US3451441A

US3451441A - Woven fabric

Info

Publication number: US3451441A
Application number: US194750A
Authority: US
Inventors: Cesar Bustamante
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1961-05-23
Filing date: 1962-05-10
Publication date: 1969-06-24
Anticipated expiration: 1986-06-24

Description

June 24, 1969 c. BUSTAMANTE 3,

WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23, 1961 Sheet L of 3 INVENTOR. Czsn/z BUST/7M4?! 4 r raw/v5 Y Jl'ln 1969 I c. BUSTAMANTE 3,451,441

WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23, 1961 Sheet of 3 FIG.5

100B 100B 1OOD1OOA 'IOOD 'IOOA IOOD IOOB 100C 100C 100C 1008 100C 1005 100C 1 'IOOA INVENTOR.

Cesar Bustamanlre ATTORNEY,

C. BUSTAMANTE June 24, 1969 Sheet Z WOVEN FABRIC Original Filed May 23, 1961 FIG. I0

FIG.7

INVENTOR. Cesar Busfamanre 5/ 7 ATTO RNEY United States Patent 3,451,441 WOVEN FABRIC Cesar Bustamante, 150 W. 21st St., New York, N.Y. 10011 Original application May 23, 1961, Ser. No. 111,948, now Patent No. 3,156,265, dated Nov. 10, 1964. Divided and this application May 10, 1962, Ser. No. 194,750

Int. Cl. D03d 3/00 US. Cl. 139-384 8 Claims This invention is related in general to the art of weaving, and more particularly to an improved fabric weave.

This application is a division of copending Ser. No. 111,948, filed May 23, 1961, now =U.S. Patent No. 3,156,265.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved fabric weave having a selvedge edge along the length of a woven fabric formed with a chain or looped stitched.

Another object is to automatically interweave onto a fabric woven in accordance with this invention a metallic, plastic, leather link or the like so as to give the woven fabric a pleasing and ornamental appearance.

A feature of this invention resides in the provision that fabric produced thereby is particularly suitable for automatically making elastic belts and the like of woven thread with and/or without ornamental links interwoven thereinto.

Still another feature resides in the arrangement and operation of the weft thread hook and latching needles for attaining the chain or looped stitched selvedge edge in a fabric woven in accordance with this invention.

Other features and advantages will become readily apparent when considered in view of the drawings and description pertaining thereto in which:

FIG. 1 is a fragmentary pictorial plan view of the weaving station with the hook needle fully retracted.

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary pictorial plan view of the weaving station with the hook needle protracted to pick up the weft thread.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged detail of the improved needle construction for weaving the weft thread illustrating the position of the weft thread in preparation for forming the chain or looped stitch.

FIG. 4 illustrates the arrangement of the needle parts in chain stitch forming position.

FIG. 5 illustrates a bottom plan view of a fragmentary portion of an ornamental fabric woven in accordance with this invention.

FIG. 5A is a schematic end view of the ornamental fabric of FIG. 5 showing how the link sections are retained.

FIGS. 6, 7 and 8 illustrate the various positions of the warp threads during a weaving operation in accordance with this invention.

FIG. 9 illustrates a detail of a modified link.

FIG. 10 is a section view taken along line 10-10 of FIG. 9.

It will be understood that the invention, to be herein described in detail, is applicable to the art of weaving in general. However, the invention will be described with particular reference to the weaving of fabrics having ornamental links interwoven thereinto. More particularly the invention will be described with reference to the making of elastic or stretchable fabric or belts formed of woven elastic and/or inelastic threads, and which has interwoven thereinto links formed of any suitable material such as metal, plastic, leather and the like. While the links may assume any desired shape, the links 27, as illustrated in FIGS. 5 and 8, are formed with a scalloped leading edge 27A and a trailing edge 27B having formed therein corresponding V-shaped notches 270. It will be noted that links 27 having an even number of scallops 3,451,441 Patented June 24, 1969 and links 27 having odd number of scallops are alternately interwoven onto the face of the belt or fabric in overlying relationship so as to give a scale-like appearance. Further, the arrangement and shape of the links 27 and 27' are such that they do not interfere with either the flexibility of the finished goods or the elasticity thereof when the fabric is formed of woven elastic threads. For added effect the links 27" may be formed with scallops having a slightly raised outer contour 28 to give a further rounded or bead-like appearance thereto.

