US583181A - jambs e - Google Patents

Description

( I 5SheetsSheet 1. J. E. JACKSON.

SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

583,181. Patented May25, 1897.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 2.

v J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MAGHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No. 583,181. Patented May 25, 1897.

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. J. E. JACKSDN.

SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS OR SHOES.

Patented May 25,1897.

7 (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING Boo'rs 0R SHOES.

Patented May 25,1897.-

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

J. E. JACKSON. SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0B,. SHOES. No. 588,181. ,7 Patented May 25,1897.- @1 1 v u: "cams wsrzws cow, PMu'roLyma, WASNINGTDN. o c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEicE.

JAMES E. JACKSON, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF THREE-FIFTI-IS TO MICHAEL HURLEY AND THOMAS F. HART, OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 583,181, dated May 25, 1897.

Application filed June 18, 1896. Serial No. 596,046. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern: or features, as the case may be, wherever Be it known that I, JAMES E. JACKSON, of they occur.

Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Of the drawings, Figure l is a side eleva- Massachusetts, have invented certain new tion of one form of machine in which my inand useful Improvements in Sewing- Mavention is embodied. Fig. 2 is afrontelevachines for Lasting Boot or Shoe Uppers, of tion of the same. Fig. 3 is aplan view. Fig. which the following is a specification. 4. shows in detail the means for feeding the This invention has relation to sewing-mawork for each stitch. Fig. 5 is a detail View, chines for lasting boots or shoes; and it has partly in section, of the pincers for grasping IO numerous objects, to the principal one of the upper and drawing it taut over the last. 6c which I shall briefly refer. Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate two of the cams which The principal object of the invention may are employed. Fig. 8 illustrates the pincers, be said to be to provide a machine forlasting the grippers for the insole, and the slashing shoes to operate in such way that the upper mechanism. Figs. 9, 10, and 11 show in de- 1 5 shall be first drawn taut over the last and then tail some parts of the machine which will be sewed to the insole, with the result that the hereinafter fully described. Fig. 12 shows upper shall be smooth and unwrinkled at in perspective an insole, together with the every point. To attain this object, it is necgrippers for engaging a tape thereon during essary that the edge of the upper shall be the operation of sewing. Fig. 13 illustrates 2o shingled, or, in other words, shall be in detail some of the parts of the machine. slashed, in order that it may stretch or over- Fig. 14 shows a different form of device for lap, as the case may be, to conform to the actuating the pincer-jaw. Figs. 15 and 16 curves of the insole; and it is further necesillustrate an insole provided with a tape to sary that it should be drawn taut over the which the upper is secured by stitches. Figs.

25 last before the stitch is taken. 17 and 18 illustrate an insole provided with My invention therefore consists of a sewa line of stitches instead of a tape. Figs. 19 ing-machine provided with means for slashand 20 are sectional views through Figs. 15 ing the edges of the upper and then sewing and 17, respectively. the latter to the insole, the operations of sew- It will be understood that while I have 0 ing and slashing being continuous, together shown and shall now proceed to describe one So with gripping-jaws for engaging the insole form of sewing-machine in which my invenand means for drawing the upper taut before tion is embodied, yet I do not wish to be unthe needle enters the work. derstood as in any wise limiting myself to The invention likewise consists of improved this particular embodiment of the invention,

5 mechanism for drawing the upper tautover since many of the features of improvement 8' the last and means for engaging the insole may be employed in machines of other kinds to act as an abutment for the thrust of the and other forms. first said means; and it also consists of a In carrying out my invention I employ the novel means for feeding the work during the usual standard Ct, upon which the bed or 40 operation of sewing, whereby the latter is frame 6 of the machine is mounted. The fed forward automatically to the proper exsaid frame is provided with a bed-plate c, tent for each stitch. standards d for supporting the shaft, and a The invention also consists in numerous top plate 6, upon which the operative parts other features of improvement, to which I of the machine are mounted. Power is im- 45 shall not now refer, but which will be hereparted to the several parts of the mechanism 5 inafter explained at length, and set forth in by means of a shaft f, suitably mounted in detail in the claims hereto appended. bearings in the side standards 61. Said shaft Reference is to be had to the drawings and is provided with a driving-wheel g, to which to the letters of reference thereon, the same power may be transmit-ted in any convenient 50 letters indicating the same or similar parts or desirable way.

h is a gooseneek suitably mounted upon the top plate 0, and upon the outer projecting end of which are mounted stitching mechanism, the grippers for the insole, and the means for feeding the work laterally for each stitch, as I shall now proceed to describe.

