US3736613A - Methods of manufacturing welted shoes - Google Patents

Methods of manufacturing welted shoes Download PDF

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Publication number
US3736613A
US3736613A US00190420A US3736613DA US3736613A US 3736613 A US3736613 A US 3736613A US 00190420 A US00190420 A US 00190420A US 3736613D A US3736613D A US 3736613DA US 3736613 A US3736613 A US 3736613A
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United States
Prior art keywords
insole
projection
board
securing
sole
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Expired - Lifetime
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US00190420A
Inventor
J Tusa
L Lawrence
S Plampton
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British Bata Shoe Co Ltd
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British Bata Shoe Co Ltd
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Publication of US3736613A publication Critical patent/US3736613A/en
Assigned to WEINBRENNER SHOE COMPANY, INC., A WI CORP. reassignment WEINBRENNER SHOE COMPANY, INC., A WI CORP. ASSIGNS THE ENTIRE INTEREST AS OF JANUARY 29, 1988. Assignors: BATA SHOE COMPANY, INC.
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B13/00—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units
    • A43B13/14—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B13/141—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units characterised by the constructive form with a part of the sole being flexible, e.g. permitting articulation or torsion
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B13/00—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units
    • A43B13/14—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units characterised by the constructive form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B13/00—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units
    • A43B13/42—Filling materials located between the insole and outer sole; Stiffening materials

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the manufacture of welted footwear.
  • the invention is based on the appreciation that whereas it is desirable for footwear to have a very flexible insole such an insole, which is the foundation of the article, must be robust enough to withstand the heavy lasting strains of the upper when using mechanical lasting machines. Thus during lasting the insole must be substantially rigid, but afterwards, when the shaperetention stresses have been set into the leather, a rigid insole is no longer necessary or even desirable.
  • a method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprises the steps of attaching a sole-shaped board to one side of a flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated projection on the other side of said insole to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, securing the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, and applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt, the sole-shaped board being detached from the insole subsequently to the securing of the projection to the upper and removed from the interior of the article.
  • a resilient filler of sponge material is provided in a space surrounded by the projection and enclosed by the outsole and the insole.
  • An upper may be provided in the lining which extends between the laterally projecting portion of the in-' sole and the inwardly pulled margin of the upper.
  • the margin of the lining is secured between the projection on the insole and the inner margin of the welt.
  • the shoe is manufactured by securing a flexible insole of light soft leather to a stiff sole-shaped board 11 by means of staples 12, the insole 10 having an extended marginal portion 10a which projects laterally beyond the periphery of the board 11.
  • a projection in the form of a T-section rib member i4 is then secured by adhesive to the lower side of the insole 10 to extend around the marginal portion of the insole and spaced inwardly of the edge thereof.
  • the edge of the stiff board 11 may be used as a guide for a machine for applying the rib member 14.
  • a shoe upper 16 is then fitted over a last (not shown) and its margin 17 is pulled over the boundary of the bottom of the last.
  • the board-insole unit l0, 11 is placed on the bottom of the last and the projecting portion 10a of the insole 10 is bent so that it is located within the interior of the shoe upper 16.
  • the shoe parts are described as in the shoe when worn, with the upper above and the sole below, though it will be appreciated that on the last the shoe is upside-down.
  • the margin 20 of a welt 19 is then applied to the margin 17 of the upper by bending the margin downwardly to lie against the margin of the upper and by stitching.
  • the operation of applying the welt 19 is preferably done by a stitching machine, which feeds in the welt and stitches together the inner margin 20 of the welt 19, the margin 17 of the upper 16, a lining 22 in the upper 16 and the rib member 14.
  • the stitches are indicated in the drawing by reference numeral 23.
  • the rib member 14 is made from rubber or a rubberlike material, and is sufficiently flexible to distort somewhat, without becoming detached from the insole 10, when the shoe is worn and to adapt to the pressures exerted on the walls of the upper and insole of the shoe by the wearers foot.
  • the sole-shaped board 11 and the staples 12 are next removed, and a resilient filling of sponge rubber 24 is then provided below the insole 10 in the space enclosed by the rib member 14.
  • the filling extends over the forepart of the shoe so as to serve as a comfortable support to the foot and an auxiliary foundation for the shoe when worn.
  • An outsole (25) is then applied to the welt and is secured thereto by lock-stitching.
  • a heel (not shown) is secured to the rear of the sole and the shoe is then removed from the last.
  • One advantage of the above-described method is that by extending the flexible insole 10 beyond the periphery of the last so that it curves upwardly as shown along the wall of the upper 16, the shape of the shoe is substantially maintained in useanda cradling effect on the foot is created, similar to that given by a genuine moccasin.
  • a method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of attaching a soleshaped board to one side of a flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated projection on the other side of said insole to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, securing the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, and applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt unit, the sole-shaped board being detached from the insole subsequently to the securing of the projection to the upper and removed from the interior of the article.
  • a method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of temporarily attaching a stiff sole-shaped support board to one side of a soft flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated flexible projection on the other side of the insole by means of an adhesive to fol low the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, stitching the projection to the in- I wardly pulled margin ofa lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, positioning a resilient filler layer in the space bounded by the projection, applying an outsole to the lasted upper-in'sole-welt unit, and detaching the sole shaped board from the insole and removing it from the interior of the article.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

