US3035745A - Method of and means for making bound garment openings - Google Patents

Description

May 22, 1962 s. o. ORTHWIN 3,035,745

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR MAKING BOUND GARMENT OPENINGS Filed Jan. 16, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Unprinted side-Pattern l J--- I-- C I: I

Wrong side- Fabric Right side- Garment i Wrong side- Fabric 3 Right side- Fobric Press '60 fight SldB- Garmeni SIDNEY O. ORTHWIN IN VEN TOR.

fight side-Germ nt y 1962 s. o. ORTHWIN 3,035,745

METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR MAKING BOUND GARMENT OPENINGS Filed Jan. 16, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Ll 'h INVENTOR.

SI DN EY O. ORTHWIN 3,035,745 METHOD OF AND lVIEANS FOR MAKING BOUND GARMENT OPENINGS Sidney O. Orthwin, 3665 Seiber St., Dayton 5, Ohio Filed Jan. 16, 1958, Ser. No. 709,371 4 Claims. (Cl. 223-1) The present invention relates to an improved method of making bound garment openings, e.g. bound buttonholes, and means for use in connection therewith.

Heretofore known methods an devices for making bound buttonholes have required elaborate, difi'icult and detailed measurements and/or markings and great skill in execution. This is due to the fact that the problems involved in the making of bound buttonholes are rather manifold. In the first place it is necessary that the stitch lines be parallel and precisely of the same length. Furthermore, the stitch lines must be placed directly one above the other so that when a line is drawn from the end of one stitch line to the nearest end of the other stitch line, it will form a right angle therewith. In addition thereto, the stitch lines must be spaced correctly not only with regard to each other but they must also be equi-distantly spaced from the folded edges of the binding strips so that the two lips of the finished buttonhole will substantially meet and be of equal width.

It is, therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a method of making bound garment openings which will solve each and every one of the above mentioned problems in a simple and highly satisfactory man ner so as to result in a neat appearing bound buttonhole.

It is another object of this invention to provide a method of making bound garment openings and means for use in connection therewith, which will enable even the lay sewer to make bound garment openings that are neat and accurate and can be accomplished with a minimum of effort and dexterity and in a minimum of time.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly from the following specification in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a top View of a finished bound buttonhole made according to the present invention.

FIGS. 2 to 12 illustrate in proper sequence the various steps of the method according to the present invention for making a bound buttonhole; FIG. 9a being a section along the line IXaIXa of FIG. 9.

FIG. 13 is a top view of a buttonhole overlay or buttonhole gauge for use in connection with the method according to the present invention.

FIG. 14 is a top View of a spacing gauge according to the invention for use in connection with the method according to the invention.

FIG. 15 is a side view of the spacing gauge according to FIG. 14.

One of the main characteristics of the present invention consists in the provision and employment of a spacing gauge which following certain initial steps in the making of the bound garment opening will precisely determine the eventual location of the lips of the bound garment opening so that in the finished bound garment opening the two lips thereof will be of equal width and will substanitally meet.

A further characteristic feature of the present invention Ynited States Patent consists in the employment of a certain type of garment ice Referring now to the drawings in detail and FIG. 1 thereof in particular, this figure shows a bound buttonhole as it can be made by the method according to the present invention. In this FIGURE the reference numerals 1 and 2 respectively designate the upper and lower edges of the upper lip of the bound buttonhole, and the reference numerals 3 and 4 respectively designate the upper and lower edges of the lower lip. The left-hand and right-hand edges of the bound buttonhole as shown in FIG. 1 are designated with the reference numerals 5 and 6 respectively. The character G designates the garment which has been provided with the button hole according to the invention. In order to make a bound buttonhole according to FIG. 1, the length and location of the buttonhole to be made is marked on the right side of the garment. This mark is represented in FIG. 2 by the heavy line 7. Then the buttonhole mark 7 is by means of tailors chalk, thread or the like extended at each end for instance by as indicated by the dot-dash lines 7a and 712. Following this step, a line or mark 8 is made perpendicular to the line 7 so that the mark or its extention goes through one end, e.g. the right-hand end of line 7. This mark 8 may extend for instance 1" above and 1 below line 7.

