US462865A - Button-hole-stitching machine - Google Patents

Button-hole-stitching machine Download PDF

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US462865A
US462865A US462865DA US462865A US 462865 A US462865 A US 462865A US 462865D A US462865D A US 462865DA US 462865 A US462865 A US 462865A
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button
hole
stitch
work
clamp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B3/00Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes

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  • the throatplate In the patent referred to the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, the throatplate, and the cutting mechanism is made movable in the direction of the length of the button-hole, while the work-clamp is held sta tionary, and it is only While the throat-plate is between the members of the work-clamp that the edge of the button-hole is being 5 stitched.
  • This present invention has for its object to so improve the class of button-hole machines in which the button-hole is both cut and worked on the same machine that the said machines may be made very much more productive than heretofore.
  • Figure 1 in side elevation with the lower frame partiallybroken out, shows a sufficient portion of a well-k nown button-hole-stitching machine with my improvements added to enable my invention to be understood, the said figure showing the cutting mechanism in position to cut the material after the latter shall have been put into the work-holder and clamped therein.
  • Fig. 2 is a partial plan view with the overhanging arm of the stitchcarrying frame and with the upper blade of the cutting mechanism and its carrier removed.
  • 3 and 4 show details of an arm which co-operates with a controller-bar to stop and start the stitch-forming mechanism to overstitch the edges of the button-hole.
  • Figs. 5 and 6 are respectively an edge and top view of the controlling-bar detached.
  • Figs. 1 in side elevation with the lower frame partiallybroken out, shows a sufficient portion of a well-k nown button-hole-stitching machine with my improvements added to enable my invention to be understood, the said figure showing the cutting mechanism in position to cut the material after the latter
  • Fig. 7 and 8 are respectively an edge and plan view of the feed-controlling block.
  • Fig. 9 is a detail chiefly to show the actuating mechanism for the feeding and spacing mechanism, the saidactuating mechanism serving to increase the effective speed of the feeding while the stitch-forming mechanism is not acting to stitcha button-hole slit.
  • FigJlO is a section in the dotted line 00, Fig. 9.
  • Fig. 11 is a detail showing parts of the feeding mechanism; Fig. 12, a modification to be described;.and Fig. 13 shows the lever 33 detached.
  • the frame-work a the stationary plate a, having ways upon which the said frame travels, the lowerframe a to which in Figs. 1 and -2 the plate a is shown as pivoted by pivotsa", the main. shaft a having upon it within the frame a suitable eccentrics and cams to actuate the' stitch-forming mechanism, including a needle-bar I), having a needle d and a gear 61 engaged by a segmentlever e, pivoted at (2 the eccentric 55, the rock-shaft 71, having an arm 74, provided with a stud 75, the curb a connected to or forming part of the frame a, the cuttingbed g attached to the curb a, the cuttingblade G carried by the lever G, pivoted at G, the cars 24, rising from the lower members m of the work-clamp attached to the plate a, the pivoted fingers 22, carrying the upper serrated members an of the workclamp, the L-shaped blocks 26, pivoted thereto, the arms 29, the rock-shaft 30, to which they are connected,
  • the patent referred to had a belt-pulley loose on the shaft a and co-operating with it was a clutch, which was controlled by the stud of the lever 74 when the rock-shaft 71 was moved, so as to start in operation the stitch-forming mechanismat the proper time and to stop the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism after the stitching of the second straight side of the button-hole.
  • the rock-shaft 71 has an arm cl, provided with a toe d and upon this arm is loosely pivoted a toe e the said toe serving, in connection with the cam projection (3', (see Figs. 5 and 6 on the controller-bar e to lift the arm 01' and place the toe d upon the shelf 6 forming part of the controller-bar, the said arm, when turned to place the toe upon the shelf, effecting the release of the clutch used, so that the belt-pulley is made fast to and will rotate theshaft a and start in operation the stitch-forming mechanism, the said shaft continuing to rotate and actuate the stitchforming mechanism, while the latterstitches along one side of and about the end and along the second side of the button-hole, at which time the toe drops from the abrupt end of the shelf, causing the stud 75 to come in the path of and effect the disengagement of the clutch fast with relation. to the shaft a from the loose belt-pulley, thus stopping the stitchforming mechanism.
