US556501A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

6 Sheets-Sheetv 1.

(No Model.) L. GODD.

Y SEWING MACHINE. 110.5565111.y lPatented 1V1au.1'7,1896.

N @ma /Zf/K/ FQ ,Zoza'ls 640620Z www EMV/Mw?? 6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

L GODDU SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Mar. 1'7, 1896.

v No Model.) y5 Sheets-sheet@ L. GODDU, SEWING MACHINE.

No. 555,501. 125555555 M51. 1'7, 1895.

(No Model.) 5 sheets--Sneet 5.

L v SEWING MACHINE.

N5. 555,501. Patented 555.11.17, 1596.

ANDREW RGRANAM. PHOTO-UMD WASHINGTUILD C 6. t e e h S e e h S s.

E.. m UH G MA 0M G GN Tl- LW E S (No Model.) Y

No. 556,501. Patented Malz-1.7, 1896.

NITED STATES ATENT OFFICE.

LOUIS GODDU, OF VINOI'IESTER, ASSIGNOR TO JAMES IV. BROOKS, TRUSTEE,

' OF PETERSIIAM, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 556,501, datedMarch 17, 1896.

i Application filed .Tune 8,1894. Serial No. 513,863. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, LOUIS GODDU, of Winchester, county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel sewing-machine more especially adapted for sole-sewing and for doing` that particular class of work comprehended by attaching the upper to a portion of the sole or in attaching a welt and upper to a sole, my improved machine being adapted not only for turned but also for welted work.

One part of my invention consists in a sewing-machine containing a circularly-moving hook having a concavity at its face for the reception of a thread-case, and havinga beak to enter, expand, and cast a loopl of thread about said thread-case, and having a projecting finger partially surrounding said threadcase, and in the rotation of the hook, and while the stitch is being finished acting on the under or second thread between the thread delivery of the said thread-case and the work; also, in a sewing-machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: a work-rest, a presser-foot, and thread-case, combined with a circularly-movinghook having a beak to engage a thread and spread it about the thread-case, and having a projection to act upon the thread of the thread-case between the thread-case and the work to aid in setting the stitch and in taking off thread from the thread-case; also, in a sewing-machine, the following instrumentalities, viz: a work-rest, a thread-case, a cireularly-moving hook,an d a circularly-moving hooked needle, combined with a looping-dog adapted to engage the thread at a distance from the workrest, and, means to actuate said looping-dog to cause it to engage and hold the thread at a distance from the work and to positively hold onto said thread and carry it bodily with it to and present vthe thread held by it to the hook of the needle; also, in a sewing-machine, the combination with the stationary workrest, the presser-foot, its carrierprovided with a cam, and a cam-lever the position of which is varied by said presser-foot, combined with atake-up composed of a disk having a threadclamp, and devices co-operating with said clamp and actuated by said cam-lever to release the needle-thread sooner or later according to the thickness of the material, substantially as will be described.

Other features of my invention will be hereinafter set forth and claimed at the end of this specification. K

Figure 1 is a left-hand side elevation, partially broken out, of a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a front end eleval[ion thereof. Fig. 3 is a detail showing the presser-foot carrier detached. Fig. 3 is a detail showing the journal or fulcrum D5 for the presser-foot carrier. Fig. 4 is a section in about the line Fig. 1, looking to the left. Fig. 5 is a detail showing the cam am. Fig. 6 shows the lower part of the machine column or standard omitted from Fig. 1. Fig. 7 is a partial sectional detail in the line x3, Fig. 1. Fig. 8 is a section in the line x4, Fig. 7. Fig. Sa is a section in the line m5, Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is an enlarged rear side view of the threadcase. Fig. 10 is a detail, on an enlarged scale, showing part of the presser-foot and a cam device co-operating therewith which effects the release of the clampingjaw of theV takeup. Figs. 11 and 12 show different views, enlarged, of the take-up which is shown in position in Fig. 1; Fig. 12, an end view of clamp n. Figs. 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 show different positions of the stitch-forming devices to be described; Fig, 18, an end view of the work-rest and looping-dog within it. Figs. 19, 20, and 21 show different views of what I shall designate as the looping-dog. Fig. 21 shows part of the slack-thread-controlling hook in side elevation.