A method of manufacturing welted footwear in which a shaped board is temporarily secured to one side of a flexible insole prior to the securing of a lasted upper to the insole, the flexible insole being formed with extended marginal portions which in the finished article of footwear extend up the sides of the upper so as to cradle the foot.

Description

United States Patent 1 1 Tusaet all. 1 June 5, 1973 [54] METHODS OF MANUFACTURING [56] References Cited WELTED SHOES UNITED STATES PATENTS [75] Inventors: John Tusa, Horndon-on-the-Hill;
Leslie Charles Lawrence, Stanford 377,416 2/1888 Whitney ..36/43 p Stanley Norman Plamp 2,084,874 6/1937 Sutchffe ....l2/142 D 2,275,574 3/1942 Vlzard ..36/17 R EastTlbury and England 2,537,156 1/1951 Pennell ..36/43 73 i The i i h B Sh Company 3,462,783 8/l969 Glickman ..l2/142 D Limited, London, England P'rimary ExaminerAlfred R. Guest [22] Filed: Oct. 18, 1971 Atmmey Ho1man & Stem [211 Appl. No.: 190,420
' [57] ABSTRACT Related US. Application Data A method of manufacturmg welted footwear 1n which Division 26320, April 7, 1970, abana shaped board is temporarily secured to one side ofa donedflexible insole prior to the securing of a lasted upper t0 the insole, the flexible insole being formed with ex- [30] Foreign Application priority Data tended marginal portions which in the finished article of footwear extend up the sides of the upper so as to May 14, Great Britain cradle the foot 52 U.S. c1. ..12/142 D, 36/17 R 3 Claims, 1 Drawing Figure [51] Int. Cl. ..A43b 9/00 [58] Field of-Search ..36/l7 R, 43; 12/142 D p 10a 70a 16 l\\\\\ 17 s- 1". 3 I r y W 9/ METHODS OF MANUFACTURING WELTED SHOES This application is a division of our co-pending appli- I cation Ser. No. 26,320 filed Apr. 7, 1970, now abancloned.
The present invention relates to the manufacture of welted footwear.
The invention is based on the appreciation that whereas it is desirable for footwear to have a very flexible insole such an insole, which is the foundation of the article, must be robust enough to withstand the heavy lasting strains of the upper when using mechanical lasting machines. Thus during lasting the insole must be substantially rigid, but afterwards, when the shaperetention stresses have been set into the leather, a rigid insole is no longer necessary or even desirable.
In accordance with the present invention, a method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprises the steps of attaching a sole-shaped board to one side of a flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated projection on the other side of said insole to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, securing the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, and applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt, the sole-shaped board being detached from the insole subsequently to the securing of the projection to the upper and removed from the interior of the article.
Preferably, a resilient filler of sponge material is provided in a space surrounded by the projection and enclosed by the outsole and the insole.
An upper may be provided in the lining which extends between the laterally projecting portion of the in-' sole and the inwardly pulled margin of the upper. Preferably, the margin of the lining is secured between the projection on the insole and the inner margin of the welt.
The invention will be more readily understood from the following description of a method of manufacturing a shoe given by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawing, which shows a cross-section through a shoe during one stage of the manufacture of the shoe.
Referring to the drawing, the shoe is manufactured by securing a flexible insole of light soft leather to a stiff sole-shaped board 11 by means of staples 12, the insole 10 having an extended marginal portion 10a which projects laterally beyond the periphery of the board 11.
A projection in the form of a T-section rib member i4 is then secured by adhesive to the lower side of the insole 10 to extend around the marginal portion of the insole and spaced inwardly of the edge thereof. The edge of the stiff board 11 may be used as a guide for a machine for applying the rib member 14.
A shoe upper 16 is then fitted over a last (not shown) and its margin 17 is pulled over the boundary of the bottom of the last. The board-insole unit l0, 11 is placed on the bottom of the last and the projecting portion 10a of the insole 10 is bent so that it is located within the interior of the shoe upper 16. For conve' nience of description the shoe parts are described as in the shoe when worn, with the upper above and the sole below, though it will be appreciated that on the last the shoe is upside-down.
The margin 20 of a welt 19 is then applied to the margin 17 of the upper by bending the margin downwardly to lie against the margin of the upper and by stitching. The operation of applying the welt 19 is preferably done by a stitching machine, which feeds in the welt and stitches together the inner margin 20 of the welt 19, the margin 17 of the upper 16, a lining 22 in the upper 16 and the rib member 14. The stitches are indicated in the drawing by reference numeral 23.
The rib member 14 is made from rubber or a rubberlike material, and is sufficiently flexible to distort somewhat, without becoming detached from the insole 10, when the shoe is worn and to adapt to the pressures exerted on the walls of the upper and insole of the shoe by the wearers foot.
The sole-shaped board 11 and the staples 12 are next removed, and a resilient filling of sponge rubber 24 is then provided below the insole 10 in the space enclosed by the rib member 14. The filling extends over the forepart of the shoe so as to serve as a comfortable support to the foot and an auxiliary foundation for the shoe when worn.
An outsole (25) is then applied to the welt and is secured thereto by lock-stitching.
A heel (not shown) is secured to the rear of the sole and the shoe is then removed from the last.
One advantage of the above-described method is that by extending the flexible insole 10 beyond the periphery of the last so that it curves upwardly as shown along the wall of the upper 16, the shape of the shoe is substantially maintained in useanda cradling effect on the foot is created, similar to that given by a genuine moccasin.
We claim:
l. A method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of attaching a soleshaped board to one side of a flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated projection on the other side of said insole to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, securing the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, and applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt unit, the sole-shaped board being detached from the insole subsequently to the securing of the projection to the upper and removed from the interior of the article.
2. A method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of temporarily attaching a stiff sole-shaped support board to one side of a soft flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated flexible projection on the other side of the insole by means of an adhesive to fol low the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, stitching the projection to the in- I wardly pulled margin ofa lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, positioning a resilient filler layer in the space bounded by the projection, applying an outsole to the lasted upper-in'sole-welt unit, and detaching the sole shaped board from the insole and removing it from the interior of the article.
3. A method according to claim 2, wherein the edge of the support board is used as to guide the application of the projection to the insole.
* i i l I

