US3011459A

US3011459A - Sewing machine for concealed slide fasteners

Info

Publication number: US3011459A
Application number: US774554A
Authority: US
Inventors: Ambrose J Mcnamara
Original assignee: IRVING CONSTANT
Current assignee: IRVING CONSTANT
Priority date: 1958-11-18
Filing date: 1958-11-18
Publication date: 1961-12-05
Anticipated expiration: 1978-12-05
Also published as: FR1230391A

Description

Dec. 5, 1961 A. J. MCNAMARA SEWING MACHINE Foa coNcEALED SLIDE FAsTENERs Filed Nov. 18, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 l IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII .IIUi IIVIIIIIIIIIIIIH YIIII 'lill/111111.

INU

Dec. 5, 1961 A. J. MONAMARA sEwING MACHINE EOE coNcEALED SLIDE EAsTENERs Filed Nov. 18, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Dec. 5, 1961 A. J. MGNAMARA 3,011,459

SEWING MACHINE FOR CONCEALED SLIDE FASTENERS Filed Nov. 18, 1958 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 BYMHM Verence characters refer to like parts:

FIGURE 1 is a side elevational view of the presserv foot, needle plate portion, and contiguous bed portion,

United States Patent Filed Nov. 18, 1958, Ser. No. 774,554 7 Claims. (Cl. 112-2) The present invention relates to a machine for sewing concealed slide fasteners, and more particularly to a machine for sewing concealed slide fasteners wherein the sewn-in slide fastener closely resembles a seam when the slide fastener is closed, and wherein the stitching joining the slide fastener to the cloth to which it is attached is concealed.

In articles of wearing apparel where fashion is important, it has long been desirable to conceal slide fasteners, so that the same are .not revealed when the garment is worn with the slide fastener in its closed disposition. In particular, it has long been desirable to provide garments, such as dresses, with a concealed slide fastener which in its closed disposition closely simulates a seam. For example, the concealed slide fastener may be colinear with a true seam in the garment and appear to be a potrion of such seam when the slide fastener is in its closed disposition. l

The accomplishment of the aforesaid desiderata has been impeded by a number of problems. Thus, it is necessary to sew the tapes on which the slide fastener elements are carried onto the garment, and the concealment of the lines of stitching which are parallel to the simulated seam effected by the closed slide fastener has proven to be difficult. Moreover, to eifect the optimum mounting of a concealed slide fastener itis necessary that the line of stitching joining the tape carrying the slide fastener elements and the juxtaposedcloth of the garment be as closeras possible to the slide fastener elements. This has proved to bea most diii'icult problem since present day demands upon the clothing industry require the high speed installation of slide fasteners.

This invention has as an object the provisionA of a machine for sewing concealedslide fasteners onto a juxtaposed cloth.

This invention has as another object the provision of a machine which can sew concealed slide fasteners onto juxtaposed cloth at a rapid rate witha minimum of manual operation. l y

This invention has as yetanother object the provision of a machine for sewing concealed slide fasteners onto a cloth so that the line of stitching joining the concealed slide fastener to the cloth is concealed.

This invention has as still another object the provision of a machine for sewing concealed'slide Ifasteners onto cloth in such manner that when the concealed slide fasteners are in their closed disposition the appearance of the genuine seam is closely simulated. d y

This invention has as a further object ytheprovision of a machine for sewing concealed slide fasteners onto a juxtaposed cloth in which the line of kstitching joining the tape carrying the slide fastener elements Vand the juxtaposed cloth of the garment Ais as closeas possible to the slide fastener elements. f 5

Other objects will appear hereinafter.` v f For the purpose of illustrating the' inventiondthere is shownin the drawings a form which is presently preferred; it being understood, however, that thisinvention is not limited to the precise arrangements and instrumentalities shown. l

-Referring to thefollowing drawings, wherein like refice 2 of the sewing machine of the present invention, and revealing the manner in which a tape bearing slide fastener elements is stitched to cloth by the machine of the present invention. l

FIGURE 2 is a sectional view taken on line 2 2 of FIGUREI FIGURE 3 is a plan fragmentary view taken along above, of the presser foot, needle plate portion, and contiguous bed portion of the sewing machine of the present invention.

FIGURE 8 is a' plan view-similar to that of FIGURE 7, except that the presser foot is removed in order that clarity of underlying parts may be had.

FIGURE 9 is a sectional view taken on line 9 9 of FIGURE 8.

FIGURE l0 is a sectional View taken online 10-10 of FIGURE s.

FIGURE Il is a sectional view taken on line 11-11 of FIGURE 8.

