US2670701A

US2670701A - Shoe sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US2670701A
Application number: US79484A
Authority: US
Inventors: Ashworth Fred; Joseph R Ioannilli
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Current assignee: United Shoe Machinery Corp
Priority date: 1949-03-03
Filing date: 1949-03-03
Publication date: 1954-03-02
Anticipated expiration: 1971-03-02
Also published as: FR1096762A; DE1011703B; GB746389A

Description

Mardi 2,1954 F. AsHwoRTH r-:rm 2,670,701

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed larch 3, 1949 9 sheets-sheet 1 l 3,l1 wentom i @7 Fred Ashworth u: mep/LR. Joannizzi March 2, 1954 F. Asl-lwoRTH ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINE e sheets-sheet s Filed 'March s. 1949 Inventors Y Fred Ashworth MWh-2, 1954 F. ASHW'RTH Erm. 2,670,701

SHOE SEWING MACHINE 9 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed March 3, 1949 Inventors Fred Ashworth Y Josep/L R Icann/lli SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 5. 1949 9 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fred Ashworth Josep/z R oannilli F. ASHWORTH ETAL March 2, 1954 SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 5. 1949 la 7@ 74"?2 70 74 `77 2a Josep/LR foanmllli March 2, 1954 F. AsHwoRTH ETAM.

SHQE slams i 3 n 7 2. d MW, .u .wd [am 1| m F fm 3 2 m 4. 49,. W 07.5 V6/f my l 1 v AFiled March 5. 1949 6 Inventors Fred Ashworth Joseph R. foanmLLLi March 2, 1954 n F. AsHwoRTl-l ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filedv March s, 1949 9 Sheets-Sheet 8 [Iwenors Fec Ashworth JSep/L R. foannillzl March 2:,-1954 F. AsHwoRTH ET A1. 2,670,701

snor: SEWING MACHINE Filed March 5, 1949 9 Sheets-SheelI 9 Awl 4- Needle- Work .A l 2.52 e nig. 25 r 'si ,1, f f

j' l-ll/lanFeed V-Idle Shfl Needle dnd Awl 5 7* -'lr Feed l l-Min. Feed Presser Fool f L r l Lift Unlocked Presser Fool J`/`\ Lock Loop Spreader `\\r\ \elmllng Thread Controller Measuring Device Prevlous Sllch Sel Shullle f* I. r/,r

Open Thread Lock C osed (Front) Ogen Thread Lock Closed (Rear) l Ll Inventors Fred Ashworth Jos/Dh R oarmb'llzl Patented Mar. 2, 1954 `2,67o,7o`i "SHOE SEWING IVIHNE Ashworth; enham, oseph R.; Ioanlliillisiestpn; .Mass., assiepqrs, ,to United shoe Machineryprporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Appliti' March 3, 1949, sria1No.`79,4s4

The present invention, relates4 to sewing machines intended primarily Yfor the manufacture of shoes and moreparticularly to improvementsin a' hook needle lockstitch machine of the McKay type havinga rotaryshoe entering horn. Illustrative machines .of this type are disclosed in. United States Letters Patent No1. 1,885,921; granted November 1 1932011 application of B; 'IL Leveque and No. 2,331,118,v granted October 5, 1943 onapplication of J Gouldb ourn et al. and in an application for United States Letters Patent Serial l-l o; '732,903, filed March 6, 1947 in the name of H, Boothroyd .(now United States Letters Paten-t No. 2,525,858; granted October 1 '7,- 1950);

The machines of the patents above referred to, inaddition toa hookneedle, have a shuttle or loop taker at the saine sideof th'e Workas the needle and, at theoppositeideof the Work,.a take-up arid a needle threading device; within the tipi end or the'rotary horn. Inthe Gouldbourn machine thread measuring mechanism' also is provided for pulling from the supply an amount of thread sufficient' for each stitch.' In order to enable the needle to -be threaded and withdrawn from the Work without causing injury to the th-read as'. a result of sliding movemente ofthe thread inthe needle hook.,- particularly asithe threaded hook is moving through a tightttingperforation in the workv operatedV upon b y the patented niachines, the need-1e loop of each stitch formed previously to the' one process of formation Vis left untightened and is contractedftoproyide one side o f the expanding needle loop fo-r ,the stitch in process, the other side oli the' loop being provided by the takefup or threadmeasuringmechanism. During the withdremvall stroke. of the needle from the work the previousneed'le 1oop is contractedby drawingalong the underside ofthe Work the thread onneciineihe Stitch then beine farmed. andthe Stitch, preview-Sir formed- Ordinarilyythe portion of the undersurface ofthe work along which the connecting4 threadliesis engaged by the end ci the hQrnsothatfany sub-' stantialpressure ofLtheV work 'on the horn tendsr to-V grip the connectirle thread audio cause ir-` regularities intheffrictional dragV thereon asK the previously formed' needle vloep is; beingvr contracted. These irregularitires` are af troublesome cause ci faulty or nonuniform stitches:

To; avoid# substantial pressure oil* the work' on' the horn along the'under'surface'enga'gedby the connecting thread 'in prior machines;y the Worl` is cla-imacatn on the? herirby a'pr'ess'er foot acting along* tl'nredgeonhrk of thehorr'rend opposite the connecting thread and often the clamping action of thepresser footisj relievedat critical timesto en'ablethe thread to slide freely between the Work andthe horn.

Tdfeed the workafter each needle loop is drawn through the; work a feed point or awl jis provided in the prior machines, acting on the Work Aalong the lineof feed between the presser foot Aand the point of needle Aoperation topierce the worhastitch length ahead of vthe point of needle operation Vand to carryV the perforation formedhy the feed point or awl into` line ywith theneedle path. Accordingly, v it is possible ,to clamp the work no closer to the needle than the length of a stitch so thatsufcient space for the aWl or, feed point is maintained. For thisV reason alsothewolk isclamped along one edge Aonly of the work eng aging Vend 0f the horn and in some instances when long stitches are being sewn the presser f oot must be located entirely beyond the edge of the horn end. It is therefore necessary for theoperator of the prior machines to hold the'work more securely against tilting movef ment on the horn than would be required if a better worltv clampingaction were provided by locating the presser fo ot directly opposite the Work engaging end ofthe horn. 4