  • the said lever has been slotted at 72 and the slot receives a movable fulcrum 7L5, mounted on an adjustable fulcrumcarrier h, pivoted on a hub 7L extended laterally from the frame a, and through which hub is extended the rock-shaft 71.
  • the lever 7L3 at its rear side, as best shown in Fig. 10, has an arm 77. provided with a pin or projection, which enters a guide-slot in an arm h, forming part of a bracket extended from the plate a, the sole purpose of the arm it referred to and of the projection entering therein being to prevent vertical movement of the lever h but yet not interfere with the positive vibrations to be imparted to it by or through the connecting rod or link 7t.
  • the particular shape of the projection h or the particular part of the mechanism which supports it is immaterial.
  • the eccentric 55, the connecting-rod h,lever 71 and rod 7L constitute what- I denominate the actuating mechanism for feeding or changing the relative positions of the stitch forming and cutting mechanism on the one part with relation to the work-clamp on the other part, while the adjustable fulcrum-carrier and cam-block it constitute the mechanism by which to automatically increase the movement of the rod 79 and consequently the speed of the frame aduringthe time that the said frame is being moved to put the cut ting mechanism into and out of operative position with relation to the work-clamp; but this invention is not intended to be limited to the exact devices shown for producing the feeding and spacing movements or to the exact actuating devices, as the said devices may be variously modified Without departing from my inventionas, for instance, instead I may use any suitable devices for engaging and rotating the wheel j, or for varying the fulcrum of the lever 7L3 between the time of completing the stitching of one button-hole and the time of commencing the stitching of the next button-hole.
  • the inner end of the rod It plays through a suitable guide h, connected preferably with the lower frame of, and strikes the dog 49, fullydescribed in the said Patent No. 349,359 referred to, the dog biting upon or engaging the cylindrical curb 50, rising from the plate or wheel j, the said wheel in its step-by-step rotation causing the frame a and stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby to travel on the usual ways of the plate a, so that the throat-plate C may be made to travel longitudinally between the spread or open members of the work-clamp, while the stitchforming mechanism is operated to stitch along one straight side of and about the eye, and back along the other straight side of a button-hole slit, all as provided for in the said Patent No. 349,359.
  • the eccentric 55 working through the eccentricstrap h, will actuate it and the lever 71 positively, uniformly, and silently, or without blows or shocks, as would be the case if the eccentric struck a lever, as in said Patent No. 349,359, and as the fulcrum 7L5 for the lever 7L3 is varied, the throw of the rod 7i will be greater or less, and consequently the dog 49 will have a greater or less throw and move the frame a faster or slower.
  • one of the arms 29 of the rockshaft 30, common to the latter patent is provided with a stand 69, upon which is pivoted at 70 a locking-bar 77, normally held up by a spring 72, so as to engage a toe 73, connected to the dog 49.
  • a stand 69 upon which is pivoted at 70 a locking-bar 77, normally held up by a spring 72, so as to engage a toe 73, connected to the dog 49.
  • the toe 73 rides up over the inclined outer end of the locking-bar 77 until just about as the cloth-cutting devices come into correct working position, when the locking-bar 77 moves upwardly and engages the toe 73, thus locking the feed-dog and preventing its further movement, and consequently any further movement of the frame 0 until after the locking device is released.
  • the fulcrum h is nearest the pivot 7L2 of the lever as the feeding mechanism starts or is put in touch with the rodh and at this time the speed of the feeding movement is the faster, for the arm of the lever lbs to which the rod h is connected is the longer.
  • the lever h has a finger h gprovided with aroll 71 which meets the incline 66 of the feed-regulating cam-block 7b as the frame a is being moved to the right, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, and just at the time that the rock-shaft 71 is turned to start ICC the stitch-forming mechanism in operation.
  • This movement imparted to the lever h as the roll h goes up the incline 66 is such as to shorten the stroke of the rod h and decrease the speed of the feeding or-spacing movementof the frame a.
  • the frame a is near the end of its stroke to the right, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, the stitch-forming mechanism, as provided for in said Patent No. 349,359, stitches about the eye of'the button-hole, and at this time it is desirable to yet further shorten the stroke of the rod 71 and the stitch, and to do this I have provided the block referred to with a second incline 67, (see Fig. 9,) against which the roll 77. strikes.
