US308345A - Edification - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

. S. 0. GROWE.

SHOE.

I Patented Nov. 25

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SAMUEL C. CROW/VIE, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 308,345, dated November 25, 1884.

Application filed September 1, 1884. (No model.) Patented in Canada August 2, 1884, No. 19,891.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, SAMUEL C. Cnown, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification, in which Figure I is a perspective view of a gaiter or Congress shoe made in accordance with my invention. Fig. II is a plan of the upper of said. Congress shoe, showing its form when cutout and before being crimped. Fig. III represents the form of the upper after being crimped. Fig. IV is a plan of the lining of my Congress shoe.

The upper of an ordinary shoe consists of a vamp and two quarters, which construction requires three seams-two at the sides and one at the heel of the shoe. These seams are objectionable, as they chafe the foot, and are liable to rip, while considerable time is required to out, fit, and sew the pieces together; and, furthermore, the upper, when made of pieces sea-med together, especially if made of cloth, is almost certain to stretch out ofshape.

My present invention has for its purpose to overcome the aforesaid objections; and it consists in an upper of peculiar form in a single piece, and so crimped as to constitute a pattern adapted for a gaiter-shoe, the two edges of the crimped pattern being united to form a single seam located contiguous to and extending up from the inner side of the shank, the shape of the pattern of the upper and the crimping of particular portions thereof enabling me to economize stock, reduce the cost of manufacture, and also produce a more durable, better fitting, and easier shoe than those of the same class as heretofore made.

To enable others skilled in the art to understand and use my invention, I will proceed to describe the manner in which I have carried it out.

In Figs. I, II, and III of said drawings, A represents the upper of a Congress or gaiter shoe, which may be of any description of leather or other suitable material. This upper, consisting of the vamp and quarters, is in a single piece, and cut out in the form seen in Fig. II.

To give the upper its desired form previous to applying the sole, the portion of the pattern to form the instep and the front of the gaiter which brings the edge 2' 76 up to and slightly I overlapping the edge I) Z, where the said two edges are united to form the seam. After being crimped and doubled one-half of the pattern assumes the form of the outline represented in Fig. III, the open spacea c f at each side of the pattern being for the location therein of the elastic webbing B.

To apply my invention to the manufacture of a tongue-boot, it is simply necessary to out the pattern of the upper in a single piece corresponding in form to the pattern shown in Fig. II for the Congress shoe, with the exception that the portion of the stock at the instep would be cut on the dotted line b x c, and the portion of the stock at the. heel would be out on the dotted line a d, the said pattern being afterward crimped at the instep portion 1) w 0 previous to attaching the leg.

In Fig. IV is represented the form or pattern for a side-lace gaiter, the only change from the previously-described pattern being the addition of the piece m, which is stitched to the line b c after the front of the upper is doubled on the line a c and the piece a b 0 removed previous to crimping. As my upper is cut in a single piece, but one seam is necessary, and that is located where it cannot chafe or injure the foot, and said seam is not liable to rip. My upper can also be cut out more quickly than one composed of several pieces,- and the labor heretofore required to handle, fit, and sew the pieces of an upper of the ordinary construction is avoided, which saving of labor, in addition to the economy of the stock resulting from my plan of cutting the upper, materially reduces the cost of manufacture. Furthermore, a shoe or boot made from an upper in accordance with my invcnone seam only is required contiguous to the 10 tion Will not stretch out of the original proper shank, substantially as shown and described. shape given it to so great an extent as a shoe Vitness my hand this 27th day of August,

or boot having its upper composed of several 1884.

5 i SAMUEL o. OROWE.

c1a11n- The pattern A for an upper, consisting of a In presence ofsingle piece of material cut in the form sub- N. \V. STEARNS,

stantially as shown and described, whereby l H. W. STEARNS.

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