The head A of the machine, it being of suitable shape to support the working parts, is mounted upon a suitable column A', the head and column being connected by suitable bolts or otherwise.

The main shaft A2 of the machine has fast upon it a balance-wheel A3, preferably concaved at its face, with which co-operates a conical-faced loose pulley A4 supposed to be rotated constantly from some suitable source ICO of motion, the times of rotation and of rest of the said main shaft being controlled by or through a wedge A5 connected by link AG to a suitable treadle A7, all in usual manner com mon to many machines for making boots and shoes.

The head has suitable bearings for the reception of a shaft a, (see Fig. 1,) which I denominate the hook-shaft, it having connected to it at its front end a hook a', having a beak a2, the said hook being represented in this present instance of my invention as concaved at its face to receive a thread-case a3, which contains the under or second thread, the latter being preferably wound as a ball and placed in said thread-case, said threadcase in the present instance of my invention being shown substantially spherical and as divided centrally, thus making of it two hemispheres to receive the under-thread mass a, as shown best in Fig. 7, the thread being subjected to tension by being drawn through cer tain holes i0, (best represented in Fig. 9,where the thread-case is shown detached,) said holes being arranged about the delivery-hole 4l, the latter being shown as central with relation to the thread-ease.

The hook a has an attached finger a, which is so located with relation to the beak a2 that just after the loop of needle-thread has been cast about the thread-case, and the take-up, to be described, is acting to set the stitch, (see Fig. 13,) said finger will act on the under or second thread between the delivery-openA ing 41 and the work or material held between the work-rest and the presser-foot, to be described, and will pull on the under thread, and in so doing not only aid in setting the stitch, but also pull out from the thread-case some thread. The finger a also aids in keeping the thread-case in the hook, especially when the machine is at rest, as at that time the finger occupies substantially the position shown in Fig. 2 or 1l, said finger being somewhat curved or bent to thus partially surround the spherical thread-case. I have also combined with the said thread-case, to keep it in proper Working position with relation to the hook, a thread-case holder a7, (represented in working position in Fig. 2,) it being shown as an arm pivoted loosely on a stud-screw as screwed into a suitable rigid part of the framework, so that said holder may be turned aside or out of the way when it is desired to remove the thread -ease from the eoncavity of the hook.

The hook-shaft a derives its movement, which is one of oscillation, from a series of teeth a," at the lower end of alever am having its fulcrum on a rock-shaft am extended through a sleevedike bearing at the upper end of the head A to the front of the frame, said lever al@ having (see Fig. 1) attached to it a suitable roller or other stud which enters a groove cut in the rear side of the cam am. The cam ala has in its periphery another camgroove, which receives a roller or other stud 42 of aleverB, mounted upon a stud B' extended from the head A, the lower end of said lever being slotted, as at b, (see Fig. 1,) to receive a stud b carried by a slide-block fitted to slide longitudinally in a grooved way formed in the upper end of a lever B2, pivoted at B3, the lower end of said lever having a series of teeth b2 which engage teeth at the outside of a block or collar B'l provided at its interior with threads and made to engage loosely the threaded end of a hollow shaft or sleeve B5, the latter surrounding the shaft a and sliding thereon, as will be described, said sleeve earrying at its outer end the needle-segment 114, provided with a hooked needle b5, represented as of the curved variety, the sliding movement of the sleeve enabling the needle to act as a feeding device.

The sleeve B5 is oscillated at the proper times about the shaft a as a center by or through teeth b attached to the lower end of a lever B6 having its hub 137 fast on the rockshaft (1.12, said lever being provided with a roller or other stud Uf, which enters the camgroove D8 (see Fig. 2) in the cam BS fast on the main shaft.

The loose block or collar Btsu rrounding the sleeve B5 enables the sleeve carrying the needle-segment to be reciprocated in one direction by levers 1:3 B2-as, for instance, while the needle is in the material-so as to make of the needle a feeding device, and in the opposite direction while the needle is out of the material in order that said needle may be put back into proper position to again penetrate the material at the proper distance from the last stitch, and at the same time said sleeve may be oscillated by the lever BG, these two motions taking place at the same time without one affecting the proper operation of the other.

