US3039288A - Back seam press - Google Patents

Description

`lune 19, 1962 A, w, LA TORRE ET AL 3,039,288

BACK SEAM PRESS 4 Sheets-Sheet l Filed Aug. 9, 1961 June 19, 1962 A. w. A TORRE ET AL 3,039,288

BACK sEAM PRESS Filed Aug. 9, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 June 19, 1962 A. w. LA TORRE: ET AL 3,039,288

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BACK SEAM PRESS Filed Aug. 9, 1961 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 United States Patent Office 3,039,288 Patented June 19, 1962 3,039,288 BACK SEAM PRESS Anthony W. La Torre, Manchester, N.H., and Chesterton S. Knight, Brockton, Mass., assignors to Geo. Knight & Co., Inc., Brockton, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Filed Aug. 9, 1961, Ser. No. 130,349 8 Claims. (Cl. 69-7) This invention relates to improvements in shoe Inachinery and more particularly to improvements in shoe machinery for pressing the back seam portion of a shoe upper prior to lasting. The back seam portion is considered as the area adjacent the back seam.

In shoe manufacture, it is common practice to join the sides of the upper at the rear prior to lasting. The rearrnost portions of the two upper sides are turned inwardly along a vertical line, placed face to face, and stitched together. This operation, however, leaves an inwardly extending ridge of material running from the top to the bottorn of the upper. Since this ridge is undesirable in the nished shoe, it has been customary under the teachings of the prior art to double the free edges next to the stitching back on themselves. This flattens the seam somewhat. It is then further flattened by rubbing and finally is covered with a strip of tape to present a still smoother surface. The rubbing and taping is generally done by machine.

Under the teachings of the prior art with regard to mens shoes in which the leather is relatively heavy, it is also customary to press the back seam portions of the upper and the taped seam in a suitable back seam press. In general terms, this press comprises a convex form which fits within the rear portion of the upper and a concave form which fits correspondingly aga-inst the outside of the upper. The upper then is pressed between the two forms to flatten the back seam as much as possible. Since the back seam line of the shoe last is not a simple curve, but rather a compound curve, and since it is desired that the upper, after pressing, fit properly upon the last, it has heretofore been believed that the pressing forms to be effective not only in pressing the seam but also the adjacent areas had to be shaped according to the compound curve structure of the last. This necessitated producing the forms by casting. Each casting had to be individually hand-finished to present the required smooth surface. A pair of pressing forms, if made with precision mating surfaces, was consequently a relatively expensive item.

In addition to `the inconvenience and expense of producing castings in several sizes, the prior art back seam presses were subject to a further disadvantage in that, since the upper was substantially thicker in the area of the taped back than in the areas immediately adjacent, an unevenness of pressing frequently occurred which resulted in puckering of the upper in the areas adjacent the back seam. Hence the back seam presses have not been used at all on womens fine shoes where such imperfections could not be tolerated.

Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to provide a back seam press capable of working on womens fine shoes in which the leathers are thin and delicate and are prone to wrinkle when back seamed and turned. Fine womens shoes of the type capable of being pressed by the present invention have heretofore been impossible to press by any known machine. Even hand-pressing of the back seam area has been unsatisfactory. The present invention is designed to fill a need in the field of womens tine shoes which heretofore has not been met. Our back seam press does not require expensive three dimensional tooling and equipment to prepare the required precision pressing forms. Instead, simple circular forms are used which may be produced on a lathe and which we have found provides even, pucker-free pressing of the entire back seam are-a.

In the practice of our invention in a preferred embodiment thereof, a back seam press is constructed consisting of four pressing stations. Each station is provided with a complete pressing unit which comprises cooperating convex and concave forms pneumatically operable for receiving and pressing the lback seam portion of an upper. The pressing surfaces of the forms are true circular segments in both longitudinal and transverse section. Additionally the lower convex form on which the back seam portion is initially placed is provided with a longitudinal groove of substantially rectangular cross-section and properly dimensioned to receive the additional thickness of the back seam. The groove is of proper depth, not only to insure proper pressing of the areas adjacent the back seam, but also to cause the back seam itself to be pressed. The lower convex and upper concave forms are provided with suitable heating elements, and means are provided for independently selecting the heat to be supplied by either form.

It is a feature of our invention that the cooperating forms may be machined on conventional metal-working machinery and need not be cast.

It is another feature of our invention that the back seam receiving groove in the lower convex form is dimensioned as to width and depth to insure more satisfactory wrinkle-free pressing of the back seam and adjacent areas of the upper.

It is yet another feature of our invention that the actuating means for operating each unit of the invention is Vlocated adjacent each pressing station in such position that the operator may operate the press while simultaneously holding the upper in the correct position on the lower convex form.

