US425722A - Island - Google Patents

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US425722A
US425722A US425722DA US425722A US 425722 A US425722 A US 425722A US 425722D A US425722D A US 425722DA US 425722 A US425722 A US 425722A
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thread
arm
eye
needle
hook
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/025Shoe sewing machines for sewing moccasin-type seams

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  • My said improvements relate to that variety of wax-thread sewing-machines in which two vibrating arms co-operate for delivering the I thread to a hook-needle, one of said arms having a thread-eye and the other a controllingarm vibrating in a plane below the eye for aiding in drawing down thread and presenting it to the hook of the needle, and then in gradually releasing the thread as the needle retires into the leather which is being stitched.
  • thread-eye arm known to me has a flattened round end, in which the thread-eye is located, and under all circumstances the thread lies below the arm and eye in its path to the needle, whether said path be direct or by way of the co-operating controlling-arm. WVith this form of eye'arm the rounded portion at 0 the end beyond the eye, when in operation on certain kinds of work, frequently strikes and defaces adjacent leather surfacesas, for instance, the uppers of shoes mounted on lasts while stitching uppers to soles.- An- 3 5 other variety of eye -arm has a finger,and is, in fact, a forked arm, and in this form the eye portion of the arm is flattened, and the thread, as with the earlier form of arm, passes always wholly below the arm at the eye, and when 0 the threadis presented to the hook of the needle its path lies beneath the eye, thence over the delicate projecting tip of the finger, thence around the thread-controlling arm, and thence to the last-formed stitch in the leather, and the hook of
  • My said novel thread-eye arm differs from all others known to me, in that it has at its end directly beyond the eye a thread seat or face, across which the thread is carried laterally by the thread-controlling arm, and therefore said eye-arm is one which during its presentation of thread to a hook-needle is wholly at the rear or one side of that portion or bight of thread which extends from the thread-arm eye to the thread-controlling arm.
  • FIG. 1 illustrates a Campbell wax-thread 5 lock-stitch or shuttle machine with my improvements applied thereto, it being understood that the hook-needle in said machine is axially reciprocated, as disclosed in my aforesaid Letters Patent, No. 388,7 52.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates in side View that portion of the machine in which the thread-eye arm is located,
  • FIG. 3 illustrates in plan view the bracket on which the eye-arm carrier is supported and operated.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates my improved thread-eye arm in its preferred form in side view, and on a scale very much larger than the arm is ever made for actual use, in order to better illustrate its peculiar construction.
  • Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate the same respectively in edge and end view, the latter figure showing the flattened head of the arm in the inclined position occupied by it when the arm is mounted in its carrier.
  • Fig. 7 illustrates the arm in end View with thread passing through the eye in a straight but slightly inclined line, as during the tight ening of a stitch.
  • Fig. 8 is a similar view of said arm with the thread passing through the eye, and thence horizontally across the end of the arm, as when the thread is under the control of the vibrating thread-controlling arm.
  • Fig. 9 illustrates in side elevation (and on a smaller scale) the thread-eye arm and the thread-controlli1 1g arm in position as when delivering thread to the hook of the needle.
  • Fig. 10 illustrates the same parts in plan view and in position as when thread is being delivered to the hook of the needle.
  • FIG. 11 illustrates the two arms in position after the needle has carried down the thread and just after the latterhas been released by the controlling-arm.
  • Fig. 12 illustrates the two arms in position just before the next rise of the needle, the thread-eye arm being then in its most rearward position.
  • Fig. 13 illustrates said arms as when the needle is ascending, the thread-controlling arm having been swung around for picking up the thread and the thread-eye arm being just ready to advance and resume the position shown in Fig. 6, with the thread in the seat across theend of the eye-arm.
  • Figs. 14, 15, and 16 illustrate my novel thread-arm in a modified form, respectively in top, side, and bottom views, the same being shown much larger than the arm is ever made.
  • Figs. 17 and 18 illustrate said arm in end View, one figure showing thread passing in a right line through the eye, as during the tightening of a stitch, the
  • this hook-needle A is one which, as in my aforesaid prior patout, is axially reciprocated, as well as having the usual longitudinal movements, and while my present improvements have special Value in connection with an axially-reciprocating hook-needle they may be profitably employed with needles which are only reciprocated longitudinally.