The presser-foot D eooperating with the work-rest E is represented as adjustably attached by a bolt D to a presser-foot carrier D2, (shown separately in Fig. 3,) the said carrier having an opening D3, which fits over a tubular extension D5 (see Fig. 3a) of or from the framework, said extension also constituting a bearing for and receiving through it the sleeve B5 and the shaft a, before described.

The presser-foot carrier has a slot cZ, through which is extended loosely a screw (Z2, which is screwed into a threaded hole in the end of the shaft d, provided at its rear end (see Fig. l) with a crank-arm d, provided with a studscrew d4, with which is engaged a part of a link d5 connected to a rod d jointed to the treadle (Z7, (see Fig. 6,) said rod being surrounded by a spring d8, which acts normally to elevate it and keep the shoulder d" of the iinger do fast on said shaft against a pin or projection (112 extended from the upper part of the pressenfoot carrier, a spring (Z13 acting at one end against said carrier serving to keep said pin dm against said shoulder (Z9, and consequently the presser-foot against the work being sewed.

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To lift the presser-foot, as when the work is to be taken out or put in place, the operator will put his foot upon the treadle C17, will turn the rock-shaft d, and cause the shoulder d?, acting on the pin CP2, to move the presser foot carrier in the direction of the arrow marked thereon in Figs. 2 and 3, and thus remove the presser-foot from the work.

Provision is herein made for automatically lifting the presser-foot according to variations in thickness of the work or stock, such'provision including, as herein represented, the following mechanism, viz: The hub of the cam B8, or it may be the shaft A2, is provided with a cam F, (see Fig. 4,) which acts on a roller or other stud f on a lever f', pivoted at f2, said lever having a spring-pressed pawlf, which rests upon a pawl-support f7, shown as a pin. The pawl-carrier j" is moved once by said cam F for every stitch, and when it is moved by said cam the pawl is made to engage one or the other of the series of teeth f8, cut into a part of the presser-foot carrier, and said pawl will lift the said presser-foot always from the work, whatever may be its thickness,

sufficiently to allow the feed of the material to take place, and then as the large part of the cam F retires from said pawl-carrier the latter, under control of a suitable spring fx, (shown by dotted lines, Fig. 4,) is moved in such direction as to draw the pawl back over the pin f7, thus releasing it quickly from the presser-foot carrier, letting the spring CPB act to put the presser-foot iirmly against the material, whatever may be its thickness, preparatory to the needle entering the same to make the next stitch.

The work-support E in this instance of my invention consists,essentially, of atube which is clamped iirmly in place between a removable plate eandaback plate, e,said back plate forming, preferably, a rigid part of the framework, the two plates being held together by suitable screws e2. The work-.rest has a slot e3, through which the thread to be taken by the needle is led from the take-up, to be described, on its way to the work, and said thread during the operation of making the stitch is moved somewhat' up and down in said slot.

The device which I have chosen to designate as the looping-deg"7 is represented by the letter g, (see Fig. 7 and Figs. 13 to 21,in clusive,) said device being somewhat eccentric to the bar carrying it, the shank of the dog in the form in which I have chosen to illustrate the same being cut away or recessed at its back, as at 2, and having at one side two horns 3 4 and at its other side a projection 5, said dog takinghold positively of said thread at the desired distance from the work and positively carrying that part of the thread to the hook of the needle without sliding along over said thread or scraping on it. The dog herein shown is adapted to slide and also to rotate, it getting its bight on the thread during its rotation as the thread t is wound about it, as represented in Fig. 20, the different positions of the said looping-dog during the operation of manipulating the thread preparatory to making the stitch being represented in Figs. 13, 14, and 15.