lt is an object of. the present invention vto simplify the construction and to improvej the mode of operation ina shoe sole sewing machine of the type above referred v to andtoso arrange the worl clamping and feeding devices that aV ShQe 4beine operatedupon may be presented t0 the sewing devicesj and directed during operation c f the machine more easily than heretofore and inv a mannerwhichwill be .conducive to accurate spacingof the stitches While retaining ,all of, the advantages Ofthread handling precedures at,- tainabl-,e in the prio-r patented machines. A further @bienv Ozf' theinvention is,v toiprovidea nevel and cffectiveconstructiqn of McKaytype shoe sewing machine capable ci. operation athigh Speeds; in which the;Visibilityattthehont ,of sewingoperations,is'gr'eater than in machines of similar construction and in whichthe: parts are less subject to1 brealage, Wear, irregularityjn operation or the' necessity of frequent adjustmeflt.' v Y In its preferred'form the machine' constructed according to` ther .features of the presenti ini/ene tiomincludes ahook needle and a presser fo'o't at one side` of the' work. and a rotary shoejentering horrr at the other side of'thewo'rk 'cli the' needle'is actuatedto withdraw 1" t d nook. 'tromitheinto the suus-tance of Sole or other work and thereafter to be shifted the length of a stitch while still engaging the sole to feed the shoe sole. With such an arrangement it is possible to locate the presser foot directly over that portion of the sole engaged by the end of the horn so that firm clamping action is obtained during the formation and setting of each stitch. By actuating the needle to shift the shoe a stitch length after being withdrawn from the horn the thread of each stitch being formed is acted upon the same distance from the point of clamping engagement of the presser foot as in prior machines except that the connecting thread between the stitch in process of formation and the previous stitch is further away from the center of the horn than heretofore by a stitch length. As a result, there is less tendency to clamp the thread connecting the last two stitches between the work and the horn and consequently to insert irregular stitches. Another advantage of such arrangement is that it enables a large sized shuttle or loop taker for forming lock stitches to be located at the side of the needle with the completed stitches of the seam, particularly when the shuttle is employed to set each stitch as in the machines of the patents above referred to.

To relieve the strain of the work feeding needle as it penetrates the work, the shoe sole is pierced, in the illustrated machine, by an awl mounted for movement along the line of feed in fixed spaced relation to the needle. The awl in the illustrated machine serves only to pierce the sole against the support of the horn. To enable feeding movement of the needle to be adjusted conveniently, in this. feature of the machine, the needle has imposed on it an idle lateral movement along the line of feed after it disengages the work. The needle is spaced along the line of feed a fixed distance from the awl more than the length o a stitch and the idle lateral movement of the needle makes up the difference between the length of the stitch and the spacing between the needle and awl. With such Yarrangement the feeding movement of the needle may be increased or decreased without necessitating a change in the fixed spacing distance between the needle and awl, as required in the machine of the Gouldbourn et al. patent.

In the patented machines it is necessary to employ a take-up for pulling each needle loop off the shuttle with its stroke sunicient to take up and give up thread in an amount corresponding with the size of the shuttle, the take-up requiring accurate timing and coordination with the movements of the shuttle. Accurate timing of the take-up with the movements of the shuttle in a rotary horn type of machine presents a dinicult mechanical problem due to the lengths of the connections required to actuate the respective devices. The longer the connections the heavier they become and the greater are the effects of lost motion and yield in disturbing the accuracy of timing between the actuated devices. For like reason, the larger the shuttle the greater must be the movements of the take-up and the more diicult still are the coordination problems.

An important object of the invention therefore is to eliminate from a shoe sole sewing machine of the type under consideration, the usual takeup for pulling each needle loop oi the shuttle, and even to avoid entirely the necessity of utilizing a regular take-up in this type of machine. With the elimination of such a take-up the problem of coordinating and timing the operation of the take-up accurately with relation to the movements of the shuttle no longer presents any diniculty. Accordingly, a shuttle may be employed which is large enough to carry the needle loop about a locking thread supply of any desired capacity within practical limits. To this end, the machine of the present invention is equipped with a multiple beak shuttle or loop taker acting to draw each loop of thread through the work while a previously formed loop of thread is retained on another beak of the shuttle. The use of a multiple beak shuttle enables the loop previously formed to be controlled while being contracted at a rate determined by the extension of the succeeding loop, the thread being drawn from the previously formed loop through the work and along the undersurface of the work where it engages the horn. In this way the shuttle or loop taker acts as its own take-up.

In the operation of the shuttle in the present machine, each beak is brought into position for reception of a loop of thread in regular sequence. For this purpose the illustrated shuttle is driven by a gear train at a rate less than one complete rotation during each sewing cycle and in order to coordinate the movements of the shuttle with the other stitch forming devices, in this feature of the machine, a variable speed device is employed in the gear train to accelerate the shuttle as each beak receives its loop and to decelerate the shuttle thereafter. The use of a variable speed device is particularly effective in a hook needle sewing machine to enable proper timing of the other stitch forming devices. Furthermore, this feature of the invention cooperates in an advantageous manner with the feature embodied in the needle feed since with the needle feed each stitch being formed is carried away from the end of the horn where the work clamping pressure is being exerted and the pull on the thread exerted by the shuttle tends t0 lift the work and facilitate sliding movement of the thread along the underside of the work between the horn and the work. Also, if a shuttle of greater diameter than usual is employed the pull of the thread exerted thereby has a component which assists the feed and facilitates easy movement of the work through the machine.

While the two features of the invention relating to the needle feed and the multiple beak shuttle mutually contribute to the production of a particularly beneficial result when embodied in a McKay type rotary horn machine, these features are not so limited in their application but may be employed to advantage in other than horn type machines and in machines utilizing devices other than the needle for feeding the work and equipped with shuttles or loop takers other than those of the multiple beak type.

These and other features of the invention including novel means for controlling each needle loop as it is being disengaged from the shuttle, an improved form of thread case, a readily adjustable feed actuating mechanism, and a simplied and improved construction of needle and awl mounting as hereinafter described and claimed, will become apparent from the following detailed specication taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of the upper portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a view in right side elevation of the sewing head of the machine of Fig. l on an enlarged scale partly broken away with the frame the horn to clear the horn during lateral needle movement and is detained while engaging the shoe within the substance of the shoe sole as it is shifted laterally away from the needle receiving opening in the horn the length of a stitch.

The needle and'awl carriers 4 and I0 are in the form of bowed arms provided with elongated hubs supported to oscillate about the same axis within tubular bearings I8 and 20,best shown in Figs. 16, 17 and 18. The outer ends of the bearings are clamped to the machine frame by bolts 22 (Fig. 2) andthe bearing I8 has laterally extending ears between which is fulcrumed a fork ended feed lever 24 (see Figs. 19, 20 and 2l). The fork end of the lever 24 surrounds a block 26 rotatably mounted on a pivot 28 clamped in one end of an eye-headed spindle 30 passing through the hubs of the needle and awl -carrier arms 4 and I0, the arms being retained against relative movement lengthwise of the spindle. By this construction the needle and awl are mounted with a fixed spacing between each other along the line of work feed at a distance at least the length of the longest stitch which the machine is called upon to insert.