In accordance with this invention the improved fabric weave comprises the division of the warp threads into at least two

sets

100B and 100C. See FIGS. 3, 4, and 6 to 8. With the two sets of

Warp threads

100B, 100C held apart, the pickup of the weft thread 101 is made; and the weft thread 101 inserted transversely between the two parted

sets

100B, 100C of warp threads 100. The pickup 0f the Weft thread 101 in accordance with this invention is made with a hook needle 102 in a manner to form a weft thread loop 101A on the shank of the needle 102. With the weft thread 101 positioned between the two

warp sets

100B, 100C, the positions of the

warp sets

100B, 100C are interchanged. Upon changing position of the

warp threads

100B, 100C the hook needle 102 is again advanced to pick up the weft thread and forms the next weft thread loop 101B. In doing so the previously formed weft loop 101A slides onto the rear end of the needle and over a latch needle 103 which is slidably mounted within a recess 102A of hook needle 102 as needle 102 advances to the left to hook the next weft thread to form the next weft loop. Upon return or retraction of hook needle 102, with the next weft loop 101B, the latch needle 103 is timed to close the hook needle 102 so that the retained loop 101A is cast off needle 102 and over the held loop 101B as shown in FIG. 4. Thus a chain stitch or looped selvedge edge is formed along the longitudinal edge of the woven fabrics. In the fully retracted position of the hook needle 102, the latch needle 103 is moved to open the hook so that the operation can be repeated. With a weave constructed in the manner described the necessity of the heretofore use of a flying shuttle is eliminated together with its inherent disadvantages.

To interweave links 27, 27' onto the face of a fabric Woven as above described, the warp threads are further divided into two

additional sets

100A and 100D. As shown in FIGS. 6 to 8 the

warp thread sets

100A, 100D also interchange relative position with the changing of position of

warp thread sets

100B, 100C, but

warp sets

100A, 100D are timed so that each

set

100A and 100D is respectively angled with respect to either

sets

100B, 100C to provide spacing therebetween for receiving links 27 or 27'. Thus upon the

warp sets

100A, 100D changing position, the

respective links

27, 27 are alternately secured to the face of the fabric by either

warp threads

100A or 100D. Note that the

warp thread sets

100A, 100D have an even and odd number of threads, respectively corresponding to the number of even or odd scalloped links 27, 27'.

The woven fabric F as shown in FIG. 5 comprises a series of warp threads 100 which are grouped into

warp threads

100A, 100B, 100C and 100D with a weft thread 101 woven between the warp threads 100. The weft thread 101 is interwoven between the warp threads as a transversely extending loop whereby the loop end 101B of one weft thread is threaded through the loop 101B of the next preceding weft thread 101. Thus one edge P1 of the woven fabric is defined by a chain or looped stitch. Interposed between the weave of the fabric are a series of

links

27 and 27 As shown, each link is provided with a scalloped edge in which alternate links are provided with an even and odd number of scallops, link 27 containing an even number of scallops and link 27 having an odd number of scallops. The fabric is woven so that certain warp threads 100A are used to secure the even links 27 in position to one side of the fabric and the warp threads 100D secure the odd scalloped links 27 to the same side of the fabric. Thus in the finished fabric, the links 27 and 27' are secured in overlapping position on one side of the fabric to give a scale-like appearance. To render the fabric elastic or stretchable, certain of the warp threads may be formed of an elastic or stretchable type thread.

The sequence of the weaving operation with the ornamental links interwoven in the fabric is as follows:

Referring to FIG. 6, with the layer of

warp threads

100C, 100B separated and the odd links holding warp threads 100A separated from layer 1003, a link is moved into position between

layer

100A and 100B. In this position the comb 97 is in position as shown in FIG. 2 and the guard 98 is firm against the weft thread of the preceding weaving step. With the parts so arranged the needle drive means and connected linkage causes the hook needle carrier 86 to advance the hook needle 102 through the slot in guard 98 toward the holder 105 of the weft thread 101. Upon hooking and picking up the weft thread, the hook needle 102 is retracted to the right as shown in FIG. 1. In moving to the right, pin 95 on carrier 86 trips lever 90 to release the latch needle 103 and it moves to close the hook of needle 102 to retain the loop of weft thread on the hook while casting off the loop of the preceding weft thread, as hereinbefore described to form the chain stitch. With the hook needle 102 fully retracted the latch needle is urged to unlatched position and the comb 97 and guard 98 is rocked away from the weaving station. As the comb 97 and guard 98 is moved out of the way by the timing of a drive means, another drive means effects actuation of the shedding means. The action of the weaving bars is such that the position of warp thread layer 100A and B are interchanged with layers 100C and D, as shown in FIG. 7. With the warp threads in this position the comb 97 and guard are again moved toward the weaving station. The hook needle is again moved to the left to pick up the weft thread 101. In doing so, the loop of the preceding weft thread slides over the open latch needle and onto the shank of the hook needle 103 as the hook needle 102 moves to the left, FIG. 3. During retraction, the hook and

latch needle

102, 103 cooperate to again effect the chain stitch as described. The comb 97 and guard 98 again move away from the weaving station and the separated warp layers 100A, B and 100C, D interchange to assume a position as shown in FIG. 8. In this position the warp threads layer 100D is spaced from layers 100A and B. In this position the press stamps the even scalloped edge link 27 and its cooperating transfer means T is timed to position the blanked even scalloped links between

warp layer

100A and 100D. Thus the comb' and guard 98 is again timed to move toward the weaving station. As the guard moves into position between

layers

100C and 100A to pack the weft thread between the warp threads of layers 100C and A, the hook needle is again advanced toward the weft holder to again pick up the weft thread 101. The hook needle 102 with the weft thread is again retracted with the next chain stitch being formed as described, and the comb and guard subsequently moved away from the weaving station so that the weaving drive means may again effectively interchange the layers or warp threads to a position illustrated in FIG. 7. This completes the weaving sequence, which is continuously repeated to form a fabric belt of a given length having interwoven ornamental links.

A feature of this weaving operation to be noted is that the Weft thread on each pass is formed of a double strand, in accordance with this invention, with the looped end of the double strand forming the chain stitch.

The improved method for weaving thread into fabric in accordance with this invention includes the steps of separating of warp threads into a plurality of layers, holding the two layers apart, picking up a weft thread and inserting the same between the separated layers so as to form a loop on one end thereof, interchanging the position of the warp thread layers, then picking up the next weft thread while retaining the looped end of the preceding weft thread, and inserting the next weft thread between the interchanged warp thread layers, and forming a chain stitch by pulling the loop of the next weft thread through the loop of the preceding retained weft thread along a selvedge edge portion of the fabric; and repeating the above sequence to weave a fabric to a given length.

In securing an ornamental link onto the weave of the fabric, the warp threads are additionally divided into a plurality of auxiliary warp threads which are adapted to separate from the other or main layers of warp threads, stamping a link from suitable blank material and thereafter positioning the link between one of the auxiliary layers of warp thread and a main layer of warp thread so that when the layers of warp threads are interchanged during the weaving operation, the auxiliary warp threads will secure the links in place on the weave of the main layers of warp thread, and the operation repeated as often as desired.

From the foregoing method an improved weave is attained. It will be noted that the fabric resulting therefrom has its warp threads interchanged about a double strand of weft threads, i.e. a weft thread folded on itself to form a loop along one of the selvedge edges of the fabric. The arrangement is such that the looped end of the next formed weft loop is extended through the loop of the preceding weft loop and thereby terminate a selvedge edge of the fabric with a chain stitch. The normal weaving operation heretofore known did not produce such a weave.

While the instant invention has been disclosed with reference to a particular embodiment thereof, it is to be appreciated that the invention is not to be taken as limited to all of the details thereof as modifications and variations thereof may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided into two layers, a doubled over strand of weft thread defining a loop at one end thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and the looped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of the next succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedge edge of said fabric and a third layer of warp threads, and a fiat scalloped edge link interwoven between said third layer and one of the other of said two layers of warp threads.

2. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided into two layers, a double over strand of weft thread defining a loop at one end thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and the looped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of the next succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedge edge of the fabric and including two auxiliary layers of warp threads, and a link alternately secured between one of said auxiliary warp thread layers and the two layers of warp threads and other auxiliary warp thread layer.

