US441684A - moriarty - Google Patents

Description

(N0 MOdel.) 2 SheetsSheet 1.

J. H. MORIARTY.

ADJUSTABLE SLEEVE PATTERN.

No. 441,684. Patented Dec. 2, 1890.

Z /1 fizyww I 40w (N0 Mbdel. 2 SheetsSheetf2. J; H. MORIARTY. ADJUSTABLE SLEEVE PATTERN.

Patented Dec. 2, 1890.-

JOHN H. MOBIARTY, OF \VASIIINGTON, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

ADJUSTABLE SLEEVE-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming partof Letters Patent No. 441,684, dated December 2, 1890.

Application filed July 3, 1890. Serial-No. 357,691. (No model.)

, To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JOHN H. MORIARTY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Washington, in the District of Columbia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Sleeve-Patterns; and Idohereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to an improvement in adjustable pattern for garment-sleeves; and it consists in the construction and arrangement of parts hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims.

The object of my invention is to provide a pattern to be used by tailors in making custom-made, in contradistinction to readymade, goods. In the latter case the length and breadth are adjusted simultaneously, while in the former case it is often desirable to make a garment in proportion longer than the width or shorter than the usual proportion of the width, and at the same time construct and arrange the parts so that it will be unnecessary to move all of the parts separately, which involves a loss of time and greatly increases the liability of error in marking out the. goods.

A further object of my invention is to provide a simple, cheap, and accurately-adjustable pattern for apparel. I obtain these objects by the construction illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein like letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the views, and in which-- Figure 1 represents an improved pattern for sleeves with the parts drawn in. Fig. 2 is a similar view with the parts distended, and Fig. 3 represents in detail the several parts detached.-

In the drawings A represents the bodypiece, having a curved upper and outer edge to conform to the curvature of the sleeve, and is formed with openings a, a, a and a in its upper and side edges, for purposes hereinafter stated. In this piece are formed a series of loops a formed by making two parallel cuts in the material, which is preferably paper-board, and then bending the intervening part up or down, as the case may require.

B represents the front edge piece formed with curved markingopcnings b 1), near its top, and side marking-openings 6 near its edge. B are guide-strips formed of the material of the edge piece by cutting the same in parallel lines nearly across the piece. These guide-pieces B are inserted through the loops in the inner edge of the body-piece, in which they are permitted to slide, but at all times retain the two pieces together.

O and C are the lower or wrist extension of the pattern, the former being curved on its inner edge and formed with long guidestrips 0 along its edges which engage and pass through suitable loops in the edge piece B and the piece O,which permits its lateral and longitudinal movement. The piece 0 is formed at its upper end with a scale 0 extending through a loop in the body-piece. Its rear edge is curved to conform with the curvature of the body-piece when it is extended. Along the outer edge of this piece 0 is a guide-strip c interlocking the piece with the body-piece by passing through a loop on the body-piece.

Secured on the rear of the body-piece is a swinging edge piece D for the under pattern of the sleeve. This piece D is constructed with a curved upper end and an extension corresponding to the curvature of the armpit and has a curved rear edge corresponding to the upper edge of the under part, of the sleeve. It is pivoted to the body-piece at cl below the opening a The upper and side edges of the piece D are visible through the openings a, a, a and a in the body-piece and the openings in piece B, so that the contour of the edge may be followed with a piece of chalk to delineate the pattern of the under piece of the sleeve.

It will be noted that in forming the upper edge of the body-piece and edge piece B the curve forms a perfect marking-line for the shoulder or top of the sleeve while the pat tern is in its reduced form. When, however, the parts are extendedfor larger sleeves, the

perfect curve is broken, destroying the marking edge. To overcome this and atthe same time provide means for moving the piece '1) proportionately to the movement of the edgepiece, I form a curved extension or arm E, having an outwardly or upwardly curved upper edge tapering slightly at its forward end and an inward-curved under side. From the IOC rear of this arm is extended slightly downward a projection e, through which a pivot 0 passes and pivotally secures it to the upper edge of the body-piece Below this extension, slightly in advance of the same, is a tongue 6 extending down and form ed with a T-head, which is passed through and interlock ed with the upper end of the edge piece D. The arm E has a curved guide-arm a near its center, extending nearly its length, which passes through a loop in the edge piece B.

F is a sliding scale passing through loops 3n the body-piece parallel with the scale 0'. lhe numbers on this scale correspond with the numbers 011 the other scale only in a reverse order, so that should the measurement wish to be taken from the middle of the back the scale F would be moved so that the proper number found to be the distance from the back to the arm will be opposite the indicating marked on the pattern, and by drawing the sleeve down to an amount the addition to which will be the required length of sleeve an exact measure is acquired.

G represents scales on the edge piece for width adjustment, and II is a scale on the piece 0 for the cult.

In using the pattern, the measurements having been taken, the edge piece B is drawn out the proper amount and the wrist-pieces drawn down, both requiring independent manipulations. As the edge piece is drawn out the curved arm E is forced up, by virtue of the curved guide movingin the loops in the edge piece. As the arm E moves up on its pivot it necessarily forces the T-projection forward, which carries the edge piece D forward proportionate to the movement of the piece B, thereby retaining a perfectly even or smooth marking edge for the entire outer pat: tenn and proportionate pattern for the under piece of the sleeve. It will also be noticed that the desired length of sleeve may be acquired without affecting the width, and at any given length may be moved to any desired width, at the same time retaining unbroken regular marking edges. The construction also admits of either side being used upward, owing to the manner of interlocking, and from the fact that all racks, wheels, and other moving devices of considerable thicknesses are not employed.

I am aware that many minor changes in the construction and arrangement of the parts i can be substituted for those herein shown and described without in the least departing from the nature and principle of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In an adjustable sleeve-pattern, a bodypiece and an edge piece, a curved arm pivoted to the body-piece and slidingly engaged with the edge piece, its outer edge normally arranged below the edges of said pieces and projected beyond the same to form a continuation of the marking edge when the parts are drawn out, substantially as described.

2. In an adjustable sleeve-pattern, the combination, with the body and an edgepiece, of a curved arm pivoted to the body-piece and slidingly engaged with and moved by the edge piece, and an edge piece for a separate pattern engaging with and moved by the arm, substantially as described.

3. In a sleeve-pattern, the combination of the body-piece and an edge piece B and end extensions forming a pattern for one part of a sleeve, a movable edge piece D, forming, in conjunction with other pieces, a pattern for another portion of the sleeve, and a curved arm connected to the body and piece 15 and engaging and moving the edge piece D, substantially as described.

4.. In an adjustable sleeve-pattern, the combination of the body-pieee and edge piece B, the end extensions C and C, the latter having the scaleextension 0, and the sliding scale on the body-piece parallel with the other scale, its indicating figures being arranged in a reverse order to the figures on said other scale, substantially as described.

5. In an adjustable sleeve-pattern, the combination, with the body-piece having marking-openings therein, of the edge piece 13, having curved marking-openings, the movable edge piece D, located below the body-piece and having marking edges extending beneath said openings, and a curved arm connected with the body and edge piece 13, engaging and moving the edge piece D, substantially as described.

In testimony whercof I ai'lix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

\Vitncsses:

DANIEL II. Monmn'rv, L. S. .llAcoN.

Images