US3005459A - Foundation garment - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 24, 1961 G. w. GEISSMANN 3,005,459

FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed May 8, 1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Gladys W. Geissmann AT TORNE' Y Oct. 24, 1961 G. w. GEISSMANN 3,005,459

FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed May 8, 1958 2 Sheet-Sheet 2 Fig.ll. 4O

Fig. I2. 320 35 FigJT, 53 Fig. 18.

JNVEN TOR. Gladys W Geissmann BY ATTORNEY Uited States Patent I 3,005,459 FOUNDATION GARMENT Gladys W. Geissmann, 2 Beekman Place, New York 22, N.Y.

Filed May 8, 1958, Ser. No. 733,973 12 Claims. (Cl. 128-528) This invention relates to foundation garments and more particularly to foundation garments shaped to achieve freedom of action and comfort while at the same time imparting coordinated figure-controlling pressures to the anatomy.

Conventional foundation garments such as girdles often depend on vertical sections and panels to achieve maximum control. More often than not, they do not perform useful figure-controlling functions without causing cumulative fatigue to the wearer. Generally speaking, not only do conventional foundation garments fail to perform comfortable figure control, but they tend to lack pleasing proportions and appearance both on the figure and ofi the figure where they are displayed for sale.

The present invention is concerned, therefore, with the provision of improved foundation garments which afford a continuity of figure control through a plurality of directions of elasticity together with a unique combination of shapes of the component parts. The shape and location of the seams, together with the shape and direction of the elastic or power parts of the garment, are integrated to afford a simplicity of appearance while at the same time conforming to well-proportioned anatomical standards.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are described in detail below having reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIGURE 1 is a front view of a foundation garment illustrating the directions of elasticity of certain component parts, the drawing illustrating the shape the garment assumes when worn;

FIGURE 2 is a back view of the garment of FIGURE 1;

FIGURE 3 is a side view of the garment of FIGURE 1 flattened to show more of the front and back parts than would normally be visible on the female figure;

FIGURE 4 is a back view showing a modified form of the garment of FIGURE 1;

- FIGURE 5 is a side view showing the garment of FIG- URES l-3 on a female figure;

FIGURES 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 are plan views of component parts which can be used in the foundation garment of FIGURES 1-3;

FIGURE 11 is a front view of a foundation garment of the panty-girdle variety embodying the present invention;

FIGURE 12 is a developed, exploded plan view of the garment of FIGURE 11, showing certain of the component parts thereof;

FIGURES 13 and 14 are back views in perspective of the garment of FIGURE 11 as it appears on a figure in two different postures which normally strain a foundation garment to the discomfort of the wearer;

FIGURE 15 is a fragmentary view showing details of a modified lower portion of a foundation garment which afiords relief in sitting and bending postures, particularly from garter strain;

FIGURE 16 is a fragmentary view illustrating a crotch assembly for the garment of FIGURE 11;

FIGURE 17 is a fragmentary inside view of a crotch and leg portion for the garment of FIGURE 11; and,

FIGURE 18 is a plan or developed view of a side and partial leg portion for the garment of FIGURES 13 and 14.

. Referring first to FIGURES 1-3 and 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10, the invention is illustrated as embodied in a foundation garment taking the form of a girdle 10 including a pair of side panels 11 and 12 (also shown at FIGURE 8) and a front, back and waist'encircling frame assembly indicated generally by the numeral 13. The frame assembly 13 includes as its front panel 14 a T-shaped portion which tapers downwardly in gentle curvatures to match the corresponding curvatures of the front edges of the side panels 11 and 12. The divergent upper ends of the front 14 overlie the abdomen and hip areas of the wearer and define the beginning of the waistband of the garment. The side panels 11 and 12 are preferably formed of a two-way stretch material such as knitted power net or other knitted fabric in which greater elasticity occurs in one direction than in the other. In the garment of FIG- URE 1, the side panels 11 and 12 are arranged with the directions of the arrows 11a and 12a, respectively, inclining downwardly to the rear. The front panel 14 is preferably formed of a relatively heavier material, such as satin lastex or a double layer of other fabric having a single direction of elasticity, which exceeds in its strength the elasticity in either direction of the material of the side panels 11 and 12. As best seen in FIGURES 1 and 6, the front panel 14 is arranged with its direction of stretch horizontally or girth-Wise of the wearer. The side extremities of the front panel 14 converge into a pair of relatively narrow hip pieces 15 and 16 (FIGURE 1), each of which converges to a narrower width substantially midway between their ends as best seen in FIGURE 10. The hip pieces 16, preferably being formed of satin lastex arranged in the direction of stretch girthwise of the wearer in accordance with the arrows 16a (FIGURE 10), are joined to the right and left ends respectively of the front panel 14 by means of seams 17 and 18.

