US600771A - Shoe and welt therefor - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

W. J. DREY.

SHOE AND WELT THEREFGR. No.. 600,771. Patented Mar."15,1898.

WILFRED `'JOI-IN DREY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHQE AND WELT THEREIFOR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 600,771, dated March 15, 1898. Application led 'Tune 11, 1897. Serial No. 640,279. (No model.)

. ing had to the accompanying drawings.

The present invention relates to boots and shoes, and more particularly to that class of boots and shoes known as welted boots and shoes; and it has for its object the production of an improved welt which shall be capable of being secured to the upper and insole without turning up its stitch-receiving edge and which can be stitched to the upper and insole of a boot or shoe in 4such manner that the edge of the upper will be forced closely within the angle formed by the lip and feather of the insole, resulting in a tight and close union between the upper, welt, and insole, and in which the stitches of the inseam shall be so positioned that great flexibility in the finished shoe will result.

Prior to the present invention it has been customary in the manufacture of welted boots and shoes to turn up the stitch-receiving portion of the welt adjacent the upper and lip of the insole to receive the stitches of the inseam, and in many instances, in order to facilitate this turning up of the edge of the welt, it has been the practice to provide the under face of the welt, near its inner or stitch-receiving edge, with a groove, and to bevel off or skive the inner edge thereof, an example of such construction being disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States issued to S. W. Wardwell, Jr., July 5, 1887, No. 365,888. It has `been found in practice that this turning up of the stitch-receiving portion of the welt is objectionable in that the rounded shoulder produced by the bending of the inner edge of the welt prevents a close fitting of the welt and bent edge of the upper within the angle formed by the lip and feather, and consequently the inseam will not be as tight as desired. Furthermore, by turning up the inner edge of the welt and stitching through the same a comparatively rigid and stiff rib or iiange is produced, which tends to greatly stiifen the shoe, thereby rendering it inflexible and unyielding. In the present invention the welt is so constructed that it can be attached to the insole and upper withoutbending its stitch-receivin g edge, and when the insole, upper, and welt are united the edge of the welt will cause the bent edge of the upper to substantially conform to the angle between the lip and feather, thus producing a tight inseam and a shoe of great flexibility.

The present invention therefore consists of the improved boot or shoe and a welt therefor, which will be hereinafter described and claimed.

The present invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l shows a section of my improved shoe, illustrating the manner of securing the welt to the upper and insole. Fig. 2 is a section of my improved shoe before the outsole is attached, and Fig. 3 is a perspective view of my improved-welt.

Similar letters of reference refer to corresponding parts throughout the specification and drawings.

In the drawings, A represents the welt, A the insole, and E the upper.

The insole A may be of the ordinary lipped construction, or, as shown in the drawings, it may be provided with a lip 0,3, feather a4, and be channeled at c', providing the channel-flap a5. The insole isprepared for receiving the stitches which unite the same and the upper andwelt by turning up the vlip a3 and the channel-Hap c5, as shown in Fig. l.

A represents :my improved welt, which is preferably made with its inner edge d6 substantially at a right angle with the upper and lower faces thereof, and along its under face near the edge c6 said welt is provided with a channel a, forming a channel-flap 0.2 for the purpose of receiving the stitches which unite the welt, upper, and insole.

In securing the parts together the edge of the upper is laid in the angle between the lip as and the feather a4, and the welt A, without turning up itsinner edge c", is placed upon the upper with itsedge a6 fitting squarely within the angle `formed by the bent edge of the upper E, thus forcing said upper into the angle of the lip and feather. The channelflap a2 is raised by a suitable welt-guide B, having a plow b, as the shoe is fed along by the sewing-machine used in uniting the welt, upper, and insole, whereby the needle can en- IOO ter the base of the channel d and pass through the lip asand emerge from the channel d of the insole A'.

By the present construction the stitches of the inseam pass through the under face of the welt A and emerge from the edge d6 thereof in substantially a horizontal plane and in a plane parallel with the upper and lower faces of the welt or upon a line corresponding to the medial transverse line of the between substance of the Welt, whereby the welt will lie iiat against the upper when secured in place and can be secured to the insole and upper without the necessity of turning up its stitchreeeiving edge. y It is to be noted that the edge d6 of the welt fits squarely against that portion of the edge of the upper which iits in the angle formed by the lip and feather, thus causing the upper to squarely take into such angle, insuring a tight inseam, and that there is no upturned edge of the welt tending to stiffen the shoe, as in welted shoes of the prior art.

I do not herein claim the Welt-guide B, as

such welt-guide forms the subject-matter of an application filed by me of even date herewith, Serial No. 640,280.

Having fully described my invention, l claim as new and desire to protect by- Letters Patent of the United Statesl. A welted boot or shoe comprising an upper, insole, and welt, the welt laid flat against the upper, with the stitch-receiving portion thereof in'substantially the same plane as the body of the Welt, said welt having a channel upon its under side near its stitch-receiving edge, the whole secured together by a line of stitches passing through said channel, substantially as described.

42. The improved welt for boots and shoes provided with a channel upon its under side near its inner edge, said channel being formed by a cut or slit extending toward the inner edge of the welt, substantially as described.

WILFRED JOI-IN DREY.

Witnesses:

HERMAN MEYER, NATHAN STEELE.

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