CA1081125A - Ammonium thioglycolate solution in heat-assisted permanent waving - Google Patents
Ammonium thioglycolate solution in heat-assisted permanent wavingInfo
- Publication number
- CA1081125A CA1081125A CA217,744A CA217744A CA1081125A CA 1081125 A CA1081125 A CA 1081125A CA 217744 A CA217744 A CA 217744A CA 1081125 A CA1081125 A CA 1081125A
- Authority
- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- thioglycolate
- heat
- weight percent
- solution
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A heat-assisted ammonium thioglycolate permanent waving system is provided in which heat-containing clamps applied to the hair to assist the action of the ammonium thioglycolate bring the hair up to hair waving temperature and maintain it at such temperature for no more than six minutes and in which the ammonium thioylycolate solution is weaker than is used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for the same type of hair and stronger than has been used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving for the same type of hair.
A heat-assisted ammonium thioglycolate permanent waving system is provided in which heat-containing clamps applied to the hair to assist the action of the ammonium thioglycolate bring the hair up to hair waving temperature and maintain it at such temperature for no more than six minutes and in which the ammonium thioylycolate solution is weaker than is used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for the same type of hair and stronger than has been used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving for the same type of hair.
Description
1~ ~1 1 2 5 This inv~ntion rela'~es to a sys~m for the permanent ~aving of hair in which an ammonium thioglycolate solution of controlled strength is utilized in conjunction ~1ith the appli-cation of heat at a controlled temperature and for a con-trolled period o~ time.
The perm~nent waving of hair is commonly carried out by applying to the hair, while it is wound around rolls, an ~-aqueous solution o~ ammonium thioglycolate to so~ten the hair strands, followed by removal of excess thioglycolate solution and then by application o~ an oxidizing solution to the hair to neutralize the ammonium thioglycolate solution and to restore firmness to the hair strands. Substantially all per-manent wavin~ for home use and much'of the permanent waving in beauty shops is o~ the "cold wave" type in which no exter-nal heat is used.- Such permanent waving takes a substantial time to effect despite the fac~ that relatively strong am-monium thioglycolate solutions are used.
To reduce the time necessary to effect a permanent wave external heat may be applied to the hair while it is wound around the rolls, preferably by the application to each roll o~ a preheated clamp of sufficient heat capacity to main-tain the hair within a desired temperature range ~or a suffi-cient time to permit the ammon.;um thioglycolate to effect its desired action. ~ith such heat-assisted permanent waving, ammonium thioglycolate solutions o~ lesser strength are used than are used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for hair of the same type.
Because of the~ rapidity o~ the action o~ the ammon-.
ium thioglycolate solution when heat-assisted, it is necessary to control the time o~ its action to avoid overprocessing and ,. .
, , .' ' ' , ' .
.
10~11~5 conse~uent damage to the hair. The operators in such heat-assisted permanent waving æe instructed to limit processing time but so~.etimes fail to do so.
This invention relates to improvements in a heat-assisted method for the permanent waving of hair in which an aqueous solution containing ammonium thioglycolate is applied to hair wound around a roll to wet said hair, the wetted hair is maintained at an elevated temperature by a heated clamp holding said hair æound said roll, excess ammonium thioglycolate solution is then removed and an oxidixing solution is thereafter applied to said hair to neutralize said ammonium thioglycolate solution, the improvement which comprises permitting said heated clamp to heat said wetted hair to a temperature above 120F. and to maint~;n a temperature above 120F. for no more than 6 minutes, and utilizing as said ammo.nium thioglycolate solution, a solution of greater strength than is used on similar hair in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving, wherein said ammonium thioglycolate solution is an aqueous solution selected from a group consisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate conbent between 2.4 and 2.6 weight percent and a pH level be~ween 9.30 and 9.40; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH level between 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7.
This invention further relates to a permanent waving ccmpositiQn ..
for heat-assisted permanent waving whereby hair wetted by said composition is maintained at an elevated temperature by a heated clamp holding hair around a roll, said compositiQn co~prising an aqueous solution selected from a grcup cQnsisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH
level k#tween 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7; said ammonium thioglycolate solution being of greater strength than is used in prior heat-~?~
llZ5 assisted permanent waYing and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving.