These and other objects and features of our invention will appear as the description proceeds with the aid of the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a front view taken on line 1 1 of FIG. 2 of a preferred embodiment of our invention having four back seam pressing stations;

FIG. 2 is an end view of FIG. 1 showing one of the back seam presses;

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary section taken on the line 3 3 of FIG. l;

FIG. 4 is a section taken on the line 4 4 of FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary transverse section of the forms in pressing position with an upper therebetween taken on the line 5 5 of FIG. 2; and

FIG. 6 is a rear view of the invention taken along the line 6 6 of FIG. 2 with some of the parts shifted slightly for clarity.

Referring now to the accompanying drawings for a more particular description of the invention, a back seam pressing unit comprising four presses is shown in FIG. l.

The four presses are mounted on a stand which comprises a cross bar 11, two end legs 12 and 14, and two feet 16 and 18. As shown in FIG. 2, legs 12 and 14 are attached to feet 16 and 18 respectively and are disposed at an angle to the vertical in order to position the back seam presses, hereinafter described, at an angle which provides the best opportunity for visual examination of the positioning of the upper in each press.

Secured to cross bar 11, as hereinafter described, are the four back seam presses 20, 22, 24 and 26. These are identical and consequently only one of the back seam presses need be described. Each press is constructed as follows: A C-shaped bracket 28 is secured to cross bar 11 by any suitable means, such as bolts 30 and 32. As seen in FIG. 3, bracket 28 is provided with an upper leg 34 and a lower leg 36 which are parallel to each other and extend forwardly from cross bar 11. A pneumatic cylinder 40 is secured to the top of arm 34, and the pistondriven ram 42 thereof extends downwardly through a passage indicated generally at 44 in arm 34. The end 45 of ram 42 is inserted into an opening 46 in a yoke member 48 and is secured therein by set screws 50 and 52. Yoke 48 is 'provided with two arcuate segments 54 and 56 which are dirnensioned to extend on either side of bracket 28 and to fit loosely thereagainst. Yoke 48 prevents axial rotation of ram 42 thereby to insure proper positioning of the upper pressure form, as hereinafter described.

Arm 36 supports a lower convex pressing form 57, preferably of steel, by means of a downward extension 59 located in passage 55 of arm 36. The lower form 57 has an upper surface 58 which is in the shape of a true circle segment both circumferentially and transversely. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the circumferential arc is provided from a circle having a radius of 2.750 inches and the transverse arc is produced from a circle having a radius of .500 inch. It will be noted that, since the transverse and circumferential surfaces are arcs of true circles, they may be turned readily in a lathe. Form 57 is further provided with a circumferentially extending circular groove `60. Groove 60 is provided to receive the additional thickness of upper 61 (see FIGS. 2 and 5) that is present at seam 63. Groove 60 extends the entire length of form 57 and is oriented transversely in the center thereof. Groove 60 is ordinarily 1A; inch wide and 1/32 inch deep, but the dimensions may be varied to accommodate thicker or thinner leathers. The groove side walls 62 are substantially at right angles to the 'bottom 64.

As shown in FIG. 3, a heating element 66 is positioned snugly within form 57 in a passage 6'8 which extends longitudinally therethrough. Heating element 66 is of conventional manufacture and in the preferred embodiment is rated at 80 watts. A line cord 70 leading from heating element 66 passes out through the lower rear end of passage 68. The forward end of passage 68 may, if desired, be closed with a suitable block or stud 72. Form 57 is also provided with a central opening 74 in the base into which rod 59 is inserted and secured by a pin 78. Rod 59 is secured in passage 55 of arm 36 by a set screw 80.

The upper half of the press comprises an upper form 84 having a transversely and circumferentially convex under surface 86. As is the case with form `57, the under surface 86 of upper form 84 is made by producing a truly circular arcuate cut longitudinally and transversely therein. The radius of the transverse cut in the preferred embodiment is .562 inch, while the longitudinal radius is 2.812 inches. It will be observed that the longitudinal and transverse radii of the upper form are greater than those of the lower form. This is necessary in order to provide uniform pressing engagement on the upper 61 throughout the entire cooperating pressing surfaces. If the two forms were of identical transverse and longitudinal radii, then pressing engagement would only be effected along the periphery of the pressing surface. It will be observed that the concave surface 86 of upper form 84 is not provided with a groove but, rather, is continuous and smooth. A longitudinal passage 88 is provided through upper form 84 and into it a heating element 90 is snugly inserted. Heating element 90 may be of any suitable construction and should preferably be compatible with heating element 66'. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, heating element 90 is rated at watts. A line cord 92 passes out of the lower rear end of passage 88. The forward end of passage 88 may, if desired, be closed wit-h a suitable block 94. A centrally located opening 96 in the top of from 84 has inserted therein a rod 98 which is secured by a pin 100. The free upper end of rod 98 is positioned in the lower end of opening 46 in yoke 48 and is secured therein by set screws `102 and 104.

