US3274962A - Gimp-feed mechanism for buttonholestitching machines - Google Patents

Gimp-feed mechanism for buttonholestitching machines Download PDF

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Publication number
US3274962A
US3274962A US467438A US46743865A US3274962A US 3274962 A US3274962 A US 3274962A US 467438 A US467438 A US 467438A US 46743865 A US46743865 A US 46743865A US 3274962 A US3274962 A US 3274962A
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Prior art keywords
gimp
buttonhole
stitching
lever
stitch
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Expired - Lifetime
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US467438A
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English (en)
Inventor
Pudelko Hermann
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Duerkoppwerke GmbH
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Duerkoppwerke GmbH
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/10—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for making piped openings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B73/00—Casings
    • D05B73/04—Lower casings
    • D05B73/12—Slides; Needle plates
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
    • D05D2303/08—Cordage

Definitions

  • buttonshole-stitching devices in which the fabric to be provided with the buttonhole is clamped upon a table and shifted therewith into the buttonhole-stitching position in which a buttonhole is formed by a vertically reciprocating needle.
  • the table is returned to its initial position in which the thread may be severed from the buttonhole without interference by the buttonhole-stitching methods.
  • my application Ser. No. 328,988 filed December 9, 1963 I describe the feeding of a gimp or stiffening (stay) cord to the buttonholestitching location for incorporation in the buttonhole seam to form a bead surrounding the latter when the buttonhole is cut through.
  • automatic buttonhole-stitching apparatus have been provided with a feed mechanism which removes from the gimp supply (eg a bobbin or spool of gimp cord), a length of gimp equal substantially to that required for the forthcoming stitching operation, and holds this supply in readiness at the stitching location.
  • the gimp is fed without tensioning to the stitching location for the formation of the initial bead and then is stitched around the eye of the buttonhole.
  • Mechanism can be provided in the conventional systems for insuring that the prepared length of gimp lies properly for the subsequent stitch-ing operation. This mechanism is actuated upon initiation of the machine cycle and is rendered ineffective by many disorders commonly occurring in the gimp-feed arrangement.
  • the apparatus commences operation under circumstances in which a length of gimp has not been supplied; the result is a defective buttonhole.
  • the gimp thread loops at the supply spool, it frequently cannot be fed readily to the stitching location during the next: cycle.
  • the problem thus can be defined as one which requires that the gimp be supplied positively and without interference to the stitching location for commencement of each buttonhole-stitching operation, that proper tension is maintained upon the gimp for the required period without interference with the laying-in operation, and that the gimp thread be held in readiness for the next cycle and not dislodged.
  • Another object of this invention is to provide an improved gimp-feed system for positioning a loose length of gimp thread at the buttonhole-stitching location independent of the operating cycle of the stitching mechanism so that the buttonhole-stitching operation itself cannot influence the preparation of the length of gimp.
  • an automatic buttonhole-stitching machine having a stitch-forming means, a fabriccarrying table cooperating with this means for producing a buttonhole, and drive mechanism for operating the turntable and the stitch-forming means with the requisite correlation and actuating element for this mechanism having a limited play or initial movement prior to triggering the mechanism, gimp-feed means forming a path for a gimp-thread extending from a supply (e.g.
  • the gimp is engageable by the actuating element at a location behind this clamping means (i.e. between the clamping means and the supply means) for drawing a length of gimp from the supply means when the actuating element is displaced in advance of operation of the drive mechanism for commencing the buttonhole-stitching operation. Only after this actuating element has prepared a loose length of gimp suflicient to complete the forthcoming buttonhole does the actuating member place in operation the stitchforming means.
  • the clamping means retains the gimp during its stitching into the initial bead and cooperates with the turntable (or the means for displacing same) so that only upon the development of the operating cycle does the clamping means open to release the gimp after it has been stitched and thus fixed in place during the initial bead.
  • the clamping means can comprise a rockable clamping plate mounted upon the turntable and engageable with the gimp to clamp the latter against the turntable, control means being provided on the table and the support means of the machine for operating this plate.
  • control means can include a camoperable actuating member carried by the turntable and engageable with the plate for displacing the same, latch means cooperating with this lever for releasably locking the latter in a position in which the clamp is engaged, and cam means on the turntable or support for camming the lever into its latched position to clamp the gimp and for tripping the latch means to release the lever when the gimp is to be released.