The shank of the looping-dog is screwed iirmly into a longitudinally-fluted bar or carrier e4, which is adapted to be slid longitudinally in a suitable bearing c5 between the plates c c, said bar being surrounded at its upper end with a series of grooves, as at c, to leave annular projections and spaces,which may be engaged by the teeth e7 of a pinion, shown in this instance as connected to or forming part of a hollow shaft e8, contained in a bearing e9 connected to or forming part of the bearing in which the said bar e4 is adapted to slide. In the operation of the machine this bar has to be oscillated first in one and then in the opposite direction for nearly a full revolution, and to do this I have provided the bar with a spiral gear h, the interior of which is provided with teeth or flutes (see Fig. S) to correspond with the flutes of the bar et, so that said bar is free to slide longitudinally through said spiral gear, the said gear being kept in position by or between suitable shoulders h, which take bearing against shoulders, as best seen in Fig. 7, of the casting or plate e. The gear h is engaged by a spiral pinion h2 in a bearing h3, forming part of the casting c referred to, said pinion being connected to or forming part of a shaft h4 (see Fig. 8) supported in said bearing. The shafts e8 and 71,4 are represented as hollow for sake of lightness, and they are provided with teeth,

vas at 20 21, the teeth 2O of the shaft es` being engaged by a sector cl2 of a lever cl3, having a roller or other stud to enter a cam-groove in the rear face of the cam B8, said cam and sector-lever acting through the shaft e8 to reciprocate the bar e4 and the loopingdog. The teeth 21 are engaged by a sector h6 carried by a lever 7J having its fulcrum coincident with the fulcrum of the lever cl3, said lever having a roller or other stud which enters a camgroove hs at the front side of the cam e114, said cam-groove being shown by full lines in Fig. 4, said sector-lever k7, through the rock-shaft h3, effecting the rotation of the bar e4, and consequently of the looping-dog, iirst in one and then in the opposite direction.

Pivoted upon a rigid part of the framework by a screw-stud m is a lever m Vhaving attached to it at one end a slack-thread controller m2, shown as provided with a hook near its end, said lever having mounted upon it a roll or stud 22, which is acted upon at each rotation of the cam BS by a peripheral projection 23 thereon, (see Fig. 2,) a suitable spring 24 normally acting to keep the said roll 22 up against said cam.

The loop of needle-thread pulled through the material and cast about the bobbin or under-thread holder is quite a long one, and the machine has to have a take-up to take care of the loop. The take-up consists essen- IOO IIO

tially of a disk n, (see Figs. 1, 11, and 12,) having its periphery preferably grooved or concaved so that the thread can better lie therein. This disk has its hub connected to a suitable shaft nx (shown by dotted lines, Fig. 4) and provided with a pinion n', which is engaged by the teeth n2 at the end of a lever n3 having its fulcrum on a stud n* connected with the framework of the machine, as shown best in Fig. 4, said lever having a roller or other stud a5 (shown chiefly by dotted lines in Fig. 4) which enters the peripheral groove n in the cam-hub en.

The take-up has pivoted upon it at ynl a lever ns, having a clamping-surface n, which extends across the same, the under side of said clamping-surface and the periphery of the disk directly under it being preferably corrugated, as represented by dotted lines in Fig. 12, a portion of the periphery of the disk being cut away where the said clamping projection extends across it. The free end of the lever ns is acted upon by a spring n10, connected to the disk, so that the clamping projection n is normally kept down upon the thread t, which in practice comes to the takeup from a suitable wax-pot or thread supply, (not shown,) it being extended around the hub 26 of the take-updisk, as represented in Fig. 1, and thence through or under a suitable thread-eye 27, thence through an eye 27X (see Fig. 12") and also through the eye 2S, (sec Fig. 11,) both in the clamping projection n, thence over the top of and down behind the projection n", and thence about the periphery of said take-up disk to and through the slot c3, refered to, and to the work. As the thread-eye 27 on the take-up moves past its back center in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 1, said eye draws on the thread bctween the clamp and the hub 2G and pulls thread from the wax-pot or other source of supply.

It will be understood from the foregoing description that the take-up disk is made to rotate first in one and then in the opposite direction, and when the clamp acts on the thread the take-up will take up the thread and draw back with it the loop discharged about the bobbin a3, the take-up at that time movingin the direction indicated by the arrow on it in Fig. 1.