  • the roller h travels down the incline 66 and a suitable spring 68,aoting upon the lever h, aids in moving the fulcrum 72, upwardly in the slot 72 to thus increase the stroke of the rod 72, to'quickly increase the speed of movement of the feeding mechanism and frame while the cutting mechanism carried by the said frame is being moved forward into correct position with relation to the work-clamp to receive between its members the work which is to be next clamped between the jaws thereof.
  • the locking-bar 7 '7 again engages the toe 73 and stops the mechanism, it remaining stopped while the piece of material having a buttonhole properly stitched is taken out from the work-clamp and the material is again put into the work-clamp to be again out for anew button-hole to-be stitched.
  • the locking device 77 might be applied to advantage to the machine shown in United States Patent No. 349,359, the said locking device engaging a suitable pin or projection at the lower end of the lever which actuates the dog 49, to thus hold locked the lower end of the said lever to keep its upper end out of the range of movement of the rod It.
  • the screw 80 carried by the lever h, the said screw acting upon the finger h, the fulcrum 72, of the lever 77.3 will be moved toward the lower end of the said lever, and consequently the number of stitches put into the button-hole will be increased, and vice versa.
  • Fig.1 the plate Ct is shown as united by suitable usual pivotscrews to the lower frame abut in the plan last proposed these pivot-pins a would enter suitable holes in the curb a and the curb may have lugs 81- ting mechanism and stitch-formin-g mechanism,.a work-clamp, feeding and spacing-mechanism, and actuating mechanism for the said feeding and spacing mechanism,and devices to automatically increase the effective speed of the feeding and spacing mechanism after the stitching of the button-hole and while the cutting mechanism is being put into and removed from position with relation to the work-clamp, or between the times of operat ing the stitch-forming mechanism for the pro duction of two button-holes insuc'cess'ion, substantially as described.
  • Abutton-hole-stitching machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: a frame provided with a throat-plate, cloth-cutting mechanism and stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, feeding and spacing mechanism, and actuating mechanism for the said feeding and spacing mechanism, and devices to automatically increase the effective speed of the feeding and spacing mechanism after the stitching of a button-hole and while the cutting mechanism is being put into and removed from position with relation to the work-clamp, or between the times of operating the stitch-forming mechanism for the production of two button-holes in succession, and devices to automatically start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to stitch the material, the feeding and spacing mechanism at such time moving at a slower speed, substantially as described.
  • a button-hole-stitchin g machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: a feeding mechanism containing a feed-lever, an eccentric, a connecting-rod actuated there by to move the feed-lever, a cam and a dog, and means between the said lever and dog to actuate the latter, a movable fulcrum and fulcrum-carrier, and a cam-block to autom ati- IIO cally change the position of the said fulcrumcarrier to lengthen the effective stroke of the lever and consequently the speed of the machine in order that the speed of the feeding movement may be automatically increased at the desired time, substantially as described.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 1.
G. S. HILL.
BUTTON HOLE STITOHING MAGHINE.
No. 462,865. Patented'Nov. 10,1891.
dam 9% M 9 43 (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet- 2.
G. S. HILL.
BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.
N0.-462,865. Patented N v. 10, 1891.
(No Model.) 5 SheetsSh.eet 3.
G. S. HILL.
BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.
Patented Nov. 10,1891.
(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4. G. S. HILL. BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.
"No. 462,865. Patented Nov. 10,1891.
lg 8157098665. Ir vveniimr' aha/m5 E w ygf (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 G. S. HILL. BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.
No. 462,865. Patented Nov. 10, 1891.
wmsw: W @514;
mxfma z EM 7 @a UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
GEORGE S. HILL, OF BRADFORD, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON-HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.
BUTTON-HOLE-STITCHING MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 462,865, dated November 10, 1891.
Application filed March 23, 1891- Serial No. 386,044. (No model.)