  • the thread-controlling arm B has and needs,
  • the thread-eye arm 0 is reciprocated, as
  • this arm is substantially vertical, but slightly coneaved, as at c, and this end surface constitutes athread-face or a thread-seat, which is directly beyond the eye and closely adjacent thereto.
  • the flattened head is set angularly, or, in other words, the flat end is in-' elined slightly from avertical line, the lower corner or edge being slightly nearer the needle (when delivering thread thereto) than the upper corner or edge, so that when the eye-arm moves backwardly and the controlling-arm B engages with the thread and carries it laterally the portion of'thread immediately below the eye will easily slip upward over or around the lower corner and occupy the thread face or seat 0, as illustrated in Fig. 8; but when free from the controlling -arm and under strain, as during the tightening of the stitch, the thread occupies a straight line in its passage through the eye, as shown in Fig.
  • the eye being oval or elongated inform, simply because the flat head of the arm is inclined to the path. of the thread, although the outer straight side of the eye somewhat facilitates the slipping of the thread over the lower corner of the arm.
  • the carrier a is reciprocatcd by means of the link d and slide 6, the latter being, as usual, actuated through the rod 6 by a suitable cam in thehead of the machine.
  • f denotes the bight of thread presented to the hook of the needle A, and that the thread end f leads from the source of supply, and also that the thread end f extends from the last-made stitch in the fabric to the controlling-arm 13, between which and the thread-seat c at the outer end of the thread-eye arm 0 the bight of thread f is tightly drawn for presentation to the hook of the needle.
  • the partial rotation of the needle enables its hook to receive the thread with a minimum advance of the thread-eye arm; but if the needle, as in some machines, has no axial movement, so as to turn the hook toward the eye-arm, the latter needs only to be proportionately farther advanced.
  • This Fig. 10 clearly illustrates the presence of the thread beyond the eye of the arm 0, and it will be seen that the end of this arm cannot possibly strike the surface of a shoe-upper during the operation of sole- When this armis mounted.
  • Fig. 11 the thread-controlling arm B is shown after it has been swung around to release the thread during the descent of the needle, the eye-arm 0 still occupying theposition as in Fig. 10, where it remains during the taking up of the thread for tightening a stitch, as after the passage of the shuttle.
  • Fig. 12 the thread-controlling arm B is shown to be still occupying the position shown in Fig. 11; but the eye-arm G has been car'- ried rearward and sidewise, (see slot a of Fig. 3,) so that when the controlling-arm B is next swung, as shown in Fig. 13, it will pick up the thread below the eye-arm and then resume the position shown in Fig. 10, the eyearm 0 being then ready to be moved forward and laterally into the position shown in Fig.
  • the thread With an eye-arm of the ordinary form the thread would lie closely against the rear side of the eye and the outer end of the arm would project far beyond the thread, and with a forked eye-arm the finger of the fork has first to pick up the thread between the eye and the controlling-arm during the forward movement of the thread-eye arm, and when it reaches its most forward position the sharp tip of said finger projects beyond the thread toward, and is sometimes liable to engage with and deface, the upper of a shoe, and so, also, with the forked arms the portion of the arm which is directly beyond the eye is wholly in advance of the thread, and this portion is also liable to strike and deface a shoe-upper.
  • My eye thread-arm may be somewhat varied in its form without departure from my inventionas, for instance, as shown in Figs. 14 to 18, inclusive.
  • the eye-arm 0' here shown has a thread-eye c which is round instead of oval, because this arm at its head is flat on top and is cut away on its under side, so that the thread can pass downward through the eye, as in the ordinary form of eye threadarm.
  • At the one side of the eye there is beneath the head a depending flange c and at the outer end of the head or arm the concave thread-face c is as before described. It will be readily seen that the thread during the tightening of a stitch will stand free'in the eye, as shown in Fig.
  • a hook-needle which is axially and longitudinally reciprocated, a vibrating threadcontrolling arm, and a thread-eye arm which has at its outer end and directly beyond its eye a thread seat or face, substantially as described, whereby the hook of the needle is turned toward the two arms and thread delivered thereto in a straight line extending from the outer end of the eye-arm to the controlling-arm.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

(No Model.)
.G.'AMBOR-N,Jr.
3 Sheets-Sheet 1.
-WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.
Patented Apr. 15, 1890.
(No Mbdel.)
G. AMBORN, Jr. WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.
Nd. 425,722. Patented Apr. 15, 1890.