The mechanisms for actuating the feed lever 24 comprise a link 32 pivotally connected at 33 to the rearward arm of the feed lever. At its other end the link 32 is connected by a central pivot 34 to a pair of links 3B and 38. The link 36 comprises a part of an adjustable feed mechanism which imparts the actual work feeding movements to the needle. To provide adjustment for the feeding mechanism the link 36 has secured in it a bolt 4I!` clamped within an arcuate slot 42 in an arm 44 secured to a vertical shaft 46.. The shaft 4B is'rotatably mounted in the machine frame and in turn has secured to it a cam arm 48 provided with a roll 58 engaging a slot 52 in a cam 54. The cam 54 is fixed to a vertical cam shaft 56 rotating in unison with a main sewing shaft l58. The curavture of the arcuate slot 42 in the arm 44 is such that it is concentric with the central pivot 34 when the needle moves into alinement with the awl perforation and4 while the needle is in its fully fed position. When the bolt 40 is loosened and moved along the slot 42 it increases or decreases the -effective length of the lower arm of lever 44 and varies the shifting movement of the needle while in engagement with the work.

After the needle has been withdrawn from engagement with the work with its loop of thread it is shifted idly with a lateral movement along the line of feed by an amount corresponding to that required to enable the awl to be moved into alinement with the needle opening in the horn. For this purpose the central pivot 34 is moved at the proper time substantially into alinement with the bolt 45 and the pivot 33 as in Fig. 2l. This movement into alinement of the bolt and pivots occurs regardless of the position of the bolt 4U in the slot 42 so that the needle and awl always are enabled to enter the Work at the same location above the needle receiving opening in the horn a stitch length from the previously formed perforation, the curvature of the slot 42 being again concentric to the pivot 34 at this time. Thus, with the bolt 4t adjusted in the slot 42 to a position at the outer end of the slot and with the cam levers 44, 48 in the positions of Fig. 21, so that the awl is moved into alinement with the needle opening in the horn, the path of the needle point describes an outline similar to that indicated at BIJ in Fig. 22. The path 6u shows no idle lateral movement-of theneedle and all of the lateral movement occurs while the threaded needle hook is detained within the substance of theiwork in the Aform ofA a shoe sole 62. If the bolt 4i) is adjusted to an intermediate position as in Fig. 21 along the slot 42 the path of the needle point will be similar to that indicated at 64. In moving along this path the needle withdraws from the opening in the horn, is detained along the portion 86 of the path, is withdrawn from the sole B2 and is shifted idly along the seam line out of engagement with the sole through the portion 68 of the path E4 to bring the awl into alinement with the needle opening in the horn for a new stitch. The length of the slot 42 is made sufficient to take care of the maximum desired length of stitch.

For maintainingthe needle and awl carriers with a uniform fixed spacing between each other along the line of feed, adjacent faces of the needle and awl carrier arms are retained in engagement with each other and the hubs of the arms are out away to receive a perforated spacer 10 having radial openings 12 (see Figs. 17 and 18). The spacer is mounted on the spindle 30 and has laterally projecting lugs 'I4 entering slots in a pair of sleeves 'I6 and 'l disposed between the spindle 35 and the hubs of the carrier arms 4 and I0. The sleeve 'I6 is internally threaded to engage threads formed near the eye-headed end of the spindle 30. The other end of the spindle is threaded for a pair of check nuts 'i8 which act to clamp the two sleeves against the spacer and retain the spindle, sleeves and spacer in fixed position relatively to each other. The sleeves 1E, 'Il also are provided with flanges at their outer extremities, engaging loosely with the hubs of the carrier arms, so that when the Sleeves are clamped against the spacer the carrier arms are free to turn. When the check nuts 'I8 are loosened the threaded sleeve 'I6 may be rotated by engaging a pin wrench within one of the radial holes in the spacer, thus changing the alinement of the needle and awl with the opening in the end of the horn 6.

To actuate the needle and awl toward and from the horn to cause the awl to pierce the Work and the needle to enter the awl perforation, the needle and awl carrier arms 4 and I0 are formed with laterally projecting

lugs

80, 82 engaged by radial slots projecting from the hubs of a pair of cam levers 84 and 86. The hubs of the cam levers 84 and 36 are rotatably mounted on the outside surfaces of the bearings I8 and 20, respectively. 'I'he cam levers have rolls engaging slots at opposite sides of a cam 88 secured to the main sewing shaft 58. The arrangement of the lugs `8l) and 82 in the slots of the

levers

84 and 86 enables the carrier arms to move laterally in the direction of feed while being actuated toward and from the horn.

To reinforce the needle against the lateral thrust of the work While the needle is shifted to feed the work, the needle is acted upon close to its point of engagement with the work by an arm 89 through which passes a stud 9B rotatably mounted in the needle carrier arm I0. The arm 89 is formed in two parts secured together, in one of which the stud 90 is secured and which has an upwardly projecting finger slidably engaging the left side of the needle carrier arm I0. The other part of the arm 89 has a forwardly projecting portion engaging the needle on the right side and moves along the needle during entry of the needleinto the work. The needle engaging arm is yieldingly maintained in a position close tothe needle hook While the needle is disengaged from the work. To holdv the needle engaging arm 89 in this position the arm is connected by a tension spring 92 stretched between the arm and the needle carrier arm I0. To limit the movement of the needle engaging arm 89A it carries a set screw 94, the head of which engages the carrier arm I when the needle is disengaged from the work. As the needle approaches thework, the arm 89 contacts a step surface 95 (see Figs. 22 and 23) on the presser foot I4 which holds the arm 89 stationary during the continued Work entering movement of the needle.

As has been stated, the illustrated machine is equipped at the side of thev work with the needle, with amultiple beak shuttle or loop taker,A best shown at 90 in Figs. 6 and 7.. The shuttle 98 has four beaks formed by slots cut between driving teeth |00 about the outside circular edge of the shuttle. The formation of the slots between the teeth constitutes what is commonly known as a deep tooth shuttle or loop taker and enables the thread ina needle loop passing over the shuttle to ride beneath the teeth of a driver gear |02 (Figs. 3 and 4) engaging the teeth |010 on the shuttle without contacting the driver gear. The multiple beaks on the shuttle enable one beak to receive a loop of thread from the needle while another beak retains control of the previously formed loop of thread in regular sequence. The shuttle 98 is of a size substantially larger than those employed in the patents above referred to, so that a much greater than usual quantity of locking thread may be contained within a locking thread supply case |03 about which the shuttle carries each needle loop. The shuttle is arranged to be rotated less than a complete revolution during each sewing cycle through a speed reducing gear train, described more fully hereinafter, with a driving ratio proportional to the number of beaks on the shuttle less one, to the Whole number of beaks. By so doing each beak is brought to a position for reception of a loop of thread from the needle successively. Thread for the loop'being extended by the shuttle during formation of each stitch also will draw from the loop of thread previously formed and being carried down from the top of the shuttle where it already has passed a position of maximum extension.

