US2705800A - Brassiere frame - Google Patents

Brassiere frame Download PDF

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Publication number
US2705800A
US2705800A US463386A US46338654A US2705800A US 2705800 A US2705800 A US 2705800A US 463386 A US463386 A US 463386A US 46338654 A US46338654 A US 46338654A US 2705800 A US2705800 A US 2705800A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
wire
round
section
brassiere
flexibility
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US463386A
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English (en)
Inventor
Schwartz Marcus
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
S&S Industries Inc
Original Assignee
S&S Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to BE540593D priority Critical patent/BE540593A/xx
Application filed by S&S Industries Inc filed Critical S&S Industries Inc
Priority to US463386A priority patent/US2705800A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Priority to GB10407/55A priority patent/GB802156A/en
Publication of US2705800A publication Critical patent/US2705800A/en
Priority to FR1130003D priority patent/FR1130003A/fr
Priority to CH331188D priority patent/CH331188A/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/12—Component parts
    • A41C3/122—Stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/12—Component parts
    • A41C3/122—Stay means
    • A41C3/128—Stay means using specific materials

Definitions

  • the weight of the bust of a large woman would necessitate the use of a Wire with a heavier round cross-section than the weight of a bust of a Woman which is small by size and weight.
  • the manufacturing of brassieres and of the arcuate wires of the round cross-section is a mass production item, it does not lend itself to the individual fitting of a diflerent thickness of a round crosssection for each particular weight by bust size. Therefore, one thickness of round cross-section arcuate wire has been developed, which does an adequate job for all sizes.
  • this arcuate wire of round cross-section must be of sufficient rigidity to produce the required support in the vertical direction, it is also comparatively rigid in the transverse direction because in a wire with a round crosssection, the rigidity of the wire is the same in any direction.
  • arcuate wires of round cross-section have been used in brassieres, but such wires have proven unsatisfacory, since an excess amount of pressure was exerted against the body in a transverse direction, that is, at right angles to the radii of the wire curvature.
  • Wires for use in brassieres to function properly, and withstand undue pressure against the body of the wearer, must be of sufhcient rigidity to produce the required support in the vertical direction, have a certain degree of flexibility in the vertical direction and have a greater flexibility and resiliency in the transverse direction, that is, to the plane of the curved wire. If a curved Wire of round crosssection is sufliciently resilient in the lateral direction, its use in brassieres is not sufficiently rigid in the vertical direction to properly support the bust when worn.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of one of a pair of brassiere wires comprising the framework of a brassiere;
  • Fig. 2 is an enlarged sectional View taken along line 2-2 of Fig. 1.
  • numeral 10 represents one of a pair of wires comprising a supporting frame for a brassiere.
  • a special type of round cross-section hypereutectoid steel is selected for the manufacture of a substantially rectangular cross-sectional member for a brassiere frame and such steel member undergoes certain operations during its processing to change the inherent grain structure in order to produce the desired degree of flexibility and resilience.
  • This steel member in its annealed condition, has a crystal structure containing free ferrite and pearlite. The ferrite shows up as white areas surrounding the pearlite on polished and etched specimens. Under one hundred magnifications with a microscope, the structure shows equiaxed polyhedral grains.
  • This special wire after further reduction of diameter, has an overlapping of the elongated grains which adds considerably to the strength of the wire material.
  • the wire has a high tensile strength and high hardness due to the reduction of area caused by the wire drawing operations and is now in condition for further processing.
  • the round wire is now ready for a special sequence of operations to make it a substantially rectangular crosssectional shape with round edges, as shown in Fig. 2, which is the desired shape for use in brassieres.
  • the other method of fabricating this wire is to have the round wire cut to the desired length'and then formed into an arcuate shape, as shown in Fig. 1, by bending the wire beyond its elastic limit, by previously determining the modulus of elasticity of the wire, which permits a certain amount of spring-back to occur. During this curving the grains actually slide over one another an infinitesimal amount Without destroying the bond of the amorphous cement holding them together. This over straining of the wire causes the grains to be compressed on the inside of the curve and elongated on the outside, thereby inducing additional residual stresses in the wire and causing it to be in an unstable condition.
  • the wire is then baked for about one-half hour at temperature between 300 F. and 500 F. to stress relieve it. A certain amount of spring-back which occurs during stress relieving is allowed for during the manufacture.
  • the sharp edges of the ends of the wire are taken care of by either the forming of spherical terminals, or the placing of a rounded part upon each end.
  • the round wire is then flattened into a rectangular shaped cross-section with rounded edges, as shown in Fig. 2, or into other shapes either by passing it through a rolling mill, flattening it in a power press, or drop hammer, forcing the grains to become more closely packed thereby reducing some of the bending stresses by reorienting the structure.
