US3512378A - Lace-knitting machine - Google Patents

Lace-knitting machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US3512378A
US3512378A US652577A US65257767A US3512378A US 3512378 A US3512378 A US 3512378A US 652577 A US652577 A US 652577A US 65257767 A US65257767 A US 65257767A US 3512378 A US3512378 A US 3512378A
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Prior art keywords
selector
thread
bars
threads
machine
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US652577A
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English (en)
Inventor
Marius Felicien Bosse-Platiere
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Dognin Sa soc
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Dognin SA Soc
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B23/00—Flat warp knitting machines
    • D04B23/22—Flat warp knitting machines with special thread-guiding means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/02—Warp-thread guides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

Definitions

  • ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Lace is made on a knitting machine by a cast stitch method in which the warp shogged threads are brought to the needles by selectors carrying the stitch thread from which the needles form the interconnecting stitches.
  • the stitch thread is passed through elongated eyes in the selectors, this providing lost motion between the thread and selectors, which allows for faster machine operation, a reduction in thread wear, and the production of more elaborate designs.
  • the subject of the invention is a machine, for mechanically knitting lace.
  • the invention is concerned with warp knitting machines of the so-called cast stitch type.
  • Machines of this type intended for lace making have been proposed with an operating cycle, corresponding to the formation of one course of stitches, comprising a first phase in which the so-called warp, gimp and embroidery threads, which before reaching the needles pass through openings provided in juxtaposed, relatively-slidable straight steel strips, hereinafter referred to as lacing bars, and are shogged by these bars, which are shifted relatively to one another parallel to the line of needles in the machine by a jacquard mechanism in accordance with a predetermined programme depending on the lace design to be produced; a second phase comprising introducing a stitch thread into said set of primary threads adjacent said shogged structure, and simultaneously conducting said structure towards a line of needles, by means of a selector blade having a stitch thread passing therethrough and bent thereby and an oblique leading edge along which the shogged structure is guided; a third phase in which the selectors, at the end
  • Lace-knitting machines of this character are only capable of producing lace with poor designs, the non-repeated motifs of which are of small dimensions and are carried by a uniform ground network. This is because it has been impossible to provide a sufficient number of bars to fabricate a better lace without subjecting the threads to prohibitive stresses which they were unable to sustain.
  • An object of the present invention is to produce knitted lace with more opulent designs.
  • a further object is to provide for an increased machine output, with less wear on the textile threads employed.
  • the method according to the invention comprises the provision for lost-motion between the stitch thread and selector when the latter penetrates the set of primary threads whereby the stitch thread is moved by said selector during the final part only of the forward movement of the latter into said set and during the initial part only of the return movement of the selector from said set, so that the stitch threads are bent from their common plane between their feed guide and the needles during part only of the stroke which the selectors perform during each operating cycle.
  • the machine according to the invention for implementing this method is distinguished by the fact that the stitchthread opening in each selector comprises an elongated eye running alongside and adjacent to the leading edge of the selector and spanning a substantial part of the length of the latter.
  • a lace made in accordance with the invention in which the warp, gimp and, if used, the embroidery threads are connected together by stitches, is characterized by the fact that it has a ground structure in which the loops are of different mesh size, columns of adjacent stitches being interconnected by warp and like threads at different spacings.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic illustration, in vertical section, of parts of a straight lace-knitting machine constructed in accordance with the invention.
  • FIGS. 2 and 3 diagrammatically illustrated, in transverse section and elevation, parts of a lace-knitting, machine in accordance with a modification.
  • FIGS. 4 to 7 illustrate, similarly to FIGS. 2 and 3, the same machine during two further successive phases in the operating cycle.
  • FIG. 8 shows diagrammatically, in transverse section, some characteristic parts of a lace-knitting machine construction in accordance with a further modification of the invention.
  • FIG. 9 illustrates a stitch lace made on a conventional knitting machine.
  • FIG. 10 shows a lace which can be produced by knitting in accordance with the present invention.
  • the machine comprises at least one set of juxtaposed rectilinear steel strips 1, hereinafter referred to as bars and known per se, each of which has a set of openings 3 through each of which passes a warp, gimp or embroidery thread 1 running to one of the needles 2.