Overlying the hips and flaring outwardly in planes in clined to the vertical, the hip pieces 15 and 16 are joined at their back edges to the uppermost ends of a Y-shaped back panel 19, best seen in FIGURES 2 and 9. The back panel 19' is cut with its side edges to conform with or match the corresponding curvature of the two side panels 11 and 12, the back panel 19 thus converging downwardly to a point above the lower edge of the garment and thereafter flaring outwardly. The notch-shaped space at the upper end of the Y-shaped panel 19 receives a triangular insert 20 formed of lighter material such, for example, as power net arranged with its direction of major stretch extending vertically. The back panel 19 is, like its companion front and side parts 14, 15 and 16, formed of a relatively heavy material of strong elasticity, such, for example, as satin lastex or double thickness of other limited stretch fabric arranged with its direction of stretch aligned vertically as indicated by the arrow 19a. The direction of major stretch of the side panels 11 and 12 is indicated in FIGURE 1 by the arrows 11a and 12a. Referring to FIGURE 8, it will be observed that the direction arrows 12a are relatively steeply inclined to the vertical. It is also possible to form the side panels with the direction of major stretch somewhat less inclined to the vertical as indicated by the direction arrow 12b in FIGURE 8. The figure shape variations afforded by the shift in the direction of stretch can extend to the firmest control by aligning the direction of lesser stretch and hence stronger forces will be disposed in a girthwise direction. By using a more steeply vertically disposed direction of major stretch, it is possible to give controlled additional fullness in the side panels directly over the hipbones. If it is desired to grade off the difference in elasticity between the framework of the waistband portion and the side panels 11 and 12, crescent-shaped pieces 11' and 12', formed of the same material, can be inserted to introduce pre-sh aped form to the garment.

Referring to FIGURE 7, there is illustrated a lining portion 21 for the front panel 14, the part 21 being formed of relatively lighter, one-way stretch material such Patented Oct, 24, 1961 as fine-grain leno. The lining portion 21 includes an upper section 21a cut with its direction of stretch extending horizontally and a lower section 21b cut with its direction of stretch extending vertically, the two sections being joined in a curved searnline 22 formed of zig-zag stitching for flexibility. The curved line permits a gradual transition from the horizontally non-stretchable lower section, which prevents sideways distortion of the part 14 in its lower area, to the girthwise expansible upper section, including also the flexibility of both lining and outer panel 14 curving upwardly and outwardly on their bias edges into the side sections 15 and 16.

By virtue of the tapering shape of the one-way stretch material of the panel 14, abdominal control is imparted due to the lifting action of the outwardly curving tense stretch leading into and including the side sections 15 and 16 which in turn connect to the Y sections of the back panel 19. In addition, the contours of the front panel give the appearance of slenderizing the figure. The front panel 14 can, as stated, he unlined when more overall elasticity and less abdominal control are desired. In the event a zipper closure (not shown) is used, an unlined front panel can be cut with the one-way stretch direction disposed vertically, thereby afiording strong girthwise forces. If desired, the front and back panels 14 and 19 can be cut to be joined in a single seam over the hip, in this fashion omitting the side sections 15 and 16 and simplifying somewhat the manufacturing -procedure. The side sections 15 and 16, being cut with curved lower edges and substantially straight upper edges, the direction of stretch being girthwise, the resulting action is to flare the lower edge slightly to produce a desirable contour over the natural hipbones of the wearer to shape the flesh rather than force it upward in ,a roll at the waistband. The Y shape of the back panel 19 with its curving edges affords a considerable degree of ease and comfort in the sacroiliac area of the back where the nerve centers should be free of pressure. The tapered center limb of the back panel 19 (FIGURE 2) follows the line of the spine and does not constrict the more extensive expansion of the buttocks in sitting and stooping. It also affords centering stability to the side panels 11 and 12 so that they may expand and contract with motions of the body. The curving upper portions of the back panel provide gradual transition from the vertical elasticity required for all sitting positions to the girthwise elasticity of the upper waistband. The triangular insert 21 (FIGURE 2) between the upper, divergent limbs of the Y-shaped back sections 19 tends to release the arms of the Y to work only in sequence with the side sections 15 and 16 of the waistband.

Referring to FEGURE 3, in which the garment is flattened from the side to reveal more of the front and back portions, it will be observed that there is a continuity of curvature beginning from the lower left-hand edge of the side panel 12 and terminating at the lower right-hand edge thereof.

