strip G.
  • I likewise form the shank Q of the stamp. Q with a shoulder Q which is automatically and normally engaged by a springholder 0, when the eduction-table O is lowered, as shown in Fig. 4, in such a.
  • buttonshole-stitclr ing machine including its work-clamp, 006perating mechanism to drawa continuousstrip of fabric intermittently through the workclamp, cooperating mechanism to close the work-clamp and start the buttonhole-st-itching mechanism after each drawing, and 00- operating mechanisms to, after the stitching of each buttonhole, stop the stitching mechanism, sever the thread from the work, open the work-clamp and repeat the drawing.
  • buttonshole-stitching machine including its work-clamp, cooperating mechanism to drawa continuous strip of fabric intermittently through the workclamp,'cooperating mechanism to close the work-clamp and start the buttonhole-stitching mechanism after each drawing, and cooperating mechanisms to, after the stitching of each buttonhole, stop the stitching mechanism, sever the thread from the work, clamp the severed end of the thread, open the workclamp and repeat the drawing.
  • cam operating with the machine, a camfollower and connections whereby said cam opens the work-clamp after the stitching of each buttonhole, of a thread-cutter and a thread-clamp, and operating connections whereby the thread-cutter and thread-clamp are also actuated by the said work-clamp-opcrating cam-follower.
  • a work-clamp for a buttonhole-stitching machine provided with a thread cutting and clamping piece pivoted to the upper clampplate to swing between it and a cutting-plate fixed across the outer extremity of the buttonhole-slot in the said clamp-plate and with means for operating the thread cutting and clamping piece.
  • a work-clamp for a buttonhole-stitching machine provided with a thread-cutting blade pivoted to an upper member of the workclamp so as to swing across the buttonholeslot therein from a position substantially parallel to the said slot to one substantially transverse thereto.
  • a buttonholestitching machine including a work-clamp and buttonhole-feeding mechanism, of a stripdrawing mechanism operating intermittently therewith, a thread-cutter in juxtaposition to the work-clamp of the machine, and mechanism for operating the thread-cutter between the completion of each buttonhole and the succeeding drawing.

Description

H. E. HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE.
WITNESSES: INVENTUB (N0 Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 1.
No. 593,577. Patented Nov. 16,1897.
9 Sheets-Sheet '2.
INVEN T0 (NoModeL) H. E. .HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE.
No. 593,577. Patented Nov. 16, 1897.
W/TNESSES: 0 M, 12. w W
TN: scams PEI'ERS'COY. PHOTGLI'I'HO WASHINGTON, u. c.
(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 3. H. E. HAWES SEWING MACHINE. No. 593,577. Patented Nov. 16,1897.
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WITNESSES INVEN TOR P I viwz 66m,
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I TTUHNEY 1n: norms wrrzns can wuuTu-umcfwunmcmu, Luv :2.
(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 4.
H. B. HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE. No. 593,577.- Patented Nov. 16,1897.
m 1mm...
WITNESSES: INVENTOR THE norms FEIERS co. mow-Luna. WASHINGTON. o. a
I TTURIIEY (No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 5.
vH. E. HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE.
No. 593,577. Patented Nov. 16, 1897.
m 7 f El 1 1L; MANN WITNESSES: i
JIM! 5 g Z a.
(N0 Model.) 9 SheetsSheet 6.
H. E. HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE.
No. 593,577. 7 Patented Nov. 16,1897.
WI TNESSES INVENTOH ATTU N I (No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 8. H. E. HAWES.
SEWING MACHINE.
INVENTUR WITNESSES:
(No Model.) -9 SheetsSheet 9.
H. E. HAWES.
SEWING MAGHINE. I
No. 593,577. Patented-Nov. 16,1897
WITNESSES: 4 IN VEN TOR vw g.
.4 TTORNEY m: \onals PETERS co. worn-urns WASHINGTON, 01c,
UNITED STAT-ES PATENT OFFICE.
