US2575700A - Wearing apparel and method of making the same - Google Patents

Wearing apparel and method of making the same Download PDF

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US2575700A
US2575700A US175325A US17532550A US2575700A US 2575700 A US2575700 A US 2575700A US 175325 A US175325 A US 175325A US 17532550 A US17532550 A US 17532550A US 2575700 A US2575700 A US 2575700A
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zones
tube
sleeves
garment
portions
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William W Artzt
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B9/00Undergarments
    • A41B9/06Undershirts; Chemises
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2300/00Details of shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2300/20Inserts
    • A41B2300/22Elastic inserts

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to wearing apparel, and is particularly directed to improved garments, such as undershirts, garments of the T-shirt type, and the like.
  • One of the objects of the present invention is to provide form fitting garments of the char acter indicated which afford maximum comfort to the wearer in the torso and shoulder areas, without restricting movement of the wearer's arms, and yet retain their shape after repeated use and laundering thereof.
  • Another object is to provide a garment of the character indicated, a single size of which will conform to and properly fit torsos of different size wearers.
  • Another object is to provide such garments wherein the body portions and the sleeves may each be constructed of an integrally continuously knitted piece of fabric.
  • a further object is to provide such garments in a simple and economical manner.
  • a garment of the character indicated which preferably is constructed of a circularly-knitted fabric comprising a one-piece integral body portion or form, wherein the sides and shoulders of such body portion have longitudinal zones which are of a knit more yieldable laterally than adjacent portions and the remainder of the body portion, and wherein the sleeves are each formed of continuous knitted tubing having longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable than the remainder of the sleeves and are joined to the body portion with the yieldable zones of the sleeves contiguous to the yieldable zones at the sides and shoulders of the body portion, the above mentioned zones preferably being plait-knitted and adapted to retain their shape when relaxed and the remainder of the garment being of a conventional plain or jersey knit.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan view of the body portion of an undershirt embodying the present invention as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric, shown in broken lines;
  • Fig. 2 is an elevational View of the front of the body portion folded substantially into a plane indicated by the line 22 on Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 3 is a perspective View of a completed um 2 dershirt, of the T-shirt type, including the body portion of Figs. 1 and 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a plan view of a modified body portion of an undershirt embodying the present invention as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric, shown in broken lines;
  • Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the completed undershirt, including the modified body portion of Fig. 4;
  • Fig. 6 is a plan view of sleeve portions for the undershirts of Figs. 3 or 5 as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric;
  • Fig. '7 is a plan view similar to Fig. 6, but showing sleeve portions cut from a fiat tube of circularly-knitted fabric according to still another modification of the present invention.
  • the zones l2 are plait-knitted in a manner to stretch readily, whereby when a garment is made from the tube l0 in the manner hereinafter described, the zone [2 will afford maximum comfort and ease of movement to the wearer in the body, shoulder and armhole areas, which zones readily conform to the parts of the body of the wearer, while being worn, and return to their original shape upon removal of the garment from the body of the wearer, and after repeated washings.
  • the remainder of tube I0 may be of a conventional knit or other fabric.
  • the zones I2 may be of an accordion knit such as illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent 2,201,980, wherein a self-pleating machine knitted, double-rib fabric has fewer wales on the inside surface at the fold lines than at the outside surface of the fold line.
  • the fabric may have one or more wales missing on one surface at every sixth, eighth or tenth wale position and leave two adjacent wales missing in the other surface at every fifth and sixth, seventh and eighth, or ninth and tenth wale position, respectively, with the missing wales on one surface being generally equi-distantly staggered in relation to the missing wales of the other surface.
  • the thread forming the fabric is sufficiently tight in relation to the gauge and thickness of the thread to cause the fabric to fold itself in accordion fashion along the lines of the missing wales.
  • Such a knit permits localized stretch at any point or area within the zones [2 permitting greater comfort and freedom of movement to the wearer of the garment than is provided by conventional garments of this character. This is highly desirable, particularly in torso, shoulder and armhole areas. r e
  • the latter is efiected by removing some of the needles from one or both sets in this zone'ofthe machine and feeding the thread. or: yarn.alternately to needles in the two diiierent sets or rows of needles.
  • the thread forming each course forms a loop alternately on opposite sides .of. the fabric over a suitable width and'then for-either two or three stitchesonly on one face of the fabric and then again on both faces for thesame width and then; again onlyon the opposite facefor either. twoor three stitches;
  • the double-rib fabric zones I2 are produced by removing; or rendering'ineifective and inoperative, one'ortwo needles"at'regularintervalsin' each of the two rows or sets of needlesiin'the' corresponding zones of the machine, but with the spacesof the removed needlesof. one rowbeing' staggered .in relation tothe'spaces of'the removed needlesiof the other row,.and' then knitting each. thread over all the remaining needles'withxsufiicient'tension' so.as-to cause the fabric to fold by itself around the points wherethe. one or; two needles are missing.
  • such.needles being generally, referredto as the cylinder needles,,while the other row of'needles. is. arranged generally. radially. and more or. less.
