US3640096A - Knitting methods - Google Patents

Knitting methods Download PDF

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Publication number
US3640096A
US3640096A US840004A US3640096DA US3640096A US 3640096 A US3640096 A US 3640096A US 840004 A US840004 A US 840004A US 3640096D A US3640096D A US 3640096DA US 3640096 A US3640096 A US 3640096A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
beds
pair
needles
wales
knitting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US840004A
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English (en)
Inventor
Max William Betts
Frank Robinson
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Akzo Nobel UK PLC
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Courtaulds PLC
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Publication date
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Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3640096A publication Critical patent/US3640096A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/30—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B7/32—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration tubular goods

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a knitting method, and is concerned in particular with a method of knitting a jersey or similar garment comprising a body and sleeves, of both waist length and full body length, each of which will be referred to hereinafter as a jersey.
  • the Dubied DFF machine has two second pairs of beds (referred to in the Manual as auxiliary" beds) which are mounted to define an inverted V-shape above the other beds (referred to in the Manual as main beds).
  • the DFF machine has auxiliary beds intended for the knitting of narrow selvage strips along the edges of a fabric.
  • Miniature garments e.g., for dolls
  • the knitting of full-size garments necessitates a few rather elementary modifications of the machine.
  • the DFF auxiliary beds carry only sufiicient needles to knit the loops of a narrow border of a garment, for example, needles.
  • the auxiliary beds of the DFF machine are enlarged.
  • the main beds of the Dubied DFF machine contain needles, each having a slot to receive the hook of an opposite needle so that a loop can be transferred from a slotted needle to the opposite needle.
  • These needles also have a cranked configuration which avoids shogging or racking (i.e., lateral movement of thebeds) to obtain the required needle alignment.
  • Providing such needles and associated carn means for the auxiliary beds makes it possible to transfer stitches automatically between the main and auxiliary beds.
  • the auxiliary beds are pivoted on a transverse bar so that they can be swung to lift the needles clear of the knock-over bits of the main beds during lateral movement. Lateral movement, to efi'ect narrowing, is accomplished by means of a pawl on the cam carriage, and may be carried out to the extent of almost half the length of the main beds, for each pair of auxiliary beds.
  • DFF machine and its components are simply exemplary of machines and mechanisms which may be used to practice the invention and that the invention, which is concerned with a method of knitting a garment or substantial part thereof in one integral piece by a new sequence of knitting steps, may be performed on machines of other manufacture.
  • a method of knitting a jersey on a modified fiat bar machine comprises tubular knitting a body portion on needles of the first pair of beds and tubular knitting a sleeve portion on needles of each of the second pairs of beds, arranging the body and sleeve portions adjacent to each other, traversing all the needles carrying stitches with a single yarn carrier so as to join the tubular portions, and during subsequent knitting, before at least some of the courses, reducing the number of wales of the body portion and/or the wales of the sleeve portions adjacent the edges thereof which are beside the body portion by transversing their stitches to needles carrying adjacent wales, and moving the second beds laterally inwardly by a number of needle pitches equal to the number of wales reduced.
  • tubular knitting means a method in which knitting with yarn from one yarn carrier takes place on only one side of the machine in each traverse, and on completion of each traverse knitting is commenced in the reverse direction, using the same yarn carrier, only on the other side of the machine.
  • a method of carrying out tubular knitting is described for example on pages 59 and 60 of the Dubied Manual. It is, of course, possible to employ a second yarn carrier and to knit simultaneously on both sides of the machine as described in German Pat. No. 72,145 and U.S. Pat. No. 471,696 of even date, now abandoned.
  • FIGS. 12 to 14 of the drawings accompanying the aforesaid specification of our U.S. Pat. application Ser. No. 761,729, dated 23rd Sept. 1968, show various ways in which the wales can be reduced to narrow the jersey after the joining of the tobular portions.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a method of knitting a jersey, which, in comparison with the method described in the aforesaid specification, enables the employment of a simplified method of shaping the upper part of the jersey.
  • the method according to the invention may be performed on a modified flat bar machine, it may also be perfonned on a simplified form of such a machine comprising only one pair of opposed second, that is auxiliary beds laterally movable with respect to the first pair of beds.
  • both the modifiedflat bar machine and its simplified form will be referred to hereinafter as a machine of the kind described, the references to the second pair of beds meaning either one of the pairs of second beds of a modified flat bar machine, or the single pair of second beds of the simplified form of the modified flat bar machine.
  • a method of knitting a jersey on a machine of the kind described comprises tubular knitting two sleeve portions and a body portion united by a fourth'tubular portion forming the upper portion of the jersey and fashioning the fourth tubular portion in wales which are an extension of, or are intended to extend into, the body portion of the jersey.
  • a jersey may be knitted by the method of this invention starting either at the lower end of the jersey or at the upper end.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the steps of tubular knitting two sleeve portions and a body'portion, a first sleeve portion being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds, the second sleeve portion being'knitted on needles of the first pair of beds and the body portion being knitted intennediate the sleeve portions with the wales of a part of the body portion adjacent to the first sleeve portion being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remainder of the wales of the body portion being knitted on needles of the first pair of beds, tubular knitting a fourth tubular portion on needles of the first pair of beds and needles of the second pair of beds in order to unite the sleeve portions and the body portion and form the upper portion of the jersey, and during knitting of the fourth tubular portion, before at least some of the courses, reducing the number of wales of the part of the fourth tubular portion
  • half the wales of the body portion are knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remaining wales are knitted on needles of the first pair of beds.
  • a jersey which is wale-fashioned in the center of the front and back parts of the body portion may then be knitted.
  • alternate fashioning operations on the same side of the machine are performed by the transfer of stitches in opposite lateral directions.
