US361432A - Feank p - Google Patents

Description

(1V0 Model.) P. P. MARSH.

BUSTLE.

N. PEIERS, Phul0 Lill1cgmphun Washington, D. c

UN TED STATES 'FRANK I. MAR-SH, NEW YORK, N. Y.

PATENT OFFICE,

BUSTLE.

SPECIFICATION forming partof Letters Patent No. 361,432, dated April 19, 1887. Application filed August 21,1886. Serial No. 211,542. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I, FRANK P. MARSH, of the city, county, and State of New York, have inlvented anew and useful Improvementin Stuffed Pipe-Bustles; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying or panniers for ladies wear which are constructed with a series of parallel tubes or pipings stuffed with the hair of animals or other suitable'material.

The pipings are usually parallel to the waistband, the piping nearest the band being the shortest and the remainder increasing gradually in length in proportion to their distance from the first. These pipings are obtained by stitching together facing-pieces of muslin or other thin fabric in parallel lines at regular intervals alternately wide and narrow, the wide intervals being stuffed to form the pipings,and the intermediate narrow intervals left flat. Edging-strips of suitable material are fastened to the ends of the pipings and provided with eyelets and elastic cords,by means of which the ribbed piece composed of the stuffed pipings and intermediate recesses is drawn into a curved form, the elastic lacing constituting the chords of the arch.

Heretofore in practice the inner and outer facing-pieces, by the union of which the pipings are constructed, have been formed each of two separate strips out in anangular or tapering form and stitched together by a seam, which in the finished bustle extends centrally both in the inner and outer facing-pieces from top to bottom thereof at a right angle to the length of the pipings, and which intersects trai'isversely each and every piping at about the middle of its length. This central seam is not only objectionable because of its appearance on the outer face of the bustle, but more particularly and practically becauseit is an element of weakness in that the longer pipings, being exposed to great strain when the bustle is doubled up, are very liable to burst open at this transverse joint or seam, and great annoyance and loss ensue to the manufacturer by reason of the necessity of replacing the broken bustles.

The object of my invention is to overcome this defect and to remove this source of loss and annoyance to the manufacturer and wearer, and

to obtain a stiffer as well as more durable bustle than is possible with the old form of construction. This object is accomplished by making the outer and inner facing or covering pieces for the pipings each of a single piece of fabric unbroken from end to end to within a short distance of the waistband,and having a central narrow. strip or tongue in the upper side of each, projecting centrally therefrom between two darts or wedge-shaped notches extending inward far enough to embrace the fourth or fifth piping from the band in the finished'bustle. The outer curved edges of the two darts in each piece are drawn together and the tongue folded longitudinally over them and all stitched together, whereby the upper edge next to the band is so contracted as to cause the piece, when spread open, to present a transverse as well as a longitudinal curve. \Vhen the two single pieces thus shaped are superimposed and stitched together, the long pipings formed thereby below the header concavo-convex portion of the bustle are produced free from any transverse break or seam, and the transverse seam in the head is made doubly secure, so that the pipings admit of being stuffed very much more compactly and harder than has heretofore been possible,producing a much stiffer and more shapely and desirable bustle than any now in use.

In theaccompanying drawings,Figure1illustrates one of the single outer and inner pieces or facings for the improved bustle before it is cut. Fig. 2 illustrates the same piece when the darts have been cut out therefrom. Fig. 3illustrates the same when the edges of the dart have been drawn together, overlapped by the tongue, and stitched together. Fig. 4is aside view of the finished bustle; Fig. 5, a perspective view thereof; and Fig. 6 a horizontal section,on an enlarged scale,in line x 00 of Fig. 3, illustrating the form of the re-enforced scam in upper end of the facing-pieces.

A represents one of I the two single facingpieces for the improved bustle, the second piece being an exact counterpart of the first. From the upper edge of each of the two similar pieces, A, darts G G are cut out, one on each side of a narrow parallel-sided tongue, D, left between them in the middle of said upper edge, as shown in Fig. 2. The curved outer edges, e e, of these darts or wedge-shaped notches O G are then brought together. The one is laid upon the other,and the tongue D is folded longitudinally over the superimposed edges to embrace them and then stitched down thereon longitudinally, as shown in Fig. 3. By this means the upper end of each facing'piece is narrowed, and at the same time dished or made to curve longitudinally as well as transversely. The two facing-pieces thus fashioned are superimposed and united in the customary manner by means of parallel lines of stitehes,forming tubes or pipings E E E E, separated by narrow intervals B B. These pipingsE Eare then stuffed very hard with any suitable stuffing material, so as to cause them to assume a cylindrical form of about an inch (more or less) in diameter. By reason of the improved construction above described the long lower pipings, E E, constituting the body of the bustle, are seamless and unbroken from end to end, since the central transverse re-enforced seam, F, which results from the cutting of the darts G 0, extends only across the shorter upper pipings, E E, forming the head or crown of the bustle.

The re-enforcement of the seam F by the tongue D imparts thereto the strength found requisite to enable the pipings when stuffed hard to resist the strain produced thereon in bending them.

The comparatively firm yet elastic and pliable arched and curved bustle thus constructed, having seamless pipings in the body thereof, is finished and laced in the customary manner for adjustment and attachment to the person of the wearer.

Vhat I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A piped bustle made of alower section or body embracing a series of long unbroken and seamless stuffed tubes curved in their length. in combination with an upper section or head curved or arched both transversely and longitudinally, and embracing a series of shorter parallel stuffed tubes bisected and centrally jointed with a re-enforeed scam, in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

2. A bustle made of two pieces of muslin, each provided with a tongue on its upper edge interposed between two angular notches or darts,and overlapping the united edges of said darts, substantially in the man ner and for the purpose herein set forth.

In testimony whereofl have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

FRANK P. MARSH.

\Vilnesses:

A. N. JESBIGRA, S. A. S'rAvuRs.

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