The operation of the shuttle in drawing thread from a previous needle loop into a stitch which is in the process of being formed with its loop being extended is' illustrated in Figs. 12 to 15, inclusive. In these figures a needle loop f 04 of a stitch in the process of being formed is extended sufficiently to engage a beak of the shuttle in Fig. 12. The preceding loop of the previously formed stitch is indicated at |06 andis contracted somewhat from the position of maximum extension after passing the high part of. the* shuttle but the loop |06 is still retained, by means to be described, from disengagement with the shuttle. As the loop |04 in process is being enlarged (Fig. 13) the preceding loop |06 is contracted still further by movement of the thread upwardly through the work, along the undersurface of the work in that portion |08 of the thread passing between the stitch being formed and the previously formed stitch. During this timethe awl 2 starts to move downwardly toward the work and in Fig. 14 is shownafter the work has beenpierced and the awl has started to be withdrawn.y

When the position ofthe shuttle of Fig. 14 is reached the preceding needle loop |06 is' contracted sufficiently to escape from itsbeak on the shuttle and after the position of Fig. 15 is reached the preceding needle loop is tightened and drawn into the work toset the stitch by the still enlarging loop |04 of thread as it reaches the position of maximum extension on the shuttle. Thereafter the loop 04 passes diametrically across the center of the shuttle and surrounds the supply of locking thread to complete the formation of the stitch in process.

The manipulation` of each needle loop, while forming and setting a stitch, take place with a minimum of movements in the thread through the horn particularly while each needle loop is being passed over the thread supply case by the.y shuttle. Thus, the time of engagement of the thread over guide members in the horn and through the work engaging the end of the horn. is substantially reduced and is lessy than in ma.- chines of the patents noted above in which a take-up is employed to draw each needle loop.` from the shuttle. The principal thread movement in the present machine occurs only in the loops of thread engaging the shuttle so that no take-up action is required to control the thread for the shuttle.

To enable each new loop of thread to be drawn through the work by the needle, the forward side' of each loop, as it is drawn through the work by the needle, is furnished Vfrom the contracting previously formed looped of thread and the other side of the new loop is furnished from the supply payed out through the horn so that no slid-I ing movement occurs at any time in the needle hook. The amount of thread payed out through the horn in the illustrated machine issumcient only to furnish thread for the supply side only of each needle loop before the needle reaches the connected to a link |I4, in turn connected to a" cam lever H6. The cam lever ||6"has a roll engaginga cam on a shaft H8, corresponding tov the shaft 31 of Patent No. 2,331,118. The vshaft 31 of Patent No. 2,331,118 is identified in that patent as a take-up actuating shaft and is arranged to actuate a take-up for giving up and taking up thread in full amount for the passage of each needle loop about the shuttle. For that purpose, the mechanism 'actuated by the shaftv of the patent moves its take-up arm through a relatively large stroke. The present thread controller is distinguishable from the take-up` in the said prior patent by the relatively short full stroke of the present controller which isl suflicient only to furnish less than half the thread needed from the time the needle is threaded until it reaches theV top of its stroke at the end of its movement away from the work. There-A after, the thread yielding movement of the controller is terminated.`

In order to retract the thread payed vout by.- the thread controller after the threaded needle I has Withdrawn from the work so that the controller may again pay out a similar length of thread for the needle stroke of the succeedingv stitch, the illustrated thread controller is actuated to retract thread as soon as a shuttle beak engages a spread loop and the needle is disengaged therefrom. The thread retracting movement of the thread controller takes place during the time each loop of thread moves from its position of engagement with the shuttle (Fig. 12) to a position of maximum extension (Fig. l) about the shuttle and thread case. Thus, the retracting movement of the illustrated thread controller is relatively short as compared with a full scale taking up action required by the takeup arm of the patented machine, all the thread required by the enlarging loop engaged by the shuttle in the present machine being drawn from the preceding loop |06 of thread, contracting it until it is drawn into the work and until the stitch formed thereby is set (Feb. l5).

To open each loop of needle thread for the shuttle the machine is provided with a loop spreader (see Figs. 2 and 12). The spreader |20 is in the form of an angular arm projecting downwardly and forwardly from a diametrically arranged socket |2| at the left end of a spreader shaft |22 within which socket the spreader is clamped. The forward end of the spreader is forked and arranged to engage the side of the loop carried by the needle which extends to the preceding loop of thread on the shuttle. Accordingly, when the spreader engages the thread its draws thread from the preceding loop and not from the needle. Thus, it is unnecessary to provide thread from the horn to supply the needle loop while being spread.

The spreader shaft |20 is mounted at an angle to the line of feed with its right end directed rearwardly of the machine and is rotatable in a bearing in the machine frame. At the right end of the spreader shaft is clamped an arm |24 to the lower end of which is pivotally connected a link |26, in turn connected with a cam lever |28 engaging a cam on a shaft |30 rotating in unison with the main sewing shaft 58.

To provide suflicient time in each sewing cycle for operating the other stitch forming devices, particularly for looping the needle and for spreading each needle loop, the shuttle is accelerated as each beak receives a loop of thread and is decelerated after the loop carried thereby reaches a position of maximum extension. For this purpose the lshuttle is driven through a variable speed device in addition to its speed reducing gear train. For driving the shuttle the driver gear |02 has three-quarters the number of teeth on the shuttle and is secured to a driver shaft |32 (see Fig. 4) having xed to it a pinion |34 acting through a pair of serially meshing idler pinions |36 rotating on fixed stub shafts |30. The driver shaft |32 is rotatably mounted in bearings in the machine frame. The lower pinion |36 meshes with a driving spur gear |40 secured to a variable speed shaft |42 rotatable in the machine frame. rlhe variable speed shaft |42 has its rearward end clamped in a block |44 forming a driven arm for a drag link connection. The arm |44 is actuated through a driving crank |46 by a drag link |48 pivotally connected between the arm |44 and the crank |46. The crank |46 is secured to a constant speed shaft |50 rotating at the same speed as the main sewing shaft 58, corresponding to the shaft 237 of the Gouldbourn et al. patent. The arrangement is lsuch that the driver gear |02 which rotates the shuttle through SA of a revolution for each rotation of the constant speed shaft is lo cated between the variable speed gear and the shuttle so that the variable speed drive brings each beak of the shuttle successively into a position to receive a loop of thread held spread by the loop spreader and needle uniformly at relatively low speed. After reception of a loop of thread each beak is accelerated to carry the loop of thread engaged thereby about the shuttle and the locking thread supply case |03 mounted within the shuttle.