Referring to FIGURE 4, there is illustrated a modified form of the garment wherein the back of the frame assembly is modified to afiord more firmness in back control. In the arrangement of FIGURE 4, the back panel includes a relatively wider, verticallydisposed lower portion 23 diverging outwardly toward its upper end which terminates in a V-shaped notch 24 to which is stitched a correspondingly shaped upper portion 25 formed integrally with the side sections of the waistband. The upper portion 25, preferably formed of one-way stretch material, is arranged with its direction of stretch girthwise of the wearer as indicated by the direction line 25a, and the lower portion of the garment is arranged with its direction of stretch vertical, as indicated by the directionof-stretch line 23a. A waistband collar 26 can be attached to the portion 25 in the event a built-up waistline is desired. It will be observed, however, that the contouring of the portions, below the collar 26 accommodate the flesh of the hips and do not cause it to be pressed up into the extension portion which would in turn form a roll of flesh.

Referring generally to FIGURES 11-l8, there are illustrated panty girdle embodiments of the invention in which leg portions replace the conventional skirt configuration, which is characteristic of the garments disclosed by FIGURES 1-10. The panty girdle identified by the numeral 30 includes a waist-enveloping and front and back frame assembly 3-1 which, referring in particular to FIGURE 12, includes a front panel 3-2 Which curves downwardly from the upper or waistband portion to terminate at its lower end in a bifurcated portion 33. Two side or hip sections 34 and 35 are joined to the upper end of the front panel 32, the side portions having their lower edges curved to continue the continuity of the curvatures of the mating edges of the front panel. A Y-shaped back panel 36 is secured at the upper ends of its arms to the respective side portions 34 and 35, the back panel having its edges curved downwardly to complete the continuous curvature defined by the front panel and side portions. The back panel 36 terminates at its lower end in a flared and notched tip 37. The front panel 32., the side or hip portions 34 and 35, and the back panel 36, together constituting the basic frame assembly of the garment, are preferably formed of a relatively strongly resilient material such, for example, as satin lastex, having a single direction of stretch. The several pieces are so cut and arranged that this direction of stretch in the front panel 32 is directed substantially horizontally as indicated by the direction-of-stretch arrow 32a; is directed enerally vertically in the back panel 36 as indicated by the direction-of-stretch arrow 36a; and is directed gen erally horizontally in the side portions 34 and 35 as indicated by the direction-of-stretch arrows 34a and 35a.

Fitted within the basic frame assembly and secured,

thereto are a pair of side panels 38 and 3 9, preferably formed of a relatively more resilient material than the frame assembly and having two directions of stretch. one exceeding the other, such, for example, as a knitted material commonly known as power net. The side panels 38 and 39 are cut and arranged in the garment with the predominant or major direction-of-stretch indicated by the direction-of-stretch arrows 38a and 39a, respectively. In the finished garment these arrows incline downwardly to the rear. If desired, the side panels 38 and 39 can be formed of two pieces of material, one piece comprising a crescent-shaped hip reinforcement 380 or 39c, to graduate the resiliency of the contours of the side panels over the hips. Fitted within the arms of the Y-shaped back panel 36 to be interposed in the waistband structure of the garment is a triangular insert 40, preferably formed of a material which is relatively more resilient than that of the basic frame assembly such, for example, as power net.

The leg portions of the garment 30 are fashioned from the lower portions of the side panels 38 and 39*, from the lower ends 33 and 37, respectively, of the front and back panels, and from crotch pieces 41, 42, and 43 (FIGURES 12, 13, 16 and 17). As best seen in FIGURE 13, the pieces .41 and 43 complete the leg or thigh-enveloping portions, the part 41 being joined at its back edge to a lower edge 39' of the side panel 39 and at its front edge to a lower edge 39"" of the side panel 39. The part. 42: is;

similarly joined to the side panel 38 to complete the other leg portion. The central crotch piece 42 is sewn to the upper edges of the parts 41 and 43, and to the front and back panels 32 and 36, respectively, adjacent their lower edges in seams 32' and 36'. As best seen in FIGURE 11, the bifurcated lower portion 33 of the front panel 32 carries a pair of garter elements 44 and 45 at its ends. The portion 33 partially spans the distance between the legs, each part thereof having a free inner edge which is drawn taut by tension imposed thereon bythe leg portions of the garment and by the integral connection to the upper portion of the front panel.

Also in accordance with the invention, the garment is provided with means to facilitate bending and sitting without imposing abnormal or uncomfortable vertical stresses on the wearer. Pleat constructions 46 and 47 (FIGURE 13) are provided at the back of the garment adjacent the upper end of the leg portions. In the arrangement of FIGURES 11-13, the pleat construction is incorporated to the lower back edge of the side panels 38 and 39, one such construction being shown in FIGURE 12 in the side panel 39. Fullness is provided at this portion of the side panel which is taken up by means of a fold or pleat delineated by the broken lines 47a. As best seen in FIGURE 13, when the wearer stands erect, the pleat constructions 46 and 47 fold beneath the buttocks along these lines. When the wearer bends or sits, the pleat constructions open to afford additional length where the extension necessity requires it, the horizontal figure-controlling forces which remain in action. In this fashion, uncomfortable garter pull is eased and back strain is avoided.

