US3903716A

US3903716A - Manufacture of fur articles

Info

Publication number: US3903716A
Application number: US497827A
Authority: US
Inventors: Yves Bernard Duchon; Georges Jacques Optyker
Original assignee: FURPROCESS LICENSING CO Inc
Current assignee: FURPROCESS LICENSING CO Inc
Priority date: 1973-09-04
Filing date: 1974-08-15
Publication date: 1975-09-09
Anticipated expiration: 1992-09-09
Also published as: FI256274A; FR2270324A2; GB1454031A; CA1018786A; IT1011801B; FR2242465B1; FR2242465A1; NL7405773A; DE2421534A1; DK413474A; BE818476A; CH590930A5; IL45490A; IL45490A0; FR2270324B2; DE2421534B2; LU71727A1

Abstract

A method of manufacturing a fur article from animal skins. Each skin is deformed so that it defines a rectangular or trapezoidal surface when placed flat. The deformed skins are cut into one or more strips and the strips are assembled to form the fur article. The strips are obtained from the skins by cutting along cutting lines which extend between the longitudinal edges of the skins and form acute angles with those longitudinal edges.

Description

United States Patent 1191 Duchon et al. 1 Sept. 9, 1975 [5 MANUFACTURE OF FUR ARTICLES 2,287,733 6/1942 Fried 69/22 3,137,963 6 1964 H 6 [75] Inventors: Yves Bernard Duchon; Georges em 9H9 2 Jacques Optyker, both of Paris, France Primary ExaminerAlfred R. Guest [73] Assignee: F urprooess Licensing Co. Inc., Altomey, Agent, or Firm-Young & Thompson Panama, Panama [22] Filed: Aug. 15, 1974 [2]] Appl. No.: 497,827 57 ABSTRACT orelgn p ca IOI'I lorlty ta me o o manu acturmg a r art1c e rom anlma [30] F Aplit' Pr"Da A thdf f fu If I Sept. 4, 1973 France 73.3[866 Skins- Each Skin is deformed that it defines a Mar. 1, 1974 France 74.07011 angular or trapezoidal Surface when Placed The deformed skins are cut into one or more strips and the 52 us. c1 69/22; 2/65 strips are assembled to form the fur aflicle- The strips 51] 1111. (:1. c1415 1/00 are Obtained from the Skins by Cutting along cutting [58] Field of Search 69/22, 192 193-. 2/65 lines which extend between the longitudinal edges of 2/66; |2/262 the skins and form acute angles with those longitudinal edges. [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 11 Claims, 18 Drawing Figures 2,120,152 6/[938 Post 2/65 X A H A PATENTEB SEP 9 I975 sum 2 OF 7 F0) 1 NM) PATENTEDSEP ms 3.903.716

SHEET 6 UF 7 Fig. 17

MANUFACTURE OF FUR ARTICLES The invention relates to a method of manufacturing fur articles such as clothes, trimmings, carpets and the like. The invention also relates to fur articles obtained by the method.

There are two main methods used for manufacturing fur articles such as coats or the like from small furry an imals such as muskrat, mink, astrakhan, etc.

One of these methods, called the full skin method consists simply in sewing complete furs or pieces thereof end to end. This method is simple but has the disadvantage of wasting considerable amounts of material owing to the large number of seams to be made. Frequently, the numerous seams remain visible and may impair the aesthetic appearance of articles manufactured by this method.

The second known method, called the extension method" consists in cutting the skin into a number of V-shaped strips. The strips are sewn to one another so that the outer tip of the V of one strip is at a certain distance from the inner tip of the V of the adjacent strip. This method gives a fur article of clothing which has an attractive aesthetic appearance since the seams are hidden and bands or strips having a considerable length can be made up of a number of strips from a single skin or a similar skin. This method, however, has the disadvantage of being extremely lengthy and requires very skilled craftsmen and also wastes a good deal of material.

The object of the invention is to obviate the disadvantages of the aforementioned method by providing a method of manufacturing a fur article which is quick, economical in its use of raw material, and gives an article having a different aesthetic appearance from articles obtained by the full-skin and extension methods. Small skins and non-specialised staff can also be used.

The invention relates to a method of manufacturing a fur article wherein the animals skin is cut into strips and the strips are assembled, characterised in that the skin is formed into a surface which, when the skin is placed flat, is substantially quadrangular the area of the resulting skin being close to that of the strip which it is desired to manufacture, cutting lines having a length substantially equal to that of the strip are drawn on the surface, the lines forming an angle with the longitudinal direction of the skin, the angle depending on the width of the strip and the dimensions of the aformentioned surface, and the skin is out along the aforementioned lines.