  • one fashioning operation on one side of the machine is performed by transferring a stitch on a needle of the first pair of beds to a needle carrying an adjacent wale on one of the second pair of beds
  • the next fashioning operation on that side of the machine is performed by transferring a stitch on a needle of the same one of the second pair of beds to a needle carrying an adjacent wale on the same one of the first pair of beds.
  • the body and sleeve portions must be closely adjacent to each other, for example there should not be a gap of more than one needle pitch between the body portion and each sleeve portion. This may be achieved by widening the sleeve portions and/or body portion during the separate knitting of these portions, so that immediately prior to joining the sleeve and body portions they are closely adjacent to each other.
  • the sleeve portions may be widened at any time during the knitting by needle introduction.
  • the method according to the invention comprises tubular knitting the upper portion of the jersey with the wales of a part of this tubular portion including one shoulder region of the garment being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remainder of the wales of this tubular portion including the other shoulder region of the jersey being knitted on needles of the first pair of beds, fashioning this tubular portion of the jersey by needle introduction in regions of the beds where the wales of the tubular portion pass from the first pair of beds to the second pair of beds, and moving one pair of beds laterally with respect to the other pair of beds by a number of needle pitches equal to the number of needles introduced and finally tubular knitting a body portion and two sleeve portions as extensions of the first mentioned tubular portion.
  • half the wales of the first mentioned tubular portion are knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remaining wales are knitted on needles of the first pair of beds.
  • the wales of the sleeve portions and the continuation of these wales in the first-mentioned tubular portion may be narrowed at any time during the knitting by transferring inwardly the outermost stitches of these parts of the jersey.
  • the Dubied DFF machine is a flat bar knitting machine with auxiliary beds movable with respect to the main beds of the machine is known.
  • the purpose of the auxiliary beds in this known machine is to hold small numbers of stitches at the marginal portions of a garment panel and the beds thus contain only a small number of needles, for example, six needles.
  • the auxiliary beds that is the beds of the second pair of beds, contain enough needles to hold all the stitches of one course of a sleeve portion of the garment as well as stitches of a part of a course of the body portion of the garment.
  • the number of needles in each of the second beds would therefore normally be in excess of 30 needles.
  • FIG. 3 or FIG. 4 of the drawings of the aforesaid specification designate the rear and front beds of a first pair of needle beds
  • the numerals 3, 4 designate the rear and front beds of a second pair of beds
  • the numerals 5, 6, designate the rear and front beds of another second pair of beds.
  • the beds 3 and 4 and the beds 5 and 6 are movable laterally with respect to the beds 1 and 2.
  • Each of the beds is shown as comprising a plurality of needles 7. It will be understood, however, that the number of needles shown is purely diagrammatic in order to simplify the drawing, and does not in any way relate to the number of needles that would be used in the knitting of a jersey.
  • the numeral 8 designates a reciprocating head comprising cams (not shown) to cooperate with butts (not shown) on the needles, and the numerals 9-11 designate reciprocating yarn carriers.
  • FIG. 1 shows three tubular portions 12, 13 and 14 being knitted simultaneously on the machine.
  • the tubular portions 12 and 14 are intended to form the sleeves of a jersey, and the tubular portion 13 is intended to form the body portion of the jersey.
  • the sleeve portion 12 is being knitted with yarn supplied by the yam carrier 9 on needles of the beds 3 and 4,
  • the sleeve portion 14 is being knitted with yarn supplied by the yarn carrier 11 on needles of the beds 1 and 2.
  • the body portion 13 is being knitted with yarn supplied by a carrier 10 partly on needles of the beds 3 and 4 and partly on needles of the beds 1 and 2.
  • the yarn carrier 10 and one of the yarn carriers 9 and 11 are then taken out of service and tubular knitting is continued employing the remaining yarn carrier, for example the yarn carrier 9, so as to join the three tubular portions l2, l3 and 14.
  • the remaining yarn carrier for example the yarn carrier 9
  • FIG. 2 shows the continuation of the knitting in the form of a single tube 15 (forming the upper portion of the jersey) using yarn supplied by the yarn carrier 9.
  • Fashioning of the upper portion of the jersey is effected by reducing the wales of the original body portion by transferring the innermost stitch on the bed 1 or 2 to the needle carrying the innermost stitch on the bed 3 or 4, respectively, as indicated by the arrow X in FIG. 2, or by transferring the innermost stitch on the bed 3 or 4 to the needle carrying the innermost stitch on the bed 1 or 2, respectively, as indicated by the arrow Y in FIG. 2.
  • the innermost stitch 16 on the needles of the bed 4 is transferred to the needle 17 of the bed 2.
  • the beds 5 and 6 do not enter into the knitting of the jersey and may, therefore, be omitted from the machine. if however, it is desired to commence the knitting of the tubular portions 12, 13 and 14 with portions of ribbed knitting, the pair of beds 5 and 6 may be used for this purpose.
  • a method according to claim 1 comprising tubular knitting two sleeve portions and a body portion, a first sleeve portion being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds of the machine, the second sleeve portion being knitted on needles of the first pair of beds of the machine and the body portion being knitted intermediate the sleeve portions with the wales of a part of the body portion adjacent to the first sleeve portion being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remainder of the wales of the body portion being knitted on needles of the first pair of beds, tubular knitting a fourth tubular portion on needles of the first pair of beds and needles of the second pair of beds in order to unite the sleeve portions and the body portion and form the upper portion of the jersey, and during knitting of the fourth tubular portion, before at least some of the courses, reducing the number of wales of the part of the fourth tubular portion which is joined to the body portion by transferring the stitches of these wales to needles
  • a method according to claim 5 comprising tubular knitting the upper portion of the jersey with the wales of a part of this tubular portion including one shoulder region of the garment being knitted on needles of the second pair of beds and the remainder of the wales of this tubular portion including the other shoulder region of the jersey being knitted on needles of the first pair of beds, fashioning this tubular portion of the jersey by needle introduction in regions of the beds where the wales of the tubular portion pass from the first pair of beds to the second pair of beds, and moving one pair of beds laterally with respect to the other pair beds by a number of needle pitches equal to the number of needles introduced, and finally tubular knitting a body portion and two sleeve portions as extensions of the first mentioned tubular portion.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
US840004A 1968-07-22 1969-07-08 Knitting methods Expired - Lifetime US3640096A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB34855/68A GB1271542A (en) 1968-07-22 1968-07-22 Knitting methods