To ctZZ whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, GEORGE S. HILL, of Bradford, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Button-Hole-Stitehing Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specificatiomlike letters on the drawings representing like parts.
to United States Patent No. 3%),359, dated September 21, 1886, shows and describes a machine for stitching button-holes, the said machine containing the following elements, viz: a work-clamp; a stitch-forming mechanism and cooperating throat-palte, the latter supporting the edges of the material while the stitch-forming mechanism acts to overstitch one straight side of a button-hole slit, the eye thereof, and along the other straight side of the said slit; a button-hole-cutting mechanism which at the proper time, as after a button-hole has been finished, is put into position with relation to the work-clamp so that when the material in which a button hole has just been stitched has been removed from the work-clamp and the material again reclamped the cutter may be again operated to cut the material for the next button-hole to be overstitched, the cutting mechanism being thereafter retracted until the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clam p are again brought into proper working position with relation to the work in the work-clamp to stitch the said slit, and feeding mechanism to effect the feed- 5 ing of the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism to thus space the stitches.
In the patent referred to the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, the throatplate, and the cutting mechanism is made movable in the direction of the length of the button-hole, while the work-clamp is held sta tionary, and it is only While the throat-plate is between the members of the work-clamp that the edge of the button-hole is being 5 stitched.
In the patent mentioned about one-half of the time occupied by the movement in each direction of the frame carrying the stitchforming mechanism is consumed for the stitch- 5o ing operation, the other half of the time being consumed in moving the cutting mechanism into and out of operative position with relation to the work-clamp to cut the mate rial held therein and then to retire.
I desire it to be understood that prior to my invention it has also been common to move the work-clamp longitudinally while the straight sides of the button-hole are being stitched, the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism and throat-plate remaining fixed, and consequently my invention would not be departed from by simply moving the work-clamp longitudinally or in the direction of the length of the button-hole slit, instead of moving the stitch-forming mechanism in the direction of the straight sides of the but-- ton-hole slit, for one plan is a well-known equivalent forthe other; and by the term to change the relative positions of the workclamp on the one part and the stitch-forming 7o mechanism and throat-plate on the other part I mean and intend to cover moving either the stitch-forming mechanism and throat-plate along the edges of the buttonhole slit or moving the clamp to carry the edges of the button-hole slitalong the throat plate and between the members of the stitchforming mechanism, and in themachine herein to be described, with but very slight alterations, which will be designated, it will be seen that the work-clamp may be made to travel longitudinally and the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism be left stationary.
This present invention has for its object to so improve the class of button-hole machines in which the button-hole is both cut and worked on the same machine that the said machines may be made very much more productive than heretofore. I have accom- 9o plished this by combining with the feeding and spacing mechanism, which moves either the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism and throat-plate or the work-clamp longitudinally in the direction of the length of the button-hole slit to space the stitches, actuating mechanism for the said feeding and spacing mechanism and devices to automatically increase the effective movement of the said actuating mechanism, so that when the stitch-forming mechanism is not operating to stitch a button-hole the feeding will be more rapid than when the stitch-forming mechanism is operating to stitch. There is a limit beyond which the feeding speed during stitching cannot be increased, but the limit of the feeding speed during the time that the cutting mechanism is being'put into and moved out of operative position with relation to the work-clamp may be as fast as the mechanism employed can perform its work.
Figure 1, in side elevation with the lower frame partiallybroken out, shows a sufficient portion of a well-k nown button-hole-stitching machine with my improvements added to enable my invention to be understood, the said figure showing the cutting mechanism in position to cut the material after the latter shall have been put into the work-holder and clamped therein. Fig. 2 is a partial plan view with the overhanging arm of the stitchcarrying frame and with the upper blade of the cutting mechanism and its carrier removed. 3 and 4 show details of an arm which co-operates with a controller-bar to stop and start the stitch-forming mechanism to overstitch the edges of the button-hole. Figs. 5 and 6 are respectively an edge and top view of the controlling-bar detached. Figs. 7 and 8 are respectively an edge and plan view of the feed-controlling block. Fig. 9 is a detail chiefly to show the actuating mechanism for the feeding and spacing mechanism, the saidactuating mechanism serving to increase the effective speed of the feeding while the stitch-forming mechanism is not acting to stitcha button-hole slit. FigJlO is a section in the dotted line 00, Fig. 9. Fig. 11 is a detail showing parts of the feeding mechanism; Fig. 12, a modification to be described;.and Fig. 13 shows the lever 33 detached.