  • This sets up additional stresses due to the cold work of pressing. Th s cold working realigns the grains into the desirable condition for additional strength and higher hardness thereby permitting greater resilience. This is also due in part to the change in shape of the section in the transverse plane and this combination of effects imparts the desired mechanical properties.
  • the unstable condition caused by residual stresses within the structure from cold working are then relieved by a low temperature thermal treatment, as hereinbefore stated.
  • the special sequence of operations needed to produce the correct type of wire for the purpose described, combined with the unique forming operations and thermal treatments, permit manufacture of a product with a combination of flexibility and resilience heretofore unavailable and novel for use in brassiere framework;
  • the wire is treated so as to be completely rust-resistent. It may be electro-plated, metallic coated, or receive a baked enamel finish to provide a smooth finish coating.
  • Load and deflection tests were made to determine the flexibility and resilience of round sections of wire versus rectangular shaped wire, and such tests were conducted on a precision testing instrument commonly used for such tests in the following manner.
  • a brassiere wire frame of standard type round cross-section was placed on the hooks of a spring testing instrument and extended .625 in which condition it exerted a load of 28 ounces.
  • a rectangular section was then placed on the same hooks (after removing the round section frame) and also extended .625" in which condition it exerted a load of 28 ounces.
  • the loads exerted are exactly the same.
  • the load placed upon the round Wire was exerted along the axis of the arc and it tended to further open the arc to the point of extension amounting to .625". This is the amount of extension required to fit the wire around the breast of the wearer.
  • the flat wire did not take a set even at-2 of deflection and could have been deflected more if desired.
  • the round and rectangular section ratio is 28 divided by 1.9 and equals 14.75, at /8" deflection in both planes.
  • the ratio of the two wire sections is 64 divided by 4.8 and equals 13.3, for a transverse deflection of 1 For other conditions it varies between 12.5 to 14.2.
  • the conclusion with respect to the ratio of loads in the transverse plane shows the round wire to be quite stiff laterally.
  • the round wire exerts about 13 times as much load against the body as does the flat wire.
  • the flat wire because of its greater flexibility (or less rigidity) requires only 7 /2% of the load to deflect it laterally, than does the round wire.
  • the increased ability for the rectangular section to be flexible in the transverse plane at a direction at right angles to the longitudinal direction is accomplished by the unique shaping of the rectangular wire so that the section modulus about the neutral bending axis in this plane is of a different value than it is about the other axis.
  • the section modulus of the round section is the same in both planes, therefore the flexibility in the transverse plane is not improved.
  • the amount of temper is related to the hardness and tensile strength.
  • the desired temper of the flattened section, to bring the elastic limit to the correct value for proper flexibility and resilience is accomplished by a correct determination of hardness in the wire before forming it into an arcuate shape, which is determined by the amount of cold work done in the flattening process and by a low temperature thermal treatment. The control of these operations can bring about the desired properties and temper.
  • the proper amount of temper needed has been determined by actual test and is regulated by quality control methods verified by Rockwell Hardness Tests to maintain the proper condition. By actual tests, on sample parts and from records made, the hardness that provides the proper mechanical properties of tensile strength, temper, resilience and flexibility is. Rockwell C42C49.
  • Such wires When a pair of such wires are used or positioned into a slotted section of a brassiere, dress or undergarment, such as a brassiere slip, it is found to have ust the proper amount of lateral and vertical flexibility and vertical and lateral rigidity.
  • Such wires provide the correct vertical support for the breasts and the proper resiliency and flexibility laterally so that there are no undue pressures against the body of the wearer and the brass iere can be worn comfortably the entire day and evening.
  • the thickness of the wire it is possible to form the thickness of the wire, either It is also desirable that the opposed longitudinal edges of the wire remain slightly curved for greater comfort to the wearer.
  • a l I Asubstantially rigid arcuate wire brassiere frame of hypereutectoid steel of substantially rectangular cross section having its longer dimension extending radially of the curve, and having a greater degree of lateral flexibility than longitudinal extensibility, said lateral flexi 'lity being approximately fourteen times the lateral fiexi t ity of a round wire of the same cross sectional area under the same load and having the same longitudinal extensibility as the round wire, permitting lateral deflection of the Wire from the unstressed plane of the Wire to fit the contours of the body of the wearer With- 10 5 out causing a torsional twisting of the wire along the curve of the arc.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
US463386A 1954-10-20 1954-10-20 Brassiere frame Expired - Lifetime US2705800A (en)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
BE540593D BE540593A (pm) 1954-10-20
US463386A US2705800A (en) 1954-10-20 1954-10-20 Brassiere frame
GB10407/55A GB802156A (en) 1954-10-20 1955-04-12 Improvements in brassiere frames
FR1130003D FR1130003A (fr) 1954-10-20 1955-04-25 Armature de soutien-gorge
CH331188D CH331188A (fr) 1954-10-20 1955-08-17 Armature de soutien-gorge