The lever n is provided, as herein shown, with a dog o, adapted to turn about a pivot o', said dog being acted upon by a spring 02, so that one of its ears o3 is kept normally against a pin o? on the lever, the other ear standing in the path of movement of a cam o5, connected to or forming part of a lever o", having as its fulcrum the shaft nx of the takeup, (see Fig. 10,) the lever o6 being acted upon by a suitable spring o7, which keeps the free end of the lever in a curved slot 44, (see dotted lines, Figs. 3 and 4,) cut in the presserfoot carrier D2, so that said cam o5 is moved to occupy one or another position, according to the thickness of the stock under the presserfoot or between it and the work-rest.

The cam o5 occupies, it will be understood, different positions according to the thickness of the stock, so thatthe caro8 of the dog `o in the rotation of the take-up will strike the cam o5 sooner or later, and thus open thc clamp sooner or later to let the thread render through the hole 2S, as may be required by the necessities of the stock.

The take-up in this instance of my invention is shown as having connected to it near one edge a pin 35, one end of which is left free to let the thread be slipped readily under it. The thread from the take-up n on its way into and through the slot ci is passed over suitable sheaves or roller-tensions 31 `32.

In the drawings, Figs. 7, 13, and 14, the line of section is such as to cut away the active part of the work-rest or that part which bears against the work in the bottom of the channel in the sole s; but in Fig. 13 I have shown by dotted lines the part of the workrest which is omitted bythe section, to show how it bears upon the stock in the channel.

In Figs. 13 to 17 the sole is shown as slit and turned outwardly to leave a between substance, through which may pass the needle after it has passed through the upper u of the shoe. This sole and upper may be of any usual shape or material.

Referring to Fig. 13, the looping-dog is shown as way down, ready to start back and manipulate the thread t, which maybe designated as the needle-thread. it coming from the take-up before described.

Fig. 14 shows the loopingdog as having reached its farthest upward position and as having made nearly a full revolution to thus get a firm hold of the thread, this being effected by the wrap of the thread t about it, the wrap being as best shown in Fig. 20.

Fig. 14 shows the slack-thread controller m2 as having caught the thread, and to effect this the said thread-controller while the looping-dog was moving in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 13, was moved down below the slot e3, before described, and in its movement the beveled point of the controller struck the thread and slipped past it, and its motion was then quickly reversed, so that the said controller grabbed or caught the tlneadt and came back substantially into its normal position before the looping-dog was oscillated to wrap the thread about it, and the said controller then continued to hold the thread while the loopingdog was rotated to occupy the position represented in Fig. 14, said controller remaining substantially in the position shown in Fig. 14 during the formation of the stitch, as will be hereinafter described, the duty of said slack-thread controller being solely to prevent the needle-thread from kink ing or twisting between the stock and the end of the looping-dog about which it is wrapped while said looping dog with the thread IOO IIO

wrapped about it is descending from the position Fig. 14 to place the needle-thread thereon in position to be engaged by the hook of the needle as the latter is being retracted from the work. Just about as the loopingdog reaches its upward position (represented in Fig. 14) the thread i in the slot c3 met the upper end of said slot and was arrested thereby, so that the thread previously wrapped partially about the looping-dog was stopped, th us compelling the thread' to pass o'ver the hornI 4 and into the space between the two horns 3 4.