In accordan oe with the present invention the heat content of the clamps and the strength of the ammanium thioglycolate are correlated so that the clamps cool within the appropriate processing time to a temperature at which the amm~nium thioglycolate solution loses substantially all of its processing activity. Specifically, the construction and material of the clamps and the temperature to which they are preheated are selected to permit the clamps to heat the wetted hair on the rolls to a bemperture above 120F.
and to mainta m a temperature above 120F. for no more than six minutes and the strength of the ammonium thioglycolate solution is at a level lower than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in non-heat-assisted permanent hair waving systems and higher than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving systems.
As is well known, ammanium thioglycolate solutions act on the keratin~c~o~s protein of the hair to effect the splitting of disulfide bonds in the protein and the creation of sulfhydryl groups capable of bonding to each other upon oxidation to re-create disulfide groups. Distortion of the hair strands by win~ing the hair around the rolls changes the spatial r~lationship of sulfhydryl groups so that upon oxidation any particular sulfhydryl group is highly likely to be joined to a sulfhydryl group other than the one fram which it was originally split, resulting in the formation of a different molecular structure in the hair strand and thereby permanently altering its configuration.
-3a-~r~
;, ~
~ 5 The streneth of an ammonium thioglycolate solution, or the extent to which it can effect the desired split~ing of disulfide bond~ ~ithin a given time at a given teMperature is dependent on both its ar~lmonium thio~l~colate conten~ and its alkalinity, stronger solutions having higher ammonlu~
thioglycolate contents, higher pH levels, or both As is well known in the permanent waving art, human hair varies substantially in the ease or difficulty o~ effect-ing permanent ~laving and in its susceptibility to damage by overprocessing, depending on the basic nat~re of the hair and .
on its processing history. For this reason, it has been cus-tomary, both in cold waving and in heat-assisted waving to select for a particular hair waving operation one of several ammonium thioglycolate solutions, depending on the nature of ~the hair to be treated. The system of the instant invention also provides several ammonium thioglycolate solutions of dif~erent strengths and requires selection ~rom æmong these .
severa~ solutions of a s~ngle solution suitable for a partic-ular head of hair.
It iS to be noted, however, that although the sev-eral soluti~ns used in accordance with the present invention di~fer substantially from each other in processing strength, each of them ls weaker than the comparable solutions used on the same ~ype of hair in cold waving, and each of them is stronger than the comparable solutions used on the same type of hair in prior heat-assisted waving systems in which ~pha-eis was placed on having clamps of maximum specific heat a~
heat content so that the desired elevated temperature could be maintained as long as possib-e.
.. , ~
In the instant invention, the clamps are designed to hold a substantial amount of heat but not so great an '' ,' '.'. .
, amount of heat as to retain a high temperature in the clamps beyond the required processing time. The clamps are limited in mass by the avoidance of metal inserts or metal particles, or heavy materials of construction which have been used in prior clamps to maximize heat content. The clamps used in accordance with this invention are designed to heat wet hair on a roll to a temperature above 120F. and to maintain it for a period not longer than six minutes. At temperatures below about 120F. the solutions used are substantially inactivated with respect to the particular hair for which they are utilized and the danger of overprocessing is obviated. The clamps used in this invention and the apparatus for heating them are described in U. S. Patent No. 3,889,097 dated June 10, 1975. -In a typical operation, a clamp used in accordance with this invention is removed from a rod heated to about 220F. and immediately placed on a curl. The heat retained in the clamp brings the curl up to processing temperature (about 120F.) in about one to one and one-quarter minutes. The clamp then continues to raise the temperature of the curl to a peak temperature of about 125F. and then begins to cool, dropping the curl temperature to a level below about 120F. within six minutes after application of the clamp to the curl.
Example 1 ;~
A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of normal hair comprises:
~llZ5 Ammonium thio~lyco~te (60~o aqueous).... 15.100~ parts ~later, deionized............................. 77.3977 Ammonium ~Iyd-roxide......................... 0.2800 "
- Ammonium Bicarbonate........................... 5.4000 Fatty acid modified protein.................Ø5000 "
Perfume.............. ;........................ 0.2000 "
Latex opacifier...... ~........................ 1.0000 "
Dyes.................................... ...... 0.1223 "
The ammonium thioglycolate acts to break disulfide linkages in the hair. The ammonium hydroxide acts as a swell-ing a~ent for hair. The a~monium bicarbonate is a buffer.
