US1030867A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

H. BRIGGS.

SEWING- MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED JAN. 20, 1903.

1,030,867. I Patented July 2, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

H. BRIGGS.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN? 20, 1903.

Patented July 2, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

- H. BRIGGS. SEWING MACHINE. APPLICIATIOIY FIILED JAN. 20, 1903.

Patented" July 2, 1912. v

' a SHEETS-SHEET sarticular-1y UNITED s Arrns PEFENT orr on.

HENRY BRIGGS, OF HASBROUCK HEIGHTS, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNELAS- SIGNMENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACI'IINE.

, Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed January 20, 1903. Serial No. 139,844.

To all whom it may concern:

' Be it' known that I, HENRY BRIGGS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hasbrouck Heights, in the county of Beren and State of New J erse have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, and I do hereby declare the following to be a Hill; clear, and exact description of the "invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invent-ion relates to an im- Zrovement in sewing machines and more to chain stitch, sewing mahi-nes of the curved hook needle wax thread type of which the'com --In the patent granted to the present ap plicantOctober 15, 1901, No. 684,538,there disclosed a sewing machine of this type in which the takeup acts to set the stitch, with a yielding, and gradually increasing force, while the tightening of the stitch is" performed in substantially thesame manner as in the machines of the prior art, such, for example, as in the Well-known Goodyear welt and turn machines. In this connection it may be stated that the terms tighten the stitch andset the stitch "as used in this specification refer respectively to the taking of slack out of the thread which has been drawn through the materials to form the stitch, and to the drawing of the con I catenation of thread which forms the stitch into the position which it assumes iii-the finished seam. .In said Goodyear sewing machine the stitchis set by a take-up which exerts an unyielding inward strain on the thread, that is in the direction toward the median line of the shoe, and by making the take-up act yieldingly and with gradually increasing force the advantages set forth in needle, that is in the direction -said patent were obtained. In the-machine of said patent, however, as well as in the said Goodyear machine, the stitch tightening strain was exerted outwardly by the outward from the median line of the shoe and such strain was exerted with a sudden twitch'or jerk which when such strain is excessive is liable to cut or tear the between substance or so injure it as to impair the strength or appearance of the shoe. v strain washable to tray or break the thread Moreover, such mercial welt and turn at the needle hook when the slack had been taken out of the previous loop standing around the thread just drawn through by the needle (which slack exists because of the difi'erence in size between the needle, against which the thread had previously been drawn taut by the take-up, and the strands of thread just drawn through such loop by the 1ieedle)'and especially if such strain-was brought upon the thread with 'a sudden twitchor jerk. This is inpart due to the resistance of the thread to rendering in the book of the needle, because of the,

pressure which has been exerted by the ma terials upon the thread in the needle hook during its passage through them, and 1n part due to the tension upon the thread which, int-he Goodyear machine, is the full tension strain WhlCh'lS necessary in settlng the stitch but which is' not required in tightening the stitch as a comparatively small tension is required for this purpose. But

Patented July .2, 19 12.

where, as in said Goodyear machine, the pullofi movement of the take-up is necessarily made less than the'average amount consumed in each stitch in order to compensate for variations of thickness of the materials being sewed, itis necessary for the needle at the latter part of its retracting. T

stroke and after it has tightened vthe' pre ceding stitch to pull ofi a slight compensatory amount of thread which causes the thread to reeve to a slight degree under tension in the hook of the needle. It is desir-- able therefore, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art, to reduce the outward strain to a minimum, because of the cutting action of the thread on the materials, and

-to reduce the reeving of the thread in the hook of the needle to a minimum in order to avoid as far as possible the injurious action of the needle on thethread.

I It has been found by the applcant that the outward strain and the reeving of the thread are susceptible of'being reduced by yieldingly controlling the needle" or other,

stitch tightening inst-rumentality during the latter part of the loop drawing stroke of the needle. During the forward anorement of the needle and during the first portion of itsretracting movement it is preferable that the needle should be positively actuated, because, among other reasons, of the necessity for timing its unovements at this 55 lines in 7. connecting link 5, there -is providedqa protime accurately with relation to the movements of other stitch forming instrumen talities. I v j The object of the present invention is to produce a sewing machine of the curvedbo'died yielding means on the needle side of the work acting during the tightening of the stitch to exert a yielding strain on the thread to reduce the sudden outward strain above described to a minimum and to relieve as far as practicable the between substance and the thread therefrom.