The locking thread supply case |03 is of hollow cylindrical construction and has a grooved circular side wall and a rear end wall |52, the remaining forward end of the threadv case being open to receive a supply of thread. One of the grooves |54 in the circular side wall forms a raceway for an internal rib on an annular split plate |56 attached to the rear of the shuttle for mounting the thread case rotatably within the shuttle (see Figs. 7 to l0, inclusive). In the other groove |58 of the thread case side wall is mounted an adjustable thread tension through which the thread passes on its way from a supply bobbin |60 toward the work. The supply b bbin |60 is grooved within the inner surface o its hub and is engaged by a pair of radially arranged spring-pressed plungers |62 mounted in a ferrule portion |64 of the thread case end wall. To guide the thread from the tension device, the thread case has a radial flange |66 projecting beyond its circular side wall into Overlapping relation with a thread engaging portion of the shuttle and the flange is formed with a slot |68 and a guide eye |10 at the Vouter edge of the flange. As each loop of needle thread carried by the shuttle reaches a position where it is being freedfrom the shuttle, it is cammed out of engagement therewith by the flange on the thread case.

The locking thread tension device is located in the groove |58 of the thread case and comprises an arcuate tension spring |12 engaging at one end the thread as it passes axially along the circular side wall of the thread case, the thread entering an opening |13 from the bobbin |60. To anchor the spring |12, the other `end is bent at right angles and enters a slot in the base of the groove |58 to keep the spring from sliding along the groove. The tension spring is retained in the groove |58 by an adjustable arcuate shield |14 having outwardly toed beveled ends entering oppositely disposed channels in the sides ofthe groove |58. The shield is retained in adjusted position along the groove |58 by the lateral pressure of one end of the shield remote from the tension spring which end is bifurcated to provide a yielding action. The solid end of the shield adjacent the tension spring overlies the spring and isV movable along the spring in its retaining channel to press the spring more firmly against the thread running from the bobbin |60 or to reduce the pressure on the thread.

To enable the portion of the thread case against which the thread is pressed by the tension spring to be renewed readily after excessive wear without replacing the entire thread case, the thread engages a removable wear block |16 (Fig. 11) mounted for sliding movement axially along the thread case side wall. The wear block |16 isl formed with an offset lug projecting radially from the circular side wall ofthe thread case to pro-'f |80 through which the thread is guided on its way to the guide eye in the thread case flange. To introduce the thread between the wear block and the tension spring |12 when applying a new thread supply, the wear block has a tongue |82 disposed in the opening |13 opposite the thread engaging end of the tension spring. In applying the thread to the thread case the thread is inserted endwise through the passage |18 and is pressed between the tongue |82 and the spring |12 laterally through the opening |13 from the inside of the thread case so that when tension is applied to the thread it will be drawn between the tongue and the spring.

The slot |80 is located in the lug of the wear block |16 in such position that it is brought into alinement with the slot in the flange |66 of the thread case when the wear block is moved into positionin the thread case side wall. To lock the wear block |16 in position it has grooves |83 along its outer surface disposed for alinement with the grooves |54, |58' of the thread case side wall so that when the tension spring |12 and the flange on the annular plate |56 t into the grooves of the thread case they enter the grooves |83 on the block. The block has a dovetail section ntting correspondingly shaped surfaces in the thread case side wall to resist outward thrust. To lock the block against inwardpres sure radially of the thread case the offset lug on the block is provided with radially flaring side edges fitting within an opening of similar outline inA the flange |65 of the thread case.

To prevent the thread case from rotating with the shuttle the' thread case side wall is notched at |84 and is provided with aperforation |86 in its flange |56. Alternately engaging the notch and perforation are the hooked end of retainer members in the form of a linger |88 (see Figs. 2 and 3) and a pin |90 secured to levers |92 and |94-, respectively.` The mechanisms for actuating the retainer members comprise the levers 92 and |94 which are fulcrurne'd on a pin |96 mounts ed in a cover |98 for the driver gear |02. The hubs of levers |92 and |94abut each other and are held from movement along the stud |96 by' lar sequence as the needle loop moves about the y thread case. To press the rolls 260 against'theii' respective cams the forked portions of the levers are acted upon by coil springs Zut compressed between the levers and the inside surface of the cover |98.

The cover |93 is shownvin Figs. 1, 2 and 3 and comprises a cupeshaped inem-ber provided with three lugs through which pass clamping screws 208 entering into threaded relation with the frame of the machine. For preventing entangle ment of the teeth in the driver'gear m2 within the cover' |98 in case of thread breakage, the gear |02 is formed with .an annular slot 2 it (see Fig. 4l

within which is disposed a thread repelling plateV 2| 2 (Fig. 3). The plate 2|2 is perforated and is clamped in place by one of the screws 203 which passes through the perforation between the cover and the frame. Theplate has its leading end beveled. at 2|5 to throw out threads or lecting in the slot 2 9.

To enable the bobbin readily to be removed from the thread case, the rear wall ofthe thread Acase has an opening 2|6 through which passes the lower forwardly bent end of an ejector 2H having an upwardly extending handle in a readily accessible position, The ejector is fulerumed on a slotted stud 2 |8 xed to the ejector and rotatable in a forked portion of the machine frame, within the forky of which the ejector moves. The slotted end of the stud is surrounded by the coils of a spring 220, one end of the spring being bent inwardly into the slot of the stud and the other end projecting outwardly to engage a pin on the forked portion of the machine frame. The spring 220 acts normally to hold the ejector away from the f thread case so that each. loop of needle thread may clear the ejector. To insure escape of each needle loop from the beak of the shuttle which carries it, and to prevent the loop from being carried by the same or another beak a second time about the thread case, the nange |66 on the thread case has a fiat outer surface and projects radiallyy downwardly beyond the outer edge of the shuttle from the thread case. Beyond the flat surface of the flange it is beveled to enable each needle loop as it is carried about the thread case to move smoothly inwardly of the machine toward the work. The inner stir face of the flange |55 is concave and nts closely with the outer forward convex surface of the shuttle with no substantial clearance between the parts. The lower left edge of the ilange is formed with a gradual helix, the inclination of the ilange edge to a radius of the'thread case being greaterV than the inclination of the slots forming the shuttle beaks. With a ilange having a lower edge of this shape each needle'loopas it is carried about the shuttle is cammed away from engage nient with its slot just as thebeak formed thereby brings the needle loop to a proper releasing position. I