Following these steps of marking the right side of the garment G, a buttonhole overlay according to the present invention as illustrated for instance in FIG. 13 and generally designated with the reference numeral 9 is selected. This overlay or gauge, which may be of paper, has printed thereon lines 10 and 11 which represent marks for stitch lines which stitch lines eventually form the edges 1 and 4 for the lips of the bound buttonhole of FIG. 1. In other words the spacing of said stitch lines substantially equals the distance between the outer edges 1 and 4 of the lips. The buttonhole overlay 9 of FIG. 13 furthermore has printed thereon lines 8a and 8b and a line 70. These lines 8a and 811 by alignment with the marks 8 on the garment G (FIG. 4) in cooperation with the alignment of line 70 (FIG. 13) with the marks 7a and 7b on the garment G will later properly locate the buttonhole pattern 9 with regard to the garment G.

Prior to the said aligning operation, a buttonhole strip 12 (FIG. 3) is cut from a piece of desired fabric to substantially the size of the buttonhole overlay 9. Thereupon, the buttonhole overlay 9 with its unprinted or unmarked side is placed upon the wrong side of the thus cut buttonhole strip 12 as indicated in FIG. 3. The buttonhole overlay 9 thus placed upon the buttonhole strip 12 is attached to the latter, preferably by baste stitching along the line 7c (FIG. 13) on the buttonhole pattern 9 as shown in FIG. 3. The baste stitching is indicated in FIG. 3 by the reference numeral 13.

The buttonhole overlay 9 with the buttonhole strip 12 attached thereto is now placed on the right side of the garment G (FIG. 4) so that the marks 8a, 8b are in alignment with the marks 8 while the baste stitching 13 is in alignment with the marks 7a and 7b.

After this alignment has been efiected, the bottonhole strip 12 with the buttonhole overlay 9 attached thereto is temporarily connected to the right side of the garment G (FIG. 5). This may be effected, for instance, by slightly raising the upper and lower edges of the buttonhole overlay 9 as shown in FIG. 5 and pinning the buttonhole strip 12 from underneath the buttonhole overlay 9 by means of pins 14 to the garment G. Thereupon the raised portions of the buttonhole overlay 9 are allowed to move back into substantially fiat position on the buttonhole strip 12. The buttonhole strip 12 with the overlay 9 attached thereto is now stitched to the garment G by stitching along the marks 10 and 11 (FIG.

'means of an ordinary household iron.

13) of the buttonhole overlay 9 (as shown in FIG. 5). These stitches are designated in FIG. 5 with the reference numerals 20 and 21 and should stop exactly at each end of the lines 1% and 11. The baste stitching 13 previously applied to hold the buttonhole pattern 9 to the buttonhole strip 12 is then removed and also the overlay 9 is removed and torn off from the buttonhole strip 12. p 7

The next step in the method according to the present invention is performed in cooperation with a spacing gauge generally designated S and shown by way of example in FIGS. 14 and 15. This spacing gauge S is composed of a strip 15, for instance a steel strip having a thickness of 0.010", and a narrower strip- 16 of preferably similar material. The wider strip is provided with two holes 17 and 18 which are arranged n ar but spaced from the ends of the strip 15. These holes 17 and 18 may be square or rectangular and have a Width very slightly wider than the width of the narrower strip so as to allow the latter just to be passed therethrough. Two opposite sides of each of the holes 17 and 18 are parallel to the longitudinal edge portions 15a and 15b of the strip 15 so that when the strip 16 has been passed through the holes 17 and 18, the edge portions 16a and 16b of the strip 16 will for all practical purposes be parallel to the edge portions 15a and 15b of the strip 15. The arrangement will then be such that the narrow strip 16 and the wider strip 15 will be so located with regard to each other that the longitudinal line of symmetry of stripv 16 will be in alignment with the longitudinal line of symmetry of strip 15. In other words, in the specific showing of the FIG. 14, the distance between the parallel edge portions 15b and 16b equals the distance between the parallel edge portions 15a and 16a. The strips 15 and 15 may be connected to each other at one end thereof in any convenient manner, for instance by a rivet 19. However, it is to be understood that such a connection is not necessary for the present invention and is efi'ected merely in order to facilitate the handling of the spacing gauge S.

