US325358A - Tailor s chart for cutting garments - Google Patents

Description

3 Sheets- Sheet 1.

LNG Model.)

J. S. OLSON.

TAILORS CHART POR CUTTING GARMBNTS.

witness@ (No ModeM 3 Sheets-Sheet 2. J. S. OLSON.

TAILURS CHART FOR CUTTING GARMENTS.

No. 325,358. l Patented Sept. l, 1885.

l r l l l A` /L e per/WW (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

J. S. OLSON.

v TAILORS CHART FOB, CUTTING GARMENTS. No. Sg, Patented Sept. l, 1885.

Fig. 3

Il JIIzIosIs 9 Tol-43:: lllsllxlillllrlxllnl 1 I I I I I I I 90 19 .la 17 witnesses,- Inventor /g /Z/M c@ 72% wmf *Per NITE STATES PATENT Ormea.

JENNIE S. OLSON, OF HOUSTON, MINNESOTA.

TAILORS CHART FOR CUTTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 325,358, dated September 1, 1885.

(No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JENNIE S. OLSON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Houston, in the county of Houston and State of Minnesota, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Charts for Cutting Garments, which are fully set forth in the f0l lowing specication, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part here of, and in which- Figure l is a diagram otv the front half of a pattern in which are shown a vari ety of scales used in practice to give the different points for all kinds of forms and sizes, also a scale for cutting and forming top parts or upper edges of sleeves. Fig. 2 is a diagram of the rear section of a pattern for a garment, in which are shown a variety of scales used, respectively, to give the different points, kinds of forms, and sizes. Fig. 3 is a dartrule used to give the outline or cut for the various seams, said scale being provided with a variety of scales. Fig. 4 is a rule provided with various curves for the seams in the back, back side piece, sleeves, 83o. Fig. 5 is a diagram of a pattern for small sleeves and childrens sleeves and necks. Fig. 6 shows asleeve-rule made on the same plan as the bottom of Fig. 1.

The object of my invention is to construct a chart for cutting garments in which certain scales are laid down corresponding to certain measurements taken on the body of the person, and said scales so placed relatively to each other as to greatly simplify the difficulty of laying out and cutting the several pieces.

lfhe measurements taken are, respectively, first, from center and bottom of waist in front up over the shoulder to the center of the back ofthe neck, second, the length of waist measured perpendicular-ly upward from the front at bottom of waist Iirst measured from to a horizontal line run across the bust from under the arms, third, the height of darts measn red from the same point as the two preced ing measures up to fullness of bust;77 fourth, width of breast between the arms; fifth, meas urement around the waist, sixth, measurement around the bust; seventh, measurement taken from the same point as first three measurements up to the front of the neck; eighth, measure around the neck g ninth, measure around the armhole, tenth, length of waist under the arm; eleventh, length of back taken from bottom of waist up to neck; twelfth, length of back taken from same point as the eleventh measurement up to intersection or" horizontal line from under arms across back; thirteenth, Width of back measured between the arms; fourteenth, measurements for the sleeves.

Like letters of reference indicate like parts throughout the drawings.

In Figi are shown scales marked, respectively, l, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, of which the rst gives the heightot shoulder measured from the center front and lower end of the waist, the second gives the bottom of waist in front, the third gives the height of darts from the waist-line, also the position of the front of said dart from the center of the front, the fourth gives the width of breast between the arms, the fifth gives the position of the dart or darts on the waist-line or belt, and the sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth give the hust measure.

The scales 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and l5 are placed on the diagram in relative position where they belong, for the purpose of giving proper measures and curves; but the ninth scale may be moved up and down longitudinally on the diagram without affecting anything; but it must be kept at the proper distance from the line or scale 2 in front.

The l, 6, 7, 8, and 9 scales relate to bust measurements, and are numbered from l5 to 50, They are located by iirst cutting a wellfitting pattern for a twenty and thirty-four inch bust, or any other two or more arbitrary sizes, and then dividing equally the spaces between the numbers so found. The front edge, on which the scales 2 and 6 are located, is a straight line, and from this, with the smallest sizes, as a starting point (15 in this case) the point l5 in scale l is located, also in the scale 7, both of which extend from the small interior diagram, a r lt, to the large exterior one, giving the size and shape for the neck and shoulder.