The ~at~y acid modi~ied protein acts as a carrier for the perfv~e and also as a penetrating agent for the wetting of the hair by the lotion.
The above formulation hæs a thioglycolate content of 9.7~0.1 wt.% (calculated as thioglycolate ion) and a pH
of 7.6~0.1.
Example 2 A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of hair ~hich is difficult to process comprises:
Ammonium thioglycolate (60~ aqueous)............... 13.3000 parts Water, deionized....................................... 78.2890 "
~mmonium hydroxide...................................... 1.2720 "
Ammonium bicarbonate.................................... 5.4000 "
Fatty acid modified protein............................... 0.5000 Perfume.............. ~........................ 0.2000 " -La~ex opacifier................... ............ 1.0000 "
Dye............................... ............ 0.0395 "
The above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 8.5~0.1 wt.% (calculated as thioglycolate ion~ and a pH
of 8.4~0.1.
. -6-.
.
- 10~1125 E~:ample 3 A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of tin~ed hair comprises:
~mmoni~n thioglycolate (60~ aqueous)... 4.05 parts Water, deionized......................... ......... 88.81 Ammonium Hydroxide.. ~......................... ~;............... 1.40 " -Fatty ~cid modified protein..................... 0.50 "
Perfume......................................... 0.20 "
Enzyme hydrolyzed protein......................... 4.00 Latex opacifier................ .~............... 1.00 "
Dye.................................... ......... 0.04 "
The above formulation has a thioglycolate content o~ 2.5~0.1 wt.~ (calculated as thioglycol~te ion) and a pH
o~ g.35~0.05.
~xample_4 A speci~ic formulation for use in the heat-assis~ed waving of bleached hair comprises:
~Jater (deionized)..................... ... 91.522 parts Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate............... ........ 0.100 "
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate............... ...... ~ 0.015 "
Ammonium thioglycola~e (60~ aqueous)... 1.200 "
~- - - Ammonillm hydroxide.................... .......... 0.030 Ammonium Bicarbonate................... .......... 5.400 Fatty acid modified protein............ .......... 0.500 Perfume................................ ........ 0.200 "
Latex opaci~ier................ O............... 1.000 "
Dye.................................... ........ 0.033 "
The ab~ve formulation has a thioglycolate content of 0.75 ~It.%+0.05. It has a pH of 7 . 6~o . 1, or should be ad-~usted to a pH in this range by the addition of small amountsof ammonium hydroxide, if necessary.
~7~
''' ~ ' ,' .
- - : , ~ . ' lZ5 E.ach of the above formlliationsj as stated abo~e, drops off substantially in activity (~Jith respec~ to the type of hair on which it is used) as the clamp loses heat and thus the danger of overtreating by prolonged exposure is minimi~ed.
Ho~lever, it is nevertheless preferred to remove the clamps after six to eight minutes of exposure and thereafter imme-diately ~1ash off excess thioglycolate solution and begin the oxidation process.
Oxidation of the heated hair to restore disulfide bonds is carried out in the same manner ae oxidation after non-heat-assisted thioglycolate treatment. A typical oxidi~-ing formulation comprises:
Water~ deionized......................... 90.744 parts Fatty acid quaternary ammonium complex.. 3.oo8 Hydrogen Peroxide (3~% aqueous)................. 6.230 Phosphoric acid to pH 3.5.................. app. 0.009 Silicone antifoam agent....................... O.OlO "
The ~atty acid quaternary ammonium complex is aconditioning agent ~hich serves to improve the combability of the ~inished waves.
The formulation providPs a hydrogen peroxide con-tent of 7.3 to 7.5 volume percent and a pH o~ 3.5~0.1 at 80F. ~ -It is to be understood that the foregoing examples are ~ntended to be merely illustrative and that modifications and variations 1~ill be apparent to those skilled in the art.
.'.''' ' ',, ' .
