Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

• ABSTRACT A heat-assisted ammonium thioglycolate permanent waving system is provided in which heat-containing clamps applied to the hair to assist the action of the ammonium thioglycolate bring the hair up to hair waving temperature and maintain it at such temperature for no more than 6 minutes and in which the ammonium thioglycolate solution is weaker than is used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for the same type of hair and stronger than has been used in prior heatassisted permanent waving for the same type of hair.
• This invention relates to a system for the permanent waving of hair in which an ammonium thioglycolate solution of controlled strength is utilized in conjunction with the application of heat at a controlled temperature and for a controlled period of time.
• the permanent waving of hair is commonly carried out by applying to the hair. while it is wound around rolls, an aqueous solution of ammonium thioglycolate to soften the hair strands, followed by removal of excess thioglycolate solution and then by application of an oxidizing solution to the hair to neutralize the ammonium thioglycolate solution and to restore firmness to the hair strands.
• Substantially all permanent wavingfor home use and much of the permanent waving in beauty shops is of the cold wave type in which no external heat is used. Such permanent waving takes a substantial time to effect despite the fact that relatively strong ammonium thioglycolate solutions are used.
• external heat may be applied to the hair while it is wound around the rolls, preferably by the application to each roll of a preheated clamp of sufficient heat capacity to maintain the hair within a desired temperature range for a sufficient time to permit the ammonium thioglycolate to effect its desired action.
• ammonium thioglycolate solutions of lesser strength are used than are used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for hair of the same type.
• the heat content of the clamps and the strength of the ammonium thioglycolate are correlated so that the clamps cool within the appropriate processing time to a temperature at which the ammonium thioglycolate solution loses substantially all of its processing activity.
• the construction and material of the clamps and the temperature to which they are preheated are selected to permit the clamps to heat the wetted hair on the rolls to a temperature about 120F. and to maintain a temperature above 120F.
• ammonium thioglycolate solution for no more than 6 minutes and the strength of the ammonium thioglycolate solution is at a level lower than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in non-heat-assisted permanent hair waving systems and higher than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving systems.
• ammonium thioglycolate solutions act on the keratinaceous protein of the hair to effect the splitting of disulfide bonds in the protein and the creation of sulfhydryl groups capable of bonding to each other upon oxidation to re-create disulfide groups.
• Distortion of the hair strands by winding the hair around the rolls changes the spatial relationship of sulfhydryl groups so that upon oxidation any particular sulfhydryl group is highly likely to be joined to a sulfhydryl group other than the one from which it was originally split, resulting in the formation of a different molecular structure in the hair strand and thereby permanently altering its configuration.
• ammonium thioglycolate solution or the extent to which it can effect the desired splitting of disulfide bonds within a given time at a given temperature is dependent on both its ammonium thioglycolate content and its alkalinity, stronger solutions having higher ammonium thioglycolate contents, higher pH levels, or both.
• the clamps are designed to hold a substantial amount of heat but not so great an amount of heat as to retain a high temperature in the clamps beyond the required processing time.
• the clamps are limited in mass by the avoidance of metal inserts of metal particles, or heavy materials of construction which have been used in prior clamps to maximize heat content.
• the clamps used in accordance with this invention are designed to heat wet hair on a roll to a temperature above F. and to maintain it for a period not longer than 6 minutes. At temperatures below about 120F. the solutions used are substantially inactivated with respect to the particular hair for which they are utilized and the danger of overprocessing is obviated.
• a clamp used in accordance with this invention is removed from a rod heated to about 220F. and immediately placed on a curl.
• the heat retained in the clamp brings the curl up to processing temperature (about 120F.) in about one to one and one-quarter minutes.
• the clamp then continues to raise the temperature of the curl to a peak temperature of about F. and then begins to cool, dropping the curl temperature to a level below about 120F. within 6 minutes after application of the clamp to the curl.
• a specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of normal hair comprises:
• Ammonium thioglycolate (60% aqueous) 15.1000 parts Water, deionized 77.3977 parts Ammonium Hydroxide 0.2800 parts Ammonium Bicarbonate 5.4000 parts Fatty acid modified protein 0.5000 parts Perfume 0.2000 parts Latex opacifier 1.0000 parts Dyes 0.1223 parts
• the ammonium thioglycolate acts to break disulfide linkages in the hair.
• the ammonium hydroxide acts as a swelling agent for hair.
• the ammonium bicarbonate is a buffer.
• the fatty acid modified protein acts as a carrier for the perfume and also as a penetrating agent for the wetting of the hair by the lotion.
• the above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 9.710.] wt. percent (calculated as thioglycolate ion) and a pH of 76:01
• a specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of hair which is difficult to process comprises:
• Ammonium thioglycolate (60% aqueous) 78.2890 parts Water, deionized Ammonium hydroxide 1.2720 parts Ammonium bicarbonate 5.4000 parts Fatty acid modified protein 0.5000 parts Perfume 0.2000 parts Latex opacifier 1.0000 parts Dye 0.0395 parts
• the above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 8.5i0.l wt. percent (calculated as thioglycolate ion) and a pH of 8.4i0.1.
• a specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of tinted hair comprises:
• Ammonium thioglycolate (60% aqueous) 4.05 parts Water, deionized 88.81 parts Ammonium Hydroxide 1.40 parts Fatty acid modified protein 0.50 parts Perfume 0.20 parts Enzyme hydrolyzed protein 4.00 parts Latex opacifier 1.00 parts Dye 0.04 parts
• the above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 2.5i0.1 wt. percent (calculated as thioglycolate ion) and a pH of 9.35-0.05.
• a specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of bleached hair comprises:
• the above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 0.75 wt. percent 1005. It has a pH of 7.6i0.1, or should be adjusted to a pH in this range by the addition of small amounts of ammonium hydroxide, if necessary.
• a typical oxidization formulation comprises:
• Fatty acid quaternary ammonium complex 3.008 parts Hydrogen Peroxide (35% aqueous) 6.230 parts Phosphoric acid to pH 3.5 app. 0.009 parts Silicone antifoam agent 0.010 parts
• the fatty acid quaternary ammonium complex is a conditioning agent which serves to improve the combability of the finished waves.
• the formulation provides a hydrogen peroxide content of 7.3 to 7.5 volume percent and a pH of 3.5 i 0.1 at F.
• ammonium thioglycolate solution for no more than 6 minutes, and utilizing as said ammonium thioglycolate solution, a solution of greater strength than is used on similar hair in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat assisted permanent waving, said solution having an ammonium thioglycolate content in the range between 0.75 i 0.05 and 9.7 i 0.1 weight percent and having a pH in the range between 7.6 i 0.1 and 9.35 i 0.05.

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• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Priority Applications (5)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Publications (1)

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Cited By (5)

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Citations (4)

• 1974
  • 1974-01-11 US US432597A patent/US3885577A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1975
  • 1975-01-10 CH CH25775A patent/CH610741A5/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1975-01-10 JP JP50005507A patent/JPS50116650A/ja active Pending
  • 1975-01-10 BE BE152310A patent/BE824304A/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1975-01-10 CA CA217,744A patent/CA1081125A/en not_active Expired

Patent Citations (4)

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