The fourth scale is located from thearrowhead d' inward, and marks on a bust a true horizontal line for measuring the width of breast between the arms from the smallest size-four and one-half inches to twenty and one-half inches. The said numbers are just ICO and extends toits proper point in the small diagram a', for the purpose of avoiding the confusing of the points marked on the cloth with the points marked for width of breast.77 ln this way the shape and position of the armhole are properly marked by this scale, and also the point a'l is located by extending a ruler across from the horizontal part of this scale until it intersects the front line, and from said point a2 the length of waist-front is measured. The tirst practical ligure is 4 below it.

The ninth scale is obtained in the same manner as the first, sixth, seventh, yand eighth, and of course the point measured from it locates the distance out of the lower end of the There are two parallel scales marked 9, placed about four inches apart. They may together be moved up or down from the armhole without affecting anything, as they give the width of the bottom ot' the waist-the lower onefor grown people and the upper one for children. They measure from the front edge, as the other scales.

The length of the side seam is marked on the scalef, which begins at the point o on the line of the eighth scale; or it maybe marked from the star marking the beginning of the scale f on the line of the side seam and the width out ou the ninth scale, and at the point where they intersect is the point where the bottom of the waist and side seam intersect. From said intersection up to the point of the star, the position of which is found by the eighth scale, is the line of the side seam. Said point of intersection is found from the tabulated measurements of the body, and will fall on some one of the holes on the intersection of the lines f2 f3'. The points of intersection of the lines f2 f3 are pierced with holes, which points are found as follows, viz: If the measure around the bust is given as thirty-four inches, place a pencil in hole 34 on lower scale 9 for grown persons. Then iind what the measure under the arm is-say, eight inches. Find this on the scale f', and run across on the horizontal line 8 until opposite the pencil. Then put the pencil up or down into that hole. There are also two horizontal rows of figures, f4L f5. These, for ,children, are the same, and are placed vertically opposite to the corresponding bust-numbers, as shown'in the scale]4 and its scale 9. Said figures are located from the same patterns Vnearest hole in scale l.

that all the other scales described have beenviz., the twenty and thirty-four inch bustnumbers already mentioned, and measured as follows for the above-size thirty-four inches bust, viz: from the front edge to said nurnber on the scale 9 is eleven and one-half inches, and from the line f7, pierced with holes on the true line of the back of Fig. 2 to the vertical line 34 of the scale f, is three and one-half inches. These two numbers are added together and doubled. Their sum gives the whole circumference of the waist-thirty inches. This number is placed vertically opposite the number Set on said scale 9. All other numbers in said scale are ascertained in the same way.

The scales'b, c, and c are for the size of neck, and begin with the smallest desired size-viz. siX inches. Said size is divided into three spaces, of which two spaces of two inches each are given to the two front pieces and two spaces of one inch each to each of the back pieces, making together the circumferenceof the neck, six

to number with the size'G, respectively, as shown. The abutting scales b are spaced oneeighth of an inch for each unit of measure, the scales c are spaced nine thirty-seconds of an inch for each unit of scale, and the scales c are spaced three thirty-seconds of an inch for each unit of scale, 4Vof which each has twenty units.

To cut out a neck of any size-as, for instance, thirteen and one-half inchess-place the number 13tat the top or point obtained from scale l by measuring up from the lower end of the front of waist-line. Mark the point at or nearest the end of such distance-as, for example, say that the length to back of neck over shoulder from said point was nineteen inches, the neck -size thirteen Yand one-half inches. Then first look on scale c and find the distance in inches corresponding to said size. The nearest size is found to be one and three-quarter inch. Deduct this number from nineteen inches. This gives seventeen and one-quarter inches measured fromthe lowest point of the waist-front for height of shoulder-seam, which is marked through the Also markv a point at the hole of the bust-measure (in this case number 34) on scale 6. The length of waistfront is measured eight and one-half inches, and the second length waist-front, being thirteen inches, is measured from this lower point up in a straight line through the point made on scale 6, and this distance marked. This gives the lower point of the neck. The mark for size of neck (131iY of scale c) is now placed on the point marked in scale l, and the curve of the neck moved back or forward until' it touches the point measured from the bottom ot' waist, (thirteen inches.) It may coincide with the number 13 on the scale b. If it falls back of the straight line, the point 13ton scale b is marked, and the straightest edge of the point of the dart-rule, Fig. 3, is used from i inches, between which spaces the scales begin ICH rio