  • the clamping means may thus be provided with a pair of cams for the opening and closing of the latch means and disposed at spaced-apart locations in the direction of travel of the table; it is another specific feature of this invention to provide means for relatively adjusting these cams thereby accommodating this system to buttonholes of substantially any length. Since the latch means and the clamping plate normally engage the thread except during part of the buttonhole-stitching operation, 1 provide manually operable means for releasing the latch means and displacing the plate to release the gimp in order to permit the operator to feed a new gimp thread into position along the gimp-feed path.
  • FIG. 1 is a side-elevational view of an automatic buttonhole-stitching machine provided with thread-severing means and an actuating system as described in my copending application Ser. No. 431,319, but having the im proved gimp-feed means of the instant invention;
  • FIG. 2 is a partial plan view, with parts removed, of the machine of FIG. 1;
  • FIG. 3 is a plan view of the stitch-forming and gimpfeed means thereof in the region of the stitching location;
  • FIG. 4 is a detail view, drawn to an enlarged scale and partially broken away, of the gimp-clamping means of the instant invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view taken along the line VV of the FIG. 4, drawn to a still larger scale.
  • the buttonhole-stitching machine of the present invention is essentially identical with that illustrated and described in my copending application Ser. No. 431,319 and entitled Buttonhole- Stitching Machine and Thread-severing Therefor.
  • the apparatus comprises a base or housing, generally designated 1, upon which a fixed but removable upper portion or arm-forming member of the support means is mounted. In the usual manner, this arm-forming upper portion contains the control and severing mechanism for the buttonhole-stitching and thread-severing units.
  • the housing 1 is, in turn, mounted upon the usual foundation plate (not illustrated), and carries a longitudinally shiftable fabriccarrying table 3 at this upper portion 2 of the support means.
  • the stitch-forming means 5 can include a generally vertically reciprocable needle 5a, mounted on the arm 2a of the upper support portion and cooperating with a turntable 5b of the type described in copending application Ser. No. 328,938 for producing the buttonhole seams. While this structure is amply described in the latter application, it may be mentioned that the linear or essentially linear edges or portions of a buttonhole seam are formed by displacing the table 3 substantially linearly whereas the eye or oval extremities of the buttonhole are formed by rotating the turntable 5b and the needle assembly 5a cooperating therewith through an angle of up to 180 at each end of the buttonhole. The composite movements of turntable 5b and table 3 permit buttonholes of any desirable configuration to be formed with ease.
  • the stitch-forming means 5 is swingable about the vertical axis XX (FIG. 1) and includes a stitching plate 6 having a needle passage 7 aligned with the needle and a bore 8 through which the gimp G is supplied directly to the stitching location 7.
  • the detailed construction of the stitch plate and the gimpfeed means at the stitch-forming location is fully described in application Ser. No. 328,938.
  • the upperand underthreads are also supplied to the stitching location in the manner described in this copending application although these threads have not been shown in FIGS. 1 and 3 to avoid obscuring the structural elements necessary to a clear picture of the present invention.
  • a bladeactuating mechanism is also provided and includes an angularly oscillatable shaft 123, journaled in the housing 1, and normally held by the torsion spring 169 in a rest position corresponding to the open position of the blade members.
  • An actuating lever for the shaft 123 is provided at 126 while a spring 128 couples this lever with a pedal or other operating element which may be tripped by the operator to initiate the thread-severing operation.
  • the motion of shaft 123 is transmitted, via a pivotal arm 133 to a pair of slides 135, 138 which control a swingable lever 147; the latter, in turn, operates a pair of arms 151, 153 by means of which motion is transmitted to the blades 18 and 19 via the pins 154- and 152.
  • the table is again moved forwardly at the commencement of operation of the apparatus.
  • the blades 118 and 113 are positioned (FIG. 2) to sever both the gimp G and the underthread U directly at the buttonhole seam at the conclusion of the stitch-forming operation thereby eliminating any need for additional operations to remove excessively long tails.
  • Shaft 114 drives via respective transmission gears, a pair of cams 1% and 114 which control the movement of the table 3 and the turntable of the stitchforming means.
  • the clutch means 13 is provided with an actuating element 17, 22 extending from a forward location on the machine, at which it is accessible to the operator, to a rearward location proximal to the vertical axial plane of the shaft 14.
  • This actuating element is pivotally mounted in a trunnion 20 upon the fabriccarrying table 3 and is provided with an arm 22 which extends generally parallel thereto, while its longitudinal extension or shank 22 runs rearwardly along the plate to the region of the clutch means 13.
  • An arm 23 of the actuating lever 17 serves as a handle manipulable by the operator for displacing the actuating lever and thereby tripping the clutch 13 to commence operation of the machine.
  • the lever 17 also is provided with an arm 24 which is connected with the clutch and permits a substantial clockwise movement (FIG. 1) of the lever 17 in its trunnion 20 before the clutch is triggered.