To retain each needle loop within a slot of the shuttle at other times during rotation of the shut-1 tie, the shuttle rotates within a twospart raceway plate 222 (see Fig. 3) `fitting between' the annular plate |56 and a similar plate 224 in which the beaks of the shuttle are formed..A The raceway plate 222 extends from a positionjust beyond the point of entry for each needle loop into a slot behind a shuttle beak to a position at therother end of a cuteaway section of the plate through which the needle loops are discharged. p

To reduce the slack thread in each contracting needle loop Hlrand to maintain control of the contracting loop of. needle thread so that it will not be carried about the thread case by the shut'- tle a second time, the thread case retaining pin is retained in engagement with the perforation in the flange |86 on the thread case until. each contracting loop is dennitely brought into engagement with yit but the pin releases the thread. before substantial tension is applied. The' in preventing slack in each contracting loop of needle thread while it is being disengaged "from the shuttle and While thewhirl 8 is acting to lay the thread in the needle hook so that slight irregularities of timing orin lengths of thread inA the loops will have'no effect on the disengage ment of each loop of thread from the shuttle or otherwise in the formation of stitches, the flange |66 along its convex surface is engaged by an arcuate friction spring plate 226 secured at its upper end to a block 228 made fast to the frame of the machine. The lowerend of the plate 226 overlies the slot |68 in the flange |66 and is provided with an elongated perforation 233 to enable the thread to be inserted in the slot while applying a new supply of thread to the case |03. The plate 226 also is formed with an opening to admit the retainer pin |90 into the opening |86 of the thread case. As each loop of thread reaches a position of maximum extension on the shuttle, its forward side slides between the end of the plate 226 and the flange |66. Continued rotation of the shuttle carries the loop downwardly toward the retainer pin |90, the loop being contracted by pulling the rearward side of the loop running behind the shuttle. Pulling the rearward side of the loop as it approaches the retainer pin causes the loop to be drawn downwardly clear of the shuttle beaks as illustrated in Fig. 13. When the loop engages the retainer pin it is positivelyr released from engagement with the shuttle beak which carries it. In the meantime, the forward side of the contracting needle loop is detained frictionally in position between the plate 226 and the iiange |66. After engagement with the retainer pin the contracting loop |86 slides easily from between the plate and the flange on the thread case and the pin is moved to free the loop, as illustrated in Fig. 14. Thereafter, the loop |86 with the encircled locking thread is drawn tightly into the work by the loop |04 in reaching its position of maximum extension (Fig. 15).

It will be noted that the tension and pull on the thread applied by the shuttle is in a direction to lift the work slightly from the tip of the horn 6. The pull on the thread is exerted on the Work both by the retracting stroke of the needle and by the shuttle after the work has been fed at least a stitch length from the point at which the work is clamped by the presser foot I4 so that the portion of thread |88 connecting the stitch being formed 'with the preceding needle loop has reached a position where it will not be clamped against the upper end of the horn, the horn being cut away about the needle receiving opening at its upper end. The only other portion of thread engagingv the horn is that running from the needle receiving opening to the stitch being formed. Due to the upward pull of the thread. this portion of thread also is freed from clamping engagement between the work and the horn, the work lifting sufliciently from the horn tc free the thread.

One adfantage of providing a shoe entering horn type sewing machine with actuating mechanisms wherein the work is fed by the needle while the shuttleis setting each stitch resides in improved uniformity with which each stitch is set in the work. This follows from the ample timing allotments in each sewing cycle for the feed to be accomplished while the needle engages the work, the feed having been completed before the awl penetrates the work for a new stitch. By completing the feed before each stitch is set the shuttle acts directly on the stitch being set instead of through an uncertain Vfrictional resistance on thel thread between the shuttle and the stitch being set, the clamping action on the thread against the work engaging surface of the horn boing uncontrollable. By arranging the operation of the stitch forming de-V vices in this manner, an improved sewin T cycle results in which other motions imparted to the stitch forming devices may be accomplished with simple easily operated mechanisms in a manner not heretofore permissible by prior timing arrangements.

To reduce the amount of needle thread retracted through the work by the thread controller lever ||l and to measure sufficient thread from the supply to complete each stitch, a thread measuring device acting in accordance with the thickness of the work is provided and actuated to release its measured supply of thread to the thread controller after each needle loop has been engaged by the-shuttle or loop taker. The thread measuring device acts on the thread between the thread controller l0 and a wax pot 232 (see Fig. l) while the needle is being looped and comprises a pair of

thread locks

234 and 236 between which the thread is engaged by a pull-off arm 238 (see also Fig. 24). The pull-off arm 238 is actuated by mechanism under the control of the presser foot while engaging the work, which mechanism is similar to the mechanism for actuating the pull-01T lever 417 of Patent No. 2,331,- 118. The thread locks 234 and 236 are also actuated by mechanism similar to that employed by the thread locks 455 and 457 of that patent.

In the present machine, both thread locks are closed while each loop of needle thread is being drawn through the work by the needle. After the needle loop is spread and disengaged from the needle and loop spreader the front look 234 is opened to release the measured thread, the thread pull-off arm 238 having already moved to provide slack thread between the thread locks. The thread controller retracts from the thread measuring device only a part of the thread required by one side of the needle loop as it is dra-wn through the work by the needle. The remainder of the thread retracted by the controller is furnished from the preceding needle loop Ibeing drawn over the shuttle beak as the beak enlarges each needle loop. Thus, the thread controller retracts thread from needle loops of two successive stitches.

When the machine comes to rest at the end of the seam a loop of thread, such as that indicated at |04 in Fig. 15, has reached a position of maximum extension on the shuttle and the previously formed stitch has been set in the work. Accordingly, before the work may be withdrawn from the machine it is necessary to sever the last-formed loop |94. If this loop is severed along its forward side close to the surface of the work, there will be a suitable length of thread drawn through the work in removing it from the horn to complete the rst stitch of a new seam when the machine is restarted. The length of thread left remaining will be sufficient to enable a new loop in a seam to be drawn through the work by the needle and engaged with the shuttle, after which an additional length is provided by the thread measuring device corresponding in amount with the thickness of the new work piece introduced into the machine so that the end of the thread will be drawn into close proximity to the undersurface of the work as illustrated at 239 in Fig. 15.

In case a greater length of thread is required or the machine is to be rethreaded, thread may be drawn past the thread locks by releasing them manually. To release the thread locks, the mechanism for actuating them is connected to a spring tensioned lever 240 fulcrumed on a stud 242on the base of the machine and provided with a handle portion at its forward end in a conveniently accessible location. The lever 245i has an upwardly extending arm through which passes a threaded rod 2M having check nuts 24d disposed at opposite sides thereof and having a pivotal connection 248 with one arm of a bell crank 259 forming a part of the thread lock actuating mechanism. The lever 25d corresponds with a bell crank lever 483 of the Gouldbourn et al. patent and when rotated in one direction, opens both thread locks and when rotated in the other direction, closes them for operation in the usual way.