Aof arnihole-numher in scale d.

the point of the dart to the front line of neck, so as to curve gradually into the frontline the point which falls at the end of said thirteen inches. It' the corresponding number, 131iinches, does not fall directly upon the front so found, but back oi' it, as it usually does, a dot is made opposite the number 1311;Y on scale Z1 and the curve ot' the neck drawn with the upper and lower points as guides, as already stated., and from the point or end of the line on scale b a line is then drawn down by placing the pointof the dart-rule, Fig. 3, on the end of said line and drawing a line down the straight edge of said rule until it intersects the front edge in the easiest manner.

The line y is for the top of shoulder, and is made from several patterns, so as to ascertain the proper curve for various shoulders, and is marked at g for long necks and slaiitiiig shoulders, for which it is used from that point, being placed on the point obtained from scale 1, and the other end of said line resting on top If the shoiil` ders are niediunn the point g2 is placed where the point g Was placed before, and if the shoulders are square the point g3 is placed where the points g' and gi were placed in point marked from scale 1, and the other end of said lines in either case resting on the point marked on the scale d for the size of arnihole. For the arnihole we have the scales d and e located, as any one would understand how to do, from the point d each their respective distance for asix-inch arnihole, ascertained by actual measurement. The point d is placed approximately near the center of the arrnhole-cnrve, and it also marks the end of the breast-ineas ure taken between the arms.

The scale d has its units each divided into eleven thirtyseconds ot' an inch, and the scale e has its units divided into ten thirty-seconds ci' an inch.

The arnihole measurement, ii'fgiven as fifteen inches in circumference, is then formed f by marking a point opposite the numbers 15 in each of said scales by laying the point d on the niark given in the scale 4, and turned until the arniholeline lies against the point made in the bust-scale 7, and then a line is drawn along said arnihole-curve up to the point 15 in this case. Then the arnihole-curve is again turned on point d as a iixed pointuntil the scale c comes in contact with the point marked from the scale S, and then describe the curve ofthe ainihele to the point 15 ot' said. scale. This completes the arinhole of Fig. 1. Froni the lowest point of the line of the arnihole (on scale e) is drawn a straight horizontal line, tangent thereto toward the back, of indefinite length.

The point 15 of the scale e determines the point for the upper end ofthe linef, which is aliifaysastraight line,but may incline in either direction from the vertical, according to the difference in size between the bust and Waist. The point for the lower end of said line is ascertained in either of the tivo scales 9 as previously described, and through said point and the point 15 in scale e is drawn the straight line f.

The pointfB (indicated by a. star) is the intersection of linef, and the tangent to the arinhole above mentioned from said point f 8. The linef is continued up about three-quarters of an inch for grown persons, or one inch for Very large persons, and only about one-half inch for children, and on the end of said line is placed the outer end of the curved line of scale e, and the other part of the curve is brought in contact with the said tangent and a line drawn by said curve. This gives the proper curve for the outer end of the arinhole.

The scales It, t, i', and]` are for cutting the sizes of sleeves, and are arranged for the smallest size, which is an eight-inch sleeve. The point t2 is placed in the greatest angle of the curved line It, and on each side of it are placed` twenty-four units of space, each one-fourth ot an inch apart. Then the blank space It measures three inches, and the space la2 six inches, in all nine inches, which gives one inch over for fullness and seam. The curved line It is made from a well-formed sleeve-pattern.

The scales 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 give the sizes,for dress-sleeves, from siX inches to twentyfour inches, as shown bythe figures. They are used by marking for any respective size indicated by the figures, and then moving up the diagram and marking the curve from Ji to z' on the cloth.

The scale 3 is for the purpose of obtaining the height and position of the darts, and is placed in a diagonal position, so as to make the front dart lower than the back dart. The highest point of the scale is of the saine height as the scale S, and from the highest to the lowest point on the vertical position is jiist four inches, divided into any convenient portions. The position of the first dart from the front is about two and three-fourth inches to the line h3, and of the second dart a like distance back of the first to the line h, which marks the first lines for each dart. The series of numerals on each of the vertical lines gives the width of breast-numbers, and indicate that the dart for all such sizes may be placed on that line.