  • Gimp-feed system The gimp cord G passes from a supply spool 19, mounted upon a pedestal 19' of a stand 19" rearwardly of the machine via a central unwinding guide 1% and a pair of additional guides 19b and 19c through a pair of eyelets 28 and 29 of the gimp-preparing device 18 which serves to form a loop of the gimp cord before feeding it through the gimp-clamping means 25; the latter is disposed forwardly along the feed path of the gimp thread but rearwardly of stitch plate 6 and the bore 8.
  • the gimp-clamping means 25 will be described in greater detail hereinafter.
  • Gimp-preparation means The arm 22 is so disposed that it lies between the eyelets 28 and 29 while the gimp thread passes over it so that, upon initial movement of lever 17 and the swinging of arm 22 and its shank 22' in the clockwise direction, the gimp G is lifted between these eyelets and withdrawn from the spool 19 via eyelet 28.
  • a loop or supply of the gimp cord in an untensioned state is provided between the supply spool 19 and the gimp-clamping means 25.
  • the motion of the arm 22, 22' which serves to prepare the loop of gimp cord behind the clamping means is the lost motion of the actuating element prior to the tripping of the clutch means 13 thereby.
  • the loop of gimp thus lies on the table 3 and permits the free end of the gimp at the stitching location (upon movement of the table into stitch-forming position) to be stitched into the initial bead and the subsequent buttonhole in a tensionless state.
  • the eyelets through which the gimp passes are mounted upon or integral with an L-shaped member 30 whose flange 30 is bolted at 30 to the upstanding portion 2 of the support while its horizontal portion 38 lies parallel to the table 30.
  • the shank 22' of arm 22 lies between the eyes 28 and 29 upon this horizontal portion 30a of member 30 which extends generally transversely to the path of the gimp and the shank of the bar.
  • the gimp G passes over the shank 22 and is in contact therewith at 27 so that an elevation of shank 22', upon clockwise movement (FIG.
  • lever 17 will draw the gimp between the eyes 28 and 29 into an upstanding loop, Upon the downward movement of the shank 22 (corresponding to the counterclockwise swing of actuating lever 17), a loop is formed at 26 in readiness for the buttonhole-stitching operation and the initial movement of the table 3 which commences only subsequently to the formation of this loop.
  • the gimp-feed means also comprises a clamping means 25 whose purpose is to ensure that, during operation of the gimp-preparation element (i.e. arm 22) through the gimp is drawn from the supply spool 19 and not away from the stitching position of the table.
  • the clamping means thus locks the gimp G to the table and does not, during preparation of the loop of gimp cord, permit withdrawal of the free extremity of this cord through the clamp.
  • the clamping means has, however, another function which will become more readily apparent from the following description of its operation, namely the withdrawal or retraction of the free end of the gimp, to a limited extent upon the severing of the gimp from the buttonhole.
  • the gimp clamp 25 comprises a rockable clamping plate 33 (FIGS. 2, 4 and 5) and a clamp-control mechanism generally designated 34 (FIGS. 1 and 4) which includes latch means for locking the clamp in engagement with the gimp and for rocking it out of engagement with the latter.
  • the clamping plate 33 (FIGS. 2 and 4) is generally rectangular sheet-metal plate bent to an obtuse angle substantially along a median line parallel its longitudinal edges.
  • the plate 33 is integrally formed with projections or arms 35 and 36, the former serving to clamp the gimp G against the upper surface of the fabric-carrying plate 3 (FIG. 5), while the latter arm cooperates with the control mechanism 34 for imparting swinging movement to the plate 33.
  • Plate 33 is formed with a pair of frustoconically countersunk bores 42 (one which is shown in FIG. 5) along the bend line of plate 33 (FIG. 2). These bores receive respective screws 39 which constitute part of the mounting means for rockably aflixing the plate 33 to the table 3.
  • the plate 33 can be provided with more or less play with respect to the upper surface of plate 3, thereby permitting the clamp to accommodate gimp cords G of different thickness.
  • the clamping stress applied to the cord can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the screws.
  • Arm 36 at the outward end of plate 33 is bent downwardly at an obtuse angle to the plate and is receivable within a slot-shaped mouth 43 of a double arm lever 44.
  • Lever 44 is swingably mounted upon the fabric-carrying table 3 by a pivot 45.
  • the lever 44 When the lever 44 is swung downwardly at its mouth 43 (clockwise in FIG. 4), the projection 36 is engaged in the mouth 43 and entrained downwardly by lever 44 so that the plate 33 tends to swing about its fulcrum 38 and clamp the gimp. The gimp is thus firmly held in place beneath arm 35 of plate 33.
  • the clamp-control means comprises latching means in the form of a lever 62 for locking lever 44 in its extreme clockwise position, i.e. latching the clamp in engagement with the gimp.
  • the lever 44 is provided with a cam-follower means in the form of a roller journaled upon a pin 52 and engageable with a cam means 46 in the path of this roller when the table 3 is shifted to the left (FIG. 4).
  • I For the opening of the gimp clamp 25, I provide a second cam means 47 adapted to swing the lever 44 indirectly in the counterclockwise sense (FIG. 4).
  • the cam means 47 operates via the latch means 62.
  • the latter is a further double-arm lever whose hooked extremity 64 is engageable with an abutment 44 adjacent the mouth 43 of lever 44.