  • machines maybe either of thetype in. which the needlebanks. rotate in relation to. non-rotating cams. and in relation tench-rotating thread. carriers. or they may. beoi the type in which the-needle banks do. not rotatev and. instead. the actuating cams rotate along. withthe -thread.car-- riers. or. thread. guides. Any of. such machines. may. be. readily arranged to knitthe. doubleerib. or. pl'aitstitch at.- certain diametrically opposed. zones. and .a. plain. .orjersey. knit .at the. remainder of. the. tube, and thereby produce. acircularlyknittediabric tube such.asthat.showninbroken. lines inFig. L
  • the zones l2 each consist of. six plaits. or folds formed as. set. forthabove, althoughagreater .or. lesser number of .plaits may be. used dependingupon the. yieldability. that is desired'in. the. completed. undershirt, and .in .cut-' ting thebody portion. Moi. theundershirt, the
  • tube 1.0. is initially; flattenedwith the; zones, l2.
  • the neckopening is formed. by cutting thetube transversely alongthe line I8 having-an arcuate contour shaped'tdprovide the front of the neck opening and along the line 20 havingan arcuate contour shaped to provide theeback of. the neck.
  • An. armhole 26 in the shape of an elongated elliptical opening having its major axis inclined relative to the longitudinal axis of the tube It, is formed in each layer or wall of the knitted fabric tube, within the plaited zones I-Zthereof; adjacent to but spaced from the upper edge a distance whereby the upper portions of; the armholes and the lines 18 and 29 so define a section 24 and adjacent portions which eventually in-the finished garment will provide seamless shoulder sections 28.
  • the foregoing operationsin accordance. with theinvention are preferably performed simultaneously by stamping the. body. portion from the tube by means of blanking; dies which sever the body. portion at the lower.
  • edge I6 and the lines l8 and 20, and cut out the superimposed armholes 26 may be performed by manually severing the tube as indicated, for example by shears or scissors.
  • the shoulder sections 28 include zones 30' of double-ribbed or plait-knit fabric. extendingfrom the neck opening to the armholes, and zones 32, of similar plait-knit fabric,. extend downwardly from the arm holes 2.5 to the. lower edge "5 of the body portion.
  • zones. 31 will..be. positioned at theopposite side. edges of the body portion while zones 3%) willform.
  • the. crests of. the shoulder sections In order to reduce the downward slope of the crests of the shoulder sections, and also to decrease the distance around the neck opening, the. pleats in zones 3
  • thebody portion-l4 may be finished by securing suitable binding tape around. the edge ofthe neck opening and also around'the-edges of arm openings.
  • a sleeveless undershirtv thus formed has the advantage of readily conforming to the shoulder and torso contours of the wearer, by reason of the plaited zones 30. and 32 disposed at the sides'of the torso and tops of the shoulders, respectively, thereby affording greater comfort and freedom of movement of the wearer; and as previously mentioned a single undershirt thus formed will conform to and properly'fitthe torsos of different size wearers.
  • a. tube of knitted fabric 34 shown in Fig. 6 is provided in the manner previously recited .in connection with producing tube [0, which. eventually form the sleeves in the finished garment.
  • the tube 34 includes diametrically opposed, longitudinal zones 3% and 38 of double-ribbedor plait-knitted fabric and inter mediate portions of conventional plain or jersey knit.
  • the tube 34 is formed of such length that pairs of sleeves may be cut therefrom without waste.
  • the tube 3 is flattened, with the zones 36 and 38 disposed at the opposite side edges thereof, preparatory to cutting the sleeves therefrom.
  • the lower edges of the sleeves are formed by cutting the tube transversely along substantially straight lines 40, which extend at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the tube, and the upper edges of the sleeves, that is, the edges to be joined to the arm holes, are formed by cutting the tube transversely along substantially straight lines 42 which are inclined relative to the tube axis. It can be seen that a length of the tube, between adjacent lines 40, is sufficient to provide a pair of sleeves 44 and 46, and therefore, waste may be eliminated by forming the length of the tube in multiples of the desired length.
  • Each of the pair of sleeves 44 and 46 formed as indicated above, will include a relatively long outer longitudinal zone 48 (Fig. 3) of double-- ribbed or plaited knit fabric and a relatively short inner zone 50 of similar knit fabric by reason of the inclination of lines 42, and intermediate front and rear sections of conventional jersey knit.
  • the sleeves 44 and 46 are assembled to the body portion l4, at armholes 23 of the latter, with'the outer zone 43 of each aligned with the adjacent zone 30 and the inner zone 56 of each aligned with the adjacent zone 32, as illustrated in Fig. 3.
  • each inner zone 50 of the sleeve and zone 32 of the body portion have the plaits thereof sewn over the other to increase the strength of the seam between the sleeve and body portion at the under-arm section thereof.
  • the sleeves 44 and 46 are sewn in the arm holes 26 along the line 52 (Figs. 1 and 3) to provide a seam allowance between the edge of the arm hole opening in the body portion and the stitching.
  • the sleeves have been illustrated and described as each having outer and inner zones of double-ribbed or plaited knit fabric, it is to be understood that, if desired, the sleeves may each have one such zone, preferably the outer zone 43.