  • bars are shoggable, that is to say relatively slidable, one along another, parallel to the line O-O of the course of stitches on the needles 2 or hooks, e.g.
  • a row of plate form selectors or blades 4 disposed perpendicular to the bars 1. These selectors, by a reciprocatory movement following the phase of the operating cycle in which the bars 1 have shogged the threads 1, are made to penetrate into the set of threads together. In this motion the tips 6 of their leading edges pass first at the level of the bars 1, followed by the remainder of these edges, which are oblique with respect to the aforesaid threads 1, so that the shogged threads 1 are pressed back progressively, starting at the tips 6, from the bars 1 to the level of the needles 2 by a combing action.
  • Each selector has an opening passing from one side i to the other thereof in the vicinity of its leading edge 5,
  • This thread F is moved and bent by the selector through the set of shogged threads 1, and is lapped by a small transverse movement of this selector in the direction 0-0 at the end of the stroke around the hook of the corresponding needle 2.
  • This forms a stitch around the shogged threads under the selector 4, and so fixes these threads in a coherent web to form the lacework.
  • the opening in the selector for the passage of the stitch thread F has previously been a hole T in the lower part of the selector.
  • the selector 4 bends the thread F during the complete path of travel of hole T in passing from C to A (see FIG. 1) that is to say during half of the complete reciprocating stroke performed by the selector during one operating cycle of the machine.
  • the result is that the selector, at each stroke, draws out a loop of thread which is larger than is required to pass this thread round the appropriate needle 2 to form the next stitch.
  • the thread passing through the hole T is rubbed hard against the edges of the latter, because the selector has to pull the thread to draw it out, and the thread is bent.
  • the formation of the stitch only uses a small fraction of the length of thread which is subjected to this frictional wear, so that during the subsequent operating cycles in which further stitches are formed, the same piece of thread is rubbed by the selector a number of times; this number increases in proportion to the length of thread which is drawn off per stroke of the selector.
  • the opening 7 in the selector 4 for the passage of thread F is made of elongated form and disposed close to the leading edge of this selector so as to run along this edge to the vicinity of the tip 6 of the selector. Accordingly stitch thread F is not drawn out during the first part, C to B of the forward stroke C to A of theselector 4 nor during the final parts B to C of its return stroke A to C.
  • the opening 7 extends at an angle to the direction of this stroke which is approximately equal and opposite to that at which the stitch thread F intersects this direction.
  • the thread F is tensioned by passing it as closely as possible to the set of bars 1 and by maintaining it in this direction, by passing it over a rocker guide 8 (that is to say a thread guide which applies a resilient rearwards pull to the thread F and, because of this, allows the selectors free play Whilst the thread F is held tensioned) which is fixed to the machine.
  • a rocker guide 8 that is to say a thread guide which applies a resilient rearwards pull to the thread F and, because of this, allows the selectors free play Whilst the thread F is held tensioned
  • the selector 4 is then returned to its stroke until it reaches a position in which the thread F is stretched between 0 and 8, that is to say in which the hole T is aligned with the thread guide 8 and the stitch which it forms around the needle 2.
  • the hole T is at the point B, the selector having traversed the part IKE of its return stroke, which corresponds to the minimum displacement that it must impart to the stitch thread F to bend it through the set of threads f to wrap it on the needle 2.
  • the thread F is then disengaged from the hole T and the selector is withdrawn until its tip -6 has left the set of threads 1; the hole T then reaches point C.
  • the minimum length K6 of the forward and return stroke to be performed by the selector during each operating cycle has thus been determined.
  • the hole T being located at point C, to obtain the eye 7 in accordance with the invention it is only required to elongate the hole T from point C until it is level with thread F held between 0 and the rocker 8 and, in the case illustrated therefore, to point D.
  • this elongated eye 7 is enlarged transversely, between C and D, at the same time conforming to the structural requirements of the selector which, on the one hand must be able to withstand the flexing forces which are applied thereto by the threads 7, and on the other hand, must have as small an inertia as possible.
  • the elongated eye may have the shape shown at 7 in FIG. 1, or at 7a in FIGS. 2, 4, 6.
  • the friction which thread F meets against selector 4 increases as the angle which the selector 4 imposes on thread F, in passing from B to A, becomes more accentuated, and increases with the pull which the selector 4 at the same time exerts on thread Fin elongating it between points 0 and 8.
  • Thread F which remains continually tensioned be tween rocker 8 and point 0, rubs twice, in opposite senses