  • the lever 62 is pivotally mounted at 63 on the fabric-carrying plate 3 and is provided with a roller 61) upon its arm 62 for engagement with the cam 67 of camming means 47.
  • Roller 60 thus constitutes a cam-follower journaled upon a bolt 61.
  • I To adjust the cam 67 with respect to the point in which the clamp plate 33 will release the cam, I provide a support arm 48 (FIGS.
  • a spring means 65 which bears upon a pressure pin 66 shiftable in the bore 65 of lever 44.
  • the pin 66 bears against the arm 62' of lever 62 and thus tends to urge this lever in the counterclockwise sense.
  • the gimp clamp 25 latches at the end of the previous buttonhole-stitching operation since the cam-follower roller 51, at the conclusion of the stitching cycle and during the return movement of the fabric-carrying table 3 to its starting position, is held up by the cam 49.
  • Lever 44 is thereby swung in a clockwise sense about its pivot 45 while the pressure pin 66 has swung the latching lever 62 in the counterclockwise sense into engagement with the abutment 44.
  • the gimp G is held in place during the lost-motion or gimp-preparation stroke of the actuating element 17.
  • clutch 13 is tripped and sets the automatic cycle in operation.
  • the relative movement of the gimp clamp and the stitching position during this initial period of operation of the drive means is the amount of the total forward stroke of the turntable necessary to return the gimp to the stitching location and corresponds essentially to the displacement of the table 3 after the conclusion of the previous stitching operation.
  • cam surface 49' is swung away from roller 51 SO that lever 44 can be urged in the counterclockwise sense by spring 65 to lift the plate 33 from the gimp.
  • a new gimp thread G can then be introduced and the handle 59 released.
  • the lever 44 is thus swung clockwise and brings the lever 62 into latching engagement to hold the clamp means closed.
  • buttonshole K After stitching of the buttonhole K, the latter is cut through as described in application Ser. No. 431,319.
  • an automatic buttonhole-stitching machine comprising support means, a fabric-carrying table longitudinally shiftable upon said support means, stitch-forming means on said support means co-operating with said table for stitching a buttonhole upon a fabric carried thereby, drive means connected with said table and said stitchforming means and actuatable for displacing said table from a starting position relative to said stitch-forming means into a stitching position wherein the sewing of a buttonhole is commenced and for operating said stitchforming means and said table to form the buttonhole and 10 for hereafter returning said table to said starting position, and an actuating element shiftably mounted on said support means and operatively connected with said drive means for actuating same following an initial movement of said element prior to energization of said drive means, the combination therewith of:
  • gimp-preparation means along said path including said element and effective upon displacement of said element prior to actuation of said drive means for drawing a length of gimp from said supply means and disposing it loosely at said gimp-preparation means;
  • gimp-clamping means on said table between said gimppreparation means and said stitch-forming means for clamping the free end of said gimp upon conclusion of a buttonhole-stitching operation and during operation of said gimp-preparation means but thereafter releasing said gimp for incorporation of the prepared length thereof in the buttonhole.
  • said actuating element is an actuating lever swingably mounted on said support means and includes a shank rigid with said lever and directly engageable with the gimp, said gimp-preparation means further comprising a pair of eyes disposed on opposite sides of said shank and having said gimp threaded through them whereby displacement of said lever and said shank entrains the gimp between said eyes to form a loop of the gimp.
  • control means includes latch means for releasably holding said clamping means in engagement with the gimp, and cam means co-operating with said latch means for releasing same to free the gimp for further movement.
  • said clamping means include a rockable clamping plate car ried by said table and adapted to clamp the gimp thereagainst
  • said control means including a lever pivotally mounted upon said table and operatively connected with said plate for rocking same, said latch means being releasably engageable with said lever, further cam means engageable with said lever for displacing same into a latched position in which said plate retains said gimp, and adjusting means for relatively displacing the first-mentioned and said further cam means with respect to said table in the direction of displacement thereof.
  • said clamping means further comprises mounting means rockably connecting said plate with said table, said plate having an obtuse-angled bend and being provided with a plurality of upwardly diverging frustoconical recesses along the bend, said mounting means including respective generally spheroidal rings received in said recesses and screw means affixing said rings to said table.
  • said plate has a downwardly extending projection, said lever having a notch receiving said projection and an abutment, said latch means including a latch lever having a hook engageable with said abutment, said control means further comprising spring means bearing upon said levers for urging said hook toward said abutment, said levers each being provided with respective cam-follower rollers engageable with the respective cam means.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US467438A 1964-08-26 1965-06-28 Gimp-feed mechanism for buttonholestitching machines Expired - Lifetime US3274962A (en)