The frame-work a, the stationary plate a, having ways upon which the said frame travels, the lowerframe a to which in Figs. 1 and -2 the plate a is shown as pivoted by pivotsa", the main. shaft a having upon it within the frame a suitable eccentrics and cams to actuate the' stitch-forming mechanism, including a needle-bar I), having a needle d and a gear 61 engaged by a segmentlever e, pivoted at (2 the eccentric 55, the rock-shaft 71, having an arm 74, provided with a stud 75, the curb a connected to or forming part of the frame a, the cuttingbed g attached to the curb a, the cuttingblade G carried by the lever G, pivoted at G, the cars 24, rising from the lower members m of the work-clamp attached to the plate a, the pivoted fingers 22, carrying the upper serrated members an of the workclamp, the L-shaped blocks 26, pivoted thereto, the arms 29, the rock-shaft 30, to which they are connected, the spring-plates 28, carried by the arms 29 and engaging the hooked lower ends of the blocks 26 when depressed by the cam-lever 33 to close the work-clamp, the throat-plate O, which supports the edges of the material to be stitched while held in the clamp, andthe feeding and spacing mechanism composed, essentially, of the cam-wheel j, having a rim 50, engaged by a clutch-dog 49, the dog in its movements engaging and rotating the said wheel intermittingly, the cam 57, to close the cutting mechanism and the stationary stud, are and maybe all substantially as in United States Patent No. 349,359, to which reference may be had, wherein the said parts are designated by like letters, and herein all the said parts will be operated as provided for in the said patent, with the exception of the dog 49, forming part of the feeding and spacing mechanism, which dog, in accordance with my invention, is operated by novel devices which I have added to the machine.
The patent referred to had a belt-pulley loose on the shaft a and co-operating with it was a clutch, which was controlled by the stud of the lever 74 when the rock-shaft 71 was moved, so as to start in operation the stitch-forming mechanismat the proper time and to stop the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism after the stitching of the second straight side of the button-hole.
Herein I have shown as applied to the shaft a a belt-pulley and clutch such as contained in United States Patent No. 367,063, dated July 26,1887, which patent is an improvement upon the clutch pulley contrivance represented in Patent No. 349,359.
The rock-shaft 71 has an arm cl, provided with a toe d and upon this arm is loosely pivoted a toe e the said toe serving, in connection with the cam projection (3', (see Figs. 5 and 6 on the controller-bar e to lift the arm 01' and place the toe d upon the shelf 6 forming part of the controller-bar, the said arm, when turned to place the toe upon the shelf, effecting the release of the clutch used, so that the belt-pulley is made fast to and will rotate theshaft a and start in operation the stitch-forming mechanism, the said shaft continuing to rotate and actuate the stitchforming mechanism, while the latterstitches along one side of and about the end and along the second side of the button-hole, at which time the toe drops from the abrupt end of the shelf, causing the stud 75 to come in the path of and effect the disengagement of the clutch fast with relation. to the shaft a from the loose belt-pulley, thus stopping the stitchforming mechanism.
The devices thus far described and referred to specifically by letter are not of my invention.
I have-applied'to the frame a" a feed-regulating cam-block h, and about the eccentric 55, near'the outer end of the shaft a I have applied an eccentric-strap and connecting-rod h. The rod h is jointed by the pin 72 to the upper end of the lever 713, provided at its lower end with a rod 71. adapted to strike and move a clutch-dog 49, common to the said patent. To enable the lever h to reciprocate the rod h for a greater or less distance and consequently move the dog 49 more or less to increase or lessen, as desired, the
feed-speed, the said lever has been slotted at 72 and the slot receives a movable fulcrum 7L5, mounted on an adjustable fulcrumcarrier h, pivoted on a hub 7L extended laterally from the frame a, and through which hub is extended the rock-shaft 71. The lever 7L3 at its rear side, as best shown in Fig. 10, has an arm 77. provided with a pin or projection, which enters a guide-slot in an arm h, forming part of a bracket extended from the plate a, the sole purpose of the arm it referred to and of the projection entering therein being to prevent vertical movement of the lever h but yet not interfere with the positive vibrations to be imparted to it by or through the connecting rod or link 7t. This being the case, the particular shape of the projection h or the particular part of the mechanism which supports it is immaterial.