  • the operation of the selector according to the invention is improved in relation to known selectors with a rectilinear leading edge and having, at this edge 5, a slope which is very small towards the tip 6 (so as to improve the selectivity of the latter), then more pronounced, and then progressively diminishing along the largest part of this edge up to the base of the selector.
  • the upper curve of the leading edge of the selector is much shorter than the lower edge. This form of selector leading edge allows the threads to be conserved to a greater extent during their selection because it regularises the rate of descending movement of the shogged threads from the bottom of the set of bars 1 to the level of the tips of the needles 2.
  • the upper curve of the leading edge 5, instead of being inverted in relation to the lower curve may even constitute a prolongation of the latter straightening out progressively to the tip 6.
  • the bottom of the selector may be relieved at 9 behind the lower end of the elongated eye 7, thereby to provide a clearance for the maximum lift of the tip of needle 2 when the selector, after its forward stroke from C to A, and before its return stroke from A to C, passes laterally above needle 2 in the direction O-O to wrap the stitch thread F on the needle 2 which is then at clearing height.
  • the threads fa from a perforated plate, a so-called Sly plate pass through the set of bars before converging to the line O-O.
  • the bars are orientated in the directions of the threads which pass through them, that is to say in planes which converge at line 0-0.
  • the threads fa constitute two equal fan shapes between the bars 1a and the line 0-0 at either side of the vertical h between the line OO and the level of the lower end of bars 1a.
  • Each of these fan shapes defines a rectangular triangle of which the side perpendicular to h is equal to b, corresponding to half the thickness of the pack of bars, and su'btends an angle a at O. Satisfactory functioning of the bars is obtained by choosing an angle at equal to or less than 20.
  • h not only determines the number of bars which can be arranged in the machine but also the length c over which the same gimp thread fa can be laid on one side or other of the preceding stitch by a single selector 4a along the line OO of formation of the course of stitches (see FIGS. 3, 5 and 7).
  • the capacity of the machine to cater for an increase in the dimensions of the stitch motifs also depends both on the number of bars which can be provided in the machine, that is to say on the dimension b, and on the amplitude c of the flights which the gimp threads can perform to and fro in the direction of the weft in the lace produced.
  • the largest dimension of a design to be covered by the gimp threads in the weft direction is for example 60, it will be necessary to make available for the purpose six gimp threads fa to be manipulated by six bars 1a.
  • the amplitude of the reciprocating throws which can be made by the gimp threads in the direction of the weft in the lace in stead of c is, for example c/2, it will be necessary, for production of the same design on this less selective machine, to use twelve threads and twelve bars instead of the aforementioned six threads and six bars.
  • the aforesaid amplitude 0 may be expressed in numbers of needles n in relation to the standard used.
  • the English standard j which is generally used, indicates the number of successive needles n on the line OO in the course of a length of two inches, that is to say of 50.8 mm.
  • a machine of this character has a number of advantages. In the first place the height of the machine is reduced because the heavy and bulky bobbins for supplying the warp gimp and stitch threads, and embroidery threads, are mounted at the lower part of the frame of the machine, and this frame need only be of a height sufficient to support the toothed cylinders 10 receiving the fabricated lace web.
  • the mechanism provided by the present invention enables old machines of the Leavers type to be converted to produce machines for knitting a lace the appearance of which is identical, from the point of view of motif, dimensions and variety of designs, to those which have hitherto been obtained, with a very inferior output, on Leavers machines by a twisting and not a stitch formation.
  • a machine constructed in accordance with this invention may be supervised by an operative used to working with a Leavers machine, without this operative having to be laboriously retrained.
  • the machine in accordance with the invention may be eqiupped with bottom bars placed above or below the bars 1a, depending on the choice of the position of the selector, and this will, as in the case of Leavers machines, allow a considerable enrichment of the lace by variable loop sizes in the ground network, and at the sametime obtain an increase in design pattern in the direction O--O (weft direction).
  • variable loop sizes in the ground net are obtained by allowing some of the Warp and/or gimp and/or embroidery threads to escape the stitch through the aforesaid bottom bars so that these threads will, in the finished lace, connect between them columns of adjacent stitches at imequal distances which will determine these variableoops.
  • the machine in accordance with the invention advantageously uses the staggering of the bars by a half interval between two needles in the direction of movement of the bars, as known in connection with Leavers machines, such that the through passage of the tips of the selectors provides for a suitable selection of threads for fa for a value 20 instead of 0.