The scale is for the width of space from the front line of side to the frontedge of dart. It consists of a rectangular diagram of six vertical lines about one-fourth of an inch apart, and nine horizontal lines about one-hall of an inch apart. At the intersection of said lines holes are punched. Said scale is placed about onehalf inch below theloiverpoint of scale 3. The numbers 25 3() 35 4() 50 placed on the Vertical lines indicate the size of Waistineasiire, and show that for the first ive units the front edge of dart is placed on the first line, marked 25, the next ve units or inches of Waist-size for the line marked 30, and so on.

The diagram Fig. 2 is the regular pattern fora back piece,and like for the front,the point tr is located froni the point 7c. From said point IIO la thc scale fT is made, which corresponds to regular measures in inches taken on the person from the point 7c. -The line of holes f7 is located about half an inch inward from the straight line to allow for the slantof the waist. The scale 2 on this diagram'is used to give the height at the neck measured from the waistline up, which is measured in inches on the figure or diagram, and marked at the hole 0pposite said measure. The scale 2 is made by measurements from a 20 and 34 size bust, as explained for Fig. 1, as are also scales 2, 3, 5, and 6, and scale4 is obtained for the width of back like scale 4 of Fig. 1 for the width of breast. Scale 3 locates the point Ich-as, forinstance, a thirty-four inch bust-measure gives the point 34 of scale for the point k2. Scale 41ocates the width of back from the measure across the width of back, and locates the point k3 for width of back by marking through the hole corresponding to the measured size. Scale 5 locates thepointk corresponding to the measured bust size-as, for instance, a thirty-four inch bust has the mark made in the hole marked 34. Scale 6 consists of a series of horizontal lines or holes,which correspond to as many different lengths of waists. To use this scale, find the given length of back below the point k', take the line corresponding thereto and pass outuntil the number corresponding to the bustmeasure is found,which mark. This gives the width ofthe back piece at the waist-line.

Fig. 3 shows the dart-rule, which is formed of a stiff cardboard, like all the other patterns, with a point of which one line is more curved than the other, so that either may be used in Inarkingtheform ofthe darts,seams,&c. There are also marked on said figure two dart-scales, one, Z, for single darts, and another, Z2, for two darts, measuring from the points Z2 Z3, respectively, and are used in connection with the scales 5 and 9 of Fig. 1. In said scale 9 there are two rows of numbers, one of which gives the bustnumber, opposite which is a waist-number, from which subtract the waist-number measured. Thus, if the bust-measure is 34, the waist-number is found to be 30 on scale f. Then, supposing that the actual measured size of waist is twenty-five inches, subtract this from 30, which leaves 5. Now place the points Z24 or Z3 (according to the design of making one or two darts) on the mark made for the first line of the dart from scale 5 in Fig. 1,vthen mark the point 5 on single-dart scale, and it will be the width of dart. If two darts are to be made, mark the point 5 as many times as said figure is found on the two-dart scale,which is three times, and it will give the width of both darts and space between them.

Fig. 4 shows an irregular piece about onehalf of the longest edge of which is straight, l

and the other half of which represents the curved seam of the back from the armhole to the waist-line. The line of its larger end is for giving the elbow-curve, and the upper line, m, for shaping collars and any other irregular lines for seams. Fig. 5 shows a pattern for shaping the sleeves at the shoulder and neck for childrens clothes.

Fig. 6 shows an eXtra sleeve-rule. It is made on the saine principle and used iu the same manner as already explained for using same scale at the bottom of Fig. 1.

Vhat I claim is- 1. In a tailors chart, the diagram as putlined in Fig. 1, and provided with the scales 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, constructed and arranged substantially as specied.

2. In a tailors chart, the diagram as outlined in Fig. 1, and provided with the scales 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, in combination with a diagram as shown in Fig. 2, provided with the parts c k 7c 7a2 7c3 fG f7, substantially as specified.

3. In a tailors chart, the diagramsasshown in Fig. 1, provided with scales 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, in combination with the diagram outlined as'shown in Fig. -6, provided with the scales l1,y

il, substantially as specied.

4. In a tailors chart, the diagram as outlined in Fig. 1, and provided with the scalesl 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, in combination witha rule constructed as shown in Fig. 3, substantially as specified.

JENNIE S. OLSON.

XVitnesses:

WM. ZIMMERMAN, HENRY J. FRANK.

Images