Across the front end of the gooseneck h is secured a lateral]y-extending support 'i, having a depending arm j, in which and an arm j of the gooseneck is mounted a shaft 7;, upon which are mounted the awl-carrier Z and the needle-carrier m. The needle-carrier is movable longitudinally of the shaft It, being held in its normal position by a spring a, abutting against the depending armsj". Said carrier is provided with an upwardly-projectingarm 0, connected by a link 1) with a slotted lever q, suitably pivoted in an ear '1' on the top plate and extending down into position to be engaged by a cam s, rigidly mounted upon the shaft f. The leverqhas a roller 25, projecting into a cam-track u in the cam-disk s, the latter being shown in detail in Fig. 7. When the cam-disk s is revolved, the lever q reciproeates the link 1), which in turn causes an oscillation of the needle-carrier m. The awlcarrier Z is mounted upon the shaft 7t and is provided with an upward]y-extendin g arm '0, pivoted to a link in, the latter being connected to a lever a:, mounted upon one of the standards (Z and having on its lower end a roller y, projecting into a cam-slot a in the inner face of a ca1n-disk5,fixed upon the shaft-f. The cams s and are of such peculiar shape that the awl is first driven through the work while the needle remains in its raised position, and

the awl and the needle are both rocked together until the needle penetrates the work and engages the thread on the under side thereof preparatory to drawing it up therethrough, and there are combined with these parts such mechanism that when the needle reaches the end of its throw the awl is moved farther backwardly and the needle and the work engaged thereby are both fed laterally to present a new portion of the work to the grippers and pincers, as will be hereinafter described.

The means for moving the needle-carrier longitudinally of the shaft 7.: consist of a sleeve b, rigidly connected with the awl-carrier and provided with a cam-face c, with which is engaged a pin (Z, projecting from an arm f, extending down from a plate f sliding with the needle-carrier, said plate f being held in place against the plate 1' on the gooseneck by a roller m journaled in a bracket 1t", rigidly secured to said plate 1'. The arm 1'' is separated from the needle-carrier by a sleeve or hub c. The cam-sleeve b is so arranged with relation to the pin (1' that the latter is not forced longitudinally of the shaft 7; until the needle has reached the end of its throw and has engaged the work, so that the work may be fed along with the needle.

\Vhile any stitch-forming mechanism may be employed that is well adapted for the purpose, yet I sometimes prefer to use that which is illustrated in the drawings. The needle a is suitably mounted in its carrier m, it being provided with the usual east-off, for which there is a friction-strip I), mounted on the plate f, sliding with the needle-carrier. The looping mechanism is illustrated in detail in Figs. 9, 10, and 11. It consists of a curved arm (Z having an eyelet at c for the thread. The arm is held in a pivoted lever f by a setscrew the lever f being pivoted in a slotted bar 71 mounted upon a bar 1*, rigid on the gooseneck. A cam 7' on the awl-carrier engages theend of the lever of the looper and carries the arm d" and the thread therewith down past the needle, so as to form a loop on the same.

I have not shown in detail the needle, the cast-off, and the friction-strip for the cast-off, as they do not form an essential part of my invention, and I lay no claim to the same. The looper, however, is peculiar in that it is mounted on a bar rigidly secured to and extending down from the goosencck, being operated by the awl-carrier. The bar 7L3, on which the looper-lever is mounted, may be adjusted back and forth by reason of the slot through which the screw 0" passes to secure it to the arm 5 I shall now proceed to describe the grippers for engaging the insole and the pincers for drawing the upper taut over the last and holdit while the needle is passed therethrough.