  • the tube 34a shown in Fig. 7 and having the zone 38a only is employed, and the tube is severed transversely as at lines 40a into suitable lengths which may be subsequently severed at an angle such as at lines 42a, so that the resulting sleeve forming sections 44a and 46a of the tube each have an area 48a of relatively yieldable fabric extending along the long fold edge thereof.
  • An abbreviated collar or collarette 54 is sewn into the neck opening (Fig. 3) and is preferably formed of a circularly-knitted, one-piece, seamless tube of the desired size. Similar knitted edging (not shown) may be applied to the ends of sleeves 44 and 46, or the sleeves may be merely self -hemmed as illustrated.
  • FIG. 4 an undershirt is there shown formed according to a modified embodiment of this invention.
  • a tube 56 similar in all respects to the tube [0 previously described, is shown in broken lines and flattened so that the double-rib or plaited longitudinal sections 58 of the tube are superimposed on each other.
  • the body portion 60, of the modified undershirt, is formed from the tube 56 by cutting the latter transversely along line 62, constituting the lower edge of body portion 60, and transversely along line 64 at the top.
  • the back of the neck opening is provided by cutting along the arcuate line 65 extending from the line 64 to one side edge or fold of the folded tube, and the front of the neck opening is provided by cutting the folded tube along the arcuate line 68 extending from the line 64 to the opposite side edge of the tube.
  • An elliptical opening 16 is cut in each of the layers of fabric of the flattened tube to form arm holes. The openings are disposed centrally within the plaited sections or zones 58 and open at their top ends at the straight portion of I tube 56 in the manner heretofore described, the
  • the undershirt is completed by setting sleeves 44' and 46', which are similar to sleeves 44 and 46 of Figs. 3 and 6, into the arm hole openings 10 and stitching such sleeves at their inner ends to the body portion along dotted lines 86 (Fig. 4) to provide suitable seam allowance.
  • the sleeves inserted in the arm openings as above include relatively long outer longitudinal zones 48' of doubleribbed or plaited knit fabric and relatively short inner zones 56 of similar knit fabric.
  • a continuous, circular-knitted, one-piece, seamless collar or neck band 88 is stitched in the neck-opening defined by lines 68 in the front and 66 in the back.
  • the present invention provides improved undershirts having body portions and sleeves each formed preferably by circular knitting, and having sections at the sides of the torso, at the shoulders and at spaced portions of the sleeves that are more yieldable than the remaining portions to thereby afford maximum comfort and freedom of movement to the wearer, without sacrificing the ability to retain its original shape, even after repeated launderings, and which can be manufactured in a simple and economical manner.
  • a garment formed of flexible material comprising a body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral with said front and back sections between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides of said body from said arm openings to the bottom edge of said body and along said shoulder portions from said arm openings to said neck opening, said zones extending along ass-5,200
  • a garment formed of a fabric comprising a bodyhaving front and back sections, neck and arm openingsand shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions, and a pair of sleeves each formed With longitudinal zones more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said sleeve at opposite sides thereof; said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides andv shoulder portions of the body, respectively.
  • A, garment formed of a fabric comprising a body having'front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions, and a pair of circularly knitted one-piece sleeves each formed with at least one longitudinal sleeve zone of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the said sleeve, said sleeves being secured to said arm openings with the said sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the shoulder portions of the body.
  • a garment formed of a knitted fabric com prising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral. with said front and back sections between said neck and arm. openings, said body being formed-with longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending-along the opposite sides of said body from the bottom edge thereof to said arm openings and along said shoulder portions from said arm openings to said neck opening, and a pair of circularly knitted onepiece sleeves each formed with longitudinalzones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder thereof at opposite sides of said sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones disposed in end to end relation tothe adjacent ones of said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of the body, respectively.
  • a garment formed of a knittedfabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings. and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides of the body between the bottom edge thereof and said arm openings and at said shoulder portions, a pair of circularly knitted.
  • one-piece sleeves each formed with longitudinal. zones at opposite sides thereof of a knit more, yieldable laterally than the remainder of they sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of the body, respectively, and means restricting the lateral yielding of the side body zones and contiguous ones of said sleeve zones at their meeting ends.
  • a garment formed of a knitted fabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral with said front and baoksections between said neck opening and 8, said arm openings, saidbody being formed with longitudinal zones at the opposite sides extending from thebottom edgeithereof to.
  • a garment formed of a knitted fabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones at the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body, a pair of circularly knitted one-piece sleeves each formed with longitudinal zones at the opposite sides of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with the opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of said body, respectively, and a circularly knitted one-piece neck band secured in said neck opening.
  • a garment of the class described comprising forming a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, severing both layers of the flattened tube on a line above said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment and shoulder portions therebetween, forming a tube of fabric with a longitudinal zone of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, severing the latter tube into a pair of sleeves, and securing said sleeves in the cutout open areas with said longitudinal zone of each of the sleeves contiguous to the zone at each side of said shoulder portions.
