US372781A - Poubth to leah v - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) v

- G. H. ABRAMS.

- SHIRT. No. 372,781.

{IO more accurately to the form at theplaces which- I larg'ingand contracting the neck an GEORGE E. ABnAMs, or BROOKLY v 'FOURTH TO LEAH v.0.

SHI

PATENT OFFIC in, NEW YORK, Ass cnon, O F oun- NAUL, or SAME PLACE.

srncrncni ron semi-11 5ml. of Letters PatentNo. 372,181, dated November 8, 1887.

Application flled April 19, 1887.

Serial no; 235.309. (No model.)

To ZZ whom it may concern: 4 a

Beit known that I, GEORGE HLABRAMS, of Brooklyn, Kings county, in theStateof New York, have inveiited a certain new. and useful 5 Improvement in Shirts, of which the following is a specification.-

The objects of the invention are to provide for raising and lowering the points of attach- 1 ment of the collar; alsoto cause the shirt to fit are ordinarilysomewhat hollowed in front of 1 the-shoulders, to avoid bending, or, technically, breaking, the bosom when the wearer sits or 7 otherwise hollows the chest, to provide for en- .d adjacent parts of the shirt,v so that one size may be adjusted to widelyrdifl'ering sizes of men, and also to provide passages through' which the hands maybe convenientlyinserted within the shirt at thefronte The neckband is provided at the back with a series of buttonholes, When the neckband is contracted at theback by shiftingthe stud into different button-holes to fit a small neck, the peculiar shape of the yokes andadjacent parts favors the change. The neck'band is laid out and cut. from the plane material i-n'a form approximating. the letter V, but-with a-curve of small radius at the apex, which is at the front, and with the sides curved slightly in the-reverse direction. This. latter curve provides that the ends or extreme .back portions of the neckband are rounded downward. The upper edge of-thesurplus material is, by the curvature which I give the back portions'of th'e neckband, kept down out of sight. I provide for the variations in size by a double series of button-holes in the neckbandon each side of the opening e at theback. -A stud is inserted through any 40 two ofthese, according to the sizeof theneck whioh is to be 'atched'. I provide'onthc in-' side of then'eckbahd at the'front, iuthe'apei: of the V shape referred to, a flap, whi oh per forms important functions. 2 It folds downward. v on the inside close to the Tne'ckband'. It is proirided with a button-hole, which, whenthe flap is in thatposition, coincides with the but ton-hole in the neckband proper, and'the stud at the front of the neckband is inserted through functions;'but when, in consequence'oftheapproach of winter, or for any other reason, the wearer chooses to have his shirt higher at the front, he removes the stud 1 and unfolds the flap, causing it to project above the neckband, He then inserts the stud through the buttonhole in the flap alone, and uses it to perform theordina'ry functions of the front stud -that is, to hold the front ends of the collar'and necktie. In this condition the ordinary button-hole at the front of the neck-band remains idle. A similar but longer help is provided at the back 1 of the neckband on each side of the opening, provided, like the neckband, with a series of button-holes. When it is desired to wear the collar lowat the back, these back flaps are folded down below the neckb'an'd and the stud is put through both. When, on the'contrary,

it is desired, as on some occasions of special dress, to wear the collar high at the back, the 7c back flaps are opened upward and the stud" is put through them, leaving the button-holes *in the neckband unused. 4 p

I employ a piece, technicallydenominated a yoke, on each shoulder, filling the space between the upper edge in .the front,inc1'ud.-' inga portion of the bosom and the back.,- I make these pieces wider than ordinal and peculiarly curve the front and back edges. The conditions are such that the front edge of 80, the y'okeis farther forward than usual. I correspondingly out down the front of the shirt, but with a slightly difi'ering curve. This gives an advantage very important under some circumstances. In shifting the frontseam of the yoke from its ordinary position on .the center of the shoulder to a position eonsiderably forward of that lineit avoidss'ub ectingtheshoulder to the pressure of the seam. The changed conditions also givea further advantage in al-' lowing" the 'yoke to'fit well upon'th'eshoulder and aiding to make the parts lie smoothly, whether the back is let outsoj as to match a large neckor taken up sovas to match a small one.', In the act of taking up the shirt-by contracting the neckband, inthe man-ncr explained, -the yoke on each shoulder is gradually shifted over. 'It is inclined toward the front position when the shirt is I adjusted for 59 both. 9 Inthis conditionthe'fiap performs'no fthelargest'neckg It isinthe central position I rhshirts. Each is capable of being let out or taken up t'woinches. '1 cut the armhole in .thebody lower than-usual at the lower edge,

so that there is the same'opening as "us arfcr the arm and only the ordinary amount of Q gathering of the sleeve, notwithstanding. the;-

I fact that the upperedge of the armhole is somewhat lowered. I provide an opening'j inthe body ofthe shirtat the fronted-each side, which is'protected or covered by there-4 enforce,- so that it makes a convenient means for the introduction of the hand to adjn'stthe.

studs or for any other purpose, thejllHQtifdh, of the re-enforcewith the main bodyfbeihg left open a sufficicnt spaceto allow the hand- .25 to be thrust up from below. The. accompanying drawings form a part of this specification, and represent what "I 'conslider the best means of carrying out the invention. I l

Figure 1 is a front view of the shirt. In. this View thQ flaps at thefront'and back of the neckband. are turned do'wnout of use. Fig. 2 'is afront View of a portion. In this view the flaps are tu'rnedup in position for use. 5 3-is a sectionon the linear min Fig. 1.