The grippers consist of a fixed serrated jaw g on the end of a strip h, secured to one of the arms j. The movable jaw i is pivoted at j' in an eye, projecting from the strip h. It has pivoted to it at L a curved arm Z, the latter having its end extending in over the shaft 7;. (Shown in Figs. 1 and 13.) The awl-carrier Z is provided with a pin m, adapted to intermittingly engage a head a on the end of the curved arm Z. \Vhen the awl-carrier is moved during the last part of its throw, the pin m engages the head 11 and drawing upon the arm Z rocks the jaw i away from the jaw g of the grippers, so as to release the work. As the pin on forces the arm Z forward the head engages a hook 0, which lifts it from engagement with the pin m, and a spring 19 forces the jaw Z shut, drawing the arm Z back into its normal position. A small helical spring q connects the arm Z with the jaw-lever, so as to draw the former down into position to be engaged by the pin m, it being free to rise for allowing the said pin m to slip thereunder when the movement of the awl is reversed. In Fig. 12 the grippers are shown as clasping a tape B, stitched to an insole A, as I shall hereinafter explain.

The pincers for engaging the edge of the upper and drawing it taut over the last are shown in detail in Fig. 5, to which reference is to be had. The pincers consist of two jaws r and s, respectively. The jaw 7 is mounted upon the end of a pivoted lever Z mounted in the standards to.

and the jaw s is slidingly connected with a pivoted lever a, the two levers being both pivoted upon a pivot-rod o, suitably journalled in standards w in the bed-plate. The levers are crossed, the lower end of lever i being apertured to receive a stop screw or pin 00, there being a spring 3 coiled around said pin or screw and pressing against the end of the said lever. The jaw s has an extension z', projecting through an aperture in which is a stud (1 said extension being connected with a crank-pint) by means of a link 0 The stud a is riveted or otherwise secured in the lever u and serves as a guide for the extension .2 of the movable jaws s. The crank-pin 12 extends up from a shaft d It will be observed that when the shaft 61 is oscillated the jaw s will be reciprocated relatively to the lever to. The two levers are bodily rocked by means of a vertically-reciprocating rod e pivoted to a lever f which latter is pivoted at one end in a boss g extending out from one of the side standards d and having on its other end a roller extending into a cam-slot in a disk'h mounted on the shaft f. The cam-disk h2 is shown in detail in Fig. 6. The

cam-slot is of such shape that the link or bar e will be held in its lowest position throughout the greater portion of a rotation of the disk, but will be elevated during a short period of time while the disk traverses about one-fourth of its rotation. At the upper end the link 6 is provided with a cam-lever t bearing against a plate j which projects over and rests upon the top of lever to. The last said lever 'tt' is provided with a pin k abutting against lever t, so that when the link 6 is forced downward the cam-lever i bodily rocks levers t and u and throws grippers 7" and s upward. The spring y, together with a spring Z forces the levers into their normal position when the pressure upon the lever u is removed, as will be understood. For sliding the jaw 8 through the medium of the shaft d I employ a crank m on the end of the latter. The crank is connected bya link n with a lever 0 pivoted to one of the side standards d at p The disk 2 is provided on its outer face with a cam-groove (12, into which a roller on the end of an arm 0' on the lever 0 extends. As the disk 2 rotates the shaft 61 will be rocked at intervals, drawing the jaw 8 toward and from the jaw r.

The parts are so timed that when the front ends of levers t and u are depressed by reason of the elevation of the link or bar 6 the jaw s will be withdrawn. Then it will be thrust back to engage the jaw r and the two will be bodily lifted by the bar or link e It happens, when a tip is to be sewed on with the upper, that the pincer-jaws cannot come as close together as when no tip is sewed,and hence I usually construct the lever o as shown in Fig. 14.that is to say, it is given a quarter-turn at a and has its upper end tempered so as to provide a yielding spring which will allow the jaws to grip two thicknesses of material without those dangerour results which are apt to be reached when no spring action is allowed for.

The manner in which the grippers, the pincers, the needle, awl, and the other parts which I have described cooperate will be eX- plained later on.

I shall now describe the knife and its coacting parts, by means of which the edge of the upper is shingled or slashed during the op eration of sewing the upper to the insole.

s is a longitudinally-reoiprocatory bar provided with a downwardly-extendin g end piece 15 to which is secured a triangular knife a projecting rearwardly. The rear end of the bar 3 is pivoted to a lever r the latter itself being pivoted at 10 to the frame of the ma chine. The said lever 41 has on its lower projecting end a roller 00 in the path ofa cam pin or projection 31* on the disk .2. .The bar is normally held in its forward position by means of a spring a, connected to the lever 12 and to the standard to. When the cam pin or projection y engages the roller 00 it draws the knife sharply rearward and causes it to penetrate the edge of the upper, which at this time is held taut by the grippers and the pincers. The said knife is preferably formed with a sharp point and with two cutting edges, so that instead of cutting the upper from the edge it penetrates the upper and cuts it in both directions.