  • the maximum lapping of the gimp thread of ten needles, in the direction OO (weft direction) may be extended to 20 needles in a single course of stitches.
  • FIGS. 2 and 3 illustrate the elements of the machine at the beginning of a stitch-forming cycle.
  • the selector 4a having opening 7a with thread Fa threaded therethrough is located in front of the set fa of threads which, from the lower edges of the bars 1a converges to the course of stitches which have previously been formed on the needles 2a.
  • the bars 1a controlled by the jacquard mechanism (not shown) produce the shogging of the threads fa up to the position in the course of stitches to be formed required by the lace design.
  • the selector 4a passes through the set of threads fa from right to left (of FIG. 2) and, towards the end of its stroke, draws the stitch thread Fa through this set to the position illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5, which represents the end of the forward stroke of selector 4a.
  • the selector 4a then moves in the direction OO, that is to say at right angles to the plane of the drawing (in reference to FIG.
  • selector 4a reverses and leaves the threads set of fa from left to right, as shown in FIG. 6, whilst needle 2a forms the new stitch.
  • the various elements of the machine return to their initial positions (seen in FIG. 2) ready to commence a new operating cycle for the formation of a new course of stitches on needles 2.
  • FIG. 9 shows a lace structure obtained on a known knitting machine of the Raschel type.
  • this lace which includes embroidery threads, may be regarded as an improved lace because it has been made on a knitting machine, it will be noted that the opening or loops A in the ground structure are all of the same size, forming a network over the complete surface of the structure on which the design is stitched. Under these circumstances the motif or pattern M must be modest.
  • FIG. 9 shows a lace which can now, and for the first time, be produced in accordance with this invention by knitting on a machine in which the operating rhythm is greatly superior to that of a Leavers machine and which does not require, as does the latter, frequent stoppages to replenish the bobbins of small capacity for the threads which are assembled by a twisting technique.
  • the ground network of the lace in FIG. 10 has meshes A A A A of different shapes and sizes, and it will also be seen that the motif or pattern M of this lace is much superior to M although this lace also includes embroidery threads.
  • a knitting machine of the cast stitch type for the machine production of lace comprising, in combination and in operative relationship, a plurality of apertured strips forming lacing bars, means to produce relative movement between said bars through control means of a jacquard patterning mechanism so as to shog a set of primary threads which are selected from warp, gimp and embroidery threads, which are adapted to pass through said lacing bars; a set of needles aligned in a straight line, and a plurality of movable selectors, means for moving said selectors with a reciprocating forward and return movement through and back out of said set of primary threads, and means for moving said selectors with a lateral movement in the direction of said line of needles substantially at the end of said reciprocating forward movement of said selectors, each selector having a leading edge which is inclined relatively to the direction of the reciprocating forward and return movement of the selector for engaging and displacing shogged threads from said lacing bars towards said needles during movement of the selector in the
  • lacing bars are arranged in two groups of substantially equal numbers of bars, one of said groups being disposed at each side of a medial plane perpendicular to the direction of reciprocation of said selectors and passing through the line of stitch formation by said needles.
  • a machine according to claim 1 in which the needles are disposed above the lacing bars with their operative ends directed downwards towards the latter, and the selectors are arranged during an operating cycle, to pass over the lacing bars with their tips directed downwardly and towards these bars and below the needles.
  • a machine in which the distance between the bars and the line of formation of the course of stiches is at least five and a half times greater than the length, in the direction of the said line, over which a single gimp thread can be laid by a single selector on either side of the preceding stitch.
  • a machine in which a portion of the selector, to the rear of the leading edge thereof and behind the said elongated eye, is relieved to provide a clearance from the raised needle or needles when the selector performs a thread-wrapping movement.
  • a machine in which the speed of the selectors varies and attains its maximum at substantially mid course, whereby the selectors, which move their corresponding stitch threads during the final part only of their forward movement and during the initial part only of their return movement, apply friction to these stitch threads less abruptly than if the selectors moved the stitch threads with their maximum speed.
  • selector is substantially rectilinear.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US652577A 1966-07-13 1967-07-11 Lace-knitting machine Expired - Lifetime US3512378A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR69395A FR1526859A (fr) 1966-07-13 1966-07-13 Perfectionnements apportés aux moyens pour tricoter mécaniquement de la dentelle et à la dentelle obtenue par ces moyens
FR111002A FR92626E (nl) 1966-07-13 1967-06-06