  • the method of forming a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening'the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, severing both layers of the flattened tube on a contoured line arched above said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment and shoulder portions therebetween, circularly knitting a second tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, severing the latter tube into a pair of sleeves, and securing said sleeves in the cutout open areas 10 with said opposed zones of the sleeves contiguous to the zones at the sides of the first tube and at said shoulder portions, respectively.

Description

Nov. 20, 1951 w. w. ARTZT 2,575,700
WEARING APPAREL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1950 w WILL/0M 1M flnrzr- INVENTOR.
Patented Nov. 20, 1951 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE WEARING APPAREL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME 13 Claims.
The present invention relates to wearing apparel, and is particularly directed to improved garments, such as undershirts, garments of the T-shirt type, and the like.
One of the objects of the present invention is to provide form fitting garments of the char acter indicated which afford maximum comfort to the wearer in the torso and shoulder areas, without restricting movement of the wearer's arms, and yet retain their shape after repeated use and laundering thereof.
Another object resides in the provision of garments of the character indicated which, when worn, will readily and automatically conform to the various parts of the body of the wearer covered thereby.
Another object is to provide a garment of the character indicated, a single size of which will conform to and properly fit torsos of different size wearers.
Another object is to provide such garments wherein the body portions and the sleeves may each be constructed of an integrally continuously knitted piece of fabric.
A further object is to provide such garments in a simple and economical manner.
Other and further objects of the invention will be manifest from the following description and the accompanying drawing.
In accordance with the invention, the foregoing objects are accomplished by providing a garment of the character indicated Which preferably is constructed of a circularly-knitted fabric comprising a one-piece integral body portion or form, wherein the sides and shoulders of such body portion have longitudinal zones which are of a knit more yieldable laterally than adjacent portions and the remainder of the body portion, and wherein the sleeves are each formed of continuous knitted tubing having longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable than the remainder of the sleeves and are joined to the body portion with the yieldable zones of the sleeves contiguous to the yieldable zones at the sides and shoulders of the body portion, the above mentioned zones preferably being plait-knitted and adapted to retain their shape when relaxed and the remainder of the garment being of a conventional plain or jersey knit.
In the accompanying drawing wherein I have illustrated preferred embodiments of my invention:
Fig. 1 is a plan view of the body portion of an undershirt embodying the present invention as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric, shown in broken lines;
Fig. 2 is an elevational View of the front of the body portion folded substantially into a plane indicated by the line 22 on Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a perspective View of a completed um 2 dershirt, of the T-shirt type, including the body portion of Figs. 1 and 2;
Fig. 4 is a plan view of a modified body portion of an undershirt embodying the present invention as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric, shown in broken lines;
Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the completed undershirt, including the modified body portion of Fig. 4;
Fig. 6 is a plan view of sleeve portions for the undershirts of Figs. 3 or 5 as cut from a flat tube of circularly-knitted fabric; and
Fig. '7 is a plan view similar to Fig. 6, but showing sleeve portions cut from a fiat tube of circularly-knitted fabric according to still another modification of the present invention.
Referring to the drawing in detail, and more particularly to Fig. 1, thereof, there is shown in broken lines a flat tube of fabric [0 having diametrically opposed, longitudinal zones l2 of a knit which is more yieldable laterally than adjacent portions and the remainder of the tube. To
accomplish this, the zones l2 are plait-knitted in a manner to stretch readily, whereby when a garment is made from the tube l0 in the manner hereinafter described, the zone [2 will afford maximum comfort and ease of movement to the wearer in the body, shoulder and armhole areas, which zones readily conform to the parts of the body of the wearer, while being worn, and return to their original shape upon removal of the garment from the body of the wearer, and after repeated washings. The remainder of tube I0 may be of a conventional knit or other fabric.
More particularly, the zones I2 may be of an accordion knit such as illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent 2,201,980, wherein a self-pleating machine knitted, double-rib fabric has fewer wales on the inside surface at the fold lines than at the outside surface of the fold line. For example, the fabric may have one or more wales missing on one surface at every sixth, eighth or tenth wale position and leave two adjacent wales missing in the other surface at every fifth and sixth, seventh and eighth, or ninth and tenth wale position, respectively, with the missing wales on one surface being generally equi-distantly staggered in relation to the missing wales of the other surface. The thread forming the fabric is sufficiently tight in relation to the gauge and thickness of the thread to cause the fabric to fold itself in accordion fashion along the lines of the missing wales.
Such a knit permits localized stretch at any point or area within the zones [2 permitting greater comfort and freedom of movement to the wearer of the garment than is provided by conventional garments of this character. This is highly desirable, particularly in torso, shoulder and armhole areas. r e
3 The double-rib knitted portion 12 of the tube may be provided on a double-needle machine, that is, a machine having two juxtaposed sets or rows of needles. Inmaking the ,tube,.a.circularknitting. machine; preferably is utilized wherein certain needles are arranged to form the jersey or plain knit portions and other needles are 811 ranged to form the plait or double-rib zones [2.
The latter is efiected by removing some of the needles from one or both sets in this zone'ofthe machine and feeding the thread. or: yarn.alternately to needles in the two diiierent sets or rows of needles.