The eccentric 55, the connecting-rod h,lever 71 and rod 7L constitute what- I denominate the actuating mechanism for feeding or changing the relative positions of the stitch forming and cutting mechanism on the one part with relation to the work-clamp on the other part, while the adjustable fulcrum-carrier and cam-block it constitute the mechanism by which to automatically increase the movement of the rod 79 and consequently the speed of the frame aduringthe time that the said frame is being moved to put the cut ting mechanism into and out of operative position with relation to the work-clamp; but this invention is not intended to be limited to the exact devices shown for producing the feeding and spacing movements or to the exact actuating devices, as the said devices may be variously modified Without departing from my inventionas, for instance, instead I may use any suitable devices for engaging and rotating the wheel j, or for varying the fulcrum of the lever 7L3 between the time of completing the stitching of one button-hole and the time of commencing the stitching of the next button-hole. The inner end of the rod It plays through a suitable guide h, connected preferably with the lower frame of, and strikes the dog 49, fullydescribed in the said Patent No. 349,359 referred to, the dog biting upon or engaging the cylindrical curb 50, rising from the plate or wheel j, the said wheel in its step-by-step rotation causing the frame a and stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby to travel on the usual ways of the plate a, so that the throat-plate C may be made to travel longitudinally between the spread or open members of the work-clamp, while the stitchforming mechanism is operated to stitch along one straight side of and about the eye, and back along the other straight side of a button-hole slit, all as provided for in the said Patent No. 349,359.
It will be understood that the eccentric 55, working through the eccentricstrap h, will actuate it and the lever 71 positively, uniformly, and silently, or without blows or shocks, as would be the case if the eccentric struck a lever, as in said Patent No. 349,359, and as the fulcrum 7L5 for the lever 7L3 is varied, the throw of the rod 7i will be greater or less, and consequently the dog 49 will have a greater or less throw and move the frame a faster or slower.
There is a maximum speed for good work while the stitch-forming mechanism is acting to overstitch the edges of the button-hole but at all other times during the movement of the frame a, in order to increase the productiveness of the machine, it is desirable to move the said frame Ct, it carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, and also the button-hole-cutting mechanism, as rapidly as possible, in order that the button-hole-cntting mechanism may be put into position between the open jaws of the work-clamp to cut a slit in the work held by its jaws and to retire from such position to enable the stitch-forming mechanism to be again started as quickly as possible to stitch the button-hole slit.
In accordance with myinvention, as herein represented, one of the arms 29 of the rockshaft 30, common to the latter patent, is provided with a stand 69, upon which is pivoted at 70 a locking-bar 77, normally held up bya spring 72, so as to engage a toe 73, connected to the dog 49. As the frame ctand the (log 49 complete their movement toward the left, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, to put the cutting mechanism into cutting position with relation to the work-clamp, the toe 73 rides up over the inclined outer end of the locking-bar 77 until just about as the cloth-cutting devices come into correct working position, when the locking-bar 77 moves upwardly and engages the toe 73, thus locking the feed-dog and preventing its further movement, and consequently any further movement of the frame 0 until after the locking device is released.
Viewing the drawings, let it be assumed that a piece of material to be cut and stitched has just been laid between the upper and lower members of the work-clamp. If the cam-lever 33, common to the said patent, is now turned so that its cam part strikes one of the arms 29 of the rock-shaft 30', the other arm in its movement will depress the locking device and disengage the toe 73, thus permitting the dog 49 to be struck by the constantlyreciprocating rod 78 which immediately starts the machine and causes cam 57, com mon to Patent .No. 349,859, to immediately actuate the cutter. As shown in the drawings, the fulcrum h is nearest the pivot 7L2 of the lever as the feeding mechanism starts or is put in touch with the rodh and at this time the speed of the feeding movement is the faster, for the arm of the lever lbs to which the rod h is connected is the longer. The lever h has a finger h gprovided with aroll 71 which meets the incline 66 of the feed-regulating cam-block 7b as the frame a is being moved to the right, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, and just at the time that the rock-shaft 71 is turned to start ICC the stitch-forming mechanism in operation. This movement imparted to the lever h as the roll h goes up the incline 66 is such as to shorten the stroke of the rod h and decrease the speed of the feeding or-spacing movementof the frame a. lVhen the frame a is near the end of its stroke to the right, viewing Figs. 1 and 2, the stitch-forming mechanism, as provided