HERBERT E. HAYVES, OF- BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO COLBY &
CO., OF SAME PLACE.
SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 593,577, dated November 16, 1897.
Application filed August 25, 1894. Serial No. 521,306. (No model.)
To all whmn it away concern.-
Be it known that I, HERBERT E. HAWES, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of Brooklyn, county of Kings, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification. 7
While many of the features of this invention are applicable separately and in combition to a diversity of purposes, the special purpose of my invention is to perfect and improve the machine for making buttonholewaistbands for boys trousers illustrated in my other application for patent, filed May 4:,
1893, Serial No. 472,977, wherein a strip of mittingly through a buttonhole stitching mechanism, so that the buttonholes are automatically formed in the strip at proper intervals, and said strip can then be divided into the proper lengths to form the buttonholewaistbands. To this end I have devised mainly novel mechanism for operating the drawing mechanism in harmony with the buttonhole-stitching mechanism, for varying the intervals between the buttonholes, for slacking the strip between the drawing mechanism and the buttonhole-stitching mechanism during and to accommodate the reciprocation of the strip with the work-clamp, for cutting or parting the thread from the work on the completion of each buttonhole or piece of stitching, for fastening and retaining the end of said thread in the needle until the commencement or it may be partial or total completion of the next buttonhole or piece of stitchin g and for then releasing the thread, for cutting or dividing the buttonholed strip in lengths or sections suitable for waistbands, for applying to each of said strip-sections a trade-mark, stamp, or symbol, and for automatically discharging said marked and buttonholed sections or waistbands from the machine into a receptacle therefor.
In order that my invention may be clearly ascertained, I shall first give a detailed description of the mode in which I carry the invention into practice, and then point out its various features in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which I have designated the same parts by like letters of reference in all the figures.
Figure l is a general side elevation of a waistband-machine embodying my present invention. Fig. 2 is an enlarged side elevation of a part of said waistband-machine, showing in part the strip-slacking, drawing, starting, strip dividing, and discharging mechanisms. Fig. 3 is a plan view showing substantially the same mechanisms. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view substantially on the line 44, Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a detail view showing the work-clamp and thread-parter operating-cam. Fig. 6is a detail side view showing the mechanism for operating the drawing mechanism intermittently. Fig. 7 is a detail plan View of the same. .Figs. 8 and 9 are detail side and sectional views, respectively, of the adjustable cam for operating and regulating the drawing mechanism. Fig. 10 is a detail View of the reverse side of the same. Fig. 11 is a partial viewsimilar to Fig. 8, showing a different adjustment of said drawing-cam. Fig. 12 shows the drawing-cam in another position. Figs. 13 and 14 are detail side and plan views, respectively, of the primary camand connections for operating the strip dividing, marking, and discharging mechanisms. Figs. 15 and 16 are side and plan views, respectively, showing the workclamp, thread-parter, and their operating mechanisms. Figs. 17, 18, 19, 20, and 21 are detail views, hereinafter referred to, showing the operation of the thread-separator. Fig. 22 is a cross-sectional View illustrating the operation of the strip-dividing, marking, and discharging mechanisms. Fig. 23 is a detail sectional side elevation on the line 23 23, Fig. 4, showing the strip-dividing mechanism.
For a buttonhole stitching and cutting mechanism I at the present time employ an ordinary Wheeler 85 Wilson buttonhole-machine of the kind described in my prior application, Serial No. 472,977, aforesaid, of which Figs. 1, 15, and 16 show the driving mechanism A, the reciprocating work clamp or holder B, the needle 0, and the starting mechanism and stop-motion mechanism D. On an extension of the frame E, on which the buttonhole-stitchin g mechanism is mounted, beyond and in line with the position of rest of the work-holder B, I fix the strip-drawing meche with the folding attachment.
anism, for which I prefer to employ, as in my aforesaid prior application, Serial N o. 47 2,977 aloose upper drawing-wheel F, pressed yieldin gly, as shown in Fig. 2, upon a flanged lower drawing-wheel F by which it is driven.