In sewing the upper to the insole the latter, which is indicated by A, is provided, as has been before stated, with a tape 13, sewed thereon at some little distance from the edge of the same, as shown in Figs. 12, 13, 14, and 17, but while I prefer to employ an insole of this nature it will be understood that I may employ an insole having a thread 0, formed in loops thereon, as shown in Figs. 15, 16, and 18, or else, if desired, I may sew the upper to a welted insole.

When the machine is to be employed in the operation of sewing an upper to an insole, the following steps are performed by the various parts of the machine: Assuming that the parts are in the position shown in Fig. 1, and that the tape B has been grasped between the grippers z" and g, and the edge of the upper has been drawn taut over the last by the pincers and is firmly gripped by the same, the rotation of the shaft f causes the link 10 to be forced forward, throwing the arm 1) of the awl-carrier forward and causing the awl to penetrate the tape and the upper. During this movement of the awl the cam projection 11 on the cam-disk z engages the roller 00 of the lever 0 drawing the slasherblade rearward with a quick movement, and since the upper is held taut at this time by the pincers 'the knife makes a cut in the edge thereof, as has been explained. The knife is not held in itsrearward position, but immediately returns to its normal position. Then the awl starts back toward its normal position, and as it moves back the needle follows it closely, being drawn down by the link and the lever q, as has been stated. \Vhen the needle reaches the end of its throw, the cam 7L2 causes the bar or link 6 to rise and release the pincer-levers 25 and u, and at about the same time the cam-slot g in the disk .2 throws the lever 0 rearward, and the shaft (1 being rocked, draws backward the jaw s. lVhen this is being performed, the pin m on the awl-carrier engages the head a on the curved arm Z and causes the jaw v." to move away from the jaw g of the grippers. The tape and the upper now being both released the continued movement of the awl causes the cam-face of the hub b to engage the pin (1 and force the needle-carrier along the shaft k, the needle during this movement remaining stationary. The further movement of the awl causes the head n on the curved arm Z to engage the hook o, with the result that the said head is released from the pin on, allowing the jaw i of the gripper to engage a fresh portion of the tape and clamp it against the stationary jaw g. At the same time the lever o rocks the shaft d forward and the jaw s of the pincers engages the upper and forces it upward until it is clamped between the said jaw and the jaw r. IVhen this has been done, the bar or link 6 is depressed and the cam -1ever i engages the pincer-lever u, drawin the upper firmly over the last. By this time the forward motion of the awl has stopped and the shaft f has nearly completed one rotation. As it completes its rotation, however, the awl is carried from its foremost position to the po sition shown in Fig. 1. hen this has been done, the shaft f has made a complete rotation, and as it rotates continuously the parts perform the same functions as I have described. The grippers may be said to act as an abutment for the thrust of the pincers,

inasmuch as the insole is pressed tightly against and is held by the same.

While I have herein stated that the needlecarrier, by which the feeding of the work is accomplished, is moved longitudinally of its supporting-shaft by the awl-carrier, yet it will be understood that I do not limit myself to machines employing an awl, since the awl may be dispensed with and any other mechanism for accomplishing the same purpose in the same way may be employed in lieu thereof.

By employing a slasher-blade for shingling the edges of the upper I am enabled to sew the upper upon the insole in such way that when the operation is completed the upper is smooth and unwrinkled, since the out edges will overlap at the toe and along the outward curves and will gap or stretch at the inward curves, as at the shank, so as to allow the leather of the upper to adapt itself to the peculiar shape of the last on which it is formed.

The movement of the pincers is such that one jaw of the same reaches down and engaging the upper draws it taut over the last and then grips it against the other jaw. The two jaws then firmly clamping it draw it up into position where it may be engaged by the needle and firmly sewed to the tape on the insole.

