US42986A

US42986A - Improvement in looms for weaving corsets and articles of irregular form

Info

Publication number: US42986A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1864-05-31
Anticipated expiration: 1881-05-31

Description

' ulairi ty.

r ,UNITED STATES.

PATENT'A OFFICE.

WILLIAM P. BROWN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN LOOMSFOR WEAVING CQRSETS AND ARTICLES Ol` IRREGULAR FORM.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent. No. 42,986, dated May 31, 1864.

To a'Zwhom it may concern.-

Beit known thatl, WILLIAM P. BROWN, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Power Looms for Weaving Corsets or other Articles or Goods of IrregularForm and I do hereby declare that the followin gis a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming-part of this specification, in

Figure 1 is a horizontal section of a loom with my improvements. Fig. 2 is a vertical sectionof the same parallel with the front of the loom. Fig. 3 is a central vertical section of the same parallel with the warp. Fig. 4 is a vertical section taken parallel with the warp near the right-hand side of the loom. Fig. 5 is a side view ofthe take-up 7 mechanism on a larger scale than Figs. l, 2, 3, and et.` Fig. 6 is a plan ofthe shuttle, partly in section, on a much larger scale than the other figures. Fig. 7 isa transverse section of the shuttle on a scale corresponding with Fig. 6.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

The object of this invention is the weaving by power in a continuous or uninterrupted manner, ot' corsets or other articles or goods havingmore fullness in some parts than in others. In order to do this the warpis so operated by a Jacquard machine or other suitaable means thatin places where fullness is required the weft or filling is deposited bythe shuttle through but a portion of the warp, which portion is increased or diminished as the successive picks of llingare inserted according to the form of fullness desired, as,'

owing to the unequal length ofthe web in difrerent' parts of the width of a web so woven, it is verydiflicult to take it up with perfect reg- I do not attempt to take it up regularly while the weaving proceeds in but a portion of the warp, but only from time to time, when one or more picks are deposited all across the warp. To permit the weaving to` proceed' .'n this manner in a suitable length of warp without taking up, l cause the lay to gradually recede farther and farther back in the loom as' the filling is deposited by the shuttle, so that in beating up the reed may always strike with nnvarying force, and when the weaving arrives at a convenient stage for taking up I causethe lay to advance at oncc to its original or most forward position at' the same time that the cloth istaken up. This re-v ceding and advancing movement of the lay constitute important features of'my invention.

Another part of my invention consists in the employment between the reed and the take-up apparatus of a pair of jaws, between which the cloth passes, and which grip it responds with the irregularity ot' form of thev corsets or other articles or fabric to be woven, so that all parts of the width ot the cloth or web may be taken up smoothly and without leaving any objectionable slackness in any part.

Another part of my invention relates to the shuttle-drivingmechanism. Theshuttlewhich I employ is not of the dying kind, such asis commonly used in broad weaving, but i's'iitted to the lay in a substantially similar manner to the shuttles used in weaving tape and other narrow goods, and operated by means ot' toothed racks and pinions. The shuttle thus applied having to reach right across the reed from one to another of two driving-pinions, requires to be of great length, and consequently requires to have a great length of movement. This part of my invention consists in a novel mode of giving' motion to the driving-rack, whereby I am enabled'to get as long a movement as is desirable without making the loom of great height. f

Another part ot'my invention consists in a novel arrangement of sprin gs and ya-rnguides within the shuttle for the purpose of drawing back the yarn into the shuttle when the weaving proceeds in but a portion of the whole wid th of the warp, and so preventing any slack filling being left in the warp.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and usemy invention, I will proceed to describe its construction and opera-tion.f