The skin can be cut up by the aforementioned method to obtain rectangular or trapezoidal strips having a length which is much greater than that of the skin used and which, more particularly, may be equal to the height of the fur article which is to be manufactured.

The strips are joined by their longitudinal edges only, thus saving a lot of raw material and time.

The method is also aesthetically advantageous since the fur article can be made up of strips each coming from the same animal and extending all the way up the article.

In a first embodiment of the invention, the trapezoidal or rectangular surface is made by stretching the cased original skin so as to obtain a substantially frustoconical or rectangular closed surface.

A substantially cylindrical or slightly frusto-conical closed surface can be prepared from the cased original skin by wetting the skin so that it is deformable, by dis posing a suitable stretching device inside the skin and by stretching the skin by the device to obtain the desired frusto-conical or cylindrical surface. The stretched skin is then left to dry, after which the stretching device is removed.

In a second embodiment of the invention, the trapezoidal or rectangular surface is prepared by cutting the cased original skin along a line substantially parallel to its longitudinal direction and stretching the skin to obtain the desired surface.

The last-mentioned operation is particularly easy. It is merely necessary to wet the skin, flatten it, stretch it to obtain the desired rectangular or trapezoidal surface and fix the skin in this position by suitable means.

The pieces of strip obtained after cutting the skin are joined end end by sewing, thus forming a strip which may e.g. have a length equal to the height of the article of Clothing which is to be manufactured.

Other features of the invention will be clear from the following description and the accompanying nonlimitative drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 shows a pattern made according to a first version of the method according to the invention,

FIG. 2 shows the pattern in FIG. 1, after it has been folded during a subsequent step of the method,

FIG. 3 shows how the folded pattern in FIG. 2 is applied to a flattened frusto-conical skin,

FIG. 4 shows the flattened skin after the cutting lines have been marked,

FIG. 5 diagrammatically shows the trapezoidal strip of skin obtained after cutting the skin in FIG. 4.

FIG. 6 is a geometrical construction relating to an other version of the method.

FIG. 7 is another geometrical construction relating to the same version,

FIG. 8 is a diagram of a frusto-conical flattened skin after the cutting line has been marked in accordance with the last-mentioned version,

FIG. 9 is a diagram of the strip obtained after cutting the skin in FIG. 8,

FIG. 10 is a diagram of a flattened skin in the form of a trapezium,

FIG. 11 shows a pattern made according to another embodiment of the method,

FIG. 12 shows how the cut pattern in FIG. 11 is applied to the skin in FIG. 10,

FIG. 13 shows the skin after the cutting lines have been marked,

FIG. 14 shows the strip of skin obtained after cutting the skin in FIG. 13 and joining the resulting pieces of skin,

FIG. 15 shows a flattened trapezoidal skin after the cutting lines have been marked according to one version of the method,

FIG. 16 shows a flattened skin on which cutting lines have been marked in accordance with another version of the method,

FIG. 17 shows a trapezoidal skin on which cutting lines have been marked in accordance with a variant of the method, and

FIG. 18 is a diagram of a fur coat according to the invention.

After the front paws have been removed and the resulting holes have been blocked, a skin of a furry animal, inter alia a small animal, is in the form of a tubular or cased surface which is widened at the animal s rump and narrows at its head.

In a first embodiment of the method according to the invention, there is a preliminary step in which the skin is given a substantially cylindrical shape if it is desired to obtain substantially rectangular strips or slightly frusto-conical shape if it is desired to have strips having the shape of an elongated trapezium.

To this end, the skin is wetted and a suitable device is placed inside the skin so as to stretch it until its surface becomes substantially cylindrical or slightly frustoconical. After drying, the aforementioned device is withdrawn. The surface of the skin does not shrink after this operation.

The device can simply be two boards or slats which can be moved apart from one another, either manually or by a mechanical system.

At the end of this operation, the area of the skin is made substantially equal to that of the strip which is to be cut in the skin, so as to reduce losses to a minimum.

In the second step of the method, a helicoidal cutting line is drawn around the substantially cylindrical or frusto-conical skin, the line having substantially the same length as the length of the strip which is to be manufactured and forming a given angle with the longitudinal direction of the skin, the angle depending on the width of the strip and the perimeter of the crosssection of the skin, which has been made cylindrical or frusto-conical.

In a first version of the method (FIG. 1) the cutting line can be drawn as follows:

A pattern ABCD is made for the strip to be manufactured, the length of the pattern being L its major base being AB =p and its small base being CD d, the angle between the longitudinal edges AC and BD being equal to a.