3 Sheets-Sh'eet 2/ r (No Modem 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.
. G AMBORN, Jr
WAX THREAD SEWING MACHINE.
No. 425,722. Patented Apr. 15, 1890.
' UNITED STATES To all whom, it may concern:
Be it known that I, GEORGE AMBORN,J1., of Pawtucket, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, haveinvented cer- 5 tain new and useful Improvements in WVaX- Thread Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished and forming a part of the same, is a clear, true, and complete description of my invention.
My said improvements relate to that variety of wax-thread sewing-machines in which two vibrating arms co-operate for delivering the I thread to a hook-needle, one of said arms having a thread-eye and the other a controllingarm vibrating in a plane below the eye for aiding in drawing down thread and presenting it to the hook of the needle, and then in gradually releasing the thread as the needle retires into the leather which is being stitched.
thread-eye arm known to me has a flattened round end, in which the thread-eye is located, and under all circumstances the thread lies below the arm and eye in its path to the needle, whether said path be direct or by way of the co-operating controlling-arm. WVith this form of eye'arm the rounded portion at 0 the end beyond the eye, when in operation on certain kinds of work, frequently strikes and defaces adjacent leather surfacesas, for instance, the uppers of shoes mounted on lasts while stitching uppers to soles.- An- 3 5 other variety of eye -arm has a finger,and is, in fact, a forked arm, and in this form the eye portion of the arm is flattened, and the thread, as with the earlier form of arm, passes always wholly below the arm at the eye, and when 0 the threadis presented to the hook of the needle its path lies beneath the eye, thence over the delicate projecting tip of the finger, thence around the thread-controlling arm, and thence to the last-formed stitch in the leather, and the hook of the needle engages with that portion of the thread which is carried by the eyearm between-its eye and its finger; but the tip of the finger is quite liable to override the thread, resulting in failure of delivery to the needle. The said forked thread-arms involve great nicety in construction, are compara- The earliest and most common form of PATENT OFFICE.
GEORGE AMBORN, JR, OF PAlVTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO THE CAMPBELL MACHINE COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.
WAX-THREAD SEWING-MACHINE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 425,722, dated April 15, 1890. Application filed December 7, 1889. Serial No. 332,934. (No model.)
tively expensive, and more or less liable to breakage or injury at the small tip of the finger, and in setting them in a machine for service much care and skill are required, and although such forked arms have much great-er practical value than the preceding simple eye-arms, they are liable to occasional failure in the performance of their duties.
I have now devised a thread-eye arm which is nearly as simple in construction and nearly as inexpensive as the original plain eye-arm, and it is free from the liabilities of injury and breakage incident to the forked arms, and one which can be set with less skill and 6 5 greater facility and also operated with a 1ninimum liability of failure in service.
My said novel thread-eye arm differs from all others known to me, in that it has at its end directly beyond the eye a thread seat or face, across which the thread is carried laterally by the thread-controlling arm, and therefore said eye-arm is one which during its presentation of thread to a hook-needle is wholly at the rear or one side of that portion or bight of thread which extends from the thread-arm eye to the thread-controlling arm.
The ordinary eye-arm as well as the forked arm referred to have both been heretofore employed upon the well-known Campbell wax-thread lock-stitch machine, the ordinary arm having been shown in the United States Letters Patent to Campbell, No. 253,156, January 31, 1882, and a forked arm is illustrated in United States Letters Patent No. 388,752, issued to me August 28, 1888, to which reference may be had, if need be, for a comparison thereof with my present improvements, which have been specially devised for use upon Campbell machines, although applicable to many other kinds of wax-thread machines.
To more particularly describe my invention I will refer to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 illustrates a Campbell wax-thread 5 lock-stitch or shuttle machine with my improvements applied thereto, it being understood that the hook-needle in said machine is axially reciprocated, as disclosed in my aforesaid Letters Patent, No. 388,7 52. Fig. 2 illustrates in side View that portion of the machine in which the thread-eye arm is located,
my improved eye-arm being shown applied thereto. Fig. 3 illustrates in plan view the bracket on which the eye-arm carrier is supported and operated. Fig. 4 illustrates my improved thread-eye arm in its preferred form in side view, and on a scale very much larger than the arm is ever made for actual use, in order to better illustrate its peculiar construction. Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate the same respectively in edge and end view, the latter figure showing the flattened head of the arm in the inclined position occupied by it when the arm is mounted in its carrier.