It will now be observed that, upon reciprocating motion of ram 42, the upper concave form will alternately descend and ascend in relation to the fixed lower form 57. As noted above, the engagement of the two forms on upper 61 is uniform throughout their entire common surfaces. It will be obvious that by proper selection of the length of travel of ram 42 proper engagement and disengagement of forms 57 and 84 may be effected.

As shown in FIG. l, a four-way air valve 106 is provided for each of the cylinders 40. Each valve 106 is connected to its cylinder 40 by suitable air hoses 103 and 110. Valve 106 is provided with a handle 112 offset from the body of the valve and positioned directly benea-th the pressing station. Valve 106 is attached to C- bracket 28 by means of a small bracket 113. The position of handle 112 is such that the operator may operate handle 112 while positioning and steadying upper 61in place over lower form 57.

Valve 106 is supplied with compressed air through an l air line 114. An adjustable pressure control valve 116 with a gauge 117 is provided in air line 114 to control pressure in cylinders 40. An oil-filled air filter 120 is also provided to clean the air and to keep valves 106 and cylinders 40 lubricated. It will be noted that air line 114 is common to each of the valves 106. Thus by suitable actuation of any valve handle 112 the associated cylinder 40 may be caused to actuate its ram 42 to open or close its related heel press. Compressed air entering cylinder 40 through pipe 108 drives the piston down. Air displaced from below the piston escapes through pipe 110 and discharge port 111. When valve handle 112 is swung in the opposite direction, air enters the bottom of cylinder 40 through pipe 110 driving the piston upward, while air in the top of the cylinder escapes through pipe 108 and discharge port 113. Thus the upper member 84 is forced down to pressing position, as in FIG. 2, or raised open position, as in FIG. 3.

As shown in FIG. 6, lead wire 70 from heating element 66 in lower form 57 and lead wire 92 from heating element 90 in upper form 84 pass to the rear of cross bar 11. The two wires in lead 70 are connected to an electrical circuit indicated at 122 by means of plug 124, and the two wires in lead 92 are connected to the electrical circuit 126 by means of plug 128. This wiring arrangement is repeated for each of the pressing stations 20, 22, 24 and 26. The electrical circuit 126 is arranged so that each of the heating elements 90 in the upper forms 84 will be in parallel and suitably connected to an external source of electricity 127. Likewise heating elements 66 in the lower forms 57 are connected to circuit 122 in parallel and in addition a variable resistance in the form of a rheostat 130 is provided enroute to circuit 122. By means of rheostat 130 the amount of current passed to the heating elements 66 may be controlled, and the ternperature of forms 57 varied at will.

The rheostat control is desirable because it has been found that best pressing results are obtained by supplying a greater degree of heat to the interior surface of upper 61 which is `adjacent lower form 57 than to the exterior surface of the upper which is adjacent the upper form. The temperature of the lower form 57 may be varied depending upon the material being pressed. In some cases, for example, when pressing suede or patent leather, 1t is desirable to provide heat only to the lower form 57. This may be easily accomplished by unplugging plugs 128 which connect leads 92 to circuit 126.

In order to provide the correct or desired temperature in the lower form 57, temperature indicator 132 is mounted upon a block of steel 134 attached to the front face of the cross bar 11. This steel yblock 134 is substantially the same in heat conductive qualities -as the form 57 and a heating element (not shown) identical with the heating element 66 is embedded within it. By means of a lead 138, the heating element 136 is connected to circuit 122 at plug 140. The lower forms 57 and the steel block 134 will assume substantially the same temperature, as both are fed through a rheostat 130. The heat radiated by block 134- will actuate the temperature gauge 132, and consequently it will be possible to know with sufficient accuracy the temperature of lower forms 57.

The operation of the back seam press is as follows:

The press is mounted in a suitable position in front of the operator with the air line and the electricity lines connected into the respective sources of air 'and electricity.

It has been found that a pressing time of approximately eight seconds will give the desired results. This is long enough for the heat of the forms to penetrate the leather under the pressure provided and to set the area being pressed in a smooth unwrinkled condition. In the light of this, it has been found preferable to combine four presses, as in the preferred embodiment, to produce Aa unit in which three uppers may be in the process of being pressed while the fourth upper is being positioned on the lower form 57 of the fourth press. This is accomplished sequentially, giving in each instance a period of about two seconds for the operator to remove a pressed upper land to position a new upper in the press and actuate same.