The operation of the stitch forming and work manipulating devices is most clearly indicated in Fig. 25. The work piercing and entering movements of the awl and needle are shown in the order noted by the :first two curves of this figure with relation to a shaded band 252 indicating the maximum thickness of work intended to be operated upon by the machine. The needle remains in the Work during the feeding movement and this feeding movement, illustrated in the third curve, may be adjusted between the maximum and minimum shown in solid and dotted lin-es respectively, the idle shift movement of the needle being the difference between the maximum and minimum feeding movements.

The presser foot lift and lock curves show a uniform work releasing movement of the presser foot from the work, the foot being unlocked at the end of its lifting movement, as shown in the fifth curve from the top of the figure, momentarily to enable the presser foot to vaccommodate itself to the thickness of the work. The significance of the remaining curves of Fig. 25 will be readily understood without extended explanation with the exception of that labeled Shuttle.

The shuttle curve is made up in part of a dotted line and a solid line crossing each other in the neighborhood of 240. The solid line represents the movements of one shuttle beak engaging a loop of needle thread and the dotted line forms a continuation of the solid line into the next succeeding cycle to illustrate the movements of the loop toward a position of maximum extension at 25 and then to illustrate the contracting movement of the loop. Each contracting loop remains on the shuttle beak until a new loop is engaged by another shuttle beak at approximately 220, at which time two successive needle loops engage the shuttle simultaneously, each new loop drawing thread from the preceding loop. When a loop reaches a position of maximum extension on the shuttle the preceding loop is set in the material of the work.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:

l. A shoe sewing machine having a work feeding hook needle, a rotary shoe entering horn and needle threading devices in the horn, in combination with mechanisms for actuating the needle including means to cause its threaded hook to be Withdrawn from the horn into the substance of a shoe on the horn and means acting thereafter to cause the needle to be shifted with a work feeding movement the length of a stitch while engaging the shoe to feed the shoe.

2. A shoe sewing machine having a work feeding hook needle, a rotary shoe entering horn and needle threading devices in the horn, in

combination with mechanisms including means for actuating the needle to cause its threaded hook to be withdrawn from the horn into the substance of a shoe on the horn and means actthereafter to cause the needle to be shifted the length of a stitch while still engaging the shoe to feed the shoe, and a needle engaging member acting close to the point of engagement of vthe needle with the shoe to reinforce the needle while being shifted to feed the shoe.

3. A sewing machine having a work feeding hook needle, needle threading and other stitch forming devices, in combination with mechanisms including means for actuating the needle to cause its threaded hook to be withdrawn from the threading device and means acting thereafter to cause the needle to be shifted the length of a stitch while still engaging the work.

A shoe sewing machine having a work feeding hook needle, a rotary shoe entering horn and needle threading devices in the horn, in combination with a carrier for the needle mounted foi' movement toward and from the work and in the direction of work feed, mechanisms including means for actuating the carrier to cause the threaded hook of the needle to be withdrawn from the threading device and to dwell while still engaging the work and means acting thereafter to cause the carrier to be shifted the length of a stitch while the needle is dwelling in the work, and a yielding needle engaging member on the needle carrier acting close to the point of engagement of the needle with the work while the carrier is being shifted in the direction of work feed to reinforce the needle.

5. A sewing machine` having a curved work feeding hook needle, needle threading and other stitch -forming devices, and a needle carrier arm, in combination with mechanisms for actuating the carrier'arm to cause the threaded hook of the needle to be withdrawn from the threading device and thereafter to be shifted the length of a stitch while engaging the work to feed the work, and a needle engaging member pivoted to the carrier arm for movement along the needle to reinforce the needle during work feed.

6. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle at the same side of the work with the awl, means for actuating the needle to enter each perforation formed in the work by the awl and means for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement along the line of feed after it disengages the work to enable entry of the awl into the work a stitch length from the previously formed perforation.

7. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle spaced at a distance from the awl along the line of feed at least the length of a stitch, means for actuating the needle to enter the perforation formed in the work by the awl and means for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement in the direction of work feed after it disengages the work to enable entry of the awl into the work a stitch length from the previously formed perforation.

S. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a fixed spacing along the line of feed between the awl and the needle at least the length of a stitch and mechanism for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement in the line of feed after being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved to a point within a stitch length of the previously formed perforation.

9. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a fixed spacing along the line of feed between the awl and the needle, and mechanism for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement along the line of feed after being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved a stitch length from the previously formed perforation.

' l0. A 'shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work topierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a xed spacing along the line of feed between the awl and the needle, mechanism for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement along the line of feed afterV being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved a stitch length from the previously formed perforation, and adjustable mechanism for -actuating the needle along the line of feed while in engagement with the work.

` ll. A'shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted "for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a fired spac- 'along the line of feed between the awl and the needle, mechanism for actuating the needle withan idle lateral movement along the line of feed after'being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved a stitch length from the previously formed perforation, adjustable meehanismfor actuating the needle along the line of Vfeed while in engagement with the work, said mechanisms comprising a pair of levers and cams, a pair of links connected to the respective levers and a central needle actuating pivot connecting the links.

v Vl2. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a xed spacing along the line of feed between the awl and the needle, mechanism for actuating the needle with an idle lateral movement along the line of feed after being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved a stitch length from the previously formed perforation, adjustable mechanism for actuating the needle along the line of feed while in engagement with the work, said mechanisms comprising a pair of levers and cams, a pair of links connecting the respective levers, a central pivot connecting the links, and a single link operatively connecting the central pivot to the needle.

13. A shoe sole sewing machine having an awl mounted for movement toward and from the work to pierce the work, and other stitch forming devices, in combination with a work feeding needle mounted for movement with a fixed spacing along the line oi feed between the awl and theneedle, mechanism for actuating the needle with'an idle lateral movement along the line of feed after being disengaged from the work to enable the awl to be moved a stitch length from the previously formed perforation, adjustable mechanism for actuating the needle along the line of feed while in engagement with the work, said mechanisms comprising a pair of levers and cams', and a pair of links connected to the respective levers, a central needle actuating pivot con.- necting the links, the link of the adjustable mech-` anisrn being connected to its lever by an arcuate slot Yand clamping stud and the arcuate vslot being formed vconcentrically with the central pivot .while the needle is in its fully fed position.