. Fig. 7 illustrates the arm in end View with thread passing through the eye in a straight but slightly inclined line, as during the tight ening of a stitch. Fig. 8 is a similar view of said arm with the thread passing through the eye, and thence horizontally across the end of the arm, as when the thread is under the control of the vibrating thread-controlling arm. Fig. 9 illustrates in side elevation (and on a smaller scale) the thread-eye arm and the thread-controlli1 1g arm in position as when delivering thread to the hook of the needle. Fig. 10 illustrates the same parts in plan view and in position as when thread is being delivered to the hook of the needle. Fig. 11 illustrates the two arms in position after the needle has carried down the thread and just after the latterhas been released by the controlling-arm. Fig. 12 illustrates the two arms in position just before the next rise of the needle, the thread-eye arm being then in its most rearward position. Fig. 13 illustrates said arms as when the needle is ascending, the thread-controlling arm having been swung around for picking up the thread and the thread-eye arm being just ready to advance and resume the position shown in Fig. 6, with the thread in the seat across theend of the eye-arm. Figs. 14, 15, and 16 illustrate my novel thread-arm in a modified form, respectively in top, side, and bottom views, the same being shown much larger than the arm is ever made. Figs. 17 and 18 illustrate said arm in end View, one figure showing thread passing in a right line through the eye, as during the tightening of a stitch, the
other showing the thread carried laterally across the thread-face, as when about to be delivered to the hook of a needle.
As hereinbefore indicated, this hook-needle A is one which, as in my aforesaid prior patout, is axially reciprocated, as well as having the usual longitudinal movements, and while my present improvements have special Value in connection with an axially-reciprocating hook-needle they may be profitably employed with needles which are only reciprocated longitudinally.
The thread-controlling arm B has and needs,
as heretofore, only a swinging movement, so that its tip will describe the arc of a circle. (Illustrated in Figs. 11 to 13, inclusive.)
The thread-eye arm 0 is reciprocated, as
or oval eye 0, which has its longest diameter crosswise of the flattened head. The outer end of this arm is substantially vertical, but slightly coneaved, as at c, and this end surface constitutes athread-face or a thread-seat, which is directly beyond the eye and closely adjacent thereto. for service in its carrier (1, upon the pendent stem or spindle, the flattened headis set angularly, or, in other words, the flat end is in-' elined slightly from avertical line, the lower corner or edge being slightly nearer the needle (when delivering thread thereto) than the upper corner or edge, so that when the eye-arm moves backwardly and the controlling-arm B engages with the thread and carries it laterally the portion of'thread immediately below the eye will easily slip upward over or around the lower corner and occupy the thread face or seat 0, as illustrated in Fig. 8; but when free from the controlling -arm and under strain, as during the tightening of the stitch, the thread occupies a straight line in its passage through the eye, as shown in Fig. 7, the eye being oval or elongated inform, simply because the flat head of the arm is inclined to the path. of the thread, although the outer straight side of the eye somewhat facilitates the slipping of the thread over the lower corner of the arm. The carrier ais reciprocatcd by means of the link d and slide 6, the latter being, as usual, actuated through the rod 6 by a suitable cam in thehead of the machine. Now, referring to Figs. 9 and 10, it will be understood that f denotes the bight of thread presented to the hook of the needle A, and that the thread end f leads from the source of supply, and also that the thread end f extends from the last-made stitch in the fabric to the controlling-arm 13, between which and the thread-seat c at the outer end of the thread-eye arm 0 the bight of thread f is tightly drawn for presentation to the hook of the needle. In this machine the partial rotation of the needle enables its hook to receive the thread with a minimum advance of the thread-eye arm; but if the needle, as in some machines, has no axial movement, so as to turn the hook toward the eye-arm, the latter needs only to be proportionately farther advanced. This Fig. 10 clearly illustrates the presence of the thread beyond the eye of the arm 0, and it will be seen that the end of this arm cannot possibly strike the surface of a shoe-upper during the operation of sole- When this armis mounted.
stitching, because the thread will be alwaysinterposed between the end of the arm and the upper.
In Fig. 11 the thread-controlling arm B is shown after it has been swung around to release the thread during the descent of the needle, the eye-arm 0 still occupying theposition as in Fig. 10, where it remains during the taking up of the thread for tightening a stitch, as after the passage of the shuttle.