., ~ . ~
The perm~nent waving of hair is commonly carried out by applying to the hair, while it is wound around rolls, an ~-aqueous solution o~ ammonium thioglycolate to so~ten the hair strands, followed by removal of excess thioglycolate solution and then by application o~ an oxidizing solution to the hair to neutralize the ammonium thioglycolate solution and to restore firmness to the hair strands. Substantially all per-manent wavin~ for home use and much'of the permanent waving in beauty shops is o~ the "cold wave" type in which no exter-nal heat is used.- Such permanent waving takes a substantial time to effect despite the fac~ that relatively strong am-monium thioglycolate solutions are used.
To reduce the time necessary to effect a permanent wave external heat may be applied to the hair while it is wound around the rolls, preferably by the application to each roll o~ a preheated clamp of sufficient heat capacity to main-tain the hair within a desired temperature range ~or a suffi-cient time to permit the ammon.;um thioglycolate to effect its desired action. ~ith such heat-assisted permanent waving, ammonium thioglycolate solutions o~ lesser strength are used than are used in non-heat-assisted permanent waving for hair of the same type.
Because of the~ rapidity o~ the action o~ the ammon-.
ium thioglycolate solution when heat-assisted, it is necessary to control the time o~ its action to avoid overprocessing and ,. .
, , .' ' ' , ' .
.
10~11~5 conse~uent damage to the hair. The operators in such heat-assisted permanent waving æe instructed to limit processing time but so~.etimes fail to do so.
This invention relates to improvements in a heat-assisted method for the permanent waving of hair in which an aqueous solution containing ammonium thioglycolate is applied to hair wound around a roll to wet said hair, the wetted hair is maintained at an elevated temperature by a heated clamp holding said hair æound said roll, excess ammonium thioglycolate solution is then removed and an oxidixing solution is thereafter applied to said hair to neutralize said ammonium thioglycolate solution, the improvement which comprises permitting said heated clamp to heat said wetted hair to a temperature above 120F. and to maint~;n a temperature above 120F. for no more than 6 minutes, and utilizing as said ammo.nium thioglycolate solution, a solution of greater strength than is used on similar hair in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving, wherein said ammonium thioglycolate solution is an aqueous solution selected from a group consisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate conbent between 2.4 and 2.6 weight percent and a pH level be~ween 9.30 and 9.40; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH level between 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7.
This invention further relates to a permanent waving ccmpositiQn ..
for heat-assisted permanent waving whereby hair wetted by said composition is maintained at an elevated temperature by a heated clamp holding hair around a roll, said compositiQn co~prising an aqueous solution selected from a grcup cQnsisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH
level k#tween 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7; said ammonium thioglycolate solution being of greater strength than is used in prior heat-~?~
llZ5 assisted permanent waYing and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving.
In accordan oe with the present invention the heat content of the clamps and the strength of the ammanium thioglycolate are correlated so that the clamps cool within the appropriate processing time to a temperature at which the amm~nium thioglycolate solution loses substantially all of its processing activity. Specifically, the construction and material of the clamps and the temperature to which they are preheated are selected to permit the clamps to heat the wetted hair on the rolls to a bemperture above 120F.
and to mainta m a temperature above 120F. for no more than six minutes and the strength of the ammonium thioglycolate solution is at a level lower than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in non-heat-assisted permanent hair waving systems and higher than that of ammonium thioglycolate solutions used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving systems.
As is well known, ammanium thioglycolate solutions act on the keratin~c~o~s protein of the hair to effect the splitting of disulfide bonds in the protein and the creation of sulfhydryl groups capable of bonding to each other upon oxidation to re-create disulfide groups. Distortion of the hair strands by win~ing the hair around the rolls changes the spatial r~lationship of sulfhydryl groups so that upon oxidation any particular sulfhydryl group is highly likely to be joined to a sulfhydryl group other than the one fram which it was originally split, resulting in the formation of a different molecular structure in the hair strand and thereby permanently altering its configuration.