Claims (3)

1. A method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of attaching a sole-shaped board to one side of a flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated projection on the other side of said insole to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, securing the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, and applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt unit, the sole-shaped board being detached from the insole subsequently to the securing of the projection to the upper and removed from the interior of the article.
2. A method of manufacturing a welted article of footwear comprising the steps of temporarily attaching a stiff sole-shaped support board to one side of a soft flexible insole formed with an extended marginal portion so that the insole projects laterally beyond the board, securing an elongated flexible projection on the other side of the insole by means of an adhesive to follow the contour of the edge of the insole but spaced inwardly therefrom, stitching the projection to the inwardly pulled margin of a lasted upper and to the inner margin of a welt, positioning a resilient filler layer in the space bounded by the projection, applying an outsole to the lasted upper-insole-welt unit, and detaching the sole shaped board from the insole and removing it from the interior of the article.
3. A method according to claim 2, wherein the edge of the support board is used as to guide the application of the projection to the insole.
US00190420A 1969-05-14 1971-10-18 Methods of manufacturing welted shoes Expired - Lifetime US3736613A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB24697/69A GB1298671A (en) 1969-05-14 1969-05-14 Method of manufacturing welted shoes

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US3736613A true US3736613A (en) 1973-06-05

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US (1) US3736613A (en)
CH (1) CH512205A (en)
ES (1) ES379320A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2047687A5 (en)
GB (1) GB1298671A (en)
NL (1) NL7005917A (en)