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DED0045278 1964-08-26

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US467438A Expired - Lifetime US3274962A (en) 1964-08-26 1965-06-28 Gimp-feed mechanism for buttonholestitching machines

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US (1) US3274962A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
AT (1) AT272816B (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
BE (1) BE667481A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
GB (1) GB1060888A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
NL (1) NL6510001A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
SE (1) SE219127C1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4181083A (en) * 1977-12-30 1980-01-01 Elitex, Koncern Textilniho Strojirenstvi Mechanism for controlling the workpiece pressure grippers of buttonhole bar tacker sewing machines

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US271666A (en) * 1883-02-06 Chusetts
US757463A (en) * 1903-06-03 1904-04-19 Nat Machine Co Thread-cutting device for sewing-machines
US1330555A (en) * 1915-10-28 1920-02-10 United Shoe Machinery Corp Buttonhole-sewing machine
US1787928A (en) * 1928-09-24 1931-01-06 Reece Button Hole Machine Co Sewing machine
US2324235A (en) * 1941-01-31 1943-07-13 Joseph H Pikul Buttonhole sewing machine
US2778329A (en) * 1954-05-27 1957-01-22 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Looper with removable thread wire

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US271666A (en) * 1883-02-06 Chusetts
US757463A (en) * 1903-06-03 1904-04-19 Nat Machine Co Thread-cutting device for sewing-machines
US1330555A (en) * 1915-10-28 1920-02-10 United Shoe Machinery Corp Buttonhole-sewing machine
US1787928A (en) * 1928-09-24 1931-01-06 Reece Button Hole Machine Co Sewing machine
US2324235A (en) * 1941-01-31 1943-07-13 Joseph H Pikul Buttonhole sewing machine
US2778329A (en) * 1954-05-27 1957-01-22 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Looper with removable thread wire

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4181083A (en) * 1977-12-30 1980-01-01 Elitex, Koncern Textilniho Strojirenstvi Mechanism for controlling the workpiece pressure grippers of buttonhole bar tacker sewing machines

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Publication number Publication date
AT272816B (de) 1969-07-25
SE219127C1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1968-02-20
NL6510001A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1966-02-28
GB1060888A (en) 1967-03-08
BE667481A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1965-11-16

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