' Fig. 4 represents the neckba'nd in the for-in in which it' is cut from the plane material;

alone, before being sewed into the shirt. Fig I 5 is a vertical section through; the neckband o at the back. The condition of ;:the parts .corfresponds-to Fig. 1, but is on a. larger scale."

, Similar letters of reference indicate correspending-parts in all the figureswhere they-- occur.

A is the muslin body brine frontoi' 'a-shirt.

Bis the bosom}. which I will assume to be of two ormore thieknesses of-linen."

, C C arereenforce pieces of muslin reaching down thefronteaeh side o'fthe bosom, as usual. D is the hack, andE-LE are the sleeves. These parts may be cut and applied together in 'the ordinary,manner,'-- except in certain points near the top, which/will "now be. described..,

M is a neckband, whichei tends around in 1 asingle piece and is long'e'nough to-encompass thelargest neck. The back of the neck; I hand is proyided..,with a clouble series of button-holes, m, any one of which'wil l' receiyefh h 6o ordinary stud. The arrangement allows the' I .neckband to be let out or taken up within widelimits.

PjiS. the stud which isinsertedin'the front buttoa hole and" performs its 'usual functions. .oficofifihing the collar." (Not represented.) Qis the stud which serves at the back,,by

.;e ds sna1 eve'r the st fton'holesm asto contract the nechband to less:

being inserted in any of the button-holes m,-

what-form.

to hold the shirt together at the top, and also to hold the collar at the back.

-I cut the neckband with a quick curve at the front. It is cut from a plane piece of muslin in a form approximating thatof the letter V;-

but instead ofa sharp angleat the'apex it "is oundedas small radius, and instead of straight arms; they'are curved. slightly outward, ,the"properiamount being allowed for the seams on'each edge. When my eckband is sewed in place on the upper edge of the shirt,

it lies nearlyiiflr lilie-planejof the bosom at the tronainstead etprojecting.forryard, in the or-- diua'ry gnajnnen-at a considerable angle. The

curvature. at the sides and-back, when applied 'on theproperl cutyoke, insures thatthe back pressed. and concealed whenc :Q is inserted through such but- .than'Ti-t'sfull-capacity.

G G aeyokes of double muslin, which applyonf theshoulders and perform the usual -functions,modificd and improved by the peculiar form which I give to theseparts and to the adjacent parts. I make the yokes wider Tromthe front edge to the back edge than is common. When the neck is let outto ihs largest size, the yokes extend forward of them I ordinary positions. henthe neckis contracted by shifting'the stud Q successively into different button-holes m, soas to fit a smaller andsmallerneck, it-will usually be the case that the breadth of the shirt at the shoulders shouldbe' correspondingly reduced. This is accomplished by my form of the yokes which,

as-the neck is contracted, shift gradually over from the froht to the back of the shoulders.

lent the upper edge of thehosom B and of the front A and. rte-enforces C so low, or so far forward, that when the neck is the most contracted and the yokes are. shifted {overbackward to their greatest extent the front edgeof the y'okeis still fo'rward'of the central line -of-the shoulder. This insures that the slight ridgeformedby-thescam shall never bear disagreeablyjon the shoulder.

The upper edge ofhijlB; and G is cut on a curve, the middle of the seam being higher up the shoulder than; either :end. The adjacent edgeof-theyoke isalso curved. The fact that this-seam is always forward of the top of the shoulder allows me to match the shirt to the form at this point very nicely byho1lowing it, if desired-thatis to say, making the curvature .of the top of the front A B O straighter than-the adjacent edge of the yoke G. Most forms are a little hollow in the front, of the shoulder, and it is ordinarily preferable .45 k thisseam hellow;.h h,;if. it is, desired.

in any case, the parts "can be out with eixiactiy the same curve on one as'on the other, which will cause the shirt to :lie flat, or they can be out with. a greater? curvature. on the edge of nessalphgth-isfline adapted to match to a cor- I30 the partsyA B 0 than on the adjacentedge of theyoke G,-' in'which case there will he a fall'- Of Icourse, when the-shirt is thus nsedh'ign- ,ball or for any reason,

5 into different button-holes m, so as to-take up "and let out the. neckbaud.

-' My shirt is self-adjusting with regard'to the width of the shoulders;- When the back-of the eck is let out to wear'a large collar,the man re who requires this will usually be correspondinglybroad-shouldered. With; my shirt the same act of letting out the-backof the bandxto ,enlarge'the neck will also let the y'okes move forward. and outward and correspondingly :5 broaden the shoulders of the shirt; T is a flap at the front of; the n'eekband, pro-.

vided with a; button-hole, t, whic -{when the flap is folded backward and downward within the neck'band, coincides in position with the When the stud Pis ordinary button-hole. inserted through both the button'holes, laid ioneupon the-othenihe shirt is used inthe ordinary manner, as above described. 'When' it is desired to make theshirt higher in the.

neck at the front, the stud is removed and the flap T unfolded and extended upward. Now

the stud P is inserted in the button-hole t alone, and stands an inch-(more orless) above the other button-hole, thus adding correspondingly to the height of the neck of. the shirt.

neck,it calls fora smaller collar, which must be provided.