Other objects of the invention are to reorganize and improve sewing machines of this class by combining the yielding take-up withthe yielding action of the stitch tightening devices and to improve the machine in other respects hereinafter pointed out.

' To theabove ends the present invention consists in the devices and combinations of devices hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims.

Figure 1 is'a front elevation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a side elevation looking from the'left hand side of. Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a rear elevation; Fig. 4 isan enlarged detailof a portion of the thread finger actuating mechanism; Fig. 5 is a development 30 of the cam for the thread finger; Fig. 6 is a front elevation of the take-up and its actuating'mechanisms; and Fig. 7 isia side elevation illustrating the cooperating rela tions of. the needle and take-upj and of the actuating mechanisms at different positions during their operation.

The-needle N is the usual curved hook needle supported in the usual needle segment 1, and actuated by the needle lever 2,

which carries a cam roll 3, which runs in a cam groove in the side of the cam disk 4:. The needle segment is connected to, the

needle lever by means of a connecting link 5, which is pivotally attached to the needle segment at one end and yieldingly connected to the needle lever 2, at; the other end, said link being provided with a slot t3, which rev ceives a'pin 7', secured in'the-front end of .the needle lever 2. A spring 8', secured to the needle lever 2, by means of the bolt 9,

is provided at its front end with an adjustingscrew 10, which engages the lower end of the connecting link 5, and normally tends to hold it in the ositien illustrated in full pon the rear side of the ]ection 11, which is adapted to engage a' coiiperating rojection 12, on the side of the front end 0 the needlelever 2. The projection 11, is in engagement with projection 12, during the first part of the retracting movement of the needle but separated therefrom during the-latter part. of the retracting stroke of the needle operating in a mat-ffnenabout to be described. The above-deneedle chain-stitch class in which are em-.

the spring '8.

is positively actuated to force it" through the materials and during thefirst part of the retracting stroke of the needle, the projection '11 of the link 5 being in contact w ith the projection 12 of the needle lever 2, the needle is positively actuated during the first part of its retracting movement; but after the needlehas withdrawn far enough to remove its hook from the embrace of the materials the projections separateand the further rearward movement of the needle is yieldingly controlled under the infiuenceof Thus during the time the needle is overcoming the resistance of penetrating materials and during the time the needle is drawing the, loop of thread through the materials it-is positively controlled but during the latter part of its retracting stroke it is yieldingly controlled so that the rearward motion of the needle may cease before the-needle lever 2 reaches the limit of its motion tending to withdraw the needle, so that during the last part of the retracting stroke of the needle it exerts anuninterruptedly yielding pull upon the thread.

thereby tightening the stitch under yielding pressure. I

To insure a sufiicient retraction of the needle to avoid interference with the welt 7 is designed to engage the upper end of the slot 6 in the link 5 and thus retract the needle positively in the event that the-loop drawn back by the needle tends to hold the needle in too low-a position. a

The back gage G, the back rest .R, the looperL, the channel guide C, all are constructed and operate substantially as in said Goodyear machine. The awl A, is mounted. on the awl lever 13,'which is supported in the usual manner upon the feed slide 14; The means of actuating the awl to make its work-feeding stroke are substantially the same as in said Goodyear machine and the means for actuating the awl to make its work-piercing stroke are also substantially the same as in said Goodyear machine, except in the respect that the bell crank lever 15, which actuates the awl lever is mounted upon a sleeve, which carries the take-up lever as hereinafter described. I