In Fig. 12 the thread-controlling arm B is shown to be still occupying the position shown in Fig. 11; but the eye-arm G has been car'- ried rearward and sidewise, (see slot a of Fig. 3,) so that when the controlling-arm B is next swung, as shown in Fig. 13, it will pick up the thread below the eye-arm and then resume the position shown in Fig. 10, the eyearm 0 being then ready to be moved forward and laterally into the position shown in Fig. 10, and it will be seen that during its forward movement the eye-arm pushes the thread toward the needle, and is always wholly at the rear of the thread, which passes across the thread-seat 0 directly in front of the eye, and the hook of the needle has presented to it a portion of thread, which extends in a straight line from the outer end of the eye-arm to the controlling-arm. With an eye-arm of the ordinary form the thread would lie closely against the rear side of the eye and the outer end of the arm would project far beyond the thread, and with a forked eye-arm the finger of the fork has first to pick up the thread between the eye and the controlling-arm during the forward movement of the thread-eye arm, and when it reaches its most forward position the sharp tip of said finger projects beyond the thread toward, and is sometimes liable to engage with and deface, the upper of a shoe, and so, also, with the forked arms the portion of the arm which is directly beyond the eye is wholly in advance of the thread, and this portion is also liable to strike and deface a shoe-upper.
My eye thread-arm may be somewhat varied in its form without departure from my inventionas, for instance, as shown in Figs. 14 to 18, inclusive. The eye-arm 0' here shown has a thread-eye c which is round instead of oval, because this arm at its head is flat on top and is cut away on its under side, so that the thread can pass downward through the eye, as in the ordinary form of eye threadarm. At the one side of the eye there is beneath the head a depending flange c and at the outer end of the head or arm the concave thread-face c is as before described. It will be readily seen that the thread during the tightening of a stitch will stand free'in the eye, as shown in Fig. 17, and that when the thread below the eye is engaged by a controlling-arm the latter will carry that portion of the thread into a horizontal position and cause it to slip upward and take aturn across and to occupy the thread seat or face 0 at the end of the arm, as is clearly shown in Fig. 18. I
The best results will accrue from the use .of my eye thread-arm with an axially-reciprocated needle, because then the eye-arm can perform its full duty with a minimum of forward movement and a consequent minimum liability of its end to cross the stitch-line; but said thread-arm with its thread-seat at its outer end beyond its eye is far more desirable and effective than eye-arms of the ordinary form when used with needles which have no axial movement, because with my eye-arm the thread is always interposed between its outer end and a shoe-upper, and hence the arm need never strike against an upper.
Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. In a wax-thread sewing-machine, the
combination of a hook-needle, a vibrating thread-controlling arm and a thread-eye arm provided at its outer end beyond its eye with a thread seat or face, substantially as described, whereby the controlling arm, in engaging with the thread below the eye-arm, causes a portion of the thread to lie laterally across the end of said arm beyond its eye and to occupy said thread-seat during the presentation of thread to the hook of the needle.
2. In a wax-thread machine, the combination of a hook-needle which is axially and longitudinally reciprocated, a vibrating threadcontrolling arm, and a thread-eye arm which has at its outer end and directly beyond its eye a thread seat or face, substantially as described, whereby the hook of the needle is turned toward the two arms and thread delivered thereto in a straight line extending from the outer end of the eye-arm to the controlling-arm.
3. The combination, with a hook-needle, of a thread-delivering arm having an eye for the passage of thread to the needle, and also having a thread-seat at and across its outer end, directly beyond its eye, substantially as described, whereby when the thread below the eye is drawn taut laterally and in one direction it will slip to and occupy said seat across the end of the arm during the delivery of thread to the needle.
GEORGE AMBORN, JR. [L. s.] WVitnesses:
MILLARD F. MUNRoE, WILLIAM 0. WEST.
IIO
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4799440A (en) * 1981-08-11 1989-01-24 Maruzen Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Looper changeover device
US4799439A (en) * 1981-07-14 1989-01-24 Maruzen Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Double purpose looper for overlocking sewing machine

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4799439A (en) * 1981-07-14 1989-01-24 Maruzen Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Double purpose looper for overlocking sewing machine
US4799440A (en) * 1981-08-11 1989-01-24 Maruzen Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Looper changeover device

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