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5222311A (en) * 1992-02-10 1993-06-29 Mark Lin Shoe with cushioning wedge
US6115944A (en) * 1998-11-09 2000-09-12 Lain; Cheng Kung Dynamic dual density heel bag
US6412193B1 (en) * 2000-06-05 2002-07-02 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6560899B2 (en) 1998-12-11 2003-05-13 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6581305B2 (en) * 2000-02-03 2003-06-24 Odyssey Shoes, Inc. Footwear with fixedly secured insole for structural support
US6601319B1 (en) * 2001-12-18 2003-08-05 Munro & Company, Inc. Article of footware including shortened midsole construction
US20040098880A1 (en) * 2002-11-21 2004-05-27 Eddie Chen Shoe having a hollow insole component
US20040205980A1 (en) * 2003-04-15 2004-10-21 Issler James E. Method and apparatus for a shoe having improved shoe construction
US20100024253A1 (en) * 2008-07-31 2010-02-04 Columbia Sportswear Company Method of making footwear
US20100175274A1 (en) * 2009-01-13 2010-07-15 Shu Tzu Ho Goodyear waterproof shoe
US20130232818A1 (en) * 2012-03-07 2013-09-12 W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. Strobel Footwear Construction
US20130305568A1 (en) * 2012-05-18 2013-11-21 Denise Chen Shoe having a welt unit

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4151327A (en) 1978-02-24 1979-04-24 Lawton William R Complex amine/silane treated cellulosic materials
US10251445B2 (en) * 2015-05-08 2019-04-09 Under Armour, Inc. Article of footwear with improved arch support

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US377416A (en) * 1888-02-07 Boot or shoe
US2084874A (en) * 1936-04-30 1937-06-22 Del Mac Shoe Process Corp Shoe and method of making same
US2275574A (en) * 1941-05-27 1942-03-10 Barbour Welting Co Beaded welting
US2537156A (en) * 1947-12-18 1951-01-09 Pennell Samuel Innersole having upwardly foldable portions
US3462783A (en) * 1967-09-06 1969-08-26 Arnold Glickman Method of making welt shoes

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US377416A (en) * 1888-02-07 Boot or shoe
US2084874A (en) * 1936-04-30 1937-06-22 Del Mac Shoe Process Corp Shoe and method of making same
US2275574A (en) * 1941-05-27 1942-03-10 Barbour Welting Co Beaded welting
US2537156A (en) * 1947-12-18 1951-01-09 Pennell Samuel Innersole having upwardly foldable portions
US3462783A (en) * 1967-09-06 1969-08-26 Arnold Glickman Method of making welt shoes

Cited By (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5222311A (en) * 1992-02-10 1993-06-29 Mark Lin Shoe with cushioning wedge
US6115944A (en) * 1998-11-09 2000-09-12 Lain; Cheng Kung Dynamic dual density heel bag
US6560899B2 (en) 1998-12-11 2003-05-13 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6581305B2 (en) * 2000-02-03 2003-06-24 Odyssey Shoes, Inc. Footwear with fixedly secured insole for structural support
US6412193B1 (en) * 2000-06-05 2002-07-02 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6601319B1 (en) * 2001-12-18 2003-08-05 Munro & Company, Inc. Article of footware including shortened midsole construction
US6810604B2 (en) * 2002-11-21 2004-11-02 Eddie Chen Shoe having a hollow insole component
US20040098880A1 (en) * 2002-11-21 2004-05-27 Eddie Chen Shoe having a hollow insole component
US20040205980A1 (en) * 2003-04-15 2004-10-21 Issler James E. Method and apparatus for a shoe having improved shoe construction
US20050223596A1 (en) * 2003-04-15 2005-10-13 Issler James E Method and apparatus for a shoe having improved shoe construction
US7020987B2 (en) * 2003-04-15 2006-04-04 Columbia Insurance Co. Method and apparatus for a shoe having improved shoe construction
US7322128B2 (en) * 2003-04-15 2008-01-29 Columbia Insurance Company Method and apparatus for a shoe having improved shoe construction
US20100024253A1 (en) * 2008-07-31 2010-02-04 Columbia Sportswear Company Method of making footwear
US20100175274A1 (en) * 2009-01-13 2010-07-15 Shu Tzu Ho Goodyear waterproof shoe
US8056260B2 (en) * 2009-01-13 2011-11-15 Golden Chang Industrial Co., Ltd. Goodyear waterproof shoe
US20130232818A1 (en) * 2012-03-07 2013-09-12 W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc. Strobel Footwear Construction
US20130305568A1 (en) * 2012-05-18 2013-11-21 Denise Chen Shoe having a welt unit

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES379320A1 (en) 1976-03-01
CH512205A (en) 1971-09-15
NL7005917A (en) 1970-11-17
GB1298671A (en) 1972-12-06
FR2047687A5 (en) 1971-03-12

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AS Assignment

Owner name: WEINBRENNER SHOE COMPANY, INC., A WI CORP., WISCON

Free format text: ASSIGNS THE ENTIRE INTEREST AS OF JANUARY 29, 1988.;ASSIGNOR:BATA SHOE COMPANY, INC.;REEL/FRAME:005002/0549

Effective date: 19880613