In wrapping the thread t about the loopingdog a portion of the thread is made to cross the space 2 of said dog. As the dog is moved from the position Fig. 13 into the position Fig. 14, where it has nearly completed arevolution, the needle-segment is moved to thrust the needle b5 through the upper and the between substance, and the hook-shaft is rotated to bring the point of the hook co2 from the position shown in Fig. 13 into the position Fig. 14, and as the looping-dog approaches the material of the shoe from the position Fig. 14 into the position Fig. 15 the hook is further rotated to carrjT the point a2 yet farther in its backward direction, and the said dog comes down to it and is further turned slightly to thus deposit the thread, crossing the groove 2 in its back, into the hook of the needle, so that the needle when it is retracted from the work catches said thread and pulls it off the looping-dog and through the between substance and upper. Soon after the hook of the needle engages and pulls on the thread to pull it off from the end of the looping-dog the latter is drawn up and is rotated back to its original position, or into the position substantially as shown in Fig. 13, where it remains during the completion of the stitch. As the needle drawing on the loop of thread taken from the looping-dog begins to pull the said thread through the between substance, the thread-loop caught on the hook of the slack-thread controller slips off, owing to the direction of the strain on the thread, and lets the hook of the needle pull the loop straight through the between substance and upper without twisting and into the position` Fig. 16, the point a2 of the hook ce having in the meantime arrived in its farthest backward position, so that the needle draws the loop of thread over-and about the said point, as in said Fig. 16. About as the needle b5 gets into the position Fig. 16 the sleeve B5 is moved outwardly or longitudinally to put the point of the needle in position to again penetrate the material at a distance from the last point of penetration equal to the length of stitch to be made, and in such movement the needle at the same time approaches the stock, and as one side of the loop held by the needle comes against the point a2 of the hook the needle becomes disengaged from the loop, leaving' it on the hook d2, so that as the said hook is moved in the direction of the arrow near it in Figs. 1G and 17, which is its forward or active movement, the said loop is spread and cast about the bobbin-case a3, the take-up commencing to operate about as the point of thehook arrives in the position Fig. 17, 'so as to pull up promptly and take care of the loop discharged about the bobbin-case containing the second thread. The take-up is actuated to pull on the needle-thread and set the stitch when the devices are substantially in the position Fig. 13.

As the looping-dog starts from the position Fig. 13, it is rotated slightly in the direction of the arrow 35, bringing the two points 4 and 3 close to one side of the thread, and when the loopin g-doghas been moved up far enough to pass the path of movement of the slackthread controller m2 the looping-dog begins to turn rather rapidly and the two prongs 4 and 3 catch the thread between them, and just about as the looping-dog arrives in its upward position, the slack-thread controller having helped itself to needle-thread, as stated, the looping-dog in its further rotation winds the thread about itself, as represented. The thread is left crossing the looping-dog at the upper side of the horn or point4 just before the looping-dog completes its full upstroke, and just as the thread meets the upper end of the slot c3 the contact of the thread t with the end of said slot causes the thread to be arrested while the looping-dog completes its upward movement, thus pushing the thread from the upper side of the point 4 over the said point and into the space between the points 4 and 3, as in Fig. 20. The thread having been wrapped about the looping-dog, as in Fig. 20, the latter is started on its downward movement, and the slack-thread controller in elvated position holds onto the thread engaged positively at the proper point .by the looping-dog and takes care of the slack in the thread between the point where the loopingdog grasps it firmly and the stock.

The slack-thread controller reaches its normal position (shown in Fig. 14) before the looping-dog in its descent reaches said controller, and the said dog continues to descend, carrying the bight of thread engaged positively by it down to the hook of the needle, where the said dog has given to it a slight further movement just sufficient to lay the thread crossing the slot 2 in its back onto the hook of the needle, the looping-dog thus completing substantially a full'revolut-ion.

It will be seen from the foregoing that the looping-dog slides along on the thread until it arrives at a proper distance from the work, when it commences to rotate to get a firm grip on the thread, winding the thread about it as it reaches its upstroke and holding the thread positively wrapped around it in the manner of a knot, while it carries said knot down to the hook of the needle.

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The projection o on the knot device is shaped like a hook, and its purpose is to retain the thread t a little after the hooked needle has pulled the bight of thread about the looping-dog off from the points 3 et of said dog. The said projection 5 also aids materially to prevent any possibility of the thread kinking as it leaves the said dog, and the projection 5 is also advantageous in that it supports the thread wrapped about the looping-dog as the latter descends, thus preventing any strains on the thread other than that eiected directly by the needle from dislodging the wrapped thread from the end of the said dog.

The projection 5, by holding one part of the loop at one side of the path of movement of the needle out of the work while the needle engages the loop to draw it into the work, prevents the possibility of one side of the loop crossing the other side of the loop to thus present a crossed or twisted loop to the point a2 of the hook a', for it the said loop is crossed when presented to said hook a2 the latter cannot pass properly through it and cast the loop about the bobbin a3.