Referring now to FIG. 6 illustrating the next step in applicants method. inconnection with the spacing gauge S of FIGS. 14. and 15, it will be remembered that according to the method step last described in connection with FIG. 5, two rows of stitches 20 and 21 were obtained by sewing along the marks 11) and 11 of the buttonhole overlay 9, whereupon the baste stitching. 13 and also the overlay 9 were removed. Now the narrow strip 16 of'the spacing gauge S is unlatched and inserted into the small passage confined'by the two .rows of stitching 21 and 21 and by the right side of the garment and the right side of the buttonhole strip. After the narrow strip 16 has thus been inserted as shown in FIG. 6, the open end of the narrow strip 16 is latched to the wider strip 15 by flexing the narrow strip and inserting its free end into and through the hole 18 as indicated in dotdash lines in FIG. 6, so that the two strips 15 and 16 of the spacing gauge S are approximately in the position showninFIG. 15.

The next step concerns the forming of the lips of the bound buttonhole. To this end, first one side of the buttonhole strip 12, for instance that part of the buttonhole strip 12 which is below the lower edge 15a when viewing FIG. 7, is folded about and firmly held against said. edge 15a as shown in FIG. 7, and that portion of the just mentioned folded part which is adjacent the edge 15:: is pressed in convenient manner, for instance by It will be obvious that in this way a crease is formed in the buttonhole strip 12 along the edge 15a. The last mentioned folded part of the buttonhole strip 12 is then moved out of the way while the oppositely located portion of the buttonhole strip 12 is similarly folded and pressed about the edge 15b of the spacing gauge S. In this way a corresponding crease is formed in the buttonhole strip 12 along the edge 15b. Following this operation, the narrower strip 16 is unlatched from the hole 18, and the entire spacing gauge S is withdrawn from the buttonhole strip 12 and the garment G. Thereupon, in conformity with FIG. 8, the buttonhole strip 12 is slashed through from one end to the other end between the two stitch lines 21) and 21, without, however, cutting into the garment G. The buttonhole strip 12 is thus cut into two portions or flaps namely 12a and 1217. It should be noted in this connection that the slash thus effected need not necessarily be precisely along a center line between the two stitch lines 29 and 21. The main point is that the slash does not cut the stitch lines 21} and 21. Thereupon the garment G with the now slashed buttonhole strip 12 connected by the stitch lines 26 and 21 to the garment G is turned so that the wrong side of the garment G will now be up, while the flaps 12a, 12b will hang down as indicatedin FIGS. 9 and 9a. The garment G is now slashed between the stitch lines 20, 21, preferably to within about A" of each end of the stitch lines and then diagonally to just about the end of the stitch lines as shown in FIG. 9. 'In this connection, care must be taken not to cut into the stitching. Subsequently, from the right side of the garment G, first one flap, for instance flap 12b, and then the other flap 12a are passed all the way through the slash in the garment G to the wrong side thereof. As a result thereof, the lips of the bound buttonhole are formed and will for all practical purposes meet. The right side of the garment G is then turned up in conformity with FIG. 11, whereupon the lips are preferably catch-stitched together, as likewise shown in FIG. 11.

According to the next step of the method according to the present invention, the face of the garment G is folded back into FIG. 12 position on aline approximately event with one end of the buttonhole and at a right angle to the buttonhole. Thereupon, first one of the triangles 22, which were formed when slashing the garment G in conformity with FIGS. 9 and 9a, is stitched to the buttonhole strip portions or flaps 12a, 12b preferably three times, as close to the fold 23 in the garment G as possible, as indicated in FIG. 12. In this way, the binding line 24 is formed. The same procedure is then repeated with the other triangle. This completes the making of the bound buttonhole according to the present invention.

The bound buttonhole may then be faced in conformity with standard procedures which, however, do not form a part of the present invention.

It is, of course, to be understood that the present invention is, by no means, limited to the particular showing in the drawings but also comprises any modifications within the scope of the appended claims. Thus, the invention is, by no means, limited to the making of buttonholes but can equally well be applied to the making of mound openings for pockets. It is, of course, to be understood that in such an instance the buttonhole overlay shown in the drawings by way of example will correspondingly vary in size and that the spacing gauge will be dimensioned accordingly. It is also to be understood that the buttonhole overlays would, of course, vary in conformity with the dimensions of the bound buttonhole to be produced. Furthermore, while the method has been described in connection with buttonhole overlays in which the vertical lines designated in the drawings with the reference numerals 8a and 8b are shown at the end of the buttonhole overlay, it is. also to be understood that these vertical lines could also be at any other place of the buttonhole overlay, in which instance, of course, the marks designed in FIG. 2 with the reference numeral 8 would have to be made at a correspondingly difierent location.