The cooperation of the slasher-knife with the needle and the grippers and pincers is peculiar and produces a novel and important result. As has been stated, the shingling or cutting of the edge of the upper allows the edge to either overlap or strike under the insole, according to the conformation of the latter, and in rounding the toe the overlapping of the cut edges is accomplished automatically. The upper is held taut and slashed, and the needle is passed throughit and the tape, and then when the pincers grip the upper in a new place, the last now being moved to a sufficient angle relatively to the latter, the edge of the upper is drawn taut, so as to overlap the previous strip or cutedge. This occurs continuously until the toe is rounded, with the result that the slit edges overlap and form a neat flat plait at the toe. The last is moved in the hands of the operator for the pincers to grip the upper while the needle is in the stock, so that the last is swung around the needle as a pivot in rounding the toe, and the pincers must necessarily draw the upper to overlap the preceding slit edge.

Having thus described one form of machine in which my invention may be embodied, without having attempted to set forth all of the forms in which the various parts thereof may be embodied, I now declare that what I claim is- 1. A sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes provided with grippers for the insole, and pincers for the upper, combined with means for causing the grippers and the pincers to intermittingly release the work, and means for feeding the said work when it is released as aforesaid, substantially for the purposes set forth.

2. Inasewing-maehine forlastingboots and shoes, the combination with the sewing mechanism, of a pincers for the upper, a gripper for positively gripping and holding the insole to resist the thrust of the pincers, means for causing the pincers to intermittingly release the upper, and an automatic feeding mechanism for feeding the work when the upper is released by the pincers.

3. Inasewing-machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination with a pincers for drawing the upper taut over the last and holding it in a taut condition, grippers for positively gripping the insole to resist the thrust of the pincers, and a needle, of means for causing the pincers to release the upper, and means for moving the needle and the work laterally when the upper is released.

4. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the needle, of an intermittingly-acting gripperhavin g two jaws for the insole, and an intermittingly-acting pincers for the uppers.

5. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with gripper-jaws for the insole, a pincers for the upper, an awl, and a needle, of means for causing the pincers and grippingjaws to grasp the work when the awl penetrates the latter and for causing them to release the work when the needle has penetrated it, and means for moving the needle laterally, for the purpose set forth.

6. -In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the gripper for a tape or similar device on an insole, a pincers for the upper, and stitching mechanism for sewing the upper to the tape, of an awl, and means coacting therewith for causing the gripper to release the tape intermittin gl y, for the purpose set forth.

7. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the stitching mechanism, of a pincers for the upper having two jaws, and means for moving the pincers bodily to carry the edge of the upper toward the stitching mechanism, said pincers having one jaw movable independently of the other jaw for drawing the upper taut over the last before it is engaged between the two jaws thereof.

8. Inasewing-machine forlasting boots and shoes, the combination with the stitching mechanism, of pincers for the upper, consisting of two pivoted levers, each having a jaw on the end, one of said jaws being movable relatively to its lever, for the purpose set forth.

9. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the stitching mechanism, of a pincers for the upper, consisting of two pivoted levers, each provided witha jaw, one of said jaws being movable relatively to its supporting-lever, means for swinging said levers on their pivot, and means for moving said movable jaw relatively to its lever, for the purpose set forth.

10. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the stitching mechanism, and a pincers for the upper, of means for feeding the work laterally, and a knife movable independently of the pincers.

11. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the stitching mechanism, and a pincers for the upper, of means for feeding the work laterally, a movable knife, and means independent of the pincers for moving the knife to engage and cut the upper.

12. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a stitch-form- .ing mechanism, and a pincers for the upper,

of a knife movable relatively to said pincers to cut the edge of the upper, and means for moving said knife when the pincers has engaged the upper.

13. Ina sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, of a movable knife, and means In ovable independently of said knife for drawing the upper taut over the last prior to the movement of the knife.

14. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism, and a gripper for the insole, of a movable knife, and means for moving said knife to engage and out the upper.

15. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a needle-carrier, and an awl-carrier, of a looper mounted on a stationary support, and a cam operated by the awl-carrier for causing the looper to throw the thread over the needle.

16. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a needle-carrier, and an awl-carrier, of a looper mounted on a stationary support, and a cam operated by the awl-carrier for causing the looper to throw the thread over the needle, said looper consisting of a pivoted lever and a curved arm adjustably held in said lever.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 10th day of June, A. D. 1896.

JAMES E. JACKSON.

IVitnesses O. F. BROWN, MARoUs B. MAY.

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