Believing myseli:` to be the first to combine with a hooked needle and work-support a looping-dog which may slide along the needle-thread between the work and the tension device until the said dog has been moved away from said work-support for the proper distance, where it is made to positively engage the needle-thread and carry the part of the said thread engaged by said dog to the hook of the needle, instead of sliding along said thread, I do not intend to limit this invention to the exact form of looping-dog shown, as instead it will be obvious to one skilled in the art that the shape of said dog might be variously modified by only the skill of the mechanic and without the exercise of invention; and I consider as within the scope of my invention as expressed by the term looping-dog any device by which the needle thread may be positively engaged or grasped at a distance from the work-rest and while irmly engaging said thread take it positively to the hook of the needle Without sliding along or over said thread.

My looping-dog is not a thread-guide, and it entirely gives up its thread to the hook oi' the needle before the latter draws the thread through the work.

Any movement of the looping-dog while the thread is about it, as in Fig. 20, in its upward direction, acts to draw the thread more closely about the said dog, and while said dog is moving down from its position Fig. l-l into the position Fig. 15 the strain on the thread is always in the direction to keep the thread coiled snugly about the said dog; but as soon as the thread is put onto the hook of the needle and the needle commences to pull on the thread on the looping-dog the thread looped about the said dog readily disengages itself therefrom, leaving the thread in full control of the needle to be drawn through the work in loop form.

I claiml. In a sewing-machine, a circularly-moving hook having a concavity at its face, a thread-case placed therein, said hook having a beak extended outwardly beyond the pcriphery thereof to enter, expand and cast a loop of thread about said thread-case and having a projecting iin ger partially surrounding said thread-case which in the rotation of the hook and while the stitch is being finished acts on the under or second thread between the thread-delivery of the said thread-case and the work, substantially as and for the purposes described.

2. In a sewing-machine, a circularly-moving hook having a concavity at its face, a thread-case placed therein, said hook having a beak extended outwardly beyond the periphery thereof to enter, expand and cast a loop of thread about said thread-case and having a proj ecting iin ger partially surrounding said thread-case which in the rotation of the hook and while the stitch is being finished acts on the under or second thread between the thread-delivery of the said thread-case and the work, and a thread-case retainer to act against said thread-case, substantially as and for the purposes described.

3. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a presser-foot, and thread-case, combined with a circularly-movin g hook having a beak to engage a thread and spread it about the threadcase, and having api-ejection to act upon the thread of the thread-case between the threadcase and the work, to aid in setting the stitch and in taking off thread from the thread-case, substantially as described.

et. A work-rest, a thread-case, a circularlymoving hook, and a circularly-movin g hooked needle, combined with a looping-dog adapted to engage the thread at a distance from the work-rest, and means to actuate said loopingdog to cause it to engage and hold the thread at a distance from the work, and to positively hold onto said thread, carry it bodily with it to and present the thread held by it to the hook of the needle, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a hooked needle, and means to actuate the same, combined with a looping-dog, and means to operate it whereby the thread is engaged and held positively thereby at a distance from the work-rest sufiicient for the length of the next loop, and thereafter the looping-dog yet holding fast the said thread is moved toward the needle and made to put the said thread held by the said dog onto the hook of the needle, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a hooked needle, and a bar having a loopingdog provided with a groove 2, and with projections to catch the needle-thread, and devices to reciprocate and to rotate said bar to enable the needle-thread to be engaged and IOO IOS

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held by said dog at a distance from said worksupport, and then to carry positively to and put on the hook of the needle the part of the thread engaged by it, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a tension device for the needle-thread, and a hooked needle, combined with a looping-dog, and devices to move the same along the needlethread away from the work, and at the proper time to cause said dog to seize said thread at a proper distance from the work, and to then move with it toward the needle, said dog holding the needle-thread firmly at the point where it is grasped, and drawing the needlethread from the take-up, and to then move said dog to give up to the needle the thread held thereby, substantially as described.

S. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a tension device for the needle -thread, and a hooked needle, combined with a looping-dog, and devices to move the latter along the needle-thread away from the work, and at the proper time to cause said dog to seize the thread and to then move with it toward the needle, the said dog holdin g the needle-thread firmly at the point where it is grasped, and drawing the needle-thread from the take-up, and then to move said dog to give up to the needle the thread at the point where the dog grasps it, and a slack-thread support to sustain the needle-thread between the work and that point of said thread where the said dog holds it, to thus prevent the loop of thread being made by the dog from kinking or twisting, substantially as described.