for in said Patent No. 349,359, stitches about the eye of'the button-hole, and at this time it is desirable to yet further shorten the stroke of the rod 71 and the stitch, and to do this I have provided the block referred to with a second incline 67, (see Fig. 9,) against which the roll 77. strikes. As the roll h leaves the upper end of the incline 66 the usual cam-grooves in the cam or wheel referred to, which is moved by the dog 49, as provided for in said Patent No. 349,359, reverse the movement of the frame a, carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, to cause the second part or straightside of the button-hole to. be stitched, the throatplate traveling along under that side of the button-hole and between the jaws of the work-clamp. As soonlas the second part of the button-hole has been stitched the roller h travels down the incline 66 and a suitable spring 68,aoting upon the lever h, aids in moving the fulcrum 72, upwardly in the slot 72 to thus increase the stroke of the rod 72, to'quickly increase the speed of movement of the feeding mechanism and frame while the cutting mechanism carried by the said frame is being moved forward into correct position with relation to the work-clamp to receive between its members the work which is to be next clamped between the jaws thereof. The frame at having been moved far enough to place the cutting mechanism into position with relation to the work-clamp, the locking-bar 7 '7 again engages the toe 73 and stops the mechanism, it remaining stopped while the piece of material having a buttonhole properly stitched is taken out from the work-clamp and the material is again put into the work-clamp to be again out for anew button-hole to-be stitched.
I desire it to be understood that the locking device 77 might be applied to advantage to the machine shown in United States Patent No. 349,359, the said locking device engaging a suitable pin or projection at the lower end of the lever which actuates the dog 49, to thus hold locked the lower end of the said lever to keep its upper end out of the range of movement of the rod It. By turning down the screw 80, carried by the lever h, the said screw acting upon the finger h, the fulcrum 72, of the lever 77.3 will be moved toward the lower end of the said lever, and consequently the number of stitches put into the button-hole will be increased, and vice versa.
Having described my invention as applied to a machine wherein the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism and throat-plate are moved longitudinally with relation to a stationary work-clamp to travel along both sides of a button-hole slit, I will now describe one form of my invention wherein the workclamp may be moved longitudinally while the frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism and throat-plate remain stationary.
In Fig.1 the plate Ct is shown as united by suitable usual pivotscrews to the lower frame abut in the plan last proposed these pivot-pins a would enter suitable holes in the curb a and the curb may have lugs 81- ting mechanism and stitch-formin-g mechanism,.a work-clamp, feeding and spacing-mechanism, and actuating mechanism for the said feeding and spacing mechanism,and devices to automatically increase the effective speed of the feeding and spacing mechanism after the stitching of the button-hole and while the cutting mechanism is being put into and removed from position with relation to the work-clamp, or between the times of operat ing the stitch-forming mechanism for the pro duction of two button-holes insuc'cess'ion, substantially as described.
2. Abutton-hole-stitching machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: a frame provided with a throat-plate, cloth-cutting mechanism and stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, feeding and spacing mechanism, and actuating mechanism for the said feeding and spacing mechanism, and devices to automatically increase the effective speed of the feeding and spacing mechanism after the stitching of a button-hole and while the cutting mechanism is being put into and removed from position with relation to the work-clamp, or between the times of operating the stitch-forming mechanism for the production of two button-holes in succession, and devices to automatically start and stop the stitch-forming mechanism to stitch the material, the feeding and spacing mechanism at such time moving at a slower speed, substantially as described.
3. A button-hole-stitchin g machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: a feeding mechanism containing a feed-lever, an eccentric, a connecting-rod actuated there by to move the feed-lever, a cam and a dog, and means between the said lever and dog to actuate the latter, a movable fulcrum and fulcrum-carrier, and a cam-block to autom ati- IIO cally change the position of the said fulcrumcarrier to lengthen the effective stroke of the lever and consequently the speed of the machine in order that the speed of the feeding movement may be automatically increased at the desired time, substantially as described.
4. In a sewingmachine, the following instruinentalities, viz: a frame carrying the stitch-forming mechanism, and a cam-Wheel for effecting the feeding motion, a bed-plate, a Work-clamp, cutting mechanism to out the work held in the clamp, an actuating-dog for the feeding mechanism, a locking device for
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