-3a-~r~
;, ~
~ 5 The streneth of an ammonium thioglycolate solution, or the extent to which it can effect the desired split~ing of disulfide bond~ ~ithin a given time at a given teMperature is dependent on both its ar~lmonium thio~l~colate conten~ and its alkalinity, stronger solutions having higher ammonlu~
thioglycolate contents, higher pH levels, or both As is well known in the permanent waving art, human hair varies substantially in the ease or difficulty o~ effect-ing permanent ~laving and in its susceptibility to damage by overprocessing, depending on the basic nat~re of the hair and .
on its processing history. For this reason, it has been cus-tomary, both in cold waving and in heat-assisted waving to select for a particular hair waving operation one of several ammonium thioglycolate solutions, depending on the nature of ~the hair to be treated. The system of the instant invention also provides several ammonium thioglycolate solutions of dif~erent strengths and requires selection ~rom æmong these .
severa~ solutions of a s~ngle solution suitable for a partic-ular head of hair.
It iS to be noted, however, that although the sev-eral soluti~ns used in accordance with the present invention di~fer substantially from each other in processing strength, each of them ls weaker than the comparable solutions used on the same ~ype of hair in cold waving, and each of them is stronger than the comparable solutions used on the same type of hair in prior heat-assisted waving systems in which ~pha-eis was placed on having clamps of maximum specific heat a~
heat content so that the desired elevated temperature could be maintained as long as possib-e.
.. , ~
In the instant invention, the clamps are designed to hold a substantial amount of heat but not so great an '' ,' '.'. .
, amount of heat as to retain a high temperature in the clamps beyond the required processing time. The clamps are limited in mass by the avoidance of metal inserts or metal particles, or heavy materials of construction which have been used in prior clamps to maximize heat content. The clamps used in accordance with this invention are designed to heat wet hair on a roll to a temperature above 120F. and to maintain it for a period not longer than six minutes. At temperatures below about 120F. the solutions used are substantially inactivated with respect to the particular hair for which they are utilized and the danger of overprocessing is obviated. The clamps used in this invention and the apparatus for heating them are described in U. S. Patent No. 3,889,097 dated June 10, 1975. -In a typical operation, a clamp used in accordance with this invention is removed from a rod heated to about 220F. and immediately placed on a curl. The heat retained in the clamp brings the curl up to processing temperature (about 120F.) in about one to one and one-quarter minutes. The clamp then continues to raise the temperature of the curl to a peak temperature of about 125F. and then begins to cool, dropping the curl temperature to a level below about 120F. within six minutes after application of the clamp to the curl.
Example 1 ;~
A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of normal hair comprises:
~llZ5 Ammonium thio~lyco~te (60~o aqueous).... 15.100~ parts ~later, deionized............................. 77.3977 Ammonium ~Iyd-roxide......................... 0.2800 "
- Ammonium Bicarbonate........................... 5.4000 Fatty acid modified protein.................Ø5000 "
Perfume.............. ;........................ 0.2000 "
Latex opacifier...... ~........................ 1.0000 "
Dyes.................................... ...... 0.1223 "
The ammonium thioglycolate acts to break disulfide linkages in the hair. The ammonium hydroxide acts as a swell-ing a~ent for hair. The a~monium bicarbonate is a buffer.
The ~at~y acid modi~ied protein acts as a carrier for the perfv~e and also as a penetrating agent for the wetting of the hair by the lotion.
The above formulation hæs a thioglycolate content of 9.7~0.1 wt.% (calculated as thioglycolate ion) and a pH
of 7.6~0.1.
Example 2 A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of hair ~hich is difficult to process comprises:
Ammonium thioglycolate (60~ aqueous)............... 13.3000 parts Water, deionized....................................... 78.2890 "
~mmonium hydroxide...................................... 1.2720 "
Ammonium bicarbonate.................................... 5.4000 "
Fatty acid modified protein............................... 0.5000 Perfume.............. ~........................ 0.2000 " -La~ex opacifier................... ............ 1.0000 "
Dye............................... ............ 0.0395 "
The above formulation has a thioglycolate content of 8.5~0.1 wt.% (calculated as thioglycolate ion~ and a pH
of 8.4~0.1.
. -6-.
.
- 10~1125 E~:ample 3 A specific formulation for use in the heat-assisted waving of tin~ed hair comprises:
~mmoni~n thioglycolate (60~ aqueous)... 4.05 parts Water, deionized......................... ......... 88.81 Ammonium Hydroxide.. ~......................... ~;............... 1.40 " -Fatty ~cid modified protein..................... 0.50 "
Perfume......................................... 0.20 "
Enzyme hydrolyzed protein......................... 4.00 Latex opacifier................ .~............... 1.00 "
Dye.................................... ......... 0.04 "
The above formulation has a thioglycolate content o~ 2.5~0.1 wt.~ (calculated as thioglycol~te ion) and a pH
o~ g.35~0.05.