FIGURE 12 is a side elevational v-iew of the presser foot of the present invention. t

FIGURE 13 is a plan view of the presser foot viewed from the direction of the arrows 13-13' in FIGURE 12.

FIGURE I4 is an enlarged front elevational view of the presser foot viewed from ythe direction of the arrows 14-14 in FIGURE 12.

FIGURE l5 is an enlargedv sectional view taken on line 15-15 of FIGURE 12.

FIGURE 16 is a side elevational view of a needle-unit lwhichcan be used in the sewing machine of the present invention.

FIGURE 17 is a front elevational view of the needle unit shown in FIGURE I6.

FIGURE 18 is a view revealing a concealed slide fastener of the type which may be utilized in connection with the present invention.

Referringto the drawings, and initially to FIGURES l through 4 inclusive, the machine of the present invention -is designated generally as 20. .Such machine may comprise a flat bed sewing machine having a reversible feed. For the sake of simplicity and clarity of presentation, only, those portions of the machine needed to comprehend the present invention will vbe described herein,

vit being understood that the remainderof the machine may be of conventional construction.

The machine 20 includes a presser foot 22, which is retained in operative disposition by meansl of av presser bar 24 of conventional construction. A

The presser foot 22 includesra footf26, and a shank 28 extending upwardly from the-heel ofithefoot 26. The upper end of shank 28 fits into ahole inthe bottomiof the presser` bar 24 and .-is secured to the presser bar Z4 by a setscrew 30.

Foot 26 is provided with av pair of spaced, parallel grooves 32 in the bottom surface ofthe foot 26. Grooves 32 extend longitudinally along the foot 26 for the entire length of the foot 26 (see .FIGURE 13).'` lAs clearly shown in FIGURE v14, grooves'32 `are tilted` at a small angle, approximately ten degrees, .with -regard tothe vertical, and away from eachother, for reasons which will be explained below. Foot 26 is provided with a needle hole 34 therethrough adjacent the toe of the foot 26. Needle hole 34 is positioned between the grooves .32,- .and is: of a width- `wider than the distance between 1 thegrooves 32.so thatthe needle hole 34 opens into the groovesSZ. (see FIGURES 13: an`cl.15

Referring to FIGURES 16 and 17, the needle unit of fthe; present invention is 'designated generally. as 36. Needle unit 36 comprises a pair of spaced, parallel needles =.38 secured together: attheirupper endsby a head 40. A shank 42 extends upwardly from the head 40. As shown in FIGURE- 1, shank .42tts into a hole in the bottom of a needle bar 44. and is secured to the needle bar 44 by a setscrew v46. Eachof the needles 38, of the present invention is provided with 4an eye y4S which extends from front to rear .rather than from sidecto side. The significance of having the needles :38v provided with an eye 4S that is disposed in the front to rear disposition shown particularly in FIGURES 1 andV 17 will be explained below. Needles '3S "are spaced apart a distance such that the distance '(,between the outer edges -`of the needles 38 is substantially `:equahto the width of the needle hole 34 in foot 26. Thus, jas shownin vFIGURE 2, the needles 38 pass through the g k needle hole 34 closely adjacent the sides of the needle hole i :34, and thereby pass through the inner edges of the grooves 32.

The presser foot 22 is disposed above the'needle plate 50of thesewing machine20.Y Such needle plate 50 is disposed upon the flat bed 52 on the sewing machine 2i?.

Such bed `52"extends.for an appreciable distance on allsides of the needle plate 50 and provides support for the 'cloth' member undergoing stitching .with the sewing machine 20 of the present invention. As .shown in FIG- URES 7 and 8the needle plate 50 is threadably secured to the bed 52 by means of screws 54. Removal of the .screws 54 willenable the' needle plate 50 to .be raised, .thereby permitting access tothe contents within thebed 452 of the sewing machine 20,. such contentsv forming no *.partpof the .present invention.

Needle plate 50 comprises a planar plate which is diszposed '.uponlthebed; 52 .with the. upper surface .of the needle plate 50 being substantially flush with the surface .Lofzthev bed v52.

:'.Needleplate'.Stlhas a pair of spaced, 'parallel grooves f 56 in its upper surface. Grooves 56 extendY from the .'front: edge to therear edge of needle plate-.50m the direction that the cloth is advanced .across .the needle plate 50. lGrooves 56-areispacedapart a distance equal to thedis- =.tance':between.the.grooves 32 in the lbottom of foot 26. The grooves 56 are positioned suchthat each groove56 is vparallelto and beneath a separate, groove 32 in the bottom -offoot-26. i

-Needleplate-.lhas a needlefhole 58 therethrough be- .tween t.he;groovesy 56.?? Needle. zhole S8 is wider. thanthe distance between`,the, grooves56 so that the needle hole -58` opens. .into thefgrooves 156i.- Needle hole 58. is located ..directly.;under needle .hole :34 in. foot 126.