The strip G of indefinite length from which the waistbands are to be formed I may previously fold and hem, as by the means described in my prior applicatiomSerial No. 521,307, filed August 25, 1894, or otherwise suitably prepare for the purpose, and I may lead it to the work-holder B by means of a tension device, as described in my prior application, Serial No. 472,977, filed May 4, 1893,
or, by means of a suitable guide, directly from a bobbin or roll on which the strip is previously wound, as illustrated in my said prior application, Serial No. 521,307, in connection I arrange the drawing-wheels F F to pull the strip G between the presser-foot B and the lower clamp-plate B of the work-holder B transversely to the length of the buttonholes, so that the buttonholes will extend transversely of the strip, as shown.
To operate, the drawing mechanism F in harmony with the buttonhole-stitching mechanism, I connect the driving mechanism A of the latter by means of a worm-shaft A and worm-wheel A with a cam-shaft H, mounted transversely on the frame E of the machine, and on said shaft H, I fix a cam I, (shown in detail; in Figs. 8, 9, 10,11, and 12,):to operate the drawing mechanism F and pull the strip. G a predetermined distance through the workholder B once during each rotation of the said cam-shaft H. For thus operating the. drawing mechanism from the cam I, I engagewith said cam an antifriction cam-follower I, fixed on a lever I which is pivoted on the frame E, and is provided, as shown in Fig. 6, with a slotin which is held ad j ustably one end of a link 1 theother end of which is pivoted to a clutch I, Which is itself pivoted to swing on the. shaft H. I prefer to form the clutch I of an arm 1 pivoted toswing on the cam-shaft and carrying twopivotal toggle-leversI I whichareboth pivoted to the arm I and the lever I to the linkl The toggle-levers support clutch-shoes 1 I", which are held byor slope of the cam I'swin-gs thelever 1 the lin-k l will instantly, through the toggle-levers I 17, bind the clutch-shoes I I on the-rim I and rotate, the drawing-wheel F through an arc d'eterminedby the stroke of the cam-1ever I As the cam. I thencauses the link I to returnby gravity or it. may be by a spring the link will instantly loosentheclutch-shoes 1 Pen the rim, the springs 1 yielding, and return the clutch I to its normal, position, where i t.rema ins until the next operation of thedrawin g mechanism. To secure thed-raw-r cam portion J. tion of the disk J 3 in harmony with the; drawin g-wheel F against movementduring the return of the clutch I I prefer to mounta similar but reversely-arranged friction-clutch K at the opposite side of the rim I and on an arm K,depending from the frame E,as shown. The operation of the drawing mechanism would in this way be regulated to draw the strip Gforward an equal distance on the completion of each buttonhole thereon, so that the buttonholes will be formed at equal distances apart; but it is often necessary to vary the distances between the buttonholes, and I have therefore provided mechanism for adj usting the cam I, and thus the stroke of the operating-clutch I and of the drawing-wheel F at certain predetermined stages in the formation of the series of buttonholes. In the example here given I have shown such camadjusting mechanism in Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, and. 12, arranged for the formation of five buttonholes at equal distances, then a longer space,
i then three buttonholes at shorter andequal.
distances apart, then a. longer space, and so on, each set of three buttonholes being; intended for the rear of the completed waists band, the set of five for the front, and the intervening wider spaces for the sides of the waistband.
The cam-adj ustin g mechanism which I here i employ, as shown in Figs. 8 to 12, comprises a pivotal expanding active portion J of the cam I, held in contracted position by a spring J, but adapted to be spread to increase the stroke of the cam I at certain times by cam 5 projections J held adj ustably at the desired,
points in the periphery of a split disk J and engaging as said disk is. turned a corre sponding cam projection J on the expanding I cause the automatic rota,-
in g mechanism F, and thusthe automatic vai riation of the drawing, as desired, by fixingthe disk J on a short shaft J mounted ec- ,centrically and to turn in the body of the. cam I, and fixing on said shaft J- a toothed wheel J which I arrange toen gage, as shown in Fig. 12, a fixed pawl J and to be turned thereby the distance of one tooth at each ro-- tationof the cam I. The adjustment of the cams J 2 peripherally and radially on the disk: J 3 will thus accurately determine the periods; and extent of the variation of the drawing springs I' 'in engagement with opposite sides of arim- 1 ,formedon thelowerdrawing-wheel F With thisconstruction, as the active partv and the distances between the buttonholes on the strip.