A segment EF is drawn on the pattern, E being on the edge AC and F on the edge BD, so that:

EF is the bisector of the angle (BE, EC) equal to 2b and:

EF is at a distance D EQ from a straight line extending through B parallel to EF, D, being equal to the half-perimeter of the cross-section corresponding to the major base of the skin used, after it has been made frusto-conical.

A segment FG is drawn, G being on the edge AC equal to segment BF, after which a segment GH is drawn, H being on the edge BD, so that GI-I is the bisector of the angle (FG, GC), after which the segment HI equal to Fl-I is drawn from the point H, followed by the segment 1.] bisecting the angle (HI, IC) and the method is repeated in order to draw the segment J K (equal to HJ the bisector KL of the angle (JK, KC) and the segments LM, MN, NO, OP and PC. FIG. 1 shows which segments and angles are equal to one another.

In the example under consideration, the last segment drawn from P intersects the edge AC at the point which is identical with C. Of course, this is a special case; the aforementioned segment can be intersected at a point above or below the points C or D.

Next, the pattern ABCD (see FIG. 2), is folded along the segment EF so that point G is on point B, and is then folded along segment GH so that point I is on point F and then along 11 so that point K is under point H, followed by similar folds along KL, MN and OP. A flat, closed surface is thus obtained. bounded by two longitudinal edges EN and BP extending respectively through points E. F(l). J(Ml um! N(C) and through points B(G), H(K), L(O) and P. Tie two edges include an angle a which is also equal to the angle a between the edges AC and BD of the pattern in FIG. 1. The distance EQ between the two edges EN and BP is equal to the half perimeter D, of the cross-section of the frusto-conical skin at the major base thereof.

One of the surfaces of the resulting pattern AENDPB is placed on the flattened skin 1 (see FIG. 3) so that the edges EN and BP of the pattern coincide respectively with the longitudinal edges 2 and 3 of skin 1 and so that points E and P coincide respectively with the

corners

4, 5 at opposite ends of a diagonal.

This superposition is possible since the major base D of the truncated cone defined by the flattened skin corresponds to the distance EQ (see FIG. 2), the angle between edges 2 and 3 of the skin corresponds to the angle a between the edges EN and BP of the folded pattern, and the area of the folded pattern is equal to the area of the frusto-conical skin.

The result of this superposition is shown in FIG. 4.

As shown in FIG. 4, the segments BF, I-IJ, LN are marked on one surface of skin 1 and segments EG, IK, MO and NP (shown in broken lines) are marked on the other surface thereof.

After the aforementioned segments have been marked, one surface of skin 1 is cut along the segments BF, HJ, LN and the other surface is cut along segments EG, IK, MO and CP (in the direction of the arrows in FIG. 4).

The cut skin 1 is unrolled (FIG. 5) to form a strip of skin 6 having substantially the shape of a trapezium and having oblique edges RP and EQ at each end, corresponding to the two terminal edges of skin 1. Two triangular pieces of skin PRC and EQG are left over and can be sewn to strip 6 along the oblique edges RP and E0. The resulting strip of skin has substantially the shape of a trapezium and an area equal to that of skin Of course, the aformentioned method can also be used to manufacture a rectangular strip of skin. In that case, instead of starting from a slightly frusto-conical skin, we start from a skin which has been made rectangular after stretching and a rectangular pattern having substantially the same area as the skin. In that case, it is easier to draw segments such as BE, FG, HI from the pattern in FIG. 1, since they are all equal.

According to a second preferred version of the method according to the invention, the different cutting lines, shown by the segments EG, BF, IK, HJ etc. in FIG. 4, are directly marked on the frusto-conical skin 1, i.e. without the intermediate use of a pattern as shown in FIG. 1.

In order to draw the aformentioned segments, we need to know the angles between the longitudinal edges of skin 1 and the aforementioned segments.

Let:

b, be the angle (EG, ER)

b be the angle (BF, QP)

b;, be the angle (IK, ER)

12 be the angle (HJ, QP)

b;, be the angle (MO, ER)

[7,, be the angle (LN, OP)

[9-, be the angle (CP, ER)

The angle b can be calculated from the geometrical construction in FIG. 6. This construction shows the part of a trapezium ABCD which is near the major base corresponding to the strip which it is desired to obtain. A segment EF has been drawn on the aforementioned part of the trapezium, in the same manner as when the pattern in FIG. 1 was prepared, segment EF being the bisector of the angle (BE, AC) and parallel to a straight line extending through B and at a distance D from the point E, D being the half-perimeter of the half crosssection of the frusto-conical skin at its major base. The segment FG has been drawn equal to BF, together with the segment GH which bisects the angle (FG, AC). Segment BG intersects segment EF at a point U.