:"Needle plate iisprovided with

feed slots

60', 62, and 64 on each side ofandto the rear of needle hole 5S. Feedclaws66`,168,!andflprojectthrough feed

slots

60, 62;.;and'64 respectively;

such lfeed'claws

66, 68, and 70 being of conventional construction Vand-.serving the purposerv of advancing. the cloth'undergoing stitching-in the direction .betweenfthe front edge and the rear edge of needle: plate 50.v

The operationofzthe"sewingrnachine 20 oflthe present invention is as follows:

A 'form i'ofsconcealedslide fastener which may be 'utilized inl accordance withthe present invention is shown in FIGURE.'18.` .Theprecise constructionv of the concealed slidefastenerforms no part of the present invention, awidevarietyofsuch concealedslide fasteners being 'describedinstherarh ,Asuitable example of a concealed :slide'ffastener Which:..may beSutilized` in vthe .present in- .l 4 vention is that disclosed in United States Letters Patent 2,738,560 issued March 20, 1956 to Jacques Hug entitled Concealed Slide-Fasteners. The finished sewn article is Shown in FIGURES 5 and 6, and by reference to FIG- URES 2, 3, 4, 6, and 18 a sucient understanding of the concealed slide fastener may be had.

The slide fastener 72 includes a pair of element supporting tapes'74V and 76 on which the elements v78 of the concealed slide fastener '72 are carried. The

tapes

74 and 76 are permanently united together ibymeans of a clip at the lowermost portion of the

tapes

74 and 76. The con- Vcealed slide fastener 72 includes the slider 80 which carries v the'tab 82.

As seen particularly in FIGURE 6, the 'elements '78 are carried on folded-in inner edges of the

tapes

74 and 76,

- the inner edges of the tapes 74 `and 76 being welted at 84 concealed slide fastener 72 is closed (see FIGURE 5) substantially only the tab 32 is exposed to view.

FIGURES Zand 3 reveal the joinder of tape 74 to cloth 86. The cloth 86 inthe embodiment shown in FIGURE 5 includes a sewn seam 88 above the concealed slide fastener 72 and a sewn seam 90' below the concealed slide fastener 72. The seams 88 and 9() join the cloth 86 to the cloth 92 (see FIGURE 5). The cloth- S6 is folded back along fold line 94 (see FIGURE 6) to form the exposedmajor vportion of the cloth designated 86a and the folded-under portion ofthe cloth'b, such folded- 'under portion 86h of the cloth being juxtaposed to the tape 74. Similarly, the cloth 92 is folded back along fold 1ine.96 to form the exposed major portion designated 92a andthe folded-underportion 92h, such folded-under portion 92h being juxtaposed to the tape 76.

Referring now particularly to FIGURES 2 and 3, the stitching of the tape 74 to cloth 86 is shown. It is essential if the slide fastener `72 isA to `be concealed fromyiew as shown in FIGURE 5 that the lineofstitching 98 be as .closeas possible to the slide fastener elementsr73. Thus,

-the needle 38a which forms the line of stitching 98 should -be positioned' as close as possible to the elements 78,

-and even can be in rubbingcontact with-the elements 78.

The tape 74 and thel cloth 86 are ed between the Y needle plate S0 and the foot 26 vwith theelements 7S vpassing through one pair of the

opposed grooves

32 and 56 in the vfoot 26and needle plate Srespectively, and the tape 74 and the foldedunder portion 86h of the cloth '86 extending across the needle holes 34 and. .To permit the elements 7810

pass'throughl thetgrooves

32 and 56, the elements 78 are tilted sothat the inner ends78a of the lelements 78 -t into the groove 32 in the foot 26, and the outer ends 781) of the'elements 78 t into the groove 56 in the needle plate '50. y Since the groove 32 in the foot 26 is tilted away from the needle hole 34, the elements 7 8 will 'be tilted to the extent that the outerend 78!) of the elements 78` will be close'to the vneedle38a, or may in fact be in rubbing contact with the needle 38a. "Ihus, the portionofthetape Y'74 juxtaposed to the elements will be yexposed so that the 'line' of stitching 98 can be placed very close'to the elements 78.

` If'the elements 78are tilted to such an extent that the outer ends- 78h of' the elements "73 extend into the path resiliency return vto itsfnormal position.

. 72 and/or form an unsightly bulge in the garment.