~xample_4 A speci~ic formulation for use in the heat-assis~ed waving of bleached hair comprises:
~Jater (deionized)..................... ... 91.522 parts Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate............... ........ 0.100 "
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate............... ...... ~ 0.015 "
Ammonium thioglycola~e (60~ aqueous)... 1.200 "
~- - - Ammonillm hydroxide.................... .......... 0.030 Ammonium Bicarbonate................... .......... 5.400 Fatty acid modified protein............ .......... 0.500 Perfume................................ ........ 0.200 "
Latex opaci~ier................ O............... 1.000 "
Dye.................................... ........ 0.033 "
The ab~ve formulation has a thioglycolate content of 0.75 ~It.%+0.05. It has a pH of 7 . 6~o . 1, or should be ad-~usted to a pH in this range by the addition of small amountsof ammonium hydroxide, if necessary.
~7~
''' ~ ' ,' .
- - : , ~ . ' lZ5 E.ach of the above formlliationsj as stated abo~e, drops off substantially in activity (~Jith respec~ to the type of hair on which it is used) as the clamp loses heat and thus the danger of overtreating by prolonged exposure is minimi~ed.
Ho~lever, it is nevertheless preferred to remove the clamps after six to eight minutes of exposure and thereafter imme-diately ~1ash off excess thioglycolate solution and begin the oxidation process.
Oxidation of the heated hair to restore disulfide bonds is carried out in the same manner ae oxidation after non-heat-assisted thioglycolate treatment. A typical oxidi~-ing formulation comprises:
Water~ deionized......................... 90.744 parts Fatty acid quaternary ammonium complex.. 3.oo8 Hydrogen Peroxide (3~% aqueous)................. 6.230 Phosphoric acid to pH 3.5.................. app. 0.009 Silicone antifoam agent....................... O.OlO "
The ~atty acid quaternary ammonium complex is aconditioning agent ~hich serves to improve the combability of the ~inished waves.
The formulation providPs a hydrogen peroxide con-tent of 7.3 to 7.5 volume percent and a pH o~ 3.5~0.1 at 80F. ~ -It is to be understood that the foregoing examples are ~ntended to be merely illustrative and that modifications and variations 1~ill be apparent to those skilled in the art.
.'.''' ' ',, ' .
., ~ . ~
Claims (9)
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. In a heat-assisted method for the permanent waving of hair in which an aqueous solution containing ammonium thioglycolate is applied to hair wound around a roll to wet said hair, the wetted hair is maintained at an elevated temperature by a heated clamp holding said hair around said roll, excess ammonium thioglycolate solution is then removed and an oxidizing solution is thereafter applied to said hair to neutralize said ammonium thioglycolate solution, the improvement which comprises permitting said heated clamp to heat said wetted hair to a temperature above 120°F. and to maintain a temperature above 120°F. for no more than 6 minutes, and utilizing as said ammonium thioglycolate solution, a solution of greater strength than is used on similar hair in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving, wherein said ammonium thioglycolate solution is an aqueous solution selected from a group consisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 2.4 and 2.6 weight percent and a pH level between 9.30 and 9.40; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH level between 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions hav-ing a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH
of 7.5 to 7.7.
of 7.5 to 7.7.
2. The method of claim 1 in which said hair is normal hair and said solution has a thioglycolate content of 9.7 ? 0.1 weight percent and a pH
of 7.6 ? 0.1.
of 7.6 ? 0.1.
3. The method of claim 1 in which said hair is tinted hair and said solution has a thioglycolate content of 2.5 ? 0.1 weight percent and a pH
of 9.35 ? 0.05.
of 9.35 ? 0.05.
4. The method of claim 1 in which said hair is resistant to permanent waving and said solution has a thioglycolate content of 8.5 ? 0.1 weight percent and a pH of 8.4 ? 0.1.
5. The method of claim 1 in which said hair is bleached hair and said solution has a thioglycolate content of 0.75 ? 0.05 weight percent and a pH of 7.6 ? 0.1.