In the double-rib fabric zones l2, made on such a machine, the thread forming each course forms a loop alternately on opposite sides .of. the fabric over a suitable width and'then for-either two or three stitchesonly on one face of the fabric and then again on both faces for thesame width and then; again onlyon the opposite facefor either. twoor three stitches;
The double-rib fabric zones I2 are produced by removing; or rendering'ineifective and inoperative, one'ortwo needles"at'regularintervalsin' each of the two rows or sets of needlesiin'the' corresponding zones of the machine, but with the spacesof the removed needlesof. one rowbeing' staggered .in relation tothe'spaces of'the removed needlesiof the other row,.and' then knitting each. thread over all the remaining needles'withxsufiicient'tension' so.as-to cause the fabric to fold by itself around the points wherethe. one or; two needles are missing.
Circular, double. needle row machines upon; which. the tube .Hl' may be..knitted, ,are.exempli fiediby machines madebytheWildman Manufactuning. Company of Morristown, Pennsylvania, whereinboth rows of needles are arranged in a continuous uninterrupted circle, and in. which one. row ofneedles is arranged generally vertical, 1;-
such.needles being generally, referredto as the cylinder needles,,while the other row of'needles. is. arranged generally. radially. and more or. less.
atright'angles to the cylinder needles,..the needles of this. other row beinggenerally referred. toas the dial needles- Thecireulardouble needle row. machinesmaybe either of thetype in. which the needlebanks. rotate in relation to. non-rotating cams. and in relation tench-rotating thread. carriers. or they may. beoi the type in which the-needle banks do. not rotatev and. instead. the actuating cams rotate along. withthe -thread.car-- riers. or. thread. guides. Any of. such machines. may. be. readily arranged to knitthe. doubleerib. or. pl'aitstitch at.- certain diametrically opposed. zones. and .a. plain. .orjersey. knit .at the. remainder of. the. tube, and thereby produce. acircularlyknittediabric tube such.asthat.showninbroken. lines inFig. L
It ispreferred that the zones l2 each consist of. six plaits. or folds formed as. set. forthabove, althoughagreater .or. lesser number of .plaits may be. used dependingupon the. yieldability. that is desired'in. the. completed. undershirt, and .in .cut-' ting thebody portion. Moi. theundershirt, the
tube 1.0. is initially; flattenedwith the; zones, l2.
thereofin overlying relation and extending along. the medial line of the flattened tube. The lower edge iii of body portion [4 is formedby. cutting the tube I0 transversely along. astraight line, and
the neckopening is formed. by cutting thetube transversely alongthe line I8 having-an arcuate contour shaped'tdprovide the front of the neck opening and along the line 20 havingan arcuate contour shaped to provide theeback of. the neck.
opening. The lines [8 and 20, which meet at 22, form an upwardly curved portion or upper edge of the body portion when the latter is viewed in the. position of.- Fig. 1. An. armhole 26, in the shape of an elongated elliptical opening having its major axis inclined relative to the longitudinal axis of the tube It, is formed in each layer or wall of the knitted fabric tube, within the plaited zones I-Zthereof; adjacent to but spaced from the upper edge a distance whereby the upper portions of; the armholes and the lines 18 and 29 so define a section 24 and adjacent portions which eventually in-the finished garment will provide seamless shoulder sections 28.
In commercial practice, the foregoing operationsin accordance. with theinvention are preferably performed simultaneously by stamping the. body. portion from the tube by means of blanking; dies which sever the body. portion at the lower.
edge I6 and the lines l8 and 20, and cut out the superimposed armholes 26. It will be understood, however, that the same operations may be performed by manually severing the tube as indicated, for example by shears or scissors.
Asseen in.Fig..1', the shoulder sections 28 include zones 30' of double-ribbed or plait-knit fabric. extendingfrom the neck opening to the armholes, and zones 32, of similar plait-knit fabric,. extend downwardly from the arm holes 2.5 to the. lower edge "5 of the body portion. When body portion 14 is folded substantially into. the plane. indicated by line 2--2 on Fig. 1, itsappearance. will bethat. indicated. in Fig. 2,. and
zones. 31 will..be. positioned at theopposite side. edges of the body portion while zones 3%) willform.
the. crests of. the shoulder sections. In order to reduce the downward slope of the crests of the shoulder sections, and also to decrease the distance around the neck opening, the. pleats in zones 3| are sewn one over the other at their ends adjacent to the neck opening, so that the side edges of zones 38 diverge towards the arm opening, as shown in Fig. 2.
If it is desired to provide a sleeveless undershirt, thebody portion-l4, as viewed in Fig. 2, may be finished by securing suitable binding tape around. the edge ofthe neck opening and also around'the-edges of arm openings. A sleeveless undershirtv thus formed has the advantage of readily conforming to the shoulder and torso contours of the wearer, by reason of the plaited zones 30. and 32 disposed at the sides'of the torso and tops of the shoulders, respectively, thereby affording greater comfort and freedom of movement of the wearer; and as previously mentioned a single undershirt thus formed will conform to and properly'fitthe torsos of different size wearers.