While it is preferable and advantageous to design the garment opening overlay 9 as it has been specifically shown in FIG. 13 with the marks 8:: and 8b thereon, it is be understood that the marks 30 and 3b are not under all circumstances necessary. If the marks 8a and 8b were omitted, the marks on the overlay 9 could still be properly lined up with the marks on the garment. To this end, the line 70 of the overlay 9 would as before be lined up with the marks 7a, 7b of the garment, whereas the mark 8 would be lined up by means of a straight edge with the corresponding ends of the lines 1% and 11.

It is also to be understood that, while the spacing gauge has its members and 16 preferably made flexible and resilient, this is, by no means, necessary. As a mere example, the rivet 19 may be replaced by a pivot, and the opening 18 may be cut open at one side so that the member 16 can be pivoted about said pivot, and the free end of member .16 can be caused to engage the opening 18 through the cut-open side thereof. Furthermore, the respective width of the members 15 and 16 does not have to be the same throughout the entire length of said members. For instance, these members may become wider at the very end where the rivet 19 is located if this should be desired.

What I claim is:

1. A spacing gauge for use in connection with the making of bound garment openings, especially bound buttonholes and bound pocket openings, which comprises: a first elongated member having a portion with the longitudinal edges thereof parallel to each other and spaced from each other by a distance corresponding substantially to the distance between the longitudinal stitch lines of the bound garment opening to be made, and a second elongated member having a portion with the longitudinal edges thereof spaced from each other by a distance approximately equaling twice the distance between said longitudinal edges of said first elongated member, said second elongated member being provided with guiding means spaced from the line of symmetry of said second elongated member by substantially half the width of said first elongated member for engagement with the longitudinal edge thereof whereby said elongated members are engageable with each other so as to locate and arrest said first elongated member substantially symmetrically with regard to the longitudinal line of symmetry of said second elongated member.

2. A spacing gauge for use in connection with the making of bound garment openings, especially bound buttonholes and bound pocket openings, which comprises: a first elongated member having a portion with the longitudinal edges thereof parallel to each other and spaced from each other by a distance corresponding substantially to the distance between the longitudinal stitch lines of the bound garment opening to be made, and a second elongated member having a portion with the longitudinal edges thereof spaced from each other by a distance approximately equaling twice the distance between said longitudinal edges of said first elongated member, said elongated members being interconnected at one end thereof and free at the other ends, and said second elongated member having at the free end thereof a slot with oppositely located parallel edges arranged substantially symmetrically with regard to the longitudinal line of symmetry of said second elongated member and spaced from each other by a distance only very slightly greater than the distance between said longitudinal edges of said first elon ated member just suificient to allow the free end of said first elongated member to pass through said slot so that the longitudinal lines of symmetry of both elongated members are held in substantial alignment with each other.

3. A spacing gauge for use in connection with the making of bound garment openings, especially bound buttonholes and bound pocket openings, which comprises: a first elongated member having a portion with the longitudinal edges thereof parallel to each other and spaced from each other by a distance corresponding substantially to the distance between the longitudinal stitch lines of the bound garment opening to be made, and a second elongated member having a POILiQH with the longitudinal edges thereof spaced from each other by a distance approximately equaling twice the distance between said longitudinal edges of said first elongated member, at least one of said elongated members being flexible and resilient, that portion of said second elongated member which is located between the parailel longitudinal edges of said second elongated member being provided with two slots spaced from each other in longitudinal direction of said second elongated member and arranged symmetrically to the longitudinal line of symmetry of said second elongated member, each of said slots having two oppositely located edges parallel to each other and to the longitudinal line of symmetry of said second elongated member and spaced from each other by a distance just sufficient to allow that portion of said elongated member which is provided with said parallel longitudinal edges to pass through said slots so that the longitudinal lines of symmetry of both elongated mcmbers are held in substantial alignment with each other.

4. A spacing gauge according to claim 3, which includes rivet means interconnecting said elongated members at one end thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,141,761 Brown June 1, 1915 1,416,801 Duesler May 23, 1922 2,533,467 Johnson Dec. 12, 1950 2,584,051 Rose Jan. 29, 1952 2,756,434 Rick et a1 July 3 1, 1956 2,767,673 Gouch Oct. 23, 1956 2,810,205 Beck Oct. 22, 1957 2,814,126 Berardinelli Nov. 26, 1957 2,814,265 Burgess Nov. 26, 1957 2,824,530 Katz Feb. 25, 1958

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