A is the framing of the loom. B is the breast-beam. C is the lay, having its swords C' G' suspended from fixed centers a a at the top of the framing. a is the reed. b b is the warp shown in red color. This, instead of being supplied from a beam,is supplied from a number of spools, c c, Fig. 3, at the back of the loom, and passes up over rails d d or roll ers in the form of loops with weights E E suspended from them, as shown in Fig. 3. These weights preserve a uniform tension and allow the warp to be drawn forward in sufficient quantity when the taking up of web, as hereinbefore described, takes place. e e indicate the harness, and F the lower knot-board of the J acquard machine. The remainder of the Jacquard machine is omitted, as its' representation 4is not necessary for the illustration of my invention. Gis the crankshaft by which the lay is driven. Gf Gl are its cranks, and G4 G4 are the connecting-rods connecting the said cranks with the lay. rlhis shaft, instead of working in stationary journal-boxes, as in other looms, has its journal-boxes G2 G2 fitted to slide back and forth on suitable ways on the side frames o f the loom for the purpose of producing the receding and advancing movements of the lay for the purpose hereinbefore explained. The shaft G is geared by a pair of spur-gears, G3 H3, with a shaft, H, arranged below and parallel with G in fixed bearings, and the gear H3' also gears with a spurgear, 13, on the main shaft l of the loom to which the drivingpower is applied, the latter shaft being arranged in rear of Hin fixed bearings. The crank-shaft receives rotary motion through the gears I3 H3 G3. The movement of the boxes G2 G2 back and forth is not sufficient to cai ry the gear G3 out of gear with H2, and therefore does not interfere with the rotary motion of the crank-shaft G.

g g are two screws arranged parallel with the sides of the loom, one near each side for producing the movement ot' the boxes G2 G2 back and forth. These screws are made with journals at their ends, and these journals are so fitted to fixed bearings g2 g2, secured to the loom-framing, that though they are free to turn they cannot move longitudinally. Their screw-threads, one being left handed and the other right handed, are received within nuts g g' attached to their respective boxes G2 G2, so that the rotary motion ofthe screws causes the boxes to move back and forth. The said screws are furnished with bevel-pinions g3 g3, ge arin g with two bevelgears,l 3 J3, upon a shaft, J, whichis arranged parallel with the main and crank shafts in suitable fixed bearings, the said gears being arranged to turn the two pinions in opposite directions, so that when set in operation the two screws will act to move the boxes G2 G2 and crank-shaft G in the same direction, either back or forth. lhe only reason for making one screw righ a-nd the other left handed is that, owing to |heir arrangement, they could not both be conveniently geared to turn in one direction at the same time. The rotary motion of the sha-ft J and gears J3 J3 to produce the receding movement of the boxes G2 G2, shaft, and lay, is obtained from a cam, H', on the shaft H, the said cam operating upon a lever or treadle, K, which is attached to a fulcrum, k, (Fig. 3,) on the front part of the framing, and which carries a pawl, K', which engages with a ratchet-wheel, J on the shaft J. The cam H', making one revolution during each stroke of the lay, raises the lever K and causes the sufficient distance in the direction of the arrow,'shown upon it in Fig. 3, to make the screws g g draw back the lay a distance equal to the thickness of one pick of weft. rlhe reversed movement of the shaft J, gears J3 J3 and g3 g3, and screws g g to carry forward the boxes G2 G2 and crank-shaft G, and so cause the advance of the lay when it is desirable 1o take up, is produced by means of a large spur-gear, 12, on the main shaft I gearing with a smaller gear, J2, on the shaft J. 'lhe gear l2 is fast on the drivingshaft, but the gear J2 turns loosely on its shaft J until the time for taking up arrives, when it is coupled with .the shaft by means of a sliding clutch,`J4, Fig. l, which is then brought into gear with it by the action of a lever, J5, which is attached by its fulcrum-pin f to the back of the frame, and which is operated by means of a cord, h., Fig. l, connected with and actuated by the Jacquard machine, another cord, i, connected with and actuated by the same machine, coming into operation just of gear with the ratchet-wheel. The forward movement of the crank-shaft and advance of the lay must be produced in less time than is occupied by one revolution of the said shaft, and therefore it is desirable not to have the lay recede farther than can be avoided. l prefer never to let it recede more than about an inch and a quarter, but in many parts of the work it need not recede nearly so much, and in plain parts, in which the lling is inserted through the whole width of the warp, it may be allowed to recede during four or eight picks of the shuttle and then advance again. Where a long piece of irregular work comes in, the lay may be allowed to advance and the work be taken up at any time by inserting one or two picks of filling through the whole width ofthe warp, after which the rereceding movement may commence again. When, however, the weaving proceeds al1 across the warp for any considerable number of picks, it is not necessary to have the lay recede, as the take-up may operate at every fourth, sixth, or eighth pick. The advancing and receding movements are entirely under 3; manantial pawl to turn the ratchet wheel and shaft J a` previously to draw back the pawl K' out the control of the Jacquard machine. The crank-shaft, when it moves forward, always comes to the same position, where it is stopped by the clutch J4, being thrown out of gear from the gear J2 by means of a bellerank lever, J6, Fig. 1, which works on a fixed fulcrum, j, at the right side of the loom-framing. This lever is hooked to the crank-shaft, and, as the said shaft moves forward,it is made to press the lever away from the gear J2 and draw away the clutch. 'When the shaft J is thrown out of gear from, l the Jacquard machine allows the cord t', which is connected with the pawl K', to drop and let the said pawl come into operation again to reproduce the gradual receding movement of the crankshaft and lay. The receding and advancing movements do not interfere with the usual regular vibration of the lay, as the rotary motion of 'the crankshaft is uninterrupted.