Whenit is. desired to provide an undershirt of the type usually referred to as a T-shirt having short sleeves, a. tube of knitted fabric 34, shown in Fig. 6 is provided in the manner previously recited .in connection with producing tube [0, which. eventually form the sleeves in the finished garment. The tube 34 includes diametrically opposed, longitudinal zones 3% and 38 of double-ribbedor plait-knitted fabric and inter mediate portions of conventional plain or jersey knit. The tube 34 is formed of such length that pairs of sleeves may be cut therefrom without waste. As seen in Fig. 6, the tube 3 is flattened, with the zones 36 and 38 disposed at the opposite side edges thereof, preparatory to cutting the sleeves therefrom. The lower edges of the sleeves are formed by cutting the tube transversely along substantially straight lines 40, which extend at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the tube, and the upper edges of the sleeves, that is, the edges to be joined to the arm holes, are formed by cutting the tube transversely along substantially straight lines 42 which are inclined relative to the tube axis. It can be seen that a length of the tube, between adjacent lines 40, is sufficient to provide a pair of sleeves 44 and 46, and therefore, waste may be eliminated by forming the length of the tube in multiples of the desired length.
Each of the pair of sleeves 44 and 46, formed as indicated above, will include a relatively long outer longitudinal zone 48 (Fig. 3) of double-- ribbed or plaited knit fabric and a relatively short inner zone 50 of similar knit fabric by reason of the inclination of lines 42, and intermediate front and rear sections of conventional jersey knit. The sleeves 44 and 46 are assembled to the body portion l4, at armholes 23 of the latter, with'the outer zone 43 of each aligned with the adjacent zone 30 and the inner zone 56 of each aligned with the adjacent zone 32, as illustrated in Fig. 3. The meeting ends of each inner zone 50 of the sleeve and zone 32 of the body portion have the plaits thereof sewn over the other to increase the strength of the seam between the sleeve and body portion at the under-arm section thereof. The sleeves 44 and 46 are sewn in the arm holes 26 along the line 52 (Figs. 1 and 3) to provide a seam allowance between the edge of the arm hole opening in the body portion and the stitching.
While the sleeves have been illustrated and described as each having outer and inner zones of double-ribbed or plaited knit fabric, it is to be understood that, if desired, the sleeves may each have one such zone, preferably the outer zone 43. In such event the tube 34a shown in Fig. 7 and having the zone 38a only is employed, and the tube is severed transversely as at lines 40a into suitable lengths which may be subsequently severed at an angle such as at lines 42a, so that the resulting sleeve forming sections 44a and 46a of the tube each have an area 48a of relatively yieldable fabric extending along the long fold edge thereof.
An abbreviated collar or collarette 54 is sewn into the neck opening (Fig. 3) and is preferably formed of a circularly-knitted, one-piece, seamless tube of the desired size. Similar knitted edging (not shown) may be applied to the ends of sleeves 44 and 46, or the sleeves may be merely self -hemmed as illustrated.
Referring now to Figs. 4 and 5, an undershirt is there shown formed according to a modified embodiment of this invention. In Fig. 4 a tube 56, similar in all respects to the tube [0 previously described, is shown in broken lines and flattened so that the double-rib or plaited longitudinal sections 58 of the tube are superimposed on each other. The body portion 60, of the modified undershirt, is formed from the tube 56 by cutting the latter transversely along line 62, constituting the lower edge of body portion 60, and transversely along line 64 at the top. The back of the neck opening is provided by cutting along the arcuate line 65 extending from the line 64 to one side edge or fold of the folded tube, and the front of the neck opening is provided by cutting the folded tube along the arcuate line 68 extending from the line 64 to the opposite side edge of the tube. An elliptical opening 16 is cut in each of the layers of fabric of the flattened tube to form arm holes. The openings are disposed centrally within the plaited sections or zones 58 and open at their top ends at the straight portion of I tube 56 in the manner heretofore described, the
body portion is flattened with the zones 58 disposed at the opposite sides thereof and edge sections 14 and 16 'in confronting relation. Edge sections i4 and 16 are then joined together by shoulder seam 18 (Fig. 5). By reason of the elliptical configuration of the arm hole openings T0, the plaited zones 58 of the tube will form a double-rib or plait-knit section 86 at each side of the body portion extending from the arm hole downwardly to the lower edge 62, and approximately triangular sections 82 and 84 of similar plait knit at the top of the shoulder on opposite sides of shoulder seam 16. Sections 82 and 84 permit yielding of the top portion of the shoulder portion in the direction of the shoulder seam 18, While sections permit lateral yielding of the portion covering the wearers torso.
The undershirt is completed by setting sleeves 44' and 46', which are similar to sleeves 44 and 46 of Figs. 3 and 6, into the arm hole openings 10 and stitching such sleeves at their inner ends to the body portion along dotted lines 86 (Fig. 4) to provide suitable seam allowance. The sleeves inserted in the arm openings as above include relatively long outer longitudinal zones 48' of doubleribbed or plaited knit fabric and relatively short inner zones 56 of similar knit fabric. Thereafter, a continuous, circular-knitted, one-piece, seamless collar or neck band 88 is stitched in the neck-opening defined by lines 68 in the front and 66 in the back.