Referring to FIGURE 14, there is illustrated an alternative construction for achieving the freedom of motion described above. In the arrangement of FIGURE 14, folds or lateral tucks 48 and 49 of approximately inch depth when folded, are formed in the lower back edges of leg portions 50 and 51 (FIGURE 15). The back leg portions 50 and 51 are preferably formed of a resilient material such as power net arranged with its direction of maximum stretch extending horizontally as indicated by the direction-of-stretch arrows 50a and 51a. To accommodate the leg portions 50 and 51 a side portion 52 of the garment is cut in the configuration indicated at FIGURE 18. This side portion 52 includes a rectangular cut-out 53 at its lower back edge to receive the leg portion 51, and the tucked, leg portions 50 and 51 are joined in a center seam 54 to complete the leg-enveloping assembly. The unsewn tucks 48 and 49 expand with bending or sitting and thereby relieve garter strain at its point of occurrence. The two side leg portions are capable of operating independently, one unfolding with the bending action of one leg while the other remains folded.

While the invention has been described above having reference to specific preferred embodiments thereof, it will be understood that it can take various other forms and arrangements and should not, therefore, be regarded as limited except as defined by the following claims.

I claim:

1. In a foundation garment, a downwardly-tapering front panel, a downwardly-tapering rear panel, said front and rear panels diverging symmetrically upwardly to meet and define arches at the upper sides of the garment, the opposing edges of the front and back panels defining continuous curvatures from points adjacent the lower edges of the front panel to the lower edges of the back panel, and a pair of side panels formed of relatively elastic material having components of resilience in both horizontal and vertical directions disposed respectively within said continuously curving edges, said front and rear panels, including the arches defined thereby, being formed of material having relatively stronger elasticity than the side panels, the front and rear panels and the arches formed thereby establishing a framework for supporting the side panels.

2. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 1, said back panel being substantially Y-shaped, and a triangular insert piece fitted between the arms of the Y to constitute a portion of the waistband of the garment.

3. In a foundation garment as set forth in claim 1, said back panel tapering downwardly to a point above the lower edge of the garment and diverging outwardly therebeneath.

4. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 1, said front and back panels being comprised of at least two fabric pieces, and a pair of hip pieces joining the upper edges of the front and back panels.

5. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 1, said front and back panels being formed of resilient material having substantially one direction of stretch, said front panel being arranged with its direction of stretch extendinggenerally girthwise of the wearer, and said back panel being arranged with its direction of stretch arranged substantially vertically of the wearer.

6. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 5, said side panels being formed of resilient material having two mutually perpendicular directions of stretch, one exceeding the other, both of said panels being arranged with the major direction of stretch inclining downwardly to the rear.

7. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 6, said back panel being substantially Y-shaped, and a triangular insert fitted between the arms of the Y to become part of the waistband of the garment, said triangular piece having one predominant direction of stretch arranged vertically in the garment.

8. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 1, the lower back portions of said side panels including expansible tuck means having predetermined, generally horizontally disposed fold lines extending transversely of the garment to points spaced rearwardly of the transverse horizontal axis of the garment and laterally of the longitudinal horizontal axis of the garment to fold when the wearer stands vertically and adapted to open when the wearer bends one or both legs at the hips.

9. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 8, said foundation garment including a pair of leg portions, said tuck means being disposed partly in one leg portion and partly in the other.

10. In a foundation garment as set forth in claim 1 including a pair of leg portions, said front panel including a bifurcated lower end edge-wise secured to the respective leg portions and a crotch piece joined to the front panel above the bifurcated end.

11. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 10, including a pair of garter elements secured to the respective ends of the bifurcated lower end of the front panel, whereby the garter tension is absorbed by the front panel and transmitted to the hips of the wearer, whereby garter tension strengthens the abdomen control.

12. A foundation garment as set forth in claim 1 including crescent shaped fabric pieces secured to the garment within the arches defined by the front and rear panels at the upper side areas and means to attach the crescent shaped fabric pieces to the side panels.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 233,001 Miller Oct. 5, 1880 363,812 Drewry May 31, 1887 2,074,975 Baatz Mar. 23, 1937 2,320,408 Clark June 1, 1943 2,344,374 Stephens Mar. 14, 1944 2,506,826 Ford May 9, 1950 2,523,409 Wittenberg Sept. 26, 1950 2,563,308 Chase et al. Aug. 7, 1951 2,732,556 Erteszek Jan. 31, 1956 FOREIGN PATENTS 533,268 Canada Sept. 18, 1954

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