14.Y A shoe sewing machine having a curved work piercing awl and a curved work penetrating needle at the same side of the work, the needle acting to enter a perforation formed by the awl, carrier arms for the needle and awl mounted te oscillate about the saine anis toward and from thev Work and to move in the line of feed while being retained with a uniform spacing between each other, and 'means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in engagement with each other. i

1,5. A shoe sewing machine having a curved work piercing awl and a'curved work penetrating needle at the same side of the work, the needlev acting to enter a perforation formed by the awl, carrier arms for the needle and awl mounted t'o oscillate about the same axis toward and from the work and to move in the line of lfeed while being retained with a uniform spacing between each other, means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in engagement with each other comprising a spindle passing through the needle and awl carrier arms, and clamping means on the' Yspindle for the carrier arms.

,16. A shoe sewing machine having a curved work piercing awl and a curved work penetrat- 1 ing needle at the'same side of the work, the

needle acting to enter a perforation formed by the awl, carrier arms for the needle and 4awl mounted to oscillate about the same axis toward and from the work and to move in the line offeed, means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in positions comprising an eye-headed spindle p assing through the need-1e and awl carriers, and feeding mechanism having a pivot passingV through lthe eye in the spindle. 17. `A sho'e"sevving machine having a curved work piercing awl and a curved work penetrating needle "at the same side of the work,` the needler acting to enter a perforation formed by the awl, carrier arms 'for the needle and awl mounted te 'oscillate about the same axis toward and frornthe Awork and to move in the line oi feed A-while being retained with a uniform spacing 'between each other, means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in positions come prising a spindle passing through the needle and awl carriers, sleeves surrounding the spindle within the Aneedle and awl carriers, one of said sleeves being internally threaded to engage threads on-the spindle, and means for clamping the 4sleeves 'to the spindle.

i3. A shoe sewing'machine having -a curved work piercing awl and a curved work penetrat. ing needleV at the same Aside of the work, the needle acting to .enter a perforation formed vby the awl, carrier arms for vthe needle and awl mounted to oscillate about the same axis toward andfrom the work -andto .move in the line of feed while being retained :with a uniform spac- 'ing .between each other, means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in positions comprising i, 2i Y Y a spindle passing through the needle and Vawl carriers, sleeves surrounding the spindle Vwithin the needle and awl carriers, one of said sleeves being internally threaded to engage threads on the spindle, and a member between the carriers for rotating the threaded sleeve onjthe spindle.

19. A shoe sewing machine having a, curved work piercing awl and a curved work penetrating needle at the same side of the work, the needle acting to enter a perforation formedjby the awl, carrier arms for the needle and awl mounted to oscillate about the same axis toward and from the work and to move in the line of feed while being retained with a uniform spacing between each other, means for retaining the needle and awl carriers in positions comprising a spindle passing through the needle and awl carriers, sleeves surrounding the spindle within the needle and awl carriers, one of said sleeves being internally threaded to engage threads on the spindle, a member between the carriers for rotating the threaded sleeve on the spindle, and a check nut on one end of the spindle for clamping the other sleeve and rotating member to the threaded sleeve.

20. A shoe sewing machine having a work feeding hook needle, a rotary shoe supportingy horn having a needle receiving opening at its-end, a presser foot cooperating with the work supporting horn to clamp a shoe opposite the shoeengaging surface of the horn at a position in advance of the needle, and needle threading devices at the end of the horn in alinement with the opening, in combination with mechanism for actuating theneedle to cause its threaded hook to be withdrawn from the opening in the horn while in alinement therewith into the sub stance of the shoe to clear the horn, and means for causing the needle thereafter to be shifted laterally the length of a stitch from alinement with the opening in the horn while engaging the shoe.

21. A shoe sewing machine having a work .feeding hook needle, a rotary work supporting horn, a presser foot cooperating with the work supporting horn to clamp the work opposite the Work engaging surfaceof the horn and needle threading devices in the horn, in combination with mechanism for actuating the needle to cause its threaded hook to be withdrawn from the horn into the substance of Athe shoe and thereafter to be shifted from thel presser foot the length of a stitch while engaging theshoe, and a needle engaging member acting against the presser foot close to the pointof engagement of the needle with a shoe to reinforce the needle while being shifted to feed theshoe.

22. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a hook needle, 'and a thread controller acting during its full stroke to furnish less than half the thread needed from the time the needle is threaded until it reaches theend of its movement away from a shoe, awork support and a presser ioot, in combination with a multiple beak loop taker at the sideof the work with the needle arranged to receive ya 'loolp' of thread from the needle with one beak while an'- other beak retains the previously formed loop of thread.

23. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a hook needle, 'a work .s upport and a presser foot, in combination with a 22 thread from the needle with one beak while another beak retains the previously formed loop of thread, a gear train for driving the loop taker less than a complete rotation during each sewing cycle to cause each beak on the loop taker to be brought into position for reception of a loop of thread from the needle in regular sequence, vand' a variable speed device for driving the gear train to accelerate the loop taker as multiple beak loop taker. at ,the side of the work with v'the needle arranged 'to' reive'a loop of each beak receives a loop of thread and to decelerate the loop taker after the loop of thread carried thereby reaches a position of maximum extension.

24. A shoe sewing machine having stitchA forming devices including a hook needle, and a thread controller acting during its full stroke to furnish less than half the thread needed from the time the needle is threaded until it reaches the end of its movement away from a shoe, a rotary work supporting horn at the opposite side of the work from the needle, said horn having a needle receiving opening at its end, a needle threading 'device at the end of the horn in alinement with the needle opening, and a presser foot at the side of the work with the needle for clamping the work against the horn, in combination with a multiple beak loop taker at the side of the work with the needle arranged to receive a loop of thread from the needle with one beak while another beak retains control of the previously formed loop of thread.

` 25. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a rotary Work supporting horn at the opposite side of the work from the needle, a needle threading device in the horn, and a presser foot at the side of the work with the needle for clamping the work lagainst the horn, in combination with a multiple beak loop taker at the side of thework with the needle arranged to receive a loop of thread from the needle with one beak while another beak retains control of the previously formed loop of thread, and means for driving the loop taker at a variable speed with respect to the operation of the other stitch forming devices.

26. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a rotary work supporting horn at the opposite side of the work from the needle, a needle threading device in the horn., and a presser foot at the side of the work with the needle for clamping the work against the horn, in combination with a multiple beak loop taker at the side of the work with the needle arranged to receive a loop of thread from the needle with one beak while another beak retains control of the previously formed loop of thread, 'means for driving the loop taker comp-rising connections acting at a ratio other than one to one, and a variable speed device for driving said connections to cause each beak on the loop taker to be brought into position for reception of a loop of thread from the needle in regular sequence and to be accelerated and decelerated with respect to the point at which the loop is received in a uniform manner.

27. A shoe sewing machine having stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a rotary Work 'dle with one beak while another beak retains con-