To insure the starting of the buttonholestitching mechanism on the completion of each drawing of the-strip, I employ a cam K 011 the cam-shaft H, arranged'to at the propertime and through the cam-follower-K, connecting-rod K and connections K operate.
the starting mechanism D, substantially as described in my prior application, Serial. No. 472,977, the cutter being actuated to. cutzthe buttonhole and the stop-motion automatic-- ally stopping the stitching on the completion:
be depressed automatically to clamp the strip G on the completion of each drawing and before or on the starting of the buttonholestitching mechanism and to be raised to free the strip on the completion of each buttonhole and before the commencement of the next drawing by means of a cam- L, (shown in Fig. 5,) mounted on the cam-shaft H and engaging a cam-follower L, which operates at the proper time to raise and lower the spring-depressed resser-foot B, through the rod L and angle-lever L (shown in Fig. 1,) and the link L lever-plate L and stud L thereon, (shown in Figs. 15 and 16,) the stud L engaging the upper work-clamp-plate arm 13 as the lever-plate L is swung on said arm B to'which it is pivoted. I provide this means of operating the presser-foot B as a convenient means also of operating my new thread-parter and thread-fastener, which I have invented for the particular purpose of automatically separating the threads from the work on the completion of each buttonhole and for automatically fastening and retaining the separated end of the thread in the needle until the commencement, or it may be whole or partial completion, of the next buttonhole.
The form of thread-parting device which I have illustrated in the drawings, particularly Figs. 15 to 21, consists of a piece M, pivoted in the corner of the upper work-clamp plate B to swing horizontally across the corner of the slot therein, and thus between the raised needle and the end of the completed buttonhole. I preferably sharpen the lower outer edge M of the piece hi and arrange it to swing between the outer part B of the upper clamp-plate B and a blade M fixed on and below the part B of the clamp-plate B so that when the blade M is swung on its pivot M as shown in Figs. 18, 19, 20, and 21, its upper edge M, which is preferably rounded, as shown, will carry and grip the thread between it and the part 13 and immediately afterward, or it may be at the same time, the blade M of the movable piece M will cooperate with the fixed blade M to shear, cut,
or part the threads from the work, while the parted end thereof will remain fastened, as described, and thus retained in the needle. As a convenient means of operating this form of thread parting and fastening device automatically on the completion of the stitching of each buttonhole, I mount the vertical pivot M to which the movable piece M is fixed, in a bearing 1 erected on the upper clampplate B and provide said pivot with an arm M", which I connect by means of an operating-rod M with the leverplate L before described, for raising the presser-foot. I so adjust this presser-foot and thread parter and fastener operating mechanisms that on or after the completion of each buttonhole and before the ensuing drawing, as before described, the incline L of the cam L, Fig. 5, first operates the lever-plate L and thus the piece M, so as to part and grip the thread without acting on the presser-foot until the stud L on the lever-plate L strikes the operating-arm B of the upper clamp plate, when the presserfoot is also raised and the work freed to permit the drawing. On the completion of the ensuing drawing and before the commencement of the next buttonhole, the presser-foot and thread parter and fas tener being, meanwhile retained in position by the cam-lever U, the presser-foot is first permitted by the cam-decline L to be depressed upon the work by its spring E the stud being. meanwhile retained against the upper clamp-plate arm B and the end of the thread thus still fastened, then the stitching of the next buttonhole commences, and when it has progressed far enough for the piece M to clear the needle and threadthe cam-decline L permits or causes the piece M to be returned by its spring M to its primary cutting position and the gripped end of the thread, now retained by the stitching, to be released.
I have also devised a slacking mechanism for easing or slacking the strip G between the drawing mechanism and the buttonholestitching mechanism during the reciprocation of the work-holder, and thus prevent the same from drawing on the strip, substan tially as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, wherein it will be seen I conduct the strip from the work-holder to and between the two rollerguides N and N, the guide N being stationary on the frame of the machine and the guide N, mounted in bearings N pivoted on the mountings of the guide N and having an operatingearm connected by a' rod N with an arm N on the drawing cam-lever-F, so that on the return of said lever after each drawing and during the initial operation of the buttonhole-stitching mechanism the movable guide N will be swung upward out of line with-thatis, over the fixed guide and slackthe strip G, and on the completion ofthe buttonhole and stoppage of the work-holder the strip will by the same means be again taken up before or with the commencement of the drawing.
I also provide mechanism for dividing the buttonholed strip G into sections of the required length, each to make a buttonholewaistband, substantially as follows. -As best shown in Figs. 2,3, 4, 22, and 23, I mount on the frame of the machine in the line of feed and beyond the drawing mechanism a transverse vertical blade 0, beneath the lower cutting edge of which the strip G is thus fed by the drawing-wheels F F. I fix the blade 0 on a blade-holder O, which I make adjustable on the frame E, longitudinally to and from the drawing mechanism, so that the division of the strip G can be accomplished at the required points of the buttonholed strip. On the adjustable blade-holder 0', I likewise provide anarrow table 0 below and immediately in advance of the blade '0, to conduct the strip Gr thereto, and immediately below [actuated catch Q pivoted on the bladeand beyond the blade; 0., I arrange atable O- to conduct the strip G therefrom. I further prefer to constitute of the edge 0 of the eduction-table O a lower cutting-blade to cooperate with the upper blade 0 and out or divide, the strip passing therebetween, and for this purpose I arrange the said lower blade 0 to swing upward across the said upper blade 0 by providing the eduction-tableO' with bearings on one side thereof mounted on a longitudinal pivot 0 held in the upper adjustable blade-holder O and in the frame of the'machine. To accomplish the operation of this form of strip-divider at the required time on the completion of a certain number. of forward drawings, I fix an antifriction camfollower P onthe cam-shaft driving wormwheel A to engage and actuate a cam P, fixed on a slide-bar 1?, having a slot P to ride on the cam-shaft H, and reciprocated in opposition to the cam-follower Pby a spring 1?. In the slide bar P is. formed a slot to which I fasten adj ustably by means of a screw P one end of a lever P which is pivoted on v a. shaft P mounted in bearings on the adj ustable blade-holder, the adjustable connec tion of the lever P and slide-bar P to permit the adjustment of the strip-divider before referred to.
The pivotal lever P carries-a pawl P which engages. and turns the distance of one tooth a ratchet-wheel P fixed on the shaft P, which ratchet-wheel in this instance I provide with eight teeth, so that the shaft P is rotated oncefor-each eight reciprocations of the slidebar 10. and revol nations of the controlling camshaft II. On the cam-shaft P I fix also a secondary cam P to engage a cam-follower p on the movable eduction-table O and thus operate the strip-divider once for each eight operations of the. buttonhole stitching and drawing mechanisms, so that in this instance the strip G will be divided on the completion of each set of eightcomposed of separate sets of five. and three bnttonholes.
I also provide mechanism for stamping or otherwise applying a name, symbol, or other mark to each section of the strip so divided substantially as follows: As best illustrated in Figs 3., 4, and 22, I fix on the rising side of the eduction-table O a standard Q, on which I pivot to swing toward and from the strip G, passing over said table 0 a stamp Q, bearing the mark or device to be applied to. the waistbands, and connect the shank Q of said stampv to. the table 0 by a spring Q to normally hold the stamp elevated above the strip. On the standard Q, I alsopivot an inking-pad G2,, which is pressed normally against to ink the face of the stamp Q by a spring Q but is arranged to be swung downward out of the way by said stamp when the latter is swung on its, pivot down upon the strip G. I likewise form the shank Q of the stamp. Q with a shoulder Q which is automatically and normally engaged by a springholder 0, when the eduction-table O is lowered, as shown in Fig. 4, in such a. manner that when the eduction-table O is swung upward, as before-described, to divide the strip the shank of the stamp Q on the table 0 Will be detained by the fixed catch Q until the stamp is swung downward thereby past the inking-pad Q and upon the strip G, as indicated' in Fig. 22, marking the same, when the catch Q slips oh. the shoulder Q on the stamp-shank and allows said stamp to be again thrown upward over the inking-pad by its spring Q tions or waistbands thus marked substam tially as follows and as best shown in Figs. 4 and 22, wherein it will be seen that I fix an additional cam R on the secondary cam-shaft. P to engage a cam-follower R on and near the pivoted side of the eduction-table 0 so as. to follow up the action of the dividerand It will be understood that I do not intend to limit my invention to any of the special forms or combinations of mechanisms herein shown and described, as I may in practice employ vastly different forms. of mechanisms to the same end and may omit any of the various component mechanisms without materiatly affecting the operation of the others in, so far as my invention is: concerned.
I finally provide mechanism for automatically discharging the strip-seer It is evident that I can readily apply the 1. The combination with buttonhole stitching and feeding mechanisms, of strip-drawing, strip-slacking, thread-parting, strip-dividing, strip-marking and strip-discharging mechanisms.
2. The combination of a buttonhole-stitclr ing machine including its work-clamp, 006perating mechanism to drawa continuousstrip of fabric intermittently through the workclamp, cooperating mechanism to close the work-clamp and start the buttonhole-st-itching mechanism after each drawing, and 00- operating mechanisms to, after the stitching of each buttonhole, stop the stitching mechanism, sever the thread from the work, open the work-clamp and repeat the drawing.
3. The combination, of a buttonhole-stitching machine, including its work-clamp, cooperating mechanism to drawa continuous strip of fabric intermittently through the workclamp,'cooperating mechanism to close the work-clamp and start the buttonhole-stitching mechanism after each drawing, and cooperating mechanisms to, after the stitching of each buttonhole, stop the stitching mechanism, sever the thread from the work, clamp the severed end of the thread, open the workclamp and repeat the drawing.
4. The combination, with a buttonholestitching machine, includingits work-clamp,
a cam operating with the machine, a camfollower and connections whereby said cam opens the work-clamp after the stitching of each buttonhole, of a thread-cutter and a thread-clamp, and operating connections whereby the thread-cutter and thread-clamp are also actuated by the said work-clamp-opcrating cam-follower.
5. The combinatiomwith the movable clampplate of a sewing-machine, having an operating-arm B of a thread-cutter and threadclamp pivoted on the said clamp-plate and having an operating-arm M a lever L pivoted on the clamp-plate arm and carrying a stop L to engage the arm B a rod M connecting the arm M and the lever L and means to operate the lever L 6. A work-clamp for a buttonhole-stitching machine provided with a thread cutting and clamping piece pivoted to the upper workclamp plate to swing between it and acutting-plate rigidly attached to the said upper clamp-plate and with means for operating the thread cutting and clamping piece.
7. A work-clamp for a buttonhole-stitching machine provided with a thread cutting and clamping piece pivoted to the upper clampplate to swing between it and a cutting-plate fixed across the outer extremity of the buttonhole-slot in the said clamp-plate and with means for operating the thread cutting and clamping piece.
8. A work-clamp for a buttonhole-stitching machine provided with a thread-cutting blade pivoted to an upper member of the workclamp so as to swing across the buttonholeslot therein from a position substantially parallel to the said slot to one substantially transverse thereto.