L' Z2 Z3, Figs. l and 3, are take np-rolls, three in number, arranged in fixed bearings in two plates, L L, which are secured to the breastbeam B. These rolls will be hereinafter more fully explained.

M M' are the jaws by which the cloth is held smooth between the reed and the takeup rolls. The length of these jaws is somewhat greater than the width of the web, so that they extend all across it. The upper jaw, M', is fitted with a series of sharp pointed pins, n a, to penetrate the cloth and keep it from slipping back, and in the upper face. of `the lowerjaw, M, there is a series of holes or a longitudinal groove for the reception and protection of the points of the said pins. The lower jaw has attached to and extending all across it a straight wire, m, under which the cloth passes, and which serves to pull the cloth oftl the pins a n of the upper jaw when the jaws open, and so leave it free to be drawn through the jaws by the action of the take-up rolls, aided by the action ot' the reed. The upper jaw, M', is attached at its en ds to the rear ends of two levers, N', which work on fixed fulcrum-pins p', secured in the plates L L, and the lower jaw, M, is attached to the lfront ends of two similar levers, N working on fulcrum-pins p, secured in the said plates. The front ends of the levers N N' are connected by rods q q', with two disks, P0 P2, which are fast on a horizontal rock-shaft, P, which is arranged below the take-up rolls in suitable fixed bearings, the connections of the rods from the two jaws being made on opposite sides of the centers of thedisks, as shown in Fig. 3, that by turning the said rock-shaft in the direction of the arrow marked on the disk P, which is visible in Fig. 3, thejaws may be opened, and by turning it in the opposite direction they may be closed. The said rockshaft is furnished with an arm, l", under which there is applied a spring, P3, which always presses it upward, and so tends to turn the rock-shaft in the opposite direction to the arrow shown upon the disk P0 in Fig. 3, and thereby keep the jaws closed.

The said arm `P' has suspended from it a hook, P4, Fig. 4, closeto one side of which there is arranged a lever or treadle, P5, which is depressed by a cam, H2, on the shaft H, once during every revolution of the said shaft and crank-shaft, and raised again by a spring, r. lever or treadle is furnished with a projecting pin, k, which is capable of engaging with the hook P4; but the said hook hangs out of the way of the said pin untiljust before the proper time for the take-up to take place, when the said'hook is pulled forward by a cord, k', which connects it with the Jacquard machine, to a position to catch the pin 7c in the next descent of the treadle P5. The said pin then depresses the hook and pulls down the arm P', thereby turning the rock-shaft P in the direction of the arrow shown on the disk P0 in Fig. 3 and opening the jaws. As the first backward movement of the reed takes place the treadle P5 rises and allows the jaws to be closed again by the spring P2, and they remain closed until the take-up is about to operate again, when they are opened, as before described.