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US3512378A true US3512378A (en) 1970-05-19

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US652577A Expired - Lifetime US3512378A (en) 1966-07-13 1967-07-11 Lace-knitting machine

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US (1) US3512378A (nl)
BE (1) BE701342A (nl)
CH (1) CH496128A (nl)
DE (1) DE1585536C3 (nl)
ES (1) ES343663A1 (nl)
FR (2) FR1526859A (nl)
GB (1) GB1196138A (nl)
LU (1) LU54075A1 (nl)
NL (1) NL6709745A (nl)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4279133A (en) * 1979-05-18 1981-07-21 Sulzer Brothers Limited Laying-in comb for warp knitting machines
US4319468A (en) * 1979-06-15 1982-03-16 Sulzer Brothers Ltd. Raschel machine
US4358939A (en) * 1979-06-15 1982-11-16 Sulzer Brothers Limited Raschel warp knitting machine

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH632542A5 (de) * 1978-12-06 1982-10-15 Sulzer Ag Bremsvorrichtung einer maschine zur erzeugung textiler flaechengebilde.
DE2926018C2 (de) * 1979-06-12 1982-12-02 Gebrüder Sulzer AG, 8401 Winterthur Vorrichtung zur Programmsteuerung der Versatzbewegungen von Legeschienen an Kettenwirkmaschinen
DE3023952A1 (de) * 1980-06-26 1982-01-14 Karl Mayer Textil-Maschinen-Fabrik Gmbh, 6053 Obertshausen Kettenwirkmaschine
FR2555144B1 (fr) * 1983-11-23 1986-04-18 Rougemont Manufacture Rouleau de lien bobine, conditionne sur un presentoir, et son procede d'obtention
DE3912975A1 (de) * 1989-04-20 1990-11-08 Basf Ag Polyethylen sowie copolymerisate aus ueberwiegenden anteilen von ethylen
DE10041192C2 (de) * 2000-08-23 2002-09-19 Mayer Textilmaschf Musterlegebarrenanordnung für Kettenwirkmaschinen

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB189612653A (en) * 1896-06-09 1897-04-17 Laurentine Jouatte A New or Improved Belt to be Used by Women at Periods of Menstruation, or After Confinement, or for Surgical Purposes.
US2699658A (en) * 1952-05-03 1955-01-18 Peters Cora Lee Worthington Method of and machine for warp knitting

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB189612653A (en) * 1896-06-09 1897-04-17 Laurentine Jouatte A New or Improved Belt to be Used by Women at Periods of Menstruation, or After Confinement, or for Surgical Purposes.
US2699658A (en) * 1952-05-03 1955-01-18 Peters Cora Lee Worthington Method of and machine for warp knitting

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4279133A (en) * 1979-05-18 1981-07-21 Sulzer Brothers Limited Laying-in comb for warp knitting machines
US4319468A (en) * 1979-06-15 1982-03-16 Sulzer Brothers Ltd. Raschel machine
US4358939A (en) * 1979-06-15 1982-11-16 Sulzer Brothers Limited Raschel warp knitting machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR1526859A (fr) 1968-05-31
NL6709745A (nl) 1968-01-15
DE1585536A1 (de) 1972-05-10
DE1585536B2 (de) 1973-08-16
LU54075A1 (nl) 1969-04-29
ES343663A1 (es) 1969-05-01
CH496128A (fr) 1970-09-15
FR92626E (nl) 1968-12-06
GB1196138A (en) 1970-06-24
BE701342A (nl) 1968-01-15
DE1585536C3 (de) 1974-06-12

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