9. The hook having a beak, the hook-shaft provided with a pinion, a toothed sector to oscillate said shaft; a sleeve surrounding said shaft, and a connected needle-sector and needle, combined with a rack to oscillate said sleeve and sector, substantially as described.

10. The hollow sleeve B5 provided at one end with a needle-sector and with a series of annular grooves or ribs, and a block having also a series of grooves or ribs to ft the grooves or ribs of the sleeve loosely, combined with a rack to slide the said sleeve longitudinally, and a second rack to engage said sector and oscillate said shaft, substantially as described.

11. The stationary work-rest, and the hookshaft provided with a hook, combined with a pivoted presser-foot having its center of motion coincident with said hook-shaft, substantially as described.

12. The stationary work-rest, a hook-shaft provided with a hook, and a presser-foot having its center of motion coincident with said hook-shaft, combined with devices to automatically lift said presser-foot from the work; a predetermined distance after each stitch, and with a needle and actuating devices to move the same while the presser-foot is lifted, substantially as described.

13. The combination with the stationary work-rest, the presser-foot, its carrier provided with a cam, and a cam-lever the position of which is varied by said presser-foot, combined with a take-up composed of a disk having a thread-clamp, and devices co-operating with said clamp and actuated by said cam-lever to release the needle-thread sooner or later according to the thickness of the material, substantially as described.

111. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a looping-dog to engage the thread at a distance from the work, a hooked needle to enter the work, means to move the looping-dog to present the portion of thread held by it to the hooked needle, and means to move the hooked needle, combined with a hook having a beak extending outwardly therefrom to engage a thread, a thread-case located in a cavity in said hook and about which the beak casts the loop taken from the needle, to operate, substantially as described.

15. In a sewing-machine, a work-rest, a looping-dog to engage the thread at a distance from the work, a hooked needle to enter the work, means to move the looping-dog to present the portion of thread held by it to the hooked needle, and means to move the hooked needle, combined with a hook having a beak extending outwardly therefrom to engage a thread, a thread-case located in a cavity in said hook and about which the beak casts the loop taken from the needle, said hook also having a finger located at the rear of the beak to act upon the loop of second thread coming from t-he thread-case when the stitch is being finished, substantially as described.

16. In a sewing-machine, the following instrumentalities, viz: a circularly moving hook, a thread-case, a hooked needle, a looping-dog, means to slide it longitudinally from and then toward the work for a variable distance to grasp the needle-thread at the proper distance from the work, and a slack-thread support and means to move it to engage the thread at a point between the work and the source of thread supply and before the said dog engages the thread to form in it a loop to be put onto the hook of the needle, substantially as described.

17. The combination with a hooked needle, of a loopin g-dog having an arm eccentric to its center of oscillation and provided with a groove 2 which is crossed by the thread wrapped about the dog, and means to oscillate said dog that it may deposit the thread crossing said groove onto the needle the point of which enters the groove, and means to move said looping-dog from and then toward the needle, substantially as described.

18. A work-rest, a looping-dog having horns 3, 4, and means to reciprocate and to oscillate said dog, combined with a stop against which the thread is drawn before the dog completes its movement away from the work acted upon by the work-rest to thus cause one part of the thread wrapped about the dog above the two horns to be passed over one and between the said horns, thus making one part of the wrap IOO IIO

of thread on the dog overlap another part of said thread, substantiallT as shown and described.

19. In a Wax-thread sewing machine, a hooked needle, and a pressenfoot; a threadguide and shaft having an attached looper, combined with means to impart to said loopershaft and looper a rotarT reciprocating movement, Whereb)7 the looper s made to Wind the thread engaged by it about itself preparatory to presenting said thread to thehook of the needle and devices to slide the said shaft and looper longitudinally, substantially as described.

20. In a sewng-1nachne, a thread-guide, and a hooked needle, combined with a looper having,` a rotary movement and adapted to Wind the thread about itself and to then deliver the thread upon the hook of the needle and devices to move the looper longitudinally, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my naine to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

LOUIS GODDU.

IVitnesses:

GEo. W. GREGORY, EMMA J. BENNETT.

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