The take-up rolls l' Z2 l2 may be each one of piece or divided in transverse planes into several pieces orsections. The irregularity of the form of their longitudinal profile is shown in Fig. l. This irregularity of form is to be varied according to the irregularity of the form of the article to be woven. The rolls represented are for corsets, which are woven so that the width of cloth or web forms the length of the corset. The fullness for the breast and upper parts ofthe body, and for the hips and lower parts of the body, is thus brought to the two sides ofthe web and makes the sides much longer than the central portion, which formsl the waist. To accommodate this form of goods, the rolls are made smallest at or near the middle of their length, and gradually increase in diameter toward their ends in proportion as the fullness makes the length of the cloth or wel) greater toward the selvages. The three rolls are alike, and of a length slightly less than the width of the web, and a loose metal washer, furnished with sharp points at its edges, is applied at each end of the roller to make up a length equal to the full width of the web and keep the web extended laterally and prevent it from drawing down to the smaller portions of the rolls, as it has a natural tendency to do. The three rolls are geared together by spur-gears t t tat one end, as shown in Fig. 5, so that all are compelled to rotate together at the same speed, the two upper ones, l' L3, rotating in the same direction, and the lower one, l2, in the opposite direction. The power to turn them is applied to a ratchetwlleel, u., on the lower roller, l2, by means of a long pawl, u', which is attached to the disk P2 ot the rock-shaft P. The rollers are not rigidly secured upon their respective shafts, but fitted thereto in such manner as to produce a sufficient amount of friction to make them turn with the shafts and take The said up the cloth, but also to permit the shafts to turn without them in case of the movement given to the shafts being greater than is necesv sary to take up the quantity of cloth woven since the last previous operation ot' the takeup; and in case the rollers are made of a number of separate sections, each section must be so applied as to be driven separately by the friction oi" the shaft, and to stop when its respective portion of the web has been taken up. The movement given to the takeup rolls by the pawl u is always the same, whatever be the quantity of cloth to be taken up, and hence the necessity of the rollers being capable of slipping upon the said sha-tt. The said movement must always be fully sufficient to produce the greatest required amount of operation of the take-up. The cloth passes over the top of the irst roller l', under the second l2, and over the third Z3, and thence to a drum, Q', on which it is rolled up loosely as fast as it is delivered thereto by the take-up rolls by the action of a weight, Q4, which is suspended from a cord, Q2, which is attached to a pulley, Q3, secured to one end of the said (lrum, and which passes through suitable guidesunder the lay and shaft G and over the upper rails, d d, ot the frame, the said weight and cord turning the drum in the direction of the arrow shown on the pulley Q3, in Fig. 3. As, owing to the take-up rolls being driven by friction, they will not have sufficient power to draw the whole web forward without aid, the jaws M M do not open, nor do the take-up rolls operate till the lay beats up, when the reed assists the action of the take-up rolls and the jaws close again before the lay swings back.

It is the shuttle, having grooves in its upper and under sides to receive the edges of the boards or blocks v e', which are bolted to the lay. In the under side ot' this shuttle there is a sunk rack, which gears with the pinions w w', which work in recesses in l(he lower board, c', and which also gea-r with the drivingrack S, which is fitted to slide lengthwise within the lay, and which is connected by two cords or straps, e' 00, with a pulley, lll, which is arranged to turn freely on a pin, j, which is secured in a fixed standard, T erected upon the lay, the said cords or straps running round the said pulley in opposite directions and being 'fastenedtheretm so that by turning the said pulley in one direction it will wind up the cord or strap a7', thereby moving' the drivin g-rack to the right and causing the pinions fw fw to drive the shuttle to the left, and by turning the said pulley in the other direction it will wind up the cord or strap x, thereby moving the drivingrack to the left and causing the pinions to drive the shuttle to the right. The movement of the pulley T is produced by two cords or straps, z z, which work upon a smaller pulley, U, Fig. 2, fastened to the said pulley T. These vcords or straps z e pass round the said pulley T in opposite directions, and each is fastened at one end to the pulley U, and at the other endV to the lower end of one of two hooked slides,y

W W', which are arranged to work up and down in guides 10 10 in a frame, G2, attached to one of the swords of the lay. The upper ends of the hooked slides W W are coni nected with opposite ends of a cord or strap, 11, which passes over a pulley, X, at the top of the frame C2. Behind the said hooked slides there is arranged in the guides 10 10 a third slide, VVi, which is furnished with a pin, 14, and is connected by a rod, 13, with a crank, 15, on the end ot' the crank-shaft G. The rotary motion of the crank 15 produces a reciprocating rectilinear motion of the slide IVit, and in every descent of the said slide its pin 14 catches in the hook 12 of one of the slides WV Wl and draws it down with it, causing the cord or strap 11 to draw up the other of said slides, and so causing the pulleys U and T to be turned in one direction, and the movement ot' the shuttle in one direction to beproduced. During the ascent of the slide the slides W WV', and all their connections, remain stationary, and the shuttle is stationary on one side ofthe reed, and in the next descent of the said slide W* it catches the hook 12 of the other ofthe two slides W( W and pulls it down, thereby drawing up the slide W or XV', previously depressed, turning the pulleys U and T in the opposite direction to that last mentioned, and producing the movement of the shuttle in the other direction. The two pulleys T and U, being at` tachcd together, might be considered as portions ot' the same pulley, and, in fact, will generally be made in one piece.