From the foregoing description, it will be seen that the present invention provides improved undershirts having body portions and sleeves each formed preferably by circular knitting, and having sections at the sides of the torso, at the shoulders and at spaced portions of the sleeves that are more yieldable than the remaining portions to thereby afford maximum comfort and freedom of movement to the wearer, without sacrificing the ability to retain its original shape, even after repeated launderings, and which can be manufactured in a simple and economical manner.
While I have illustrated and described preferred embodiments of my invention, it is to be understood that I do not wish to be limited to those precise embodiments, as obviously various modifications and changes may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.
4 What I claim is:
1. A garment formed of flexible material comprising a body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral with said front and back sections between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides of said body from said arm openings to the bottom edge of said body and along said shoulder portions from said arm openings to said neck opening, said zones extending along ass-5,200
7 said shoulder portionsbeing gatheredratsaidlneck opening.
2. A garment formed of a fabric comprising a bodyhaving front and back sections, neck and arm openingsand shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions, and a pair of sleeves each formed With longitudinal zones more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said sleeve at opposite sides thereof; said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides andv shoulder portions of the body, respectively.
3. A, garment formed of a fabric comprising a body having'front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions, and a pair of circularly knitted one-piece sleeves each formed with at least one longitudinal sleeve zone of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the said sleeve, said sleeves being secured to said arm openings with the said sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the shoulder portions of the body.
4. A garment formed of a knitted fabric com prising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral. with said front and back sections between said neck and arm. openings, said body being formed-with longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending-along the opposite sides of said body from the bottom edge thereof to said arm openings and along said shoulder portions from said arm openings to said neck opening, and a pair of circularly knitted onepiece sleeves each formed with longitudinalzones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder thereof at opposite sides of said sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones disposed in end to end relation tothe adjacent ones of said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of the body, respectively.
5. A garment formed of a knittedfabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings. and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body extending along the opposite sides of the body between the bottom edge thereof and said arm openings and at said shoulder portions, a pair of circularly knitted.
one-piece sleeves each formed with longitudinal. zones at opposite sides thereof of a knit more, yieldable laterally than the remainder of they sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of the body, respectively, and means restricting the lateral yielding of the side body zones and contiguous ones of said sleeve zones at their meeting ends.
6. A garment formed of a knitted fabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions integral with said front and baoksections between said neck opening and 8, said arm openings, saidbody being formed with longitudinal zones at the opposite sides extending from thebottom edgeithereof to. said arm openings and at said shoulder portions extending from said arm openings to said neck opening, said zones being of aknit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body, a pair of 'cir=- cularly knitted one-piece sleeves each formed with longitudinal zones at the opposite sidesof'a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with said opposed'sleeve zones disposed in end to end relation to the adjacent one of said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of the body, respectively, means restricting the lateral yielding of the zones at the sides of the body and the contiguous ones of said sleeve zones at their meeting ends, and means restricting the lateral yielding of said zones along the shoulder portions of the body at the ends thereof adjacent said neck opening.
7. A garment formed of a knitted fabric comprising a circularly knitted one-piece body having front and back sections, neck and arm openings and shoulder portions between said neck and arm openings, said body being formed with zones at the opposite sides thereof and at said shoulder portions of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of said body, a pair of circularly knitted one-piece sleeves each formed with longitudinal zones at the opposite sides of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the sleeve, said sleeves being secured in said arm openings with the opposed sleeve zones contiguous to said zones at the sides and shoulder portions of said body, respectively, and a circularly knitted one-piece neck band secured in said neck opening.
8. The method of forming a one-piece body for. a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed. longitudinal zones of a knitmore yieldable laterally than the remainder of the. tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment body and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out por-- tions of said superimposed zones to form registering open areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, and also severing both layers of the flattened tube transversely above' said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment body and shoulder portions therebetween whereby the shoulder portions and the sides. of the body are more yieldable laterally than the remainder thereof.
9. The method of forming a one-piece body-for a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment body and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering open areas, therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, and also severing both layers of the flattened tube. on a contoured line arched above said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment body and shoulder portions therebetween whereby the shoulder. por tions and the sides of the body are more yieldable, laterally than the remainder thereof.
10. The method of forming a one-piece body for a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment body and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering open areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, and also severing both layers of the flattened tube on contoured lines spaced from said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment body and shoulder portions therebetween whereby sections of the shoulder portions and the sides of the body are more yieldable in one direction than the remainder thereof.
11. The method of making a garment of the class described comprising forming a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, severing both layers of the flattened tube on a line above said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment and shoulder portions therebetween, forming a tube of fabric with a longitudinal zone of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, severing the latter tube into a pair of sleeves, and securing said sleeves in the cutout open areas with said longitudinal zone of each of the sleeves contiguous to the zone at each side of said shoulder portions.
12. The method of forming a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening'the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, severing both layers of the flattened tube on a contoured line arched above said open areas to form the front and back neck portions of the garment and shoulder portions therebetween, circularly knitting a second tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, severing the latter tube into a pair of sleeves, and securing said sleeves in the cutout open areas 10 with said opposed zones of the sleeves contiguous to the zones at the sides of the first tube and at said shoulder portions, respectively.