6. A permanent waving composition for heat-assisted permanent waving whereby hair wetted by said composition is maintained at an elevated temperatureby a heated clamp holding hair around a roll, said composition comprising an aqueous solution selected from a group consisting of solutions having a thioglycolate content between 9.6 and 9.8 weight percent and a pH
level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH level between 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7; said ammonium thioglycolate solution being of greater strength than is used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving.
level between 7.5 and 7.7; solutions having a thioglycolate content between 8.4 and 8.6 weight percent and a pH level between 8.3 and 8.5; or solutions having a thioglycolate content between 0.70 and 0.80 weight percent and a pH of 7.5 to 7.7; said ammonium thioglycolate solution being of greater strength than is used in prior heat-assisted permanent waving and of lesser strength than is used in prior non-heat-assisted permanent waving.
7. A permanent waving composition as claimed in claim 6 comprising an aqueous solution of ammonium thioglycolate having a thioglycolate content of 9.7 ? 0.1 weight percent and a pH of 7.6 ? 0.1.
8. A permanent waving composition as claimed in claim 6 comprising an aqueous solution of ammonium thioglycolate having a thioglycolate content of 8.5 ? 0.1 weight percent and a pH of 8.4 ? 0.1.
9. A permanent waving composition as claimed in claim 6 comprising an aqueous solution of ammonium thioglycolate having a thioglycolate content of 0.75 ? 0.05 weight percent and a pH of 7.6 ? 0.1.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US432597A US3885577A (en) | 1974-01-11 | 1974-01-11 | Heat-assisted permanent waving system |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1081125A true CA1081125A (en) | 1980-07-08 |
Family
ID=23716815
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA217,744A Expired CA1081125A (en) | 1974-01-11 | 1975-01-10 | Ammonium thioglycolate solution in heat-assisted permanent waving |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US3885577A (en) |
| JP (1) | JPS50116650A (en) |
| BE (1) | BE824304A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1081125A (en) |
| CH (1) | CH610741A5 (en) |
Families Citing this family (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS54151141A (en) * | 1978-05-19 | 1979-11-28 | Sanpatsu Sangiyou Kk | First solution for warmed two bath type permanent wave and permanent wave forming method |
| US4663158A (en) * | 1979-07-02 | 1987-05-05 | Clairol Incorporated | Hair conditioning composition containing cationic polymer and amphoteric surfactant and method for use |
| US4529586A (en) * | 1980-07-11 | 1985-07-16 | Clairol Incorporated | Hair conditioning composition and process |
| DE3119634C2 (en) * | 1981-05-16 | 1986-04-17 | Wella Ag, 6100 Darmstadt | Process for the permanent deformation of hair |
| FI982397A (en) * | 1998-11-05 | 2000-05-06 | Toporiina Oy | Permanent procedure |
| DE19913673A1 (en) * | 1999-03-25 | 2000-09-28 | Rowell Haarkosmetik Gmbh | Method to perm hair; involves curling lock of hair 2-4 cm wide and 4-6 cm long about curler, wetting with perm fluid, leaving for 5-10 minutes without clamp and heating for 5-10 minutes with clamp |
Family Cites Families (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2405166A (en) * | 1942-02-11 | 1946-08-06 | Raymond Lab Inc | Process for waving hair |
| US2621280A (en) * | 1951-05-28 | 1952-12-09 | Thresa R Judd | Hair waver |
| US3583408A (en) * | 1968-06-25 | 1971-06-08 | Clairol Inc | Simultaneously deforming and strengthening hair |
| US3736944A (en) * | 1969-07-24 | 1973-06-05 | Oreal | Compositions and procedures for effecting a permanent wave or set in the hair |
-
1974
- 1974-01-11 US US432597A patent/US3885577A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
1975
- 1975-01-10 CH CH25775A patent/CH610741A5/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1975-01-10 JP JP50005507A patent/JPS50116650A/ja active Pending
- 1975-01-10 BE BE152310A patent/BE824304A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1975-01-10 CA CA217,744A patent/CA1081125A/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CH610741A5 (en) | 1979-05-15 |
| US3885577A (en) | 1975-05-27 |
| JPS50116650A (en) | 1975-09-12 |
| BE824304A (en) | 1975-05-02 |
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