Publications (1)

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US3640096A true US3640096A (en) 1972-02-08

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US840004A Expired - Lifetime US3640096A (en) 1968-07-22 1969-07-08 Knitting methods

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US (1) US3640096A (xx)
BE (1) BE736371A (xx)
BR (1) BR6910744D0 (xx)
DE (1) DE1936703A1 (xx)
ES (1) ES369737A1 (xx)
FR (1) FR2013467A1 (xx)
GB (1) GB1271542A (xx)
LU (1) LU59140A1 (xx)
NL (1) NL6911239A (xx)

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5943884A (en) * 1997-02-27 1999-08-31 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Knitted suit having a double layer structure and knitting method therefor
US10145042B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2018-12-04 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10179960B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-01-15 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10368590B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
US10415164B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10912340B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-09 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11142854B2 (en) 2018-10-03 2021-10-12 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02229248A (ja) * 1989-03-03 1990-09-12 Shima Seiki Seisakusho:Kk 筒状編地の編成方法

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1849461A (en) * 1929-12-02 1932-03-15 Kramer Jozephus Antoniu Petrus Method for knitting pants or like articles of clothing
US2004699A (en) * 1932-05-13 1935-06-11 Krautkopf Simon Method of knitting tubular fabric
US3167938A (en) * 1961-08-18 1965-02-02 Dubied & Cie Sa E Method for narrowing plain stitch or rib fabric on a flat knitting machine

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1849461A (en) * 1929-12-02 1932-03-15 Kramer Jozephus Antoniu Petrus Method for knitting pants or like articles of clothing
US2004699A (en) * 1932-05-13 1935-06-11 Krautkopf Simon Method of knitting tubular fabric
US3167938A (en) * 1961-08-18 1965-02-02 Dubied & Cie Sa E Method for narrowing plain stitch or rib fabric on a flat knitting machine

Cited By (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5943884A (en) * 1997-02-27 1999-08-31 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Knitted suit having a double layer structure and knitting method therefor
US10368590B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
US11484068B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2022-11-01 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
US10912340B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-09 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10415164B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10604873B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2020-03-31 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10179960B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-01-15 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10920345B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-16 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US11118288B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-09-14 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11225735B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2022-01-18 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11486068B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2022-11-01 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10145042B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2018-12-04 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11560654B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2023-01-24 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11788217B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2023-10-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US11142854B2 (en) 2018-10-03 2021-10-12 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB1271542A (en) 1972-04-19
DE1936703A1 (de) 1970-01-22
LU59140A1 (xx) 1969-12-02
ES369737A1 (es) 1971-04-01
FR2013467A1 (xx) 1970-04-03
BR6910744D0 (pt) 1973-01-18
BE736371A (xx) 1969-12-31
NL6911239A (xx) 1970-01-26

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