3. A woven fabric comprising a plurality of warp threads divided into two layers, a double over strand of weft thread defining a loop at one end thereof inserted between the respective warp thread layers, and the looped end of one weft thread adapted to receive the looped end of the next succeeding weft thread to define a chain stitch along a selvedge edge of said fabric, and two auxiliary layers of warp threads, and a link alternately secured between one of said auxiliary warp thread layers and the two layers of warp thread and other auxiliary warp thread layer wherein said links have a scalloped edge portion, and the threads of the auxiliary warp layers are positioned between scallops of said links to prevent lateral 5 displacement of said links when secured onto the woven fabric.

4. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein alternate links are formed with an even and odd number of scallops.

5. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein the scalloped portions of the links have rounded contours to give said links a beaded appearance.

6. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein the links are flat.

7. A method of interweaving ornamental links into fabric comprising the steps of separating the warp threads of the fabric into two main warp thread layers and at least one auxiliary warp thread set, holding said two main warp thread layers and said auxiliary set apart one from the other, positioning a link between said auxiliary warp thread set and one of said main thread layers, picking up a weft thread and inserting said weft thread between the parted main warp thread layers so that the weft thread forms a loop along the selvedge edge of the fabric, interchanging the position of the auxiliary Warp thread set and said one main warp thread layer positioned adjacent said link with the portion of the other main layer of warp threads to cross said weft thread, picking up the next weft thread and inserting it between the interchanged auxiliary warp thread set and said one main layer and said other main warp thread layer, and pulling the loop of said next weft thread through the loop of the preceding weft thread to form a chain stitch along the selvedge edge of the fabric.

8. A method of interweaving ornamental links into fabric comprising the steps of separating the warp threads of the fabric into two main warp layers and two auxiliary warp thread sets, holding said two main warp thread sets and one of said auxiliary sets apart one from the other, positioning a link between one of said auxiliary warp thread sets and one of said main warp layers, picking up a weft thread and inserting said weft thread between the separated warp layers so that the weft thread forms a loop along the selvedge edge of the fabric, interchanging the position of said one auxiliary warp set and said one main w-arp thread set positioned adjacent the link with the warp threads of the other warp layer and other auxiliary warp set, picking up the next weft thread and inserting it between the separated said one layer and one auxiliary set of warp threads and said other main layer and auxiliary set, pulling the loop of said next weft thread through the loop defined by the preceding weft thread to form a chain stitch along the selvedge edge of the fabric, interchanging the position of said warp layers again so that said main warp thread layers and said other auxiliary warp set are parted one from the other, inserting a link between the parted said other auxiliary set and main warp layer, picking up the next succeeding weft thread, inserting it between the parted said other auxiliary warp set and main warp thread layers so as to form a loop at one end thereof, and pulling the loop of the next succeeding weft thread through the loop of the next preceding weft thread.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,300,718 11/1942 Williams et a1. l39425 2,354,435 7/1944 Stedman l39-420 2,396,482 3/1946 Alderfer 134421 2,609,013 9/1952 Arnyot 139-384 2,891,583 6/1956 Jones et a1 139124.1

HENRY S. JAUDON, Primary Examiner.

US. Cl. X.R. 139421

Claims

1. A WOVEN FABRIC COMPRISING A PLURALITY OF WARP THREADS DIVIDED INTO TWO LAYERS, A DOUBLE OVER STRAND OF WEFT THREAD DEFINING A LOOP AT ONE END THEREOF INSERTED BETWEN THE RESPECTIVE WARP THREAD LAYERS, AND THE LOOPED END OF ONE WEFT THREAD ADAPTED TO RECEIVE THE LOOPED END OF THE NEXT SUCCEEDING WEFT THREAD TO DEFINE A CHAIN STITCH ALONG A SELVEDGE EDGE OF SAID FABRIC AND A THIRD LAYER OF WARP THREADS, AND A FLAT SCALLOPED EDGE LINK INTERWOVEN BETWEEN SAID THIRD LAYER AND ONE OF THE OTHER OF SAID TWO LAYERS OF WARP THREADS.