US459722A - heckel - Google Patents

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US459722A
US459722A US459722DA US459722A US 459722 A US459722 A US 459722A US 459722D A US459722D A US 459722DA US 459722 A US459722 A US 459722A
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insole
shoe
flexible
welt
edges
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/04—Welted footwear
    • A43B9/06—Welted footwear stitched or nailed through

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  • My present invention has for its objects to provide an improved shoe whereby a more flexible and better article will be produced, particularly adapted for ladies wear, and whereby also the cost of the shoe will be materially decreased and the necessity of employing special machines for sewing the upper and insole together will be dispensed with.
  • Figure 1 is a cross-sectional view of a shoe constructed in accordance with my invention before the application of the outer sole, showing the position of the parts on one side before sewing;
  • Fig. 2 a longitudinal sectional view of the same;
  • Fig. 3 a view of the completed shoe, and
  • Fig. 4 a view of the insole employed.
  • an inner sole such as shown in Fig. 4, consisting of a piece 1, shaped to the form of shoe desired, and composed, preferably, of leather or similar material, and to this is secured an outer piece 2 of canvas, drilling, or, if desired, thin flexible leather, the prime requisite being that the edges of this piece shall be as pliable, or nearly so, as the materials mentioned.
  • the parts of the insole are secured together, preferably, by a line of stitches 3 near the edge of portion 1, and the edges of the part 2 extend considerably beyond part 1, as shown, particularly at the fore partthat is, back to the counter or instep, though, as will be understood, it may extend back of this in some kinds of shoes.
  • the operator now lays this insole, with the part 1, inside upon the last, andthen draws the edges of the upper 4 and lining-5 over, turning back the free edge of the portion2 of the insole, and then, laying a welt 6 on the outer sidev of the upper, as in Fig. 1, sews through the welt, upper, and edge of part 2 of the insole, this sewing extending from one end to the other of the welt.
  • the counter 7 may, before the lasting and sewing, be inserted between the upper and lining, as usual, and the edge of the upper tacked to the insole and counter, as usual.
  • the edges. of the upper and the turned edge of the part 2 of the insole are now trimmed off, and the outer sole 8 is sewed to the welt in the usual or any preferred manner, as shown in Fig.
  • the counter 7 may, before the lasting and sewing, be inserted between the upper and lining, as usual, and the edge of the upper tacked to the insole and counter, as usual.
  • shoe thus formed is much more flexible than one in which the upper is sewed to the under side of a channeled insole, as an insole capable of being channeled must be quite thick to cause the stitches to hold, and also this manner of making a sewed shoe does not require achanneled insole, nor does it requirethe use of a curved-needle machine in sewing.
  • I claim as my invention As an article of manufacture, a shoe hav- IFO ing an insole composed of two parts 1 and 2, edges of the flexible portion, the upper and the former located inside the shoe being relathe Welt, and an outer sole secured to the welt, iivel y smaller, stiffer, and connect-ed to the substantially as described.
  • part 2 near the edges, and the latter being i JOHN HEOKEL.
  • insole being connected to witnesseses: the welt and upper by a line of stitches ex- FRED F. CHURCH, tending only through the outwardly-turned JAMES Gr. BROOKS.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Mel) J. HEOKEL.
v SHOE.
110.459,?22. Patented Sept. 15, 1891.
SMAJs Wax,
A fl 4 5% A Ya: mum: PETERS 1:04, muYo-umm, WASHINGTON. a. c.
UNITED STATES PATENT EEicE.
JOHN HEOKEL, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO IVILLIAM A. BROOKS AND JAMES G. BROOKS, OF SAME PLACE.
SHOE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 459,722, dated September 15, 1891.
Application filed January 15 1891. Serial No. 37 7,865. (No model.)
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known thatI, JOHN HECKEL, of Rochester, in the county of Monroeand State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.
My present invention has for its objects to provide an improved shoe whereby a more flexible and better article will be produced, particularly adapted for ladies wear, and whereby also the cost of the shoe will be materially decreased and the necessity of employing special machines for sewing the upper and insole together will be dispensed with.
To these and other ends the invention consists in certain improved constructions and combinations of parts, all as will be hereinafter fully described, and the novel features pointed out in theclaim at the end of this specification.
In the drawings, Figure 1 is a cross-sectional view of a shoe constructed in accordance with my invention before the application of the outer sole, showing the position of the parts on one side before sewing; Fig. 2, a longitudinal sectional view of the same; Fig. 3, a view of the completed shoe, and Fig. 4 a view of the insole employed.
Similar mumerals of reference indicate similar parts.
In carrying out my invention I first prepare an inner sole, such as shown in Fig. 4, consisting of a piece 1, shaped to the form of shoe desired, and composed, preferably, of leather or similar material, and to this is secured an outer piece 2 of canvas, drilling, or, if desired, thin flexible leather, the prime requisite being that the edges of this piece shall be as pliable, or nearly so, as the materials mentioned. The parts of the insole are secured together, preferably, by a line of stitches 3 near the edge of portion 1, and the edges of the part 2 extend considerably beyond part 1, as shown, particularly at the fore partthat is, back to the counter or instep, though, as will be understood, it may extend back of this in some kinds of shoes. The operator now lays this insole, with the part 1, inside upon the last, andthen draws the edges of the upper 4 and lining-5 over, turning back the free edge of the portion2 of the insole, and then, laying a welt 6 on the outer sidev of the upper, as in Fig. 1, sews through the welt, upper, and edge of part 2 of the insole, this sewing extending from one end to the other of the welt. The counter 7 may, before the lasting and sewing, be inserted between the upper and lining, as usual, and the edge of the upper tacked to the insole and counter, as usual. The edges. of the upper and the turned edge of the part 2 of the insole are now trimmed off, and the outer sole 8 is sewed to the welt in the usual or any preferred manner, as shown in Fig. The
shoe thus formed is much more flexible than one in which the upper is sewed to the under side of a channeled insole, as an insole capable of being channeled must be quite thick to cause the stitches to hold, and also this manner of making a sewed shoe does not require achanneled insole, nor does it requirethe use of a curved-needle machine in sewing. By locating the relatively stiffer portion 1 of the insole, the edge of which extends out beyond the line of stitches uniting it to the flexible outer portion inside the shoe, the edge of the upper will be held out and the shoe will preserve its shape better than it the insole were reversed and the portion 2 placed next the last when lasting; but this latter construction might be employed without departing from the broad idea of my invention, as it would form a shoe with an insole having flexible edges and a relatively stiffer central part. However, I prefer the construction shown for obvious reasons. As the stiff part of the insole is not sewed directly to the upper and welt, the shoe will be very flexible, and as I have found in practice desirable for ladies wear.
I do not claim, broadly, a shoe having an insole composed of relatively rigid and flexible portions, nor a shoe having such an insole with the edges of the flexible part secured to the sole by sewing.
I claim as my invention As an article of manufacture, a shoe hav- IFO ing an insole composed of two parts 1 and 2, edges of the flexible portion, the upper and the former located inside the shoe being relathe Welt, and an outer sole secured to the welt, iivel y smaller, stiffer, and connect-ed to the substantially as described.
part 2 near the edges, and the latter being i JOHN HEOKEL.
more flexible, said insole being connected to Witnesses: the welt and upper by a line of stitches ex- FRED F. CHURCH, tending only through the outwardly-turned JAMES Gr. BROOKS.
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