13. The method of forming a garment of the class described comprising circularly knitting a first tube of fabric with diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, flattening the tube along lines midway of the portions thereof which are to constitute the front and back of the garment and with the longitudinal zones superimposed, cutting out portions of said superimposed zones to form registering open areas therein to constitute the armholes of the garment, severing both layers of the flattened tube on a contoured line arched above said open areas to form the front and back portions of the neck opening of the garment and shoulder portions therebetween having sections of said zones extending from said neck opening to said armholes, restricting the lateral yielding of said sections of said zories at the ends thereof adjacent said neck opening, circularly knitting a second tube of fabric having diametrically opposed longitudinal zones of a knit more yieldable laterally than the remainder of the tube, severing said second tube into pairs of sleeves, securing said sleeves in said armholes with the opposed zones of said sleeves in end to end relation with the sections of zones at said shoulder portions and extending downwardly from said armholes, and restricting the lateral yielding of the sections of the zones extending downwardly from the armholes and of the contiguous zones of the sleeves at their meeting ends.
WILLIAM W. ARTZT.
REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:
UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 356,142 7 Lewis et a1 Jan. 18, 1887 1,102,299 Scriven July '7, 1914 1,205,446 Golden Nov. 21, 1916 1,897,619 Powell Feb. 14, 1933 2,000,073 Goas May 7, 1935 2,026,963 Burns Jan. '7, 1936 2,352,128 Shikles June 20, 1944 2,414,048 Lesavoy Jan. 7, 1947 2,493,675 Kuehnel Jan. 3, 1950 2,519,534 Artzt Aug. 22, 1950 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 18,051 Australia Jan. 23, 1930 402,128 France Aug. 21, 1909 463,047 Great Britain Mar. 17, 1937
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US2707284A (en) * 1952-02-11 1955-05-03 William W Artzt Method of making garments
US2858541A (en) * 1956-07-17 1958-11-04 Onelta Knitting Mills Method of making shirts
US3078699A (en) * 1959-11-30 1963-02-26 Huntley Knitting Mills Inc Method of making knit garment
US3195147A (en) * 1960-12-30 1965-07-20 Yamamura Kohei Method of tailoring shirts from tubular knitted fabrics
US3298033A (en) * 1965-07-19 1967-01-17 Yamamura Kohei Process for making a shirt from a tubular fabric blank
US3979928A (en) * 1975-02-26 1976-09-14 Atwater Roy V Hosiery-type knitting machines adapted for the production of large loose stitches from heavy-denier yarn
USD387188S (en) * 1996-04-18 1997-12-09 Michael Varao Reflective fashionable night apparel
USD734916S1 (en) 2012-12-18 2015-07-28 Adidas Ag Jersey
USD737543S1 (en) * 2012-12-18 2015-09-01 Adidas Ag Pattern within a portion of a front surface of a jersey
WO2015153012A1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2015-10-08 Nike Innovate C.V. Method of forming a unitary knit article using flat-knit construction
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US2666314A (en) * 1952-12-10 1954-01-19 Lois S Capper Knitted garment construction
US2858541A (en) * 1956-07-17 1958-11-04 Onelta Knitting Mills Method of making shirts
US3078699A (en) * 1959-11-30 1963-02-26 Huntley Knitting Mills Inc Method of making knit garment
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WO2015153012A1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2015-10-08 Nike Innovate C.V. Method of forming a unitary knit article using flat-knit construction
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EP3591105A1 (en) * 2014-04-03 2020-01-08 NIKE Innovate C.V. A knitted component run comprising a unitary knit article formed using flat-knit construction
USD744205S1 (en) * 2015-02-16 2015-12-01 Nike, Inc. Garment
USD770142S1 (en) * 2015-05-27 2016-11-01 Nike, Inc. Shirt
US20160366961A1 (en) * 2015-06-22 2016-12-22 Russell Carie Carry and Conceal Shirt
USD821062S1 (en) * 2016-01-14 2018-06-26 Nike, Inc. Jacket
US10550501B2 (en) 2016-05-31 2020-02-04 Nike, Inc. Knit sleeve convergence of pattern
US10669657B2 (en) 2016-05-31 2020-06-02 Nike, Inc. Knit sleeve ribbing structure
US10829875B2 (en) 2016-05-31 2020-11-10 Nike, Inc. Knit sleeve pattern
USD889770S1 (en) * 2017-01-17 2020-07-14 Refried Tees, Inc. T-shirt
USD849368S1 (en) * 2017-05-17 2019-05-28 Andria Ellis Breastfeeding shirt
US10478327B2 (en) * 2018-02-22 2019-11-19 Ifgcure Holdings, Llc Postural recovery garment device system
US20190254858A1 (en) * 2018-02-22 2019-08-22 Ifgcure Holdings, Llc Postural recovery garment device system
US20190350737A1 (en) * 2018-02-22 2019-11-21 Ifgcure Holdings, Llc Postural recovery garment device systems and methods for manufacture of same
US11020262B2 (en) 2018-02-22 2021-06-01 Ifgcure Holdings, Llc Posture, performance, recovery garment device system

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