We have:

BU UG D,

The angle (AG, GB) c is such that:

ZU p/2 sinc= angle b,.

We have:

sin (7712 b,) cos b, hence /2 cos b,

This equation, therefore, can be used to calculate the angle b between the segment EG and the edge ER of skin 1, since we know the major base p of the trapezoidal strip of skin which is to be obtained and since we know the perimeter 2D,, of the cross-section of the frusto-conical skin used.

It can also be seen from the construction in FIG. 6 that:

the angle (GF, GF') is equal to the angle (BF, BF) which is equal to the angle a between BD and the straight line BX parallel to AC.

the angle (CG, GF), which is equal to 2b is equal to:

OH is parallel to EF and is the bisector of the angle We therefore have:

2b, a 2b so that b b (1/2.

If we start from the geometrical construction in FIG. 7, which is a view similar to FIG. 6 but shows all the trapezium ABCD corresponding to the strip which is to be manufactured, we can show that:

the angle (Kl, U), which is equal to b is equal to:

the angle (MK, KL), which is equal to b.,, is equal to:

the angle (OM, MN), which is equal to b is equal to:

the angle (CO, OP), which is equal to 12 is equal to:

Angles b b b b b also correspond respectively to the angles (BF. QP) (IK, ER). (HJ, QP). (MO, ER) and (LN, QP) as defined hereinbefore.

If, therefore, we know the angles b,, b b etc, it is merely necessary to draw or mark segment EG on one surface of skin 1 as shown in FIG. 8, so that the angle e.g. (ER) equal to b, is such that:

and to mark the segment BF on the other surface so that the angle (BF, QP) (h is equal to b; a/2, and then to mark the segment IK on the first surface so that the angle (IK, ER) is equal to b; b a.

The process is then repeated, by successively drawing segments HJ, MO, LN and CP forming the angles b.,, b,,, b and b, respectively with ER or QP, since we know that the angle b corresponding to the n" segment can be calculated from the equation:

12,, b, (n-l) (1/2 Next, skin 1 is cut along segments EG, BF, lK, HJ, MO, LM and CP in the direction of the arrows in FIG. 8. The resulting skin is unrolled to form the strip 7 shown in FIG. 9 ending in oblique edges RP and EQ corresponding to the two terminal edges of skin 1. The triangular pieces of skin PRC and EGQ remaining after cutting skin 1 are sewn to the oblique edges RP, EQ.

Of course, this method can also be used to manufacture rectangular strips, provided that the skin used is first made substantially cylindrical. In that case, it is easier to draw the different cutting lines since the angles corresponding to the aforementioned angles b b b etc. are all equal.

NUMERICAL EXAMPLE 1 It is desired to manufacture a trapezoidal strip having the following dimensions:

L, 1m (length) p 10 cm (major base) d= 5 cm (minor base) The strip therefore has an area equal to 750 cm the previously defined angle a being equal to:

S L 0.05 radians or 2.8

o a 20 0.05 radlans or 2.8

In order to cut the thus prepared skin and obtain the aforementioned strip of skin, the skin is flattened and the various segments forming the cutting line are marked on the leather side, as explained previously. The angle b used for drawing the first segment is such that:

1 cos h T= 0.5, Le. b, 60.

The other segments are drawn by using the following general equation:

b,.=b, +(nl) a/2 60+ (n-l) 1.4 i.e. for

It can be seen from the preceding description that the method according to the invention, starting from a skin of a small animal, can be used to obtain a trapezoidal or rectangular strip or skin having a length considerably greater than that of the skin used. The aforemen tioned example shows that a strip 1 long can be obtained from a mink skin not longer than 40 cm. Accordingly, strips can be prepared having a length equal to the height of the fur article which is to be manufactured.

Consequently, an article of clothing such as a coat can be manufactured merely by joining or sewing the strips together along their longitudinal edges.

After the skin has been cut, the fur on the strips extends obliquely with respect to the longitudinal edges. The direction of the fur is modified by wetting the strips, carding the fur in the longitudinal direction of the strips and fixing the fur in the resulting direction, using a fixing product such as a varnish.

In a second method of the embodiment according to the invention, the first step consists in giving the skin a substantially rectangular shape if it is desired to ob tain substantially rectangular strips or a substantially trapezoidal shape if it is desired to obtain strips having the shape of an elongated trapezium.

To this end, the skin is cut along a line substantially parallel to the longitudinal direction of the skin and extending from the rump to the head.

After being cut, the skin is roughly in the shape of a trapezium whose major base corresponds to the perimeter of the animals rump and whose minor base corresponds to the perimeter of the head.

Next, the skin is wetted and stretched by known means until it becomes substantially rectangular or trapezoidal.

At the end of this operation the area of the skin is made substantially equal to that of the strip which is to be manufactured, so as to reduce losses to a minimum.

FIG. shows a trapezoidal skin 10 having a major base equal to 2Do,, the angle between the

longitudinal edges

11 and 12 being equal to a,. The central line 13 extending through the middle 14 of the base strip 2Do of the trapezium is shown in broken lines.

After the skin has been stretched to the desired shape, it can be held in position by means such as nails 15, the skin 10 being flattened e.g. on a wooden table (not shown).

Skin 10 does not shrink after it dries and nails 15 have been removed.

Skin 10 can be cut as previously described. It is folded along the central line 13 so that edges 11 and 12 are superposed; after

edges

11 and 12 have been joined, eg by sewing, the resulting skin has a clyindrical or frusto-conical surface which can be cut according to the first embodiment of the method according to the invention.

According, however, to the second embodiment of the invention, it is preferable to draw a number of cutting lines directly on the trapezoidal skin 10, the total length of the lines being substantially equal to the length of the strip which is to be obtained and the lines forming an angle with the longitudinal direction of the skin, the angle depending on the width of the strip and the dimensions of the skin.

The cutting lines can be drawn as follows (FIG. ll):

A pattern A,B,C,D, is made of the trapezoidal strip which is to be manufactured, the trapezium A,B,C,D, having a major base A,B, =p,, a length L and an angle a, between the longitudinal edges I3,D and A,C,.

A segment E,F, is drawn on the pattern, E, being on edge A,C, of the pattern and F, being on edge B,D, so that E,F, is the bisector of the angle b,, included be tween B,E, and edge A,C,, and E,F, is at a distance D equal to E0, from a line parallel to E,F, extending through B,,Do, being equal to half the major base of the skin 10 in FIG. 10.

A segment F,G equal to segment B,F, is drawn, G, being on edge A,C,, and segment G,H, is drawn, H, being on the edge B,D, so that G H, is the bisector of the angle (F,G,, G,C,) equal to 2b and the same method is used, starting from point H,, to draw segment I-I,l, equal to F,I-I,, segment I,J,, and segments J,K,, I(,L,, L,M,, M,N,, N,O,, O,P, and P,C,. FIG. 11 shows which segments are equal to one another.

Pattern A,B,C,D, is cut along segments G,H,, K,L, and O,P, shown in continuous lines on FIG. 11.

Next, the resulting pattern portions A,B,I-I,G,, G,I-I,L K,, K,L,P,O, and O,P,D,C, are placed on skin 10 and juxtaposed so as to cover the skin. The result of this operation is shown in FIG. 12. It can be seen that the edges G,I-I,, K,L, and 0 of the first three portions are in line with the horizontal edge 11 of skin 10, and the edges G,I-I,, K,L, and 0,1, of the last three portions are in line with the longitudinal edge 12.

In this example, point E, of the first portion A,B,C,I-I, is identical with the point 14 on skin 10 to which the central line 13 extends, since the distance E,Q, is equal to half the major base 2Do, of skin 10.

After the portions of strip have been placed in position, segments E,G,, B,H,, H,L,, O,P, and C,D, are marked on skin 10 and the skin is out along the marked cutting lines as shown by arrows in FIG. 13.

The last portion of skin (O,)(P,)P, is also cut along lines C,R,.

The resulting pieces of skin are joined end to end as shown in FIG. 14.

As FIG. 14 shows. the resulting strip 16 has the shape of an elongated trapezium having transverse seams G,H,, K,L,, O,P, extending in the longitudinal direction of skin 10 (the shaded direction) which is also the direction of the fur. At its ends, strip 16 has two oblique seams Q,E, and R,P, substantially perpendicular to the aforementioned longitudinal direction.

Of course, the last-mentioned version of the method can also be applied to the manufacture of a rectangular strip of skin. In that case it is merely necessary to start with a skin which has been made rectangular after stretching and a rectangular pattern having substantially the same area as the skin. In that case, it is easier to draw the segments such as G,H,, I(,l.., and O,P, of FIG. 10, since they are all equal.

