US510364A

US510364A - Dress-chart

Info

Publication number: US510364A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1893-12-05
Anticipated expiration: 1910-12-05

Description

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

Hi POULIN.V

DRESS CHART.

vNo. 510,364. 'Patented Deo. 5, 189s.

THE NATloNAI. umosnAPHmn company.

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3 Sheets-#Sheet 2.

H. POULIN. v DRESS CHART.

No. 510,364. Patented Deo. 5, 1893.

(No Model.)

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H.. POULIN. DRESS CHART. Ne. 510,364. g. Patented Dee. 5, 1893.

The NATIONAL Lrmoemruna coMFANY.\

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HEDWIDGE POULIN, OF AUGUSTA, MAINE.

DRESS-CHART.

SPECIFICATION formingpartof Letters Patent No. 510,364, dated December 5, 1893.

Application iilecl June 17l 1893 Serial No. 477,988. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom, it may concern,.-

Be it known that I, HEDWIDGE PoULIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Augusta, in the county of Kennebec and State of Maine, have invented a new and useful Dress-Chart, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to dress charts, and has for its object to provide a chart for drafting seamless and dartless dress-Waists, coats, &c. and it consists in the construction and novel arrangement of aseries of rules composed of a suitable material, such as paste-board,which are perforated and provided with printed outlines, figures of reference to be followed in laying off the outlines of the garment, as will be fully described hereinafter in connection with the drawings, the novel features thereof being particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings: Figure 1 is a view of the front waist chart. Fig. 2 is a view of the back waist chart. lFig. 3 is a view of the sleeve chart. Fig. 4 is a view showing the back and front of a dress-Waist constructed by the use of my improved chart, and a plan of the pattern opened. Fig. 5 is a view of the back and front of a dress-Waist and the open pattern in which a side-opening is provided. Fig. 6 is a similar view of a dress-Waist in which the fastening is arranged diagonally across the front.

Similar numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures of the draw- 3 5 ings.

'lhe front waist chart, which is shown in Fig. 1, is provided with a straight front edge 1, a neck curve 2, a straight shoulder edge 3, an arms eye 4, a straight side edge 5, and a broken lower edge 6, having the straight angularlydisposed portions 7 and 8. EX- tending from apoint upon the neck curve adjacent to the upper end of the front edge is a line of perforations 9, provided with measurements ranging from 20 to 45, and disposed at an angle to the front edge 1, whereby it diverges therefrom toward its lower end. 10 represents a similarly-numbered line of perforations extending from a point adjacent to the intersection of the neck curve with the shoulder line and arranged substantially parallel with the front edge 1.

These

scales

9 and 10 are designed to be used in laying off the neck and shoulder measurements, as more fully described hereinafter.

The arms eye comprises the straight outwardly-divergent edges 4' and 4b, respectively, which are connected by a curved edge 4, and parallel with the upper edge 4"L is arranged a scale 11, and parallel with the lower edge 4b is arranged a scale 12. The scale 11 is adapted for use in laying olf the upper arms eye measurements, and the scale 12 for laying olf the under arms eye measurements. Parallel with the portion 7 of the lower edge of the chart are a series of spaced lines 13, which connect the terminal perforations of a series parallel inclined rules 14, with the terminal perforations of a series of rules 1 5, which are arranged parallel with the portion 8 of the lower edge of the chart. The lines in the scale 13 are numbered consecutively from 4 to 12, beginning with the upper line, the scale 15 is numbered from to 45, beginning with the vertical line of perforations adjacent to the terminals of the lines in the scale 13, and the scale 14 is numbered as to lines from 7 to 15, beginning at the top and is numbered upon the top line from 20 to 45, thus indicating the columns of perforations arranged in the successive lines.

Referring to Fig. 2, the back Waist chart is provided with a straight inner side edge 16, a neck edge 17, a straight shoulder edge 1S, an arms eye curve 19, and a curved side edge 20, which intersects the inclined straight lower edge 21, at an acute angle. This chart is provided at the top and extending from the neck edge parallel with the inner side edge 16 with a perforated scale 22, and adjacent thereto with an inclined perforated scale 23, which isjnumbered from 20 to 45, for indicating the neck measurements, these scales corresponding, respectively, with the

scales

9 and 10 of the front waist pattern. 24 represents a diagonally-disposed scale extending from the intersect-ion of the shoulderedge 18 with the arms eye curve 19 and corresponding in function with the scale 11 of the front Waist pattern, being provided, as is the scale 11, withtwo series of numerals indicating measurements ranging, respectively, from 3 to 23, and from 20 to 45. 25 rep- ICO resents a horizontal scale extending inwardly from the intersection of the arms eye curve with the outer side edge and numbered outwardly from 6 to 16. Arranged at the bottom of this chart is a scale 26, in combination with a scale 27, the perforations of the latter heilig numbered in vertical column from 4 to 12, and the perforations in the former being numbered in horizontal column from 20 to 40. The perforations of the scale 27 are aligned, respectively, with series or lines of perforations in the scale 26.