9. The combination, with a buttonholestitching machine, including its work-clamp, and a wheel to draw a continuous strip through the work-clamp, of a clutch-rim connected to said drawing-wheel, a clutch-shoe to frictionally engage the clutch-rim, and mechanism cooperating with the buttonholestitching machine to cause the clutch-shoe to move the Wheel after the stitching of each buttonhole and, to arrest-the movement of the clutch-shoe during the stitching of the next buttonhole.
'10. The combination, withv the buttonho1estitching machine and the strip drawing mechanism, provided with an operating-rim, of a clutch-shoe to frictionally engage said rim, a clutch-shoe-carrying arm, and a clutchshoe-operating lever pivoted on said arm and reciprocating connections between said shoeoperating lever and the buttonhole-stitching machine. 11. The combination, with the buttonholestitching machine and the strip drawing mechanism provided with an operating rim, of clutch-shoes to frictionally engage said rim and a toggle device to operate said clutchshoes and reciprocating connections between said toggle device and the buttonhole-stitching machine.
12. The combination, with the buttonholestitching machine, and the strip drawing mechanism and its operating-rim, of a pivotal arm, toggle-levers pivoted thereon, rimengaging clutch-shoes on said toggle-levers, a cam and connections to reciprocate one of said toggle-levers and cam-driving mechanism connected with the buttonhole-stitching machine.
13. The combination, with the buttonholestitching machine, and the strip drawing mechanism, its operating-rim, and a clutch for intermittently operating said rim, of rimen gaging clutch-shoes to hold said rim against a return movement, and toggle-levers carrying said return stopping clutch-shoes and reciprocating connections between said operating-clutch and the buttonhole-stitching machine.
14. The combination with the sewing-machine and the cooperating drawing mechanism operated by aprimary cam provided with an adjustable part,of a secondary cam mounted to revolve on said primary cam and having a series of slopes to control said adjustable part.
15. The combination, with the sewing-machine and the cooperating drawing mechanism operated by a primary cam, provided with an adjustable part, of a secondary cam revolvin g on the primary cam in harmony therewith, to control said adjustable part automatically.
16. The combination with the sewing-machine and the cooperating drawing mechanism operated by a primary cam provided with an adjustable part, of a secondary cam mounted to revolve on the primary cam to control said adjustable part, a ratchet-wheel carried on the primary cam to operate said secondary cam, and a pawl to actuate said ratchet-wheel in harmony with the primary cam. v
17. The combination, with the sewing-niachine and the cooperating drawing mechanism operated by a primary cam having an adjustable part, of a disk mounted to turn on said primary cam, and secondary adjustingcams mounted adj ustably on said disk.
18. The combination, with the sewing-machine, the drawing mechanism, its operatingrim, and the clutch to engage said rim, of the clutch-operating lever having a longitudinal slot, and a clutch-operating rod held adjustably in said slot and reciprocating connections between said lever and the sewing-machine.
19. The combination, with the sewing-machine and a strip-drawing mechanism operating in harmony therewith, of a strip-slacking mechanism between the drawing mechanisms and the sewing-machine and operating connections between the strip-slacking mechanism and the sewing-machine, whereby the slack of the strip is automatically controlled by the sewing-machine.
20. The combination, with a sewing-machine, and a strip-drawing mechanism oper ating in harmony therewith, of a strip-slacking mechanism controlled by a cam operating in harmony with the strip-drawing mechanism.
21. The combination, with a sewing-machine and a strip-drawing mechanism operating in harmony therewith, of a pair of adj ustable guides for the strip between the sewing mechanism and the drawing mechanism, and operating connections between said ad- 3' ustable guides and the drawing mechanism.
22. The combination, with a sewing-machine, an adjustable strip-drawing mechanism, a strip-dividing mechanism and means.
for adjusting the strip-dividingmechanism to and from the drawing mechanism to accord with the variable advance of the said ad j ustable drawing mechanism.
23. The combination, with a strip-drawing mechanism, of a depending strip-blade, a strip-guiding table carrying a strip-shearing edge to cooperate with said blade, and means for raising said table to divide the strip and at the same time displace the several stripsections from the line of feed.
24:, The combination with thedepending strip-blade, of the strip-guiding table carrying a shearing edge to cooperate with said blade and pivoted to tilt laterally to divide the strip.
25. The combination, with the depending strip-blade and the stripguiding table carry ing' a,v shearingedge to cooperate with said blade, of a cam to raise said table and divide the strip.
26. The combination, with the movable strip-table and the strip-marking device, of mechanism whereby the movable strip-table operates the strip-marking device.
27. The combination with the movable strip-table and the marker pivotally mounted thereon, and having a catch-shoulder, of a catch to temporarily engage said shoulder and operate the marker.
28. The combination, with the strip-table, of the marker pivoted thereon, and the inking-pad pivoted on said table to swing over the marker and be pressed aside thereby.
29. The combination, with a buttonhole stitching machine and afabric-strip-dra'wing mechanism operating intermittently with-the buttonhole-stitching mechanism, of strip dividing and discharging mechanisms, and connecting mechanism whereby the strip-dividing and strip-discharging mechanisms are operated only after a predetermined series of successive buttonhole stitching and drawing operations.
30. The combination with a fabric-stripdrawing mechanism and a strip-dividing chine, a strip-drawing mechanism and a stripdividing mechanism, of a strip-sectionreceiving and discharging table and mechanisms for tilting said table including a cam operating in harmony with the sewing-machine.
33. The combination, with a strip-drawing mechanism, a strip-dividing blade, and a strip dividing and discharging table, of strip-dividing and strip-discharging cams operating said table progressively.
34. The combination, with the depending strip-dividing blade,of the strip-table pivoted to tilt laterally and carrying a strip-dividing blade and cam-followers on opposite sides, and strip-dividin g and stripdischarging cams respectively engaging said followers.-
35. The combination, with a buttonholestitching machine, including a work-clamp and buttonhole-feeding mechanism, of a stripdrawing mechanism operating intermittently therewith, a thread-cutter in juxtaposition to the work-clamp of the machine, and mechanism for operating the thread-cutter between the completion of each buttonhole and the succeeding drawing.
36. The combination, with a, buttonholestitching machine,including buttonhole-feed ing mechanism, of a fabric-strip-drawing mechanism, a thread-cutting mechanism, and
a fabric-strip-dividing mechanism.
37. The combination, with a buttonholestitching machine,including buttonhole-feed ing mechanism, of a fabric strip drawing mechanism, a thread-cutting mechanism, and
a, strip-marking mechanism.
38. The combination, with a buttonholestitchingmachine,includingbuttonholecede ing mechanism, of a fabric-strip-drawing mechanism, a thread-cutting mechanism, a
strip-dividing mechanism and a strip-dis- In testimony whereof I, the said HERBERT charging mechanism. E. HAWES, have hereunto set my hand, in the 10 39. The combination, with a buttonholecity of New York, this 21st day of August, in stitching machine,inc1udingbuttonhole-feedthe year 1894.
ing' mechanism, of a fabric-strip-drawing HERBERT E. HAWES. mechanism, a thread-cutting mechanism, a In presence of strip-dividing mechanism and a strip-mark- CLARENCE L. BURGER,
ing mechanism. EDWIN L. KALISH.
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2944496A (en) * 1957-12-09 1960-07-12 Various Assignees Work indexing mechanism
US2989013A (en) * 1957-09-26 1961-06-20 Singer Mfg Co Sewing machines
US3082719A (en) * 1958-03-12 1963-03-26 Zeitlin Bernard Automatic work positioning attachment for button hole machine

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2989013A (en) * 1957-09-26 1961-06-20 Singer Mfg Co Sewing machines
US2944496A (en) * 1957-12-09 1960-07-12 Various Assignees Work indexing mechanism
US3082719A (en) * 1958-03-12 1963-03-26 Zeitlin Bernard Automatic work positioning attachment for button hole machine

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