According to a variant of the second embodiment of the method, the different cutting lines denoted by segments E,G,, B,H,, H,L, etc. in FIG. 13 are directly marked on skin 10. A solution to this problem is shown in FIG. 15.

It can be seen that segments E,G,, B,l-I,, I-I,L, and L,P, can be marked for drawing on skin 10 if we know the position of points E and B and the following angles:

b the angle between E 6 and the central line 13 b the angle between B l-l and edge 12 b the angle between H L, and edge 12 b the angle between L,P, and edge 12.

Angle b is also equal to the angle (E 6,, ER) in the construction shown in FIG. 2 and angles b b and b are respectively equal to angles (G K,, G l-l (K,O,, KL and (O C,, 1

In accordance with the demonstration previously described with reference to FIG. 6, we have:

p being equal to the major base of the trapezoidal strip which is to be manufactured and D being equal to half the major base of the trapezoidal skin 10.

It can also be shown that:

aa I722 1 u m aa 1 u 1/2 a, being equal to the angle between edges 1 l and 12 of skin 10.

In general, if the trapezoidal skin was such that it was necessary to draw n segments such as E 6 B l-l H,L,, etc., the angle b corresponding to the 11" segment could be calculated from the equation:

Consequently the following method can be used for directly marking the cutting lines on the trapezoidal skin 10 shown in FIG. l:

Starting from point E at the centre of the major base 2B we draw a segment E G forming an angle b with the central line 13 of the skin, such that:

cos b p, and D being defined as previously.

A point B at a distance d from a line extending through 51,0 is marked on edge 12.

Starting from B, a segment B H is drawn, forming an angle b with edge 12 such that B equals B a The point (K,) is marked on edge 12, so that B K G,H

Starting from K a segment K 0 is drawn, forming an angle b with edge 12 such that b; b 3 0 and the same method is used to draw segment O,P,, since we know that angle b. is equal to [2 5a,,,

The last mentioned version of the method can also be used to construct a rectangular strip. In that case, cutting is simplified since the cutting segments such as E G B l-l etc. are parallel to one another.

NUMERICAL EXAMPLE 2 It is desired to manufacture a trapezoidal strip of skin having the following dimensions:

L, l in (length) p, cm (major base) d, 5 cm (minor base) The strip therefore has an area of 750 cm, the previously-mentioned angle a being equal to:

0.05 radians, i.e. 2.8. 1

lOO

In order to cut the thus-prepared skin, the different cutting lines are marked on the leather side as previously explained (see FIG. 15.) The angle b, used to draw segment E G is such that:

cos b 0.5, i.e. b

The other segments are to be drawn by using the gen eral equation:

i.e. for

The strips of skin may also be cut by the following method (see H6. 16):

Skin 10 is stretched so that edge 16 and central line 13 include an angle equal to b and the opposite edge 17 and edge 12 include an angle b,,, confirming the equation b, b 3a n a, which, in the case in question, is equal to After the skin has been stretched, segments B,H,, H,L L P are marked and respectively form angles b I0 b, with edge 12, the angles being determined as previously defined, after which the skin is cut along the aforementioned segments.

Of course, the aforementioned cutting angles b,, b;, b and b b need not necessarily be exactly equal to the angles calculated from the equations given previously. Deviations of several degrees can be allowed without it being necessary to trim the strips obtained after cutting the skin. Excessive angular deviations, however, may result in strips having unsuitable dimensions or in losses of raw material. Such deviations, however. should be regarded as an extension of the invention.

It can be seen in FIG. 17, for example, that if skin 10 is cut along segments E 0 B l-l H L and L,P forming an angle with the previously-defined segments E G H L, and L P the strip portions can be assembled to form a trapezoidal strip having a length which is different from that obtained by strictly following the second embodiment of the method according to the invention. The latter method, however, may be recommended in certain cases.

The invention also relates to fur articles obtained by the method according to the invention.

According to the invention, the fur articles are characterised in that they are made up of strips of skin extending substantially along the entire length of the article, the length of the strips being greater than the maximum length of the animals skin.

It can be seen from PK}. 18 that the edges of trapezoidal skin extending all the way up the coat (diagrammatically indicated) have longitudinal edges 21 which are disposed at an angle to the longitudinal direction 22 of the skin from which the strips were made.

Similarly, the edge of the skin parallel to direction 22 is at an angle to the longitudinal direction of strips 22.

it can also be seen that strips do not show any seam except at their ends where the triangular portions of skin 23 left after cutting are sewn. Seams 24 could be omitted if a loss at the ends of the strip were accepted. e. g. in the case of a relatively inexpensive fur. Of course, strips 20 inevitably have seams 25 at the places corresponding to the animal s front paws.