By the employment for actuating the shuttle-driving rack S of a pulley or pulleys, T U, applied and operating as described, I am enabled to reduce the height of the loom much below what it would require to be with the usual mode of actuating the driving-rack by means of a system of hooked slides and pulleys, as by reducing the size of the pulley or do not require to have the movement of the drivin grack and shuttle. In case of two shuttles being used there will be a substantially similar apparatus at each side of the loom, but the positions of the pulleys and slides will have to be reversed, the pulleys being arranged above the slides.

My improvement in the shuttle is shown in Figs. 6 and 7. In order toapply it the shuttle is made a little wider than usual to' obtain a greater width for the opening 19, in which the quill 16 is received. turn loosely on its spindle 17 in the usual manner, and a pad, 1S, faced with fur or some other soft material, and attached to the shuttle by a spring, 27, is applied to produce upon it a sufticient degree of friction to prevent it from being turned too easily. In the back part of the opening 19 there are attached to i the shuttle by loops ,of soft material two yarn portion of the pulleyU below that of T, I

hooked slides so long as the movement ot' the I The quill istted to V guides, 20 21, consisting of glass rings, and in the front part of the said opening there is attached, in a similar manner, a similar guide, 22. There are also two other similar guides, 23 and 24, attached to long and light spiral springs 25 26, which are arranged lengthwise of the shuttle in cavities provided for their reception in the body thereof at the ends of the opening 19. The springs 25 26 and the cavities provided for their reception are long enough to allow a great range to the guides 23 24. The yarn passes from the quill through the guide 20, thence to and through the guide 23, thence to and through the guide 24, thence to and through the guide 2l, and thence to and-through the guide 22, by which it leaves the shuttle. spiral springs 25 26 are in their normal or contracted condition, shown in Fig. 6, they should hold the guides 23 24 at a distance apart equal or nearly equal to half the width of the goods to be woven, so that there will be taken up or held back between the said guides and the guides 20 21 a length of yarn nearly equal to the width of the goods. The springs being in the above condition, when the pull comes on the yarn as the shuttle is driven across the warp, the spiral springs extend easily and permit the guides 23 24 to be drawn toward each other. Now, the friction produced upon the quill by the pad 18 is sufcient to prevent any yarn from being given oft' from it while any remains held back by -the springs and until the guide 23 has come in contact with the guide 20 and the guide 24 in' contact with the guide 21, and any further movement of the said guides 23 24 is prevented. The yarn will then draw otl'from the quill. When the shuttle commences to return across the warp, and there is a tendency of the yarn to become slack, the springs 25 2.6 draw back the guides 23 24, and so take up or draw back through the guide 22 and into the shuttle the yarn which was left between the said guide and the web at the termination of the previous pick. It is by this taking back and letting out the lilling into and from the shuttle that the leaving of any slack filling in the web is prevented, as whether the weaving proceeds in the whole width or ever so small a portion of the width of the web, the quant-ity given of from the quill or bobbin is equal to what is required for such width, and a uniform ten- .When thel sion of the filling is preserved. Instead of the ring-guide 22, there may be provided in the shuttle an eye, 28, as shown in dotted outline in Fig. 6, for the passage of the yarn Y from the shuttle.

The loom may be constructed wide enough for weaving several webs at the same time, as in weaving tape and other narrow goods, the several harnesses being connected with one Jacquard machine; and it is more especially to provide for the weaving of several webs that I use the kind of shuttle and shuttlemotion herein specified, and not a flyingshuttle.

I do not confine myself to the use of the screws g g, or any particular means of producing the receding and advancing movements of the lay, as various means of effecting this result might be successfully used; but

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. Causing the lay to gradually receed in the loom as the weaving proceeds for a certain distance without any operation of the takeup, and afterward causing it to advance simultaneously, or nearly so, with the operation of the take-up, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.

2. The employment between the reed and the take-up apparatus of a pair of jaws, M M, applied and operating substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.

3. The employment, in a loom for weaving corsets or other goods of irregular shape, of a series of take-up rolls, l Z2 Z3, having a longitudin al prole of irregular form corresponding with the irregularity of the form of the goods, and operated substantially as and for the purpose herein speciiied.

4. Transmitting motion from the hooks W W to the driving-rack S of the shuttle operating mechanism by means of a pulley or pulleys, T U, and four connecting cords or straps, :v fr z z', applied and operating substantially as and for the purpose herein specified.

5. The guides 23 and 24, and their connecting-spring's 25 and 26, applied within the shuttle, to operate substantially as and for the purpose herein specified.

WILLIAM P. BROWN.

Witnesses:

THos. J. DOUGLAS, GEO. W. REED.