Referring to Fig. 3, which shows the sleeve chart, 28 represents the outer or upper convexly-curved edge, 29 the inner or lower concavely-curved edge, 30 the rounded upper or shoulder end, and 31 the lower concaved free edge which is connected to the upper or outer side edge by means of an offset 32, of triangular shape. The outer edge 28 is provided with a scale ranging from 1 to 12 and increasing from the ends toward the center, the initial or starting points of this scale being disposed, respectively, at the upper and lower ends of the chart.; and the inner side edge is provided with a corresponding scale ranging from 1 to 20 and increasing from the point of intersection of the curve 29 with the curve 30 toward the lower end of the chart. Arranged transversely at the lower end of the chart and increasing respectively from 6 to 1G7 toward the upper or outer edge 2S, are the scales 33 and 34, which overlap at their inner ends, the scale 33 having its initial point at or near the center of the width of the sleeve chart and terminating at the outer edge thereof, and the scale 34 having its initial point near theinner edge ot' the chart and terminating at an intermediate point slightly beyond the center of the same. At the upper end of the sleeve chart are arranged

scales

35 and 36, which range from 15 to 25, the former having its initial point about one-third of the distance from the inner to the outer edge and terminating at about two-thirds of the distance; and the s'cale 36 having its initial point at about two-thirds the distance from the inner to the outer edge and terminating at the outer edge. As in the scales 33 and 34, these increase in the same direction and overlap slightly at their adjoining ends. As indicated upon the several scales, the scale 33 is designed for laying o the upper measurements or the measurements upon the upper side of the arm; and the scale 34 forlaying olii the under measurements; the scale 35 is designed for laying oit the under lneasurements of the upper portion of the arm, and the scale 36 the upper measurements for said portion.

This being the construction of my improved chart, the operation of laying olf a dress-waist is, briefly, as follows: rlhe measurements for the various parts of the Waist are taken positively by means of a tape or other suitable device; the neck measurements being laid off upon the

scales

9 and 10 for the front, and

22 and 23 for the back; the shoulder measurements upon the

scales

10 and 11 for the front, and 23 and 24 for the back; the bust measure upon the scale 12; the belt measure upon the scale 15; the under-arm-to-belt measurement upon the scale 13; the measurements for the divisions of the belt upon the scale 26 of the back waist chart; the under-arm-to-belt measurement upon the scale 27; and the neck-to-belt measurement upon the scale 14. For the sleeve the front length measurements are laid off upon the

scales

28 and 29; the upper-part-hand measurement upon the scale 33; the under-part-hand measurement upon the scale 34; the upperpart-arms-eye measurement upon the scale 36; and the under-part-arins-eye measurement upon the scale 35. Assuming a bust measurement of 30 and a neck-to-belt measurement of 10, take the point ot' scale 9 which is marked 30, and the line of the scale 14 which is marked 10, the intersection of the line 10 with a vertical line, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 1, dropped from the incasurement 30, will indicate the point of intersection of the belt-line with the front edge of the waist. Following this same line 10 in the vscale 14, it will be seen that it intersects, successively, with the

measurements

20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45 of the scale 9, which measurements from 2O to 45 are duplicated for the purpose of adding to the simplicity of the chart upon the top line 7 of the scale 14; and also it will be noted that the numbers indicating measurements in the scale 15 correspond with those in the scale 14.

Figs. 4 to 6 illustrate a few of the styles of dress waists which can be constructed by means of my improved chart; that in Fig. 4 being made to open vertically in front, that in Fig. 5 to open at the side or under the arm, and that in Fig. 6 to open upon a diagonal line extending from the shoulder to the opposite side under the arm. It will be understood that various other forms and styles of waists may be cut, but the above will be suiicient to illustrate my invention. In each of said Figs. 4, 5, and 6, 1 have shown the pattern open or spread to show the shape thereof and indicate that the entire waist is cnt froma single piece of material.

1t will be obvious that this system of cutting will result in a saving, not only of time in cutting and in stitching, but of material.

Various other advantages of my improved chart will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and need no further description herein.

Having described the invention, what I claim isl. A chart for laying olf seamless dresswaists, having a front-waist portion provided with an under-arm scale 12, which is graduated to indicate bust measurements,an overarms-eye scale 1l, a substantially vertical shoulder scale 10, and a diagonally-disposed neck scale 9, said neck, shoulder and overarms-eye scales being graduated to agree IIO with the measurements indicated by the scale 12, and also having a scale l5 consisting of lines of perforations arranged parallel with the bottoni line of the form, said lines being numbered consecutively to indicate armseye-to-bclt measurements, andthe perforations in each line being numbered to indicate Waist measurements, and a back-waist chart provided with neck, shoulder and overarms-eye scales 22, 23, and 24, which agree respectively as to graduation with the corresponding scales of the front-Waist portion, an under-arms-eyeorbetween-the-shoulderscale 25, which is graduated to agree with the scale 12 of the front-waist portion, and a scale 26 having substantially horizontal lines of perforations numbered' consecutively-to indicate arms-eye-to-belt measurements and having a horizontal series of numerals to indicate the 'waist measurements, substantially as speci-l ed.

2. A front-waist chart provided with underarm, over-arm and shoulder scales, a neck scale 9 which is inclined inwardly from the front edge of the chart, a scale 13 consisting Y of lines parallel with the lower edge of the vchart-and numbered consecutively to indil lines of the scale 14 are respectively beneath the corresponding graduations of the scale 9, and a scale l5 consisting of parallel lines of perforations arranged parallel with the lower edge of the chart with the perforations in the lines numbered to agree with the graduations of the under-arms-eye scale, substan- Y tially as specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixed my signature in the presence of two witnesses.

' HEDWIDGE POULIN.

Witnesses:

FRANCoIs X. POULIN, A. M. HUNTINGTON.`