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US463386A US2705800A (en) 1954-10-20 1954-10-20 Brassiere frame

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US2705800A true US2705800A (en) 1955-04-12

Family

ID=23839903

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US463386A Expired - Lifetime US2705800A (en) 1954-10-20 1954-10-20 Brassiere frame

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US2705800A (pm)
BE (1) BE540593A (pm)
CH (1) CH331188A (pm)
FR (1) FR1130003A (pm)
GB (1) GB802156A (pm)

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2746052A (en) * 1955-04-04 1956-05-22 S & S Ind Inc Brassiere frame
US2782417A (en) * 1955-11-07 1957-02-26 Magidson Herbert Reinforcing means for brassieres
US2900982A (en) * 1956-07-13 1959-08-25 Lopez-Henriquez Miguel Brassiere construction
DE1072932B (de) * 1960-01-14 Spiesshofer & Braun Heubach (Wurtt) Versteifungsbugel fur Büstenhalter
US2973763A (en) * 1958-02-27 1961-03-07 Rowell Ross Fredrick Brassiere wire frame
US3067750A (en) * 1961-11-03 1962-12-11 S & S Ind Inc Garment supporting elements
US3126007A (en) * 1964-03-24 jonas
US3378012A (en) * 1966-03-29 1968-04-16 S & S Ind Inc Brassiere supporting frames
US5141470A (en) * 1991-09-19 1992-08-25 S&S Industries, Inc. Monocoque breast supporting frames
US5527202A (en) * 1994-02-01 1996-06-18 S & S Industries, Inc. Frame for brassiere cups

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US145285A (en) * 1873-12-09 Improvement in wires
US1989303A (en) * 1932-10-14 1935-01-29 Arthur S Alberts Garment
US2527521A (en) * 1947-01-10 1950-10-31 Armco Steel Corp Spring and method

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US145285A (en) * 1873-12-09 Improvement in wires
US1989303A (en) * 1932-10-14 1935-01-29 Arthur S Alberts Garment
US2527521A (en) * 1947-01-10 1950-10-31 Armco Steel Corp Spring and method

Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1072932B (de) * 1960-01-14 Spiesshofer & Braun Heubach (Wurtt) Versteifungsbugel fur Büstenhalter
US3126007A (en) * 1964-03-24 jonas
US2746052A (en) * 1955-04-04 1956-05-22 S & S Ind Inc Brassiere frame
US2782417A (en) * 1955-11-07 1957-02-26 Magidson Herbert Reinforcing means for brassieres
US2900982A (en) * 1956-07-13 1959-08-25 Lopez-Henriquez Miguel Brassiere construction
US2973763A (en) * 1958-02-27 1961-03-07 Rowell Ross Fredrick Brassiere wire frame
US3067750A (en) * 1961-11-03 1962-12-11 S & S Ind Inc Garment supporting elements
US3378012A (en) * 1966-03-29 1968-04-16 S & S Ind Inc Brassiere supporting frames
US5141470A (en) * 1991-09-19 1992-08-25 S&S Industries, Inc. Monocoque breast supporting frames
EP0534625A1 (en) * 1991-09-19 1993-03-31 S & S Industries, Inc. Monocoque breast supporting frames
US5527202A (en) * 1994-02-01 1996-06-18 S & S Industries, Inc. Frame for brassiere cups

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CH331188A (fr) 1958-07-15
BE540593A (pm)
GB802156A (en) 1958-10-01
FR1130003A (fr) 1957-01-30

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