US3170253A

US3170253A - Shoe welt

Info

Publication number: US3170253A
Application number: US367974A
Authority: US
Inventors: Curtis R Johnson
Original assignee: Brown Shoe Co Inc
Current assignee: Brown Shoe Co Inc
Priority date: 1964-05-18
Filing date: 1964-05-18
Publication date: 1965-02-23
Anticipated expiration: 1982-02-23

Description

Feb. 23, 1965 c. R. JOHNSON 3,170,253

SHOE WELT Filed May 18, 1964 11 10a 11a 10 10b 11b 10a 13 18 16 I FIG 2 INVENTOR CURTIS R. JOHNSON BY M,Mg4/

ATTORNEYS 3,170,253 SHOE WELT Curtis R. Johnson, Creve Coeur, Mo., assignor to Brown Shoe Company, Inc., St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of v New York Filed May 18, 1964, Ser. No. 367,974 lClairn. (Cl. 36-78) This invention relates to a novel welting for use in welted shoes and to improvements in welted shoes realized from this novel welting.

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Patented Feb. 23, 1965 Turning now to FIG. 3 a typical welted shoe construction is illustrated-and includes an insole 15 to which is secured a flexible rib member 16 as in the usual shoe construction. The shoe upper 17 is lasted over the insole and the rib member 16 in the'usual way, and the welting is then positioned over the upper 17 and is It is an object of this invention to provide a novel welting having characteristics which result in a better welted shoe. 1

It is also an object of this invention to provide a welted shoe in which better flexibility and a stronger shoe can be obtained.

A further object of the invention is to provide welting that is adapted for flat lasting and presents a greatly extended surface for cementing of the out-sole so as to avoid stitching the out-sole as in a Goodyear welted shoe.

welting is made in length and to a uniform dimension so that the incorporation thereof into shoes can result in improved construction and quality. An important characteristic of the improved welting is the extremely wide scarfed margin of flexible form so that it will not detract from the flexibleness of the shoe.

stitched in place by a line of stitching 18 which is'located in the welting groove 13 and extends through the upper and the rib member 16. During the stitching operation the scarf edge 11 of the welting is bent at an angle to the pre-fudged edge 10 so that the Goodyear stitching machine may be utilized in the customary way to join the several parts. Upon completion of the stitching operation the rib member 16, the upper 17 and the scarf edge 11 of the welting are then flat lasted to the insole 15. step of the shoe construction the surface 11b of the scarf edge 11 extends inwardly from the line of the stitching 18 so that there is a wide strip of material inwardly of the stitching line to receive suitable cement or adhesive by which the out-sole 19 may be secured to complete the shoe construction. The final assembly is shown in fragmentary sectional view in FIG. 4 in which a suitable adhesive or cement 20 has been applied to the surfaces 10!) and 11b of the welting so that the out-sole 19 has a considerable cemented connection inwardly of the pre-fudged edge 10. Before the out-sole 19 is placed, filler material 21 is disposed in the more central area of the insole in order to compensate for the slight thickness of the several layers A preferred embodiment of this invention is disclosed in the accompanying drawing, wherein:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the welting of this invention;

FIG. 2 is an end view of the welting;

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary sectional view of the welting inseamed to an insole and upper; and

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary sectional view after inseaming and lasting.

Referring to the drawing, the improved welting is illustrated in FIG. 1, and as there shown comprises a strip or length of material of uniform texture, strength and dimensions which may be produced in a continuous of the welting process if desired. Specifically, the material may be either leather or plastic, and it is characterized by having a wheeled or'pre-fudged edge 10 and a scarf edge 11 separated on one side by a shoulder 12 and separated on the opposite side by a groove 13. The shoulder 12 and groove 13 are substantially opposite each other and are parallel with the outer margin 10a of the wheeled edge and the inner margin 11a of the scarf edge. The scarf edge 11 is provided with a pluralityof spaced slashes 14 extending inwardly from the inner margin 11a so as to render the welting flexible in its horizontal plane as is viewed in FIG. 2 for permitting the welting to be con formed to the curvature of shoes.

In FIG. 2 there-is shown a sectional view of the welting and it is pointed out that the edge 11 is wider than the edge 10. In the manufacture of the welting it is preferred that the under surfaces 10b and 11b of the edges 10 and use substantially flat and in the same plane. The outer margin 10a of edge10 is relatively thin compared to sections thereof inwardly toward the shoulder 12. This is to provide for a thinner appearance in the welting once those portions of the shoe construction which lie inwardly of the pre-fudged edge 10 as will be apparent upon inspection of FIG. 4.

of material comprised by the rib 16, the upper 17 and the scarf edge 11 of the welting;

The improved construction allows for a considerably flatter final contsruction of the several parts, and avoids the usual inseam trim step which is required of the ortho dox welted shoe having a rib member which is very stiff since it is not capable of being flat lasted. There is considerable economy possible in the improved shoe construction and an important improvement in the security of attachment of the out-sole 19 is a cemented construc-.

For example, the pre-fudged edge 10 was approximately eight-thirty-seconds of an inch wide, the scarf edge was approximately ten-thirty-seconds of an inch wide. The shoulder 12 was made approximately one-sixteenth of an inch high and the overall thickness of the strip of material substantially at the shoulder 12 was, approximately sixthirty seconds of an inch. It is, of course, recognized that the welting may be useful in narrowervor wider strips, and in which casefthe foregoing dimensionspwould be proportionately reduced orincreased, It is also possible to utilize the improved welting material in thefusual brogue type shoe by having the outer margin 10a of the" pre-fudged edge 10 as thick or nearly as. thick as the more central section of the welting.

While the foregoing description refers to a preferred form of the improved welting and has described a welted shoe construction utilizing the same, it is understood that variations may come to mind after appreciating the advantages hereof, and it is the aim and object to include changes and variations within'the appended claim.

.What'is claimed is: I e 7 ,As a new article of manufacture, 'a welt for use in the manufacture of flat lasted shoes, said' welt being formed In this I 3 of flexible matr a Y n an 9W9? d e taperin q a relatively thin outer margin inwardly, a longitudinal shoulder spaced inwardly from said outer margin and being parallel to said outer margin, said welt having a scarf edge extending from said shoulder to an inner margin and the portion of said welt between said inner margin and shoulder convergently tapering toward said inner margin, and said welt having a flat bottom surface opposite said scarfed edge and between said outer and inner margins, and a stitch receiving groove in said bottom surface located below said shoulder and extending parallel with said shoulder, said groove reducing the thickness References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,345,738 4/44 Field 36-78 X 2,390,485 12/45 Wright 36-17 2,775,829 1/57 Vizard 36-78 2,921,389 1/60 Ferreira 36-17 3,046,679 7/62 Maertens et al 36-17 3,078,601 2/63 Shea 36-78 3,113,388 12/63 Rubico 36-78 FOREIGN PATENTS 1,150,159 8/57 France.

924,426 3/55 Germany.

of the welt to increase the flexibility thereof in bending 15 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Prim zry Examiner.

transverse to said longitudinal shoulder.

FRANK J. COHEN, Examiner.