The disposition of the eye 48 of the needle 38, which as above-indicated is from the front to the rear, enables the thread 100 to be passed through the eye 48 of the needle 38 without interfering with the positioning of the needle 38 closely adjacent to the lelements 78. Thus, where a needle having an eye extending from side to side is used, the thread will be interposed between the needle and the elements and will interfere with the positioning of the needle closely adjacent to the elements and/ or will be broken when the needle is positioned closely adjacent the elements.

Since the line of stitching 98 must be as close as possible to the elements 78, the major'portion of the tape 74 would b-e free.v It has been found 'that if the major portion of the tape 74 isleft free, the tape 74 may curl up and either interfere with the proper operation ofthe slide fastener In the sewing machine of the present invention, the second needle 38b provides a second line of stitching 102 spaced from and parallel to the line of stitching 98, to prevent the tape 74 from curling up. The second needle 38b serves an additional function which will be explained below.

Heretofo're, in the sewing of concealed slide fasteners,

y when the stitching-ofone of the tapes of the slide fastener to the cloth was completed, it was necessary to turn the garment completely around in order to stitch the other tape of the slide fastener to the cloth. Also it was necessary that both tapes and their associated cloths be fed through the sewing machine in the same direction. These steps in the sewing of the slide fastener were time consuming so that they slowed down the operation of sewing the slide fastener. y

In the sewing machine of the present invention, when the stitching of tape 74 to cloth 86 is completed, it is not necessary to turnthe garment around, but the garment is merely moved-over to bring the, tape 76 and thecloth 92 over the needle plate '50. The tape 76 and cloth 92 are then fed between the foot 26 and needle plate 50 with the elements 78 on the tape 76 passing through the other pair of

opposed grooves

32 and 56 in the foot 26 and needle plate 50 respectively, as shown in FIGURE 4.

In the stitching of the tape 76 to the cloth 92, the needle 3817 provides'the row of stitching 104 which is as close as possible to the elements 78, and vthe needle 38a provides the second row of stitching 106. Also since the sewing machine of the present invention is a reversible feed machine, tape 76 and cloth 92 can be fed under foot 26 in the direction opposite to the direction that tape 74 and cloth S6 were fed under foot 26. Thus, if tape 74 and cloth 86 were fed under foot 26 in the direction of arrow 108 in FIGURE 3, tape 26 and cloth 92 can be fed under foot 2.6 in the direction of arrow 110 in FIGURE 4. Therefore, with the sewing machine of the present invention a concealed slide fastener can be sewn onto juxtaposed cloth at a more rapid rate and with a minimum of manual operation.

Although the needle unit 36 for the sewing machine of the present invention has been described as having two needles 38, if the second row of stitching is not desired, a single needle which is laterally adjustable in the needle bar 44 can be used without substantially affecting the speed of operation of the sewing machine of the presentA invention. If a single needle is used, the needle is positioned next to one side of the needle hole 34 in the foot 26 to provide the row of stitching which isas close `as possible to the elements 78 on the tape being sewn. The needle is then moved to the other side of the needle hole 34 to provide the row of stitching which is as close as` possible to the elements 78 on the other tape being sewn. The present invention may be embodied in other specific forms Without departing from the spirit or essennal attributes thereof and, accordingly, reference should bel surface and a needle hole between said grooves, each of the grooves in said presser foot being parallel to and sup'eiposed above a separate one of said grooves in said needle plate, and the needle hole in said presser foot being superposed above the needle hole in said needle plate.

2. A sewing machine in accordance withclaim 1 in which each of said needle holesv opens into the grooves on each side of the needle hole.

3. A sewing machine in accordance with claim 2 in which the grooves in said presser foot' are tilted at an acute angle with respect to a plane perpendicular to said foot and away from each other.

4; A sewing machine in accordance with claim 3j including a needle unit mounted above said presser foot, said needle unit including at least one needle adapted to pass through the needle -holes along one side of said needle holes. f.

5. A sewing machine in accordance with claim 3 including a needle unit mounted above said presser foot, said needle unit includes a pair of spaced parallel needles f adapted to pass through the needle holes along opposite sides of said needle holes.

6. A presser foot for sewing concealed slide fasteners comprising a foot, a shank extending upright from the heel of the foot, a pair of spaced longitudinally parallel grooves in thev bottom surface of said foot, said grooves being tilted at an acute angle with respect to the vertical away from each other, and a needle hole through said foot between said grooves, said grooves extending the full length of the foot.

7. A presser foot in accordance with claim 6 in which said needle hole is wider than the space between` said grooves so that the needle hole opens into said grooves.

References Cited in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTSy