US307700A - Office - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) Y a' sheets-sheen 1.

T. ANDERSON.

FIGURED PILE FABRIC?. No. 307,700. I' Patented Nov. 4, 1000u FIG:1

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(No Model.) 3 sheets-sheen 2. T. ANDERSON.

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FIGURED PILE FABRIC.

Patented Nov. 4, 1884.

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THOMAS ANDERSON, OF LIVERSEDGE, TEST RIDING, COUNTY OE YORK, ENGLAND.

FIGURED PILE FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 307,700, dated November 4, 1884.

Applieationiiled July 23, 1883. (No specimens.) latentvd in England Mhy 13,

T0 all 1071/0772, t may concern,.-

Be :it known that I, Tnorras ANDnnsoN, a subject of the Queen ef Great Britain and lreland, and residing at Liversedge, in the West Riding of the county of York, England, have invented Improvements in Figured Pile Fab ries, (for which I have obtained a patent in Great Britain, N o. 2,25%, dated May 13, 1882,) of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of figured pile fabrics known as velvets77 or velveteens, wherein thcfigure pile is formed from the weft-threads, the object of the invention being to facilitate the cutting of the pile, and to enable the k nife to pass with greater' certainty from the race77 of one :ligure of weft pile to the corresponding race of another figure of the same without liability to slip out of the race or to trip `What is known as a race in velvet-weaving is the space or furrow underneath the floated threads wherein the point of the knife `travels in cuttingthe said iioated threads to form the pile.

Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a fabric of known constructii'm. Fig. 3 is a section along the thread A B, Fig. l. Fig. et is a weavers dia gram showing how my fabric is made.

In designing the patterns for the mamita@ ture of such figured weft-pile fabrics according to my invention the design is so arranged that the outline thereof steps or moves in races at the edge of the iigures-that is to say, where the edge of the pattern crosses the warp-threads it must always step the eX- aet number of threads which corresponds with the distance between each two races, or a multiple of such number. Forexample, ifa design is made with a pile floating over seven warp threads and one binding thread, in which there is one race for every two warpthreads in the cloth, asin an ordinary E l771 velvet, then, as there is arace for every two war1i -threads, the edge of the figure must step or move two warp-threads t or any multiple of two) at a time. "This is clearly shown at Fi l in the annexed drawings, which represent a highly-magnified plan view of the face of a piece of uncut figured velvet woven accordlean ing to my invention. The perpendicular bands are the warp-threads and the horizontal bands are the weft threads, the white being the floated threads which form the pile, and the shaded bands being the binding weft-threads which ferm the back. The pattern represents the point ot` a leaf, the black outlines showing clearly the edges of the pattern stepping at the sides invariably two warpthreads (or one racc) at a time, as at a a a a, or a multiple ofthe same, as at b1. The same system applies to any other weftpile velvet or velveteen tie-up, of course varying the stepping or moving at the edges of the patA tern according to the tie-np used. For instance, in a pile which has a race for every four warp-threads, the pattern would step or move in feurs,(or multiples of fours,) and so on, the edges of the design thus always step ping in races. rlhe advantage of this system is that it facilitates the cutting, as it enables the eutters knife to enter the race (after passing` over a portion of the ground) much more easily than on the old plan, on account of the Figure l is a diagram showing my fabric.

small squares formed by stepping er meving in races, which act as guides for the point of the knife and prevent it from slipping ont of the race. To illustrate this l have shown at Fig. 2 the same pattern as it would be woven according to the best method known previously to my invention, when it will be seen that the pattern steps at the edges by a single warpethread only at a time, and in consequence of this the knife very frequently cntered the wrong race or passed through the back of the cloth after crossing over :a portion of the ground, but this difficulty is evercome to a great extent by my improvement.

Another point to be observed in designing the patterns according to my invention is that, in addition to stepping or moving in races along the edge of the patterns, care must be taken to turn the points at the top and bottoni of each figure on an odd number of warpthreads, as shown at c c in Fig. l, where the point is turned on ive threads, the exact number of threads at the turning-point depending, of course, on the shape of the ligure or pattern. The object of thus turning the point of the pattern on an odd number of ends is that the race IOO will always be nearly at the center of the small square or step, and thus the cutting ofthe pile is facilitated. In addition to the above system of' stepping in races at the edges of the design and turning the points of the pattern at top and bottom on an odd number of warpthreads, I also throw the short floats at the edges of the pattern to the back of the cloth. For instance, in a weft pile of seven-thread float I throw all the smaller floats than five threads to the back of the cloth. Floats of four threads could be cut; but I find it much easier for cutting if there are no smaller floats on the surface than five threads. On reference to Fig. l it will be seen that none of the floated pile threads on the face pass over fewer than five warp-threads, while at the edges of the velvet or velveteen pile figures made von the old plan there is always a large quantity of short floats, which interfere with the-cutting, as they have a tendency to throw the cutters knife out of the race, (see Fig. 2, where floats over two, three, and four Warp-threadsl are seen at d d along both sides of the patterng) but according to my improvement, (sec Fig. 1,) as these short floats are thrown to the back of the cloth, instead of the fece, the cutting is greatly facilitated, even with a seven-thread float and one binderV tie-up. It would be rather easier to eut if all floats of live threads could be dispensed with by vthrowing them to the back of the cloth and only leaving the full floats of seven threads on the face; but by so doing the pile would be robbed from the edges of the figure, which would injure the effect to a great extent.

Fig. 3 is a section of the uncut cloth, (magnified and exaggerated,) taken through the line A B in Fig. l, the circles representing the warp-threads; e e e e, thebinding or back weftpicks, and ffff the short floats of less than five threads at the edges of the pattern,carried to the back of the cloth instead of to the faee, as heretofore.

In order to enable a weaver or other person skilled in the art of weaving clearly to linderstand my invention, I have also shown at Fig. fi a diagram or weavers draft of part of a pattern designed according to my invention, the class of velvet chosen for illustration being au ordinary Il l cloth with a float over seven threads and one ground-pick to each four pilepicks. The black crosses denote where the warp is lifted, the pattern being the same as in Figs. l and 2. Nos. l, 6, 1l, 16, or every fifth pick, are plain ground-picks. The races are on every even end or warp threadthat is, two, four, six, and so on. rlhe edges of the pattern will be seen always to step in races--` that is, in twos or in. fours or other multiple of two-and all short floats over less than ve warp-threads are carried to the back of the cloth. For the turning-point of a figure (in this case turning upon five ends) see No. 7 pick and Nos. 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25 warpthreads.

I have only thought it necessary to give an illustration of one kind of weft-pile tie-up, but the same system applies to any weft-pile velvet or velveteen tie-up, of course varying the stepping or moving of the pattern at the edges in designing according to the tie-up used. For instance, in a pile which has a race for every three warp-threads the pattern would step or move at the edges in threes, and in a pile which has arace for every four warpthreads the pattern would step or move in fours, and so on.

It will be seen from the foregoing statement that my improvement in figured weft-pile fabric or velveteens consists in the combination of three elements or principles-namely, stepping always by the exact number of threads equivalent to a race, or a multiple thereof, at the edges of the pattern, turning the points of the pattern at top and bottom on an odd number of warp-threads, and throwing the short floats to lthe back of the cloth. These three principles combined will be found so greatly to facilitate the cutting that figured weft-pile fabrics woven according to my invention may be cut almost as easily and cheaply as plain velvets.

I do not here claim a figured weft-pile fabric having the figures made with marginal steps that are aligned with the races, and having short floats all thrown to the back of the cloth, as this is described and claimed by me in another application for a patent filed simultaneously with this application, (Serial N o. 101,619.)

I claim as my invention- As a new manufacture, a` figured weft-pile fabric having the figures made with marginal steps that are aligned with the races, having the points of the pattern turned on an odd number of warp-threads, and having all the short floats thrown to the back of the cloth, as specified.

In testimony whereoflhave signed my name to this speci ficationin the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

. THOS. ANDERSON.

Witnesses:

Due-ALD Sco'r'r, JOHN HUGHES.

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