US373550A - bristol - Google Patents

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(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet l.

1). N. BRISTOL.

METHOD OF ATTAGHING BOSOMS TO SHIRTS.

No.- 373,550. Patented Nov. 22, 1887.

(-No Model. 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

v D. N. BRISTOL.

METHOD or ATTAGHING BOSOMS T0 SHIRTS.

No. 373,550. v Patented-Nov. 22, 1887 f'ljuzcsscs. Ihre nior;

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID N. BRISTOL, OF LANSINGBURG, ASSIGNOR OF THREE-FOUR'IHS TO W'ILBUR, KRUM & WILBUR, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

METHOD OF ATTACHI NG BOSOMS TO SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 373,550, dated November 22, 1887.

Application filed July 17, 1884. Serial No. 137,962. (X0 model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, DAVID N. BRISTOL, a resident of Lansingburg, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Attaching Bosoms to Shirts; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, that will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the bosom with the folded strip attached thereto.

Fig. 5 is a front View of a bosom attached to a shirt. Figs. 6, 7, and 8 are cross-sections taken at broken line 00 y in Fig. 5, showing in exaggerated form modifications of shirt and bosom. Fig. 9 is a similar cross-section showing the common method heretofore employed in attaching bosoms to shirts.

In the several cross section views the plait D is omitted.

A is a shirtfront to which the bosom B is to be attached.

G is a strip of fabric, which is folded longitudinally along the broken lines shown in Fig. 3 into the form shown in the several cross-section Views and in Fig. 5, one edge of the folded strip having the double folds a and b, and the other the single fold O, the raw edges of the strip being concealed between the two folded edges. The folded strip is then stitched along one edge to the edges of the bosom by a line of stitching, g, as shown in Fig. 4 and other figures. The strip 0 may be folded and stitched at the same time to the bosom by asewingmachine attachment similar to a binder. The bosom, with the attached strip, is then laid .the strip.

upon the shirt-front and attached thereto by a line of stitching, 'i, around the outer edge of (Shown in the cross-section views and in Fig. 5.) It is customary to re-enforce 5 shirt-fronts by an extra ply or thickness, d, Fig. 5.

Fig. 6 shows the arrangement of the parts when a two-ply bosom is so attached to a reenforced shirt front. In the better class of goods the bosoms are generally "inserted in instead of laid on to the shirt-front. In such cases a portion of the front corresponding in shape to the form of the bosom is cut out, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1.

Fig. 7 shows my method of inserting a twoply bosom in a shirt-front. The inner side edges of the bosom are laid upon the inner side edges of the opening in the shirt-front and the strip 0 is folded and stitched thereto 79 by the line of stitching g. The shirt-body is then folded over upon its stitched edge and the other edge of the strip 0 stitched thereto by the line of stitches i. A four-ply bosom. may be attached in the same manner, or, as shown in Fig. 8, the two inner plies of the bosom being stitched to the shirt-front and the two outer plies only to the strip 0. The division of the plies can evidently be varied as desired.

-,Fig. 9 is a cross-section showing the method in common use of attaching bosoms. The edges of the inner plies, B, and outer plies, B, of the bosom were turned in toward each other, as shown, so that their outer surfaces become contiguous to each other. The edges of the shirt-front formed by cutting-out the portion E were then inserted between said folded edges and the respective bosonrplies secured thereto by the line of stitching g. It 0 is a very difficult and slow process to fold or turn in the edges of the bosom in this manner, especially in turning the curves on a rounded bosom, and that portion of the outer bosomplies which is turned in is concealed from view and of no more value for the purpose than cheaper material would have been.

One or two of the outer plies of a shirtbosom are always made of a finer and much more expensive material than the other parts too of the shirt, and it is of great importance to the manufacturer of large quantities of shirts to utilize every part of the more expensive fabric.

By employing my improved method of at taching bosoms it is not necessary to turn in the edges of the bosom, and I can cut my bosoms much narrower than is possible by the old method and secure the same effective width of bosom.

I am aware that bosoms have been bound by a folded strip passing around the edges of the bosomand stitched thereto, and then stitching the outer edge of the binding to the shirtfront; but this method, as well as the old method last before described, necessitated the separation of the plies of the bosom along its edges by the inserted edges of the shirt-front, or a portion of the binding-strip, when the latter is employed. If all the bosom-plies were inclosed in the binding-strip, then a portion of the strip would project between the bosom and shirt-front edge when the same are united and render it impossible to secure the edge of the shirt-front, exceptby a clumsy and uncouth seam.

By stitching the folded strip 0 along one edge to the edge of the bosom and outside of all the bosom-plies I can arrange the bosomplies smoothly one upon another and use any desired number of plies without causing them to full up or wrinkle in stitching the parts together. I also secure four thicknesses or plies of the folded strip over the raw edges of the bosom-plies, instead of half that number, as when the raw edges are inserted between the folds-of the strip, which prevents the impression of the edges and seam from showing through the covering-strip when laundered; and this result enables me to widen the folded strip indefinitely to secure the effect of a wide bosom without widening the bosom itself,

thereby saving in material, as before exentire edge of the latter, except on its upper side, and afterward stitching the other folded edge of the strip to the shirt-front, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 28th day of June, 1884.

DAVID N. BRISTOL.

\Vitnesses:

GEO. A. MosHER, W. H. HOLLISTER, J r.

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