The process of placing the upper in the open press is accomplished as follows: The upper is picked up by the operator and, using two hands, he places the back seam area with the finished side up between upper and lower forms. (The upper is unlined at this stage of manufacture, but the seam at the rear has been rubbed and taped.) Since the press is disposed at an angle to the horizontal, the operator can easily sight down the groove 60 in the lower form which is to receive the back seam taped portion. The operator then pulls the upper 61 down against form 57 with the taped seam residing in the groove 60. As the seam falls into the groove, it can readily be sensed by the operator so that he may know -that the press can be actuated. Then, while still holding the upper rmly in place against form 57, the operator, using his right hand, can easily operate the valve handle 112. When the valve is shifted, the air cylinder is actuated to force the upper form 84 down toward the lower form 57. Without further attention, the press closes and remains closed until the valve is returned to its original position.

If only a single press is used, the operator waits for the required few seconds to elapse. He then moves the valve handle in the opposite direction to cause the upper form to separate from the lower form. Thereupon the pressed upper may be removed from the press.

When four presses are being used, the operator loads and puts into operation each press successively. When the fourth has been loaded and actuated, suicient time will have elapsed to complete the pressing operation in the rst press, which is then unloaded and reloaded. This is followed by unloading and reloading the other presses in succession.

It will now be obvious that a back seam pressing unit is provided which embodies several novel features.

Among thesel are the lower and upper pressing form which are made with truly circular configurations which may be turned on a lathe rather than cast to agree with the compound curves of the lasts, as was common under the prior art. This rnethod of making the forms greatly reduces the cost of fabrication and consequently provides a desirable economy. At the same time, the surfaces can be made rto precise dimensions to yaccommodate the thickness of leather being pressed so that the pressure is applied uniformly over the entire back seam tarea. Also included is the essential novel feature of the groove to receive the back seam, the groove being so dimensioned that the seam is pressed without aifecting the pressing of the area of the upper immediately adjacent thereto. It will also be noted tha-t the cooperating forms are provided with independently adjustable heating elements and that the air valve actuating handle is positioned With relation to the press in such fashion that the operator may easily operate it while simultaneously holding the properly located upper in the press.

It is our intention to claim `any changes and modifications of the example of the invention herein chosen for purposes of disclosure which do not constitute departures from the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

We claim:

l. A press for the back seam portion of an upper, comprising a circular convex member and a circular concave member, the latter being of slightly larger radius than 'the former, said convex member having a circumferential groove to receive a seam present in said upper.

2. A press `for the back seam portion of an upper as defined in claim 1, said convex member being xed and said concave member Ibeing movable toward and away from said convex member, air actuated means for moving said concave member, valve means for controlling said air actuated means, and manually actuated means positioned below said convex member for shifting said valve means.

3. A press for the back seam portion of an upper, comprising a rst member having a convex circular surface in its major dimension, said member also curved convexly in cross-section, a second member adapted to act in pressing relation to said iirst member, said second member having a concave circular surface in its major dimension, said second mem-ber also curved concavely in cross-section, the radii of the circular surfaces of said second member being slightly larger than the corresponding radii of said first member, the difference between the radii being such as to produce uniform pressing engagement on the upper placed therebetween, and an open groove running along the major dimension of said first member extending from one end thereof to the other for receiving the back seam portion of the said upper.

4. A press for the back seam portion of an upper as defined in claim 3, wherein said open groove is provided with parallel side walls disposed at right angles to a flat bottom.

5. A press for pressing the back seam area of a seamed upper, said press comprising a lower form having its upper face convex and shaped to correspond to a portion of the outer face of a rst circular ring, an upper form having its lower face concave and shaped to correspond to a portion of the outer face of a second circular ring of slightly larger dimensions than the first circular ring, a circumferentially extending groove in said convex face, means for moving the said upper and lower faces toward and away from each other, whereby the area of the upper adjacent the back seam may be pressed While the seam is located in said groove and said faces are pressing on said upper located therebetween.

6. A press for pressing the back seam area of a seamed upper, said press comprising a fixed lower form having its upper face convex and circular in its long dimension, a

circular groove extending through the long dimension of said upper face, an upper form having its lower face concave and circular in its long dimension, the said faces of such dimensions as to apply a uniform pressure to an upper placed therebetween, mens for forcing said upper form against the lower form with sufcient pressure to press properly the back seam area of the upper, a heating element in said lower form, means for varying the temperature of said heating element, and manually operable means for controlling the movement of said upper 10 form located below said lower form within reachof an operators hand while he is holding an upper in pressing position on said lower form.V

7. A press for the back seam portion of an upper as dened in claim 6, the surfaces of said upper and lower faces being circular in transverse section.

8. A press for the back seam portion of an upper as defined in claim 6, and a heating element in said upper form.

No references cited.

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