Strip 20a has seams 26 at an angle to the longitudinal edges 21. The oblique seams 21 are placed at substantially regular intervals and are substantially parallel to the longitudinal direction 22 of the animals skin.

The oblique seams 21 are produced by cutting the skin parallel to its longitudinal direction, according to the second embodiment of the method according to the invention.

Between 10 and 20 percent of the skin used can be saved by constructing a coat as shown in FIG. 18. Furthermore, the appearance of the coat is particularly pleasing, inter alia because of the small number of visible seams and because each strip is made from the skin of one animal.

It, for example, the skin used has a special feature in that there is some uniformity in the length and density of the fur at the back, sides and belly, the aesthetic effect obtained is substantially comparable with that obtained by the elongation method".

The absence of seams in the strips also results in an increase in weight and flexibility.

Herring-bone, marquetry or other effects left to the imagination of the coat manufacturers can be obtained by using skins which have a non-uniform colour, a very marked edge, or hairs whose density and length differs on the back and belly. The resulting strip will have hair extending in the direction of the longitudinal edges but will show oblique patterns without any seam.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiments described. For example, the cutting lines could be drawn from charts prepared for various skin and strip dimensions.

Of course, the invention can also be used for manufacturing fur capes, trimmings, rugs and similar articles.

We claim:

1. A method of manufacturing a fur strip, comprising cutting a cased fur animal skin along a helicoidal line that forms an angle with the longitudinal direction of the skin depending on the width and the length of the strip to be obtained, and then flattening the resulting strip.

2. A method as claimed in claim 1, and joining a plurality of said strips together along their longitudinal edges thereby to produce a fur article.

3. A method of manufacturing a fur article as claimed in claim 2, wherein the fur on the strips is carded in the longitudinal direction of the strips and fixed in position by a fixing product such as a varnish.

4. A method of manufacturing a fur strip as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cased skin is placed flat and the cutting line is drawn on said skin as follows:

a pattern (ABCD) is constructed for the strip to be obtained,

a segment (EF) is drawn on the pattern, (E) being on one edge of the pattern and (F) on the other edge, so that (EF) is the bisector of the angle between (BE) and the edge extending through (E) and (EF) is at a distance (D,,) from a line parallel to (EF) extending through (B), (D being equal to half the perimeter of the end cross-section of the skin,

a segment (F6) is drawn, (G) being on the side opposite to the side extending through (F) and (FG) being equal to segment (BF),

the same method is used to segments such as (GH), (11) or (KL) and segments such as (HL) or (JK),

the pattern is folded along the segment (EF) and then in succession along segments such as (OH), (H or (KL), the direction of folding being modified each time,

the resulting closed surface is placed on the skin placed flat and segments such as (EG), (BF) or (1K) are marked on the two surfaces of the skin, the segments being identical with the edges of the pattern (ABCD) and the skin is cut along the cutting line formed by the aforementioned segments.

5. A method of manufacturing a fur strip as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cased skin is placed flat and the cutting line is drawn on said skin as follows:

a segment (E6) is drawn on one surface of the skin placed flat, (E) and (G) being on two opposite lonitudinal edges of the skin, so that the angle (b between (EG) and the edge extending through (E) is such that:

cos b.

a longitudinal edge of the skin and the n segment is such that b b (n-l) 21/2, and

the skin is cut along the cutting line formed by the aforementioned segments.

6. A method of manufacturing a fur strip from a cased fur animal skin, in which a pattern (A,B,C,D,) is made for the strip to be manufactured,

a segment (E,F,) is drawn on the pattern, (E,) being on one edge of the pattern and (F,) on the other edge, so that (E,F,) is the bisector of the angle between (B,E,) and the edge extending through (E,) and (E,F,) is at a distance (D l) from a line parallel to (E,F,) extending through (8,), 01) being equal to half the perimeter of the end cross-section of the cased skin,

a segment (F,G,) is drawn, ((3,) being on the edge opposite to that extending through (F,) and (F,G,) being equal to the segment (B,F,),

the same method is then used to draw similar segments such as G,H,), (I,J,),

the pattern is cut along the segments (G,H,), (K,L,)

and i i),

the thus-obtained portions of the pattern are placed on the skin placed flat next to one another so as to cover the skin,

segments (E,G,), (B,H,), (H,L,) and (O,C,) are marked on the skin and bound the different portions of the pattern, and

the skin is cut along the cutting lines formed by the aforementioned segments.