The threadfinger F, is mounted upon a shank l6, whiil h is supported in the bearing in the frame d f the machine so that it oscillates and reciprocates therein. Upon the upper-end of the shank 16 is mounted a pinion 17, and a cam 18, which are secured to said shank 16. y The pinion 17, is engaged by a segmental gear 19, which is pivoted upon the stud 20, andoperated by means of the link 21, from the bent lever 22, pivoted at 23 upon the frame of the machine, which bent lever carries upon lts upper end a cam guide and to provide a sufiicient length of 'loop to reach to the next needle hole, the pin roll, which engages a cam groove in the side of the cam disk 24;. The thread finger cam 18, is engaged by a spring finger 25, which is supported upon the frame of the machine and normally acted upon by the spring 26, which tends to move the free end of the finger 25 downward. The spring 27 which is supported between the said cam 18 and a projection 28 upon the frame of the machine acts upon the upper side of the cam 18 and tends to hold the shank of the thread finger in its lowermost position. The abovedescribed arrangement and the shape of the cam paths are such that when the thread finger is thrown forward to engage and draw out its bight of thread, the spring finger passes through the upper part of the cam groove from left to right until it reaches the point 29, at which spring 26 forces the finger 25 downward through the vertical'port-ion of the cam groove to the position 30; then as the thread finger is rotated in the opposite direction the finger 25 having reached the limit of its downward increment, engages the inclined portion of the am groove and thereby lifts the 'cam and with it the shank 16 of the thread fin- I get" compresses the spring 27,thus as the thread fin er is moved forward to give up its thread to the needle it is-lifted. This action continues until the end of the finger 25 reaches the position 31 in the cam path, whereupon the compressed spring 27 forces the cam 18, and with itthe thread finger shank l6 downward thereby caus ng the end of the finger 25 to occupy a p1 $sit1on1n the cam path indicated at 32. ghe: operations above described are repeated for eachst tch. The tension indicated in a general Way by the reference-letter T consists of a thread truck 33, mounted upon a stud 34 the rearof the frame of the machine iniositren. to receive the thread asit. passesup rem the wax pot. A brake-shoe 35 carried. in the lower end of a brake lever 36 1s arrangedto engage the groove in. the thread truck 33, and a spring 37 normally tendsto hold the brake-shoe 35 in engagement with the sun face of the thread truck. Adjusting means are provided for regulating the pressure of the brake-shoe upon the thread truck The forward end ofthe brake lever 36 is provided with a cam roll, which engages a cam surface on the cam disk 24. The above described arrangement and the shape of the l- II surfaceare such that 1nter1 n1tt1ngly during the operation of forming each stitch the brake-shoe is raised so as to relieve the tension on the thread.

The" take-up indicated in a general way by the reference letter U, consists of a :a-itljjalstably secured to the arm 40, .pivotally anounted'*upon stud 4,1, secured on a stav tionary part of the machine. is adapted to yield during the operation of the take-up so as to cause its action to be exerted upon the thread with elastic pressure, thereby cushioning the take-up action. The arm 40 is secured to a sleeve 43, which embraces the stud or pin 41, and passes through the hole in'the awl 'bellcrank lever 15, thereby affording a convenient support for said bell-crank lever. Upon the opposite end of the sleeve 43 is secured the'arm 4.4 which is slotted at its lower end at 45 to receive a pin 46 in the end of the link 47, which connects said arm 4a with the cam lever 48 pivoted at 4:9 upon the frame of the machine. Intermediate its ends the lever 48 carriesa cam roll which engages a cam path in the side of the cam disk 50. The abovedescribed arrangement is such that after the needle has penetrated the material, the take up is moved to exert an uninterrupted yielding and gradually increasing strain upon the thread in order to set the stitch of which the loop around the needle forms a part.

The forms of the various cams which actuate the several parts ofthe'machine are not illustrated in the drawings as from the description of the construction, organization and mode of operation of the machine such cams could be laid out by any machine designerfamiliar with the designing of shoe sewing machines. v

\ In general the operation ofthe machine is similar to the operation of. the machine of .my said patent, except where its operation is similar to the operation of the parts of the said Goodyear machine as herein stated. The action of the take-up is similar in all substantial respects to the action of the "take-up in the machine of my said patent. The needle, however, is different in operation from the needle of-t-he Goodyear machine in this, that while-the needle is' makiiing its retracting stroke it is controlled by the spring 8, so that the stitch tightening ,pdulll upon the thread instead of being rigy ftherehy relieving the thread and between 1 substance ofthe sudden twitch or-jerk which occurs in said Goodyear machine. hVhenthe needle lever-2 is depressed to advance the needle, the pin 7 engages the lower end of the needle the projection 11- will be in engagement with projection 12 and the needle -will be positively drawn back through the stock but during the last part thread truck 38, revolubly mounted upon of the retracting stroke of the needle it will {we iena of the n parm r spring 39, 022 under the control of the spring 8 and operated to act yieldingly upon the thread.

It is considered thatthe feature of yieldof the slot 6 in the link 5 and the needle will The spring 39 applied thereto is,yi.eldingly applied,

- ingly controlling'the needle during the last part of its retracting stroke is advantageous "creased and the amount of thread in the formation of each stitch is still' further increased. By this means the excessive strain of theneedle upon the thread during the sewing around the toe is avoided-and'at this time theneedle instead of retreating its full stroke may retreat only so much thereof as is necessary.

iVhile the invention is described as embodied in "a machine employing a yielding take-up it is to be understoodthat the invention, so far-as the feature thereof relating to the yielding control of the needle is cohcerned, may be embodied in a machine in which the take-up is positively actuated throughout its entire stroke, although it is considered that in order to obtain the best results frommy invention it is desirable to employ this feature thereof in connection tim yielding'take-upf While itds believed that this feature of the present invention can be used to the best advantage and will yield the best results when .it is embodied in a machine in which the stitch is tightened by the needle and set by the i take-up, such'for example as the Goodyear machine or the machine of said patent, this feature of the invention is not limited to an einbodimenet in such machine as it is applicable to machines not employing a take up and to machines. in which the stitch is tightened by some other instrumentality than the needle.- I

Having thusfldescribed my inventioml claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent :w 1

1. A chain-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a looper, a curved hook needle, a spring acting during the tightening of the stitch-to exert a yielding strainon the thread on the needle side of thewo-rk, a stitch setting take-up and a spring on the supply of the work which determines the tightness to which the stitch is set, substantially as described.

2. A chain-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a looper, a curved hook needle, a spring acting during the tightening of the stitch to exert a yielding strain on the thread on the needle side of the work and a yielding-take-np, substantially as described.

3. A chain-stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a looper, a curved hook needle, actuating mechanism for the needle including a spring which determines the tightness to which the stitch is tightened, a yielding take-up, and an intermittently acting tension, substantially as described.

4. A chain-stitch shoe sewing machine,

needle segment 1', the link-5 having the projection 11, the needle lever 2 having the projection 12, and the spring 8.

6. 'A chain stitch sewing machine, having,

'in combination, a looper, a hook needle, and

actuating mechanism for the needle h aving provision for positively actuatingit during the first portion of its loop-drawing stroke, and yielding'ly during the latter portion of its loop-drawing stroke.

7. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, ingcombination, a looper, a take-up,

-a curved hook needle, and actuating mechanlsm for, the needle having plOVlSlOD. for positively actuating 1t during the first portion of its loop-drawing stroke, and yieldingly during the latter portion of its loopdrawing stroke.

. 8. A chain stitch sewing machine, having,

in combination, a looper, a hook needle and actuatmg mechanism for the needle, mclud ing means for positively actuating it during the first part of its loopdrawing stroke,

means for yieldingly actuating it during the latter part-ofits loop-drawing stroke, and positive means for actuating the needle during the latter part of its loop drawing stroke acting only in case of failure of the yielding means to secure a predetermined minimum length of loop.

9. A chain stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, a looper, a'hook needle, ac-

tuating mechanism for, the needle having provision for positively actuating it during the first portion of its loop dr u ing stroke,

andyieldingly during the latter-portion of.

itsloop-drawing stroke, and means inclependent of the needle for setting the stitch.

10. A chain stitch sewing, machine, having, in combination, a looper, a curved hook needle, and actuatmg mechanism for the needle having provision for positively actuating it during the first portion of its loop drawing stroke, and yieldingly during the latter portion of its loop drawingz'stroke.

11. A chain stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, a looper,/a hook needle and actuating mechanism for theneedle including a link having a,,projcction, and a cam lever having a cam surface arranged to engage said projection to positively actuate the needle during a portion only of its loop drawing stroke and incans'for yieldingly aetuating the needle during a portion of its stroke.

12. A chain stitch sewing machine-,dmv-

illg,

in combination, sewing instrumeniaiities including a hookneedle, and actuating mechanism for the needle operating in the normal operation of the machine to move the needle positively during'a part of its loop drawing stroke and yieldingly during another portion of said stroke.

13. A chain stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, inst-rumentalities including a hook-needle, and actuating mechanism for the needle having provision for moving the needle positively through a distance sufficient to secure a predetermined minimum length of loop, and for yieldingly moving it through an additional distance.

14;. A chain stitch sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing instrumentalities including a hook needle, and mechanism for actuating the needle including connections arranged to positively retract and then release the needle and a spring to sustain tions.

15."A chain stitch "shoe sewing machine having in combination, a needle segment with a needle thereon, a link with a projection thereon connecting the needle segment with a. lever, a lever having a projection thereon and engaging the projection on the link during aportion of the loop drawing stroke of the needle and a spring operatively connecting the lever and link after the disconnection of the projections and during the latter portion of the loop drawing stroke of the needle.

In testimony whereof I affix my signa ture, in presence of two Witnesses.

HENRY BRIGGS.

'Witnessesz, I HORACE VAN EVEREN, FRED 0. FISH.

qopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. 0.

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