' U' are corresponding but'longer flaps provided near the ends of the neckband. When the shirt isin use, these flaps U come at the back of ihe'nec-k. They may be each provided with the same number ofbutton holes as the ;g adjaceritportio'ns of the neckband to which up theyare attached. These flaps U are joined to the neckband along the straight line U.

They lie smoothly against theneckoaud when they are folded down out of use. They lie smoothly extended when-they are unfolded or caused to project upward Under ordinary conditionsthese flaps are folded down. In this position they serve the important end of defending the back of the neck'of the wearer against the pressure of the stud. l/V-ith-ordinary shirts the pressure of the stud against a small surface on the neck is frequently a source of annoyance. With my shirtone of the flaps Uis temporarily unfolded, the Stllfl'..Q is in-. r serted in the proper hole, m,

I then the flap U is folded downward-and remains in that positionas a protection between thestud and'the neck of the wearer. Thus the flap U--on .the end of the neckband which-lies within the nary conditions.

by each of the flaps U when,'in dressing for a r the collar higher than usual at hebaeie. In

:preparing therefor the flaps. 'U are unfolded and extend upward, and the stud Qis inserted through-theproper button-holes, rain thefiaps point, the two openings at and 0 being widely.

-r2= other performs a useful function under ordiit is desired to: wear alone. In this position the stud performs the same functi0n,as before,of holding" the back of the neckband together at the proper size, and also=of holding the back of the collar, (not shown;) but'it, holds the collar higher than usual. g

Instead of sewingthe lower edge of the re enforce pieces 0 to the adjacent surface of the frontbody, A, quite across, I leave a space unsewed at G large enough to receive the hand and wrist of the wearer. I cut a-slit,-a," in the front A on each side of the'bosom in the position represented; "The hand may be inserted 8c within the bosom to an in adj usting the studs, or forany other purpose, by thrusting it upward under the lower edge of the re-enforce O, and-then inward throughthe slit a. The arrangement ofkthe apertures insuresthatthe- 5 personiis covered and protected from sight. and from cold. y

My yokes E are extended out farther over the shoulders than ordinary yokes. This brings the upper partof the junction of the 9' sleevc'with the body lower by auinch (more .or less) t-hanwith theordinary'shirt. "I cor respondingly lower the bottom of the junction .of the sleeve with the body. Thus I obtain- .the same size of armhole and the same liberty for, movement of .thearmin-the shirt as 1 with the ordinary construction, but at a lower level. This is an advantage, in allowing the junction ofthe sleeve to th'ebody tojbe drawn up by successive contractions of the neck with- 00 out involving difficulty. I

. 'I'claim as my invent-ion d -1. Ina" shirt, the folding flaps T U, provided with-button-hol'esj u, adapted to receive the studs P Q, either inthe foldedor pr/ tended condition, and to attach the collarat correspondingly high or low points, as herein specified.

2. In a shirthaving aseries of buttonhole's, m, arranged as shown, the neckba'nd'M.hav- IIIO ing its ends curved downward, so as to'beconcealed when taken up,in combination with the yokes G,'extending forward beyond the center lineof the shoulder and the correspond- 4 .ing fr0 ntparts,B C, and sleeves E, all arranged I15 to serve as herein specified.

3. In a'shirt having a .main front part,-A, and a re-enforce, 0, applied as a partial coveri'ng therefor, a hand-hole, a, in the main part arranged behind the re-enforce, so as to be covered. thereby, in combination with apar-' tial seamor junctionmfithelnweredge of O with A, so as'to leave a handrholeC, at that:

removed, as he'rein specified. In testimony whereof I-have hereunto set my hand, at New York city,this 14thdayof April, 1887, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses I i GEORGE H. ABRaMs/ Witnesses: 1

I H. A. JOHNSTONE BOYLE.

- is herebycertified that; in Letters Patent'No. 372,781, graiufie'd November 8, 1887, upon the application of George H. Abrams, of .Brooklyn, New York, for en improvemerit in Shirts, an error appears requiring correction, as follows: On page 1, line 16," .in the grant, the grant is xnade to- George H. Abrams, and Leah V. NeuLtlleir or as si gns, whereas it should have been made to George H, Abidm's Lech 0'; Neal, their heirs or assigns, the word heirs having been omitted in the Original grant; and that the Letters Patent should be read.- with this correction therein that the sainelinay, conform to the record of the case in the Patent Oifice. Signed, countersigned, and sealed this20th'day of'December, A. D. 1887.. I [SEAL] D. L, HAWKINS, I

v Acting Secretary of the. Interior. Countersigned: f

BENTON J. HALL, 1

Commissioner of Patents.

Correction Letters Patent N 0. 372,781.

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