7. A method of manufacturing a fur strip from a cased fur animal skin, in which a segment (E,G,) is drawn on the skin placed flat and forms an angle b,, with the longitudinal direction of the skin substantially according to the equation:

cos b,,

wherein p, is the width of the strip which is to be manufactured and (D is equal to half the perimeter of the end cross-section of the cased skin,

a point (B,) is marked on the longitudinal edge of the skin opposite the edge bearing the point (6,), point (B,) being at a distance p, from the segment (E,G, p,being defined as before,

a segment (B,H,) is drawn and forms an angle b with the edge, substantially according to the equation:

a, being the angle between the two longitudinal edges of the skin placed flat, if the starting skin is substantially frusto-conical,

a point (K,) is marked on the longitudinal edge of the skin bearing the point (E,), so that the segment (E,K,) is equal to the segment ((G,H,),

a segment (K,L,) is drawn so as to form an angle b,,,,

with the edge bearing the point K, so that:

b =b,,+3a, 2 the same method is used to draw other segments, knowing that the n'" segment and the longitudinal edge bearing the points (8,) and (K,) include an angle substantially according to the equation:

2 n a,, and

the skin is cut along the cutting lines formed by the aformentioned segments.

8. A fur strip of one piece without seams, the length of said strip being greater than that of the original animal fur skin and the lay of the hair forming an angle with the length of the strip.

9. A fur article comprised by a plurality of strips as claimed in claim 8 joined together along their longitudinal edges.

10. A fur strip of a length greater than the length of the original animal fur skin, the lay of the hair forming an angle with the length of the strip, the strip being comprised by a plurality of pieces from the same said skin joined together with seams that are oblique to the length of the strip and substantially parallel to the length of the original skin.

11. A fur article comprising a plurality of strips as claimed in claim 10 joined together along their longitudinal edges.

Claims

4. A method of manufacturing a fur strip as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cased skin is placed flat and the cutting line is drawn on said skin as follows: a pattern (ABCD) is constructed for the strip to be obtained, a segment (EF) is drawn on the pattern, (E) being on one edge of the pattern and (F) on the other edge, so that (EF) is the bisector of the angle between (BE) and the edge extending through (E) and (EF) is at a distance (Do) from a line parallel to (EF) extending through (B), (Do) being equal to half the perimeter of the end cross-section of the skin, a segment (FG) is drawn, (G) being on the side opposite to the side extending through (F) and (FG) being equal to segment (BF), the same method is used to segments such as (GH), (IJ) or (KL) and segments such as (HL) or (JK), the pattern is folded along the segment (EF) and then in succession along segments such as (GH), (IJ) or (KL), the direction of folding being modified each time, the resulting closed surface is placed on the skin placed flat and segments such as (EG), (BF) or (IK) are marked on the two surfaces of the skin, the segments being identical with the edges of the pattern (ABCD) and the skin is cut along the cutting line formed by the aforementioned segments.

5. A method of manufacturing a fur strip as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cased skin is placed flat and the cutting line is drawn on said skin as follows: a segment (EG) is drawn on one surface of the skin placed flat, (E) and (G) being on two opposite lonitudinal edges of the skin, so that the angle (b1) between (EG) and the edge extending through (E) is such that:

6. A method of manufacturing a fur strip from a cased fur animal skin, in which a pattern (A1B1C1D1) is made for the strip to be manufactured, a segment (E1F1) is drawn on the pattern, (E1) being on one edge of the pattern and (F1) on the other edge, so that (E1F1) is the bisector of the angle between (B1E1) and the edge extending through (E1) and (E1F1) is at a distance (Do1) from a line parallel to (E1F1) extending through (B1), (Dol) being equal to half the perimeter of the end cross-section of the cased skin, a segment (F1G1) is drawn, (G1) being on the edge opposite to that extending through (F1) and (F1G1) being equal to the segment (B1F1), the same method is then used to draw similar segments such as G1H1), (I1J1), the pattern is cut along the segments (G1H1), (K1L1) and (O1P1), the thus-obtained portions of the pattern are placed on the skin placed flat next to one another so as to cover the skin, segments (E1G1), (B1H1), (H1L1) and (O1C1) are marked on the skin and bound the different portions of the pattern, and the skin is cut along the cutting lines formed by the aforementioned segments.

7. A method of manufacturing a fur strip from a cased fur animal skin, in which a segment (E1G1) is drawn on the skin placed flat and forms an angle b11 with the longitudinal direction of the skin substantially according to the equation: